Whine On The Rocks

A Case of Questions with Kalia Christoforou, Sommelier

2021-11-24T17:28:00.005+02:00

Ask any hardcore Cypriot and they will tell you there's someone from The Rock on every corner of the world. Case in point, this blog has tracked down a Cypriot sommelier plying her trade in the City of Angels, a short twelve thousand kilometers away from the center of the world. Yes, Cyprus is dead smack in the middle, you heathens.

Originally from Larnaca, Kalia Christoforou kicked off her professional career as a budding actress, taking on acting opportunities in New York, London, and Los Angeles. As a way to make ends meet, however, she dove headfirst into the food and beverage industry where she has worked as a trainer, operations manager, head of food and beverage, and wine director, a role she has fully embraced. She's even had the opportunity to taste some DRC, as you all know, this blog's unicorn wine. So life must be looking up for her in the fast-paced restaurant world.

Over this past summer, when COVID had given us a seemingly brief respite from lockdowns, investing in crypto out of boredom, and making sourdough starters, Kalia was on The Rock where she visited countless wineries, documenting it all on her Instagram account. [Sarcasm alert!] Since we're so on top of things here on this blog [End of sarcasm alert!], we reached out to get her take on Cypriot wine after not having visited the island for more than five years.

Why wine?

I didn’t choose wine. Wine chose me. I've never dreamed or imagined myself being involved in such an industry.

Wine came into my life by a pure accident, and it has stuck with me ever since. Why wine? Wine because it brings people together. Wine because it makes people happy. Wine because it's the healthiest and most ancient alcoholic beverage, also connected to longevity. Wine because it allows you to taste part of the land's history, the culture and tradition. And wine simply because it tastes great.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

One of the perks of working in the hospitality industry is the fact that you get to try some really good food and wine. You would expect me to say that the first wine that captured my attention was either a bottle of elegant DRC, a stunning first growth Bordeaux or a powerful Super Tuscan, but in my case, the story doesn't go like this.

Before I even got the chance to taste many of those legendary wines, back in the days when I started working as a server in New York, I was offered the opportunity to taste an up and coming, at that time, wine from Paso Robles. I was immediately amazed by its beautiful, rich, chocolatey flavor, velvety texture, and complex character. I knew right away that I was tasting something special. That very moment I decided that I wanted to discover and learn more about the amazing world of wine. I never looked back ever since. The wine was Daou Soul of a Lion. I must've been 26 back then.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

I would say, the one I am about to discover and taste next. For me, there is no such thing as a favorite bottle of wine. Of course, I like the classic, highly regarded ones, but I am always super excited to taste something I haven't had before. Even wines made from uncommon varietals, inexpensive yet of a great quality, from non-popular wine regions. It is a very hard question to answer because I tend to enjoy and appreciate many different ones, depending on my mood, the food I am eating, the time of day, the season and year.

With one of the blog's favorite Cypriot reds!

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

I honestly don't have a favorite one. There are wines I like and don't like from many different wine regions. I generally tend to gravitate towards the old world, classic wine regions as they offer more versatility, complexity, and character than the new world ones, that offer the same consistent yet very predictable flavor profiles. After all, I get bored easily.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I can't stay away from the classic pairing of cheese, bread, and wine. For example: A white or red Burgundy with a nice soft brie cheese and sourdough bread. Even a Greek salad with fresh juicy tomatoes, feta cheese, olives, and a soft pitta bread paired with a good quality Chablis, Assyrtiko or Xynisteri. I can literally live on just that for the rest of my life. Champagne and caviar is another favorite, but who can have that on a regular basis? In addition to the above, if I was to choose a not-so-common favorite pairing that would be grilled salmon with a nice Pinot Noir or a Cru Beaujolais.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

Over the past 20 years winemaking has improved so much in Cyprus. The younger generation of winemakers study abroad, expand their knowledge, and return with a great thirst and energy to innovate the way they approach the local indigenous varieties to showcase their best potentials. I've been honestly very impressed by the passion and love some of these producers put into their wines.

One thing that's missing, in my opinion, is maybe a little bit more support from the government, to help them market their products correctly, promote, and introduce our unique and amazing wines (including the most quintessential Cypriot wine, of course, Commandaria), to the rest of the world. I've seen great efforts being made by many Cypriot producers, however, fighting alone isn't always easy nor enough. Until recently, both Greek and Cypriot wines had a bad reputation of being nothing but vinegar to the rest of the world. This isn't at all accurate and well, it is certainly time to change this false misconception.

Checking this year's vintage on The Rock

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

Worldwide recognition. I am ashamed to admit that I didn't think much of Cypriot wines till I was convinced otherwise. Upon my recent visit to the island, after five years, I was introduced to some phenomenal local varieties that can produce delicious, good quality wines. Even a more sophisticated version of a well-crafted, beautifully aged Commandaria, nothing like the ones I had in the past, left me by surprise.

I see a great future ahead for the Cypriot wine industry. Not only do we have so many talented and skillful producers, as well as unique raw materials, but wine culture around the world has been shifting in our favor. More and more wine professionals and wine lovers are turning toward the not so common, non-classic wine regions, in pursuit of new uncommon yet very old wine grape varietals as well as old traditional techniques.

What Cypriot wine would you match with grilled halloumi, The Rock’s greatest contribution to mankind?

Halloumi is a unique type of cheese that's extremely versatile. It changes flavor profile and texture depending on its preparation. It can be served hot or cold, sweet or savory. Even though there are a lot of wines that pair well with it, I would say that a nice off-dry Riesling (to balance the salty element of the cheese) or Xynisteri (to complement its mild delicate flavor) will be perfect. However, the best pairing for Halloumi cheese, in my opinion, would be nothing else but Commandaria. The rich, sweet, raisiny, toffee and caramel flavors combined with the salty, slightly tangy yet super delightful Halloumi cheese, can provide a wonderful contrast of flavors, leading to a match made in heaven.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

The fact that it gives you the opportunity to eat and drink like a king without having to be one. Taste things you couldn't afford tasting otherwise.

All jokes aside, I love the interaction with people. The fact that I get to entertain, educate, and introduce restaurant guests to things they never had before, creating a unique and memorable experience for them that way. I also enjoy the sense of community that surrounds the restaurant world. The fact that it allows you to expand your network, meet amazing people from around the world, and connect with other professionals who happen to share the same passion and interests as you.

Kalia at Vassilikon Winery (?)

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin (AKA Madame Cliquot). Not only was she the first lady in the Champagne industry, but she was also an extremely smart pioneer as well as a talented businesswoman. She invented the riddling table in 1816, transforming champagne into the clear, effervescent drink we all know and love today. There is a lot to learn from such a powerhouse of a woman, on a professional level. Driven from the story, she teaches all of us that the way to success is determination, fearlessness, having a progressive way of thinking, remaining focused, and having good faith and great passion for what you do.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers, or drunken behavior?

I had a guest one time who got kicked out of the restaurant, on a busy night, because he and his 3 friends got super drunk and started to misbehave. They then showed up the next day around 4:30pm, stood at the bar and said that they wished to make up for the previous night's incident. He requested the wine list and placed an order for a $3000 bottle of DRC "Corton". He immediately offered myself and my boss a glass while insisting on pouring the wine himself. Before you even know it, the entire wine was spilled all over the bar counter. He then turned towards me, apologized, and so casually asked me to bring another bottle which he let me handle this time. Despite the crazy incident, they only stayed at the restaurant for 30 minutes, paid for both bottles and left. It was the most random, easiest, and fastest $6500 I've seen a restaurant make so far in my restaurant experience.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

There are truly so many different ones I like. However, you can't go wrong with a good quality Xynisteri or Assyrtiko when it comes to whites and a well-made Maratheftiko or Yiannoudi even, from the reds. To show my respect to all the producers, I'd rather not mention specific names.

You can reach Kalia on Instagram and LinkedIn.

A Case of Questions with Chuck Byers, Canadian Wine Journalist & Television Producer

2020-11-07T12:36:00.012+02:00

From the land that gifted us Alanis Morissette, Ryan Reynolds, Wayne Gretzky and the indomitable maple syrup comes the blog's latest interviewee.

Chuck Byers, who ended up in Canada by way of Malta, has had a passion for wine since 1972 when a friend introduced him to a vintage bottle that is still in his possession, albeit empty. Following some preliminary studies in wine, Chuck jumped head in, penning a popular newspaper column on our favorite beverage and working on a series of local television shows titled Wine Companions, Wine Talk and Wine Dining. It's been a steady climb up since then, both as a wine writer and television producer, authoring books left and right and setting up many series covering far-flung wine regions in Canada, Europe and beyond. Chuck is a proud member of Canada's Wine Writer's Circle and the Circle of Wine Writers in the UK, and has been fortunate enough to visit us here on The Rock as part of his adventures in wine.

What does our first Canadian guest have to say about Cypriot wine? Find out below!

Why wine?

I got into wine for all the wrong reasons. I was working in an office and felt that I needed some form of raison d'être to impress my fellow workers. Keep in mind this was the early 70's and the “James Bond Era” was in full swing. I wanted to have a “shaken not stirred” persona. So, what better way to get “noticed” than to become known as a knowledgeable wine person? I purchased a book by New York wine columnist Terry Robards and read and reread it! I began purchasing wine from the Rare Wine Store and studying each bottle. My attempt to become “impressive” backfired in a way since I found out that wine was more than just a beverage. Wine was history, geography, science and culture and, most of all, wine was indicative to humanity. I became intrigued with the many aspects of wine in history and each bottle developed a whole profile in that what I was holding in my hands had living, historical and geographical significance. I was “hooked.”

When I open a bottle of wine, I realize the labour that went into making it: the dreams of the winemaker and the people and region it comes from. I also think of the time aspect of when it was made! What was going on in its world at the time and also what was going on in my world. So much to ponder and reflect. A good example is Cyprus. When I taste a Commandaria, visions of Richard the Lion Heart spring to mind such as the events leading up to his wedding on the island. I also think of the massive history of Cyprus and its people. Aphrodite, ancient history and Achilles. There is so much involved with wine that one can never know it all and that is what I love most about wine. Always a discovery!

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

My first foray into wine and one that certainly captured my attention was when I was seven years old. I had been a fan of pirate movies and always saw them gulping down copious amounts of wine. My mom had a bottle of red wine on the table getting ready for some celebration and I snuck a huge gulp. I ran to the washroom and spat the harsh, mouth-puckering beverage out into the sink and wondered what all the fuss was about. I never tried wine again (albeit a bit of sacramental wine, which was quite sweet) for a few years.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

In much of my writing I have always contended that atmosphere was about 75 percent of the contributor when it comes to enjoying wine. The “all-time” favourite and memorable wine was a simple bottle of Yago, wrapped in a burlap bag, some 40 years plus ago. I remember coming home from work on the afternoon of a beautiful sunny day. Upon entering my home, I was greeted with the smell of a beef stew that my wife was making at the time. On the television was a movie called King's Pirate. I opened the bottle and cut up some crusty bread and helped myself to the stew. It was divine.

The wine was not even close to being expensive but, to truly be memorable, all the parts have to come together. I have tasted some of the world's best, and make no mistake about it, they are superb wines. However, while the quality does impress in an esoteric way, true memorable experiences have a combination of factors that make them so!

A postscript to this is a time that I was visiting my in-laws in Malta. My brother-in-law took us to a seaside restaurant. The evening was perfect and my meal was a mushroom smothered filet mignon. We laughed and enjoyed each other's company and the bottle of La Valette red wine was absolutely perfect with the meal. Again, the wine was not one of great price or reputation but it was so perfect for that evening. Enough said!

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

Very difficult to say which is my favourite since each region has its specialties. I loved Umbria's Montefalco region for its superb Sagrantino grape and the super cuisine, as well as the beauty of the countryside. Malta is my home country and of course I have a liking for its wine. Cyprus comes close to being one of my most favourite areas. Anyone who has experienced the Troodos Mountains knows what I mean and of course the ancient grape varieties are amazing. So many regions and so many wines!

I guess if I had to pick my favourite I would have to pick a tie between the Similkameen Valley of British Columbia and Prince Edward County in Ontario. The Similkameen Valley is unique as it is part of the northern extension of the Sonoran Desert and Canada's only desert area. It has many superb wineries that produce concentrated red wines and delicious white wines. Canada's answer to Burgundy is Prince Edward County, which relishes its Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc varieties.

However, truly, I say every region I have been to around the world has its own uniqueness that cannot be emulated elsewhere. Anyone who has tried a Cypriot red Maratheftiko or white Xynisteri from Cyprus knows what I mean. Then there are the superb wines from Nova Scotia where French hybrids show that they can make some of the best wine anywhere. The Marechal Foch from wineries such as Jost Vineyards has to be tasted to truly understand their potential. Up and coming are the wines of Prince Edward Island and anyone who has visited the Eastern townships of Canada's Quebec Province knows of the breathtaking scenery and fine wine. Then of course is Portugal with its historic regions and wines. Every wine region in every country has its special places.

Visiting Hadjiantonas Winery in Limassol

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

Nothing beats a large fillet mignon and a bold Syrah or Malbec. I have enjoyed it with many wines but I love that combination. My meat is medium cooked and the wine with at least five years of age! The delicious blending of wine and meat is heavenly. As a runner-up, I love salmon fillet with Pinot Noir either from Prince Edward County or Niagara.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

The only thing that is missing is probably a price point to make it marketable around the globe. I fully support the trend of wineries moving toward their “indigenous” grape varieties. These ancient grapes are worthy of saving. I have also been impressed with the use of cosmopolitan varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In fact, when I was last in Cyprus, I went to a winery called Tsiakkas and tasted a super Merlot that was so concentrated that it had me fooled. However, globally, there is a flood of Merlot, Cabernet and Chardonnay in the market. It would be nice if more of the indigenous wines were able to make it to market. The beginning would be or could be if the wines were in demand locally. Visitors to the island need to know that these wines exist and thus can develop a taste for them. Education here is the key. Personally, I love Cypriot wines and food!

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

This pandemic tragedy has not been kind to any country with wine. So the road up will be even more difficult. The financial situation in Cyprus also is a factor. At this point Cyprus must reach out and educate those wine writers about its wine and cuisine. When the pandemic is lessened and people start traveling more, writers must be encouraged to write about the great wines and cuisine of Cyprus. I would be more than willing to encourage those to come down. To save the country money, I would suggest that a cost sharing model be encouraged with writers such that they pay for their air travel expenses while Cyprus covers the land portion. Fair. Unless a massive form of education takes place, I fear that not only Cypriot vineyards will suffer, but also all vineyards around the globe will suffer with the small wineries being affected first.

What Cypriot wine would you match with grilled halloumi, The Rock’s greatest contribution to mankind?

Fikardos’ blend of Mataro and Cabernet rosé would be a nice match. For more of an indigenous taste, I would have rosés from Tsiakkis, Zambartas and Ezousa. While a Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc or Xynisteri would go well, I would think that a rosé would fill my bill! Light, refreshing and a nice acidity to cut through the cheese’s creaminess.

I smell Maratheftiko

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Of course, I love the travel and meeting new and interesting people, as well as making lifelong friends with those I meet. It is the endless or seemingly endless types of wine and varieties of grapes that has kept my interest in wine going. No one can call him or herself an expert since that entails knowing everything about the subject but there is so much and, after some 40 years, I find that I have merely scratched the surface on the subject. Food is also in that genre since never have I visited a place or country and been bored with the same old. It is this endless variety that keeps my mind moving forward. I would care to say that I do not believe I will ever reach the summit of completeness even if I lived for five lifetimes.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

You do ask very open questions since I have met so many that I like. My mentor was the late great Alex Eberspaecher who was a great writer/consultant in travel, food and wine. He inspired me to move forward and took me under his wing. Alex will always be the one who made me “jump” from merely writing about wine to living it.

One of my favourites has always been Canadian author and columnist Tony Aspler. I have followed his exploits and his writings. The author who I began studying wine “with” was one I never met or spoke to. Terry Robards was the columnist for the New York Times and wrote a book aptly called “New York Times Book of Wine.” This was and will always be the book that I “cut” my teeth on. I read and reread his book until I could almost quote it from memory. I can say without a doubt that, other than Alex, he is my favourite personality. I have had the pleasure of meeting so many wine personalities but the above two or three were the ones who influenced me the most.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

Ah! Yes many! My most embarrassing was many years ago when I was starting out and “feeling my oats”! I was new to the wine field and had a bit of knowledge, which can be very dangerous! I went to a wine tasting at one of Toronto's famous residences called Casa Loma. It was built in castle form at the turn of the 20th century and now was a historic place to visit, as well as hold special events. I arrived somewhat early but found my way to a room that was all prepared with wine buckets and wine bottles out on tables. There was staff preparing tables with bread and butter, etc. So, I wandered around and felt that I could grab a glass and begin tasting; after all, I was invited and was a wine aficionado! I poured a small bit of wine in the glass, smelled, swirled, smelled, sipped, slurped and then spat the wine into one of the buckets. I saw a number of people looking at me funny and one of them who looked very official came over and asked me what I was doing.

“I am here for the tasting,” I said rather indignantly.

“Sir,” came the response, “You are in the wrong room! This is a wedding party. You are tasting the bride's wine and spitting into the flower bucket!” Red-faced, I slid away quickly like the snake I felt like!

On another occasion, I was supposed to give a seminar to a group of restaurateurs. Just prior to going, I accidentally fell and injured my ribs to the point of being in great pain. I did not want to cancel my seminar so I obtained some muscle relaxants from my wife and went. By the time I got there I was feeling no pain but unfortunately my whole bodily functions were compromised. I was demonstrating the proper way to uncork a bottle using a two-pronged wine steward called Ah-So, which one would slide between bottle and cork. I ended up splitting the bottle and causing a mess. Obviously, I never charged the owner for the seminar! Things happen but we use these as learning situations.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

I love Maratheftiko. The wine has an interesting history and has a very interesting way of propagation. Unlike most vines, it cannot fertilize itself when kept with its own species or variety of vines. Thus, it needs to be grown with other species in order to fulfill its destiny. I find the wine flavourful and concentrated but with a great elegance. I have tasted some older wines made from this grape and found them to be capable of some maturation. The colour can be ruby to purple with cherry and violet on the bouquet. Depending on the winemaker, the wine can have other attributes such as vanilla, oak spice, etc.

You can reach Chuck via his blog and on Facebook or Twitter.

A Case of Questions with Matthew Stowell, Food and Wine Writer

2020-06-23T21:33:00.021+03:00

One of my first paid writing jobs was with the now defunct Cyprus Gourmet, a local food and wine magazine started by Patrick Skinner, a dapper British expat who lived in Vouni and moved back to the UK many years ago to live (and chase dreams) in a revamped countryside windmill.

My editor at the time was Matthew Stowell, a talented American writer, journalist and occasional filmmaker who's been in and out of the The Rock more times than a cruise-ship captain docking in Limassol to do shots of zivania with girlfriend #5.

Matthew has had quite an adventurous and eclectic life. He's worked as a cook, bartender, construction worker, VW mechanic, taxi driver, proofreader, New York City bookshop owner, paralegal and English teacher. As a writer, he's served as a dance, visual arts and music critic for newspapers in Boston, San Francisco and Chicago, and written hundreds of articles on food and wine both in the US and Cyprus. Furthermore, he's been a finalist for the 1978 Virginia Prize for Fiction and the 2009 First Amendment Writes Poetry Prize, and was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in Criticism. Matthew is the proud author of two detective novels (Roll Away the Stone and Blind Faith), a collection of poems (The Look of Love) and a book of dramatic works (Three Screenplays and A One Act). Most importantly to this blog's readers, he is the author of the island's latest wine guide, Stowell's Guide to the Wines and Wineries of Cyprus. Matthew is back on The Rock so we reached out and picked his brain on one of his favorite subjects. And make sure to buy his book!

Why wine?

I have been aware of wine and had respect for it since I was a child. I grew up in a large family and we drank wine with dinner—not every day, not with hot dogs and beans, but if the meal was put together as a substantial dinner, my father would send me down to the basement for a bottle of wine. So for me, a meal isn’t a meal without wine.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

When I was a teenager, I confess I liked Liebfraumilch. It was popular then and went down smoothly, but it didn’t really impress me as anything special. The first wine that truly grabbed me and made me sit up and study the label was a Petite Sirah (a cross between Peloursin and Syrah) from the Sonoma Valley in California. I was in my early twenties and living in San Francisco, working as company manager for a modern dance company.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

During those same years in California, I was gifted with a bottle of Chateau Latour from the year of my birth, 1949. My girlfriend and I hitch-hiked down the coast to Big Sur and in a cabin at Deetjin’s Inn we shared the wine. It was an incredible experience. My girlfriend only took a sip then wanted to go for a walk. I told her, “You go ahead. I’m going to drink this wine. I’ll try to save you some.”

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

I really love the wines of Cyprus. When I’m away from the island (at the moment I’m stuck in Mexico City) I crave Cypriot wines above all others. There’s just something about it that speaks to my soul. Next would be Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany and the Douro Valley in Portugal.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

Steak and Maratheftiko.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

In my opinion, nothing. Some people complain that Cyprus doesn’t export its wines, they can’t find Cypriot wines in their home countries. That is because most Cypriot wineries are too small to produce enough bottles for a larger market. Let’s say some New York importer falls in love with a Xinisteri or Maratheftiko and tells the winemaker, I want 100,000 bottles a year, otherwise it’s not worth my while. Most Cypriot winemakers could not do it, or if they did, there would be nothing left for Cyprus. But I think this is a good thing. Keep it small. It’s more conducive to creating top quality wine.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

A few more wineries will open. More experimentation with various grape varieties will take place. The quality, as it has over the past 20 years, will continue to improve.

What Cypriot wine would you match with grilled halloumi, The Rock’s greatest contribution to mankind?

You should always douse grilled halloumi with fresh lemon juice so I would probably drink a single vineyard Xinisteri (well chilled), a dry Rosé or maybe a Morokanella.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

The people in the food and wine business in Cyprus, for the most part, are intelligent, passionate and generous individuals who enjoy the good things in life and love to share them, so I am always pleased to spend time with them. But I particularly enjoy introducing Cypriot wines to those who are unfamiliar with them, especially to people who have the antiquated opinion that our wines are inferior to those of France, Italy, Spain or the Americas.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

J. Liebling, a food (and wine) writer for the New Yorker about 70 years ago. He once quoted a playwright friend of his who, admonishing his cook, said, “The wine cellar is becoming a disgrace—no more ‘34s and hardly any ‘37s. Last week I had to offer my publisher a bottle that was far too good for him, simply because there was nothing between the insulting and the superlative.”

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

I hadn’t been truly intoxicated since high school when I overindulged at a wine presentation/dinner at the Columbia Steak House in Limassol. Before dinner, when we were supposed to mingle in a bar area, I was nervous among so many strangers and could not say no every time a waiter approached with a tray of glasses of the new Zambartas rosé. And it was amazingly good wine! I forgot that there were several more wines to sample with dinner, but I dutifully sampled them and got so woozy I couldn’t speak English (or any form of Greek). Akis Zambartas had to drive me home, but we laughed together like newly minted oligarchs.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

I was visiting some in-laws in Limassol who didn’t drink much wine, but they knew I was passionate about it. As I was leaving, the hostess dug around behind some books in their library and pulled out a 15-year-old bottle of Ayios Elias (from the Chrysorroyiatissa Monastery in Panayia) and handed it to me. I opened it a couple of days later, and it was extraordinary! It was also solid proof that Cypriot wines had ageing potential.

You can contact Matthew via email or Facebook.

A Case of Questions with Terry Kandylis, Beverage & Wine Director, Lucas Restaurant Group

2020-05-06T20:05:00.000+03:00

As you all know by now, this blog's interview involves a standard case of questions that (hopefully) elicits non-standard (i.e., wild, remarkable, insightful, embarrassing, etc.,) answers. In today's case, if our Editor had gifted us with the flexibility to drop one of the usual questions, we would have straight-up asked Terry Kandylis, former Head Sommelier at London's iconic 67 Pall Mall, how he went from studying physics in Athens to getting physical with wine as one of Europe's best sommeliers.

Prior to his stint at 67 Pall Mall, Terry, who's originally from Greece, spent time fine-tuning his palate at acclaimed restaurants such as The Fat Duck and The Ledbury in the UK, while wrapping up his WSET diploma and advanced level of the Court of Master Sommeliers exam. As a professional sommelier, Terry was also crowned Best Sommelier in Greece in 2015, the UK's Best Sommelier in 2016 and winner of the 2013 Sommelier South African Cup.

Now Terry is heading Down Under where he will live and work just a skip and a hop away from the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Geelong and countless other world-class Australian wine regions. There, Terry will manage wines and drinks for the Lucas Restaurant Group, a consortium of Asian-inspired eateries in both Melbourne and Sydney.

Since Terry has been to Cyprus on several occasions and has plenty of friends on The Rock, we thought we'd reach out before he heads southeast on his next adventure in this wonderful world of wine.

Why wine?

I fell in love with hospitality, to be surrounded by people, different cultures and languages. Wine came naturally. It's our social lubricant, the medium to spark the most amazing of conversations, and I was fascinated by how it can make your senses travel and how it can remind you of childhood memories, people, places.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

I came relatively late into the industry, so I was around 23 years old. The first one that really captured my attention was a 1983 Cos D’Estournel. It's my birth year, so it was quite special to try something as old as you are.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

1978 La Tâche. I have and had the privilege to try amazing wines in my life and haven’t tried yet a more complex, seductive and poised wine than this. If the nine Muses could be impersonated into a bottle of wine, then that’s it.

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

Burgundy! Because they make wines that can speak to the soul.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

Anchovies, olives and Sherry.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

It's missing the brand name at the moment. It could be a variety or a region. Or both combined. Unfortunately, sweet wines sales have been declining for decades now, so Commandaria is a hard sell. If you look into Greece’s recent success with Santorini, I think there is definitely global interest and potential with indigenous varieties from amazing terroirs. And Cyprus has to show to the world that it has both beautiful indigenous varieties and a unique terroir.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

Maybe not dissimilar to Greece, people will start to recognise the potential of the local grapes. And hopefully they will become more confident in their wine-making, allowing the varietal typicity to shine and the terroir to speak through their wine-making, rather than their wine-making covering the terroir.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

I do enjoy spending time with generous and passionate people that really care about their regions and the environment, value life and its gifts, and have a vision for a better world.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

I am moving to Australia and Melbourne, in particular, so I will say that’s part of my 5 year plan of where I see myself.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Gerard Basset. I had the chance to meet him in person and interact with him. His ethos, humble approach and continuous thirst for knowledge and generosity to help the people in our industry make him stand apart. A true gentleman and a real loss to the industry.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

I despise drunken behaviour and believe that, as our ancient ancestors used to say, greatness comes in moderation. Our job might have lots of colourful moments and heaps of fun, but it hides many dangers that every professional should know how to avoid and deal with. And it's a serious job as we need to take care of our guests and protect them.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

I apologise in advance to my Cypriot and Greek friends. I love islands and volcanic wines in particular, but my favourite island wine is Madeira!

You can find Terry Kandylis on Twitter, Instagram and LinkedIn.

A Case of Questions with Adam Montefiore, Wine Trade Veteran & Wine Writer

2020-04-30T10:49:00.001+03:00

The Eastern Mediterranean has a seemingly eternal history of winemaking. Countries such as Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Greece and Cyprus, to name only a handful, have been making wine for eons and eons, longer even than the time it takes me to compose a blog post.

One of the most important wine personalities chronicling this history, particularly when it comes to Israel, is Adam Montefiore, British born, who moved to Israel more than thirty years ago and devoted his life to championing his adoptive country's wine.

Throughout his career, Adam has worked for Israeli wineries, helped develop a global brand for the country's wine industry, lectured about his drinkable passion at important universities and participated as a judge in international wine competitions. Today, he offers educational services and promotes Israeli wine as a partner in both the Israel Wine Experience and Handcrafted Wines of Israel, while leading his own consultancy through which he helps a number of leading wineries, hotels, restaurants, retailers and private collectors.

Most remarkably, Adam has promoted Israeli and other Eastern Mediterranean wines via his writing. He penned the book The Wine Route of Israel and has contributed to Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book, Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine A-Z and Jancis Robinson's The Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine. To this day, he works as the wine writer for the Jerusalem Post and is an active member of The Circle of Wine Writers.

Since Adam has visited The Rock and knows Cypriot wine quite well, we thought we'd reach out and see what he has to say about Israel's next door neighbor and the state of its wine industry. L'chayim!

Why wine?

I started in beer working for Bass Charrington, then the largest brewery and pub owner in the UK, who produced or marketed beer, wines, spirits and soft drinks. The company had wine interests being owners of wine shippers Hedges & Butler, Bordeaux negociants Alexis Lichine and Chateau Lascombes. They put me on a WSET course to make up the numbers in 1979. On completing the course, we were given a copy of Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book. That was the beginning. Gradually I slipped from beer to wine, which I found more absorbing, complex and broad. Who would know then, that I would later be a contributor to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book for, to date, over 25 years?

Why wine? I would like to answer with the famous monologue by Robert Mondavi. Without quoting it in full, I can simply say it ends with the simple sentence “Wine is life.” Through wine I experience agriculture, art, technology, archaeology, history, gastronomy, religion, tourism, geography and peoplehood. It is so much more than a drink. It has a broad literature and I enjoy reading and talking about wine as much as drinking it.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

The first wine I noticed was Palwin, a sacramental wine, which was served at our Passover meals. This was my earliest wine memory. The wine was red, sweet and to my mind as a child, it was tasty. It was a thrill to drink it, because it felt slightly naughty. With regard to age, seeing the bottle on the table was an early memory. I could have been anything from five years old upwards, but imagine I was a little older when I was allowed to taste it. Whatever age it was, I looked forward to be given a sip of the forbidden fruit.

The first wine I purchased, drank and enjoyed was a brand called Hirondelle. It was a bland, harmless wine with no obvious character, but it was cheap coming in a liter bottle and was easy drinking. Perfect for the new wine drinker. I must have been about twenty when I first purchased this as my first wine of choice.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

An all-time favorite wine is as difficult to pinpoint as a favorite meal. However, I will never forget the first great wine I drank. It was a Château Mouton Rothschild 1971. This was an epiphany moment. I will never forget the color, the deep concentration of fruit and the aroma of cigar box. For the first time I understood the depth and quality of this subject called wine. It was the first luxury wine I tasted, and though it sounds corny, it really opened a window in my mind.

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

I love the wines of the Eastern Mediterranean. This is a fascinating wine region that gave wine culture to the world, and in terms of both volume and quality, it really was the France & Italy of ancient times. The region as a whole made terrible wines for 2,000 years but recently there has been a very exciting revival. It is a region of mountains, sea, stony soils, hot sun, indigenous varieties, mud coffee, anise flavored spirits (Arak, Raki & Ouzo) and East Med cuisine, which is becoming so popular. It is also a region where the wine producing countries are unfortunately divided by war, discord and religion. However, taking the Eastern Med countries together, it is a whole new world of wine, in one of the oldest wine producing regions on earth. I have been a passionate advocate of the Eastern Mediterranean as a quality wine region for over thirty years.

Outside the love of my life, my favorite wines are made from Riesling and Pinot Noir. I love Italy, in particular Piedmont and Tuscany, can’t ignore Bordeaux and recently became captivated by Portugal after visiting for the first time.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I don’t believe in matching food and wine, though as an exercise it is fun and rewarding when you get it right and reach the satisfaction of 1+1=3. I suppose, showing my British roots, a good vintage port and a ripe stilton cheese is a combination that is hard to beat. I also get a kick of drinking food and wine from the same region or terroir. Generally though, I drink the wine I want and the food I want and get along fine. I think we can spend too much time on pretentious exercises. In the end, wine is to enjoy with a meal, but it is important to remember, that the idea of professional tastings, wine scores and competitions, which we spend so much time on in the wine trade, is not really what wine is all about.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

A national identity, branding and an international presence. I believe the industry lacks confidence and should be bolder in being outgoing and less provincial. Cypriot wineries have a great product and a wonderful story. I wish the marketing was more international, assertive and informative.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

The move to higher elevation vineyards and the trend of wineries owning their own vineyards will continue. The wonderful range of indigenous varieties (Maratheftiko, Yiannoudi, Promara, Morokanella, etc.,) will continue to be explored and developed further. Xynisteri is so much better from high altitude vineyards and I have even tasted some old vine Mavros with enchanting aromas. I believe in the wines and am sure we will be hearing a great deal more of Cypriot wine in the future.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Food, wine and friends is a holy trinity, like a three-legged stool. If one is missing it all falls. Sharing wine with friends, along with good food is the best. Meeting and learning about people, places and their wines is a wonderful experience. I am so fortunate my hobby is my profession. In any case, in truth we are not in the wine business, but the people business. It is all about connections, with a shared passion.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

I spent most of my career working with only three companies: Bass Charrington in the UK, and then the Golan Heights Winery and Carmel Winery in Israel. Now I am on my time, independent and self-employed, and having fun. I am the wine writer for the Jerusalem Post, for whom I have written since 2010. I manage my own wine consultancy business and I am a partner in the Israel Wine Experience. My five year plan is to continue what I love to do: writing, educating, consulting and lecturing about wine.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Two heroes of mine were Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, who taught us so much about wine, branding and marketing. They were in my opinion giants and the greatest wine personalities of the 20th century. Both effected change and were great innovators.

Currently, I believe Jancis Robinson MW stands above all others as a wine critic, wine writer and communicator. Her depth of knowledge is unparalleled and she carries her dominant position with grace and generosity. She can produce wine books of the greatest scholastic depth, yet also has the ability to communicate at eye level with the beginner. Hard to believe both these abilities are contained in the same person. What a gift!

I have also enjoyed the beautiful wine literature of Hugh Johnson, who writes like a poet. His books have accompanied me from my first, youthful steps in wine and even now I can lose myself in his prose.

(As a declaration of interest, if relevant, I should point out I contribute to The Oxford Companion To Wine, The World Atlas of Wine and, as already mentioned, The Pocket Wine Book.)

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

Yes many. What comes to mind is a tutored tasting when I nosed a wine and began pontificating about it in great detail. After five minutes of giving intricate details, someone took pity on me and whispered in my ear what was painfully obvious to everyone else: “I think you may be talking about the incorrect wine.” Unfortunately I was on auto-pilot, talking about the next wine on the list, but not about the wine in everyone’s glass! Embarrassing, but hilarious too.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

I can’t name one wine. I enjoyed a ten year old Ezousa Maratheftiko 2009 and an eighteen year old Vasilikon Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. Other wines that come to mind that I will look out for are the Zambartas Xynisteri, Vlassides Shiraz, Zambartas Maratheftiko and Tsiakkas Commandaria. If we are talking tradition, I can’t ignore an old ETKO Centurion Commandaria, but I can’t remember the vintage.

You can reach Adam via his website or LinkedIn.

Anatomy of a Sommpetition

2020-04-23T22:54:00.000+03:00

Welcome to this running diary of the 5th Best Young Sommelier Competition held on November 22, 2019 at Kyperounda Winery, way up in the heart of the Troodos mountain range!

9:30 am: I park across the street from Kyperounda Winery, the best halloumopitta on The Rock warming my lap and innards following a brief stop in Astromeritis' Ste-Ma Bakery, as they set up the winery's reception area for the sommpetition.

There are three separate tables of judges consisting of the crème de la crème of The Rock's wine and food world. There is Andreas Kyprianou of Vinocultura, Paola Papacosta of Cypriot & Proud, CySomm's trio of Georges (Kassianos, Loukakis & Zacharoglou), Vassos Manoli of Pralina Experience, Stalo Arambantzi of Four Seasons, Charis Stylianides of O'Vrakas Taverna, Minas Mina of Kyperounda Winery, Teddy Kandylis of 67 Pall Mall in London and countless others. Serving as Master of Ceremonies, Sotiris Neophytides, now Head Sommelier at Amara in Limassol. Just as in the case of the annual Cyprus Wine Competition, if the soirée had been somewhat less sophisticated and legitimate, I might have been invited as a judge to muddle things up.

We're informed that 3 of the 9 sommeliers move on to the final where they will go through a blind tasting of wines and spirits and a serving component while being bombarded with questions by the judging panel who pretend to be not-so-petulant customers at a high-end restaurant.

10:00 am: To avoid any biases, all judgments are done blindly. Hence, each participant is donned with a unique number and the judges do not know what number is assigned to whom. If only justice out in the real world were this straightforward and transparent.

MC Neo starts rifling out numbers like a race caller at the Kentucky Derby. 306! 482! 920! I'm waiting for an excited octogenarian with bad hips, a flowered ankle-length dress and patchouli-scented perfume to yell out "Bingo!" and jump on stage to claim her prize. What does she win? A camouflage crock pot, of course.

The deserving finalists!

Jessica-Stella Thoma of Parklane Resort and Spa in Limassol, Adrian Andronache of Rous Restaurant in Nicosia, and Konstantinos Grigoriou of Fereos Fourpoint Distribution are the designated finalists.

10:40 am: More numbers are barked out; this time to determine the order of the proceedings. To my disappointment, no one yells out "Bingo!" Adrian goes first, followed by Konstantinos and then Jessica. Game on, somms.

“I'm excited. It's the first time I manage to reach the final. I'm glad to be here, everything is a plus from this moment on,” Adrian tells MC Neo.

Each table before the somm poses a set of specific challenges. Table 1 orders two glasses of Commandaria (one on the rocks) and an ice cold Cypriot beer. Table 2 is looking to pair a set menu designed by the executive chef of Pralina Experience in Nicosia with individual wines. Table 3 requests a bottle of red wine, which the somm has to properly decant and serve, and a chilled shot of Cypriot firewater. Each table has to be cleared in six, seven (with one minute to look over the menu) and seven minutes, respectively. About the time it takes me to write half a sentence for this post while Little Miss Muse chooses to go out boozing with her girlfriends and leaves me stranded on the deserted island of ineptitude.

Adrian's somm style is obvious from the get-go. He is super chatty, delivering plenty of information to his clients and offering up suggestions, many times at a supersonic (give me gin n' tonic) speed. When Stalo asks for an ice cube in her Commandaria, Adrian brings up dilution, talks about the Cypriot landmark wine being better as a digestif and suggests instead serving her a sparkler, G&T or other cocktail. Besides being accommodating, Rous' somm is also very thorough in providing extra information on the drinks requested, from the aging process for Kyperounda Winery's Commandaria to the history behind Leon, The Rock's first beer.

The menu for Table 2 (as we later find out) consists of actual dishes served at an event hosted by the Cypriot President for foreign dignitaries.

For the sake of simplicity and as a tribute to my past life as a number cruncher for an energy consulting firm, I'm going to break out a table to summarize this portion of the event.

Some observations from Press Row, the best seat in the house:

A relative dearth of red wines are selected, which is understandable considering the menu. My one question mark would be Konstantinos' choice of Yiannoudi to match the grouper.
Kyperounda Winery's Chardonnays, which I love, got mentioned more than Donald Trump tweets. Maybe the somms thought said choice would endear them to the judges and the event's official sponsors?
I appreciate the sommeliers' efforts to (almost exclusively) list Cypriot wines for each dish.
Commandaria is king, queen, prince and princess of this wine court.

Now back to your regular programming.

Table 3 involves serving a red wine and zivania. A quick play-by-play analysis of Adrian's "performance" offers beginners like myself a good introduction to the world of wine service.

Adrian Andronache

Adrian sets up a wine basket with a napkin and towel and checks each single glass to make sure they are not smudged with magenta lipstick or suspicious fingerprints or streaks of lamb grease before setting them on a tray and distributing them among the judges. He lights a candle. Gently, with nary a sound, he uncorks the bottle of Kyperounda's Andessitis he's picked for the guests. He asks who would like to taste the wine and makes sure the cork is in good condition. He pours himself a glass, swirls it in the decanter and returns it to his glass. Takes a whiff and tastes the wine to make sure it does not smell/taste like wet cardboard or rotten eggs or [insert wine fault of your choice]. Then he decants the bottle over the candle to make sure there's no sediment being transferred into the receptacle. Serves a glass for the table's designated taster. Adrian wraps up by offering a pairing for the wine of choice, asks to remove the cork and pops out a fancy gold gadget—it looks like a mini bell or a thimble attached to a rod—to tactfully burn out the candle. Personally, I would have gone the licked fingers or birthday cake blowout route. Andreas Kyprianou probably trained him well.

11:00 am: Now we enter what's probably the toughest part of any wine competition or certification—the blind tasting (or random guessing game if you have the level of training of an Ecuadorian wine blogger).

There are six black glasses with spirits that must be identified correctly, and one glass of wine that must be described in great detail (think a three-minute run-on sentence on your favorite beverage). Of course, the candidate must also venture a guess based on their sensorial talents.

Again, to cut through my wordiness, here's a table summarizing the candidates' tasting notes and guesstimates.

More observations from Press Row, the best seat in the house:

From where I sit, the three seem to do a decent job describing the wine, despite their guesses being all over the place. They move from point to point quite quickly and offer enough detail for the audience to get an idea of what they were experiencing.
Considering that the event is sponsored by Kyperounda Winery and Photos Photiades Ltd., I wonder whether the candidates studied the company's wine portfolio ahead of time. As a participant, I might have assumed that the wine before me was one provided to the competition by the sponsors.
The wine is the 2018 Roxani Matsa Estate Malagouzia from Attica in Greece. Yes, imported to The Rock by Photos Photiades Ltd. [Editor's Note: Insert your favorite smart-ass GIF].

Finally, the six black glasses are a combination of Commandaria (fortified and non-fortified), Zivania (oaked and unoaked) and citrus liqueurs, a selection that didn't pose too many challenges to the participants.

11:20 am: – Konstantinos is up next.

“As expected. Stressed,” he tells MC Neo.

Konstantinos Grigoriou

As soon as he gets started with Table 1, it becomes quite apparent that Konstantinos' style is the polar opposite of Adrian's. There is hardly an introduction and very little talking and information shared. He jumps straight into the serving, pouring the couple glasses of Commandaria, setting a glass with ice next to them, and offering up a Carlsberg, which, if we're being honest, wouldn't fly had I ordered a Cypriot beer. There's little flare to his presentation; Konstantinos works his way through the challenge, seemingly more focused on getting the job done in a fast, efficient and satisfactory manner rather than charming his customers or offering them interesting insights into their selections.

Once he hits Table 3, his nerves are rather visible. The wine glasses rattle on the tray as he places them on the table. Konstantinos says the wine he has picked does not necessarily need decanting but he will do as the client wishes. He cracks a joke about the candle also offering ambiance and uses his fingers (unless I imagined it) to burn it out once it's done romancing the room. Then, he runs out of time while suggesting a beef filet to pair with the wine.

12:05 pm: Last but not least, it's time for Jessica's shot at the title.

“Where’s the exit?” she quips.

Jessica-Stella Thoma

She follows in the same style established by Konstantinos. There's no small talk or introduction or second-guessing the judges. Jessica asks the judges if they want to try the Commandaria and what beer they'd prefer—Carlsberg or Leon. [Editor's Note: Leon. Duh.] Like Konstantinos, she seems nervous and doubts some of her moves.

This pattern continues onto Table 3 where again there is hardly any chitchat or questions to the judges. She stumbles while trying to light the candle, asks a judge whether she should try the wine for him, presents the table the cork and wraps up her waltz by suggesting braised veal cheeks as the perfect accompaniment to the red wine she has decanted.

She recovers following a shaky start and bumps Konstantinos off second place in my final podium predictions.

12:40 pm: Oh! A surprise! We love surprises!

The candidates are asked to identify the grapes behind some of the world's most famous labels, a few more obscure than others but an entertaining exercise nevertheless. Each bottle is flashed on a screen for 10 seconds and the somms have to write out the grape on their flip chart.

Of course, I decide to play along and make a fool of myself. From 1 to 10, here are my guesses: Merlot & Cabernet Franc, Shiraz (GSM), Sangiovese, can’t see (squinting), Shiraz, my eyes fail me again, Nebbiolo, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc (?) (stop blaming your poor eyesight) and Malbec.

Did I get any right? I doubt it. Now back to my cave.

Wine Scribble was there too & here's plenty of footage better than my writing.

12:50 pm: What's a sommpetition without wine for the attendees? We are handed glasses of Kyperounda Winery's 2018 Akti Rosé, its Provence-style, coral-toned blush rendering the overcast and cold morning forgotten.

13:15 pm: It's finally time. The scores have been tallied and the results are in.

Press Row, the best seat in the house.

Pralina Experience's Vassos Manoli thanks Kyperounda Winery and Photos Photiades Ltd., for hosting the event and reminds us we have a date come November 2020 for the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale's (ASI) Contest for the Best Sommelier of Europe & Africa that will be hosted in Limassol. [Editor's Note: This was pre-COVID-19 so things are now up in the air. Bonus question: If Coronavirus were a grape variety, what would it be? We vote for Zinfandel. Wait, should I duck or are we all in agreement?]

Drum roll please.

In third place, Konstantinos Grigoriou. Second place to Jessica-Stella Thoma. And this year's grand winner is Adrian Andronache. As I had *cough, cough* predicted.

A few final observations from Press Row, the best seat in the house:

I believe a huge part of a sommelier's job involves charisma. Personalities, however, vary to large degrees. Some are more personable and engaging while others are more reserved and strictly focus on efficiently serving customers without any unnecessary interruptions or fanfare. Both of these personalities were on display during this competition, and I guess a customer's preference ultimately depends on his or her own personality and needs. Of course, proper etiquette, wine connoisseurship and respecting your cash-carrying customers are non-negotiable.

In any case, all three candidates, despite the understandable nerves amassed by performing as young professionals on a big stage before peers and fanboys like myself, did admirably well and have bright futures in the hospitality sector on The Rock.

Congratulations to all three and until next year!

A Case of Questions with Mark Squires, Journalist, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

2020-02-22T18:12:00.001+02:00

Imagine starting off your professional life as a lawyer and then giving it all up once those velvety tannins, that piercing acidity, the eternal caudalie and notes of [insert your favorite aromas] of a fine wine hit your palate like a teenager struck by wave upon wave of unadulterated lust.

Something like this seemingly happened to Mark Squires, one of Robert Parker Wine Advocate's main wine reviewers. In the late 1980s, following his discovery of fine wine during a series of visits to France, Mark Squires jump-started his second career, teaching wine classes and writing about his newfound love during his spare time as an attorney in Philadelphia. In 1995, he launched his own website, one that established him as a preeminent reviewer, being frequently featured in Food & Wine, the New York Times, the Philadelphia Enquirer and Business Week. A few years later, Mark Squires joined the Wine Advocate team, becoming the company's go-to guy on all-things Portugal (lucky man!), while also covering Eastern Europe, Virginia (Go Hoos!) and our beloved Rock, among others.

We've miraculously managed to snag an interview with Mark, who had plenty to say about Cypriot wines and his rise as a wine journalist from the ashes of the legal world. Whatever you do, read his embarrassing episode involving wine; it's one of the best we've featured so far. First growth "blend" anyone?

Why wine?

I tried some. I liked some. I became obsessed. It's better than being a lawyer.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

As a child I was introduced on occasion to hideous sweet wines largely for religious events. It's a wonder I ever tried wine again. But I eventually came to like things like Mouton Cadet in my early 20s. It didn't get serious for another few years though—when I started trying things like Mouton Rothschild, Mondavi Reserve Cabernet and Arnoux Vosne-Romanée.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

Impossible to answer—depends on the mood, the occasion, the meal. I have never believed in "it has to be this one." I'm eclectic and I like many things. I can enjoy inexpensive but interesting wines just as much as fabulous trophies. In fact, these days I'm kind of sick of trophy wines. Too much money for too little thrill.

With Manuel Lobo of Quinta do Crasto in Douro

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

As suggested in the prior answer, I'm eclectic. I like some things more than others, to be sure, but I like diversity. Many things that aren't absolute favorites still have a place. It would be boring to drink the same things over and again, even if they were my absolute favorites. That said, I do especially like Bordeaux, Riesling from various places, and Port from Portugal. But a lot of times I'm reaching for Moschofilero or Loureiro or...well, there is no end to this answer in theory.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I think Cab'n'Cow—that is steak and Cabernet Sauvignon (or a blend). I have to say in white that Assyrtiko (maybe especially oaked Assyrtiko) goes very well with linguini and white clam sauce.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

Cyprus has some interesting grapes—which I feel is important in terms of creating an identity. But it sure is hard work promoting grapes like Morokanella, Promara and Maratheftiko. There needs to be more producers doing these wines AND educating people about them. First, you have to have a critical mass of good producers. Then, you have to work on getting the message out. No one is just going to beat down the door because you have good wines. Both parts matter. Honestly, I think selling wine is harder than making it these days.

With Assyrtiko magician Paris Sigalas at a London event

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

It's going to be a slow but (hopefully) steady course upwards. I think the days when there is a "big bang" and some region suddenly arrives—those days no longer exist. There is too much competition. Every region like Cyprus has to be prepared to be slow and steady. Take small victories every year. Keep plugging away. Keep educating on the grapes and terroir. Get a foot in the door in international markets. Keeping prying it open, a little at a time. Don't get discouraged.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

I love being introduced to new things. I hate being the "same old, same old" guy. I mostly cover emerging regions, and that has given me the ability to see wines from Mantinia, Naoussa, Santorini and so on that I might never have seen. I understand everybody has a lot to choose from. It's hard finding the time to taste everything. This job leads me into interesting areas and makes me pay attention. I've acquired new favorites that I will drink for the rest of my life.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

It is probable that I will still be doing this, but I don't really have a five-year plan.

Collecting awards in Lisbon

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Hard question. So many good choices, but how about Randall Graham (Bonny Doon Vineyard)? He's just so funny.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

So many. So many are unprintable. With others, if I told you, I'd have to kill you. Here's a gentle one: I was a member of a group that was having a big night—we had all the first growths in Bordeaux, plus some things like Petrus and what not, from a particular year—1985 as I recall. We had so many wines that, alas, we were even spitting and dumping wines of that caliber a little. Yes, a travesty. (And honestly, that's why I don't like those crazy tastings any more.) The dump/spit bucket was kind of full. One of the guys, drunk, looked at some other clients in the restaurant who were kind of staring us, and decided to go around and offer them pours from the dump bucket. They didn't realize what it was. Everyone seemed happy. I tasted a little too—a blend of Margaux, Latour, Mouton, Haut Brion, Cheval Blanc, etc—it was actually good. If you could ignore the sanitary aspects. Hey, the alcohol kills germs.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot wine?

I'm a fan of Commandaria, but I always shy away from words like "favorite" and "best." They are too much a matter of taste and a matter of the moment. Let's concentrate on things off-the-beaten-track, and recent, since those are things I'm focusing on now. I really liked the Vouni Panayia 2017 Woman in the Wine Press I just reviewed recently.

You can reach Mark via email, Twitter and Instagram.

A Case of Questions with Susan Kostrzewa, Editor-in-Chief, Wine Enthusiast

2020-01-13T07:31:00.001+02:00

As I scour the Internet's endless vats of information, I often come across personalities that have a deep interest in The Rock's wine. It may be a chef with Cypriot roots working abroad or a blogger who's visited Cyprus to write about its indigenous varieties. Regardless of who it is, it's always exciting to come across this treasure trove of names and discover their different opinions on Cyprus wine.

I first came across Susan Kostrzewa's brilliant coverage of Greek wine a few years ago to only later find out she also has a soft spot for The Rock, reviewing Cypriot wines for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, one of the world's leading sources for wine accessories, storage, information, education, events and travel. Susan has been at Wine Enthusiast for the past 14 years, writing and editing wine, food and travel articles, while also serving as the magazine's Editor-in-Chief and overseeing its tasting programs.

Below are her thoughts on Cypriot wine and her career in the wonderful world of wine.

Why wine?

Wine is connected to fine living, culture, travel, enjoyment, community, celebration, food. All of the great things in life.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

My early appreciation of wine happened when I was living in California. The first wine that really impressed me was a Rochiolo Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from Sonoma.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

That’s a tough one to answer because there are so many delicious wines I have had the privilege to taste. But I think some of my favorite wine moments are connected to memorable travel experiences. Drinking Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc (South Africa) from the back of a safari Jeep with giraffes walking by in the Singita preserve is an example of this…I’ll always remember that bottle and that moment. And of course drinking Commandaria, the oldest named wine in the world, after visiting Petra Tou Romiou was also a once-in-a-lifetime thrill.

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

Another tough question but in all honesty I think Cyprus and Greece are both incredible because of the history of their varieties and the incredibly rich wine cultures and lifestyle they offer. There are not many places in the world that can boast thousands of years of winemaking history and enjoyment. I think this is fascinating to most global wine drinkers and they are still learning about the incredible wines and experiences to be had in these places.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I love oysters and Chablis…fresh, clean, always delicious!

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

I would not say they are missing the product…just the exposure. It would be great to see more promotion of the Cypriot wine industry in America via more events and tastings. Cyprus has an incredible wine culture, history, is a beautiful tourism destination…it has all of the elements needed to attract wine lovers. More people need to know about it.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

I think now is the time for regions like Cyprus to tell their story in international markets and definitely to promote the many millennia of wine history found there. American consumers are increasingly adventurous and looking for affordable but delicious new products with an interesting story. Cypriot wines offer this. Producers like Tsiakkas are working hard in new markets and creating world-class products, which helps the entire category. I think if that continues the category will grow in wine-focused markets like New York. It’s also important that sommeliers know about the wines, because when they taste them, they usually fall in love with them and their story.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Learning something new every day and working with people from so many different cultures.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

Perhaps to eventually travel more and educate people around the world about wine.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Laura Catena, the owner of Bodega Catana Zapata, is an inspiration and a force to be reckoned with. I have great respect for her and her tireless work growing awareness of Argentina. She’s also an emergency room doctor on top of that so she’s a true hero.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

I think like most wine professionals there was a time when I was not very skilled at using a spit bucket at public tastings. I probably missed a few times but that was years ago! I’m a pro now!

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

A nice, crisp Xynisteri is a great island wine! But I’m pretty partial to Cristal Champagne, and the winemaker at Louis Roederer, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, is a true artist. I could happily drink that every day. 😊

You can reach Susan Kostrzewa via email, Instagram and Twitter.

International Sommelier Competition Coming to Cyprus!

2019-12-31T11:27:00.001+02:00

I'm not sure how many of you have heard, but Limassol will be hosting in 2020 the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale's (ASI) Best Sommelier of Europe & Africa competition. This should be a wonderful opportunity to showcase The Rock's wines and our little island as a great wine tourism destination. Check out the event's first press release below and stay tuned for plenty of more news on this world-class event coming to our shores next November.

ASI Contest of the Best Sommelier of Europe & Africa 2020 to be held in Cyprus

"1 Year to Go!"

Limassol, Cyprus -- Candidates from 3 African and 37 European countries will soon be squaring off in Cyprus for the title of “ASI Best Sommelier of Europe & Africa 2020.” The competition, to be held in the city of Limassol from 16-20 November 2020, will offer a colorful and press-friendly presentation of world-class wine professionals.

The wine-loving nation is proud to be hosting such a high-caliber event. “We are excited that in one year from today, the finest talents in wine service from all over Europe and Africa will gather on our island to determine a winner of the continental contest,” says Georgios Kassianos, President of the Cyprus Sommeliers Association.

His association is expecting many important guests. Each competing country will send a delegation including the candidate, the president of its national sommelier association and a journalist. Invitations will also be extended to all ASI presidents outside Europe and Africa as well.

Limassol was selected as host city in 2017 at the ASI’s General Assembly in Bordeaux.

Known as the international business hub of Cyprus, Limassol features both eye-catching historical flair, including a castle and historic center, as well as modern amenities such as a flashy marina and modern boutiques. And of course high-quality restaurants ready to treat travelers and locals to fantastic wines.

Georgios Kassianos

Two years into preparations, the event’s organizers express confidence that all will come together well. “The planning committee along with the ASI Technical Committee are promising a well-organized competition and a spectacular final. Journalists and presidents will tour the Cyprus vineyards and taste Cyprus wines,” Kassianos says. The ASI’s international sponsors will have a chance throughout the five day event to promote their products through organized workshops and participating at Bar Des Sommeliers, he added.

ASI President Andrés Rosberg expressed confidence in the event and its organizers: “Cyprus is a land of fantastic beauty, exquisite food and fascinating wines, domestic and imported. It is the perfect island meeting spot for a competition expected to draw the savviest wine professionals from two continents. It’s going to be a fantastic event.”

The winner of the competition will be offered an invitation to compete in the next ASI’s Best Sommelier of the World Contest. The site for that event, scheduled for 2022, will be determined by a vote among ASI members in late 2019.

A dedicated website as well as Instagram and Twitter will also be announced soon.

Source: Association de la Sommellerie Internationale

For more information, please contact:

Liora Levi
Head of Media and Communication

Michèle Chantôme
Secretary General ASI
Director PR, Communication & Marketing

Georgios Kassianos
President Cyprus Sommelier Association

A Case of Questions with Kyriakos Kynigopoulos, Consultant, Burgundia Oenologie

2019-12-17T08:46:00.000+02:00

Originally from Greece, Kyriakos Kynigopoulous moved to France almost forty years ago where he has established himself as a world-class consultant for wineries in Burgundy and beyond.

First as head of SGS Oenlogie and then running his own company, Burgundia Oenologie, Kyriakos consults domaines throughout the world on how "to modernize their way of working and refine the style of their wines."

In his capacity as a consultant, Kyriakos has spent a myriad of years helping Cypriot wineries fine-tune their wines, combining "the rigor and objectivity of the researcher with a grain of philosophy applied to the most advanced concepts, while being constantly on the ground."

We recently had the chance to break bread and share some wine with Kyriakos as part of an event sponsored by Kyperounda Winery, so we thought it'd be wise to get his take on everything that's transpiring in The Rock's wine scene. À votre santé!

Why wine?

Wine and vines are my passion since my youth. My love for wine and vines is a result of my love for nature.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

The wine that first caught my attention in Greece was Rapsani 1979 when I was 20 years old and then in Burgundy, the one big wine that impressed me, was Musigny Grand Cru 1990, Comte De Vogue, when I was 33.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

All-time favorite wine is Montrachet for whites and Musigny for the reds.

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

My favorite wine-producing region is Burgundy. I live and work there for 37 years now and I was a part of the wine revolution.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

My favorite food-wine pairing is lobster with Pullingy Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

The most important thing that is missing from the Cyprus wine industry is a given value to the local varieties of wine like Xinisteri, Promara, Maratheftiko, Giannoudi... and also to produce wine in different "terroirs."

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

Cyprus wines already won the local market after 10 years of quality progress and now is the right time to export the wines abroad.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

My favorite part of my job is meeting different people in different countries all over the world and sharing with them the same love and care for vineyards and wines.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

My Five Year Plan is to discover new lands of wines and meet new people.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

My favorite wine personality is Pablo Alvarez from Vega Sicilia who succeeded to create a myth around his wines.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

An awkward situation that very often happens is when sommeliers are insisting on their opinion about my wine selection with a "class" about what is wine and vintage.

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

My all-time classic favorite island wine is Assyrtiko from Santorini and my favorite coffee is Kona from Hawaii, both volcanic!

You can follow Kyriakos on his website, Twitter or Instagram accounts.

A Personal History of Cyprus Beer

2019-10-20T17:27:00.000+03:00

Wannabe with Alesmith's IPA at Brewfellas

My first tryst with Cypriot beer was not unlike that first time a teenage boy has sex: short-lived, rudderless and as plain as a greenhouse cucumber in the dead of winter.

It was 2005 and I sat at Washington DC's iconic and now defunct beer tavern The Brickskeller, having just polished off a Belgian dubbel or tripel. I had been dating The Wife, PhD, for several months and—in what now rings like a premonitory alarm to my eventual move to The Rock—I chased my first tipple with a KEO, a Cypriot pilsener-styled lager and the island's favorite beer.

You must understand that, as a fresh-faced twenty-seven year old, my knowledge of the proper progression of beer consumption was limited to randomly alternating between pale ales—Sierra Nevada (still my favorite beer) and Bass—and Sam Adams Boston Lager with an occasional Chimay Blue thrown in to class shit up. Hence, my first impression of Cypriot beer was, uhm, watered down.

Cyprus can get as scorching hot as Emily Ratajkowksi in an animal print bikini. Or a topless Ryan Gosling eating a churro. So it makes perfect sense that locals and tourists alike would want a crisp, light beer that doesn't overwhelm the palate with intense flavors and a thick torso. Even for the hopsessed, this style of beer has its moments. During my first or second summer on The Rock, I spent one sunny afternoon at Zefkas (the good one) above Fig Tree Bay pounding innumerable large bottles of KEO with good friends and then stumbling to the sea—volleyball and buzz in tow—to spike, dig, set and serve the sunset away.

Self-Appointed King of Happy Times

For years, The Rock's beer market was pretty much limited to KEO, Leon (the island's first beer) and Denmark's Carslberg, the latter two brewed by the Photos Photiades Group. All three have similar flavor profiles: they are clear and light and refreshing and as harmless to the palate as a lukewarm boiled potato. Personally, I prefer KEO as it has a decent hoppiness to it, while Carlsberg, which is a far cry from being the best beer in the world, reminds me of the $5-for-a-6-pack Natty Light I used to consume as a penny-pinched college student. No, that's not a compliment. Then again, don't ever put me through a blind tasting of the three because it will just confirm that you shouldn't be reading this blog as a source of knowledge. Praise the Lord my writing ain't gospel truth.

Early on into my arrival to Cyprus almost fourteen years ago, a handful of microbreweries surfaced to mixed success. Declaring itself Cyprus' first microbrewery, Prime Microbrewery opened its doors in Sotira by Ayia Napa and offered the market six (decent-ish) beers—a Cyprus Pilsner, Pale Ale, Amber Ale, Golden Ale, Belgian Wit and Oatmeal Stout, with the Wit being my personal favorite.

Rumors had it that Prime's facilities were among the most technologically advanced in Europe, but every time I attempted to pay them a visit, they were either too busy or the phone rang unanswered for what seemed like the time it takes me to polish off a pint. Yes, eons according to my friends. Some time in 2017, Prime closed its doors, stopped production and broke my heart with nary a visit. Not all might be lost, however, as it seems Octo Microbrewery, a new project housed in Prime's former headquarters, has opened its doors, recently releasing a hoppy lager and an ultra-light session IPA. I had hoped to get invited to their official launch, but that has come and gone, so now I'm back to relying on my own creepy Latino charm to get my foot in the door.

Aphrodite's Rock Brewery in Tsada

After a protracted battle against bureaucracy, Aphrodite's Rock Brewery opened in 2009 just outside Tsada in Paphos, slowly building a steady following among British expats and tourists in the area. I don't make it out west often enough to visit, but whenever I'm on my way to Polis, there's an obligatory stop at Aphrodite's Rock to buy a six-pack and track its development. Last time I was there—six long years ago—I thought the beers were alright with my favorite ones being the Lian Shee Irish Red Ale and London Porter. However, in my old age I've discovered I have an issue with British real ales—I find them under-carbonated and, hence, soupy for my taste. Purists (and Brits), come at me. [Pulls up trousers, pounds sagging man boobs, raises fists and puffs.]

Furthermore, finding a large variety of beers at pubs or supermarkets ten years ago was not the easiest of tasks. My go-to bar upon arrival was Plato's, an architectural gem I truly believe should reconfigure itself as a gastro pub that matches a strong beer selection with high-end and creative bar food à la Granazi, which—side note and shout-out to chef David A. Lakes—serves the best bar food in Nicosia. Back when I was a regular patron, Plato's carried a large range of Belgian beers but hardly an IPA except for BrewDog's ubiquitous Punk IPA. Still, it was the only place where someone open to experimenting with beer could feel at home.

Who Would Have Thought? An IPA Fest on The Rock

Nicosia's (and to a certain extent the island's) beer scene ultimately changed for the better in 2010 with the opening of Brewfellas, which is without question The Rock's best ~~beer~~ bar and my favorite watering hole. It's even Little Miss Despot's preferred place to grab a bag of crisps and see daddy work his way through half-a-pint on Saturday afternoons and slowly say goodnight to his liver. Plus, I cannot wait to introduce Little Miss Miracle (yes, new addition to the Whine On The Rocks household!) to this budding family tradition. Good parenting they call it.

What Brewfellas managed to do (and still does) so wonderfully well is fill a huge gap in the market and cater to those of us who are brave enough to try something new and empty our bank accounts, per diems, trust funds and pocket change for whatever that new is. Dimitri Kemanes, Costas Siahinian and company are hopsessed and have a huge soft spot for American microbreweries. With Brewfellas' launch almost ten years ago came a slew of American, British and European IPAs, alongside Imperial Porters, Stouts, Saisons, Sours, Pale Ales, Unicorns (The Alchemist's Heady Topper was once on tap and I missed it) and the kitchen sink. They routinely organize unique private tastings and keep us on our toes by revealing on a weekly basis new beers to discover and creating unwanted marital strife. If only I had married a beer lover.

Oh, Brother, Where Art Thou?

With Brewfellas' emergence, what followed was a deluge. Let's not talk causality here as this post ain't meant to be your be-all and end-all history of Cypriot beer. New microbreweries have risen from the empty, rusty cans of KEO and Carlsberg to satisfy The Rock's increasingly sophisticated palate. Pivo Microbrewery, True Ale Cyprus Brewery, Barrel House's Mad Pan Handcrafted Projects in Larnaca, Radical Way Brewing, Humor Beer, Turkish Cypriot OO's Craft Brewing Co., and Hula Hops Brewing, to name a few, have started sourcing the island with beers that cater to both lager fans and those with actual taste buds. Of course, some of the beers produced still require fine tuning, but it's the spirit and push for bigger, better and bolder beers that counts, right? Having sampled beers from most of these breweries, I must say that Pivo, Humor and Hula Hops (now seemingly on hiatus) lead the way in the delivery of quality, consistency and taste.

Pivo Microbrewery's Standard Offerings

I think the best beers ever produced by Cypriot microbreweries are Hula Hops' Cyprus Citrus IPA and Pivo's Hoppy American (Easy) IPA and their 2017 limited release India Pale Lager, which would sit alongside Greece's Fix Dark (you have so many questions right now, don't you?) as a staple in my refrigerator as go-to beach beers.

So here's my personal challenge to all these new microbreweries out there—cook up an Imperial Stout aged in old Commandaria barrels and (hopefully) join the list above. Plus, I'll pay big bucks for a case, even more so if you let me name it and write the back label. [Editor's note: Homie is desperate for writing jobs and has a serious drinking problem.]

Furthermore, as a result of this growing interest in beer, during the past five years or so, a myriad of beer festivals have sprung like (both good and bad) weeds. Some are just excuses to bring Greek pop stars to regale the masses and sell them the usual suspect beers imported by The Rock's major distributors. I've attended some of these "beer" festivals in both Ayia Napa and Nicosia, and there wasn't a single beer I couldn't procure myself in a supermarket. Beer selection might have improved during the past few years, but when you have Sakis Rouvas—Greece's version of Justin Timberlake going through a mid-life crisis as a Dublin-based busker—serenading twenty thousand crazed fans, you know it's not about the beer.

The Full Pint 2018

Of all these festivals, one truly stands out for its genuineness, passion and overall good vibes—The Full Pint, the annual event organized by the Cyprus Homebrewers Association. What started off with four brave souls peddling their home-brews to curious bystanders at Faneromeni Square in Old Nicosia has turned into a major event for local beer drinkers. Dozens of home-brewers now congregate each spring in Nicosia's Municipal Gardens to showcase their latest concoctions. Yes, some beers are obviously better than others, but the overall event is still a whole lot more revelatory, true and fun than the competition. A shout-out to Yiannis from The Beer Lab, Nicosia's main shop for home-brewing equipment, for his Black Dino Stout, which will belatedly receive five Sparkling Spatulas for Best Brew at the 2019 The Full Pint.

Another interesting development has been the evolution of beer menus at established bars. Case in point, Moondog's Bar & Grill, which has undoubtedly set itself up as Nicosia's best sports pub. Upon opening, their beer selection was quite basic with nary an IPA in sight. However, if you visit Moondog's these days, their menu is chock-full of IPAs and other beers that weren't available before. They've slowly but steadily ramped up their selection in parallel with this growing interest in beer on The Rock. Plus, they have the best marketing ploy by any eatery or bar on The Rock—inviting their customers to be featured as models in their annual and thematically-diverse beer menu. If y'all ever need a bearded, voluptuous cross-dresser with a penchant for dark beers and reciting Neruda's love poems, I know a guy.

Cheers to the Future of Cyprus Beer!

So things are looking up for The Rock's beer scene. Palates are evolving, more beer lovers are joining the ranks of the producers, a myriad of beer-themed events continue to sprout like Cascade hops bines in the Pacific Northwest. While there will always be a space in our hearts (and sultry dad bods) for a pint of KEO, the future of beer in The Rock lies elsewhere. Time for the Church of Cyprus to step up its game and bless us with a holy IPA and for that other brewery to stop pretending it brews the best beer in the world.

What's your #CyprusBeerStory?

A Case of Question with Georgios Hadjistylianou, Head Sommelier, Amara Hotel

2019-08-11T13:03:00.000+03:00

Fat Fish has always been one of my favorite taverns in Limassol, particularly because of its meticulously sourced and thought-out wine list.

This shouldn't come as a surprise considering the grizzled gentleman behind the restaurant's undying success.

Georgios Hadjistylianou, whose twenty-five year career as wine guru has stretched from New York City to Limassol with stops in Crete and Morgon in France, has been at the helm of Fat Fish since 2008. In 2017, he also opened Vinothiki, a small cava that purveys terroir-driven wines from some of his favorite producers and regions. Today, in addition to these aforementioned pursuits and often rocking his signature flat caps, he stars as the head sommelier for Amara, yet another five-star luxury hotel that opened in Limassol to regale the Russians.

We sat down with Georgios to get some insight into his life in wine and give him a shot at name-dropping more than an up-and-coming hip-hop artist looking for sponsorship opportunities and some spare change. Ka-ching!

Why wine?

Other than humans and animals, it's the only other "living thing." And not to mention, the best and most civilized conversations I've ever had was with wine.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

When in Birmingham at 20 years old, we had a wine tasting class at Birmingham College and it was myself with a friend who were responsible for cleaning up, but instead we went to a bar for a beer. Well, we never made it back on time. When we entered the classroom the next morning, the room smelled scrumptious; it's still to date one of the best smells I've ever experienced.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

Sorry, it can't be one as there are a few, around 10 to 20-plus. Like in 1999, the Bordeaux tasting of 1982s, 1983s and 1985s at the Windows on the World. Also, my last day in New York City, the 1962 sweet Riesling at Harry's Restaurant. And back in 1997, the first time I tasted Austrian wines. And so on...

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

That's not possible. Barolo, Barbaresco, Tuscany, Loire Valley whites & reds, Rias Baixas, Chablis, Beaujolais, Burgundy (though way too expensive these days) and, of course, Naoussa and Santorini.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

The one that's a slam dunk. [Editor's note: A 360 windmill à la Dominique, we hope.]

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

Sparkling wine and less manipulation on its wines.

Georgios & His Beloved Morgon

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

Getting more exciting with indigenous varieties.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Exploring wines, as well as offering people interesting and exciting wines.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

Since December 2016, after my time in France, I've decided not to work more than 8 or max 9 hours a day. I don't have a five-year plan. In early June 2019, I started working as the head sommelier at the newly opened Amara hotel in Limassol with plenty of great opportunities. Plans are good; however, I prefer taking things a day at a time!

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

It is not possible to pick one. I'll start from the Barolo rebels—the late Bartolo Mascarello, the late Giuseppe Citro Rinaldi, and the late Theobalto Cappelano. Then there's the late Serge Hochar in Lebanon, the late Haridimos Hatzidakis, the magician of Santorini, the Tatsis brothers in Goumenissa, Evriviades Sclavos in Cephalonia, Yianis Economou in Sitia, Crete, Josko Gravner & Stanko Radikon from Friuli, Laureano Serres & Juan Ramon Escoda & Carmen Sanhuja, Elena Panteleoni, Elisabetta Foradori. I feel like I'm forgetting some—Egon Muller, Donhhoff, Dr. Loosen, Joh. Jos. Prüm, Josef Leitz in Germany, Johanes Hirsch, Schloss Gobelsburg, Nikolaihof, Emerich Knoll. It can never be just one.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

Nothing really major.

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

As with the personalities, same here. I just cannot select one. 1959 Musar white, 1976 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese, 2001 Gravner Ribolla Gialla Anfora, 1992 Gravner Ribolla, 2000 Stanco Radikon Ribolla Gialla Collio Radikon, Salvo Foti, Roumier, Rouget. How can I select one wine? Sorry but that's not possible!

You can reach Georgios on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Vinothiki's website.

On Making A Grand Entrance

2019-07-22T18:42:00.000+03:00

Talk about making a grand entrance. Perched immediately above Omodos, The Rock's (unofficial?) wine capital, Oenou Yi - Ktima Vassiliades stands out like a bottle of La Tâche in a lineup of village blends.

Inaugurated in 2018, Oenou Yi, the brainchild of Limassol's Christodoulos G. Vassiliades, is undoubtedly the blockbuster of wineries in Cyprus. It's luxurious and shiny and hardly shy about using expensive marble, tall windows and mirrors to coat walls and cellar floors and everything else in between. From my description, you'd imagine a gaudy, over-the-top winery styled by a bejeweled Latin American nouveau riche like myself, but it's not. I think the place exudes class and sophistication without overstepping that boundary into tackiness.

The winery, which I believe has been designed as an events and recreation space, includes conference rooms, a small swimming pool, a forthcoming spa, a high-end restaurant (more on this later), a posh tasting room and nautical miles of cellar space. During our short tour, I was mesmerized by the amount of space reserved for oak barrels. Fikardos Fikardou of Fikardos Winery has joked with me in the past about building a squash court in his winery. However, in Oenou Yi's two cellar rooms—one for Commandaria, the other for dry wines—you could build two indoor tennis courts where Baghdatis fans could play Around the World, ideally downing shots of zivania at each crossover, and still have enough room to actually age liters upon liters of wine. Oenou Yi is also planning on building bedrooms or offering space for people to stay in Omodos. I must admit that it's not my preferred style of winery but there's plenty of room for this type of all-inclusive, wine-themed experience in the current Cypriot market.

And the wines they are currently producing show plenty of potential. Aikaterini-Evangelia Mylona, who trained in Spain, France, Argentina and New Zealand and is one of three females winemakers on the island, has worked on a pretty large portfolio of wines ranging from light whites made of Xynisteri to oaked Maratheftiko and Commandaria and everything else in between.

During the tasting, which takes places in their impeccably classy tasting room, Mikhail Vakhromov, who trained in hospitality management and leads the drinking component of the tour, garrulously guided me through my lineup of wines (and will definitely try to sell you a copy of Madeline Puckette's Wine Folly). Mikhail, who doesn't have a background in wine, has been learning on the job and does plenty to engage the customer and keep them interested in what is being tasted. Case in point, if you're visiting, make sure to ask Mikhail to show you how to properly taste zivania—you'll either fully understand the traditional Cypriot drink and all of its nuances or choke on the spirit as the vapors rush up your nostrils and stumble off your stool. Yes, I almost fell.

Personally speaking, my preferred tipples were the 2018 Playia White blend of Xynisteri, Malaga and Assyrtiko, which was a bit fuller and more complex (tropical!) than the 100% Xynisteri, and the 2017 Playia Cuvée Spéciale, which works well with The Rock's favorite charcoal-fueled hobby. A special mention is becoming of the 2016 Geroklima Maratheftiko, a heavy-hitting red that's been aged in new oak for two years. Yes, it's big and bold and woody but there's plenty of jammy fruit, well integrated tannins, and a rounded smoothness that would work wonders with a Stegosaurus-sized, marbled steak. It's definitely not my style of wine but I enjoyed it enough that I purchased a bottle and will let it sit for three to four years before revisiting.

Now the winery's restaurant, which is called Playia (slope in Greek), was a revelation. With a menu created by Andreas Andreou, the talented chef who put Skinny Fox on The Big Fig's (Nicosia for those of you late to the game) culinary map, the food is the best one can currently find in any winery on The Rock and probably the most gourmet meal anywhere up in the Cypriot mountains.

The menu has been carefully constructed, leaning towards Cypriot-inspired dishes using local ingredients and modern techniques. We kicked off the meal with a salad of baby leaves, crispy halloumi cheese, dried figs, grapes, roasted walnuts, raisins, sesame seeds, and a basil and grape syrup vinaigrette, which was bountiful, fresh and well-balanced, deftly walking the line between sweet and sour. This was followed by a pork loin braised with red wine and aromatic herbs, parsnip purée, coriander seeds, roasted mushrooms, and parsnip roots with a red wine sauce, and tagliatelle with prawns, tomato, basil, parsley, lemon zest, Parmesan cheese, cream and lobster bisque sauce. Both dishes were perfectly executed, packed with flavor and refined in presentation. Plus, I really appreciated the pricing policy on the wines consumed onsite; a glass of wine runs for about three to four Euros and bottles are sold without the typical restaurant markup.

So the next time you're up in Omodos, swing by and pay them a visit. Have a taste of their wines, revel in Playia's well-designed and executed menu, take a dip in their pool. Make a day out of it and live the life of a Latino nouveau riche who's stumbled upon a wealth of wealth here on The Rock. You'll only be doing it with a hell of a lot more class.

A Case of Questions with Annabelle McVine, Wine Scribble

2019-04-16T18:15:00.000+03:00

Since releasing her first Cypriot video blog almost a year ago, Annabelle McVine, the cheeky, fun-loving dame behind Wine Scribble, has taken The Rock by storm.

For the past eleven months, Annabelle has been on a tear, interviewing Cypriot oenologists, organizing funky food-and-wine pairings and reporting from the trenches at a myriad of wine-themed events.

With her trademark fiery red bob, matching lipstick and bubbly personality, Annabelle has endeared herself to The Rock's wine world, becoming a timely breath of fresh air to all of our vinous festivities.

As one of Wine Scribble's biggest fans, we thought we'd reach out to have her tell us her story.

Why wine?

I tend to get bored easily, but wine never bores me. Wine always has something to say that is worth listening to. With wine, especially European wine, and the boutique wineries, there is an explosion of permutations and iterations, every country, region, winemaker, blend, label and vintage is different. And just when you think you are getting the hang of it, then the weather changes and the next year tastes different to the year before.

Wine is also an interest that allows me to practice my writing, filming, photography and research skills. All of these activities I greatly enjoy.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

I was in Plovdiv in Bulgaria on an academic EU project in my early 20s, and I was served an aromatic white that made me sit up and pay attention. I asked the waiter what it was and he told me the variety was called Traminer. Until that point, my position had been always that white wine was not worth bothering with. That bottle awakened me to the fact that white wines can be nuanced, complex and aromatic. To be fair to non-red wines, the only white wine that I had tasted until this point was the usual Cypriot-wedding house-glass of ‘weiß-plonk’.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

Oh, now you are making this difficult. Do I strike you as the kind of girl who would restrict herself to a single option? Have you seen my shoe collection? [Editor's Note: We love shoes too.]

Annabelle McVine & Unidentified Local Fanboy

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

If we are talking about my fantasy wine region holiday that I have not yet taken, then it would probably be something Tuscany based. Have you seen the pictures of Tuscany on Instagram? It looks amazing.

However, my favourite wine producing region that I regularly visit and stick my stilettos into its earth: Krasochoria in Limassol. When you speak to the locals and learn more about the history of the Krasochoria, you soon realise that they don't just love wine, they eat, drink, sleep wine. It is an integral part of their existence, and I have a lot of respect for such unadulterated passion.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

Cypriot Yiannoudi and a medium rare rib-eye steak, with all the trimmings. It is poetry.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

Sophisticated online communications, both between the wine industry members and with the wine consumers. To clean this statement up, I mean no disrespect to our wonderful winemakers, and it is not their job to be internet communications experts, but what Cyprus is missing is a clear brand identity as a wine destination. We have wonderful tastes, aromas, growing regions, indigenous grape varieties, so many things that appeal to a modern millennial market in search of a wine adventure - but no one is saying this out loud to the market segment that can travel and discover Cyprus and Cyprus wine.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

At this stage, I feel it would be more salient to paraphrase from my recent interview with Sophocles Vlassides, who told me that about ten years ago the winemakers started to cultivate the indigenous local grapes such as Yiannoudi and Morokanella. It takes a long time to convert an experiment in this space to a mass market product that is consistent and enjoyable for everyone. So, what do I see for the Cyprus wine industry in the coming years? It would be more products based upon the local indigenous grapes, more sophisticated cultivation of these grapes, which can be difficult to work with in the vineyard, and more market awareness for the consumer making a choice at the point of sale.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Getting to know the Mediterranean wine lovers around me, the viticulturalists, oenologists, wine merchants, chefs, sommeliers, and people like you and I, who have taken to the Internet to talk about our favourite subject.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your business?

Communication is my passion. That’s why I enjoy writing, photography and making videos.

I want to keep growing as a visual story-teller and a film-maker. I want to spend the next few years focused on growing the WineScribble Instagram account and the WineScribble YouTube channel. There are so many great stories yet to be told about the people involved in Cyprus and Mediterranean wines.

However, I realise that in the process I am learning an incredible amount about communication on the Internet. It would be great to run seminars to disseminate everything I have learned about visual storytelling and engaging a large audience. I think I have worked out a secret formula here. In 9 months my Instagram is approaching 14k followers and my YouTube channel has almost 14k video views. I think this is pretty unusual with such a niche topic and without the help of any professional marketing agency. This is just me, a camera, a good eye for a picture/story and a good understanding of how today’s Internet works. I think there are people who would love to know how to replicate this success to pursue their own dreams, passions and business start-ups, and I would love to help them make these aspirations a reality.

Annabelle McVine & Orestis Tsiakkas Tasting Mavro Mouklos

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

I have a lot of respect for the older generation who moved into the wine business without formal education in wine-making, leaving behind regular careers for a dream. Without them, the current generation of oenologists and viticulturalists wouldn’t have had wineries to return to. They are the foundational stones of our wine industry. I haven’t met everyone that I want to yet, but three of these gentlemen have been very welcoming to me and my project so far. I should name and thank Costas Tsiakkas (Tsiakkas Winery), Andreas Kyriakides (Vouni Panayia Winery), and Charis Athinodorou (Ktima Gerolemo) for respecting this project and making themselves available to chat, answer questions and support me.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

I cannot even start to make a list of all of the things that have gone wrong during filming. It is epic. I am the proud owner of a deeply traumatised goldfish that experienced a profound existential moment when a sparkling wine cork launched itself and landed in the fishbowl. If you look closely during the video called ‘The Sparkling Wine Adventure’ you can see the epic B-Roll segment of me unwrapping the foil, releasing the cage, but never actually removing the cork. It removed itself. At speed.

Also, for the purposes of the video titled ‘Vineyard Terroir’ I scripted myself to fail at making a Merlot Chocolate Cake, but in fact I failed at failing. The cake baked fully before the staged power-cut, and to make it look like a flop I had to behead a perfectly good cake and turn it into brownies. My mother has never let me forget the waste of cake.

I am not known for my dexterity, in fact quite the opposite. I did spend a few months annihilating corks as I tried to master the art of using the Waiter’s Friend corkscrew. It is a running joke in my office that I can talk about the wine, I just can’t open the wine.

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

You know what? I am not going to name a producer, that would be quite unfair to everyone else that scores 9.9 on my list instead of 10. I shall let you know that I do love the Maratheftiko and Yiannoudi wines that I am tasting right now. I love what these wines taste like right now, and I love what these wines will grow up to be in the future. Here’s to the local volcanic terroir! Cheers!

You can reach Annabelle on YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter or her website.

An (Almost) Case of Questions with Sotiris Neophytides, Sommelier, Parklane Luxury Collection Resort & Spa

2019-03-30T14:01:00.000+02:00

Sommeliers on The Rock have started to gain plenty of local and international recognition.

One of these young up-and-comers is Sotiris Neophytides, who currently plies his vinous trade as a Somm at Limassol's swanky Parklane Luxury Resort & Spa.
 
Sotiris, who has won the Cypriot title for Best Young Sommelier three years running (2017 to 2019), is also the second Cypriot (after Andreas Kyprianou of Vinocultura in Nicosia) to receive the Advanced Sommelier Certificate by the Court of Master Sommeliers following his first crack at the exam.
 
As usual, we sat down with Sotiris to pick his brain on all-things wine!

Why wine?

As part of our culture and religion, Cyprus has a long history of winemaking with its most famous wine being Commandaria. Moreover, in each glass of wine there is magic, especially when you try it blind and you have to discover all of its aromas and flavors in order to identify its region, something that we call terroir. This is why I fell in love with wine.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

The first wine that captured my attention was a wine that comes from Greece. It is called Museum and Domaine Gerovasiliou in Epanomi near Thessaloniki makes it. This wine had a powerful structure on the palate with a very long finish that has remained in my memory up until today. I was 24 years old when I tried it.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

My favorite bottle of wine that I would like to enjoy is La Tâche by Domaine de la Romanée Conti in Burgundy, France. [Editor’s Note: Wouldn’t we all?]

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

One of my favorite wine regions is Piedmont in northern Italy, especially Barolo. The reason I chose this region is that Barolos have both the character and temperament. They are high in acid and their tannins make the wines powerful but elegant at the same time.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I would pair a beautiful Wagyu beef with an Australian Shiraz. Shiraz has the structure and tannins to match the richness of the beef and its weight.

With Master Sommeliers Demetri Mensard (L) & Ronan Sayburn (R)

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

Promotion and positioning in the market at an international level. We do promote Cypriot wine but in very small steps.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

Cypriot wines and winemaking have developed a lot during the last five-to-ten years. Therefore, I expect more experimentation from local winemakers. Moreover, Cypriot winemakers will look for more elegant styles of wines, and vines will be planted at higher altitudes. Seeing the industry’s huge improvement, new wineries will be built and, therefore, there will be greater competition between the wineries aiming to achieve a higher quality each year.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

The diversity of the guests’ needs with certain food and wine pairings and of course their satisfaction at the end of the service are my favorite parts of the job. Basically, keeping the guests happy and providing them with a memorable experience through my wine list.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

My favorite wine personality is Arvid Rosengren, who won the award for Best Sommelier in the World in 2016. He shows how genuine and elegant we need to be towards our guests.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

At the beginning of my career as a sommelier I went to a table to open a bottle of Prosecco. The cork was so tight that I could not open it. At a certain point, as I was holding it, it popped out and I had a wonderful bath of Prosecco.

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

This is a beautiful question for which I could write in many of my favorite wines. Each winemaker has a different philosophy and winemaking style. Therefore, some of my favourite producers, I would say, are Tsiakkas, Vlassides, Argyrides, Zambartas, Vassiliades Expressions, Kyperounda, Ezousa and many more.

Fill Up My Cava - Part II

2019-01-03T19:39:00.001+02:00

There are few moments in life when you can confidently say that you are in the presence of greatness. Most of mine, of course, have involved a bottle of wine, molecular gastronomy, live music, a piece of art or a novel that render me speechless and teary-eyed, a fat boy before an overflowing chocolate fountain.

I recently had one of these encounters, an impressive wine tasting hosted by Nicosia's Vinocultura at Aelia Wellness Retreat in Tseri that confirmed Nebbiolo as one of the few chosen varieties to fill up my cava.

Kyprianou, Altare, Karakasis & Barolo

Elio Altare, the legendary Barolo winemaker and grizzled veteran of more than fifty vintages, schlepped his way to The Rock where he guided us through a tasting of eleven of his world-class wines. In his broken English, Elio, a grandfatherly figure with a warm voice and boundless dreams, narrated his story with Nebbiolo and wine-making in northern Italy, assisted by Vinocultura's Andreas Kyprianou and Greece's Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis.

Elio tells us that everything changed during a 1976 visit to Burgundy alongside Angelo Gaja, arguably the one man responsible for putting Piedmont on the wine map. Historically speaking, Barolos were born as sweet, oxidized wines that were difficult to drink and originally stored on the winery's roof. Precarious conditions didn't help either. Cellars were nary clean and tough to sanitize; Elio recalls potable water only arriving at his family winery in 1962. In Burgundy, after sampling wines that were that much more expensive and different to those being produced in his northern Italian home, Elio shifted gears and following Gaja's lead brought modern wine-making techniques into the region.

At first, everyone opposed him. His parents believed he was soiling Barolo's traditions. Elio, however, stood his ground. "If a son does the same job as the father, the economy takes a step back. The son must do better, that's progress," he tells us. "There's no success without mistakes, without experiments. If you're ambitious, you look for competition with the best."

The Big Boys of the Tasting

With Burgundy clearly on his mind, Elio introduced shorter maceration times and the use of rotary fermenters, which in turn churned out wines with more color, greater stability and nobler tannins. Nowadays, he uses no pesticides (out of respect for his clients), does not filter his wines, and adopts indigenous yeast to maintain the identity of the harvest, winemaker and terroir.

Elio speaks about wine the same way you or I might speak of the love of our lives. It's that type of love where passion, compromise, disagreement, comfort and doubt come together to create something unique and endless. Elio tells us, "I don't drink a label, I don't drink a name. Wine is a great symphony, it is my job to give it harmony and balance. I make wines for me."

Ultimately, there is this comforting humility that shines through with each one of his words and actions. "I have not created anything, I have just added to the experience of vignerons in Burgundy and California," he affirms.

Here are my thoughts on these wines, which clearly depict what I refer to as the decay of wine tasting notes, i.e., the amount of wine consumed is inversely related to the volume and quality of notes taken.

Amount of Wine Consumed ∝ 1/Volume & Quality of Tasting Notes

This is a scientifically proven formula so don't @ me.

2017 Elio Altare Dolcetto d'Alba - Vibrant red fruit, cherries, licorice, mint and some meatiness in this fruit-forward wine. Tannins are really present but the red forest fruit shines through. Quite long and with an intact purity of fruit.

Dolcetto d'Alba & Friends

2017 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba - Dark cherries, floral elements, notes of pepper. Silky, sweet tannins with cherries that sing. Not as bright as the Dolcetto d'Alba but a lot fuller. This is a wine I am convinced both The Wife Ph.D., and I could enjoy without argument considering her unhealthy obsession with full-bodied Shiraz.

2011 Elio Altare Larigi Langhe DOC - This was absolutely lovely. A remarkable nose with notes of chocolate, overripe yet bright fruit, potpourri and herbal components, spice, hints of oak. I found the big and heavy nose on this wine to be rather deceptive. Once tasted, it's sprightly, full of life, marked by the type of lightness that I fall head over heels for with a wonderful spicy finish and great length.

2011 Elio Altare La Villa Langhe DOC - Plenty of sweet spice, meaty, an appealing stink and rawness, some chocolate. Very smooth and clean and approachable after seven years.

2011 Elio Altare Giàrborina Langhe Rosso DOC - Funky, meaty, caramel and sweet spice. Tannins are very firm, very present. Plenty of structure to age but not quite approachable at the moment in my opinion.

2014 Elio Altare Barolo DOCG - I love these noses! Stinky, raw, peppery and meaty. Plenty of sour cherries and a great structure.

The Barolo Lineup

2012 Elio Altare Barolo DOCG - A lot more fruit, floral almost, tannins have softened and wine is now a lot rounder and chewier.

2013 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina DOCG - Soy sauce, meaty with a beautiful body marked by sweet cherries and firm tannins.

2008 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina DOCG - More tertiary aromas, plenty of leather, a lot cleaner and elegant. An all-around balanced wine.

2012 Elio Altare Barolo Cerretta DOCG - Sweet spice, tobacco, meaty, smoky, loaded with cherries, a raspberry finish. Elegant as fuck (I actually wrote this on my notepad), clean, round, integrated tannins. Best wine of the night. By far.

2007 Elio Altare Barolo Cerretta DOCG - Bright fruit, floral, meaty, leathery with a finish marked by tar. Quite mineral with a great structure and tannins that are still alive and kicking. A lot less concentrated than the 2012.

For Part I, click HERE.

For an old blog post on the third variety (region) in my Triumvirate of Taste, click HERE.

Fill Up My Cava - Part I

2018-12-23T08:31:00.001+02:00

Eight months ago we moved into a new home and my only desire (besides a massive kitchen where I could pretend to be an insultingly poor man's version of Virgilio Martínez) was to own a wine cellar.

After countless discussions with local experts, The Wife Ph.D., and I settled for a series of wine fridges, pseudo-cavas that are better prepared to withstand the hellish heat The Rock bears down on our rotting souls come June (or mid-February if you're a Scandinavian retiree).

Obviously, with a great cellar comes great responsibility—to stack it to the brim with bottles upon bottles upon more bottles of one's favorite wines.

If you've been following my journey through wine, I've settled on three red varieties that will outshine all others in what I expect to be the rather temperamental build-up of my collection.

18-Year Old Grand Reserve Anyone?

Back in 2017, courtesy of Photos Photiades Distributors Ltd and Boutari Winery in Greece, I was invited to a mini-vertical tasting of Xinomavro, Greece's most acclaimed red variety that has drawn comparisons to Italy's Nebbiolo and has become since my landing on The Rock twelve long years ago one of my all-time favorite varieties. [Editor's Note: This article is a year late because the hirsute chubster behind this blog is a world-class slacker.]

Drinkers beware, though. Xinomavro (literally meaning 'Sour Black') can be a hard swill to swallow. When young, it can be super tannic, highly acidic and seemingly rough or rustic. These traits, however, have afforded Xinomavro ample opportunity to age gracefully for decades. In its best variations, it can be beautifully perfumed, reminiscent of a field of flowers and damp earth cohabiting with tomatoes drying on their vines, fresh black olive paste and a sour cherry orchard. It's truly awe-inspiring.

The tasting, which was held at Nicosia's most sophisticated food-and-wine haunt, Pralina Experience, was led by Boutari's oenologist Vasilis Georgiou. He started off by emphasizing that the winery's heart lies in Naoussa, Northern Greece's PDO where Xinomavro is queen, and that this variety is his favorite of all. What draws him to this difficult variety? Its versatility and dynamism as a grape—it can produce sparklers, light and heavy rosés, fresh reds and fuller reds destined for aging.

Aging Gracefully

Furthermore, Vasilis said, Xinomavro in Naoussa are terroir-driven wines. Each sub-region within Naoussa delivers a unique wine. For instance, two separate vineyards with a mere 150 meters difference in altitude result in different wines.

When it comes to the actual wine-making, a good discussion started on old school versus new school methods. Vasilis said that new school methods might be used to open the market to Xinomavro but ultimately what people want is the old school, more traditional and rustic style. Georgios Hadjistylianou, who runs the excellent Fat Fish restaurant in Limassol, opined that Naoussa leans more towards Burgundy in style and Vasilis concurred; Boutari's intention is to mimic an international wine but give it a local touch.

Before boring you further, here are some of the wines we tasted and, yes, dear readers, many of these will one day fill up my cava.

2014 Boutari Sparkling Rosé - An experimental bubbly made with Xinomavro. Plenty of red fruit, raspberry, brioche and yeasty notes on the nose. The palate was rather delicate with raspberries and strawberries up front and a toasted-bread-like middle.

2016 Xinomavro Rosé - Another experimental bottle, this one is meant to be a food-friendly rosé. According to Vasilis, the original plan was to make a fashionable, lighter Provence-style rosé, but instead they made this one, which is much darker and has enough weight to be accompanied by food. Bright red fruit, caramel, some herbal touches, really creamy. As Maria Massoura of The Wander Notes succinctly put: "Strawberry panna cotta."

A Few of the Wines Sampled

2015 Boutari Naoussa - Vasilis says that Boutari's entry-level Naoussa serves as the barometer to the vintage's success. It is the winery's generic Xinomavro with grapes picked from all of its different regions. The 2015 was quite woody—it spends twelve months in oak barrels—and marked by aromas of red cherries and strawberries and a hint of black olives, characteristic of the variety. This wine was just okay; very short, clean and simple with a nose that outperformed its palate.

2003 Boutari Naoussa - This wine clearly showed Xinomavro's amazing aging potential. On the nose, plenty of violets, mushrooms, dried red fruit and leather. Once tasted, there was plenty of red fruit still present, many herbal components and a wonderful wet earth and dustiness to it on the finish with a decent acidity for its teenage years.

2012 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa - According to Vasilis, the Grand Reserve Naoussa, a great value-for-money bottling, is a wine meant to be aged and it is not released for bad vintages. Furthermore, it spends two years in oak barrels and two additional years aging in the bottle and it's generally made from grapes coming from three specific vineyards—Marina, Trilofos and Polla Nera. This specific vintage comes from a vineyard called Trilofos and is marked by red forest fruit, floral elements and a lovely minty touch. Tannins are very chewy as this wine is still in its infant stage.

2011 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa - If I read my notes correctly, this was one of my favorite wines of the tasting. An explosion of truffles on the nose, leather, sweet spice and dark cherries working as one. Plenty of strawberries and mint with black olive pattée on the finish. It has great acidity, firm tannins, a really solid structure that will allow it to go for decades. If my limited knowledge of Naoussa vintages is not betraying me, 2011 was supposedly one of the great ones. By the way, this wine screams to be matched with food.

Xinomavro Screams for Food

1999 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa - Another excellent example of this variety's aging prowess. Secondary and tertiary notes are now jumping with joy. Butterscotch toffee, coffee, smoke, leather, black pepper on the nose. The palate paired dehydrated strawberries with plenty of wet earth along many of these other elements.

2007 Boutari Legacy Single Vineyard - This wine is made from a single vineyard (Trilofos) only on exceptional years. If the grapes are not allotted to the Legacy, they are then used to make the Grand Reserve Naoussa. Tomato leaf, black olives, thyme and a wonderful meatiness to this wine. On the palate, plenty of ripe red fruit and a heavy dose of vanilla, courtesy of 12 months in French oak barrels.

[Editor's Note: If any of you readers feels the need to contribute a wine or two to his cava, please contact us to arrange for delivery. I think all he deserves is a good kick in the ass.]

Savatiano Risin'

2018-12-16T11:29:00.000+02:00

Savatiano Chillin'

It's survey time here at Whine On The Rocks.

How many of you have heard of Savatiano?

How many of you associate this variety with retsina, Greece's piny, Aquafresh-like wine that tastes like diluted toilet bowl cleaner when poorly made? [Editor's Note: The author is not being judgemental.]

No? Yes? Maybe? Boy, I've got news for you.

A few weeks ago, thanks to an event organized by Vassos Eliades Ltd., at Pralina Experience in Nicosia, I sat at the table with the big boys of Cyprus wine for a comprehensive tasting of Papagiannakos Winery's mad-scientist experimentation with all-things Savatiano.

Vassilis Papagiannakos, who now runs the winery, walked us through his story with Savatiano, a once disfavored variety with a four thousand year history that everyone solely associated with retsina. According to Vassilis, once the winery started experimenting with cold fermentation, Savatiano gave out a range of fruity aromas in the vein of Assyrtiko and Roditis, and its potential as a dry, non-resinated wine began to take shape. Furthermore, the terroir, said Vassilis, if treated like Burgundy and other great wine-making areas of the world, could lead to the production of excellent wines that could age for decades.

Vassilis Papagiannakos (right) Talks Savatiano

Case in point, during a 2014 visit by Wine & Spirits journalist Tara Q. Thomas, Vassilis organized a vertical tasting (2007 to 2014) of his Savatiano Old Vines with Thomas boldly asking for even older vintages. After sampling the 1998 and 2000 Savatiano, she deemed these wines world-class. About the 1998, Thomas writes, "The wine is a rich, golden color and smells of petrol, like old assyrtiko. Caramel flavors gild the fresh almond notes, the acidity mild yet still vibrant."

Vassilis Papagiannakos then led us through a tasting of the five Savatiano wines currently in his portfolio, and the variety's diversity, quality and uniqueness was put on display for all. Here are one amateur's tasting notes.

2017 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano Old Vines - Light, fresh nose with hints of green apples, herbaceous notes, lightly peppery and almost soy-like. On the palate, nutty, mature citrus fruits, apples and pears with solid acidity. Very tough to beat at the price point, which is about 6 to 7 Euros in The Rock's major supermarkets.

Savatiano Revealed

2016 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano Vientzi Single Vineyard - This wine comes from Vassilis Papagiannakos' father's favourite sixty-year-old vineyard called Vientzi. Very nutty and herbal nose marked predominantly by hazelnuts. Once tasted, the hazelnuts persisted and combined with notes of apples, pears and citrus with a lovely loukoumi-like sweetness running through the mid-palate. Really good length.

2016 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano Natural - This was the strangest yet most alluring wine of the tasting. I really couldn't place its nose and picked up notes of mushrooms, green beans, nuts and white pepper. Really strange. One of the Cypriot sommeliers in attendance said it reminded him on salt-and-vinegar crisps. On the palate, though, this wine sang: smooth body with clean lines, bursting with touches of apple and pears. My second favorite of the soiree.

Veal Tenderloin with 2017 Savatiano Bareli

2014 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano Ktima - Here Savatiano starts showing off its aging potential as secondary aromas develop. A very nutty, almond-like nose with hints of smoke and even gaminess. Plenty of orange peel, bitter oranges, lemon zest, apple and pears with a lovely nutty finish. Good length and medium-plus acidity.

2017 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano Bareli (Barrel Aged) - This was my favorite wine but I can definitely see how it's not for all; its unctuousness might be a bit over the top for some. A beautiful potpourri-like nose, very floral, very fragrant. Once sipped, there's a rush of sweet, overripe pears and baked apples, candied orange peel and loads of sweet spice. Keep in mind this wine is fermented and aged for five months in oak barrels and undergoes no battonage. This wine definitely needs a few years to soften up.

To New Beginnings

2018-12-08T18:09:00.003+02:00

Marcos Zambartas Leading the Way

My first visit to Zambartas Wineries happened maybe eight years ago. We were met by the late Akis Zambartas, who had made the winery's top floor his home. After a quick tour of the winery's small facilities two floors down, Akis, garrulous as ever, sat us in his outdoor dining room and shared a wealth of information and stories over multiple glasses of his red wines. It was a welcoming, cheerful, generous visit, the type you experience when someone happily opens the doors to his home and you stumble out a while later, tipsy and with a big grin stamped across your face.

Following a summer press trip organized by Vassos Eliades Ltd., Zambartas Wineries' new distributor on The Rock, I can say that this heartfelt hospitality remains as strong as ever.

The New Tasting Room

Yes, things have changed. The main reason for our visit was to experience Zambartas Wineries' extensive renovation of its top floor, which has now become a classy and modern tasting room with a fully stocked kitchen that can cater to parties and larger groups of visitors. Clean lines, some dark wood, beautiful iron racks for the bottles on sale, and a predominantly black-and-white collage of photos rendering tribute to Akis and the family tradition have transformed the space. Additionally, the mezzanine, which served as the main tasting room, will become the center stage for aging the winery's yet-to-be-released Commandaria.

Part of the trip also included a tour of some of the winery's nearby vineyards. We drove past KEO's Ktima Mallia, Oinou Yi's lavish mountaintop winery in Omodos and Ktima Gerolemo towards Agios Nikolaos and into a higher terroir populated by rows and rows of vineyards. Unfortunately, it rained donkeys and moufflons that day, so we couldn't walk the fields and get a chance to experience wine-making straight from its source.

Fancy Anything?

My favorite part of the visit was Marcos Zambartas telling us about Margelina, a vineyard that harks back to 1921 and which he proudly purchased on Bazaraki.com (the Cypriot equivalent of eBay). Marcos believes Margelina will offer not the best but the truest representation of Cypriot wine. Christodoulos, the winery's vigneron, called this plot a living museum of Cypriot wine as it offers a glimpse into the history of Cypriot wine. You can see how vineyards were planted in the past, one atop each other, crowded, nary a row. Different varieties—Mavro, Xynisteri, Maratheftiko and more—stand side by side, some of them unrecognizable to the trained eye. So much so that Marcos had to ship some of Margelina's grapes abroad for further review.

Of course, we tasted a few wines too as part of the visit. And here's always where I start to blabber like a hyper infant. Besides the usual suspects, we sampled a few surprises.

The 2017 Single Vineyard Xynisteri (now in screw cap!) is a limited production bottle made with small-bunch grapes and 40 percent of it going through wild yeast fermentation. The vineyard is located at 950 meters above sea level in Mandria and is 29 years old. I have no doubt in my mind that Zambartas' Single Vineyard Xynisteri is the benchmark for Cypriot (indigenous) white wines. Quite mineral with notes of citrus, orange peel, stone fruits and white flowers and hints of mountain herbs and sweet vanilla spice. It's smooth, lean, clean and fresh with great length and good acidity. Plus, it will definitely improve after a couple years.

Boom Goes the Dynamite!

The 2016 Single Vineyard Shiraz, a new addition to the wine roster and also in screw cap, has a limited production of about 600 bottles and spends 15 months in oak barrels with about 80 percent of it in new ones. If you enjoy meaty wines, this one's for you. It's lountza-y, spicy, smoky and loaded with notes of black fruit and berries—it screams steak in the same way I scream for a dalliance with a bottle of DRC. [Editor's note: This will happen one day; never stop believing.]

Finally, we tasted the 2011 Zambartas Commandaria, a 65-35 percent Mavro-Xynisteri blend that should be out in the markets in 2021. This was utterly delicious. A clean nose with touches of dried apricots, figs, dates, some butterscotch, brown sugar and just a hint of smoke or meatiness. On the palate, great acidity, weighty tannins and some remarkable notes of white chocolate, raisins and brioche.

Towards the end of the visit, Marleen, the winery's marketing guru and Marcos' wife, tells me one of their hopes is that Akis is proud of how they've transformed the space he once called home. From all of my visits to Zambartas Wineries, there's no other answer but yes.

For a post on my second or third visit to Zambartas Wineries, click HERE.

A Case of Questions with Mike Veseth, Wine Economist

2018-01-18T19:33:00.003+02:00

Last year, prior to the annual Cyprus Wine Competition (my invitation was probably stolen by a stray cat), the Ministry of Agriculture's Viticultural Section organized a local wine industry conference with Mike Veseth, a professor emeritus of International Political Economy at the University of Puget Sound, as one of its guests of honour. Professor Veseth, who's an authority on the global wine economy and has written several books on vinous matters, spent several days on The Rock where he tasted our best, spoke to the winemakers and delivered plenty of insightful thoughts on the state of Cyprus' wine sector. Goes without saying, the blog reached out and here are his answers to our Case of Questions!

Why wine?

Mike Veseth (MV): My new book, Around the World in Eighty Wines: Exploring Wine One Country at a Time, was released in November 2017 and the central question is “Why wine?” Why has wine fascinated us for all these centuries? Why do winemakers go to such extremes to produce wine? Why has wine and the traditions that surround it endured? I think I have found the answer, but I don’t want to spoil my book’s ending. You’ll have to read Around the World in Eighty Wines to find out!

How did you get started writing about wine and the wine business?

MV: I wrote about this in my 2011 book, Wine Wars: The Curse of the Blue Nun, the Miracle of Two Buck Chuck, and the Revenge of the Terroirists. We were visiting Napa Valley years ago and talking with a winemaker. When he learned I was an Economics Professor he became quite intense and asked many questions because what happened to the economy affected his ability to make and sell the best wines. He taught me that wine is a business as well as an art and a science and that the insights that economists may offer can be important. My 2005 book, Globaloney: Unraveling the Myths of Globalization, explored a number of case studies of how global markets evolve and adapt. One of the chapters examined the global wine market and there was so much interest that I decided to specialize in wine economics.

Your blog is called The Wine Economist. What do you write about and who are your readers?

MV: Most professors write academic papers that are read by other professors and no one else. I decided that I wanted to reach a broader audience that includes wine industry and trade readers as well as academics and consumers, too. I started The Wine Economist as a way to work out my thoughts about wine market issues in public where I can get feedback from my global wine readership. It has been very successful both in terms of the ideas it has helped generate and in the public reception. The Wine Economist won the 2015 Gourmand International award for best wine blog. Who knew that so many people would want to read about wine business!

You have written four books on wine. What are they about?

MV: Wine Wars: The Curse of the Blue Nun, the Miracle of Two Buck Chuck, and the Revenge of the Terroirists (2011) examined wine market dynamics as the interaction of three strong forces: globalization, commodification, and “the revenge of the terroirists,” which is the thirst for authenticity in wine and in life more generally. Each of these forces has grown stronger since I wrote Wine Wars so this analysis remains relevant and continues to shape my thinking about wine. ExtremeWine: Searching the World for the Best, the Worst, the Outrageously Cheap, the Insanely Overpriced, and the Undiscovered (2013) tries to understand where wine is going by looking at the extremes of the market where change is most pronounced. Money, Taste, and Wine: It’s Complicated (2015) examined the many ways that money affects wine – what is produced and where, what we buy and even how good (or bad) the wine tastes to us. This book received the 2016 Gourmand International award for best wine writing.

Now, as I said earlier, Around the World in Eighty Wines has been recently released. Taking inspiration from Jules Verne’s famous novel, it circles the globe seeking great wines, great wine stories, and insights into why wine is such an enduring part of life.

What brought you to Cyprus?

MV: I was invited by the Cyprus Tourism Organization. Dr. Maria Socratous heard me speak at the First United Nations World Tourism Organization Wine Tourism conference in Tbilisi, Georgia last year and arranged for my wife Sue and I to visit Cyprus to learn about its wine and wine tourism possibilities. While in Paphos, I also spoke at a Cyprus wine industry conference. It was a great experience – I wish I could have visited before I finished Around the World in Eighty Wines because I tasted some wines that I could have included in my book. Next time!

What was your favourite wine-related moment during your visit to Cyprus?

MV: There were many fine moments, but the one I like best was a lunch with journalists, judges from the Cyprus Wine Competition, and members of the Kyriakides family at their fabulous Vouni Panayia Winery. Beautiful view, wonderful food that Mrs. Kyriakides prepared for us, great wine of course, and lively conversation. It was the complete wine experience and a great memory of our short visit to Cyprus.

Anyone up for lunch at Vouni Panayia? Next weekend work?

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

MV: I wrote about this question on The Wine Economist. Cyprus is making the same sort of transition today that New Zealand made in the 1980s and 1990s, when it began to focus intensely on rising quality and broader markets. This is the right strategy for today’s global market, so I am very optimistic about the future of Cypriot wine.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

MV: Cyprus has all the important elements needed to move up to the next level in the world of wine – stunning vineyards, talented winemakers, distinctive indigenous grape varieties. I would like to see the domestic wine market develop a greater focus on quality Cypriot wines (as opposed to less expensive imports) and a rising international profile. This will take teamwork, which is something I talked about at the Cyprus wine industry conference in Paphos. I think everyone knows that this is an area that can be improved and I was glad to see so many people willing to help build a stronger Team Cyprus Wine to achieve these goals.

Should Cyprus focus on Commandaria or is dry wine a better route moving forward?

MV: Why does it have to be either/or? Commandaria tells the story of Cyprus’s great wine history, which will open doors. But the market for wines of this type is relatively small and highly competitive. The contemporary dry wines, especially Xynisteri, could appeal to a broader audience. They are both part of the story of Cypriot wine today. Why not feature them both and use them to tantalize consumers about the range of possibilities that Cyprus and its wines can offer?

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

MV: Our friends think it must be the great food and fine wine we are served, but the best part is that we get to meet such fascinating people! We met many wonderful people during our short stay in Cyprus.

What is your favorite wine?

MV: People often ask about my favorite wine. While it is true that I am particularly fond of Pinot Noir and Riesling because of their almost infinite variations, it is more generally true that the wines I like best are the ones that tell a good story, especially if the story involves friends.

Of course, your favorite island (and Cyprus) wine?

MV: There is a chapter in my 2013 book Extreme Wine called “Desert Island Wines.” What wine would you choose as your only beverage if you were going to be stranded on a desert island for several months? The chapter is inspired by the BBC Radio 4 program Desert Island Discs. We tasted many wonderful wines during our visit to Cyprus (and I was able to write about a few of them on The Wine Economist). All the wines would be welcome on a desert island, but I guess my desert island wine from Cyprus would have to be Commandaria. What a treat!

You can reach Mike Veseth on his website, Linkedin, Facebook and Twitter. He penned the four blog posts on Cyprus wines listed below:

When is a Wine Tourist Not a Wine Tourist? Lessons from Cyprus

The Next New Zealand? Reflections on Cyprus Wine Industry in Transition

Look Through the Rainbow: Cyprus Wine’s History of Boom and Bust
Back to the Future? First Impressions of Wine and Wine Tourism in Cyprus

Off The Rock: Ktima Pirgakis

2017-12-22T21:14:00.001+02:00

Upon exiting E65 on our drive north from Kalamata to Agiorgitiko's home in the Peloponnese, the small town of Nemea—its main road like that of any sleepy village seemingly decades removed from a major metropolis—slumbered away.

There is nothing particularly remarkable about the town that lends its name to one of Greece's major wine regions; a few wineries announced by brown signs sit along the side of the road, old men and women lounge on stoops drinking coffee, a mishmash of architectural designs rise above the sidewalks.

View of Asprokabos from Ktima Pirgakis

Once you leave Nemea, however, and trudge along narrow potholed roads to Asprokabos, an up-and-coming sub-region just south of the Corinth, that ingrained idea one has of what wine country should look like reveals itself with each turn. Grapevines—perfectly lined up in a domino rally waiting for father time to tap over—extend uninterrupted towards the sea with nary a sign of concrete to impede their march.

We arrived at Ktima Pirgakis to find Konstantinos Pirgakis, his charming wife and their two daughters waiting for us. Upon arrival we notice that the winery, which sits at 815 meters above sea level, rewards its visitors with an awe-inspiring view of the vineyard-covered hills of Asprokabos.

For those of you not in the know, Asprokabos, which stands between 650 and 850 meters above the Mediterranean, is a distinct Greek terroir equipped to make phenomenal wines. According to Yiannis Karakasis, one of two Greek Masters of Wine (MW), this specific region of Nemea "is one of the coolest mesoclimates in the country" where "there is [a] big diurnal temperature range of about 15 ºC in the winter and even 20 ºC during summertime, which is crucial for the preservation of acidity and for building tannin structure." Considering its relative coolness, says Karakasis, this remote region, which is at present inhabited by only a handful of wineries, is capable of producing "a more exotic version of Nemea, more Old World in style perhaps."

Konstantinos Pirgakis

Obviously, one of those five is Konstantinos Pirgakis' growing operation, which, at the time of our visit in July, was undergoing a significant expansion, one that should facilitate the winery's hosting of wine tourists like The Wife, Ph.D., Little Miss Despot and myself. Rooms for rent, a kitchen for culinary events, and two separate wings for red and white wines are in the works and should be completed, if my memory serves me well, by 2018. Still, among the bricks, bags of cement, naked rooms and rows of grapevines swaying at a distance, Konstantinos, in a mix of broken English and harmonious Greek, played the role of host to perfection.

Today, he told us, Ktima Pirgakis consists of twelve hectares of land. For years, Konstantinos' father owned and cultivated vineyards in his native village with some plantings now only a decade removed from being a half-century old. Upon starting the winery in 2008 and inheriting his father's vineyards, Konstantinos initially dedicated his efforts at producing and selling Agiorgitiko. He quickly realized, however, that with the market saturated by these jammy, velvety wines, it was a better bet to diversify a bit and introduce grape varieties alien to Nemea. Perfectly in line with his penchant for experimentation, Konstantinos planted the unique—by Greek standards—Tannat and Petit Verdot to grow alongside other international and local varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Malagouzia, Assytriko and the region's ubiquitous Agiorgitiko.

The Big, the Bold, the Beautiful

Konstantinos believes that ninety percent of wine quality comes from the grapes and holds Asprokambos' grape growers in high esteem. He praised the sub-region's growers for being trustworthy, organized and professional, churning out high-quality grapes on a yearly basis in a terroir that requires no irrigation. As proof, Konstantinos compared the vineyards in Asprokabos to those down in central Nemea: as evinced from our drive up the hills, the first are symmetrical and evenly laid out, while the latter take on a more haphazard and disorganized pattern. Obviously, Konstantinos recognizes that the ten percent left to the human hand remains important since a loose screw, wrong turn or weak wrist can turn perfect grapes into high-end vinegar.

In addition to the work done by the local growers and winemakers, Asprokabos' unique microclimate helps the sub-region's grapes preserve their acidity, freshness and overall structure. Thanks to its cooler temperatures, harvest happens in September, often several weeks later than what's normal for the rest of Nemea. This sub-region is so much cooler, Pirgakis mentioned, that temperatures during the winter can drop to as low as -15 ºC.

Where the Magic Happens

Konstantinos' wines are not for the faint of heart; they are big, bold and powerful yet retain plenty of sophistication. His dad thought he was crazy making such massive wines. However, Konstantinos, who's somewhat obsessed with experimentation, meaty bodies and high alcohol content, repeatedly told us he makes what he loves to drink.

Several barrel samples of his latest vintages attest to this preference. For example, his Chardonnay, which sits in barrels for two years but still showcases plenty of delicious tropical fruit, is outright opulent and unctuous, an acquired taste for those who might prefer their Chardonnays more Emily Ratajkowski/Ryan Gosling than Kim Kardashian/Gerard Butler. Likewise, the Pirgakis Petit Verdot—we sampled the 2014 and 2015—had robust tannins, were earthy and meaty, and, above all, felt like dabbing your tongue on a black pepper mound. And that's a wonderful thing for a pseudo wine blogger obsessed with hot sauce.

Here are some of the tasting's other highlights:

The 2014 815 alt. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend is Pirgakis' flagship wine. Konstantinos told us that this bottle, which retails at about 18 Euros, is in very high demand in places like Santorini, where restaurants sell it to clients in the know for up to 120 Euros. A pretty nose that touches on bright red fruit like raspberries and red currants, some pepper, coffee, dark chocolate and dustiness, and a nice hint of meatiness to it. It's well rounded, silky and refined with well-integrated tannins, great acidity and plenty of freshness. Started off a bit closed (and spicy) but opened up after an hour sitting in our glasses. Personally, I'd recommend decanting this big boy.

The 2016 Ktima Pirgakis Malagouzia is marked by an intense aroma of stone fruits, canned peaches and cream, Turkish delight, orange peel and lemon blossom. To the palate, it has a nice mineral backbone, a sour, almost peppery finish, some salinity, and a lovely hint of apricot and peaches that runs unencumbered through the mid-palate.

Ktima Pirgakis' Lineup

The 2016 Late Harvest Agiorgitiko is highlighted by plenty of light red fruit on the nose, some raspberries and candied strawberries, brown sugar and a lively acidity that makes it enjoyable as a simple yet somewhat enticing dessert wine. I would even dare drinking it with spicy food.

The 2014 Ktima Pirgakis Assyrtiko, which is aged sur lie, has a compelling, slightly oxidized nose marked by sweet spice, orange peel, and a pleasant nutty component. To the tongue, it has a nice breadiness combined with notes of apricots, quince, baked pears and honeysuckle. An interesting mainland Assyrtiko that might have benefited from greater acidity. Then again, maybe I'm dreaming of Santorini.

The 2014 Spilia Agiorgitiko was a revelation. I'm not a big fan of Agiorgitiko as I sometimes find wines made from this variety to be too jammy or like dipping my face in a vat full of cooked red fruit and cloves. This version, however, drank remarkably well, showing a finesse I rarely see from other Agiorgitiko wines. Dark cherries, blackberries, licorice, chocolate, smoke and plenty of meatiness dominate the nose, while the palate is marked by sour cherries, blackberries, a lovely herbal finish and great acidity that screams for this bottling to be consumed with food.

You can get in touch with Konstantinos Pirgakis via his website, Facebook (personal profile & winery page) and Instagram. His wines are usually available on The Rock at Cava Oinon Pnevmata in Nicosia.

A Case of Questions with Wine Explorers

2017-11-16T17:08:00.004+02:00

During the past couple of years, more and more wine bloggers have started showing up on The Rock. I'm not sure whether the Cyprus Tourism Organisation is doing a better job promoting the Cypriot wine industry or these bloggers are stumbling upon bottles of Cypriot wine that have piqued their interest. In any case, the more the merrier as long as they leave some wine for the locals.

One of the latest blogger's The Rock has welcomed is Jean-Baptiste Ancelot, a wine professional who runs Wine Explorers, an ambitious project that seeks to "highlight the richness of the world’s vineyards and reveal unknown and very original great growths and hidden treasures from far away winegrowing regions." So far, Wine Explorers has spent three years on the road, having visited 92 countries, 250 wine regions and 1500 vineyards and sampled more than 15,000 wines. Cheers to that!

Cyprus finally made in onto the list and, following their visit during the summer of 2017, Wine Explorers had plenty to say about our humble island.

As is generally the case, Whine On The Rocks reached out to exchange a word or two with our visitors.

Why wine?

Wine Explorers (WE): Good question. This is a mystery to me. I will always remember the day the light suddenly clicked in my eyes when tasting wine. I was 22, living in my hometown in the north of France (where no vines grow - ha-ha!) Invited to a live jazz show in a very small wine bar, I fell in love with the special atmosphere of the moment: the wine we enjoyed on this evening (I forget which labels) was the link between people from many horizons and that amazed me. Coming back home late in the night, I literally searched “wine jobs“ on the Internet: I wanted to know more about it and see if I could apply for something. But the list of jobs in wine is infinite! And I get lost. So I decided to apply for wine education in Bordeaux (not very original but super efficient) and then did a Masters degree and an MBA in wine business. It was so interesting! At the time, I did my internships in Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York in order to open my mind to some of the most important wine business places of the world. But I wanted more. My dream was discovering the wine world through my eyes. So I researched for six years and found out that the “real” wine world in the 21st century was made of (almost) 92 wine producing countries and decided that the only way to better understand my passion was to visit all of them. This how the Wine Explorers’ project started: a four-year exploration of the wine planet with a unique question in mind: What if the great wine terroirs had not all been discovered yet? Today, Wine Explorers is the first and only global wine inventory ever made in the history of wine, and we are very happy to share our discoveries each day.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

WE: As kids, we were not allowed to drink, even a drop. I had to wait until I turned fourteen in order to have my first drops of wines. It was Christmas time and my mother served us her traditional and incomparable foie gras, pouring in my glass some Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives. I still remember the syrupy taste of wine in my mouth. Memorable.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

WE: Such a difficult question. Just for the Wine Explorers’ project, we have already tasted more than 3,200 wines. How could I pick one – ha-ha! I recently discovered in Thailand a cuvée made of Durif (Petite Syrah) from GranMonte estate. This was a shock to me: I was in an extreme climate region of the world, where it is possible to harvest twice a year and the wine was so delicate, dense, precise, full of energy and delicious red fruits. I instantly loved it. Proof that with technique, knowledge, hard work and the best quality grapes, it is possible to make (very) good wines in unexpected parts of the world!

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

WE: Again, difficult question – ha-ha! I have to name a few, with your permission, as I loved them equally and for different reasons. The Valle of Guadalupe in Mexico for its super dry wine production area, full of life and energy. The Okanagan Valley in Canada for its wild and lovely wine scene. Or Dalmatia in Croatia for its diversity in terms of autochthone grape varieties. And there are so many more!

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

WE: Food-and-wine pairing is a very personal subject. Depending on the moment, the people with whom you are (girlfriend, family, business, etc.,) the place, the weather, changes everything. The best match at the end of the day will always be the one you like, even if not conventional. Also, what is conventional? But this is another debate. Today is summer time, we are enjoying an octopus carpaccio and I deeply love the sur-lies Xarel-lo from Penedès that I’m drinking with it.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

WE: Nothing! Cyprus wine history is 5,000 years old. The island is beautiful with a unique climate and topography, talented winemakers and a delicious local cuisine that goes great with its wines. Look at halloumi: with a glass of Cyprus white wine, it is a little moment of paradise. You also have many super interesting indigenous varieties like Xynisteri, Promara and Morokanella (white) or Maratheftiko and Yiannoudi (red), for example. And, above all, you have Commandaria, this unique and delicious amber-coloured sweet dessert wine made on the foothills of the Troödos mountains, which is the world's oldest named wine still in production. What else? This is what I call a precious and invaluable heritage.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

WE: To focus on what makes Cypriot wines so special and unique, as mentioned above. What's important nowadays, in a world producing more wine than is consumed and where the competition is harder than ever (good quality wines can be made everywhere), is to market “what makes you different/unique from the rest of the world,” therefore creating a strong identity. It shouldn’t be difficult to look at the potential Cyprus has in its hands.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

WE: Every day is a new day! I get up every morning with the same stars in my eyes and a unique question in mind: what’s going to happen today? And the more I learn, the more I realise I don’t know anything about the wine world. It is infinite. It can be affraying. I prefer saying to myself that it creates its own beauty. Wine has something magical.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your business?

WE: At the moment, we are halfway through the Wine Explorers’ project with 52 countries explored in 2.5 years of travels. (Cyprus was n°50 a few weeks ago!) It should end in October 2018. Then, many projects are planned, which is also very exciting! The “after“ project will result in books, documentaries, the creation of wine bars, an online website with information, videos and the possibility of enjoying wine bottles we discovered. Consulting and conferences are also a big focus in order to share and exchange information about the wine world. Our first important conference will be next year during the Masters of Wine’s Symposium in Spain where I’ll be a speaker. And there are many other ideas; travelling opens your mind all the time!

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

WE: The people behind the wine are usually my best friends and I respect them a lot. I don’t know if I could be capable of making a great wine one day. I have the easy job: travelling and tasting. The winemakers, the viticulturists, the workers in the vineyards, these are the real “kings“ to me, if I may say it like that. A person like Jean-Claude Berrouet is a good example to me and I admire him a lot: someone talented, discrete, with more knowledge than many people, but always very humble, curious, kind and with a smile on his lips. A mentor to me.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

WE: Waiting three days in front of the gates of one of the two Ethiopian wineries was a moment as strange as stressful. After two days of travels in the middle of nowhere, we were so happy to finally arrive at Rift Valley winery. And we didn’t know why it was so complicated to get in. In fact, people were just checking our records and reading everything we already had published in order to see who and how we were. Finally, we were invited to come inside and received the red carpet treatment. One of my favorite memories.

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

WE: Two (small) islands are coming to mind right now. And both deserve to be visited at least once in your life if you are a wine lover: Waiheke Island, near Auckland (New Zealand), and Korčula in Croatia. But there are so many more!

You can contact Wine Explorers via their Website, Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.

An (Almost) Case of Questions with Christos Vassiliades, Vassiliades Expressions Winery

2017-05-22T19:37:00.002+03:00

Spearheaded by the older guard, the Cypriot wine scene's transformation during the past decade has led to the appearance of new players who have rapidly established themselves and contributed their own creative touches to The Rock's wine.

One of these young 'uns is Christos Vassiliades, mastermind behind Vassiliades Expressions Winery in Chandria. I had the good fortune of paying him a visit on a frigid night back in February and left impressed by the quality of his dry Xynisteri, Sauvignon Blanc and dessert wine made with botrytized Xyn. Besides producing the only (I think) single varietal Cabernet Franc in Cyprus (one I haven't had the chance of sampling), what left me in awe of Christos' gun-ho attitude is that he had the cojones to plant that fickle damsel known as Pinot Noir at a very high altitude in the dear hope that it pans out. Here, Christos talks to us about his passions, plans and personal favourites.

Why wine?

Christos Vassiliades (CV): For me, wine is a cultural symbol and a sign of progress. It forms the path that connects tradition and avant-garde innovation. Wine is also a timeless delectation, the result of a constant flirtation between the earth and the vineyard. Wine cultivation is the interface, which creates mythical stories, traditions and legends.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

CV: The first wine that captured my attention and is always on my mind because it reminds me of my childhood and my family’s tradition is my grandmother’s wine. She’s both my tutor and inspiration. She has been a winegrower working with traditional urns, and the pleasant scent of her basement during the fermentation period is the most indelible memory of my life.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

CV: My all-time favourite bottle of wine is the Antonin Rodet Bourgogne Pinot Noir. An exceptional Pinot Noir produced by an important winegrower in Burgundy. It’s an amazingly balanced objet d’art with the essential elements of elegance of a Pinot Noir. I am grateful because I have the opportunity to not only taste it but also procure it in Cyprus.

Favourite wine-producing region? Why?

CV: My favourite wine-producing region is Sonoma County in California. A polymorphic region, both geologically and climatically, that helps it produce wines with special characteristics: a huge variety of wines in different styles and ideal for every occasion. It is actually quite impressive the way this region produces wines of the highest quality such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Zinfandel.

Your favourite food-and-wine pairing?

CV: If I take into account the variety available in the international culinary and wine scene, there are innumerable ‘pairings’ and, by extension, answers to your question. So I would prefer stating the Cypriot variety called Maratheftiko, which perfectly matches beef liver on the grill or even better on the barbeque. I would not omit to mention the combination of our winery’s dessert wine “HW,”a late harvest botrytized Xynisteri that makes a perfect match with every single traditional Cypriot dessert from fruity spoon sweets to syrupy ones.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

CV: Personally, I am convinced that if local winemakers had the same approach towards issues like our understanding, our cultivation, the vinification and the better promotion of indigenous varieties, even the forgotten ones, it would be a huge step forward for the quality of our wine production at a national level. As a result, Cypriot wines would be better promoted and, as a consequence, they would be treated better abroad.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

CV: Lately, in Cyprus, interest in the wine industry has increasingly developed, and this is very promising for the future of the local industry. Despite the progress made, there´s still a long way to go to reach our objectives, which is no other than to create a strong vinous education on the island. For a country with such winemaking tradition and historical background, it is almost obligatory for us to get to know wine better and in a less superficial way. We will never achieve our aim if customers, consumers and professionals won’t pay the attention required.

Cyprus’s wine industry improves day by day. It is crucial for rising winemakers to have a plan and a philosophy in order to contribute to and facilitate the resurrection of the Cypriot vineyard. Exporting wine means exporting culture. Therefore, wine is not just a common product of alcoholic consumption but a piece of art that involves vision, knowledge, passion and aesthetics. For a country like Cyprus, because of the limited range of wines, improving the current situation is very difficult and requires so much effort from the wine industry’s professionals.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

CV: The most enjoyable time of the year is the harvest period. It is the moment you realise that all of your hard work during the year finally pays off, and you come face to face with both the past and the future. That feeling is indescribable. You finally ‘decode,’ smell and taste your own brainchild, a creation you can experience with all of your senses.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career/business?

CV: The philosophy that encloses the establishment of our business is very clear and simple. Our winery ‘Ekfraseis’ attempts to take advantage of the great geological and morphological conditions of the area as best as possible. The Pitsilia area’s aforementioned conditions and especially the Madari mountain where our winery is primarily located give us the ability to successfully cultivate our indigenous, international and Greek varieties such as Mavro, Maratheftiko, Xynisteri, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Assyrtiko, and expand the local oenophile public’s choices. The future plan for the business is to keep up the hard work and one day expand the amount of the production based on the capacity of the vineyard, but I prefer taking one step at a time.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

CV: My favourite wine personality is Dr. Richard Smart, the Australian viticulturist whose aid has provided a real breakthrough in numerous aspects of modern viticulture at an international level. He is the creator and the inspirer of many modern trellis systems and scientifically proven ways of growth management and quality improvement of the crop.

Of course, your all-time favourite island wine?

CV: In a Mediterranean island like Cyprus, with high temperatures throughout the year and an extended summer period, I would strongly recommend white and rosé wines with a light and fruity flavour. They can easily replace summer cocktails that are often consumed during the summer. I wouldn’t say no to a light red wine, even if it’s mainly imported to Cyprus because, as we all know, the variety of local red wines is much more intense that the ones imported, but there is always room for exceptions to the rule.

You can reach Christos via Facebook and Instagram.

A Case of Questions with Exotic Wine Travel

2017-03-09T07:51:00.000+02:00

Exotic Wine Travel is the brainchild of Matthew Horkey and Charine Tan, two authors, speakers, marketers, travellers and wine lovers who left Singapore two years ago in search of good wine and interesting stories to tell. Following an unexpected meeting with a representative of the Cyprus Tourism Organisation in Tbilisi, Georgia, Matthew and Charine landed on The Rock and visited more than twenty wineries and bars as part of a wine itinerary set up by Cyprus Sommelier Association's George Kassianos. So far, they have written about their first impressions of our island, a cheat sheet on Cyprus wines, and a glowing review of the work being done by the Kyriakides boys at Vouni Panayia Winery. Since us here at the blog are a nosy bunch, we got in touch and had them join our distinguished "Case of Questions" family. ¡Salud!

Why wine?

Exotic Wine Travel (EWT): Wine is a wondrous port of entry into various topics like sociology, philosophy, geography, history, and science. As full-time travelers, wine makes us feel at home and connects us to people wherever we go, because wine lovers from all over the world speak the same language. Wine is like a steroid in communication and friendship. Meet a wine lover and the next moment, you'll be spending the night with his or her family and friends.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

Charine Tan (CT): My first sip of wine was at an indecently young age. I believe it was a Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Port, or 10 Year Old. But the one that really captured my heart was a red Burgundy. I had no clue about the producer, appellation, or region. It was my 18th birthday and I was treated to dinner at a French fine-dining restaurant in Singapore.

Matthew Horkey (MH): The first time I tasted wine that was distinctly different was a house red wine in Lucca, Italy. I was a broke graduate student, backpacking across Europe with some friends. We ordered a liter of house red wine that was completely different from the supermarket plonk I was drinking in America. As I drank it, there was an "ah hah" moment where I finally understood that wine could taste good and have fine nuances to it.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

CT: Château d'Yquem 1986. It's not about the sensory merits per se; that wine showed me a new realm of possibilities for wine. I was never partial to sweet wine, so it was a surprise that I ended up loving that wine.

MH: Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2002 (red). I love Syrah but this wine had so much leather, earthy, and meaty nuances to it that were brand new to me. It blew my mind that Syrah could taste like that. It was actually a present for Charine's birthday but I kept returning to her glass, sniffing away in wonder.

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

EWT: This took a bit of debating to get to a consensus. It'll be Piedmont. We spent two weeks in Piedmont in June 2015. We were just starting our long-term travel then and Piedmont was the first wine region where we engaged in some serious wine tourism activities. Piedmont has it all as a wine region—the views, people, food, wine, culture, entertainment, and to a decent extent the infrastructure.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

EWT: We are very experimental with wine, food, and actually pretty much everything. So there's never a safe or default choice for us when it comes to pairing. But if we're put in charge of the food at a pairing session, we'd suggest a table full of different cheeses, bread, cold cuts, olive oil, nut oil, and dips.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

EWT: Just like most wine countries that are rebuilding their modern wine culture, Cyprus is still finding its brand identity and brand story. A geographical name and history are not enough to characterize and brand a wine country. Other salient points need to be considered. Cyprus needs to first identify the cues or attributes that are already strongly linked to the country: the legendary Commandaria sweet wine, the omnipresent Mount Olympus, the surprise of meze, the refreshing Xinisteri, the intense tasting reds made from old bush vines, etc. Then build the rest of the offerings upon that. The offerings will need to cover the entertainment, education, aesthetic, and participation aspects of wine tourism. A brand name is strengthened by a positive experience at every touch point—from the winery to the hotel, airport, and social media.

The increased international awareness and global demand for Cypriot wine will also offer wiggle room for wine producers to experiment with new styles of wine. Based on our conversations with a few winemakers, it seems like Cypriot wine producers are very reactive to what the local market demands and sometimes feel obliged to make wine in a certain way that they don't necessarily believe is the best step forward.

EWT Loved Vasilikon Winery's Agios Onoufrios as a Bargain Red

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

EWT: More focus on indigenous varieties and clonal selection to improve the quality of wine. More collaboration among producers and between the private and public sectors.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

EWT: The people we meet and the stories of their countries told to us in various narratives and through different lenses.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your business?

EWT: We've decided on this since the very beginning of Exotic Wine Travel. We want Exotic Wine Travel to be an indispensable resource for wine travelers in the same way as how Lonely Planet was to independent travelers. But maybe with a touch of "Eat Pray Love" sort of inspiration thrown into it.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

EWT: Karen MacNeil. Her style of wine writing is something that we hope to emulate. The Wine Bible does a wonderful job of taking the readers through the world of wine. It is informative and entertaining. There is a perfect balance between facts, wine recommendations, and humor to keep drinkers of all level engaged.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

MH: I'm so clumsy and knock over wine glasses all the time. Once I was at dinner with a group of friends. I got so excited and moved my hands so violently that I knocked over my glass and spilled red wine all over a guy's white dress shirt. It was the first time I met the guy and he was pretty upset (understandably so). And of course, I've spilled wine over Charine at tastings and events too.

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine?

EWT: The Vlassides Opus Artis 2011 was the best wine that we discovered during our two-week press trip in Cyprus.

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White on White

2017-03-07T08:55:00.001+02:00

Domaine Papagiannakos on Display

Greek wine has come a long way since those ignoble days when retsina, the pine-tinged beverage that reminds me of a freshly cleaned boy's toilet, defined the country's wine industry. During the past ten years, Greece's exciting work with a myriad of endemic varieties have left a conspicuous mark on global wine lovers' palates; demand for these wines is rapidly increasing and, unfortunately, prices are soon to follow with Paris Sigalas' earth-shattering whites, for instance, already asking fans to cough up an additional ten Euros per bottle. On average.

Besides Xinomavro, a red I would love Axe to bottle up as deodorant, two of my favourite Greek varieties are whites. Santorini's flagship Assyrtiko, of course, which breathes in the island's volcanic rock and brackish breeze and creates a wine that makes you lick your lips and pucker up. The second one is Malagousia, a dwindling variety that was rediscovered by Vangelis Gerovassiliou, and reminds me of the peaches, mango and cream body lotion The Wife, Ph.D., rubs on her tummy whenever she's trying to seduce me.

Vassilis Papagiannakos at A.G. Leventis

Besides these, however, I've recently re-discovered two other Greek whites that have further accentuated the country's unbridled potential as a world-class wine producer: Savatiano and Moschofilero.

During recent industry events in Nicosia, I had the privilege of tasting two of these varieties' incarnations and, while they do not belt out Marvin Gaye's Let's Get It On in the same way Assyrtiko and Malagousia do, they've done enough to tickle my fancy.

Savatiano was originally known as the main grape behind retsina, a status that unfortunately blemished its reputation as a variety capable of delivering bigger and better wines. However, thanks to the work of Domaine Papagiannakos just a stone's throw away from Athens' airport, Savatiano has gathered steam during the past two decades and started showing plenty of potential as a grape capable of shining on its lonesome. As mentioned in a 2014 article by Tara Q. Thomas in Wine & Spirits magazine, Vassilis Papagiannakos' "young savatianos have caused waves all over Greece for their fruitiness and clarity—characteristics not often associated with the variety." In an event hosted by importer Vassos Eliades Ltd., at the A.G. Leventis Gallery, Vassilis mentioned that this variety is his pride and joy, one that has been worked on for decades and has firmly put his winery on Greece's wine map. His 2015 rendition delivered as evinced by my review below.

2015 Boutari Oropedio Moschofilero

As for Moschofilero, I have always loved the versions put out by both Skouras and Tselepos. It came as a pleasant surprise, however, to enjoy Boutari Winery's latest experiment with the variety—the barrel-aged Oropedio from Mantineia—during a soiree organised at Caraffa Bastione by its importer Photos Photiades Group. I've always associated Moschofilero—with its pinkish hue, citrus undertones and oh-so-sweet spice—to a more subtle understudy to Gewürztraminer, and Boutari's latest experiment didn't change my mind. And before you get all uppity about my description for this variety, please take it as a compliment: Gewürztraminers are sometimes like a once pretty woman who's iced her face with one dollop too many of turquoise-toned makeup.

2015 Papagiannakos Savatiano - Vibrant aroma of orange peel, stone fruit, apples, white flowers and sweet spice. On the palate, there's plenty of apple, melon, some honeysuckle and beeswax, and (maybe, just maybe) a piney element, which could be my brain telling me we're edging closer and closer to retsina. Full-ish to the mouth with good length, quite waxy and a bitter finish, which can be confounding. 86/100.

2015 Boutari Oropedio Moschofilero - Somewhat tropical on the nose, reminiscent of pineapple doused in sweet spices and a touch of white flowers. The palate is dominated by notes of baked apples with cinnamon, some pear and a delicious citrus finish. Medium bodied, quite fruit forward yet short, and overall well received thanks to its loukoumi-like qualities. 87/100.