Wine Virtuosity

Guillaume Gilles In Cornas – Young Guy, Old-School Wines

Niklas Jorgensen — Thu, 23 May 2013 13:56:40 +0000

"Talk to Guillaume." My preferences in Cornas are the guys aiming for a more traditional approach. You know, no destemming or at least not completely, longer skin contact, larger casks, older casks, no fining and no filtration. That kind of stuff. Cornas simply doesn't work well the modern way, reducing way too much of its character. Somehow a traditional vinification and aging enhances elegance and a sense of place in the wines. Clape, Vincent Paris, Thierry Allemand or Frank Balthazar are all producers which, in my world, confirms the theory that there's no school like old-school in Cornas. Don't take it too static though; of course these guys are not ultraconservative winemakers. They are influenced by modern techniques as well. I've just met Vincent Paris and I'm asking him if there's any particular I really should meet, someone lesser known than the Clape and Allemand but sharing their philosophy of Cornas. "Talk to Guillaume. Guillaume Gilles. He's good." Never heard the name before but since Vincent Paris produces some of my absolutely favorite wines in Cornas I guess the man knows what he's talking about. Guillame Gilles it is! It takes me about two seconds to realize Guillaume is a real winemaker. A handshake and I notice he has dirt under his nails. Clay? Sand? For sure it's not granite but he has obviously been working the land this morning. I like the guy instantly. He's a bit shy and almost blushes when I tell him Vincent sent me. I'm happy he don't think in Pulp Fiction terms but instead of Paris. Guillaume tells me about the tiny estate and that he's trained under the legendary Robert Michel. Actually he is using Michel's parcel in Cornas, leasing it, to produce his wines. A parcel I guess many would like to have in their possession, located in the Chaillot vineyard. Guillaume is also producing a Côtes-du-Rhône, the Les Peyrouses. Actually Les Peyrouses comes from the flat part in Cornas and hence are not allowed to use the appellation term. Côtes-du-Rhône it therefore is. The 2011 Les Peyrouses has a depth you don't associate with the more general and less strict Côtes-du-Rhône. The tiny parcel only produces a few bottles but boy is this good. Classy tannin structure, the cooler fruit of the vintage and length. My instant reaction is of course how to get hold of a case. Gilles tells me the vines are extremely old, dating all the way back to the 1870's and that he treats the grapes more or less he same way as his entry Cornas! An old family parcel. This is a must find. I realize that he must feel blessed, to have worked under Robert Michel and now are leasing both the Chaillot vineyard and Michel's cellar. After all, it takes a long time to start up a traditional cellar and perhaps a main reason why few winemakers of today chooses the old-school from the start? Guillaume Gilles produces two Cornas labels, La Combe de Chaillot and the Cornas. One for earlier drinking, one cellar bound. 2011 La Combe de Chaillot has for logical reasons if you wish for a more approachable wine already in its youth, been destemmed. It's still from the Chaillot site but from the parts Guillaume doesn't want to use for the top wine. I like the violets scents, the more spicy feel compared to Les Peyrouses and the darker fruit. Although destemmed, the tannins are more evident, in need of some time. But the smoke, the wet earth, the structure indicates a sense of place. It's simply called Cornas. Will handle ten years without any problems. It reminds me slightly of the Renaissance (from the younger vines) of Clape actually. The grand vin is grand. The label simply says Cornas. Enough said. This is soil talk; something for friends of tannins, muscles and acidity. Drink it now and your dentist will love you. Drink it in 15 years and the wine will thank you. The 2011 Cornas shows oriental spices, violets, dark cherries, smoke and green notes. A tannic level making a Barolo shy, still strangely appealing. I guess the fruit and the mineral driven acidity feel balances it all. Raised in 600 liters barrels. Old ones. Again, what mainly makes me fall for the wine is its purity. Just like Clape. Just like Paris. This is long, pure and packed with personality. God, I love old-school Cornas. Thanks Guillaume Gilles. You're the future.

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Tokaj – Soil Talk, Producers & Mouldy Cellars

Niklas Jorgensen — Sat, 18 May 2013 10:40:45 +0000

Furmint you think, is the great grape of Tokaj. Well, Stéphanie at Kikelet in Tarcal is not fully sure this is the case adding Hárslevelű as a serious competitor. Taste her 2011 Lónyai dűlő and you might be convinced. Third photographic teaser from Tokaj!

Stéphanie Berecz

Black mould covers the cellars of Tokaj. It needs to be experienced!

István Balassa, explaining how they will cut the vines. Here at the Nyulászó site close to Mád.

Soil talk. The complexity of the soil in Tokaj are a main reason for the different expressions. Here dark clay and quartz at Betsek.

Király; one of the great sites of Tokaj. But what more to expect? It means 'king' in Hungarian. Erzsébet Pince makes a really fine Király.

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Tokaj – Interpreting Terroir

Niklas Jorgensen — Fri, 17 May 2013 08:35:44 +0000

What makes Tokaj special - at least compared to the other wine regions of Hungary? Primarily the terroir of course although perhaps just as important are how the producers interpret the outcome of it. The styles between them differ a lot but it's quite rare to bump in to over-extracted bombastic wines which sadly still are highly regarded in the country's, mainly red wine regions. Some producers focus on the loess soil in the south, around the town of Tokaj for example, others on clay at the village of Mád. In the northern parts of Tokaj the single vineyards are not as well-known yet, but perhaps these are the ones that are worth keeping an extra eye on considering the greatness of for example Bott's Csontos site and Demeter Zoltán's Boda. Here's my photographic teaser number two from Tokaj, before going more in to depth of my impressions from the 2013 visit.

A much longed for rain passed by Tokaj last Sunday afternoon. Although the region do possess a good amount of older vines with deep root systems there's also a lot of new plantations which really needed the drink. On the photograph taken just before the storm, the loess based Zafir dűlő where Erzsébet Pince owns a part.

Ever heard of Bott Pince? If not, remember the name. This is top, top quality and honest expressions of the single vineyards sites which the producer holds. Judit (on the photograph) and József Bodó are the future of Tokaj and have only started scratching the surface. I just know it's a matter of time before they take the next step and closes in at the highest of levels. Taste the 2011 Teleki or the 2011 Csontos and you will understand.

See that red little thingie, the wire on the vine? It's causing sexual confusion by sending out pheromones, keeping the vermin away. The producer of Tokaj-Hétszőlő are organically certified and it's quite an impressive work behind it, to treat a classic south-facing site of this size without pesticides and fertilizers. Respect.

Pinot Noir in Tokaj? Hell yeah! After all, it's been around since the 19th century, already documented as being planted back then as Nagy-Burgundi. But it's not one of the six approved grapes of Tokaj so red wine in the region can only be classified as the more generic Zempléni. Most promising examples of the variety tasted at Sauska and Dobogó.

László Szilágyi at Gizella Pince. I just love his Hárslevelű from the single vineyard of Szil-völgy. Most consumers believe that Furmint is the great grape of Tokaj but producers like László for example, clearly shows the true potential of Hárslevelű. To find out more about Gizella, click here.

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Tokaj – The Burgundy of Hungary

Niklas Jorgensen — Thu, 16 May 2013 13:14:50 +0000

Great variations in the soil structure, more than 400 single vineyard locations and a northern latitude. Add the fact that Tokaj are in possession of Furmint; one of the greatest white grapes in the world when it comes to expressing terroir. This and a lot more makes the advancing Tokaj the perhaps most interesting wine region in Europe currently. At least the one with the greatest potential of joining those able to produce world class dry white wines. Interested in finding out more about the region and its wines and producers? Follow Wine Virtuosity here and on Facebook.

Tokaj town; a cosy place where wine is, quite understandably, put in focus.

The importance of close-by water can't be stressed enough in Tokaj.

The soil structure in Tokaj is either clay or loess, depending on where you are. Beneath that, it's all about volcanic subsoil. At the old mine the wine geek is presented with a cross section of several meters of the soil.

It's that time of the year again, when it all starts! The greenness is simply amazing.

Lots of 2012 wines tasted, a dry and warm year for Tokaj. Still a lot of really great wines to be expected.

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Domaine Auguste Clape – Cornas Greatness

Niklas Jorgensen — Mon, 06 May 2013 13:21:31 +0000

Perhaps not as refined tannins as in 2010, but that is compensated by a to die for-coolness in the vibrant and pure fruit. Add some oriental spices, black olives in brine, a dash of greenness, violets, loads of oozing wet rocks and you probably understand the 2011 Cornas from Pierre-Marie and Olivier Clape is right up my alley. I'm not going to claim that Pierre-Marie's and Olivier's traditional winemaking approach results in a wine more true to its terroir. But at the very same moment I'm not sure my preferences can come up with a better example than Domaine Auguste Clape. Natural yeasts, no destemming, picking late, fermenting in concrete, aging in old foudres and no filtration, would seem a more honest way of respecting a vineyard and what it produces, but there is still a personal belief and intervention. The winemaker's interpretation. In the case of Clape it is the last part that perfects the terroir presence. I simply call it skills. And an taught instinctive feel. Domaine Auguste Clape is all about blending. The Cornas wine is a mix of grapes from some of the best sites in the appellation. No single vineyard wines here. Obviously Auguste Clape started something quite extra-ordinary when he decided to bottle the stuff himself and not sell the wine to the big companies as was the standard half a century ago. The knowledge built up during the decades, passing it on to his son Pierre-Marie, has few competitors in the wine world today. With Olivier, Auguste's grandson, comes yet a dimension of knowledge considering he has partly been trained abroad. Not to mention the acquisition of the really old steep Petite Syrah vineyard sites from the legend Noël Verset, adding even more age to their existing parcels. Gee, I wish Clape was a single subject in the oenology degree. The 2011 Cornas has a structure which impresses. Twenty years wont be an issue. Au contraire. Still quite seductive but will close down as most Clape wines do. My experience of Auguste Clape with age is limited to a handful of tasting notes. Still they show a pattern saying aging is rewarded - and necessary. The 2004 Cornas was a painful reminder roughly two years ago. Even for tasting purposes and understanding the bigger picture, it almost felt stupid to have it knowing how few of them are produced annually. In order to ease the Clape cravings, there's since more or less 15 years, the Renaissance, a second wine Cornas of high quality. Younger vines on granitic soil. The vinification is similar to the treatment of the grand vin but the end result is a bit more flirty and straightforward. Still an old-school wine and a style which will call for aging. The 2011 Renaissance shows the same purity in its fruit as the Cornas but not the same intensity or the same massive tannin level. It's still playing in a league few producers reach up to. After all, how many producers would call 20+ years old vines for young? It's difficult to find Domaine Clape. It's not cheap but put in to context perhaps it is. After all, tell me where you will find as much personality in a wine, as much expression of the terroir and as much handicraft for the Clape price tag and I'll listen. Find the wine? Use the green wine-searcher field in the top right corner of the site.

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A Hommage To Hermitage – A Syrah Lover’s Pilgrimage

Niklas Jorgensen — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:05:59 +0000

I must have been 22, perhaps 23, when I went on my first wine tasting. Amongst the wines presented there was this Saint-Joseph. Will never forget the smell and taste of raw meat and smoked sausages. Not to mention it felt like I'd bit my tongue. My entrance to Rhône... Yup, you guessed it; Rhône wasn't the reason for my wine passion to explode. That epithet belongs to Bordeaux. But when I today have a love and hate affair with the Gironde region, that blood tasting Saint-Joseph somehow couldn't really be pushed away, out of my mind. The wines simply fascinated and has continued to for almost twenty years by now. Many Northern Rhône Valley wines has the 'je ne sais quoi' feeling written all over them and I seem unable to get enough of it. Retrospect I still remember the first premium Rhône I picked up; a bottle of Jaboulet's 1990 Hermitage La Chapelle in the mid-1990s. The price was roughly 30 euros. Quite a lot for a student but I just had to taste the wine I'd read so much about. The La Chapelle was spectacular. Way too young but I probably had my first major Rhône wine experience. Even an amateur like myself realized this was the good stuff. Shortly after I had a 1983 Monier de la Sizeranne; my first taste of an evolved Hermitage. Fascinating stuff and quite different from the older Bordeaux wines I'd had. Then it took a while before I was poured a wine of the 1990 La Chapelle class. Guess it was worth the wait; the 1994 Le Pavillon Ermitage from Chapoutier. Took me by storm. Perhaps I was blinded by the fact that some of the vines were dating back more than 100 years? Anyway, who cares? It was fantastic. Real life awaited. The safe walls of the university were no longer and I gave the wine business a shot. Copenhagen and Kjaer-Sommerfeldt for two years completely formed my wine passion and if I'm to blame anyone for turning me in to a francophile it's the Danes. Thanks guys! The fact we were the agency for Chapoutier resulted in many a great tastings and of course the producer became my reference point for fine Hermitage. Then I had Chave a couple of times. Perspectives were added. Preferences updated. However, leaving the wine trade was a boost to my wine passion. Profit thinking did its best to tear it apart. The wish to check out the Hermitage hill remained though. A Syrah lover's pilgrimage How funny life can be sometimes. From a sudden and not planned at all I was standing at the hill one freezing day in March 2013. Having spent the other day in Avignon where temperatures indicated spring, I totally blew it in Tain l'Hermitage, dressing the way only a naive Scandinavian is able to. 5 C and a spring jacket didn't stop me from walking up the Hermitage though. The hill, divided in three parts, has the Bessards to the west. In the central part the cultivations are divided in to Méal, the upper part, and Greffieux, the lower part. To the east one will find Murets and Dionniers. If you start at the lower parts, the Greffieux, it quickly becomes obvious this isn't where the greatest wines emanate from. The erosion on the hill has provided the part with more fertile soil. Still, many Syrah producers around the world would kill for the terroir at Greffieux. Taste Chapoutier's Les Greffieux and you will understand. The higher part differs significantly with meager soil; more limestone and silica, all covered by a pebbly surface. Méal is facing south meaning it's the most sun-drenched part of the hill. This is where you kneel and worship the vines. In the west the soil is more granitic. Lots of alluvial stones on the surface. Schist and gneiss below. This is the Bessards part and here Syrah reigns. Many are surprised to find out that almost a third of the Hermitage actually is white grapes, Roussanne and Marsanne, and that the producers may blend 15% of the grapes into their red Hermitage. But the white grapes doesn't fancy the Bessards soil structure, they are to be located mainly in the east part of Hermitage, at Murets and Dionniers. More clay in the soil. Standing in the lower parts of Hermitage you can more or less see the whole thing. It's both quite small and impressive at the same time. 136 hectares of cultivated land results in roughly 700 000 bottles a year. Not all is great. Greed always finds its way in when there's a name to feed on. But if compared to a site like Clos de Vougeot in Bourgogne, a true minefield, a Hermitage purchase will seldomly reward you with a dunce cap. I'm on my own but while walking the narrow roads finding its way between the vines, I'm bumping in to the vineyard workers that collects and fires off dead branches. We nod and exhange bon jours. It's a tough job, to work the steep parts of the hill and I'm not envious, having tried it myself. These guys are the unsung heroes of the wine world. Sadly many of them ends up with bad knees. Although it's cold, there's something special about visiting just before it all kickstarts again. The vines and soil becomes so evident. Naked. But even the most enthusiastic Syrah lover knows when to end the pilgrimage and head back for the Découvertes tasting; when you simply can't hold the camera anymore. Thanks Hermitage; you're amazing!

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Vinho Verde – Time To Choose Direction?

Niklas Jorgensen — Tue, 16 Apr 2013 12:28:34 +0000

I love Vinho Verde. A lot. The huge region has taken some big steps the last decade towards more quality thinking and it's been a thrill to be part of that, as a consumer. Names such as Quinta do Ameal, Quinta do Feital, Quinta de Soalheiro, Aphros, Anselmo Mendes represents the top producers but there are many more just around the corner, producing some really serious stuff. This needs to be said and understood before continuing reading. The Vinho Verde tour came to Stockholm the other day and to the list of visiting producers, a few already established on the domestic market, also sneaked in. Quinta de Soalheiro for example. Soalheiro is a top estate - some would claim the best - so that they became reference wines at the tasting is only logical. Sure, you can question whether the sub-region of Monção e Melgaço where Soalheiro are to be found, is representative for Vinho Verde. The sub-region's climate do differ considerably from many of the other sub-regions of Vinho Verde and furthermore the Alvarinho grape reigns in Monção e Melgaço. But I can't help but to think it's sad that even Soalheiro's entry wine, Allo, a blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro, were superior to several Vinho Verde wines from other sub-regions. I'm not claiming the others were bad, just that too many are, well, boring. Does it really have to be like that?

Sub-Região do Lima

The 2012 Allo is such a pure wine with minerality, a dry approach and also shows some concentration. No gas though. Too a many Vinho Verde are stuck in bland, low alcohol wines with high fruit acidity which hides the remaining sweetness (if cold). Furthermore, the sulphur often becomes more evident in these wines. Then the gas.... You can charm people with the refreshing character but an aware consumer will not be impressed by the almost watery style in the long term. I'm not sure these wines are the future for Vinho Verde. Sure, the quantity wines will always continue to sell and have their audience, but the quality needs to be put in marketing focus much more than gas and freshness. It's time for Vinho Verde to choose direction if they want to get rid of the prejudice the region after all is suffering from. Ultimately, Vinho Verde needs to raise awareness of the quality existing and work a lot more for the quality producers to receive acknowledgment and being paid properly for their products.

Sub-Região do Ave

Quality do exist in the huge region. There are many fine producers which focus on grape typicity and the terroir. They are the future of Vinho Verde. They should be the headliners in order to raise the general impression and confidence of the wines of the region. Perhaps that will generate a new consumer group and also promote an aspiration towards higher quality amongst others? Nobody knows but if nothing is done nobody will ever take the region seriously enough. It calls for a shift of marketing strategy though. The question is if there's a fundament for this in the promotion of the region and its wines? If quality is not paid for, all the farmers selling their grapes will go for the maximum yield. This calls for nutritious soils and hence fertilizing. Rich soils will result in low alcohol wines. It's a viscious circle. Who's prepared to break it? Best in show 2012 Allo, Soalheiro. A blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro. Impossible not to fall in love with the Allo. It both offers a mineral feel and a slight aromatic style. For an entry wine it shows good concentration and pure mineral driven fruit. But most of all, drink this just because it's a fun wine! Formidable. 2012 Alvarinho, Soalheiro. Grassy, herbal and expressive nose with a dash of flowers and white peaches. Mineral driven taste, with vivid fruit and dry, pure finish. Just bottled. Give it a few months to settle. Formidable. 2011 Alvarinho, Primeiras Vinhas, Soalheiro. Restrained, wet rocks and stone fruits on the nose. A class act on the palate. Mineral bite, dry, stone fruits, peaches and excellent concentration. One of the best ever. Lovely now but will age for a decade and improve. Brilliant. 2011 Alvarinho Reserva, Soalheiro. The barrique-aged Alvarinho from Soalheiro will probably divide consumers in two camps; those who doesn't get it - why oak and Alvarinho - and then those who just love the creamy structure. I belong to the latter group and think it plays an important role in showing the potential and diversity of Vinho Verde. Formidable. 2012 Alvarinho/Trajadura, Menanços, Solar de Serrade. This is how Trajadura should be treated, as a grape for blending. A stone fruits character wine, quite restrained showing wet rocks and a good dry finish. Not an expensive wine but representing a style I think more Vinho Verdes should be able to be like, skipping the gas feel. Passable. 2012 Alvarinho, Solar de Serrade. The top wine of the estate and the 2012 is probably their best effort so far. The vines on granitic soil are now more than 15 years old and the yield is kept low. Stone fruits, jasmine, wet rocks and herbs. Dry, expressive palate with flowers, a green scent which adds depth and long pure finish. Formidable. 2010 Alvarinho, Vinha Antiga, Provam. Not for everyone but the top wine of Provam has developed gracefully. Aged for 6 months in oak, this Alvarinho has a creamier structure although still keeping the mineral acidity. Good concentration, yellow fruits and modeling clay on both the nose and on the palate. Long finale. Formidable. 2012 Alvarinho, Quinte de Gomariz. An estate worth keeping an eye on. Quite expressive style of Alvarinho mixing floral and herbal scents. Dry with still youthful fruit acidity and good mineral grip. Give it a year before drinking a Gomariz Alvarinho. They settle gracefully. Formidable. 2012 Loureiro, Quinta de Gomariz. Quite restrained Loureiro which otherwise easily becomes quite floral. Wet rocks, lime peel and herbs. A grapefruit acidity, a slight touch of sweetness and herbal finish. Serious value here. Passable. Do you want to find any of the wines mentioned above? Use the wine-searcher box in the top right corner of the site. Feel free to comment, agree or disagree!

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A Secret Spot – 40 Years Old Moscatel

Niklas Jorgensen — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:22:53 +0000

"The vineyard location is a secret. Only 3 persons know the spot." Secret Spot Wines. Either its brilliant marketing of their products or actually a fact that the producer wishes to keep these vineyards hidden from others to get a hold on. However, they continue: "The spot colour in the capsule identifies the vineyard." One thing's for sure; Secret Spot Wines in Douro, run by Gonçalo Sousa Lopes and Rui Cunha, surely gets my attention. Yes, I'm curious but even more, their more than 40 years old Moscatel is a pretty insane wine! For some reason it's not cool to like the Muscat wines. I don't why but then, I'm a very uncool guy who besides these floral and sometimes perfumed wines, also dig Madeira. Guess my grandparents would have been proud of me. Then again, there's a huge difference between a Muscat d'Alexandrie and a Muscat à petit grains. The latter being the quality version of the Muscat and the one used at Secret Spot. Less aromatic, less perfume. Add vineyards at more than 500 meters above the sea level and you will have the much needed acidity as well. If the old Moscatel from Secret Spot was harvested earlier, in order to keep a higher acidity and freshness we will never find out. However, today this is how Lopes and Cunha works to retain a refreshing feeling when drinking the Moscatel wine. The 40+ years old Moscatel wine is as complex as a Muscat ever can be. Oranges, jasmin, moist tobacco, raisins and a dash of oriental spices. Slight volatility on the nose actually adds freshness. It's beautiful. On the palate a creamy texture with floral notes, tobacco, nuts and raisins in alcohol. A slightly bitter note, the one you feel in the orange peel, balances up the sweetness that's almost up at 200 grams of sugar per liter. Never too heavy although this isn't one of those you split with your better half a Friday evening. The finish is pure with wood notes and a orange like aftertaste. Is it resembling a Moscatel de Sétubal? To some extent yes. The Moscatel from Favaios has a refreshing character a Sétubal might lack so this one's for all that are freaking out when they spot the Muscat name on the bottle. This might be the coolest Muscat you'll ever drink. Well, that is if you don't try the 1875 and 1900 Moscatel Madeiras from d'Oliveiras. The Virtuoso Says: Find the wine? Use the wine-searcher box in the top right corner. NB. Quotes are from the website of Secret Spot Wines.

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Vindemio – A rising star in Ventoux

Niklas Jorgensen — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 15:26:46 +0000

It's a never-ending learning process. Wine that is. Twenty years of intense reading about wine, tasting and naturally visiting has only resulted in one insight I can be fully certain of; the fact I've only scratched the surface. Basically I'm still like Manuel - you know, the guy from Barcelona - and still know nothing. For some I suspect it could be a frustrating fact but for me age and two decades of accumulated knowledge has only brought humbleness - and even more curiosity. Wine knowledge is not about bragging, it's about constantly learning to the bitter end and along the way share with others in order to enthuse. After all, who wants to be a show off? Really? I'm at a masterclass in Avignon. The theme is Ventoux, an appellation I'm most curious about. It's easy to give up before even having started when you're dealing with an appellation of Ventoux size. To think it's probably just about quantity or 51 communes trying to steal a bit of the fame from its world famous western neighbor. That would be a huge mistake, to dismiss Ventoux (previously known as Côtes du Ventoux), and not follow what's about to happen here. Just the fact that a sixth of the more than 6,000 hectares of vineyard area in Ventoux are organically treated must indicate something. The first wine served at the masterclass is the 2011 Regain Blanc, a white consisting of mainly Clairette and a fifth of Grenache Blanc. Never heard of it. Slightly floral on the nose but balanced by cooler stone fruits. One thing's for sure, it gets my attention. On the palate the 2011 offers a restrained green apples character, good concentration, wet earth and a pretty long pure finale. I didn't catch the price first but later learned from the winemaker Jean Marot that it's retailing below a tener in France. At first I'm not sure if I should be glad or sad. Glad I could buy quality at these price levels. Sad because they are worth so, so much more. Vindemio Directly after the Ventoux lesson I'm heading over to meet the man behind Regain Blanc - Jean Marot - eager to learn more and hopefully have a talk with him. I'm lucky. Few know of him it seems, but instead flocks like a hord around the well-known names. The former winemaker at Domaine Le Murmurium in Ventoux decided to start his own business a couple of years ago – Vindemio. Differences in how Le Murmurium were to be run resulted in a sad departure but today he's back and his son Guillaume stands as owner of the family run Vindemio. Jean Marot is the epitome of a humble winemaker. He has nothing to prove to anyone and only follows his own beliefs. The Regain Blanc is an excellent example of that. I'm tasting through his portfolio which mainly consists of red wines, Grenache and Syrah based. The former pharmacist produces three reds, the Regain, Imagine and Amadeus. The reds from Jean were amongst the greatest discoveries at the Decouvértes tasting in Avignon, especially the Amadeus showed such quality that I'm quite sure a majority would recognize it as a Chateauneuf-du-Pape of superior quality. So, what's so special about the wines of Jean Marot's Vindemio? First of all, the wines shines of confidence. Jean's confidence. It's obvious he has a plan. Vindemio is run bio-dynamically although not certified. Jean has teamed up with seven other wineries in the Rhône Valley (Domaine La Cabotte, Mas d'Espanet, Ch. Fontvert, Dom. du Joncier, Dom. la Pequelette, Ch. Simian and Dom. des Coteaux des Travers) under the name Bio Dyn Dingues Donc. Sharing knowledge, trying to demystify bio-dynamics and simply promoting their wines as a group. Jean Marot's wines never sees any oak what so ever. Not even an old foudre. It's all about cement tanks and as Jean tells me "not disturbing the purity of the fruit." His vineyards are to be found at Mormorion which is located close to more well-known Flassan. The altitude adds a cooler fruit and also prolongs the season which means later harvests. Together with Jean's philosophy of striving for really phenolic ripe grapes it means harvests in October and even sometimes in November. All the grapes from the currently 15 hectares of vineyards are handpicked and results in powerful yet beautifully balanced wines. Amadeus, Imagine & Regain I know what you think. Late harvested wines of this type will suffer from a lack of acidity. Taste the Imagine or the 2011 Amadeus, wines with a yield at 20 hl/ha, vines dating up to 80 years back and be prepared to totally reformulate your thoughts on Ventoux. My first impressions is that of a traditional Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a Mont-Olivet for example. Just add more purity to the fruit, a cooler impression and a tannin structure which really is mouth-gripping in a good way. It's all about dark cherries, garrigue, wet earth, violets and a touch of smoke in the Amadeus. I've never tasted a better Ventoux than the 2011 Amadeus. It's concentrated, packed with fruit and loads of acidity. Yet it's shaped in a most drinkable way. never-ending finish. While the Amadeus is mainly old vines Grenache, Jean has also added a fifth old vines Syrah. The 2011 Imagine is equal parts of the both grapes and the most elegant wine in Vindemio's portfolio. Quite like the Amadeus but more herbal and adding a touch of red berries, primarily raspberries to the taste. Again, the wine indicates it's a keeper but it won't hurt you if you can't keep hands away. The red Regain would make many wines priced twice as much embarrased. This is all you want from a everyday wine. Purity in the dark fruit, herbs, smoked sausages, flowers, some tannin structure and a dry taste. Lots of garrigue and seductive as h-ll. Yes, it has a decent amount of alcohol but who cares? The balance is there. Finding stuff like this makes me happy. For those of you who already today can buy Vindemio; lucky you. Importers on the chase for the greatest find in 2013 - contact Jean Marot. Ventoux is on the move! 2012 samples were also tasted and they just confirm what greatness you will discover in 2011 of Vindemio. By the way, the name Vindemio translates to "I harvest." To find Jean Marot's wines, use the wine-searcher box in the top right corner of the page. Wonder about my scores? Then check out this.

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Domaine Aléofane; A New Crozes-Hermitage & Saint-Joseph Star?

Niklas Jorgensen — Wed, 27 Mar 2013 14:00:17 +0000

Few know of her, Natacha Chave. But if you're into Rhône, the Chave name probably made you curious. Natacha is the younger sister of Yann Chave and since a few years she produces a red Saint-Joseph and more recently she's added a Crozes-Hermitage to he portfolio. Natacha's wines goes under the name Domaine Aléofane and she's producing them both in the old premises of her older brother. By pure coincidence I bumped into her name when reading about Yann before my trip to the Rhône Valley and in Tain l'Hermitage I just had to meet her. After Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph is the second largest appellation in the north parts of Rhône. More than 150 producers are to be found here, competing for your attention. And today many deserves it. From having produced quite sturdy red wines, many St. Joseph's now add elegance. Of course the location of your parcel matters and in the case of Natacha she only has a small 1.5 hectares plot in the appellation. A good spot though, with old vines on the granite filled soil. I'm tasting the 2011 Saint Joseph with her and it is pretty seductive. The identification marks are there; violets, spices, smoked sausages and blackcurrants mixed with a dash of raspberries. But the spices are more of the oriental kind and the fruit is pure and inviting. I love this wine. Oozing wet rocks with a dash of smoke, then that gorgeous violet scent, the clean berry taste and the long taste. Excellent structure and will keep and evolve for probably 7-8 years. The 2011 Crozes-Hermitage is a new addition and comes from even older vines. I normally don't like to speak in terms of whether a wine is a great find or not - quality price ratio speaking - but in this case it's simply impossible to not mention Natacha's 2011 which delivers a very vintage typical wine with a cool nose and restrained fruit, lovely herbal notes, violets, iron taste (bite yourself in the tongue if you lack the reference....) and raspberries. It will keep for sure and should be allowed to just settle for half a year or so, but believe me, it's impossible to keep hands off this one. Buy a case! Try to find the wines of Domaine Aléofane. They are true expressions of what can emanate from Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph of today. If you're an importer this is a must-visit winery! Find the wines of Natacha? Use the wine-searcher box in the top right corner of the page. If you're in UK, Genesis Wines have already found Aléofane. Wonder about the scores? It's simply my way of making wine fun and less about numbers! Check it out here.

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