Like many other grape varieties, Sauvignon Blanc has strong “roots” based in France.  In 1968, French Sauvignon Blanc was the 13th most planted white variety rising to 3rd by the year 2000 (behind only Ugni Blanc and Chardonnay).   This increase in plantings was largely in part due to the development of better suited clones and sprays to combat black rot and powdery mildew.   Today we can find this variety in multiple regions throughout France and across the world.

This white grape variety, although successful in its own right, has also had a part to play with another variety.  Along with Cabernet Franc, it is the parent to Cabernet Sauvignon, with which it shares an herbaceous quality.  In addition to this descriptor, Sauvignon Blanc is also recognized as being grassy, green fruit (especially gooseberries) nettles, or blackcurrant leaves, and a classic description: “cat pee on a goose berry bush.”  I know this doesn’t sound like anything appealing, and honestly I’ve never in my life smelled cat pee on a goose berry bush, but, trust me,  this really is a great wine.

Some drawbacks to this variety are that the vine is particularly vigorous and if left unchecked can produce an excessively herbaceous and rank wine.  Also, Sauvignon Blanc can taste oily when raised in too warm a climate and fails to develop the full aromatics reminiscent of its variety (may only have hints of peach).  Most Sauvignon Blanc is meant to be drunk young although some with more oak need a couple of years in bottle to fully integrate.  As they bottle age, they develop vegetal notes of asparagus and peas, which can be enjoyed by some. Personally, I like the youthful qualities of these wines.

If Chardonnay is the ruling white variety of Burgundy, then Sauvignon Blanc is truly home in Loire Valley, especially Central Vineyards. The wines of this area demonstrate a flinty characteristic and, like most French wines, are named for the area rather than variety.  Such names as Sancerre (where it can be known as Blanc Fumé), Pouilly Fumé, and the western Satellites of Quincy, Reuilly, and Menetou-Salon can be recognized on the label.  It has even spread further west into Touraine and even Anjou, where it is sometimes blended with Chenin Blanc.

Moving southwest to Bordeaux, we find Sauvignon Blanc in a dual role.  In Entre du Mers and Graves it is similar to that of Loire with its crisp acidity but with less integrated complexity and steely minerality.  For this reason, it is often blended with Sémillon to add body.  On store shelves you can see this as Graves, Entre du Mers and even the Bordeaux AC label for a white wine.  These wines are mostly, and sometimes completely, Sauvignon Blanc and usually represent a good value.  On the other side of the coin, Sauvignon Blanc is a component of the sweet botrytis affected wines (blended with Sémillon and Muscadelle) found in areas of Sauternes, Barsac and Sainte Croix du Mont.  The Sauvignon Blanc’s acidity is used to balance the sweetness of these unctuous and long-lived wines.

South West France shows examples of Sauvignon Blanc in Bergerac, Cotes du Marmandais, and Cotes de Duras.  Even in the Mediterranean climate of southern France, Sauvignon Blanc emerges in the Vin de Pays areas of Languedoc-Roussillon and is even found in some Provençial appellations.

This grape, as do many others, has its history in France but has found a home making quality wine in many other parts of the world. Northern Italian areas of Friuli and Alto Adige express a more pungent example of Sauvignon Blanc.  Imported into Spain many years ago, it has found success in Rueda and Torres.  Even areas as far away as South Africa and Australia, especially in cooler areas such as Elgin and Darling, S.A. and Adelaide Hills, A.U., have produced some stellar examples.

In the New World, Sauvignon Blanc has made a home in California, where, in the 1980s, Robert Mondavi renamed the variety Fumé Blanc (designated oak aged) as a marketing venture.  It caught on with a fever and Sauvignon Blanc was here to stay.  In the warmer areas of California, these wines tend to be heavier on the palate compared to its old world expression.  Washington State also makes both Sauvignon and Fumé Blanc, but with the cooler climate, it tends to be a compromise between the California and French wines.   The New World area to watch is Chile.  The Maule and Casablanca regions have started to have some impressive results with their Sauvignon Blanc.

Loire Valley aside, the Sauvignon Blanc variety has enjoyed some of its greatest success in New Zealand.  This variety is credited with launching New Zealand into the spotlight of world wine culture.  When New Zealand began planting Sauvignon Blanc, they had the benefits of climate, old world knowledge, and experimented with varying levels of barrel maturation and fermentation, picking at varying levels of ripeness, and canopy management styles.  These “experiments” paid off with the country now being on the cutting edge of canopy management and creating a style of Sauvignon Blanc (herbaceous, pungent, acidic, aromas of capsicum, cut grass, elderflower, stony minerality, and sometimes hints of passion fruit) that even some French wineries  now emulate.

These wines also make great partners with food, a quality I love in a wine.  The type of Sauvignon Blanc, herbaceous and grassy or citric, determines the food pairings.  A cooler climate Sauvignon Blanc goes well with sashimi, oysters, clams, light fish, chicken, and veal dishes.  Where the more “grapefruity” and citrus forward wines are good with oily fishes, vegetal dishes like asparagus, tomatoes, onions, and feta cheese.  Keep in mind, Sauvignon Blanc, with its high acid, does not play well with dishes filled with butter or cream.  Try picturing a mixture of lemonade and milk.  Of course, you could always just chill it down and enjoy it with nothing but a hot summer’s day.  Enjoy!!

Food by Chef Adam Silverman
Wine by Dennis Fraley
Menu and wine:

Warm Potato Blini topped with Creme Fraiche and Alaskan Caviar
(Cava Brut, Penedes, Spain, NV)

Cobia Cerviche with Grilled Corn and Sweet Potato Vinaigrette
(Chenin Blanc / Viognier, California 2010)

Intermezzo of Pomander Sorbet

Paella Codorniz – Rice in Zesty Red Pepper & Tomato Sauce with Grilled Quail
(Tempranillo / Granaha, Rioja, Spain, 2009)

Oven Roasted Bosc Pear stuffed with Gorgonzola Cheese, Wrapped in Proscuitto Ham and Drizzled with 25 year Aged Balsamic Vinegar
(10 year Tawny Port)

Some of the confusion associated with this grape is similar with other varieties, that being multiple names for the same variety.  This grape is known by Steen in South Africa, Pinot Blanco in South America and even in its most classic region, Loire Valley, it is sometime referred to as Pineau.  In Loire, as in most of France, we see the wines being labeled by area rather than variety.  So, in this classic area of Loire, Chenin Blanc can be seen on labels as:  Anjou, Bonnezeaux, Chinon, Coteaux du Layon, Jasnières, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Quarts de Chaume, Saumur and Savennières.  I know at this point, you are saying “how am I going to keep all that straight?”  Don’t fret, it’s a process.  As my instructor told me: “It’s like eating and elephant,…one bite at a time.”

In the New World, countries like the United States, Australia, and South Africa have long used this grape as a bulk wine, especially in hot areas when its ability to retain its natural acidity makes it an excellent blending partner.  It does, however, have the disadvantage of ripening unevenly, so when unripe grapes are included, it will tend to give a leafy and vegetal component to the wine.  Over recent years, some areas of California and South African have begun to treat this variety with more respect and care, finding promising results.  We can now readily find single varietal Chenin Blanc wines from California, South Africa , and more recently from Austraila and New Zealand at a myriad of quality levels.  For California, I would look to the Clarksburg (Yolo County) and Monterey County areas.  And for South Africa, I have been pleasantly surprised with Ken Forrester in Stellenbosch area.

This grape truly finds it potential in France, where its versatility is recognized to the point of sometimes being called France’s answer to Germany’s Riesling.  The classic area for Chenin Blanc is the Loire Valley.  Here, we seen the grape is used in a multitude of ways and at varying sugar levels: from Saumur and Savennières (very dry), Anjou-Saumur and Touraine (Vouvray) (off-dry), and dessert wines in Côteaux du Layon and subregions of Bonnezeaux and Quartes de Chaume; some of these being botrytis affected.  Even the traditional method sparkling wines, Crémant de Loire, made mostly in Saumur and Vouvray, have their base wine from Chenin Blanc.

No matter the style, a certain floral, honeyed character, along with a balanced, crisp acidity, are the trademarks of well-made Chenin Blanc.  I have also seen it described as “leafy” (probably from under-ripe grapes), wet wool, apples, pears, and even “wax lips.”  For me, it reminds me of peanut butter and honey sandwiches.  It’s interesting how some smells can take up to a different time and place; one of the reasons I love food and wine.

If you are unfamiliar with the variety, or you have had a wine made from the Chenin Blanc that was “less than exciting”, I beg you to explore (or re-explore) these wines.  They can be extremely unique and highly rewarding.  In my opinion, a well made Chenin Blanc can be one of the sexiest white wines in the world.  If that isn’t enough to convince you, check for a heartbeat.  Keep drinking and exploring.  Cheers!

For those of you looking for a pairing with lamb for Easter, the true traditionalists, I am in your corner. Lamb for me requires a red to stand up to the stronger flavors of this delicious meat. One could go old world red from Northern Rhone. The Syrah in the northern Rhone is more restrained than new world but absolutely sexy. I would say Crozes-Hermitage. A new would Syrah from Australia would also work. Just remember, this is going to be a big, bold wine so fat is your friend here. These new world syrahs work better if there is a red or black fruit component to the dish. I have also had excellent results with Argentinian Malbec and lamb.

My overall recommendations are: make both some ham and lamb. Start with the reisling and Beaujolais Village with the ham. Move on to the lamb with some Shiraz or Syrah (new world or old world) and some malbec. Take a nap then emerge for some chocolate dessert with some port. That would make for a great holiday. Cheers.

Let me first say that this is a subject with a huge amount of information that entire books have been written.  For the sake of time, we will limit our topic to North American Whiskey.  These whiskies share much in common but the subtle differences are what make the end product unique to each spirit.

Overall, to be called a (straight) whiskey in North America, it must meet certain guidelines.  It must contain a minimum of 51% and a maximum of 80% of one grain in its mash bill.  The spirit must be distilled to a maximum of 80% alcohol by volume (abv) and aged a minimum of 2 years in new charred oak barrels.  Also, whiskies that are less than 4 years old must state the age on the label.  Blended whiskies, on the other hand, must contain only 20% straight whiskey.  The remaining portion is usually inexpensive neutral grain spirit.

Whiskey with a more specific title, such as rye whiskey or Tennessee whiskey, must meet all the regulations applied to straight whiskey in addition to other certain criteria.  Rye whiskey, for example, must be made with a mash bill of not less than 51% rye.  Tennessee whiskey, by definition, must be distilled in Tennessee and use the “Lincoln County Process.”   This process involves the spirit being filtered through a column of maple wood charcoal before the ageing process.

Canadian whiskey is much more liberal in their rules for labeling.  First, there are no restrictions as far as the grains in the mash.  Usually, corn is the majority with some rye for added flavor.  As expected, the spirit must be distilled in Canada and must possess “the aroma, taste, and character of a Canadian whiskey.”  This obviously leaves some room for interpretation.  The surprising nuance is that the final product may include portions (up to 2%) of any neutral grain spirit, sherry or even fruit based wines and still be labeled as Canadian whiskey.

Since I live in the south, I saved Bourbon for last.  Although extremely popular with the south eastern United States, bourbon can be made anywhere in the country.  These straight whiskies must contain a minimum of 51% maize (typically 70%) with the common use of wheat and rye for the balance.  They are stored in a hot warehouse that accelerates the ageing process, extracting tannins, sugar, color and the typical coconut and vanilla flavors from the wood.  Sugar is not a permitted addition, so it’s the wood extracts breaking down during the ageing process that creates this naturally sweet spirit. Unlike Scotch whiskies, where caramel can be added, all the color must come from the ageing process.

Although this just scratches the surface of defining the group of spirits we call whiskey, I hope it helps clarify the components, rules and differences of this tasty beverage.  No matter if you prefer yours “neat”, on the rocks, or mixed in your favorite cocktail, spring is a wonderful time to relax with a glass of American heritage, whiskey.  Cheers!

Spain’s version of sparkling wine made by the traditional method is known as Cava.  The majority is produced from the Catalan vineyards of Penedès with some production in Rioja,  Navarra, and Utiel-Requena.  The rules of production enforce the traditional method and the wines must spend a minimum of 9 months in bottle before disgorgement.  Another interesting fact is the cork must bear a four-pointed star on its base.  As you would expect, the grape varieties are different from what we find in the Champagne region. The grapes used here are Macabeo (relatively neutral in flavor), Xarel-lo (strong earthy flavor), and Parellada (mild apple flavor).  Most Cava is dry with low acidity and unlike Champagne, are not made for ageing.

South Africa has its version of traditional style sparkling wine called “Cap Classique” (older name is Vonkelwijn).  It’s a generic term for any wine in the Cape that is produced by the traditional method.   The only mandatory criteria is that these wines must have 12 months on the lees (yeast sediment ).  Here we see a variety of grapes used individually or in differing blends. These varieties include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, along with Pinotage, Shiraz, and Chenin Blanc.

As we mentioned, France reserves the term “Champagne” for traditional method sparkling wine made within the Champagne region.  What about all the other French regions that make sparkling wines by traditional method and are outside Champagne?  These share the name Crémant.  Stricter production controls came about for these wines in 1975 determining the proportion of grape varieties in the blend, yields of juice and the rule of a minimum of 9 months on the lees. The regions distinguish themselves by placing the name of the region in the title but the grape varieties vary from region to region.  These wines are made from the grapes that make the best still wines of the region with some examples including: Crémant de Alsace (Pinot Blanc and Riesling), Crémant de Bourgogne (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), Crémant de Limoux (Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Mauzac), and Crémant de Loire (Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc).

With all of these Champagne alternatives, we can experiment with sparkling wines from different countries and with different  grape varieties without compromising quality or breaking the bank. So, I encourage you to try these “non-Champagne” sparkling wines. And remember, sparkling wines are good anytime, life is a celebration!

Riesling, one of the “noble” varieties, has lost favor with the masses over the last 10-15 years. This is largely in part due to the over production of inexpensive, over chaptalized (added sugar), mass marketed, bulk, quaffable swill. I know that sounds harsh, but it is what it is. The wine marketing was focused toward the “soda-pop generation” that they assumed were looking for a sweet alcoholic beverage to swig down at gatherings. Partly, this was true and they sold a lot of wine.

Along the way, however, the true essence of Riesling was almost lost. The better quality wines were still being made, but the American mass market was not embracing them.  At the time, people were drinking big, rich, over-the-top California Cabs, and Riesling was looked at as a “weaker” wine. I think this stated weakness is really its strength, namely its subtly and restraint.

Now, years later, something has changed. Whether it was the American wine drinker finally evolved or marketing got smarter, the Riesling grape is again attempting to gain a place among the American wine drinkers. With its low alcohol (usually in the range of 7.5 – 9% for German Rieslings due to cold climate) and age ability in bottle (due to good extract and high acidity), they have the potential to fill the needs of many wine drinking situations.

When we say “Riesling”, most will think of Germany, which makes sense since it has been cultivated, consumed and made popular here for centuries.  Riesling’s cold hardiness is suited for the German climate and with its naturally high tartaric acid; any residual sugar is balanced with finesse. This versatile grape can be made dry (low residual sugar), sweet, botrytis affected (noble rot), made sparkling, (Sekt), or harvested as frozen berries for Eiswein.

Often when we think of Riesling, Germany is the first country that comes to mind.  This varietal has, quite ubiquitously, made its way over every continent that makes wine.  In Alsace, France, once part of Germany, there are some amazing examples of Riesling. Alsatian Riesling has a tendency to be mostly dry but there are some excellent examples of sweeter Riesling. Label terms such as, “Vendange Tardive” (meaning “Late Harvest”) and “Sélection De Graines Nobeles”  (meaning “Selection of Nobly Rotten Grapes”) tell us of these sweeter examples containing alcohol levels of 14% and 16% respectively.  In Luxembourg, just across the German Border, we see a Riesling closer to Alsace style than German style. There are also examples in the Czech Republic, Austria, Italy (Alto Adige and Friuli), Switzerland, Slovakia, and all over Eastern Europe.

Riesling has also crossed the ocean from Europe in both directions. New Zealand is beginning to show promising examples in Marlborough and Nelson. On the other side of the world, in the southern hemisphere, Chile and Argentina are taking a crack at Riesling cultivation. Further north Riesling has found a home in Canada, New York State, Washington State and some in California.

With all of these areas and different styles, how does one make a decision on what to buy? Knowing some label terms will greatly improve your chance for success.  First, is recognizing what is true Riesling and what is not.  Some label terms for “true” Riesling are Rhineriesling (Austria), Johannisberg Riesling, Weisser, or White Rhine.  While bottle terms like Welschriesling, Riesling Italico, Laski Riesling, and Olasz Riesling are NOT true Riesling.

Another helpful set of label terms are those associated with the level of sweetness.   The following are some German bottle terms that will help make your wine selections a bit easier. They are in increasing order of must weights (sugar concentration of grapes at harvest). The term Troken (meaning dry) can be placed after these descriptions to let us know the wine has been fermented to dryness.  Remember, that a grape with higher sugar, fermented to dryness, will have a higher alcohol percentage.

German Bottle Terms:

Kabinett

• Great as aperitifs
• Light in body, crisp acidity, green apple and citrus fruits

Spatlese

• Means late harvest
• More concentrated flavors and more body vs. Kabinett style
• Riper flavors: more citrus, pineapple, and/or mango

Auslese

• Means selected harvest
• Made from individually selected ripe berries
• Some made as a richer, riper Spatlese
• Some made very sweet with botrytis character
• Good value for botrytis wine (compared to Beerenauslese and Trokenbeerenauslese)

Eiswein

• Literally means ice-wine
• Made from grapes left on the vine until the temperature reaches 18F (-8C)
• Harvested sometimes as late as January
• Grapes pressed and frozen water removed leaving concentrated sweet juice
• Sugar content must be at least equal to Beerenauslese (usually no botrytis)
• Concentrated fruit and high acidity

Beerenauslese (BA)

• More rare and expensive wine made for hand selected grapes
• Grapes affected by noble rot (botrytis)
• Not permitted to be harvested mechanically
• Deep golden color and taste of honey soaked rasins

Trokenbeerenauslese (TBA)

• The ripest and rarest
• Produced in minute quantities in only the best vintages
• Grapes individually selected (botrytis affected)
• Not allowed to be harvested mechanically
• Deep golden orange in color
• Very expensive

I hope that you now have a greater appreciation for this misunderstood and richly versatile variety.  So, if you like sweet wine or dry wine, sparkling or still, Riesling has something special to offer you. Get out to the store and start exploring the underappreciated world of Riesling.
Cheers!

The Wine of Origin (W.O.) is a structural designation that a wine boasts with a certification seal on the bottle. This seal guarantees the bottle was tasted by an independent panel. If the vintage is stated, 75% must be from the stated year (85% if sold in the EU). If a variety is stated, 75% must be from the stated grape (85% if sold in the EU). The strictest guideline is that 100% of the grapes must come from the stated production area.

If you have not had a S.A. wine lately, I would encourage you to try one. If reds are your thing, I recommend trying Pinotage (which is a grape that resulted from a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. If a sweeter white is more your speed, the Muscat of Alexandria grape (called Hanepoot here) makes stunning dessert wines, with one of the best examples being Vin de Constance.

I plan on doing a future class on S.A. wines so stay posted. Leave your e-mail address or subscribe to the RSS feed on the homepage. Thanks.

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