Honey, and the distant smell of a well-prepared tart tatin. The aromatic impression of a river
running down a bed of well-worn stones with honeysuckle lining the far bank, and apple trees on the hill. The aroma with a humid weightiness to it, as if when you slowly draw it swirling off the liquid.

The palate starts with something akin to the lemon tart that my wife makes, with all fresh lemon and lemon peel and only the slightest amount of sugar, but almost immediately, there are those roasted apples, with some white grapes halved, in the slightest bit of butter and maybe a drop of apple brandy. The palate evidence’s an engineer’s precision, a master craftsman not showing off, just showing how it is done.

What’s strikes is what’s NOT present: there’s no toast, no pain grille, no caramel, no vanilla,
no baking spices. If there was oak, it was certainly very large, very old casks imparting no oak
flavor, but instead just allowing a slight mellowing of the acids. Medium weight, with heft but not fat, like the presence of an accomplished former athlete - a discretely sizeable fellow, maybe 6’ 3” and 220 pounds, who if pressed, can still dunk a basketball.

If you are a fan of the style or the region, or just want to continue to explore the wonders of
Chardonnay, this is an absolute steal, produced by Daniel Barraud, a man many call the best winemaker in the Macon.

Domaine Barraud Macon-Chaintre 2008
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Of course, upon hearing of the wine's return, I was instantly skeptical - I've had enough "Defcon"-ish players in my time that never repeat their all-star batting average in subsequent seasons, and so I tend not to get my hopes up - but a little part of me really wanted it to be true. And so I tried a swirl of it, a week fresh off the container, and it was almost what you'd expect after its long journey: all the pieces were there, but it felt jumbled. So our rep waited patiently for another couple of months, and called me last week with a bottle waiting to be sampled. It's here, I could tell from the tone of his voice. And sho'nuff, it's here. Our 'baby Pommard' is back, and I couldn't be more thrilled. After almost 3 years, the Defcon Returneth! I still have some of the 06, and it's not been long since my last bottle got uncorked, and the similarities are (for obvious reasons) uncanny - this is that same classic juice, with perhaps just a bit more force and focus---a bit more Pommard-iness. I know: Oh, darn! So, here, just go back to my original offer, and you'll see why I originally fell in love with this wine:

Some of you may remember that I featured Jean Garaudet not to far back---his '05 Bourgogne was outstanding, and the Guild took it all. Well, I'm the picture of confidence when I say that his '06 Monthelie just takes it to a whole new level---several levels up, honestly. Monthelie is not very well known---it's a tiny southern Beaune appelation sandwiched between Muersault, Volnay and the hills. While it can often produce thin, inexpressive, run-of-the-mill red burgundy, there is plenty of potential tucked away up there. The better examples turn that lack of body into grace and finesse. Ted Stevenson, in the New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia, calls Monthelie the most underrated in all of Burgundy.

As for Jean Garaudet, Pierre Rovani calls him "the best kept secret in Pommard...(Garaudet’s) elegant wines, saturated with lavish amounts of ripe fruit and harmonious, mouthfilling, satisfying flavors, offer formidable evidence of the positive effects of low yields and old-vines". After being so impressed with Garaudet's Bourgogne, I was expecting a similar wine in the Monthelie, perhaps with a bit more depth and a touch less concentration. So when we opened the bottle and poured the first glass, you can imagine my surprise when the wine lept out of the glass with power, concentration, extraction and meat. This is Monthelie? It was full of brute force, spicy, with an aura of recklessness---not at all what I was expecting. It was almost like he'd blended some typically dark, rich Pommard in here.

As the wine opened up, it began to find its footing, and by the end of the second glass, I was getting some of that finesse, finally. The front end of it was still a bit concentrated, but behind that, there was a perfumed quality, like aged Chateaunuef from a lean vintage, and bright red fruit with tongue-enveloping acidity. Still, though, it was leaping out of the glass. Every sniff was huge, and it was not relenting. The depth was immense, and we marveled at this juxtaposition of the concentrated front end and the precise acidity and intensity of the mid-palate. It was just so unassuming, like a genius who doesn't realize his own brilliance. I was blown away, to put it lightly.

So Kevin corked the last few inches of wine and sent it home with us, explaining that it still had some opening up to do. On the drive back, Steph asked how much it costs; she was expecting mid-$30's. Try mid to upper teens, I said. I'm not sure she believed me.

An hour or so later, I poured the last glass; surprise surprise! I was treated to yet another level. That perfumed character that it had eluded to earlier had taken over. The concentration up front had backed off a little, and it was now (as I put it in a quick "holy crap!" e-mail to Kevin as I was drinking it) like fresh-cut spring flowers drizzled in cherry reduction. The bright, fresh nose gave a new meaning to the old "bouquet" that gets tossed around; this is the kind of elegance, finesse, and whispers of greatness and I would hope for from a $40 bottle of 1er cru Burgundy. But Monthelie? For the 3rd time that night, I was slayed by this unassuming bottle from a backwoods Beaune village.

This is all terribly bittersweet, though, because Jean Garaudet is hanging it up. This will be his last vintage, as his children (fools!) have no interest in taking the reigns. So here we are: his last year; it's amazing wine, wine that far, far outpaces its tariff, and so I'm writing this DEFCON e-mail with flashing red lights and sirens. I can say with utmost confidence that a Burgundy of this caliber, at this cost, comes along maybe once every couple years (especially since the Guild gets a special price break.) I'll be ordering plenty for myself, Kevin's taking a good chunk, but the supply is not that deep. He's been sampling it around the area, and I'm afraid that someone else is going to jump on it soon, so I implore you: do not flounder or falter. If you love great Burgundy, and love great inexpensive Burgundy even more, you simply cannot do better than this.

2006 Jean Garaudet Monthelie (Côte de Beaune)

There you have it. One of the very best wines we've had the good fortune to offer here at the Guild returns like Roy Hobbs to knock it out of the park again. At the price of many a village-level Bourgogne, you have what could be mistaken for some mean Pommard. I dare you to say no...

2009 Domaine Berthelemot Monthelie
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As some of you may know, I have a serious soft spot for Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre...it is, by most measures, the best in the world, and it's become an annual tradition of ours to go through a case or so of the Cherrier when it shows up in late spring. Now, there are scores of Sauv Blancs from outside of France that strive to craft a similar reputation, but the problem with this varietal in the modern wine world, as with Chardonnay, Cab, etc., is that with so many producers on the bandwagon around the globe, there's a frustrating abundance of cheap grapefruit-bombs out there to wade through (or, alternately, you just have to pay through the nose for quality) - so much so that I've taken to just hunkering down with a couple trusty Sancerre producers just to be safe.

That having been said, you can be pretty sure that when you see me of all people get excited about an affordable bottle from Mendocino County, it must be something special...and here we are! The 2009 Patianna Sauvignon Blanc is some of the best sub-$30 SB I've tasted, Sancerre included - and to be honest, I think it's actually more accessible than a lot of those French examples right now; rather than being a tight ball of minerality and acid that needs time and patience to open up, this is wide open, full throttle, right now. That's certainly not to say that it's a flabby, oaky, or overly-obvious attempt to placate the 'California palate', either; this is actually very Sancerre-esque, just with much more unctuousness.

The Patianna estate is fully certified organic & Demeter-biodynamic, and the wine here reflects their dedication to terroir expressiveness: there's a stony, chalky front end that's buffeted by soft citrus and lychee, with only a touch of that typical passionfruit/ivy character that can so often overpower 'new world' Sauv Blanc. There is bright, powerful acidity and energy throughout, and the wine is dangerously gulpable, but what really struck me after a few sips is the sheer depth of the wine: it's anything but one-noted, with layers of terroir and varietal character, all held together with a confident structure that is rarely if ever found at this price range. This is what you call rarefied, and at under $17, almost unheard of.

It's also getting plenty of attention from the press, and is thus disappearing fast. It showed up on the cover of Wine Enthusiast recently, and made #5 in their top 100 wines of 2011:

Winemaker Mike Lee continues to prove his prowess with Sauvignon Blanc in this latest vintage from Patianna, Patti Fetzer's line of organically farmed wines from outside of Hopland in Mendocino County. Fermented entirely in stainless steel without undergoing ML or barrel aging, it delivers everything you love about the variety, inviting one in with melon and minerality, then following through with a surprising creaminess and almost decadent, mousse-like finish. 93 pts.

2009 Patianna Sauvignon Blanc
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The wine was the 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione. The Vietti estate is run by Luca Currado, generally regarded as one of the top winemakers and consultants in Barolo right now. I have had the pleasure of meeting him a couple of times on my trips there, and have always been impressed by his warmth and charm for a person as highly revered as he is. Just last week, Antonio Galloni of the Wine Advocate featured him in his video series on Barolo, which can be seen here: http://www.erobertparker.com/members/ag/ag184.asp (I believe this works, but you may need to be a subscriber).

Castiglione is their baseline Barolo, a blend of several of the estate's Cru vineyards, places like Bricco Fiasco, Ravera and Fossati. For my money it's one of (if not THE) best base-level Barolo made each year. And recall that 2007 was a great vintage in Barolo, with the wines I've tasted across the broad showing exceptionally well. Interestingly, this vintage is drinking well right off the bat (unlike most) -- while these wines will certainly improve with age, this can be consumed now and deliver great pleasure.

Galloni published a strongly enthusiastic review of the wine last year and gave it a great score:

The 2007 Barolo Castiglione deftly balances the open, radiant personality of the vintage with considerable underlying structure. Warm, dense and full-bodied, the 2007 Barolo Castiglione flows effortlessly across the palate with generous fruit and fabulous overall balance. The wine was even better when I tasted it from bottle a few months later. It is another overachieving wine from Vietti and a bottle that is exceedingly fairly priced. 93 points. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.

Whether you are a savvy Barolo connoisseur, got recently introduced to it through the Guild, or are curious to try it for the first time to see what the fuss is all about, this would be a great wine for you. Complexity, class, accessibility, and a very affordable price for the overall quality, this is a great choice all around. Highly recommended!

We're expecting this wine to arrive by the end of the month.

2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione, Piedmont, Italy
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To begin, many of you are familiar with the Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia -- we've sold cases upon cases of the 2004 and 2006 vintages of this wine, which is literally one of my favorite wines in the world. I'm sure you can find those prior emails in your files or archive if you want to experience again my enthusiasm for this wine, but for our newer members this is (in my mind) the single best bottling of Chianti made anywhere by anyone. It's a hugely extracted, powerful and complex expression of Sangiovese (blowing the traditional notion of lightweight, elegant Chianti out of the water) that can go toe to toe with California Cabernet, Bordeaux or Barolo. The 2007 vintage was a very strong one in Italy, and this wine once again lived up to expectations:

The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia bursts onto the palate in a big, brooding expression of Sangiovese from Castelnuovo Berardenga. Muscular and dense to the core, the 2007 powers all the way through to the long finish. Hints of smoke, tar, leather and scorched earth emerge over time, but only with great reluctance. In a vintage where so many wines are open, the Rancia comes across as quite stubborn and in need of at least five more years in bottle. That said, it is a standout, not to mention one of the greatest values in fine, age-worthy wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. -- 94 points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

As an added bonus, we have another spectacular wine in the Felsina portfolio to add to the mix this time -- the 2007 Felsina Fontalloro. The Fontalloro is another of Felsina's top wines, also a 100% Sangiovese, but since this particular vineyard is *just* on the other side of the DOCG that defines Chianti proper, the wine cannot be designated as such and has taken a marketing name instead. When I tasted it earlier this year I thought it was more approachable than the Rancia, and Galloni apparently agrees:

The 2007 Fontalloro is round, sweet and inviting, very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. The fruit tends towards the redder end of the spectrum vis-a-vis the Rancia and the Fontalloro seems to possess a touch more freshness. Floral, spiced notes add lift on the finish.-- 93 points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

Now, it's pretty rare when a wine we've offered at regular price in multiple prior vintages shows up in a closeout, but when it happens we're thrilled to pass it along with our highest recommendation. In addition, this time we're also able to offer another spectacular wine from the same estate, at a similarly-discounted price. Please respond quickly if you have an interest, as the distributor has made these close-out prices available to all the shops in town and I expect they'll move very quickly...

2007 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Italy
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2007 Felsina Fontalloro, Italy
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I often desire to describe wines with English words for which there are no French equivalents. Not really knowing how to speak French, this is often a shot in the dark for me. There are a few words that I have to believe have no good French expression: Spaz, wedgie, nuggie, chillaxing, metrosexual etc...

Furthermore there are a few things in the wine world for which there are not yet a name. For instance, that cross over point in a wine where you can just tell it is in the higher class of quality. I have always wanted a name for that so I can say things like, "This wine is clearly beyond the Wilrich level." Just an idea, Parker can use it if he wants.

Speaking of wines that are way above the Wilrich level, I have another Champagne that has blown my mind. Pierre-Cheval Gatinois produces in the Grand Cru Village of Ay. Looking over his reviews now I see that he sells much of his fruit to Bollinger for their Grande Anee bottling. This fact makes me feel better about my own note on the wine, "Bollinger at a reasonable price." This is a classic of the Grand Noir style with 90% Pinot fruit going into the bottling.

I compare the wine to Bollinger but there is a much more individual small house style here with the Gatinois, Grand Cru. Brut NV. Like a metrosexual of manly charm and grace the wine is serious, brooding almost but with fine polish. The tiny bubbles spaz in the glass giving a creamy weight as the wine chillaxes on the palate. My notes read, "delicate but forceful" like an over the head wedgie from your older sister with just as long of a finish. A nuggie of intense refinement digging into your senses through a veritable head lock on your tongue.

Let's see that put into French.

The Wine Advocate and the Spectator both give this wine 91 points:

"The NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition offers lovely inner perfume with a silky minerality that is all about elegance and understatement. The essence and warmth of Pinot from Ay comes through in spades. The NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition is 90% Pinot Noir (mostly Petit Pinot d’Ay) and 10% Chardonnay, mostly 2004 vintage, with a dash of 2005 and 2003. The wine was aged in steel and dosage was 6 grams per liter. NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition is as great a value (in relative terms) as readers will find in Champagne. Disgorged: 3-4 months prior to release, but no specific date indicated. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012." Grower Champagne - 91 Points Antonio Galloni - The Wine Advocate

Folks are just beginning to come back for the delicious Agrapart Champagne that I sent out a few weeks back. This Champagne is totally different. Gatinois eschews oak use, his dosage is always small, just what is needed. This man is a purest and his style is the elegant style one imagines Kings and Queens would have toasted with in ages past. This is truly an education in the refinement Champagne can approach and I give it my highest recommendations possible.

Scrumpitous Champagne, far above the Wilrich mark.

Gatinois, Grand Cru. Brut NV.
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This Rioja is 100% Garnacha. That's Grenache for the French minded. This is a very unusual thing to do with a Rioja. The handling is perfect and there is a real focus on nuance and complexity in the wine,

The wine is juicy on the palate with a little touch of vanilla from the oak. Great freshness thanks to the good acidity that makes the wine long and precise. Cifras is well structured without sacrificing the quality of the tannins. This is a different way of understanding Garnacha in Rioja where it is usually blended with Tempranillo.

Only 10% of the juice sees any oak. The real focus here is on the purity of fruit. This gives the wine a quality that is instantly harmonious with those who enjoy top California red wines. I believe it is wholly intentional for the winemaker to draw us in with this initial burst of pure deliciousness. But once you get over the fact that this wine is just damn yummy you can not help but notice that there is a lot going on in the bright acidity and unmistakable mineral notes. A true New World expression of terroir in a package of ultimate delivery.

You may recall That Kevin Sidders has offered out the white wine from this estate in the last two vintages . That is because the white has consistently offered an exceptional level of quality for its relative price point. Whereas we have always loved the red, the leap of quality in this vintage makes it a complete do not pass up wine itself.

This is a wine for any occasion, great with all kinds of food but really just dang enjoyable to drink. For me it is also the perfect price point for a truly heart felt gift wine for this time of year. Ambassador wine, your key to graciousness in when entering any door. I highly recommend this one to all palate types.

2009 Bodegas Exeo, Cifras, Rioja. 'Garnacha'
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Port, to me, is one of the enigmas of the wine world. Too many barriers to entry (vintage port costs an arm and a leg and requires aging, non-vintage stuff is often trash) mean that most people, rather than trying to wade into the pond, just forgo it altogether...but when it's done right, when it's aged well enough, and/or when it's priced in a range where you can experiment with it, Port can be something very special and, once in awhile, life-altering.

Now, for the uninitiated, here's a few basic ins and outs of Port: all true Port comes from the Duoro region of Portugal; there are two main types of port, ruby and tawny---ruby is reddish and sweeter and richer, tawny is often a bit drier and more sherry-like; like in Champagne, "vintages" are declared by the powers that be only when a great growing season comes along---in these cases, the wine is aged in barrel for a maximum period of 2.5 years, and then ages in the bottle from there on out. Tawnies, on the other hand, are aged only in the barrel (the years in barrel are typically indicated on the bottle), hence the more brownish, tawny color and increased oxidation (the tradeoff is that they don't change once they're in bottle...all the aging is done in the barrel). Lastly, when juice from vintage years is aged in barrel a la tawny, it is called Colheita.

The bottle I'm bringing you today is a 10 year old (10 years in the barrel) tawny from a new (to the states), small producer, Messias. Dionysos' Kevin Schultz personally selected this on a recent trip to Portugal, and I can't say enough about it. It really is the whole package. And look, I love good vintage ruby port, even late-bottled-vintage stuff, but for my money, right now, without worrying about aging or spending a bunch of money, good tawny is where it's at. It's not sherry, but it's in that direction, and that's what I love---the time in the barrel really brings another class of elements to the table. A brooding, raisiny nose is buttressed by soft aromas of leather and tar, and salty Marcona almonds, and pecans dressed with caramel. The palate starts with sweet cookies, caramel and a touch of smoky charcoal, but it's never actually that sweet. The alcohol is very well-integrated, as is the oak; the finish is dry, spicy and lingering. "Truly awesome" is how my notes finish out. It is.

But it doesn't stop there (but wait, there's more!) Unlike so many great wines of late, this wine has a classic, romantic pre-Prohibition package that just says "porto!" to me (literally and figuratively). Simple, stenciled white lettering, no frills (see below), and the bottle actually comes in a very sleek, attractive box---making this the perfect gift idea. I'd be thrilled to get this under the tree, myself.

Okay, so, remember way back in the subject line, where I used the word "deal"? I think I also said something about it being "the best ever". I meant it. We're talking under $19! I think I've said enough...this is the only tawny you need.

Messias 10 Year Tawny Porto
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“Remarkably accurate… advice and tips are to be taken seriously. If you visit France at least once a year, a good investment is a subscription to La Belle France.”

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Pick up a subscription form at the Wine Guild or email my friend Jeremy Goldstein at jeremy@labellefrance.com and see why Travel + Leisure magazine calls La Belle France, “The pick of the travel newsletters - a bright insider publication providing travelers with indispensable information.”

Absolutely no hyperbole, I would have been happy paying $16-$18 for this Dolcetto.

I first tasted the wine over a month ago with the sales rep. You may remember as I offered the Barberesco from the same estate. I wanted to offer the Dolcetto then but the 200 cases they had in stock were immediately purchased by another retailer in the Northern Virginia area. I have been waiting for its return to offer out and it is finally back.

This wine marks maybe one of three for the year in the category of drinking quality that at double its price point would still have you thinking it was a steal. The flavor reminded me of a quality of Dolcetto I had not had in some time, deep and brooding tart berry flavors, ruby velvet in both color and feel with a good tannic grip to let you know you have something of worth to bight on to.

This is a tremendously solid red that is priced for everyday drinking. It is my #1 holiday red wine pick as it will please almost all of your guests whilst having the unique ability of also being delightful to you as well.

My highest recommendations for this quality and price point

2009 Franco Serra. Dolcetto
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