Hellier Train Care

Current progress

2014-09-10T20:40:00.001+01:00

Well things are slowly progressing.
I have now preped the rest of the first board with a coating of pva and woodland scenics earth coat to give it a nice soil like undercoat, I have added soom woodland scenics sun kissed trees in front of the houses along with some bushes and 2mm static grass, the roads on the board have been surfaced with gaugemaster black scatter, and the pavement has been started with the superquick papers glued to thin strips of balsa.

And thanks to a work collegue I have the flashing warning lights for the level crossing running of a 9v battery.

Well thats it for now, need to get some security fencing to go round the depot which will be the ratio stuff, also need to put more static grass down and touch up some ballast, will post more as it happens.

Rolling stock storage

2014-08-17T19:22:00.001+01:00

So I was getting somewhat irritated by having to constantly box and unbox rolling stock everytime I wanted to change a rake of wagons or coaches, so I decided to use some unused tesco vouchers and got myself a nice 6 drawer storage unit, that idealy fits under my layout, which was not easy.

Though its not perfect because the stock rolls about in the drawers when opening and closing it, so I also have some sheets of foam on order to sit in the bottom of the drawers to stop the movement, and of couse I may add more if needed to pad the front and back.

It is at least making it easier to alter the trains running about.

DCC Decoder v3 Firmware

2014-06-17T20:04:00.004+01:00

Well I have been working on my arduino based DCC Decoded and am proud to announce that I have been able to create a firmware update ~~Link Removed~~.
This enable a couple of features on my pcb's which have had slight rewiring due to my silly errors.

I still need to correct a few errors (such as a recently occurring servo chatter) but most seems to work fine.

New Features include push button programming (in a similar fashion to train tech signal where you press a button and it takes the next address thats pressed)
LED to show when in programming mode
EEprom utilization to remember address when powered off

Changes to come
Push button adjustment of servo movement limit (may require new PCB version or control board)

PCB Changes
Added Reference ground
Changed pushbutton resistor connection
Removed 3 unusable pin headers
Corrected resistors outlays for 1/4w resistors
Added GND and 5v layers

If anyone would like a copy of my new pcb and the updated list of components required please let me know

Upgrades to the 33

2014-03-05T22:33:00.001+00:00

So after a bit of time with the Class 33, I found that I was constantly having to clean the wheels to keeps it running, though recently I found Howes (Heljans uk spares dealer) Did replacement wheelsets made out of Nickle Silver or similar (whatever they use now for making wheels) for the class 33 and other 4 axle locos made by heljan.

So first thing is to take the bogies baseplate off, now though this is quite tricky, you can do it by using a small jewellers screwdriver set at which point the wheels are easy to access and can just be lifted out without causing issues to the gearing.

At which point you end up with something similar to the above, now the next thing I need to do is replace the bulbs that are factory installed with led's but this may be trickier as I need to figure out the bulbs voltages and replace with appropriate 3mm leds and the required resistors.

More to come after the wheels are installed.

Starting from scratch

2013-09-23T22:21:00.000+01:00

No, don't read too much into that title, it just means track laying is complete though ballasting is still needed on the yard tracks.

It actually links to the fact that I am now starting to slowly add buildings, the first being a scratchbuilt building to cover up some point motors.

The 'Rats Nest' to cover up.

So I have made a template building out of plasticard (.30 thou from work though any will probably do).

This so far is roofless and has a slot in the wall facing the tract to allow the point rodding to go through.

The basic plasticard template

Now as I said, this is just a temporary mock up, the final will be made either from slaters, south eastern finecast or wills stone sheeting, now as can be seen already, even without a roof it looks much better, so imagine what the final result may look like, and then tell me as I still haven't fully decided what the building will be, though a water tower is likely at this point in time.

But now I have stuff running, and until my layout expands (requiring me moving out) the trains are limited in size to short freight, passenger trains.

So to finish, a picture of the track fully laid with some trains running

Current overview of the layout, along with control panel on draw runners to hide it under layout when not in use.

The final name change

2013-08-22T19:02:00.001+01:00

Well after some thinking and consideration, I have decided the final name for my layout will be Hellier Train Care.

It will be a small train care facility that can act as a service point for locomotives of all types (bar electric, as currently there are no electrified lines in the south west)

It will remain based between Taunton and Yeovil and will be able to, for now only fuel up diesels, but its shop will be able to handle steam locos to do minor service between specials, I may also have it as stabling point for a heritage loco (that may or may not have been preserved in real life).

I would also like it to have a turntable, but I believe that at the moment with size constraints it's unlikely, however when it (I) gets a larger home and the layout is expanded.

At that point I will most likely be able to add more onto it and hopefully the train care facility will make up only a small fraction.

The Price of decoder parts

2013-07-23T20:59:00.001+01:00

Well, the decoder is almost complete (trying to find the right headers to connect the servo to the board), and so far I have found out how much all this would cost me, knowing what I know now, and this is just for parts.

Below is a list of parts plus the prices

Product Code	Quantity	Product Description	Unit Price	Discounts	Line Total
22-0822	11	3 Way 2.54mm Kk Molex Housing	£0.13	£0.00	£1.40
58-0598	1	6n137 Highspeed Logic Gate Optocoupler	£0.79	£0.00	£0.79
64-0098	1	10k Cr12 0.125w Cf Resistor - Pack of 100	£0.69	£0.00	£0.69
47-3416	5	1n4148 Signal Diode 75v 150ma (tru)	£0.01	£0.00	£0.05
85-3077	1	12vdc 2.5 AMP International Plug Top Psu	£15.92	£0.00	£15.92
20-0960	1	Switchcraff DC Power Socket PCB Mount 2.1mm	£0.65	£0.00	£0.65
08-0919	2	1uf 2.5mm Y5v Dielect Ceramic Capacitor	£0.11	£0.00	£0.21
Nov-28	5	220µF 20% 35V 105°C Low Impedance Radial Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor	£0.22	£0.00	£1.10
47-3313	1	7805 Regulator To-220 (tru)	£0.35	£0.00	£0.35
22-0545	1	TruConnect Single Row Header 36-Way (PCB) Plug	£0.20	£0.00	£0.20
78-0282	1	Omron Tactile PCB Switch B3F-1050 6x6 Projected	£0.32	£0.00	£0.32
21-3000	1	2 Way 10a Terminal Block 3.5mm	£0.13	£0.00	£0.13
				Order Subtotal	£21.81
				Delivery Charge	£3.99
				VAT	£5.16
				Order Grand Total	£30.96

These prices, however do not include the price of the boards and getting them printed $25.00 for three which included free shipping to the uk somehow.

Then there was the price of the initial Arduino, £10 or near enough from ebay.

And then as many servos as you like (supports up to 11 per board, so maybe £55.00 worth depending what ones you get and from where)

So considering this all adds up to about £40.00 just for the parts listed, then the time to write the program for the Arduino (add the extra £10-20 depending on your source) and you are looking at probably around £70.00 for the whole thing (oh, better add another powersupply just for the arduino which would up it to £85.92)

And for all that you could I suppose get two standard decoders made by company such as digitrax, or esu/bachmann which would do the same as this if not more.

Though having said that, I am glad I've made it, but will not be going any further with it as it is just too costly to contine on with and It would require me to swap all my points from seeps to servos or use a relay module with an adjusted program to run them.

So to summerise

Am I glad I did this? Yes as it allowed me to learn new things

Would I do it again? Maybe, but not in this iteration

Dcc decoder v2 shield

2013-07-18T19:54:00.001+01:00

Although I haven't updated much for a while, I have been working on things in the backround such as a printed shield for the dcc decoder scriot i am writing for the arduino.
So far I am on my second prototype but it will be the first with any components, mainly as the original was missing a route.
Now the good thing is that you do not have to use it with dcc, but can use it with pushbuttons (omit some components and change a few linea of code.)

The first picture is of the original prototype. PCB, this one although could be used missed a connection to jp9 which meant that I would only be able to attach 10 instead of 11 servos to it.

The second picture shows the updated version, this has been fixed so all 11 servos can be attached and used. It also, as you may have noticed, got a few more component holes on it, this is to facilitate a learn button for reprogramming, as well as to incorporate the required components to reduce a 12v supply to a 5v supply.

All the components. I need to assemble the shield are on order from rapid, and once assembled, I will update with images of the finished shield, once that is done, I will need to alter some of the programming to allow for the arduino to remember the previous set base id as well as allowing it to be re programmedgrammed

Big Update

2013-04-19T21:55:00.001+01:00

Been awhile since my last update, so pardon me if this one is a bit long.
First off the class 20 conversion is well underway, the original loco has been stripped and had new fuel tanks, lights and mu sockets fitted

External Fuel tanks mk1, I have slightly redone them since the above picture was taken for a better fit.

Bath time! Class 20 goes for a dip in Precision Paints paint stripper

Stripped loco with test fit fuel tanks

Fuel tanks glued on sporting mainly trains rivet strip along the bottom
Wipac Lights fitted on both ends along with MU (multiple unit) sockets

I have also added to my tunnel by spraying the ends grey (mixture of railmatch rail grey and humbrol dirty black) before adding smoke marks where locomotives would pass under. (Not pictured but will add later)

I have also started the process of adding people to my pullman coaches (mainly by taking two apart).

The figures will be purchased in the next few weeks.

Devon Belle Observation Car an The New Century bar car with bodies removed.

Will the pullman coaches I am also tempted to remove their current capacitors (220uf) and replace them with higher capacity ones perhaps around the 500 mark to remove the flickering that happens on some of them.

All for now

Happy Modelling

Building a DCC Decoder

2013-03-02T12:52:00.000+00:00

For some time I've been considering various ways of controlling points, the one thing that keeps coming back to me is to operate them through DCC, but perhaps also link it to a control panel that will allow me to combine it with the toggle Switch method.

For some time I've been looking at Arduinos and they may do what I need them to do.

So far I've got a basic circuit and code set up, all thats needed is a servo to Test, which is on order, I shall perhaps upload a video once its all working.

Though I'm sure some people may like to see whats been done so far.

The Circut for the monitor which allows the Arduino to see whats going on
Myna Bay DCC Monitor

An Arduino Uno, any Arduino can be used for this, though its easier if you can attach shields to it

The Prototype shield set up with the DCC Monitor Circuit

Now although Myna bay Provides a DCC monitor code to load onto the Arduino, it doesn't help us much as it only provides binary feedback.

The better Monitor to use is included with the NMRA DCC Arduino Library here (It is also included in the code for the Decoder) as it tells you whats accessory has been called and is better to code with.

Now I'm not putting up the assembly steps for the monitor because it should be easy enough by reading the circuit diagram and comparing it against my picture, (note, you may need to change DCCAckPin in the NMRA example to 2 or just change the jumper cable from pin 2 to 3)

The code I have compiled so far can be downloaded ~~here~~ (download includes additional librarys that are not included with the Arduino Programmer, just extract to your sketchbook folder and it will maintain its architecture)

As of yet I have not been able to test the code but it should™ work, Currently I am waiting on a servo to test it and I'll add a video once I have it working.

1/12/13
Edit, I have re uploaded the decoder sketch, and should work now without any errors

9/2/14
Edit, Link was pointing to a file that no longer exists, this has now been fixed, new version also uploaded solving issues that meant servo would not respond to its adress

Route Indicator Update

2013-02-22T19:11:00.002+00:00

Though I havn't actually installed them yet I thought it may be worth doing a little update on my route indicator circuits since last time I photographed it, it has been slimmed down and it has also been suggested to me to upload a copy of the circuit diagram, so here goes.

Circuit Diagram from RMweb for point indicator diagram using frog polarity

Track side of Tripad Board

Component side of Tripad board

The main difference between these and my early prototype is that I've slimmed it down into 3 rows instead of 4 and the wires are now fed through the holes in the board to be soldered on the copper clad side.

On all of the boards I made up, I also got into the habit of using a digital multimeter to ensure that power flowed through each part of the circuit as it should.

I am at this point considering buying the required components to make more and perhaps sell them as well, but this depends if anyone would be interested in buying them.

Route Indicator Circuit

2013-01-27T17:05:00.000+00:00

So for some time I've been trying to come up with a simple way of indicating what direction a point is set too without too much trouble, fortunately I cam across this post on rmweb regarding using bi-color leds with electrofrog points.

Now the idea stayed floating in my head for some time, given that I had tried it with individual leds first but it wasn't quite something I was happy with.

Though as mentioned as I came across the post I decided to give it a go so I got all the items I needed from maplins.

Those being a breadboard, leds (bi-color type) resistors, tripad board, the diodes I already had from another project.

How the circuit appears on a breadboard

Then The process begins of putting it on a tripad board (like stripboard but each each track is separated into 3 holes)

Copper Track Side of circuit board

Component Side of circuit board.

Now you may have noticed there's no led on the finished board, thats what the orange and gray wires are for as they will go to the led mounted in the control panel.

The blue wire comes from the polarity switch in the point motor and the red and black returns to the dcc wires.

How this works is when the frog is set to the red polarity it will return through the black as power will get used by the led and vice versa and the diodes stop the circuit shorting out, and if the led shows the wrong colour I simply swap it round.

The Fleet so Far

2013-01-03T20:56:00.001+00:00

For some time I have been hunting for a decently priced display cabinet for my locomotives to be displayed in.
Some luck came when I came across one for £29.99 in Lidls, and that is the one shown above, and for the price, it is quite sturdy and well constructed and as such is good for displaying my fleet of locomotives which are as following (from top to bottom and left to right)
Hornby Taunton Castle from Date with The Duchy Set
Bachmann Class 20 BR Green Sound
Heljan Class 33 EWS
Hornby Class 142 Pacer Great Western
Hornby 1400 (number 4819) GWR
Bachmann Tornado
Bachmann Class 170 in SWT
Bachmann Class 24 br Green Sound
and finally Hornby Class 56 in EWS.

They all get used and unless they are a multiple unit (IE Class 142 and 170) usually end up being run with a specific set of coaches or wagons, though it is not uncommon to have one set of wagons or coaches for 2 or 3 locomotives, that is untill I procure some rolling stock for the specific locomotive.

One other thing to add, I am renaming the layout to the Woodbury Line, which for arguments sake I will set somewhere between Yeovil and Taunton allowing all my current stock to be usable on it.

It has a name

2012-11-28T22:41:00.000+00:00

Finally, after much deliberation, I have come up with a name for my railway.

The idea came to me at work while talking with one the volunteers we have helping out.

So after a bit of fiddling I finally came upon the name for the railway.

From this day forth, it shall be the unknown railway no more, It's name will be the Deltrats Line (and yes that's startled in reverse which is how I felt when I started it all).

Running back and Forth

2012-11-17T20:41:00.000+00:00

Quick update first regarding my last post.

The problem regarding the track constantly needing cleaning is solved (amazing how a plug not fully connected can affect the running of a layout).

So onto the main subject of the post.
I have got myself an Autocoach and B set Coach to run behind my 14XX, a few things are needed to be done.

First step in a lot of coach rebuilds/repairs is to completely disassemble said coach.

Autocoach Fully Disassembled, front shows both bogies and broken under frame detailing.
Middle shows base and weight for coach.
Back is clearly the coach and roof is removed and loosely placed back on top

First things I plan to do is re-wheel the bogies with metal wheels (which is why they are currently missing), repair the broken part of the under-frame.

I will also look at weathering the under-frame and the bottom of the coach.
Finally I will add detail to the inner of the coach, added painted seats and passengers.
Once finished with the autocoach I will also look at balancing the 14XX so it doesn't bounce up and down when going backward.

Tunneling through

2012-11-06T14:47:00.001+00:00

Well, the ballasting is now more or less complete (places that don't have it at the moment, probably won't ever have it)
There's a few problems yet to be solved (such as why after 12 hours a clean track need cleaning to allow you to run anything).

As you may be able to guess I am now starting on the landscaping of my layout, as with everything it will be modular

I glue triangles or card to what will be the inner tracks tunnel wall which will help reinforce the roof when fully assembled.

The tunnel mouth is next, where I take a series of measurements from the track and loco heights to craft a twin track tunnel mouth wide enough for two passenger trains to happily go through.

Although not pictured I have put reinforcements on the top of the tunnel mouth for the tunnel roof, I have also put extra reinforcements on one edge of the tunnel wall to allow me to link the mouth and wall together.

Not quite sure how I will finish the tunnel mouth at the moment, but for now I've left it to dry before continuing to join the two pieces.

In order to add a little extra height and make it more sturdy at the bottom I will add some balsa wood to make sure its high enough for my steam engines to pass through.

Need More Power

2012-09-22T22:31:00.001+01:00

Since my last post, I've fitted a DCC chip to the 14xx (quite simple and apologies for not adding pictures).

However as it's my shortest loco I've found it having issues going over the pointwork on the inner track, such as stalling when on the point blades between the main rails and the electro frogs, after a bit of testing and installing extra wire at the toes of the points I've found that what is causing the problem.

It would seem that for some reason the point blades on the inner loop isn't picking up power off the main rails as they do on the outer loop, to bypass this I'll add extra droppers into the point as shown in the image below.

In the image the red rails are fed from the red wire of the dcc bus and the black from the black wire of the dcc bus, the blue section is fed from the point motor to switch the polarity depending on the position of the blades. The additional wires to add extra power to the points will be added where the small circles are, this should then solve my problems, however this can be reminded before installing the points by adding a bridging wire in a similar fashion to how I made my curved points live (see this post)but obviously placing the wire before the gap on the point to avoid shorting the track out.

New Addition to the fleet

2012-08-09T19:54:00.000+01:00

As my railway is going to run what I feel like running on it, I have decided recently to buy the new Hornby GWR 14xx, now of course this, because it is using old airfix tooling, has no socket for a decoder, so in order to make it work with my control system, I need to install a decoder.

Thankfully hard-wiring decoders into steam engines is a little easier then fitting them to diesel as there are no light to wire in, instead all I will need to do is to de-solder the wires from the pick-ups to the motor as well as removing the capacitor (as this is not needed with dcc), and then solder the red and black pick up wires to the red and black wires on the decoder and also solder the orange and grey (correct me if i'm wrong on this) wires from the decoder into the motor.

When I do this, I'll update once more on my progress.

Modifying a 56

2012-07-27T20:42:00.000+01:00

So, I've decided to make a few modifications to my class 56.
To begin with, to smooth out its running I'll simply be chopping off the capacitor near the motor, as from my understanding, this can cause problems when running a loco on dcc.
Once this is done, and I've made any other requirements for it to run smoothly, I will work on motorizing the roof fans.

From what I've read, this can be done by installing an additional decoder (and set it to a different number) which connects up to a specific motor (a mashima 1020) which should fit in the space left when removing the drive shaft.

Then all I should need to do is to program the chip before installing it (I'll be making use of the speed function that usually controls the loco's main motor) and add a little rubber ring to the end of the motors drive shaft to enable it to rotate the fans at the speed I require, when I want it.

When I start on this, I will add pictures showing what I'm doing.

What's in a name

2012-07-22T12:21:00.000+01:00

For quite some time now I've been trying to come up with an interesting name for my layout as it stands at the moment.

I've come to the choice that for now, due to the size, that it would be best to make it a branchline of sorts, though this would change when I manage to get a place of my own and expand it, thankfully how its put together at the moment and the fact I have a few redundant points in it will make it much easier to achieve.

As for the name, I'm thinking of calling it something like the Woodbury Line, though I am still to make my final decision regarding its name, suggestions are welcome though.

Half way through ballasting

2012-07-07T18:16:00.001+01:00

Well as most of my track is down, I've started ballasting the track, half the track so far is ballasted, which is one boards worth so I have the remaining board to ballast, once this is done I will be looking to start adding and planning the scenery. Something I have started on already, I have started to create a tunnel that covers half the track of one of the boards, this is something I'll show in future pictures.

Wait ages for one and two come along at once.

2012-05-27T17:08:00.000+01:00

As not much has been done to the layout recently, the blog laid more or less dormant.
Though now of course two posts come up at once.

So recently my birthday came around and I gained a few extra wagons, now I already had the appropriate loco to pull them so I just had to chip it.

This however is where the problems started, once I installed the chip and reassembled the body, I noticed a strange issue with the lighting, only one ends lights, if any were on when they were meant to be on.

So a bit of fiddling later, almost giving up and returning it and checking the internet, I came across a couple of articles about the lights on Hornbys class 56.

Satisfied that it wasn't a dodgy unit, to a certain extent, and more of a manufacturing fault, I reinstalled the chip (having removed it earlier to test it on analogue control before almost giving up completely).

After cleaning the light contacts and making adjustments to the springs on the body to help improve the lighting power contacts I reassembled it once more.

Placing it on the track again and powering the lights up I found only one end was staying on again (damn it) so I tried one last thing, I loosened the screws on the end of the loco where the light were not working by just a fraction.

Placed it back on the track, and lo and behold, all the lights work perfectly and have done since.

Setting Track for Dcc

2012-05-27T16:55:00.001+01:00

So I keep telling myself that I'm not going to be using settrack on my layout due to the issues it causes if anything with a short wheelbase is run over it (mainly shunters with 0-6-0 or 0-4-0 wheel arrangements)

But as happens I see that I can add more track to part of the layout and this track, due to the geometry, has to be set track, so I set about making it live, but of course I refuse to use Hornby's DCC staples, so I set about making my own modifications.

The back of a Peco settrack point, as out the box

Most of the webbing cut away along one section.

Small sections of wire soldered to join the required rails

View from top once installed on track.

Now although they may be slightly more intrusive at this point, they should more or less disappear when the track is ballasted.

Complete and utter frustration

2012-04-27T21:08:00.001+01:00

Now this is what you call frustration, I purchased 1 roll of woodland scenics track bed, purely because from looking at the length I thought it would be enough, clearly though, it wasn't enough, leaving me with gaps under the left side curve.

Fortunately though I got all the other track bed down without too much of a problem.

So my next step is to get another pack of track bed, which I will need for the yards anyway so most of is should get used up.

Then I'll wire in the power to the bus lead under the board to send a test train round on, this will pick up on any possible problems I may encounter before I take up all the track, go over it all with a track rubber and stick it down.

I'll then test it all again to be sure everything is fine before installing the point motors which will be controlled via dcc, I know some people don't like the idea of dcc points but I have no room for a control box and sometimes I'd like to sit down and watch trains go round, changing their tracks without having to get up to flick a switch, unless of course I come up with another method of point control.

Laying the basics

2012-04-22T17:53:00.002+01:00

So this is how it looks for now, of course nothing is actually fixed in place as most of it will be risen up (thought I'm not sure how some of my locos will manage the inclines so I guess I'll have to see when it comes to it.

Now on the left side I'll be using some wood to rise up the track to the required hight, but of course to have motors under the track I'll need to leave gaps in the wood as well as putting a thin sheet over the top to conceal the gap.

Despite this I have been temped to use some of the woodland scenics inclines and risers to do the same thing, my only issue with the wood at the moment is that they are not wide enough to fully conceal the under board motors though I can remedy this when it comes to adding the scenery.

Initially I was going to make the passing loop removable in one section, though I now believe that that will make things more difficult for me and perhaps my better option would be to forgo that idea.
Instead I'm tempted to use the copper clad board method of linking the track up and feeding power to either side of the split to maintain power flow, although I'm sure there is probably a better, tidier method, as this is the only one I've seen I'm going to have to go with it.