Where The Wild Things Go

Exploring the Island of South Georgia in the Southern Ocean

2012-02-24T07:13:00.000-08:00

South Georgia:

Onboard an oceanographic cruise to Antarctic during 2009/2010 we were fortunate to spend a day on the island of South Georgia:

…The ocean breathes salty.

And after two months at sea our senses were so in tune with the oceans odors and hypersensitive to new scents that we smelt the earthiness of land before we even caught sight of it.

And in the vastness there it was…

A ragged mountain range rose out from the distant horizon, smudged by the light morning mist giving off an ethereal appearance. The island of South Georgia captured in the early light was the most beautiful sight imaginable, shining like a precious jewel under the sunrays. The island is made up of dramatic, morphed mountains intertwined with rivers of ice that cut off were the foothill of the island meets the ocean, breaking off and depositing large icebergs into the sea.

Positioned between South America and Antarctica, in the early polar exploration days South Georgia was known to be the first gateway to the Antarctic.

We sailed into a sheltered bay and had our first glimpse of the infamous burnt orange relict, the Stromness whaling station that was once the center of Southern Ocean whaling between 1904-1966. It was in this bay that thousands of whales were slaughtered annually and over 498,870 seals (mainly Elephant) were slaughtered over the years. What is now a calm beautiful turquoise bay was once a basin filled with blood.

Arriving in South Georgia 44 years later we encountered a very different picture.

The old whaling station was overrun by wildlife including penguins, birds and seals that have made a home from its rusting remains. Hundreds of seals and penguins occupied the shoreline, almost as if to reclaim the land stolen from them and to make up for their numbers lost.

And while we explored the island: dodging between seals and penguins, hiking over a peak and into retreating glacial valley, huge albatross flying overhead... the voice of David Attenborough echoed in my mind as I walked through my own personal planet earth documentary.

It is here on South Georgia where the famous polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton was laid to rest. A visit to pay respects to the late Shackleton was a must. But surrounding the white picket fence of the graveyard was what looked like an army of elephant and fur seals. We literally had to fight our way through them. By the time we reached the picket fence I felt as if I had passed through some sort of seal induced right of passage. And come to think of it perhaps that is exactly how Sir Ernest Shackleton, a man who pushed the boundaries and endured so much, would have like it to be. Nothing worth doing is easy.

I found the elephant seal to be a foul creature. It seemed capable of gassing out from every inch of its being. Resembling a hybrid between Jaba the Hut from Starwars and the Borgons from the Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy. But they were more docile than the cute looking fur seal that would give you a nasty nip if you got close enough.

After a long day filled with overwhelming scenery and experiences, the ships horn echoing through the bay brought us back to reality and we reluctantly made our way back… leaving behind this special place and continuing on back to Antarctica for the last leg of our voyage.

A glimpse of the island of South Georgia with large glaciers cutting off into the ocean.

Approaching South Georgia in the early hours of the morning.

The Stromness whaling station.

The MV Agulhas in the background and a unfazed King Penguin waddles past.

Elephant Seals sunbathing.

Elephant Seal soaking it up.

Sandy gets in for a close up shot.

The famous polar explorer Ernest Henry Shackleton was laid to rest here.

King Penguins.

Subantarctic fur seal eyes me out.

Green rolling hills and icy peaks of South Georgia

After winter months, summer brings thawing.

A view over looking the Island on our short hike over the pass.

The pure happiness state that South Georgia brings you too.

Fractured slate rock and the dramatic peaks.

A glaciar creeps out from between the mountains.

Ecuador: Otavalo and the surrounds

2011-12-17T20:04:00.001-08:00

ROSA’s straight and determined face slowly starts to crack into a smile as the bartering comes to an end after twenty gruelling minutes. She knows she has me and I know it too. She’s managed to suck me dry of every potential cent, her scorpion tail flashing out at every price I offer, making every hard-assed shop owner in the Moroccan souks look as soft as lard.

‘Ooh, es muy carro!’

‘Nosotros somos estudientes’

‘Soy de Sud Afrika’

‘No tengo US dollar. El numbro de mi dinero es Rand. Un Dollar es oche Rand!!!’

‘Es un regalo para Sarita’

These were the typical lines I threw at Rosa, but whether they had any effect on her I will never know; her face was expressionless and made of stone, unwavering stone.

It’s raining. But It’s always raining in Otavalo. And we are standing in the middle of what is known as the largest indigenous market in Latin America. In the beginning of the week we were unimpressed by the size of it, thinking Muizenberg flea market at home was larger. But come Saturday, the adjacent streets surrounding the market were unrecognisable, jam packed with colourful shops.

Overnight the entire town seemed transformed into a bustling, vibrant market.

The towns surrounding Otavalo are each known for a particular trade whether it be leather merchandise from Cotacachi and musical instruments and weaving from Peguche, it can all be found in Otavalo on a Saturday.

The locals are typically dressed in the traditional Ecuadorian outfits. For the men this entails, white pants, long platted hair, a fedora and a blue poncho. For women, a white blouse with flower embroidery, long blue skirts with colourful weaved belts, a shawl and gold and red beads for jewellery.

Like the market, the landscape surrounding Otavalo has much to offer with large green rolling hills, lakes and waterfalls as well as a massive volcanic crater lake with blue water as clear as glass and three islands inside.

Otavalo is undeniably a unique place and a great spot to end off an incredible trip.

A smiling shop owner. HDR

HDR of two children outside an ice cream shop in the neighboring town Peguche.

An old ladies face tells many a story. HDR.

HDR of an Ecuadorian Indian and his sleeping pup.

One of the tough bartering ladies in the traditional outfit, with her shop and the typical alpaca and llama merchandise. HDR.

Volcanic crater lake with three islands

All smiles and tears. A crying Sarita and a smiling Rosa after the lengthy negotiations. Rosa has her winning smile on.

Beautiful designed shakers/rattles for music.

Leanne takes a drink from a cows leg at the Otavalo market.

Two local ladies in the middle of a sale for some market chicken.

Some colourful vegetables from the food market.

A little old lady at the Saturday market wearing the traditional dress.

The Peguche waterfall :)

Ecuador - Mindo and the Cloud Forest

2011-12-13T14:31:00.001-08:00

It’s like clockwork.

Every morning we wake up to the sun’s rays shinning bright into our room, clear skies and an orchestra of birds singing in the trees outside. By 12:00 o’clock every day the cloud cover spreads out into the valley, its tendrils gently wrapping around the forest, always arriving on time, without fail. Reminding us that we are in what’s known as the Cloud Forest.

Roughly two hours from the equator, Mindo is surrounded by dense forest teeming with life. Colourful but timid birds dart between trees in flashes of reds, blacks, yellows and greens. Butterflies tease us by flashing their brightly coloured wings. Strange alien-like flowers with striking colours grow out from tree trunks. Yellow orchids hang down from trees and wild berries are bursts of purples and reds amongst the dense green.

Mindo lies at an altitude of 1300m, high enough for forests, but not high enough to be rid of mosquitos and other blood suckers. We discovered this the hard way during a 4 hour hike through the forest with over grown trails (and tornado trashed) wearing only shorts, t-shirts and no insect repellent. Forest fledglings ;)

The one-horse town of Mindo has few tourists, it’s mainly elderly couples dressed head to toe in khaki gear (clearly experienced) and binoculars in search of some of the Parrots, Toucans and the famous dancing ‘Cock-of-the-Rock’.

Highlights: Chocolate tour, Butterfly farm, bird watching and hiking!

Coco beans from the delicious El Quetzal chocolate farm where the magic happens:)

After a bit of magic and some sweet lovin' - a coco powder cylinder.

Fine tuning the nibs out for the smooth deliciousness.

Chili flakes, ginger honey, coco honey and freshly made chocolate...

es muy rico!

And to finish, the famous El Quetzal brownie.

Over grown hiking trails in the forest around Mindo.

Yellow orchids, epiphytes (air plants) grow on the trees.

Leanne caught a sneaky butterfly catching a ride.

The beautiful mariposa's

The Owl Butterfly

lift off, more butterflies:)

Scrub Blackbird

A male white-necked jacobin, humming bird.

Humming bird

A male green-crowned woodnymphs

A female white-necked jacobin

Greeness!

Red flowers are splashes of colour amongst the green

Heliconius erato sp.

The Ornate Flycatcher

Forest Squirrel

Pink Quill Flower

Transparent Butterfly

A forest frog spotted on our hike, unknown id.

Leanne being swallowed up by the forest.

Admiring the cloud forest from the lookout hut.

Ecuador - Canoa in HDR

2011-12-03T10:05:00.000-08:00

STANDING on the sidewalk I watch wide eyed as a hundred rowdy, unshaven, Ecuadorian cowboys ride their wild horses down the main road of Canoa leaving behind a cloud of golden dust in their wake. I feel as if I’ve stepped back in time, half expecting the likes of Butch Cassidy to gallop down the street firing his pistol into the sky…

It took thirty six hours of bus time, four hours of standing in queues at the Ecuadorian/Peruvian border and five more bus rides, to reach our destination: Canoa.

Canoa, a rustic beach town, is situated roughly halfway up the Ecuadorian coastline. The beach front is dotted with palm trees and straw hut bars. Latino music and Piña Coladas are in no short supply. The beach is cornered off on one side with large steep cliffs and on the other side the beach seems endless, stretching off into the horizon.

As luck would have it, we had arrived in time for Canoa’s 405^th birthday, a three day fiesta with cowboys, carnivals and parades. Our hostel hosted the drunken cowboys for the day so it was a quick dash to the room to avoid a pinched bottomJ

We have been here for over a week and our daily routine has involved a morning walk down the long stretch of beach in search of old pottery artefacts eroded from the cliffs by rivers and deposited back on to the beaches. We laze in weathered hammocks strung from the palm trees, we eat delicious Encocado de Camaron (prawns in coconut sauce), drink Piña Coladas and end off our days with a bonfire and music on the beach.

La vida es perfecto.

Our beloved Coco Loco beach hostel, thank you Mun!

The Coco Loco beach bar on Canoa beach.

Two cowboys loving the taste of whiskey at 10am

The wild, wild west in Ecuador.

Leanne and I were beside ourselves, horses and cowboys. What more can a girl ask for.

Cowboys, cowboys and more cowboys - phewy!

The parade celebrating the 405th birthday of Canoa marches right past our hostel

Dancing parade girls, short skirts and feather dusters - not doing much to further the feminist agenda here in Canoa.

Wise ol' cowboy.

Drummer boys of the Parade.

Cowboy, chilling out with the local paper

Yoga head stands and the setting sun - I love you Canoa

Huaraz and turquoise lakes

2011-11-30T16:33:00.000-08:00

Our driver takes us along the part-tar-part-gravel road through a city of half built buildings, past the Plaza de Armas and the newly constructed Cathedral still in its scaffolding exoskeleton, to our half-painted hostel in the town of Huaraz.

In 1970, an earthquake destroyed up to 90 percent of the buildings in Huaraz, killing up to 30, 000 inhabitants. The town is making a slow recovery, rebuilding, rebuilding, rebuilding.

The town is positioned in a valley between two large mountain ranges, the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra, with some of the highest peaks in Peru. The mountains of the Cordillera Blanca are capped with large impressive glaciers. Several glacial lakes are found between the towering peaks which radiate turquoise blue.

Not only have natural disasters such as earthquakes, landslides and floods affected Huaraz in past years, but the effects of climate change appear to be prominent here, with glaciers retreating at an average of 20m per year.

Hiking expeditions, ice picking, climbing and other crazy activities can be arranged from Huaraz. After a few days in Huaraz and a bit of hiking we leave Peru and head to Ecuador for some Pina Colada's and beach time.

A curious cow on our hike in the Cordillera Blanca between the glacial capped mountains.

Who needs a guide?? Not us!

The beautiful turquoise glacial lake, Largo 69.

'Chilling' out.

Largo Llanganuco

Llama of Largo Llanganuco

Relaxing on largo Llanganuco

Inca Trail and Machu Picchu!

2011-11-23T11:06:00.001-08:00

A summary of photos

taken during the Inca Trail.

Hiking dorks raring to go!

The crew at the beginning of the Inca Trail.

The real heroes.

Up until recent years, there were no restrictions for the amount a porter would have to carry along the trail, carrying as much as 50kg for the 4 days. Now a days regulations insure that porters are cared for, with a limit of 25kg for each porter. Respect.

Our first Inca archaeological site, Llactapata.

A Cactus flower.

The SAS team, porters, chefs, guides and gringos. Taken after a bit of camaraderie to get us pumped for the infamous Dead Womens Pass.

A sneaky Deer watches our suffering, halfway up Dead Womens Pass.

It is no wonder why the locals worship the mountains. Breath taking, over powering, the humbling Andean mountains surround us as we hike.

I survived Dead Womens Pass!

So did the rest of our group.... no sacrifices to the mountain god just yet.

The Runkuracay ruins.

A purple beauty, name unknown

More Inca Trail prettiness

Sayacmarca hidden in the Cloud Forest and covered in a cloth of moss and plants. It is no surprise that archaeological sites are still being discovered.

View from Sayacmarca

Early morning dew drop sprinklings.

A shy little bird.

Phuyupatamarca.

Trail passing Phuyupatamarca.

Unknown flower

Bomarea sanguinea

Unknown flower

A green Orchid, name unknown.

More Orchids :)

A leafy orchid. Amazing!

More and more orchids!

Winay Wayna

Winay Wayna Orchid, named after the archaeological site. It means eternal youth.

Wakanqui Orchid

Aaaah at last... 49km of hiking through beautiful terrain, 100 years after its discovery in 1911. Machu Picchu you beauty.

Happpppinesss

Arequipa and the Colca Canyon

2011-11-10T13:22:00.000-08:00

SITTING in a small classroom in the depths of the city of Arequipa in Peru, I stare blankly at my Spanish teacher who looks back at me nodding enthusiastically. Irregular verbs. Awesome.

For the past week, we have been in Arequipa ‘the White City’, recovering from the wild beast Bolivia and taking 4hr daily Spanish lessons in hopes to master the language. Instead, I find myself speaking some strange hybrid language I like to call ‘Spanglishaans’. The Afrikaans I thought I never had creeps out from the depths of the vocab section in my brain springing out in moments of need, resulting in frowning shop assistants and an amused Leanne.

Walking back from a night out of celebrating Leanne’s birthday in style with Pisco Sours and Mojitos, we are approached by a tall dark-haired young stranger. Adwaldo. Who is apparently a recently graduated law student, and ‘would be happy to give us a more intensive Spanish lesson if we'd like’. Haha, no thanks Aldwado.

We have found the local men to be quite ‘cheeky’, often creeping up behind us and pinching bottoms. Leanne managed to get a kick in on one occasionJ

Like other cities in South America, Arequipa is centred around an impressive cathedral. Where it differs, are the large ice-capped volcanoes that form a dramatic back drop behind the City.

After a week of Spanish lessons and pinched bottoms we decide its time to head to Colca Canyon.

The white Cathedral of Arequipa.

The Cathedral from behind the gate.

Arequipa has some run down colonial styled buildings loaded with character.

HDR of old car, loved the basket.

The Colca Canyon

We came. We saw. We conquered.

There truly is no better set of words to describe how we felt after ascending the 4000m climb, covering a height of 1200m from the very bowels of the Colca Canyon. The Colca Canyon is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and is claimed to be the ‘deepest canyon in the world’.

As you can imagine, climbing from the bottom was quite a feat for us especially in 2hours and 15mins.

The previous day we made our descent into the canyon after watching giant Andean Condors glide effortlessly along its walls. From the top, we eye out our final destination - located at the very bottom of the Canyon, a taunting oasis almost seems to laughs at us. Green and lush with trees forming dark pockets of shade, crystal blue pools of salvation and cold beer. I find my hand involuntary stretches out in vain.

After seven hours of hiking down into the Canyon, along the bottom and through two villages, I’m the one laughing now as we approach the oasis.

As the sunsets over the oasis, it highlights tiny fruit flies that hover silently above the flowers, giving them a fairy-like appearance. The walls of the canyon change to shades of orange reflecting the setting sun and strongly contrasting the green lush oasis where I watch from my hammock.

On the top of the Canyon wall, Andean Condor watching/fishing... I hear they find South Africans tasty.

Andean Condor approaches.

A female Andean Condor.

The beginning of the trail (photo by Leanne)

View from the top

HDR of the laughing Oasis.

The Oasis and its blue pools.

Condor Fodder.

The Conquerors!

View from the top of our climb.

Best friends forever

Eagle of the Colca Canyon

Another view point

Lake Titicaca and Isla del Sol

2011-11-04T19:45:00.000-07:00

IN the distance, a steep island emits bright golden rays of sunshine. Dust picked up by the light breeze is illuminated golden by the sun giving the entire island a glowing halo-like appearance. And as our boat approaches, I find myself thinking of strong dark haired Greek Gods, leather sandals, jugs of wine… and whether or not my sunblock (+50spf) is going to do the job, or if I should mummify myself in a sarong.

There is no doubt about it, Isla Del Sol literally radiates mythical.

Isla Del Sol, ‘The island of the Sun’ is found in Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in world. The island is of great importance as it is believed to be the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. It is also believed that founding fathers of the Incas where brought into being here.

Leanne and I decided to go to the south of the Island to avoid the tourists in the north. As a result, we were spoilt with empty trails along the coastline and ancient Inca ruins all to ourselves. Looking out from the Island we gaze at the ocean sized lake and a backdrop of ice capped mountains which seem to float above the clouds.

On the Island, with limited electricity, the people work in synchronicity with the periodic rising and sinking of the sun.

We stay the night and wake up just in time to see why it is the Incas believed the sun was birthed here. The sun explodes from behind the floating icy mountains as it rises. The gold orb lights up the island gold once again and the people rise to start another day.

HDR of the Cathedral of Copacabana. Copacabana is the gateway town to Isla Del Sol.

View from Isla Del Sol coastal walk.

HDR of view.

Floating ice capped mountains, viewed from Isla Del Sol.

Leanne the island donkey whisperer.

And... the sheep whisperer.

HDR of ancient Inca ruins.

HDR fiend, The Inca ruins.

More HDR'ing of ruins.

The Reed Islands, Puno in Peru. A massive man-made floating Island with villages constructed solely from reed on Lake Titicaca.

The locals from the Reed Island (HDR).

Bolivia: Rurrenabaque and the Pampas

2011-10-26T14:20:00.001-07:00

Staring out from the cracked and dusty window of the rundown Uyuni Airport, we look with apprehension at our valiant steed - an old 19 seater aeroplane - whose task is to carry us safely from the vast Altiplano at an altitude of 4600m across the Andes to Rurrenabaque in the Amazon basin at 130m.

The passengers sit cramped inside, brown bag ready.

Flying into the Amazon basin, I watch as the shadow of our small plane is amplified and distorted by the large steep green hills that crawl with life beneath us. We land in Rurrenabaque on a runway made up of part tar and part high grass with an airport the size of a modest house.

Rurrenabaque is the gateway town to the Bolivian Amazon and tours into the Amazon are arranged from here. We decide on three days in the Yacuma River Pampas, a vast wetland, because of the overwhelming masses of wildlife found there.

After introducing ourselves to our guide Kike, his response to my name was ‘Aaah…. Sarah… Sarah O’Connel! From Terminator! ‘, I was like ‘…ah…sure, whatever you prefer’. He remembered my name from then on, calling me with an amused smile on his face.

As far as Pampas guides are concerned, Kike a short, tubby, round faced and jovial man seems to be an exception. We realise this when arriving at camp where we come face to face with the Bruce Lee and the Rambo of the Amazon. Well at least that is what we reckon they fancy themselves as. Shirtless, grossly over toned and doing pull ups on the wooden door frames; they watch us like we’re prey as we enter the camp.

Canoeing down the passive Yucuma River, Kike singing happily in Spanish, we see a multitude of Amazon life. From Spectacled Caiman, Capybaras, and Turtles to Herons, Eagles and Kingfishers.

During the heat of the day the wild life lazes around, motionless.

Stopping on the riverbank we cautiously disembark our ‘vessel’, eyeing suspicious log shaped objects near us. Kike announces that it is time to go on a search for Anaconda. After a 30min walk we arrive in Anaconda territory. We are each given a stick as our snake catching tool but besides for poking myself in the eye, I can’t for the life of me imagine what I would do with it if faced with a 6 meter Anaconda. Lined up in a row, we walk slowly into waist high grasslands, mud squelching beneath our gumboots and sticks apprehensively prodding the ground in front of us. After a few sweltering hot hours, a small Anaconda (2.5 meters) was found by one of the guides… probably Rambo or Bruce Lee I’d imagine.

After sunset, as the sky darkens, everything comes alive.

The most memorable time in the Pampas was drifting in the canoe down the Yacuma River in the black of night. It took some time for my ears and eyes to adjust to the silence and darkness, in order to hear the workings of the forest and wetlands around me. Stars overhead form a safe intricate net over us, weighing on them a straining, heavy wall of darkness. The trees are black silhouettes against the midnight blue horizon. Sparks of white light illuminate brightly in the silhouettes for just long enough to catch your eye and steal your attention from the sky.

The fireflies twinkle as beautifully and as bright as the stars.

Our home in the Pampas del Yacuma

Turtle enjoying the view.

The White-Necked Heron (I think)

The White Heron

Not sure?

A sneaky Spectacled Caiman.

Piranha fishing! Our catch of the day. Dinner time.

The next morning. Swimming with the Piranha, Pink Dolphins and Caiman.

A smiling Turtle watches us.

Capybara the largest rodent in the world.

A Howler Monkey

Amazon Kingfisher

A Brown Eagle (I might have made that one up)

A Squirrel monkey

Smokey sunset view from Rurrenabaque walk.

Anaconda hunters (No jokes!)

An evening hike through jungle near Rurrenabaque with Leanne and Steph.

A Lesser Spotted Homo Sapiens Pyramid

Bolivia - Todo es posible nada es seguiro

2011-10-23T20:22:00.001-07:00

Found at the very heart of South America is a gem of a country: Bolivia. Bolivia, bless her soul, has some chronic bipolar personality issues to deal with, or as Leanne likes to say: ´she’s a bit of a two-faced bitch´.

On one side, she has low lying landscapes that are lush with vegetation and life, warm and humid, filled with energy and prosperity. Dividing her personalities are massive mountain ranges forming part of the Andes. A short flight, or – if you’re feeling up to it – a long and treacherous bus journey will take you to her other side. Here, her high altitudes result in bitter cold temperatures, vast landscapes void of life except for the most resilient. Unimaginable sceneries that even the best sci-fi writers could never dream up and blinding brightness easily comparable to the white landscape of Antarctica.

Having experienced both her sides, I find it impossible to take preference. Each steals your breath away (literally) and you’ll find yourself gobsmacked by the beauty that she carries with her double edged sword.

Since having arrived in Bolivia I have experienced toe numbing cold, peeling lips and body, altitude sickness that made me want to pluck my eyes out, oxygen deficiency, pounding headaches, sweltering humidity and heat rashes. We have occupied toilets so revolting that you would rather crawl out from the bowl of the infamous ´Trainspotting´ toilet than hover your rosy bottom over them. We have had to learn to be so sparing with loo paper (now referred to as ‘white gold’) that just one sheet will do…if any at all. Luckily for me, I have yet to suffer the dreaded Boliviano bum Bulimia, although Leanne has had a bit of a go at it.

It has been 8 days since we arrived in Bolivia…

...And we have been in the Amazon rain forest. We’ve played with Toucans, watched Sloths and have been surrounded by huge snow-capped volcanoes. We’ve tasted famous Boliviano chocolate in the Spanish colonial plaza of Sucre, known as the ‘White City’. We’ve seen mountains made up of seven unique colours, stood in the middle of the largest salt pan in the world and swam in bubbling hot springs surrounded by ice. We’ve watched thousands of pink flamingos feed on algae in the blood red Colorado Lake. We’ve seen Llamas, Alpaca and wild Vicuna of the Altiplano. We’ve stayed in a hotel made of salt and stood alongside loud sulphurous geysers.

Bolivia, despite my ailments you have been much more than a pleasant surprise… I thoroughly look forward to two more weeks of your company.

Sarah and Simon

Simon the Toucan, Santa Cruz

Sloth in Santa Cruz!

Leanne cruising in Sucre

Cathedral in Sucre.

Old dodge bus in Sucre (The White City- Bolivia's Capital)

2011 on the Salar de Uyuni

The Salar de Uyuni Crew

Leanne and I representing some South Africa

Getting wild in the Salar de Uyuni

Isla Incahausi

Death by Salar de Uyuni

Relaxing in the hot springs- Me, Leanne and Cathryn.

Ol' Geyser (altitude 4980m - not so bueno)

The red Colorado Lake, Altiplano Bolivia

Flamingos on the run, Colorado Lake Bolivia.

A Llama (or Alpaca)

Baby Flamingos

Pink Flamingos, Colorado Lake.

The blood red Colorado Lake, Altiplano Bolivia.

Colorado Lake on the Altiplano and hot spring.

Argentina - Buenos Aires and the Proverbial Tourists

2011-10-12T18:15:00.000-07:00

Leanne and I on our walking mission through the city.

Street Art

Poster on Av. de 9 Julio

Beautiful door near the Peru underground station.

The entrance to the Standard Bank building

Buildings on the corner of Plaza de Mayo

Av. de Roque S. Pena

Flowers at the Jardin Japones

Large trees opposite the Cementerio de la Recota

Large trees opposite the Cementerio de la Rocota

Cathedral near Cementerio de la Recota

Cementerio de la Recota

Cementerio de la Recota

Cafe Tortoni, the oldest coffe shop in Buenos Aires

Tango at the famous Cafe Tortoni

Arriving in Buenos Aires EZE airport armed with no more than five Spanish words, a trusty phrase book in hand, eyes like saucers, and the iconic tortoise shell looking backpack, it was no wonder why we appeared as easy pickings by every taxi driver in sight. The proverbial tourists minus the sunburn. Unfortunetly for the greasy-haired taxi drivers, both Leanne and I were adamant to find a bus even if it would cost us 2-3 hours of gesticulating our way around the airport. And so we did.

Highlights of Buenos Aires: The old buildings along Av. de Mayo, the Cemeterio de la Recota and Tango at Cafe Tortoni the oldest coffee shop in Buenos Aires.

After a two nights in Buenos Aires, we tortoise shell off to Santa Cruz in Bolivia.

Antarctica - earths lilly white rear

2011-09-27T06:57:00.000-07:00

December 2009 – February 2010

Departing on a ship that’s headed for Antarctica, the coldest harshest place on earth with a constellation of country-sized icebergs orbiting around it, is reason enough to make one feel a bit nervous before the voyage. But when the Titanic theme song starts playing over the loud speaker (presumably a joke) while waving good-bye to your loved ones, the curly hair on the back of any hardened sailors neck would straighten.

And in that moment, your legs inadvertently start making there way to shore…

A short battle between survival instincts and the longing for adventure quickly locks them back into place again. And you prepare yourself for the 2-3 week journey ahead.

~~~Sea legs~~~

Sea legs are the essential and quickly evolved capacity of your legs to deal with +8m swells when sailing down south through the roaring forties. The bruises on my clumsy legs were evidence that I was a late bloomer.

At 62deg south, icebergs start appearing in the distance. At 70deg south, sea ice surrounds us and our straight path drawn since Cape Town, starts to zigzag as our captain navigates through it. Sailing into the sea ice, the bending horizon of blues and whites emphasize the curvature of the earth as we approach its bottom.

HUGE icebergs drift near us modestly hiding their bodies underneath the covers of ice blue sea. Their white bodies providing a canvas for reflecting colors of the setting sun.

Besides the light rumble of the ship’s engine, the ice cracking as we moved through bits of sea ice and the squawks from the many Adelie penguins - no other sounds.

Antarctica is a place of beauty. Of raw unspoilt beauty. The forbidden fruit kind of beauty, that when you see it you instantly must have more regardless of the dangers it carries.

Good Bye Cape Town, see you in 3 months

Ship track to from Cape Town to Antarctica

The sailing the roaring forties, sea legs needed.

First few sightings of icebergs

Icebergs, Near the iceshelf

The Ice Fortress

Exploring the ice shelf

Ice caves

Ice bergie on board the MV SA Agulhas

Sunset towards the end of summer

Bad ass Oceanographers and their bad ass ship

Adelie penguins come to investigate the ship cracking its way through the sea ice

'Chilling out' with the Adelie penguins

Adelie penguins on a mission

Sunset over the ice shelf.

Sunset view from the SANAE IV

SANAE IV

Morocco - incomplete

2011-09-21T09:07:00.000-07:00

Pictures of Marrakech, Ourika Valley, Agadir, Tiznit, Tafraout and the Sahara Desert.

Spices from the souk at the Djemaa el-Fna square in Marrakech.

Snake charmer at the Djemaa el-Fna square

The famous Moroccan mint tea :)

Dinner time at Djemaa el-Fna square

Full moon, Djemaa el-Fna square

Ourika Valley, near Marrakech

Tiznit, Ourika Valley near marrakech and Tafraout.

Chilling out in the Anti-Atlas Mountains, Tafraout.

Anchor Point, Agadir

Typical doors in Agadir

An approaching storm in the Sahara Desert, Morocco near the Algerian border.

Our trusty guide who navigated us for four hours through a heavy sandstorm with ease.

Sand storm in Sahara desert

Home in the Sahara desert

Transformed by the Sahara desert - my Morroccan look