We cruised out of Moscow on the night train with a third class, or “platzcart”, ticket for the first time in mother Russia. What the hell is a platzcart you ask? Take fifty or so open bunks and jam them into a train car with a very unforgiving amount of headspace and you have a so-called third class Russian train. Sounds terrible but the experience was way better than the whole Trans Siberian shtick and we had a great time hanging out with the Russians in our car. We ended up being in the same general area as a couple young kids and their dad who had relatively decent English. We passed a few hours of the ride playing paper, scissors, rock and answering questions like “do you like dogs or cats?”, “when you go to Mc Donald’s do you eat chicken nuggets or cheeseburgers” and the grand finale “do you want a Bugatti?”.

Wow.

I could never imagine questions like this being asked a mere twenty years ago – a communist mecca with kids referencing the diamond standard in western convenience  and a material item that every wannabe capitalist (and probably socialist) wants to get their hands on? Surreal is probably the right word for this and it goes to show how far the state of Russia has come in a social and economic sense. Thirty years ago the word Mc Donald’s would have earned you a one way ticket to a gulag.

Rolling into St. Petersburg in the middle of the night, we got off in the middle of a rainstorm and were determined to kill a couple of hours drinking coffee until the metro started running or the sun came up. Since both prospects seemed to be at least three hours away, we decided to bunker down in a classic little pastry shop where we downed a few espressos and chomped on some decent food. Again stuck in a transportation hub in the middle of the night, we were pretty used to this sort of thing and we ended up blabbing nonstop to each other about all kinds of things. If your relationship needs a social kick start I suggest making a trip to a bus station at around 3 or 4AM with nothing but a bag full of dirty clothes, it really sets the mood for some interesting conversation.

Anyways, we finally rolled out of the central train station and caught the metro towards our destination – a place to eventually crash. After we left the subterranean jungle of the subway we came out on the street and were both immediately struck by the beautiful sunrise splashing the classically designed buildings with a soft orange glow, I can’t think of a better first view of the gem of Russia.

Now in case you didn’t know here is a very brief and possibly inaccurate history of the great city of St Petersburg.  St. Pete’s is a manufactured city built by Peter the Great as a fuck you to Moscow. He didn’t like Moscow and wanted to build a new, more opulent city so he constructed St. Petersburg and designated it the new capital of Russia, something you can do when you wield an ungodly amount of power and wealth. Although the city has flirted with new names, it remained the capital of Russia until the Russian Revolution occurred and basically altered the course of the entire nation, St. Petersburg included.

The Hermitage

About to enter the Hermitage, the most fully stacked art gallery on the planet

Being an ex-capital, St. Petersburg is full of gigantic palaces, Russian-as-can-be monuments, golden domed churches and other marvels of engineering that are so extravagant they only exist to drop jaws. Probably the most famous piece of the city’s landscape is the Hermitage, a palace complex filled with thousands and thousands of pieces of art, each one worth triple the price of the home I live in. For twenty bucks we got into one of the most famous art galleries on the planet and apparently if you look at every picture in the place for a minute it would take you eleven years to get through the museum, ELEVEN YEARS…Holy Shit! We only had a day and don’t have a clue when it comes to old art so we really didn’t appreciate the magnitude of what we were seeing. I think the most impressive part of the Hermitage is the extravagance of the rooms housing the art. There is a room made of pure gold, ballrooms the size of football fields and Italian made mosaic floors that took years to complete. It’s a wild thought to think that while this palace was being built, 99% of Russia’s population were doomed to a life of peasantry. I would love to know what the Net Present Value of the Hermitage and the associated art collection is – if anyone knows hit me back.

Everything in this room is laced in pure gold, EVERYTHING.

Jackie trying to find out where we are in the maze known as the Hermitage

This marble tomb is probably worth more than the entire neighbourhood I grew up in

Church of the Savior on Blood

Hanging tight outside the church

Russia is synonmous with incredible feats of architecture, and if one type of building takes the cake in the great nation it’s churches. That is until some guy named Stalin decided to destroy a whole shitload of them to catch the eye of Karl Marx’s spirit, thankfully many have survived the great Commie purge. The most famous church in Russia is probably St. Basils, which we wrote about here, but the most breathtaking place of worship in mother Russia has to be the Church of the Savior on Blood.

This is no ordinary church – this is the very place that Tsar Alexander II was assassinated, and when royalty falls in Russia a divine monument usually accompanies them to the afterlife as a memory of their existence on planet earth. The elaborate details on the exterior of the church make it look like a legoland fantasy that you had as an eight year old kid. Multi coloured spiral domes are lined with gold and the mosaics probably took longer to construct than it takes the average person to pay off their mortgage. We killed a solid hour inside and came out with a serious case of crane neck from staring at the details embedded in every square inch of the interior, the roof included.

Jackie earning some neck cramps inside the cathedral

Peter and Paul Fortress

These are the activities you can't do at the Peter and Paul fortress

This gigantic fortification was built by Peter the Great. I could probably leave it at that, but I feel so inclined to express how epic this walled Russian giant truly is. It’s smack dab on an island in the Neva river and is now home to the bodies of every departed Russian emperor and empress. Inside the Peter and Paul cathedral lie the tombs of every Russian political/royal superstar up until the Commies took over and said to hell with tsarism, give the power back to the people (supposedly).

the tomb of a Russian powerhouse - Peter the Great

Immense is an understatement, however we were most perplexed by the copious amounts of Russian’s leaning against the exterior walls of the fortress rocking banana hammocks and skin with the visual texture of a komodo dragon. What the hell were these people doing? SUNTANNING. Apparently tanning is a national pastime for some, so they make their way to a historical monument, strip down into the smallest possible piece of clothing and STAND there tanning. Yes, STAND THERE, apparently people there believe that standing up and suntanning gives the body a more even sunkiss. Strange fucking business. These people are not deterred by anything, including a construction site full of heavy duty equipment. The site was hilarious, there are a couple of construction workers having at it repairing a wall while their comrade is standing around in his god damn speedo with his gut hanging out enjoying the UV rays of an early fall sun. This site almost one’d up the Hermitage, but a room encased in pure gold has to beat out the site of a hairy Russian kicking it in the sun.

Apparently standing around construction sites and tanning IS allowed at the Peter and Paul fortress

Crop shot close up in case you didn't find waldo in the last pic

Party Time

In an increasingly rare occurrence, Jackie and I decided that we would “rip it up” in St. Petersburg with our newfound friends Andy and Laura. Hailing from Britain and fresh as can be travelers beginning a world trip, we figured we would all make perfect counterparts to pound a few adult beverages. Our actual intent was to go for a beer or two but that turned into twenty.

On our way to the bar Andy and Laura questioned us as to why we weren’t freezing our asses off. They had put on between 3 and 20 layers in order to cope with the cold Russian night (+12 Celsius).  Jackie and I had long sleeve shirts on and that’s about it, either way it was such a stereotypical situation that we all laughed our asses off and it became a beacon for conversation all night.

Once we got to our destination we ended up receiving all kinds of interesting visitors to our table, some more loaded than others. Every time I talked to a Russian I had a fresh vodka shot placed in front of me – so much for having a couple beers. As the night got increasingly blurry we met up with some locals who wanted us to go to a house party with them. Being a few steps away from three sheets to the wind and in a city where you have no idea how to navigate or ask for directions in the native tongue and heading to a party with strangers is likely a very bad idea. Seemingly, we managed to make the right decision and ended up staying at the bar and running into various party animals that was straight out of a James Bond movie. From a blue haired fedora rocking vampire girl to an Armenian junk pusher, our company was definitely diverse.  The drinks flowed until 7:30AM – apparently bars don’t close in Russia – and all of us were a little shocked to see the sun cresting about the peaks of church steeples before we cut ourselves off. Needless to say the next day was spent hibernating before we bid our newfound friends goodbye. We were headed west and they were going east. They are coming to Canada eventually and I think we promised them a view at a moose and a stab at ice fishing (the two were astonished that a machine exists to drill holes in the ice), we are definitely looking forward to it.

Goodbye Mother Russia

We left St. Petersburg with the realization that our trip was in it’s final chapters. I think both of us had mixed feelings after leaving the great country of Russia for the ex-Soviet enclave of Estonia. Our long trip east had come to a conclusion and now it was time to weave our way in and out of Europe, our last continent on this crazy journey of ours.

Here is a  random pic I shot in St. Pete’s:

Ever get the need to bomb around on some rollerblades blasting 10000 BPM techno music? Give this guy a call if you get a hankering.

This is the epicenter of Russia, Moscow. Home to the Kremlin, dead dictators, Red Square, new money, old commie honour and pretty much everything in between. Moscow is beautiful, we couldn’t put our cameras down and looked like out of control tourists for our entire stint in the city, but we didn’t care. From the vibrant domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral to the crystal tears in the Museum of the Great Patriotic War to the all around weirdness of the All Russia Exposition Center, Moscow is a pictorial mecca. It was hard to believe that mere days ago we were snapping shots of Russia’s wild Siberian gems and now we were smack dab in the cosmopolitan world of Moscow. There are a lot of snaps here but this was easily one of the best places in the world to be a photographer. Enjoy copping a look cuz we loved taking them. 

Read about the Moscow adventure here.

Since we have been getting alot of interest regarding our online travel documentary series and are currently post producing the rest of our episodes we figured we would post a full episode list with synopsis of each of our episodes, we hope to have the entire series complete by summer 2012 but each episode takes roughly 30-50 hours to complete.

Episode 1 – Home Sweet Home

An introduction to Jarrett and Jackie Mykytiuk, a newlywed couple from Edmonton, Alberta Canada who are preparing to leave their home life professional careers to pursue a life of adventure travelling around the world for a year.

Episode 2 – Goodbye

On the eve of their departure, Jarrett and Jackie  attend a ‘going away’ party where their friends send them off with a couple drinks and their best wishes.

Episode 3 – Easy Living

Jarrett and Jackie depart Canada and end up on the North Island of New Zealand. An “experimental” episode that easily disappoints as the Worldly Couple was in vacation mode instead of travelling mode. Although poorly written, shot and edited it provides a glimpse into the North Island adventures including hiking Rangitoto in Auckland, hanging out in Raglan, bubbling mud and Zorbing in Rotorua and finishing with the great walk of Tongariro Crossing.

Episode 4 – Scenic Mosaic

After a couple weeks on the road and a chin check from episode 3, Jarrett and Jackie create a new formula for the episodes to better showcase the places they visit, things they do and people they meet. Scenic Mosaic is all about the beauty, adventure and excitement found on the South Island of New Zealand. After renting a station wagon, the Worldly Couple decides to convert it into living quarters for the three week duration of the trip. Cramped and congested as the Wingroad is, Jackie and Jarrett get to experience some incredible scenery on their first road trip of the year. The episode concludes with a trip to Queenstown to experience some high adrenaline action in the renowned extreme capital, as long as one half of the crew can overcome their fear of heights…

Episode 5 – Aussie Salute

Hopping into the second country of the trip, Jarrett and Jackie immediately connect to the cosmopolitan feel of Sydney. After getting a taste of the Aussie beach life, they head off to the surfing mecca of Byron Bay in an attempt to catch a wave. Yearning for their days of living out of a station wagon, the couple rent a high-tech “Space Ship” to get out to Fraser Island and the Great Barrier Reef where they take in the incredible eco-diversity of the country, both on land and in the water. Once the spaceship is returned, Jackie and Jarrett hop a quick flight to Darwin to catch a glimpse of a quintessential Aussie predator – and the trip does not disappoint.

Episode 6 – Gateway to Asia

Leaving the so-called western world behind, the Worldly Couple head to their next continent – Asia – by way of Singapore where they spend Jarrett’s birthday indulging in $30 beverages. After realizing they are not high rollers, they depart Singapore for Malaysia where they get their first taste of foreign chaos and unforgettable sacred ground the Kuala Lumpur. Once sufficiently sweaty and smog grimed the couple make their way around peninsular Malaysia and take in the holy sites and delicious foods of Penang before taking the jungle train to the world’s oldest rainforest for an incredible glimpse into the leech infested grounds of Taman Negara.

Episode 7 Part 1 – Beaches to Bangkok

Hitting their stride in the land of easy smiles, Jarrett and Jackie spend an entire month blasting around Thailand. Started on the lazy island of Ko Lanta, the couple rent some local transportation that allows them to see the entire island before getting into a sticky situation. Once the beaches of the south were complete they head to Bangkok to experience the big city where Jarrett ends up having a good time with a few touts before eventually settling on a tailor for some new threads, the Worldly Couple head to some of BKK’s most interesting sights, including the Grand Palace and Wat Arun.

Episode 7 Part 2 – Sawatdipi Mai

The Worldly Couple head north to Chiang Mai where they are overwhelmed by the delicious street food, plethora of religious sites to visit and finally the absolute hijinx of Songkran – the Thai New Years celebration. Basically the streets of Chiang Mai turn into a massive warzone with water as ammunition, easily the biggest and best water fight on the planet. During the debauchery of the holiday, Jarrett and Jackie get a glimpse into the true and traditional meaning of the new year.

Episode 7 Part 3 – Happy Ending

Hoping to get away from the madness of Songkran, the couple headed to Chiang Rai where they discover that Songkran is in full swing. In an attempt to visit local sites outside the city Jarrett and Jackie try to rent bicycles but realize they are hard to come by due to the holiday. Instead they settle, apprehensively, for an alternate method of transport to take them to the uniquely decorated White Temple. Thailand is wrapped up with a trip back to Bangkok and a night train trip up to the Laos border.

Episode 8 Part 1 – Picking Up the Pieces

Laos is the most heavily bombed country on the planet. Did you know this? Neither did we. After getting our bearings in the capital of Vientiane we head to COPE, a charitable organization that helps victims of the remaining unexploded ordinance (bombs, mines, bombies) throughout the country. A serious epidemic – the remaining munitions left over from the Vietnam War kill at least one person a day and maim many more. At COPE we meet Nam, a young and passionate employee dedicated to helping his nation clean up from their unfortunate past. We leave COPE amazed by their work and equally shocked that we knew nothing about the perils of the nation of Laos and take a flight on an airline with a less than desirable safety record, which makes someone a little uneasy.

Episode 8 Part 2 – Unspoiled Beauty

Continuing through the country of Laos, the couple lands in Luang Prabang a beautiful city situated on the Mekong river and decides to go on a mountain bike excursion for the first time in over a decade. The decision turns out to be of varying quality as they sweat their way through rural Laos to a Kouanxi Waterfalls, a scenic landmark in the mountains of Laos. After Luang Prabang, Jarrett and Jackie take local transport up the Mekong and Nam Ou rivers to Nong Khiaw where they observe some of the most prolific and amazing scenery on the trip to date, but it comes with a price…With  little time left they head to Phonsavan for a trip through an archeological mystery and run into an interesting discovery before getting stuck on a long, long, long ride south to the land of four thousand islands.

Episode 9 Part 1 – Khmer Rouge

Cambodia has had a devastating past. The Worldly Couple start their excursion in Phnom Penh where they discover some of the harsh realities that plagued the Khmer people in recent decades. The brutality of the Khmer Rouge is explored at Choeung Ek, also known as the Killing Fields, as well as the school-turned-torture house Tuol Sleng (S21).

Episode 9 – Part 2 – To be named

After seeing the effects of the Khmer Rouge on the nation, Jarrett and Jackie head to Siem Reap where a friend has hooked them up with a reputable and respectable orphanage. It is here they meet Sunthan, operator of CPCSO, who gives them the opportunity to help out around the orphanage and meet the children in his care. Sunthan lived through the Khmer Rouge period and was raised in an orphanage, two critical reasons he operates his orphanage through such high standards and values. A man of passion and ambition, it is impossible to not feel some hope for Cambodia knowing people like Sunthan are dedicated to improving the future.

Episode 9 – Part 3 – to Be named

One of the reasons so many people rip into Siem Reap is the world famous Angkor Wat. The series of ruins from the Khmer empire are vast, intricate and in various states of disrepair. One of the historic sites that was high on the list to be seen, the couple spends three long, hot and sweaty days exploring the temple complexes that have been in existence for over a thousand years.

Episode 10 – Vietnam – To be named

Vietnam, like Thailand, is a popular hotspot and tourist mecca in South East Asia and with that comes particular challenges as well as opportunities. Starting in Ho Chi Minh City, Jackie and Jarrett are shocked to discover and experience the mass of scooters in the city before they find out they are stranded in the HCMC area waiting for a visa. It’s a good place to be stuck as they meet up with an old friend who makes Ho Chi Minh his home and workplace. After getting their passports back, Jackie and Jarrett head to the historic city of Hue to take in Vietnam’s imperial history before heading north towards the capital and communist hotspot of Hanoi, the last stop before kissing South East Asia goodbye.

Episode 11 – Japan – To be named

An impromptu policy shift in China forces the Worldly Couple to make a change in plans – the decision is made to hop a flight to the bright lights of the big city in Tokyo where they get lost on the subway, experience urban Japanese living and visit a popular amusement park. After being over stimulated by the largest city in the world Jarrett and Jackie seek out tranquility at the foot of Japan’s most famous landmark, Mount Fuji. With a relaxed mindset the couple heads to Kyoto and Nara to experience “traditional Japan” before heading south to the world famous for the wrong reason city of Hiroshima to learn the devastating effects of the atomic bomb. At this point in the trip a random decision takes them south to the island of Kyushu where they visit Beppu, the Onsen capital of Japan before rendezvousing with an old pal in his hometown of Osaka where sushi and Suntory fueled nights get increasingly blurry and karaoke filled.

Episode 12 – China – To be named

A long day to Hong Kong gets longer when Jarrett and Jackie end up at the notorious Chung King Mansion. To make matters worse the Russian embassy extends their stay in Hong Kong by a week for a “chance” that the visas will be issued. The first entry to China proper takes Jarrett and Jackie to Guilin and Yangshuo where they get their first taste of a Chinese summer and the incredible beauty that the south is home to. After that it’s off to Xian to visit some clay warriors and the world’s most dangerous hike up Mount Hua Shan. Tainted by previous Chinese train experiences the couple flys to Beijing to take in the capital city and all it’s might before heading to a derelict section of the Great Wall of China for some mind blowing views of the world’s biggest fence.

Episode 13 – Mongolia – To be named

The wild east is full of every cross section of life imaginable, nomadic cowboys, rich diplomats and young up and comers. Jarrett and Jackie arrange a full two week excursion into the North of Mongolia to Khosvgol Nuur and back where they run into the most adventure laden and action packed stint on the trip. From drinking and hunting with nomads to eating random goat parts, this is an episode that has to be seen to believe.

Episode 14 – Russia – To be named

Siberia in the summer isn’t so bad, in fact it’s pretty beautiful! The Worldly Couple start their epic journey across the world’s largest country, but not before making a stop in Irkutsk and a trip to the majestic, yet unbelievable chilly, Lake Baikal. The freezing waters almost takes out half of the crew, but after thawing off the couple steps aboard the longest train ride yet – Irkutsk to Moscow, no stops, over the course of 86 straight hours. What was once a glamorized and hyped up adventure turns into a boring and uneventful sentence as Jarrett and Jackie slowly crawl west towards Eastern Europe. After the first shower and decent meal in almost a week the two seek out some of the gems in Russia’s rapidly changing capital before heading north to St.Petersburg to marvel at the ornate excess that defines the Hermitage.

Episode 15 – Estonia, Sweden – To be named

Leaving St. Petersburg, the couple head to Estonia, a country that most people (them included) didn’t even know existed. A fresh and exciting opportunity to take in the eye popping capital of Tallinn does not disappoint and the two eventually board a ferry to Stockholm to take in a diplomatic superpower of a state. The deal in Sweden is sweetened when they cross paths with an old friend they met in New Zealand, Henrik, who shows them around Gothenburg where they get a taste of home before heading up the coast to see unique rock formations and try their hand at a little self initiated crab fishing.  

Episode 16 – Germany, Switzerland, Austria – To be named

Berlin is stop number one on the Germany schedule and easily becomes one of the couples’ favorite European cities. History and character are what defines the ultra chic capital and Jarrett and Jackie explore remnants of the past before heading down to Munich for the famous Oktoberfest. Did we mention that we had some guests along for this portion of the ride? Jackie’s parents join us as we travel through southern Germany and into the fairytale land of the Swiss Alps where a random environmental event gets the two a little homesick. After begrudgingly leaving the mountains (but not the prices) behind, the couple head to Austria where they split ways with their travel counterparts and make their way east to Vienna by way of Salzburg.

Episode 17 – Czech Republic, Ukraine – To be named

The old country. This is where Jarrett’s family originated two short generations ago and heading east to Ukraine seemed like the perfect opportunity to take in a piece of his heritage. The Couple stops in Prague along the way, which was an absolutely unexpected treat with history and views to rival the best of them, before heading through Poland to the city of Lviv. The Couple attempt to hunt down a location that was embedded in Jarrett’s memory as a child before heading south to Chernitsvi to try and track down any living lineage to the Mykytiuk family still residing in Ukraine. After an interesting stint in the Chernitsvi oblast the rejuvenated couple head north to Kiev to experience the city that best represents the current state of Ukraine. Ukraine is capped off with a trip to the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone where they experience the ghosts of the past and the closest living example to the aftermath of a nuclear war. Better bring your Geiger counter for this one!

Episode 18 – Spain – To be named

Ukraine was incredible and played host to one of the most exciting and fulfilling experiences of the entire trip, but winter was upon the nation so the Couple hightail it to grasp onto the last remaining pieces of summer before heading back to a Canadian Winter. Starting in Barcelona the couple wanders the  labyrinthine streets for a few days before heading south to Seville where they get hooked on tapas and attempt to recreate a bullfight (chalk this up to travel craziness). After Seville its down to Cadiz for a little beach time before cruising to Gibraltar where they get a little taste of the UK in this colonial enclave (apes included) and glimpse over to Africa, a place the Couple yearns to visit but is quickly running out of time. A quick flight up north to Basque country to San Sebastian puts the Couple in one of the most endearing and beautiful towns in all of Europe. A place where culture, beauty, scenery and a good time are all rolled into one convenient package.

Episode 19 – France and the Netherlands – To be named

Paris bound after our Spanish excursion to meet up with the second group of visitors on the trip – Jackie’s brother and his lovely lady – where we cross paths in the great city of Paris. After a double header at Le Zenith where Jarrett gets a case of whiplash after seeing legendary rockers Motorhead one night and up and coming rock and roll heroes Kasabian another, the foursome venture out to take in all the sights and sounds of Paris, from the catacombs to the Louve,  it’s all here.  Time with the four travelers is almost complete, but before it comes to an end they head up to Amsterdam to take in the famous and beautiful Dutch beauty.

Episode 20 – England, Ireland and Coming Home – To be named

England ho! The LAST stop on the journey – the Couple doesn’t even know how to deal with the mix of emotions running through them. Happy to be headed home but totally disengaged because the dream is coming to an end pretty much sums it up. Before heading home to the Great White North Jackie and Jarrett take in the white cliffs of Dover before hooking up with Jarrett’s sister and her strapping young lad to take on the Big Smoke. In London for a few days, the foursome head to Ireland to take in the green hills and the incredible people before splitting off, with the Worldly Couple heading back to London to visit their friends Claire and Dale before their eventual departure back home to Canada where they surprise their families before Christmas 2011. It all has to end sooner or later…or does it?

Sitting on a train for 84 hours straight can be enough to drive a person crazy, but a few beers and a deck of cards go a long way. Although we didnt go crazy on the photo front, the Trans Siberian definitely did have it’s picturesque moments and we tried our best to take advantage of them. Here are a couple pictures from our great excursion across Russia via Soviet era rolling stock.

Click here to read about the insanely long train ride across Russia

The Capital, the Red City, the Land of Ex-Commies and newfound masters of Capitalism (cronyism?), the place is an interesting crossroads of ideologies, both past and present. Walking down the street you will see grizzled old men dressed in their Sunday’s best with their Communist medals of achievement pinned proudly to their lapels echoing a past time of great promise to the people and the next person that rips by him is a young lady gacked to the nines in MAC makeup and Jimmy Choo stilettos with a Starbucks Mocha-Choka-Frappa-Makka in hand en route to her billionaire boyfriend’s Bugatti which is parked graciously on the sidewalk. It’s an assault on the senses and its hard to believe that a mere twenty some years ago people were buying track suits off the black market with currency that was worth less than toilet paper.

Moscow is home to, or has an association to every major point in Russia’s turbulent history. From the invasion of the Mongols to Putin’s revolution, the pivotal player in the game is always Moscow, a straight up constant in a land of change. With 10 million people the place is busy busy busy at all times in the day and apparently home to the most billionaires per capita in the world.

Jackie taking in Russia's capital

RED SQUARE, KREMLIN, ST. BASIL’S and MOSCOW’S MUSEUMS

As any good visitor would do we headed to the centre of town to the famous Red Square, the middle of town and the stage for many a Commie get togethers, from Lenin being crowned as Russia’s leader to Stalin waving the troops out to the eastern front to Khrushchev parading V2 rockets to showcase Commie Power in the face of the capitalist, consumeristic pigs of the west. On our way there we strolled past a McDonalds, if there is one symbol of an overzealous, overpowering and over consuming corporation it’s probably the golden arches – they represent good old Capitalism better than the stars and stripes of my neighbours to the south. So Red Square and McDonalds – Lenin is probably doing backflips in his mausoleum on the square! This little microcosm is the perfect example of the type and pace of change that Russia is currently experiencing, and to say it’s wild is an understatement.

The most recognizable spot in Russia: St. Basil's Cathedral

When we first stepped into the square we thought we were in the wrong place – it seemed congested and small, and if my WWII Nerdism serves me right, the infamous video of the parading troops showed the square to be massive, but I guess that’s properly done propaganda (say that three times fast). The time we were there the square was also home to the World Championships of Marching Bands – Yawn. The massive stage took up a huge amount of the square, obstructing the view of Russia’s trademark landmark, St. Basil’s Cathedral. I guess you can’t win them all, and after standing on the very cobblestones that history was written I felt the entire visit to the square was wholeheartedly justified. Against the outer wall of the Kremlin and within the mighty Red Square is a particularly special building – Lenin’s Tomb. The building holds the remains of the Kickstarter of Communism, waxed, polished and on display for everyone to see. When you get inside the plastic like body is a strange sight, it doesn’t even look real, and Uncle Lenin has resembled a Communist action figure for almost hundred years. We only had to wait five minutes in line to see the body, which is typical for this day and age in Russia, but when my Dad visited the USSR back in the 80′s he had to wait almost three hours to see Lenin…and I am sure that the line pales in comparison to the true glory days in the 20′s, 30′s, 40′s and so on.

The Walls of the Kremlin

Next to the Square is another Russian beauty, the Kremlin, which is situated behind massive brick walls that have held and protected almost every Russian Tsar and Leader from Ivan the Terrible to Mr. Putin Himself. The place is basically a walled city that holds some of the most important structures in Russia, from the church where Tsar’s were crowned to the final resting place of Russia’s past leaders. In true Russian fashion everything is done up to the max, with gold gilded church domes and massive towers the place is everything you would think it is. Over the top and beautiful all at the same time…and packed with every tourist in Russia, but something that must be done to truly appreciate the great country.

Gold Everywhere.

Now we had not been to a major city for a long time so once we arrived in Moscow we went a little buck on the museums and what not. We hit the State History Museum, the Museum of Contemporary History and a few others. Probably the most impressive was the museum of the Great Patriotic War (WWII to the rest of the planet). I won’t bore you with the details because I know nobody really gives a shit about reading this, but the ‘museum’ was much less a museum and much more a monument and testimony to the Russian war effort for which they took a great deal of damage. Huge structures, massive statues, millions of crystal teardrops, and life size dioramas all stand to remind you that without the Russian War Effort we all may very well be speaking German.

Victory Monument - This Statue was Massive

ALL RUSSIA EXPOSITION CENTER

Entrance to the All Russia Exhibition Centre

Moscow City Day at the All Russia Exposition Center

Last day in Moscow we cruised to the Soviet Exposition Center, a place in the outer suburbs of the city, to have a look  public displays of every Communist achievement – from the revolution to perestroika. The exhibition grounds were meant to be a gathering place for Soviet people to admire the greatness of their nation’s achievements and everything from space exploration to agricultural successes was celebrated here with, you guessed it, gigantic and over the top monuments. Although the monuments remain and the people still flock to hang out here it is much more a public magnet for a goodtime rather than a Commie pump up. There is an amusement park with slightly dodgy looking rides and a bunch of kiosks set up to cheat people out of money in exchange for the showing of skill for the potential reward of a stuffed animal. It was a surreal place – balloon and cotton candy salesmen hanging around a golden statue of a butch farmgirl, a dated space shuttle displayed prominently in the centre of the grounds surrounded by privateers striving to sell you everything from a go cart ride to a turkish kebab. A cool way to wrap up the city and definitely something we were not expecting to do.

Monument 1 of 900: Space Exploration (note the size by the guy standing on the left)

RUSSIAN VODKA PARTY

Last night in Moscow included a bottle of Vodka, some Russian appetizers and a few shots for this Russian gal’s Bday. Although no one really spoke much English we all spent the night knocking back cold vodka shots and chomping on sliced pieces of veal. Around 11:00 we ran out of booze so a co-vodka-drinking Russian named Mishall and I headed out for more drinks. Unfortunately the closest grocery store was closed so we headed off into the Russian night, him speaking Russian to me and me speaking English to him – mainly naming off all the Ruskie hockey stars in the NHL like Malkin, Ovechkin etc. After about twenty minutes of this we reached a dark and deserted park which would be the perfect set for a straight up robbery in a Hollywood flick. After asking for directions he seemed confident that we were headed in the right direction and we ripped through the park and up a dark alley to end up at a small wooden shack that sold liquor and smoked fish. Wow – without this dude I probably would have ended up in a dumpster somewhere. We stocked up on some brewskis (no vodka sales after 11:00PM in Russia – apparently there were ‘problems’ with that) and headed back to kill the rest of the night.

Both of us woke up the next day with slightly heavy heads – mine more so than Jackie’s – and we decided we would do nothing but drink coffee and eat some food. We killed the day and headed to the train station to get our night train toour last stop and the Jewel of Russia, St. Petersburg.

Full On Mortal Kombat: Chuck Norris vs Jackie Chan

Cambodia is one of the world’s poorest nations and in the past forty years has suffered through some of the worst events in modern history. After becoming a victim in the Vietnam war, then being taken over by the Khmer Rouge, the nation went from up and comer to starting all over again. With a violent past behind it, Cambodia has become one of the most interesting places on the planet to visit. Still suffering from a massive gap in wealth, the country is still figuring out the best way to become a player on the world stage. This shouldn’t deter you from visiting this South East Asian gem and the people alone will make it a favorite on the trip.

1. Kick in for the Future

There is an overwhelming amount of charitable organizations and “orphanages” in Cambodia, some more legitimate than others. In fact, many “orphanages” are front organizations run by corrupt individuals that make the children work the markets, inviting people to dances for donations. Unfortunately, those donations line the pockets of the owners instead of bringing hope and a happier life to the kids at the orphanage. Although this is often the case, there are plenty of organizations that do an incredible job working towards a better future for Cambodia. We ended up with a hookup from a friend in Canada to visit an orphanage that she had worked at. It turned out to be the highlight of our time in Cambodia and one of the best experiences of the entire trip. Sunthan, the operator of CPCSO, is passionate beyond belief and thoroughly believes in helping out the next generation of Khmers. We got to pitch in around the orphanage, teach a little English and hang out with the kids. In the end, we made an incredible connection with Sunthan and will do our best to continually support his organization now that we are back in Canada. In a country that has been through all kinds of hell, bright organizations like CPCSO offer a glimpse into Cambodia’s brighter future. 

Want an incredible experience? Find a legit orphanage or NPO to pitch in at.

2. Killing fields and S21

Going to the brutal sites dedicated to the horrors performed by the Khmer Rouge is an eye opener to say the least. For such a recent event, there hasn’t been too much exposure surrounding the events of the Pol Pot regime and only now are the leaders of the so-called revolution being brought to justice. The two sites, Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek, give people a glimpse into the horrors people went through during the times when Pol Pot and his regime ruled the nation, and these are only two sites. Not for the faint of heart but a definite necessity to understand the perils of Cambodia and part of the reason for the current state of the nation.

Learning about the brutal past is an essential part of any trip to Cambodia

3. Temples of Angkor

Pretty much every person who has gone to Cambodia has done this, but that shouldn’t deter you from heading to one of the most comprehensive sets of ruins on planet earth. Derived from the Khmer empire, over a thousand years ago, the temple complex made for an intricate community where everyone who was someone lived. The architecture is unbelievable and to think you are standing on the grounds that were established over a hundred decades ago make it all the more impressive. Angkor is busy, but most tourists do the loop in the same fashion, thus falling in with a massive crowd. We explored Angkor Wat, the actual temple, right after sunrise while everyone else went to breakfast and basically had free reign of the place. To better understand where to go and when talk to your tuk tuk driver and plan a loop around the temples to avoid the mobs of people. Our favorite temples were hands down Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, and Ta Som. It helps if you research the temple complex beforehand because there is no way of seeing every single ruin. Mark your favorites and take in the elaborate design and motifs that are slathered on every single wall. In all honesty, the best ruins are the ones that are scattered amongst random piles of rocks and vegetation seemingly left for nature to take its course.

The Most obvious Must Do - and for good reason.

4.  Get Out into The Country

City life and country life are always different, no matter where in the world you are. In a place like Cambodia where cities such as Siem Reap have emerged due to the influx of tourism, only spending your time in the polished Disneyland-esque environment will definitely skew your perception on the country. Literally five minutes outside of Siem Reap is an entirely different realm, with people focusing on sustenance farming and other ways to scratch out a living. These people work their asses off just to put a bowl of rice on the table for their families and it really isn’t something that any tourist can grasp, because by nature of being in Cambodia on a holiday you are automatically in a life position that most people there can only dream of. Its eye opening and something that will definitely make you think twice when complaining about your job back home. Sorry to sound so preachy but its true – and thanks to Sunthan at the orphanage we got to witness country life first hand.

5.  Joe to Go / Beau Fou

Don’t let the name fool you, this place is awesome. A tiny and hard to find café in Siem Reap plays host to some delicious food and beverages but the real selling point is the boutique store,  Beau Fou, upstairs.  Joe to Go and Beau Fou support the local population by giving their profits to Global Child that helps educate former street children. The upstairs boutique has some really solid articles of clothing designed by and created by locals, the attire is extremely fashionable and is the perfect mix between traditional and contemporary style. We purchased some beautiful handmade kramas made by locals with incredible craftsmanship and quality materials. It is more expensive than the market no doubt, but the quality and look of the clothing is unbeatable. To top it off the employees in the store are ace, we ended up talking with them for a while about life as young up and comers in Cambodia, most of them are university students that have a passion for giving what they can back to their country.  For any type of clothing or keepsake head to Beau Fou , and pick up an iced coffee while you are at it.

Been to Cambodia and think we missed something? Feel free to add it in the comments below.

The Trans-Siberian is the kind of thing every traveller envisions as a majestic journey across the vast, empty land of Russia. There a few different ways you can go about grabbing this infamous train with appropriate name like the Trans-Mongolian, Trans-Siberian, Trans-Manchurian, Trans-Canadian, etc. When you talk to other people who have gone west to east most of them speak of the glorious times they had knocking back vodka with locals while eating some of the most delicious food you have ever laid your eyes upon. Naturally, I built up the train ride to Splash Mountain like proportions which I know leads me to one place and one place only: disappointment town. Four days on a train sounds like anything but exciting and to be honest it was boring as hell, with flashes of brilliance. Seriously, all those people who told me otherwise were either lucky or suffering from a case of  ”of-course-my-experience-was better-ititice (not a real medical condition).

Trans-Siberian Bunk Mates

We got on the train late at night in Irkutsk after prowling in the station and watching security deal with the usual transport hub riff raff. All the freaks, drunks and otherwise lost souls always find refuge in the land of public transportation, and whether you are a piss your pants drunk or an amphetamine starved skeleton, rest assured you can find your place at your local train station! We met our bunkmates, a couple who were about the age of our parents and after some feeble attempts to talk to them via our piece of shit Lonely Planet phrasebook (seriously travelers if you are considering buying these things, don’t its a waste of your time and the person you are trying to talk to’s time) we realized that we were to have four days of relative silence and charades when trying to explain anything. The people were super nice nonetheless and tried their best to understand what this lanky twenty six year old was doing while motioning with what I thought was a hockey stick while saying “Ovechkin, Ovechkin!”, they probably thought I was one of the previously mentioned fiends that was now a stowaway in their bunk for four days.

Trans-Siberian Food

Since it is custom to share food and drink with your bunkmates on a Russian train, Jackie and I stocked up on all kinds of delicious treats. From salami to bread to vodka to chips to chocolate to instant potatoes, we had it all in abundance and figured our Russian counterparts would like to take a bite out of our massive grocery bag. For some reason they didn’t want to have any of our food and really insisted that they feed us, which they did sporadically with little snacks and cookies and whatnot. It was wild, every time we tried to reciprocate they would shake their head amicably and decline! Chalk this up to awesomenes.

This helped pass the time...

No Breaks…You Should Consider It

The total duration of the train ride was 84 hours and that would take us from Irkutsk to the booming capital of Moscow, most people break up the journey but we like to put ourselves through undue suffering so we took the whole train all at once, at this point in time on the trip not showering for four days feels a little bit too normal and I finally understand why my dad protested vehemently when I told him I wanted to become a bottle picker. The lack of showers was a bummer, but each train comes equipped with this awesome machine that pours out piping hot water to make delicious bowls of noodles, taters, tea or whatever. Without that glorious machine the train would be two thousand five hundred and sixty percent less bearable*. We decided not to take breaks on the journey, I suggest you strongly consider breaking it up at least once s this will give you the chance to see something other than wheatfields rolling by and will give you the chance to get new roomates (which is a gamble, could get better could get worse).

Looking Out the Window on Mother Russia

The Scenery

People are probably thinking “well the scenery must be great?”, and it was for the first day or so. The plains mixed with rolling hills reminded us of home and really embedded the fact that we were officially working our way towards Canada after almost nine months of moseying around the Southern Hemisphere and Asia. Once the first day is through all the scenery starts looking the same because…it is. I am sure we passed almost three million birch trees and one hundred and fifty thousand wheat fields en route to mighty Moscow.

Lots of Solitaire, lots.

Appreciation for Travel

One thing that traveling overland gives you is an appreciation for is how big the earth really is. Its fucking gigantic, and this is a fact that is seldom realized when you are flying through the atmosphere at nine hundred kilometres an hour, and after train traveling across the largest land mass in the world you realize that the Wright brothers were the architects of a transportation revolution that we were never around to witness. When your ass is numb next time you are sitting on a six hour flight, just think about how long it would take by rail, sea or a combination of the two. Its incredible to believe that this was how my Dad’s Dad made his way over to the great Canadian plains back in the day and I couldn’t help but smile when I thought of this. Going on the Trans-Siberian was like entering a time machine and is definitely something that I am happy to have done once, but there is no way you will see me waiting on the platform in Mother Russia waiting for another four day excursion across the largest country in the world. Stepping off the train at 4:00AM I felt like a withered version of my former self and realized that we were in the epicenter of Russia and an ex-Soviet stronghold, a place that holds a pivotal point in the history of the world! 

Ups and Downs

Looking back on the whole experience and writing about it made me realize that on the surface, the entire time on the train seemed to be uneventful and boring. Simply put, thats not the case, you run into the locals and travel the same way they travel and it gives you a serious appreciation for the folks that do this on a regular basis and not for an “adventure”. Some decent, albeit broken, conversations occured with others in our train car (some interesting thoughts from some of the inebriated passengers) and a whole lot of time to reflect on the trip and catch up on some reading. Maybe not as glamourous as I had made it up to be, but a unique and unforgettable experience nonetheless. Now I just need to find a shower. 

*an approximation not pure scientific fact.

The Russian version of a tropical getaway – hang out on the white sand beaches that line the biggest body of freshwater on the planet, Lake Baikal. After visiting Olkhon Island, the most formidable island outpost in Siberia, we realized why this place was such a hot spot for domestic tourism. The wilderness on the island is extensive, and everything from pine forests to rocky criags blast your senses into understanding the beauty of summer in a land known for permafrost and crumbling alcoholics. Did we mention the sunsets? Every night we witnessed the sun dip beyond the mountains while it cast the most spectacular spectrum of colours across the perfectly calm Lake Baikal. Check it out for yourself.

Read about the Siberian Adventure here.

Phnom Penh is exactly what you picture a city whose population was violently forced to relocate while the city itself laid in abandon for over four years. Once the Khmer Rouge took over the nation they basically killed or forcibly removed every individual from the city and let the majority of infrastructure rot and decay without much afterthought about the consequences, a common stream of thinking amongst Pol Pot and his “revolutionaries”. The city has a rough edge, but that shouldn’t deter you from spending a few days getting to know the city and trying to comprehend what an insanely turbulent past Phnom Penh, and Cambodia, have had.

1. Tuol Sleng, S21

Brutally truthful and unbelievably grim, a visit to Tuol Sleng feels like a moral punch to the teeth and a definite humbling for anyone visiting Cambodia. Tuol Sleng, also known as S21, was a former school turned into a rudimentary prison and house of torture for the Khmer Rouge. It is extremely graphic and the state of decay the museum is in adds to the traumatic element of the site. This is the real deal, blood from who knows what type of activity still stains the floor and cells smaller than dog kennels litter the prison site. Tools and methods of torture are displayed rather nonchalantly and photos of the victims are prominently displayed showcasing unimaginable looks of defeat. To understand the plight of Cambodia, you need to spend an afternoon here. You get to visit on your own terms, and that fact will hit home like a ton of bricks as you immerse yourself in the toxic environment.

Insanely tiny cell, one of many at S21

2. Choeung Ek , the Killing Fields

Another site of Khmer Rouge brutalities, the killings fields are on exhibit to showcase one of many mass gravesites used by the regime to exterminate their victims.  Somber is an understatement, and as you walk around the pits that used to house hundreds of victims you observe articles of clothing and fragments of bone that once belonged to a living human being. A gigantic pagoda stands tall to commemorate the victims of the Pol Pot years and to serve as a reminder that human nature can be downright fucking disgusting. After these two visits, you will have nightmares, but the rawness and realness of such a tragedy needs to be observed to be believed, and after leaving you will have a much greater appreciation of your own life situation and will think twice before complaining that your barista fucked up your green tea latte.

Pagoda at the Killing Fields

3. Morning Market

On a brighter note, go to the morning market that specializes in selling all kinds of delicious food. Sanitary conditions might be suspect, but the miniature bananas are delicious and abundant. In fact, the market goes on all day but we had the best results around 7:30 in the morning and got to witness vendors setting up their camp for the day which was definitely interesting, lots of work to set up a temporary shop. The market is a few blocks off the Quay and around central Phnom Penh on a wide French designed street; if you are in the area you can’t miss it.

4. Riverside Stroll

If one area seems totally out of place in the chaos of Phnom Penh, it’s Sisowath Quay.  The riverside walkway has been upgraded by a foreign injection of capital and looks polished and complete amongst a city where dilapidation runs rampant. Although the Quay wasn’t constructed entirely for aesthetic purposes it serves to provide people with a place for a wide berthed stroll, a rarity in a city overflowing with vehicles, vendor stands and sidewalk shops. Expect to encounter beggars alongside the riverside scenery of the Quay but that’s inevitable considering it is one of the nicest parts of town.

5. Wander the Streets

Wandering the streets is an excellent way to absorb the vibe of a city, go armed with a map and a couple of dollars for a ride home and you are set to experience one of the most unique street experiences of South East Asia. The chaotic nature of Phnom Penh becomes apparent as you wander the streets or come to an intersection. Undeniably dusty roads kick up clouds of sand as an ungodly magnitude of tuk tuks rip by, mechanics core out truck engines on the sidewalk and let the oil go wherever the uneven ground takes it and the mish mash of electrical wires above your head will invoke visions of a supersonic Charlotte’s web.  The streets are home to real life in Phnom Penh and everyone is doing their best to make a living, get out there and have a look for yourself, be safe and likely do this in the day time.

The Streets of Phnom Penh

6.  Sweat it out at the Russian Market

We were on the hunt for some kramas and decided the best place to look would be the Russian Market. The inappropriately named market which has nothing to do with Russia is home to a dizzying array of consumer options. Stands along the outside sell some pretty decent knock off clothes where vendors “claimed” their gear to be slightly defective brand name merchandise, a fact that very well may be true due to the unbelievably concentration of massive clothing brands that operate manufacturing facilities in Phnom Penh. The interior of the market is a labyrinth, I felt like I was in the dark cave in Zelda II: the Adventures of Link, the second you get in you are disoriented. Since it was summer, the mercury soared above 35 degrees Celsius outside and trapped an astonishing amount of heat on the interior of the market. We wandered the market for over an hour, checking out locally made goods and mass produced products alike before we settled on two handmade kramas from a young gal just starting up her shop. In fact, she sewed the scarves right in front of us and we had a great conversation about business ownership in bustling Phnom Penh. Bring water and expect to get lost, if you find something you want, buy it on the spot because there is no way you are going to find the exact stand again unless you leave a trail of breadcrumbs on your path.

7. Stock Up on Cheap Books

Without a doubt, while you are in Phnom Penh you will be greeted by wide eyed youngsters keen on selling you the latest (bootleg) copy of a Lonely Planet or the newest Anne Rice novel or whatever. I personally don’t recommend purchasing anything from the kids, it is really hard to say no, but the cash you are giving them is doing little or nothing to benefit their lives as it’s all going to someone else. Instead, find a half legitimate bookstore in the capital that specializes in selling bootleg copies of your favorite novels. Obviously “bootleg” and “legitimate” are huge juxtapositions, but I must say we found a few storefronts that had excellent prices on very high quality copy books. Since we were traveling long term, we decided to stock up on a few titles to carry along with us as we caroused around Asia. Cheap to buy, easy to read and abundant in nature, Phnom Penh bookstores are where it’s at for the thrifty, traveling, literature connoisseur (remember, don’t buy books from the kids!)

We ripped out of Ulaanbaatar and into Russia to our first stop in Ulan Ude. We were dropped off across from the quintessential Commie square where we were stared down by a gigantic cast of Vladimir Lenin’s head. There was no mistake of what country we were in, and Siberia turned out to be a visual treat. I say this because we were there on the tail end of summer to absorb some of the last possible sunrays before reverting to the permafrosted state that the area is so well known for. Check the pics, and make your next beach holiday in Siberia. No joke.