Places that made an impression:

• Kyoto: Kishin Kitchen Kyoto // Enko-ji Temple // Ginjo Ramen Kubota // Gion Komori // Tan // Nanaya Kyoto Sanjo

• Osaka: Takoriki // Ramen Hayato

. . .

BOOKSHOPS

It’s a nice travel ritual to visit local bookshops wherever one goes. Beyond the biggie (Books Kinokuniya), here are a few others that I like:

Epigram Bookshop: Formerly at the URA building, they have moved to a new location - to the Singapore Art Museum @ Tanjong Pagar Distripark. It’s a little out of the way, but I love this bookshop for stocking up on titles focused on Singapore (not necessarily just by Singapore authors, but as long as the subject relates to Singapore). It’s got a good selection for adults and kids and makes for a good stop to pick up a few books.

Library@Orchard: is an oasis in the middle of Orchard Road and a “design-focused public library”. Not your typical tourist spot, but well-worth a visit if you like books, or appreciates good design.

For the kids: A few other independent ones that I like are:

• Grassroots Books: stocks predominantly Chinese books but also has a small selection of English books. I love their selection for kids. Nice place to browse and have a coffee at the back of the bookshop.

• Littered with Books: This is just 5-min from Grassroots Books and has a wide variety of books spanned over two floors.

• Maha Yuyi: A Chinese bookstore for kids located at the Bras Basah complex. Small shop but superb selection.

• Hook on Books: Great customer service at this delightful Chinese bookstore for kids and it has a very nice art and craft section for the kids to tinkle with.

FOOD

The obsession is real. There’s so much to offer from cheap eats to fine dining, and here’s a few that’s top of mind.

Local - HAWKER fare (The real deal)

The best way to try local food, is to head to a hawker centre or a kopitiam, the heart and soul of Singapore’s heartland. Most of the places are non air-conditioned (hot and sometimes stuffy), fairly basic and sometimes chaotic but are great spots for getting an authentic feel of our local hawker culture and cuisine.

• Tiong Bahru Market: A good starting point and fairly central for a wide array of local food (just go for the ones with lots of people queuing up if you don’t know what to get.)

• Chomp Chomp Hawker Center: This is in the heartlands (Serangoon Gardens) so a bit out of the way unless you’re living in the hood and is best in the evening for the best BBQ stingray and excellent selection of local fare.

• Wanton Mee: Bei-Ing at Roxy Square

• Bak Chor Mee: The original Tai Wah at Crawford Street (even there there’s 2 stalls, go for the one near the drinks stall).

• Nasi Lemak: Uptown Nasi Lemak at Telok Ayer Street

• Prawn Mee: Beach Road Prawn Mee

• Chicken Rice: Any!

• Fish Curry: Ocean Curry at Amoy Street

• ION Food Opera: By far my favourite foodcourt in Singapore and it has aircon so a great spot to sample local hawker fare in a little more comfort :)

Local - restaurants

• Jumbo: For the chili crabs (I like the outlet at East Coast for the sea breeze and sea views).

• The Coconut Club: Serves up delicious nasi lemak and great chendol and other desserts.

• National Kitchen by Violet Oon and Candlenut: Delicious mouth-watering Peranakan dishes.

• Not a restaurant per se but over at Joo Chiat, One Kind House offers a cooking experience at their shophouse.

Japanese

Sushi: For higher-end sushi restaurants, there’s Oshino, Hashida and Tatsuya. Tomi Sushi on the other hand offers decent quality sushi that doesn’t burn a hole in the pocket. The Flying Squirrel is a sushi bar tucked away in a small street off Amoy Street.

Ramen: Most ramen places serve up a decent bowl of ramen. Check out Ramen Bar Suzuki, Ramen Keisuke, Ippudo, Afuri Ramen, Sanpoutei Ramen, Hokkaido Ramen Santouka, Uma Uma Ramen.

Grills / Sake Bars: Yazawa Yakiniku was excellent the last time I visited, pricey but great quality. Mobomoga at Robertson Quay is super fun!

All-round good Japanese food: Suju (Mandarin Gallery) has really good Japanese food with a focus on miso. Ishinomaki Grill & Sake for the great lunch deals. Kuro Maguro for the delicious salmon/tuna aburi rice bowls.

EVERYTHING ELSE

Dumplings: Ding Tai Fung. Consistently good quality and service. The dou miao and the chili vinegar wantons are excellent too.

Chinese: You won’t go wrong with any of these restaurants that has great quality Chinese food and nice settings: Imperial Treasure, Crystal Jade, Putien, Paradise Teochew, Lei Garden, Hua Ting.

Thai: Tamarind Hill & Jim Thompson: A bit on the higher price range but delicious Thai food. For a more affordable version check out Ah Loy Thai.

South Asian:

• Colombo at Boat Quay (I actually don't enjoy the Boat Quay stretch that much but this particular restaurant is situated right at the top of one of the shophouses on the 5th floor. To be honest, it’s mostly non-South Asians dining there so not sure if my Indian friends would agree but I like the food and the view/ambience is great!).

• Mustard at Little India.

• Kinara at Holland Village.

• Annalakshimi: Delicious Indian vegetarian meals and you pay what you think the meal is worth.

Meats/Grills

• Camp Kilo: It doesn’t exist anymore sadly but was one of my favourites - It’s so casual, always play good music, has delicious grilled meats (and seafood and vegetables), and some seriously good vibes. Look up Raw Kitchen Bar instead which seems to have taken over.

• Burnt Ends: ps. Very good looking venue at Dempsey at Keong Siak (and just learnt that they have a very decent bakery and charming alfresco space for mornings too).

BARS

Barely scratching the surface here and I’m so outdated here but here goes a few:

Every bar (and restaurant) in the Jigger & Pony Group: Great service, great cocktails and most importantly a great team behind the group.

Le Bon Funk: Great spot for an after-work/after-dinner drinks, and the open kitchen looks like it serves up pretty decent food options too. I love their branding and all their ceramic wares.

Wine RVLT: One of the OG’s natural wine bars in Singapore. I love the disco ball :)

Offtrack: I’ve not been but looks amazing!

CAFES / BAKERIES

The cafe scene is burgeoning. Again I’m out of touch here but theToo many to mention but here’s a few to start..

Punch, Glasshouse, Hvala (love this place for tea), Chye Seng Huat Hardware, Dutch Colony, Tiong Bahru Bakery, and just this trip I really enjoyed the coffee and pastries at Burnt Ends Bakery. Plus Pure Pandan along South Bridge Road (while not a cafe) has great pandan cakes….

PARKS & NATURE

All around the island you’ll find parks and green spaces, I love all of them. For something central,Singapore Botanical Gardens and Fort Canning Park are great. If you venture out a bit into the neighbourhoods - there’s East Coast Park, Labrador Park & the Southern Ridges, Hort Park, MacRitchie Reservoir, Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, the entire Bukit Timah Hill Nature Reserve area, Jurong Lake Garden and Tampines Eco Green.

CULTURE

Local Photographers: Get to see Singapore through the lens of our photographers. I like Aik Beng Chia, Mindy Tan, Darren Soh and Nguan.

Singapore City Gallery: I don’t know if many people know that in the URA (Urban Redevelopment Authority) building, there’s a few floors of really fantastic exhibits on Singapore, that showcases our transformation over the last 50 years. Definitely my top pick for anyone who is keen to learn a bit more about the city regardless of whether you’re a resident or just staying for a few days.

Singapore Tyler Print Institute (STPI): Nice workshops!

National Museum of Singapore: The grand dame. It is a beautiful building with permanent exhibits of Singapore heritage and history. I love looking up at the dome the moment you step in to the building :) It also links to Fort Canning Park on the 3rd floor, which makes for a nice side trip.

National Gallery: It's a gorgeous building, previously home to the Supreme Court. Very nicely restored and has a number of good restaurants and an awesome area just for the kids. ALL-TIME FAVOURITE.

Objectifs: If you enjoy photography and film, check this place out. They also have a store that sells books and films by local artists, and often holds exhibitions and talks/workshops.

Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall: This was the original home for the Singapore Symphony Orchestra before Esplanade and is my preferred venue (over Esplanade) for classical music concerts because it's just so much more intimate and the heritage building itself is a good reason to visit. You can get tickets for concerts that are held there via the Singapore Symphony Orchestra website.

The Projector: An independent cinema situated at Golden Mile Tower, don’t be fooled by the state of the building. Awesome place for people who enjoy a bit of your non-Hollywood blockbusters. Singapore needs more places like this.

NEIGHBOURHOODS

Favourite hoods to wander around for photowalks with historic architecture, good food and cafes: Joo Chiat/Katong area in the east, the entire Ann Siang/Amoy/Telok Ayer/Keong Siak area, Arab Street and its surroundings and Tiong Bahru.

LOCAL BRANDS

Many of the museums have shops that carry decent products that’d make nice souvenirs to bring home. Apart from that, here are a few of my favourite local brands:

MATTER: As of mid-2020, they’re on an indefinite hiatus but I’ve kept it here as it’s truly a brand well-built and clothes well-made and probably my favourite local brand. I like and appreciate their philosophy of being inspired by tradition, sourcing heritage prints and styles, and reinterpreting them for the modern nomad. 

MUDROCK Ceramics: Absolutely gorgeous looking hand-made homeware (they also supply to a number of restaurants/cafes). Great pottery courses to boot. Follow them on IG!

SUPERMAMA: Designed in Singapore, made in Japan. Beautiful ceramic homewares that often included symbols of Singapore. Flagship store is at Beach Road.

Anthony the Spice Maker: Excellent selection of Asian/Singapore spices helmed by Anthony himself and his daughter.

So, over to you, what’s your favourites?

Last updated: 19 Nov 2022 from Singapore.

Coriander over parsley. Vongole, fresh from the sea/ocean, cooked in white wine with lots of garlic (and a little butter) is one of my all-time favourite dishes. Almost everywhere else where I’ve tried it, it’s served with parsley but here in Portugal, it’s served with fresh coriander, and is a classic Portuguese dish (“Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato”). While coriander is widely used and available in Singapore (e.g. freshly steamed fish with ginger and whole dollop of coriander), it didn’t seem to be as popular here in Europe…till I visited Portugal where coriander trumps parsley. Verdict: Clams have never tasted so good.

Concept of time. When paying for some bathroom tiles at a Portuguese tile shop in Lisbon, the shop owner who was checking on shipping charges asked me: “Is this shipment urgent?” I said no, we don’t need it till end of the year. He sounded amused and commented that it’s so un-Portuguese because many of their (local) customers would come in and said that they needed it yesterday, a sentiment echoed again in the book “The Portuguese” on how there’s a tendency for them to leave things to the last minute.

Tiles: On the topic of tiles, you can’t visually miss it. Portuguese tiles (azulejos) are gorgeous, and in Lisbon, one can spot them almost everywhere - donning building facades, interiors, floors and walls. The owner of the tile shop mentioned above shared that many of the factories that manufactured these tiles have been shut down (for various reasons) and what they basically do is to buy, store and sell these discontinued lines of ceramic tiles as a way to preserve the heritage of these designs. This short film here has a bit more info on the history of this shop and the grandfather. Also, have you ever wondered if there’s any connection between the Portuguese tiles and the Peranakan tiles that’s so commonly found in Singapore and Malacca? 

Creme Brulee : Why are these so delicious in Lisbon? Love the tinge of lemongrass in one, and the tinge of ginger in the other. 

Green wine (Vinho Verde) is not green. It refers to wine that’s still relatively young, not aged, and is a delight to drink. Also, little did I know that the art of making Portuguese glassware dates back to centuries ago until I chanced upon a shop that’s filled to the brim with colourful, beautiful glassware. Don’t forget to bring a few back, they make great souvenirs that’s actually useful. 

The Age of Discovery: Not surprisingly, the local bookshops are gold mines for local narratives/books/photobooks. Learning about Portugal’s fascinating past made the trip way more interesting and put many things in context and stuff I couldn’t wrap my head around. That they had a major role in the slave trade. That more than 500 years ago, they were already sailing off the Atlantic and conquering new lands (in what conditions? what did they eat or drink?).

Being in a foreign land heightens your senses in every sense - hearing a different language, smelling different foods, seeing different things and a good reminder of #whywetravel. 10 days was barely enough to scratch the surface, but here’s a short list in case anyone finds it useful - definitely not a “best-of” kind of list nor is it exhaustive, but just a sample of places I enjoyed (or high on my list to visit next trip).

Shop

• Books: Livraria da Travessa (Lisbon) // It’s a Book (Lisbon - for children’s books) // Under the Cover (Lisbon) // Palavra de Viajante (Lisbon) // Indie not a bookshop (in Caiscais) // RG Livreiros (in Caiscais).

• Glassware: Deposito Marinha Grande (Lisbon). Very helpful staff who are skilled in wrapping up those precious glasses in small carton boxes for easy packing in luggages.

• Tiles: Cortico e Neto (Lisbon)

• Stuff for home: A Vida Portuguesa

See

• Museums: Museu Nacional do Azulejo (tiles), MAAT (art and design), Museu de Marinha (maritime)

• Neighbourhoods walks: Principle Real, Campo de Ourique (residential-ish), Alfama (touristy but historical)

Eat

• Restaurants: O Pescador (Caiscais), Sea Me (Lisbon), Estrela da Bica (Lisbon, had the best creme brule there), Jesus e Goes (delicious prawn curry)

• Bakery: Marquise (delicious bread), Manteigaria (egg tarts)

• Ice cream: Artisani Alvares Cabral

Where we are currently in Austria, we're surrounded by the alps. Spending time hiking in the mountains, for both the young and old, seems to be in the DNA of the people here.

But we'd be naive to think that the kids would embrace every single hike whole-heartedly from start to finish. Some hikes barely last for 30-min, and some last for a good 2-3 hours. There's usually a good mix of emotions from them throughout the hikes - ranging from enthusiasm when they spot a stream or some rocks to climb, to protests and meltdowns ("It's so BOOORING", "My legs have no more energy", "I'm so tired", "When are we thereee?") to feelings of accomplishment when they reached a small summit, or whatever end-point for the day.

The best hikes for kids around 4-6 years old seem to be those that offer a bit more variety. For example, small/short “secret pathways” for kids to explore, small bridges to cross, streams where kids can throw stones in or to find tadpoles, big rocks that kids can climb on, perhaps the possibility of spotting an animal or two (insects for sure), and the likes. These help to motivate them and see this more as an adventure in nature rather than a monotonous walk. It's also fun to watch how kids take delight in using their imagination to make their own 'tools' from twigs and branches, and being active discoverers of the surroundings. Whether it's a hike up a small hill, a walk in the woods or a neighbourhood park, it should be a fun and memorable shared experience for the whole family, not to mention it being a good physical workout.

In Austria, trails here in general are very well taken care of by the people using it, but there’s still the occasional plastic trash. eebee started bringing out a small trash bag on hikes these days to pick up rubbish and involved the kids in it. I thought that set a good example on how we can take it upon ourselves to protect the environment in small ways. It was also a good opportunity to start conversations around topics like plastic pollution with kids, and for them to be aware of the fragility of nature and the environment.

Nature's a great teacher and the outdoors' a great adventure playground and classroom. It's only natural that we want to protect what we love. So if we want kids to grow up caring for the environment, that has to start from a place of love, and a sense of wonder and appreciation for all that nature has to give.

. . .

In Singapore too, there are many beautiful trails and parks, and people organising activities for kids to get oudoors. Here’s a few of my favourites:

Parks

• Sungei Buloh Wetlands Reserve: Great trails, usually quiet, good place to spot mudskippers and sometimes even crocodiles!

• Macritchie Reservoir: Monkeys aside, it’s a great place to visit. Sometimes you can spot turtles by the zig-zag bridge, and also lots of fishes which is always a fun activity with the kids.

• Dairy Farm Nature Park: Lots of forest canopy, fun loop to collect big leaves and branches. Also a small little building that houses history of the area.

• Hindhede Nature Park: Not sure if many people know, but on the left side of the main entrance of Bt Timah Hill is a great play area that has a flying fox, playgrounds, and a quarry. Great alternative if you want to skip the crowd at Bt Timah Hill (which is also a nice little hike!)

• Southern Ridges and Labrador Park: Lots of trails and of course, the wonderful Hort Park!

• Bukit Batok Nature Reserve: A big playground next to a stream in the middle of the forest.

• East Coast Park: Less for hikes but I had to put it in here because it’s one of my favourites.

Groups:

• Nature Play Singapore: I believe they still organise nature walks for families with kids, mostly in the East.

• Wildings Forest School: Love their programs. Alexis and Sienna attended back in Nov/Dec for a few weeks, often returning dirty/sweaty/drenched - signs of a great time

In the last 2 months since we've relocated to Austria, the one thing that struck me about living here is how sustainability is not just a buzzword but very much a way of life here. Most people here are very connected to the land (only natural when you’re surrounded by so much beauty), and live in harmony with nature, with an acute awareness of their environmental impact.

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

A month ago, we spent a few days at Ammererhof, an alpine inn located 1,600m high on the southern end of the Rauris Valley in the Hohe Tauern National Park. The location itself is magical and staying here was a breath of fresh air - surrounded by high alpine peaks and in the middle of wilderness (no WIFI, no data). On a clear night, it provides one of the best spots for stargazing in Austria given the absence of light pollution. It was perhaps one of the most magical places I’ve been to and stayed at, and definitely the most remote.

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

Ammererhof is a 3rd generation family business, with the main house over 100 years old, and a new private mountain hut (which we stayed at) that's built entirely with wood, providing great insulation and designed to last for generations to come. We very much marvelled at the excellent craftsmanship and choice of materials and modern furnishing at the cabin that comes with its own fireplace, sauna, skylights in the room, and outdoor hot tub - “hot pot” as they call it, I got a little excited initially thinking there was hot pot, Asian-style :) For a few nights, this was very much home away from home.

In contrast to the big commercial properties or places overrun with commercial tourism activities, staying at a place like Ammererhof, experiencing their hospitality, understanding their ethos and why they choose to stay small and sustainable, soaking in the stunning surroundings, is a great reminder that perhaps this is why we travel and why we should continue supporting small locally run businesses that value sustainability, provenance and the environment.

Go off season, and go with the weather

When you go off season (e.g. November), you get better rates, less crowds/traffic on the roads, and you don’t need to pre-book campsites knowing that there’ll almost always be space available. Being mobile and flexible also means that you can plan the route/itinerary based on the weather. For many sights, it makes a big difference when you visit on a rainy day vs a clear sunny day.

Invest in a comfortable campervan

You and your family (or friends) will be spending a fair bit of time in the campervan, and in a fairly compact space, so a little comfort goes a long way. For both our campervan trips (2012 without kids, and 2019 with kids), we went with Wilderness Motorhomes (I was sold on the name, talk about branding!) Great experience with them for both trips - excellent customer service and clean/modern fleet of vehicles. Essentials such as bed liners, pillows, blankets and kitchen utensils are usually included. Outdoor camping chairs, folding tables and small gas BBQs are really great add-ons and you should be able to rent these from the campervan company directly.

Back in 2012, the campervan we rented didn't come with a bathroom/toilet and it was quite an adventure to get by with public/campsite facilities for the whole month. But if you're traveling with a family, having those in the campervan itself is quite a nice little upgrade, especially on those chilly days.

Try out the various campsite options, especially the DOC campsites

In New Zealand, there are generally a few types of camping options across the country that cater to campers of all budgets and comfort level:

• Freedom camping designated spots: These are only for campervans that are certified for freedom camping i.e. you’ll need a portable “toilet”. These are free sites and have no public facilities at all. Some of the most stunning and scenic views we’ve camped at were Freedom Camping sites. On the other end of the spectrum, it could just a carpark off the highway so pick well!

• Department of Conversation (DOC) campsites: DOC is a bit like Singapore's NParks, and they do a superb job in maintaining all the parks and campsites under their care. DOC campsites ranges from standard (usually only a toilet) to serviced (hot showers, laundry etc) and the prices also differ accordingly (from $6 per pax to something like $18 per pax). These are my personal favourites, and I like that the money goes back to DOC to maintain the campsites.

• Holiday Parks and Motor Camps: These are usually more big scale, more commercial, often little character but have all the facilities you might need, and of course, the most expensive (about $20-25 per pax).

Experience the various options to see what suits you/your family. Freedom camping spots and the DOC camping spots are my personal favourites - it’s a bit more wild, a bit more rugged and usually smacked right in the middle of some stunning forests/lakeside/oceanfront, and is great for self-contained vehicles like ours. Every 4 days or so when we run out of clothes to wear or are dying for a proper hot shower, we do check in to a holiday park/motor camp to make use of the facilities. And when we do, we generally enjoy it very much still, after all, a long hot shower IS a luxury.

Here's a few of our absolute favourites from both the 2012 and the 2019 camping trips:

• DOC: Tapotupotu Bay (Near Cape Reinga, North Island)

• Freedom Camping: Clifton Reserve (Near Napier, North Island)

• DOC: Holdsworth Camping Area (Near Tararua, North Island)

• DOC: Peel Forest Campground (Near Geraldine, South Island)

• Freedom Camping: The Pines (Lake Pukaki, South Island)

• DOC: White Horse Hill (Mt Cook, South Island) - busy, but great access and spectacular views

• DOC: Kidds Bush Reserve Campsite (Near Wanaka, South Island)

Don't over-plan your itinerary

It takes a few days to get into the groove, get used to the vehicle, and the various logistics around living in a campervan. Campervan travel comes with lots of freedom and allows for a lot of spontaneity - waking up each morning not knowing where we would be camping that night feels quite liberating and it's really nice to go with the flow based on the weather. We all travel differently so book campsites ahead if you prefer (especially during the high season), but otherwise I'll recommend to leave a lot of room for Plan B, expect the unexpected, and enjoy the freedom that comes along with campervan travel.

There isn't really a 'typical day' but we find what works for us is a morning activity, followed by a post-lunch drive (usually no more than 2-3 hours max), followed by an afternoon/evening activity/walk at near the camp site for the night.

P.S. Download the Campermate and Rankers apps - very useful in looking up campsites and reviews, plus a ton of other resources.

Pack only the essentials

In general, pack light, and if storage space in the van is limited, opt for soft, foldable luggage bags.

• Season-appropriate clothing. Anything that is multi-purpose, easy to wash and dry will make your life easier. As a gauge, bring enough to last for 3-4 days at a go without doing laundry.

• Footwear: Bring hiking shoes, comfortable walking shoes and importantly - a pair of flip flops (you'll need it for going to the shower).

• Repellent for sandflies: These little buggers...avoid if you can, they're about 1000x more annoying than mosquitos. Google for the NZ sandfly map for more info, lots in the West Coast of South Island.

• First-aid kit and essential medicine.

• Other useful knick-knacks: A long rope (and some pegs). Great for hanging laundry - just find two spots (trees) to anchor it.

• Activity books / toys for kids

Familiarise yourself with the "dump stations"

There are a lot of chores and daily logistics to maintain the a self-contained campervan and the most important one is the refilling of fresh water, and dumping of gray/black water from your campervan. A full tank of 120 liters should last approximately 3 meals (washing, prepping) and 4 very quick showers. Which means it is very likely that you'll need to refill every day or every 1.5 days!

If you're freedom camping or mostly camping at DOC sites, then you'll need to get these done at the public "dump stations" which are available all over the country (this country has amazing camping infrastructure, it IS built for camping). Don't be put off by the name, most of the dump stations are well-maintained and have a different area and hose for the fresh water. If you're at motorcamps or holiday parks, they would have these facilities on their premises.

Enjoy cooking in the wilderness (and the #vanviews)

When you're parked in the most remote and/or scenic location and enjoying the #vanviews all while cooking up a storm in the tiny (but might kitchen), life is good. There's plenty of fresh produce, vegetable markets, local farmers markets and local wines/beer to choose from. And if the weather's good, bring out the outdoor table and chairs, enjoy a meal outdoors and soak in the beautiful surroundings.

Park on flat grounds

Random but practical advice - you're likely to find yourself at campsites where the parking area aren't always flat (since it's often on grass), so try to find the flattest spot so your campervan isn't too tilted - you'll feel it :)

And for parents with kids

The concept of having a ‘house on wheels’ for most kids is very exciting (for adults too). Most times you’ll find lots of activities in nature just by stepping out of the van - nature walks around the campsites, collecting of rocks, pebbles, twigs, simple things that kids love. Do pack along some other books and activities that your kids love for those rainy days. And on car seats - most campervan companies will be able to lend you car seats but you can also bring along your own. it's just more comfortable and familiar for the kids who will likely nap in those a fair bit during the trip (try to time the drives with their nap time).

A campervan holiday is hard work (more so if you have kids) but it’s totally worth it. Happy planning and good luck!

There is much to love about camping, especially camping in New Zealand - being immersed in nature, sleeping in the wild and in general just getting back to basics.

We were on the road for a total of 21 days. In a way, this is very much a trip down memory lane for both EB and I, as we spent a month back in 2012 here doing a similar road trip, living out of a much smaller campervan (from the same motorhome company, Wilderness) and exploring the country from north to south. It was a trip we spoke of a lot with the kids and we know that we’d bring them back here one day to experience how it’s like to live and travel in a campervan. It’s all very exciting for the little ones (and us), and by all measures, this is going down as one of our most memorable family trips ever. On a few occasions, just before putting the kids to bed, we all popped outside to watch the night sky. With no light pollution, it was pure magic, and a very touching sight to witness with millions of sparkles right above us.

4 years old is a great age for the kids to experience a camping trip like this, and Alexis and Sienna have been excellent campers - adaptable, curious about everything new they see, asking a million questions, patient (mostly) and by and large very good at keeping themselves entertained and happy throughout the whole trip. They loved their “house on wheels” and carved out their own spots in their own “bedroom” + “playroom”. The window view from their bed is the “sheep TV”, “mountain TV”, “ocean TV” and so on, depending on where we are. We brought along a bunch of books and activity/colouring books which came in extremely handy, but some of the best accidental “toys” include these disco pink laundry pegs which they transformed into various objects and shapes, as well as collecting and flipping through local travel brochures from iSite.

The entire trip has been quite an overwhelming experience (in a good way) and it’ll take me a while to process (not to mention the photographs!). So in the meantime, here are some field notes and observations from our time on the road:

The whole country is designed for camping.

Camping seems to be a way of life and a national past time in New Zealand. The entire country’s infrastructure is so well-equipped for campers that every town has some kind of a camping option (whether it’s freedom camping, conversation camping or holiday park), public dump stations, fresh water refill stations, recycling facilities and ample long vehicle parking built for campervans, that even the NZ road atlases have these spots marked out. Recycling is also second nature to the Kiwis and there’s really little excuse not to do our part. This country is blessed with such stunning nature and landscapes but I think even more commendable is their mindset towards preserving and taking care of their pristine nature.

(On a side note, it’s interesting to note how people camp differently in Austria/Italy, where freedom camping is not common (or doesn’t exist?) and where it’s more common to set up base at a holiday park/campsite for multiple days, and explore the area by foot/bike.)

It’s really magical to live amongst nature.

In Singapore we really enjoy going for nature walks/trails with the kids but going for an extending camping trip is really refreshing and immersive, and to live off the grid for a while to places where there’s not even any cellphone reception. Waking up each morning and being surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks, birds chirping, bunnies hopping, and smelling the crisp forest air. Surely this is #whywecamp?

In New Zealand, there are generally a few types of camping options across the country that cater to campers of all budgets and comfort level:

• Freedom camping designated spots: These are only for campervans that are certified for freedom camping i.e. you’ll need a portable “toilet”. Usually these are free sites, have no facilities at all, but some of the most stunning and scenic views we’ve seen are at some of these at spots. On the other end of the spectrum, it could just a carpark off the highway.

• Department of Conversation (DOC) campsites: DOC is a bit like our NParks, and they do a superb job in maintaining all the parks and campsites under their care. DOC campsites ranges from standard (usually only a toilet) to serviced (hot showers, laundry etc) and the prices also differ accordingly (from $6 per pax to something like $18 per pax). Can’t go too wrong with a DOC site in general.

• Holiday Parks and Motor Camps: These are usually more big scale, more commercial, often little character but has all the facilities you might need, and of course, the most expensive (about $20-25 per pax).

Definitely try out the various options to see what suits you/your family. Freedom camping spots and the DOC camping spots are my favourites - it’s a bit more wild, a bit more rugged and usually smacked right in the middle of some stunning forests/lakeside/oceanfront, and is great for self-contained vehicles like ours. Every 4 days or so when we run out of clothes to wear or are dying for a proper hot shower, we do check in to a holiday park/motor camp to make use of the facilities. And when we do, we generally enjoy it very much still, after all, a long hot shower IS a luxury.

Expect a fair bit of daily routines and housekeeping

Beneath the romantic carefree notion of camping is a lot of chores and daily logistics. This deserves a post on its own but briefly, it includes: emptying the gray and black water tank (EB deserves all the credit), refilling the van with 120 litres of fresh water at dump stations, figuring out where to camp each night (we plan on the day itself based on weather and mood), removing car seats and setting up dinner table, and of course all the usual like washing dishes, cooking, making up the bed, doing laundry, sweeping the campervan floor etc. When 4 people live in a small compact space, it’s bound to get messy/dirty very quickly especially when dealing with all kinds of weather conditions even in spring! Snow, hail, wind, rain, mud. And when one of us can’t stand untidiness and the other can’t stand dirty floors, you can imagine there’s always a whole lot of tidying/cleaning up going on to ensure the van stays neat and tidy!

There’s no bad weather for outdoor play (only bad equipment)

This, I learned so much from EB. Rain? No problem - that’s what the rain jacket is for. Snow? No problem, makes for a nice snow walk and some snow play. Windy? No problem, as long as the kids don’t get blown away. Cold? No problem, pile on the thermal, the jacket and the outer layer and we’ll continue with the walk (and keep walking to generate body heat). Muddy? No problem, take off those shoes and walk barefoot.

Camping doesn’t mean eating lousy food

I learnt this back in 2012 - all thanks to EB’s excellent cooking skills. There’s access to amazing local produce, we can eat very well and drink very well even when camping with just a teeny weeny kitchen in the van. We love fresh produce from the farmers markets, small vegetable / fruit stalls, and roadside veggies/fruit stalls, and were reminded of eating seasonal produce when we realised there’s almost no tomatoes at the Hawkes Bay Farmers Market because it’s only spring, so - eat local, eat seasonal. Although occasionally on a cold chilly day/night, nothing beats a piping pot of spicy Korean instant noodles for my Asian tummy.

Go off season, and go with the weather

It’s quite obvious why - when you go off season, you get better rates, less crowds/traffic on the roads, and you don’t need to pre-book campsites knowing that there’ll almost always be space available. We wake up each morning not knowing where we’ll end up that night, so having the flexibility to decide on the spot or just a couple of hours out is really convenient (can’t emphasise this more). Being mobile and flexible also means that you can plan the route/itinerary based on the weather - there are so many scenic sights in New Zealand that’s day and night when visiting on a rainy day vs a clear sunny day.

It’s surprisingly easy to forget details.

What did we do yesterday? Where did we sleep the night before? Where’s the place where we saw that nice waterfall after lunch? What did we cook the other day for dinner? What’s the name of that cute little town we visited? It’s so easy to forget all the myriad of experiences, details and observations that it really helps to document these, in any which way you like - whether it’s analog or digital.

New Zealand has awesome playgrounds

Almost all of the playgrounds we visited are slightly different and promotes creative (and definitely riskier) play than the ones I’ve seen in Singapore.

It hardly feels unsafe

I’m not sure if I’ll freedom camp in many other countries but in New Zealand, we’ve met with no safety issues throughout. If you’re freedom camping (the free spots), choose it carefully and avoid those that look/feel dodgy and trust your gut feel. Most of the times you’ll realise that you’re just surrounding by fellow campers and travellers who are just like you looking to soak up the beauty of this land. We’ve seen all kinds of folks while camping (both locals and tourists) - definitely lots of couples young and old, lots of young families like ours, and then also lots of groups of families who camp together just because it’s a long weekend with sunny weather.

Nice roads and nice drivers

A campervan like ours can’t go more than 100 km/hr on the roads (it’s always a noisy ride with a lot of clanking of utensils that’s in the kitchen cabinets). That means we’ve had to go on the side a fair bit to give way to faster vehicles, but it’s often met with a friendly double beep from the vehicle who overtakes us, sometimes with a friendly wave to thank us. Makes one feel good about giving way and no road rage at all during the whole time we were on the road - sweet. Gotta love the Kiwis!

Last but not least, kids (and adults?) belong to the outdoors

Because nature’s the best teacher.

Stepping out of the station, the first thing that greets you is the waterfront promenade, and the smell of the sea. We had just wrapped up the very first Saturday Kids Unplugged Summer Camp (more to come on that - it was awesome and lots of fun for the kids, hit me up if you want first dibs for the 2020 edition), and I took the opportunity to extend the stay in Japan for a few days while Erwin brought the kids back home to Singapore first. I’m drawn towards the smaller cities and towns in Japan - I find them less overwhelming and more enjoyable to explore. Onomichi wasn’t on my radar till I started researching for a smallish town with a growing creative community, and where I can just spend my days leisurely exploring on foot.

Onomichi is a bit of a ferry and bicycle kind of town - and for all you cycling enthusiasts, you might have heard of it as it’s known as the starting point for Shimanami Kaido, a scenic 70+ km cycling route that connects Honshu to Shikoku, via 6 small islands on the way. Life takes on a slower pace here, and as a visitor, for the very fact that there’s not a gazillion sights to see makes the visit a lot more enjoyable and less-rushed. There wasn’t much on my agenda, just wanted to photograph, write and organise a whole year’s backlog of photos, and chomp away on Japanese food.

It was in the early evening when I arrived at this very relaxed town. People were sitting around at the benches enjoying the sea breeze and the view (albeit a little industrial with the big ships), people walking their dogs, students playing football, and of course, the cyclists.

I read about how there’s efforts to revive this town. At times, the town felt a little deserted, and there’s doesn’t seem to be much going on. The ‘shopping street’ which is over a kilometre long, consists of a mix of old school mom-and-pop shops selling sundries, socks, hats, some F&B and in the midst of it, a number of small coffee shops/roasters that provides an interesting mix of new and old. But for most parts of the day, it’s fairly quiet, except for the afternoons when students walk home / cycle home after school. Walking along the shopping street, you’ll be able to catch glimpses of the many flights of steps across the railway track leading up to the hill. Given that the temple walk (there’s 20 over temples of which Sentoki is the most famous), and the Onomichi City Museum of Art is located at the top of the hill, I was expecting to see some people on the way up, but on that afternoon, was pretty much the only one hiking up the meandering and narrow walkways (no wonder, the museum was closed that day!). Once up, you’ll be able to see a splendid view of the outlying islands especially on a clear day.

I left Onomichi after spending 4 days there, longer than I originally planned, mostly due to the comfortable stay at the Onomichi U2 Hotel. If you’re looking for a place with a vibrant nightlife, or lots of shopping, or one that’s bustling with activities, this probably isn’t it. But go to Onomichi if you want to experience a small town in Japan, eat good food, and even better, embark on that scenic cycling route across the Seto Island Sea. I think I’ll be back, I was very charmed by the city, but also because I went with no grand sightseeing plans.

I’ve put together a few of my favourite things and places below. Most of these are places that I’ve stumbled upon, and which I kept returning to during the time I was there. Some are places that I’ve bookmarked and would love to check out but didn’t get to do so. If you do visit, do let me know how it goes.

STAY

Onomichi U2 Cycle Hotel

Set in an old warehouse and situated just by the waterfront, here is a hotel (the very first in Japan with only 28 rooms) designed by Suppose Design for cyclists and with cyclists in mind. The space is stunning, very well-designed with an industrial feel (lots of concrete, but also wood). It is also a lifestyle hub, that houses a bike shop, a cafe, a retail shop that curates local goods, a restaurant and a bar. Rooms are very comfortable and at 10,000 Yen - 13,000 Yen, I’d say, very reasonable. Little touches make the difference, such as the provision of soft denim pyjamas designed and made in Japan especially for the hotel, racks in the hotel rooms for cyclists to hang their bikes, if they wish, and nice coffee. I just can’t recommend this hotel enough.

LOG

Didn’t stay here, but space looks very zen and was featured in Monocle (although about 3x the price and up on the hill - waterfront at Onomichi U2 or hilltop at LOG, take your pick).

EXPLORE

Hike up the hill and head to the Onomichi City Museum of Art, check out the Sentoki Temple, the observation tower and if you’re lucky, stumble upon a few small shops and cafes along the way. Spend an afternoon checking out the cafes, having a drink at the waterfront promenade. Walk around the harbour and watch the sunset. It’s a small town, wander around and see what you find.

SHOP

Campanella Press

This was a lucky and unexpected find. Paper products, notebooks, locally designed stationery and lifestyle products, and letterpress workshops. I really like the space.

Onomichi U2 Shima Shop

This is the lifestyle shop situated at the Onomichi U2 Hotel , lots of locally-sourced/designed products.

Onomichi Denim Project

You can read all about this here and here. I love the story behind it, but didn’t spend more than 5-min at the shop because there really wasn’t much to browse (!)

Uzushio Zukkaten

Lifestyle shop with fun knick knacks.

EAT & DRINK

Yamaneko Mill

Having just arrived, I walked by a small back street on the way to ramen. Smelt something amazing. Through the glass, I saw a felt pastry chefs whipping something up in the kitchen. Popped in, asked if I can try/buy whatever they’re making. Ate one, and ended up packing another 3. Visit this place for the most delicious pudding, cheesecake, and on the 2nd floor, they have a restaurant that has a really good view/vibe serving up dishes focusing on local produce. Highly recommended, for coffee/juices, desserts, lunch and/or dinner. I would return just for this.

Ramen opposite Uzushio Zakkaten

Small 7-8 seater ramen joint (name unknown sorry!) but simply find it opposite this shop Uzushio Zakkaten. Try the spicy ramen for a really good kick.

Onomichi U2 Hotel’s Restaurant + Cafe + Bar

Everything is good here. They’ve done a really good job curating the entire space. Head there for breakfast, lunch or dinner, grab a table outside and enjoy the view. If you’re there for a drink or for dinner, please order the wings too. It’s as good as it gets. Friend of mine said that the lemon pizza is excellent too.

Coffee

All around the small town you’ll find a good selection of roasters and cafes - some more traditional, some more hipster. a few that I like: Classico, AROUND, The Yard at Onomichi U2, Pour Over Coffee (can’t locate the address for this but it’s a few shops away from this old Japanese restaurant called Hanaakari), and this called satie that overlooks the railway tracks which I didn’t get to check out.

Enjoy Onomichi.

EAT/DRINK

Kurashiki Ramen Masuya: Good ramen and even better gyoza.

Abuto (Sushi): Good lunch sets, fresh sushi, decent garden views.

SHOP (DENIM)

Japan Blue Denim Laboratory (my fave)

Inobe

Denim Bar

Blue Sakura

Karuizawa is a very idyllic mountain resort area 1-hour by bullet train from Tokyo, and traditionally known as a summer retreat for the imperial family. It does feel like a very wealthy town - the tree-lined streets were very manicured, there’s a lot of huge houses with some situated right in the forests presumably for the wealthy Japanese who can afford to make this their summer homes. I find it slightly ironic and a bit of a contrast that the first thing that we noticed the moment we stepped out from from the train station were: 1) the fresh smell of nature / trees, and 2) a giant illuminated Prada sign at the outlet mall situated right by the train station.

. . .

Days in Karuizawa were filled with time spent in the outdoors, nature walks and whenever we could muster the energy, dining out with the kids at night. We returned with a lot of good memories and the kids speak very fondly of time spent catching butterflies, playing catching, dipping their feet at the chilly waterfalls, finding twigs in the forest, AND they absolutely loved sweeping the campsite (!). Read on to see a few recommendations on where to eat and what to do should you plan to visit in the future.

…And a little guide

Here’s a sampling of the places that I like, there were others that we didn’t get to check out: Harvest Nagai Farm, Stone Church, Yo Ho Brewery, Bird Izakaya. Our team has put together a more comprehensive Saturday Kids Guide to Karuizawa, worth checking out if you’re planning to visit.

STAY

The place we stayed at was very modest and a little run-down so nothing to write about there, however, just take a look at this new gorgeous boutique property Shishiiwa House - the wood, the light, zen to the max. Read more about it here and here. If you ever stay there, please let me know how it is.

Eat

Sandaimekoko: One of the best ramen I have EVER had. Avoid lunch hour if possible. I’d go back just for this.

Suju Masayuki: Good quality Japanese food with a focus on miso-based dishes. Didn’t realise this is the original spot for one of my favourite Japanese restaurants (same name - Suju)

Sawamura Bakery and Restaurant: One of the bakeries that open earlier (8am+). Excellent pastries and bread.

Maruyama Coffee: Great coffee and space.

Do

Nature walks and onsen: The Japanese call this forest bathing, and it is very therapeutic and pleasant to walk in the forest, soaking in the fresh air. There’s an abundance of trails (just Google it). There’s a few in the Hoshino area which is near an onsen called Tombo No Yu and the surrounding shops/cafes make for a nice side trip altogether.

Karuizawa Bookstore: Situated right next to Delica (great supermarket!), this bookstore has a nice collection of books, wares and stationery. Doesn’t matter if you’re non-Japanese speaking, the kids’ books are equally interesting and fascinating in Japanese.

Karuizawa Station Children’s Play Area (Mori no Korisu Kids Station): This was a lucky find, so spare yourself (and your kids) at least 30 min - 1 hour prior to departure to play at this super play space, complete with replica of steam trains, cabins, and the whole works. It’s really all kinds of wonderful (and is free).

Saturday Kids Unplugged Summer Camp: If you’re planning to visit the area in June (and have kids 4-12 years old), then it might be an interesting way for you and them to spend part of the vacation where they go on a 4-day summer camp (without stayover). All the details here.

. . .

Most parents might agree - raising kids is one of the most rewarding yet challenging things we do in life, and every situation, day and stage looks different. Recently I found myself drawing parallels to the business world. Here are my thoughts on connecting my experiences bringing up our twin toddler girls with real life scenarios at work.

1. Motivation gets commitment

Toddlers minds are complex and unpredictable. What worked yesterday may not matter at all today. While they love to talk and share stories, reasoning has not fully kicked in, putting your 'managing via influence' skills to the test. Patience, humility and adapting to new situations are essential to achieve things together. A top-down instruction without buy-in of your toddler? Good luck to you :). In a business context, you may not get a response as open/candid as a 3 year old will give you but you should always take time to explain the rationale of your ask vs. giving limited guidance. Adapt your communication style, have others understand why you want things a certain way and how their contribution aids a larger objective or cause.

2. Spend time to understand

Be it with your children, team members or customers, it holds true that by spending time together, listening to needs/concerns, you will develop a much better understanding of who they are, what makes and drives them, and how can you help them. It's often not just about overt communication but also understanding other signals or body language. Often times, when we spend time with kids it's fairly unstructured - on the contrary for business, where we have very rigid agendas, talking points and expected outcomes. Leaving a little flexibility & time for a personal connect in the business world can go a long way in genuinely understanding what's going on, and what really drives people professionally and personally.

3. Little things matter

One thing that surprised me over the past year is how sharp our daughters' memories are and how much they remember little things. I got reminded what books I promised to read to them at night time, long after I initially mentioned it. The little ones look up to you, and it means the world to them if you meet these promises (or even exceed by throwing in another bedtime story). I told myself to never ever disappoint them on that. Toddlers also don't judge value too much. Some of their most prized possessions are an old, worn pink t-shirt and small books that are not even meant for children (strangely enough - a manual for my wife's digital camera, a book with just text - children's name suggestions). When looking at corporate environments, yes - money/financial incentives are important - but we tend to forget the power of a 'Thank You' or 'Job Well Done' to recognize great accomplishments. Everyone will always be pressed for time during big projects but it's important to ensure people feel appreciated and their contribution is recognized & no commitments being broken.

4. Don't corrupt

Many parents resort to screens as digital pacifiers, to enable a bit of calm throughout hectic days, outings or visits to restaurant. While toddlers may be calm over the course of a meal they don't know limits well and would request more and more screen time. Its hard to resist the easy way out. But by not letting these distractions creep in too much, kids learn how to entertain themselves in other ways - in many cases involving you as parent as well. Likewise, in the business world, it's imperative to stay true to good ethics and integrity when dealing with others. The easy way out/patching things up for the moment may solve things in the short term and get you a quick win but not address fundamentals or the root cause of a challenge. Offering the wrong incentives may also set false precedents and highly likely backfires on you at later stage.

The fact that toddlers are a little bit unpredictable, yet very genuine and completely uninhibited, not guarded with their feelings and moods makes them super authentic but also more challenging than most people we interact with in a business context. But we can also learn a whole lot from them for these very reasons, due to their openness and candid, immediate feedback on everything we do around them. I am in awe seeing our kids grow and develop, as well as teaching us parents new ways of looking at things almost everyday.

View fullsize

View fullsize

(P.S. Here’s one more from over a year ago on raising twins).

The light perhaps? Not the 'white' light that we often  get in Singapore due to the cloud cover, but brilliant light that streams through the narrow alleys, casting strong shadows on the buildings and all around. And of course the colourful pastel facades of these century-old buildings provided such a characteristic backdrop. 

I've heard a lot about Croatia from EB and his countless summer sailing trips when he was growing up. So it was nice to be able to finally visit as an extension of our annual summer trip back to Austria. We chose Istria, the peninsula closest to Austria (4-hour drive), and used the charming old town of Rovinj as a base for exploring the region.

It was high season when we visited, so the region was bustling. With its beautiful, rugged, rocky coastline, we were unsure initially if the lack of sand at the beaches would still be interesting for the kids...but they took to the pebble beaches like a champ and had lots of fun anyway scooping pebbles and building rock-castles. Days were spent usually with a mix of activities - by/in the water, in-land, island day trips, sunset boat rides, driving around the peninsula, and seeing new sights. I think we surprised ourselves by how much we enjoyed this vacation with two toddlers in tow, finally a vacation without too much drama! (No campervan break-in this time, and no one fell ill). 

A quick dip in the sea is always just around the corner, and something that everyone seem to revel in, whether it's in the middle of old town, or in some nudist (FKK - Freikörperkultur "free body culture") corner tucked away behind some forests. People seem to live in their bikini/swim shorts here, and lots of activities revolve around the water (lucky country to have access to hundred of kilometres of drop dead gorgeous landscape and shoreline). People are VERY comfortable with their bodies here and I've seen more nude bodies than I probably needed to - including a middle-aged couple who was driving naked (!)

In Rovinj, I got reminded of how sweet and juicy tomatoes are and should be, just like when we visited Santorini years ago. Something about the Mediterranean sun? We bought tons, and made fresh homemade tomato pasta sauce. Food in general was awesome - plenty of fresh grilled seafood, and with its history (Rovinj was a part of Italy), it had a lot of Italian influences and access to delicious Italian food is all around. Cozze and vongole almost every night for me, and gelato every day for the little ones. 

For two mornings in a row, I sneaked out before the kids woke up to go for a photowalk. Here's a little impression of this charming little cobblestoned seaside town in Istria, Croatia.

On the drive back home to Austria, in 4-hours we had effectively stepped foot in 4 countries - Croatia, Slovenia, Italy and then Austria - a reminder of how compact yet diverse this part of the world is. 

It is not hard to envision where their inspiration come from having witnessed the beauty of their city and country, and in fact, that could probably be said of some of the music that came out of Nordics like Sigur Ros, with sounds that instantly transport you to somewhere idyllic. 

Situated on the southwestern coast of Norway, Bergen is surrounded by beautiful mountains, lakes and sea, and used to be the Norwegian capital, until 1299. 

Walking is the best way to explore the city of Bergen. You will need a good pair of shoes to deal with the cobble-stoned streets, and possibly arm yourself with a brolly in case it rains - which happens very often. Soak in the scenery from the hilltops and peek at the secret gardens. Most of the wooden houses are gorgeous, and often decorated with flowers, a lot of flowers. Spend a day out at sea and try out deep sea fishing, where it goes as deep as 120-meters and takes a good 5-min to reel a fish in. Do an easy trek up Mount Floyen to get a nice view of Bergen. Who knows, you might spot Eirik from Kings of Convenience (as I did, really! I almost died.). Settle at a cafe for a drink or coffee over board games and good music. Check out some of the small live music venues and get a taste of the local music scene. Food-wise, Norway is an expensive country to eat out. Check out the local grocery stores - always a good idea. Fresh market stands offer fresh open sandwiches (shrimps, smoked salmon), mussels, fishcakes. Lots of seafood. Drink Hansa, the local brewery, and most importantly, drink the tap water, it's one of the best I've had. 

And to stay. The one recommendation I have, is Skuteviken Guesthouse, which is owned by Solveig and Elvind, who are artists by profession and set this up a few years ago. Located just 5-10min walk away from city centre and just across the pier, it has a great views of the neighbouring houses on a hill, as well as a gorgeous view of the horizon. It’s a small charming guesthouse on a narrow cobble-stoned street, with just 5 small apartments, each individually designed by Solveig and Elvind, and decorated with some of their own artwork. All the apartments were extremely clean and even have kitchenettes with utensils and some complimentary dry goods such as tea, coffee, pasta, which came in really handy. Great apartment, great location. Great owners too, who were more than happy to have conversations around the Norwegian culture, the Bergen-Oslo ‘rivalry’, music, life in Bergen. We ended up checking out some local music at this local bar called Logen (it's still around!) together - local musicians get together every Monday night for performances. A fantastic spot to stay in all in all.

Address: Skutevikens Smalgang 11, 5032 Bergen, Norway
Phone: +47 934 67 163
Website: http://www.skutevikenguesthouse.com/englishindex.htm

GETTING IN (FROM SINGAPORE)

There are now direct flights from Singapore to Lombok, or if you are going via Bali, just take a speedboat which takes about 2+ hours. The trekking company (more of that below) can usually arrange for a pick up if you arrange ahead of time. Consider going mid-year for better weather - we went in August and were lucky enough to not have any rain at all (and beautiful clear weather) during all 3 days of the climb. 

LOCAL GUIDES

Farosh who owns a trekking company called Lombok Vertical* had been our go-to guy to help organise the trek. While he might not always be available to lead the trek, the guides and porters in his team are generally reliable, patient and trustworthy (at least the ones we had), and we have recommended him to a few friends ever since. 

*If you google Lombok Vertical, you'll see this appearing - https://lombokvertical.wordpress.com/. Note that this is not the same one as the link above.  

THE TREK 

Most trekkers start from either Senaru (forest first) or Sembalun (flatlands first). For our 4D3N trek, we started at Senaru. The complete itinerary is available on his website. The trek takes us through the foirest, to the lake and the crater rim, up to the summit and then descend via a long flat-ish walk through to Sembalun. Along the way, witnessing the sunset over Bali and seeing Mt. Agung in the distance (first picture below), hot springs, camping overnight near the crater rim (4th picture), the steep and gruelling route to the summit, rising above the clouds, and summiting at sunrise. Pity about the amount of garbage on the mountain, and as you can see from the picture below, the summit itself gets really crowded, but doesn't really take away the experience of reaching the top.

POST-CLIMB

Consider extending for a couple of days to enjoy beach life in Lombok. Qunci Villa is rather popular, but Jeeva Klui is my personal favourite, it is smaller and with excellent food. Day trips to Gili Islands can easily be arranged, and don't forget to check out lunch options on the smaller Gili Islands as well - we were at this place called Paradiso on Gili Air, and while the food was nothing to rave about as far as I remember, it had a pretty good chilled vibe for a long lunch by the shore. Renting a motorbike and zipping through the villages, and chancing upon local rustic restaurants was very memorable and gives a more intimate feel for the island than just commuting in a car/van. 

So it's been 4 years (as of 2017) since I last visited and I'd love to visit again in the near future, so if you've got any tips and suggestions, please let me know!

Built in 2011, the D.T. Suzuki Museum is a relatively small and unassuming museum, that exudes an air of tranquility from the moment you step in. As you walk along the dimly-lit inner corridor, the first space you'll see is the Exhibition space, where photo exhibits provides an introduction to the philosopher. The next room is the Learning space, which is a mini library of sorts, where a collection of his books and writings are available for browsing. The last space which is located outdoors and faces a shallow pond, is the Contemplative space - a building with high ceilings and wooden benches, which opens up on 3 sides to the tranquil scenery outside. 

Each of these spaces was designed for a specific purpose, with the intent of inviting visitors to pause and reflect as they go through the different wings and gardens. And in what seems like a very thoughtful Japanese gesture, every visitor was given a small folder in which they can keep cards with quotes on it to bring home, if they wish. 

If you find yourself in Kanazawa one day, be sure to check this museum out. With its minimalist design, dark wood, tranquil gardens and a space that's been mindfully curated, a visit here will be good for your soul. 

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

D.T. Suzuki Museum

Website: http://kanazawa-museum.jp/daisetz/english/
Address: Japan, 〒920-0964 Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa, Hondamachi, 3 Chome−４−２０

Love this quote. 

Mains

• Heinemann schnitzel: Who is Mr. Heinemann? I was told he's a family friend, and this is a family recipe that can't be found at the restaurants. We had this one Sunday afternoon for lunch, and it ranks as one of the best beef patty I’ve had - made with ground beef marinated with herbs and salt, kneaded, and then coated lightly with breadcrumbs and panfried. What makes it really special is the sauce, with capers, brandy and sour cream added to the pan once the meat is done to create a nice mixture used as a sauce for the patty. Served with cranberry sauce. It was as good as it gets, and always on my wish-list every time we visit.
  

• Tafelspitz: Boiled beef in a personal pot filled with delicious beef broth, accompanied with plenty of sides such as cream spinach and rosti. If you're in Vienna, Plachutta serves up an excellent Tafelspitz and definitely worth a visit.
  

• Goulash: To my asian taste-bud, this was my curry-fix. A very flavourful soup/stew with beef cubes, potatoes, carrots and lots of fragrant spices/herbs.
  

• Wiener Schnitzel: Made with pork (instead of veal which is traditionally what's being used), tenderised and cooked to perfection served with onion rice (onion rice?!) or potatoes, along with a lot of lemon juice and ketchup. Here in Singapore, EB makes the best Austrian schnitzel (totally unbiased), so you know who to call next time you want a schnitzel party...
  

• Schnitzel roll: A quick and easy jause (snack) that is always available at Billa and Spar (supermarkets). Asking for gherkins on top of ketchup always seem to raise an eyebrow at the deli counter, apparently not a very Austrian way of eating it, but it tastes 10x better.
  

• Carinthian Kasnudel (Dumplings): Having this dish is almost always a treat. It's a dumpling filled with potatoes, cheese and herbs, and then cooked in lots of butter. Extra extra special when it's made from scratch by hand as one of EB's relatives did for one of lunches last summer.

Soups

• Carrot purée soup: Carrots and a few slices of ginger were put to the boil in lightly salted water, and blended when it started boiling. Add fresh orange juice, olive oil, a little sour cream, and blend once more. Garnish with parsley. Perfect soup to warm up in autumn.
  

• Frittatensuppe: Clear beef broth with pancake stripes. I was surprised to see pancake (stripes) in soup - pancakes was to be drizzled in maple syrup! But here it is, goes amazingly well with beef broth.
  

• Pumpkin soup with a generous drizzle of good quality pumpkin seed oil. The pumpkin seed oil which is a specialty of Styria, is extremely fragrant and nutty and goes really well in salad and soups.

Shrooms (Sourced from the Woods)

• Chanterelle mushrooms: These are the yellow looking mushrooms which makes a great side dish when sauteed with finely chopped onions and parsley.
  

• Parasol mushrooms: These can be breaded schnitzel-style, served with lemon and cranberry jam on the side.. Excellent texture. It is common to go foraging in the woods for edibles here in Austria, and the locals are very knowledgeable when it comes to what's edible an what's not. If you have access to someone who knows how to pick the right mushrooms, this could be a real treat and experience. But if you don't, I'll recommend that you err on the side of caution, given there's a very similar looking one which is highly poisonous.
  

• Thinly sliced porcini mushrooms (from the woods as well!), slightly pan fried with salt and pepper. One of the simplest yet most exquisite dish

Drinks

• Homemade elderberry syrup. To enjoy: Just add cold sparkling water and you get one of the best local’s summer drinks. It smells of spring/summer and is a delightful treat. You can also add a little bit of white wine to make it into a little spritzer. 
   

• Almdudler: Kitschy-looking alpine soft drink. A refreshing sweet treat once in a while. 

Fruits and Vegetables

One doesn't have to look far for the best produce. Most families seem to have a little vegetable garden and grow an abundance of vegetables and fruits in the warmer months and these in turn provides fresh organic ingredients for home-cooking. 

Eating out in Austria (at least for people living outside of the main big cities) is not as common as it is in Singapore and there is a lot more emphasis on eating in. There is a lot of interest in eating from the land and harvesting your own ingredients - from the garden, from the woods, as well as a whole lot of preserving produce from the summer months for the winter. Looking forward to growing this list in time to come.