Since its inception in 1969, Zenith’s groundbreaking El Primero movement – the first automatic, integrated, high-frequency chronograph caliber – has been synonymous with the classic complication. Now, Zenith takes the essence of this historically significant movement and highlights the high-frequency component with its first time-only application in the Chronomaster line.

With the new Chronomaster Solo Sport, form and function go hand in hand. The three-hand display offers a design that is decidedly less sporty than its chronograph counterparts. However, the new collection continues a throughline we’ve seen within the Chronomaster lineup, making it both fresh and familiar to the model family.

The Solo Sport has a 40mm build that fits well within the Chronomaster range of 37mm for the vintage-inspired revival models up to 41mm for the standard chronograph sport models. As we’ve also seen in the typical sport models, the Solo Sport models feature a ceramic, unidirectional rotating bezel. Ceramic extends to the dial, which presents a new “Z” pattern. Depending on the version – white, black, or brown – this pattern is engraved on either a sunray-finished white ceramic dial or a polished black or brown ceramic surface. Additionally, the black version is also offered in a no-date variant for a total of four Solo Sport styles.

The “Z” motif is repeated once more on the stylization of the seconds hand. The more geometric elements of this dial design continue with the “shark tooth” minute track at the periphery, which introduces a highly segmented reading of time inspired by historical Zenith references. I can’t say I’m a huge fan of the patterned or textured dials that we’ve increasingly seen in modern iterations of sport models across many brands. However, the combination of the “Z” motif across the dial and seconds hand along with the “shark tooth” minute track does provide a nice angular or linear contrast to the softer curves of the true round case and the architecture of the three-link bracelet.

Speaking of the bracelet, each is secured by the newly developed Zenclasp folding clasp, which made its debut at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. This exclusive new design also balances form and function. It’s highly ergonomic with smooth, rounded lines that fit nicely to the wrist, and its safety-lock system and integrated micro-adjustment mechanism allow for quick and precise resizing directly on the wrist without tools, enabling 2.5mm increments with a total extension range of 10mm. While it long felt like the bracelet was often an afterthought, it’s a welcome change of pace to see so many brands, like Zenith, really thinking of the watch holistically and placing renewed attention on the fit and functionality of the bracelet and clasp design.

Of course, the heart of the Solo Sport deserves equal attention. Here, you have none other than the famed El Primero movement – the 3620 to be exact. Operating at 5 Hz (36,000 VpH), this automatic manufacture caliber preserves the high-frequency signature that has defined El Primero since its introduction. Yet, the construction has also evolved over time with modern upgrades like a silicon escapement, a stop-second mechanism, and a bi-directional winding system with a star-shaped rotor.

Each of the four new versions of the Chonomaster Solo Sport join Zenith’s permanent catalog today, with prices starting at $9,800 for the no date iteration and going up to $10,900 for the date versions. For more information, head over directly to Zenith. 

Christopher Ward has recently expanded their Trident family with the C60 Trident Biscay, set to replace the C65 Aquitaine. The UK-based watchmaker has pulled inspiration from two reference points: the skin divers of the 1960’s and the collection’s namesake, the Bay of Biscay  – which, for anyone who struggles with geography like moi, is the body of water nestled between the northern coast of Spain and the western coast of France and not Biscayne Bay, which is a lagoon in Florida. The end result is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, C60 Trident Biscay GMT, and C60 Trident Biscay Bronze.

The first in the collection is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, available in 39mm and 42mm stainless steel cases. It uses Christopher Ward’s Light-catcher case with a slim 11mm profile and box sapphire crystal. This particular model also includes a granular dial, minimal text, and applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The Automatic is available in black, sand/black, and black/red and has a price tag starting at $1,870.

Next is the GMT, which also comes in 39mm and 42mm sizes. Here, Christopher Ward has added a fourth hand for tracking another time zone and a bi-directional aluminum bezel in two-tone color combinations. The framed date window replaces the 6 o’clock numeral, while the surface-hardened bezel has a hardness level of 250HV, which Christopher Ward says is 67% harder than untreated aluminum. The GMT is available in black/red and sand/blue, and is priced from $1,995.

To round out the collection is the Bronze model, which comes only in 39mm and introduces a marine-grade aluminum bronze alloy to Christopher Ward’s lineup. The alloy CuAl10Ni5Fe4 contains roughly 10% aluminum, 5% nickel, and 4% iron, and was chosen for its resistance to seawater corrosion, wear, and erosion. The Bronze is available in either brown or green, and is priced from $2,095.

The Automatic uses the COSC-certified Sellita SW300-1 with 56 hours of power reserve, while the GMT uses the COSC-certified Sellita SW330-2. The Bronze uses the COSC-certified Sellita SW300-1 b. All three models have 200 meters of water resistance and use Christopher Ward’s custom-pigmented Super-LumiNova Grade X1 BL.

All models within the C60 Trident Biscay collection come in a variety of strap options, including the new Hybrid strap and Vintage Oak leather strap. The steel models are also available on Bader and Consort bracelets. 

A selection of the C60 Trident Biscay is available now, with more expected to be made available in the coming months. You can find out more via Christopher Ward’s website.

We knew some big moments would come as Tudor notches its impressive 100th anniversary as a brand this year, and this is one of them: the revival of the North Flag. The aptly named collection has come to serve as the north star for Tudor’s modern offerings and set the tone for the brand in the past decade. When the model first debuted in 2015, it marked the first Tudor watch to house an in-house movement coupled with an exhibition caseback to show it off.

The COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 that powered the original was just the jumping off point for Tudor to upgrade models across its catalog with manufacture movements and chronometer certification. Now, in the newly revived North Flag line, we get even greater attention on technical capabilities with METAS certification, giving it Master Chronometer status, as well as the addition of a GMT complication.Despite the advancements we’ve seen throughout the North Flag collection and in the newest edition today, the model remains deeply rooted in Tudor’s history and makes for a fitting addition to its 100th anniversary offerings. The Ranger II from 1973 has served as the historic touchpoint for the collection since its inception.

There are several key design codes that create a throughline from the Ranger II to the original North Flag and now the latest edition. These include the black dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, the arrow-shaped 24-hour and hours hands coupled with an angular seconds hand and a baton-shaped minutes hand (a combination deemed “Northflag” hands), and lastly, the integrated bracelet. Within these core elements, Tudor has made subtle improvements, like rendering the hour markers in monobloc luminous ceramic and pairing them with a rehaut sporting a 24-hour graduation angled at 45 degrees. The handset also gets a luminescent treatment with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova, and the two-link bracelet is now fitted with Tudor’s T-fit rapid adjustment clasp.

With the new edition of the North Flag, Tudor highlights the nuances and level of detail that can go into an integrated bracelet design. Here, the case and bracelet must appear to work together in perfect harmony. To achieve the visually continuous effect between the bracelet and case, matching design details have been conceived for the case, starting with the finish, featuring various types of satin brushes depending on the part of the case. Mirroring the bracelet execution, polished chamfers highlight the top of the lugs and bezel respectively. The subtly cone-shaped winding crown also is rendered in a matte finish with a combination of satin-brushing and bead-blasting.Inside the 40mm stainless steel case of the new North Flag, you’ll find the Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U displaying hours, minutes, seconds, the date, and GMT functions. The movement boasts both COSC and METAS certification and offers a “weekend proof” power reserve of 65 hours. The model brings Tudor one step closer to its goal of its entire catalog being Master Chronometer certified.

Altogether, the next evolution of the North Flag presents some subtle yet impactful updates in both form and function while retaining its essence. Most notably, the absence of the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock makes for a cleaner dial layout while the addition of the GMT complication only makes a minor impact on aesthetics and legibility while packing a punch in terms of upgraded technical capabilities. The new model is modern and improved yet still classic and feels like a welcome re-edition to the brand’s catalog. The North Flag is priced at $5,525. For more information, head over directly to Tudor.

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires.

King George III, who reigned from 1760 to 1820, had a deep interest in science, particularly astronomy, horology, mathematics, and natural philosophy. He was one of the most scientifically minded British monarchs and commissioned several important horological instruments and supported scientific institutions during his reign.

King George III (1738–1820) is often remembered for his struggles with mental illness during his long reign, but he was also deeply engaged in science, astronomy, and horology. Although his interest did not necessarily come directly from his grandfather, King George II, there are examples of important commissions made prior to him succeeding to the throne. One such piece is the magnificent Grand Orrery below made by leading London maker, Thomas Wright in 1733.

It is believed George III’s father, Frederick, Prince of Wales, was keen that he was taught astronomy, mathematics, and the natural sciences from a young age by tutors such as John Stuart, Earl of Bute. Frederick died before becoming king, leaving his son George III to inherit the throne. George III’s scientific and horological interests were products of Enlightenment Britain, which continued throughout his reign.

Often the royal family used their connections to the leading makers to bestow gifts on those who served them. A good example of this being the Barnard Tompion miniature table clock below. It is thought to have been made for Queen Anne in c.1708 and was given to Andrew Stone by King George II before 1760. Stone was Royal Secretary to the King and also a tutor of the future King George III.

King George III’s coronation took place on the 22nd September 1761 and was one of the most elaborate spectacles of 18th-century Britain, setting the tone for his long reign. George became king at age 22. It was paired with the coronation of his new wife, Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, whom he had married just two weeks earlier.

The ceremony was vast and theatrical, costing around £70,000 (£13 Million in today’s money). It included grand processions through the streets, enormous feasts, and lavish pageantry. The coronation drew immense crowds, as it was one of the biggest state events in living memory.

The coronation was both celebrated and mocked. While it impressed many, some contemporaries criticised the extravagance and disorganization (there were even complaints of rowdy behaviour and seating chaos in the Abbey – see above admission ticket).

The Age of Enlightenment

The Age of Enlightenment, which swept across Europe in the 18th century, created the cultural and intellectual climate that shaped George III’s outlook as king. This was a period when reason, science, and discovery were celebrated as the keys to progress. Thinkers and innovators challenged old authorities, advanced astronomy, mathematics, and physics, and looked to precise measurement and observation as the path to understanding the world.

Rather than inheriting scientific curiosity from his grandfather George II as previously mentioned, he absorbed the Enlightenment spirit through his education and personal interests. He became a patron of astronomy, supported figures like William Herschel, and even built his own observatory at Kew which opened in 1769 (below).

His fascination with horology and the science of timekeeping fit naturally into this broader culture of precision and progress. Accurate clocks weren’t just marvels of craftsmanship; they were essential for navigation, astronomy, and the expanding global ambitions of Britain.

George’s reign began towards the end of ‘The Golden Age of English Clockmaking’ when England—especially London—became the world leader in horology. This outstanding regulator clock below was made by Royal Clockmaker Benjamin Vulliamy (1747-1811) in 1780 for King George III and was used at the King’s Observatory at Kew. It is set in a polished mahogany case, with a side plate and glass top for the case.

A regulator clock is a highly accurate timepiece, usually used for making precise measurements in conjunction with astronomical observation. This is the movement from the clock made by Benjamin Vulliamy and used as the principal timekeeper at the King’s Observatory at Kew. 

Rollers act as the bearings for the wheelwork, reducing the friction and the need for lubrication. For similar reasons the clock was also fitted with the grasshopper escapement invented by the pioneer of the chronometer, John Harrison (1693-1776). Harrison`s gridiron pendulum was also incorporated to ensure that the clock kept good time by compensating for changes of temperature.

This impressive Mural Arc (or Quadrant), now in the Science Museum in South Kensington, is made of brass and iron and has an eight-foot radius. It was made in London by Jeremiah Sisson for King George III’s private observatory, where it was installed in 1770. Signed and dated ‘J. Sisson. London. 1770.’ and divided with a 142-degree scale. It was fixed to the observatory wall and used to measure the altitude of stars or the sun.

A Royal Passion for Science

George was deeply interested in science, agriculture, and technology. He was affectionately known as the ‘Farmer King’ (or sometimes ‘Farmer George’), due to his deep personal interest in agriculture and rural life. He was fascinated by new farming techniques and scientific agriculture, which were part of the broader Agricultural Revolution in Britain. He encouraged innovations such as crop rotation, soil improvement, and selective breeding of livestock.

However, his support for the Royal Observatory, Greenwich Mean Time, and scientific societies led to various new inventions, such as this magnificent philosophical table made for the King by George Adams, Fleet Street, London, 1761-62.

The philosophical table was the centrepiece of the mechanics apparatus made for the King just after he ascended the throne in 1760. It has a pillar in three pieces, two wooden rings and wooden nut; vertical board with ivory scale and backing board for pendulum experiments are attached. A range of attachments for use in different experiments were supplied with the table including the isochronous pendulum, the collision apparatus, the central forces apparatus and others. 

His passion for knowledge was genuine; he corresponded with leading scientists, supported the Royal Society, and took a personal role in advancing British technological achievements.

Timekeeping fascinated him not only for its precision but for its practical utility. He understood that a nation governed by the clock was a nation poised to thrive. From Windsor to Greenwich, the king’s patronage was vital in nurturing horology—an essential tool in his vision for a modern, enlightened monarchy.

Solving the Problem of Longitude

George understood the importance of accurate timekeeping in navigation and empire-building. He championed the inventor of the marine chronometer and their crucial role in solving the longitude problem. His support accelerated technological advances with practical geopolitical impact.

The story of finding Longitude has been told many times, but finding a solution to this challenge fundamentally changed the world and began the quest for precision timing. It was John Harrison who spent the best part of forty years of his life to solve the problem.

By the early 1770s, Harrison — then in his late 70s — had already built his famous H1 to H4 timekeepers, with H4 proving in sea trials that it could accurately determine longitude. However, Harrison was continually denied full recognition and prize money by the Board of Longitude, which was sceptical and slow to acknowledge his achievement.

This is where George III intervened and in 1772, Harrison presented H5 to the King at his private Kew Observatory. George personally supervised the testing of the clock’s accuracy over a period of 10 weeks. The trials proved that H5 kept time with extraordinary precision, losing only about 1/3 of a second per day — a feat unmatched at the time.

Quote: “By God, Harrison, I shall see you righted!”

King George III, after personally verifying H5’s accuracy and being outraged by the treatment Harrison received from the Board of Longitude.

Thanks to George’s public support, the government was forced to award Harrison a large portion of the prize money — although not the full amount — before his death in 1776 aged 82 years old.

A Royal Collector of Great Taste and Appreciation

Although George revelled in science and precision timekeeping, he also admired the finest craft and workmanship that was evident by the finest watchmakers of the time. This is borne out by the beautiful watch he gifted to his wife Queen Charlotte as seen below.

This ‘Cylinder escapement ‘dumb repeater’ watch by Conyers Dunlop, with enamelled gold case signed by George Michael Moser, was made for Queen Charlotte (1744-1818). It has a white enamel dial with steel beetle hands and an aperture for winding. A ‘dumb repeater’ is a watch which repeats the time by striking hammers onto the inside of the case rather than on a bell or gong. This has the effect of feeling a vibration rather than hearing a sound, much like the silent mode of a mobile phone today.

I have the pleasure of seeing this exquisite watch every week during my tour as it is on display in the Clockmakers’ Museum at the Science Museum in South Kensington.

Perhaps one of the most historically significant and technically advanced timepieces of its era was Breguet No. 1297 which was a remarkable pocket watch owned by King George III, showcasing both technical brilliance and royal intrigue. Made by the legendary Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet in c.1808, this timepiece was one of the earliest tourbillon watches ever created — a mechanism invented by Breguet to improve accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity on the escapement.

This four-minute tourbillon pocket watch means the tourbillon carriage makes a full rotation every four minutes, rather than the usual one minute. The movement uses a Robin escapement, which is rare and makes this particular watch unique among its series. It also has a thermometer, marked ‘Heat, Temperate, Cold’, a stop-slide or timing-seconds dial and a power reserve indicator.

Because Britain and France were at war during the Napoleonic period, Breguet had to sell the watch discreetly, as trade between the two countries was restricted. The watch bears no visible maker’s signature on the dial or movement — an unusual precaution for such a masterwork, intended to hide its French origin. The watch is signed No.1297

Recordon, London. Louis Recordon was a Swiss-born watchmaker and agent for Breguet representing his interests in London during this period.

While in England, the watch could have been signed by Recordon and housed in an English case crafted by Louis Comtesse. Upon its return to Paris, Breguet likely installed the tourbillon carriage, which he personally signed. The engine-turned decoration of the case, together with the addition of a dial featuring English inscriptions, would have lent the watch an authentic English identity—allowing it to be sent back to London without arousing suspicion.

Due to its royal patronage, its technical ambition, i.e. thermometer, English wording, rare escapement, and its exquisite decorative work, it has been described as ‘a masterpiece fit for a king’.

The watch was first bought by the King George in 1808 for 4,800 French francs, today that would be equivalent to c.£200,000. It sold at Sotheby’s on the 14th of July, 2020 for £1.6 million.

The Start of a ‘Modern-Day’ Royal Collection That Lives On

King George III is widely regarded as the founder of the modern Royal Collection. He bought major works of art, horological items, scientific instruments, books, and furniture — not for personal pleasure alone, but as a national and educational resource. He also established the Royal Library and encouraged cataloguing and preservation, laying the groundwork for today’s Royal Collection Trust.

Later, in the 19th century, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert further developed the Collection, turning it into a publicly accessible national treasure, particularly through displays at royal residences like Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace which are still on show today.

George III’s legacy in science and horology lies in his genuine intellectual curiosity and commitment to precision, which helped make Britain a leader in scientific investigation and watchmaking excellence during the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

What happens when a watch goes viral? Well, besides the obvious – everyone sees them, everyone buys them, second hand prices go crazy – you know the deal. That’s exactly what happened with the DWC Terra – a unique take on the field watch by the small Indian brand, Delhi Watch Co. Military-inspired field watches out there have their charm, but they all tend to blend in. For good reason too – they’re built to a military specification that calls out for case size, dial markings, and beyond — generally sticking to a formula that makes sense when it needs to be as standard as a uniform. That’s where the DWC Terra takes a huge turn. It’s a field watch, but looks more like something that would be at home on the wrist of one of the deep space truckers in Alien than it does something that’d be worn down here on Earth. They stick to the classic field watch simplicity, but the package represents something new that we’ve never seen before in the watch world. Let’s take a closer look at this interesting, affordable, and unique take on the field watch.

In case you missed it, this watch has a pretty fair amount of hype going around it. Sold out in a flash with Ticketmaster-style online queues that were thousands long, the Terra made a pretty big impact when it hit the market. DWC is short for Delhi Watch Company — a small brand based out of Delhi, India that focuses on watches with unique designs at a reasonable price point. The Terra hits both of those with ease.

 

Case

You may be wondering, what does a 32 x 44mm watch even look like? Well, it’s not traditional. That’s for sure. The Terra is unapologetically rectangular. It’s 32mm wide by 44mm tall with not a hint of curvature to be found. I really don’t think this watch would work had it been any bigger. The rectangle is just small enough to sit on top of my 6.75” wrist with minimal overhang. Lugs? Where we’re going, we don’t need no lugs. Just some carabiner-inspired cuts made into the case itself. With alternating openings on each side, you simply slip a strap through the slot and off you go. The Terra was offered in a limited edition of 5500 units, rendered in a textured titanium material. A larger batch in sandblasted stainless steel was also offered on pre-order, but have since sold out. Either way, both metals are a good look. The titanium leans darker and more grey, while the stainless version is a brighter silver. 

This watch is interesting in its simplicity. There’s not a whole lot of finishing going on, there are minimal (zero?) curves, and the features are kept to a bare minimum. The only hint of decoration is the angled slots cut into the case that go all the way through. I like this little touch, as it adds some visual appeal and keeps things interesting while remaining rather simple. A nice, domed Schott glass crystal tops off the dial, while a simple stainless steel case back protrudes out the back a few millimeters. Pictures here are really worth a thousand words (honestly, maybe even more). 

On the right side of the case, you’ll find a push down crown at 3 o’clock that’s inset just a little bit, giving the crown some protection from bumps. The crown itself is angular with several flat surfaces. It reminded me of the crown on the AP Royal Oak. No, I’m not comparing a $50 field watch to an AP, but that’s the first thing that came to mind.  

With the initial batches being built on borrowed water jet equipment, then moving to contracted wire EDM cutting, and eventually full CNC machining for the larger preorder batch, DWC is aiming to bring production of case components completely in-house in subsequent batches of the Terra. The brand informed me that they have strong domestic interest in the India market, but nothing for DWC has taken off internationally quite as strong as the Terra. 

Dial + Hands

The dial is about as field watch as it gets. An hour track runs around the outside marking 1-12, while smaller numerals towards the center run from 13-24. The branding is super minimal, which I appreciate when there’s not a whole lot of free space on the dial to go around. The brand’s name, Delhi Watch Company is in small text at the top just outside the minute track, while the model name, Terra, rests just below the center of the dial. A set of brushed syringe hands tell the time, while an orange-tipped seconds hand ticks its way around the dial. Rendered in a pale yellow color, the printed indices and minute track are easy to read against the base black dial. There’s what DWC is calling “vintage Japanese lume” applied to the hands and main set of numerals. It’s not particularly bright and doesn’t last all that long, but it’s decent. Not great, not terrible.

Movement

Inside the Terra, you’ll find a quartz Miyota GL32 movement. It’s a slim quartz movement with three hands and no date complication. They’re rated for +/- 20 seconds per month and should last somewhere around 3 years on a single battery. The movement is small, affordable, and certainly fits the use case and price of the Terra nicely. No complaints here. 

Strap + Wearability

Perhaps the most interesting part about the Terra is the rectangular case and how it wears on wrist. The “lugs” don’t curve down towards your wrist, there’s nothing about the case shape that should work on a human wrist, but it does. I think that’s largely due to the overall sizing. The watch isn’t all that big, and that allows for the rectangular shape to be fully contained by most wrists. When I think of rectangular watches, the first thing to come to mind is the Cartier Tank. Another watch that’s a bit curvier, but is still largely rectangular. The Terra measures in at 32mm x 44mm, while the Tank XL measures in at 31mm x 41mm. They’re pretty close in size, proving that there’s enough justification in the market for a rectangular watch to be wearable enough to actually sell some units. The main difference between the two is the dial. While the rectangular dial on the Cartier takes up most of the real estate on the top of the watch, the DWC’s is limited to a small circle, letting more of the case be seen. Again, I’m not comparing a $50 field watch from a 5 year old brand to a $5000+ luxury watch directly. They both happen to be wearable rectangles that tell the time. Ultimately, the sizing of the DWC is what makes it wearable, but there is a caveat. 

The strap connects to the watch by way of two slots cut directly into the case. They’re more akin to a fixed lug than a traditional spring bar setup. This does make pairing a strap to the watch a bit difficult and does limit the options that you have. I’d say that anything outside of a custom two piece strap will not work. The holes for spring bars in traditional straps are MUCH smaller than the lug openings on the DWC and physically will not work. While the DWC will work with mil-strap style nylon straps, I would advise being careful about which one you choose. Thicker and/or stiffer straps will have a hard time running underneath the watch and then curving up and around the chunky, straight lugs. The result with a thicker strap has what I call the seagull effect. Bear with me, we’re coining new terms here. When you look at the watch from the side, the strap arches up and around the lugs, back down towards your wrist, looking like a crude drawing of a seagull. Really, the thicker strap just makes the watch wear worse. 

Good news though, the watch comes with a thin, stretchy, flexible fabric strap that works really well with the lug shape. I also really like these knock off Garmin straps from Amazon that I wear on my CWC all the time. They’re similar to the Apple Watch Sport bands with a velcro closure. At around $20 for three straps, you can’t beat the price and comfort. 

Conclusion

Coming in at just under $50, the Terra represents what I believe to be one of the most unique watches of the past several years at a price point that almost seems impossible. $50 barely gets you a G-Shock these days, and it’s impressive that DWC is able to achieve this level of cool at such an attainable price point. Getting one is a different story though. With initial batches long sold out and a closed pre-order, DWC is currently playing catch up. They’re working hard behind the scenes to prepare to ship over 30,000 watches to customers and are building out their internal QC and shipping teams to achieve the task. 

The story of the DWC Terra is impressive. A small brand making a very affordable, truly unique watch. They’re definitely worth keeping an eye on going forward, I know they’ve got my attention. If the Terra was a bit easier to buy, adding one to your collection would be a no-brainer. DWC

When it comes to watchmaking, it’s usually a marathon not a sprint. Bringing a model to life is a lesson in patience, and, well, timing. A tale we often hear about how a watch came to be starts with a chance meeting, some curiosity or perhaps even instant synergy, and then intention and hard work. This echoes the origin story of the new Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò, the brainchild of William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, along with Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the co-founders of Atelier Wen.

The collaboration takes the name “Shuò,” from the Chinese character 烁, which can be translated as “sparkling,” “glittering,” or “radiant.” This aptly describes the shimmering and reflective qualities of hand tremblage – the rare and demanding decorative craft that graces the dial. For the new collaboration, the technique has been entirely executed by hand engraving specialist Coralie Mercier on behalf of GT Cadrans. To achieve the beautiful finish, Mercier pushes a graver across the 18-karat gold surface of the dial while continuously oscillating it. This meticulous work slowly develops a texture thanks to thousands of tiny irregular facets.

The tremblage portion of the main dial plate lays the foundation with a radially brushed sector of either white gold or rose gold creating a border. The smooth contrast of this portion around the periphery houses the hour markers. Here, the brands offer a playful twist on the California dial layout with a mix of custom serif Arabic numerals for hours 10 through 2 and hand-calligraphed Chinese numerals commissioned by Atelier Wen for hours 4 to 8, all of which are blue-filled to match the blued-steel hour, minute, and second hands. For continuity, the outer sector ring is finished with more hand tremblage and framed by a finely engraved huiwen border, a classic Chinese decorative motif named for its resemblance to the Chinese character 回.

As if tackling the rigorous technique of tremblage was not enough, the case and integrated bracelet have been meticulously crafted from tantalum – a notoriously difficult metal to machine and finish. The difficulty of working with tantalum is further heightened by the design language of the Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò. Here, the 40mm tantalum case and bracelet are inspired by Chinese architectural forms, which are centralized around curves and feature almost no flat planes whatsoever. However, if the full bracelet look isn’t quite your style, there’s also the option of either a blue or a grey sailcloth strap.

Beating at the heart of the model is a customized caliber GP03300 from Girard-Perregaux. Here, attention to detail continues with the curved, sweeping lines of the bridges taking inspiration from the depiction of wind found in historical Chinese paintings.

The white gold dial version is offered exclusively to established clients of either brand in a highly limited run of just 10 pieces. Alternatively, the rose gold dial variation is available to the public with production capped at 40 pieces. Both iterations are priced at $44,100. For more information you can go directly over to either Atelier Wen or Massena LAB.   

The field watch has long provided a blank canvas for creative – or in many cases not so creative – designs. Leave it to a brand like Studio Underd0g to take a timeless classic and give it a fresh and decidedly fun spin. That’s exactly what the brand did in 2023 with the launch of its 02SERIES.

The line recently got a glow up with Gen2, which notably introduced a more streamlined case – down to a 37mm diameter from the original 37.5mm and down to 11.5mm thickness from the original 12mm. In addition, the new Gen2 collection got an upgraded movement from the Sellita SW210-1 to the Sellita SW200-2 M, which in turn upped the power reserve from 42 hours to 63 hours. Still, the biggest departure we see from the run of the mill field watch is the use of color – a trait Studio Underd0g has become known for – with four shades: Red L0lly, Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, and Nightshade. Now, for the first time, a limited color run comes to the Gen2 series – this is the Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis.

For this limited edition, we don’t just get a bright new green colorway by day – we get one that glows bright green by night. Yup, that’s right – it’s a full-lume dial. Thanks to a generous application of X1 GL C3 Super-LumiNova (a whopping seven layers to be exact), the daytime green ombre transforms into a single, uniform glow once the light fades.

Here, at the base, you have that well-refined case design of the new Gen2 makeup. The dial gets a pleasing green color palette, fading from a yellowy-lime hue to a more blued mint green in subtle gradation. For a bit of legibility and contrast without disrupting the overall monochromatic color scheme, the hands are filled with true yellow. The green theme continues to the strap with an “herb” washed suede that reads as a deep forest green from The Strap Tailor. This final touch keeps the overall look cohesive while also adding a nice interplay of light and dark.

While this model is undeniably colorful and playful, the daytime look is also fairly neutral, and I imagine it would be pretty versatile in pairing well with a variety of ensembles. However, the lumed-out nighttime look is certainly bolder and commands wrist attention. The green here appears to be more electric and neon than the gradient dial, as one would expect from the glow of lume.

The real kicker here is a very narrow window to grab one of the new Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis models for your collection. Tomorrow, September 1, the model will be sold for just nine hours, from 3pm to 12am BST or 9am to 6pm EST. In addition, a small allocation will also be reserved for those booking an appointment at Studio Underd0g’s in-house facility, The D0ghouse. However, once the order window closes, the Mantis will be discontinued.

Despite the exclusivity, the model is priced the same as the other permanent editions in Studio Underd0g’s catalog at $1,200. For more information and to snag yours before the sales close, head over directly to Studio Underd0g. 

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.

The Pitt Season 3 Trailer

As many of you may know, I live in the Pittsburgh area, and while I wouldn’t say I have any hometown pride –  I’ve been trying to leave this place for the better part of a decade – it’s always funny to see the Steel City onscreen. Sure, we have Flashdance, The Deer Hunter, and The Perks of Being a Wallflower, but Pittsburgh also remains a reliable stand-in for Middle America and salt-of-the-earth people. And no show on TV right now exemplifies that more than The Pitt which has become, somewhat inexplicably to me, one of HBO’s breakout dramas.

While I don’t really like medical shows (I’m squeamish) it is fun to hear the local references scattered throughout the series, with even more likely now that the season 3 trailer has just dropped. The new season picks up a few months later, with Noah Wyle’s Dr. Robby returning to the emergency department after some time away. We’re also likely to see more of the hospital’s ongoing fallout from the previous season, including the staff’s changing dynamics, emergency psychiatry, and the policy changes affecting day-to-day care. 

The new season of The Pitt is set to premiere on HBO Max in January 2027.

Mr Jones Watches Open Call

I don’t know if you’ve ever seen one of those websites where you can have a kid’s drawing turned into a stuffed animal, but I’ve always found them so charming. Imagine one of your silly little doodles coming to life as something you could actually hold. I’d cherish that thing forever, and undoubtedly brag about it to anyone who would have listened.

Sadly, the charm of stuffed animals wears off somewhere in the prepubescent era, and we can’t all stay young forever, folks. A watch, though? That may just be the adult version. If you were one of those kids who always wanted to turn a drawing into something tangible, you might want to enter Mr Jones Watches’ Young Designers Open Call. 

The brand is inviting creatives ages 18 to 25 to design a watch that tells time in an interesting way (you can see some of Mr Jones’ own watches here to get the ol’ brainstorm going). The winner will receive a £3,000 prize and 300 watches will be produced as a limited run. Submissions are open until September 25 and you can find out more information here. 

And please, for the love of God, don’t use AI here, people!

Robot Olympics

Doesn’t anyone remember that episode with the robot dogs in Black Mirror? Or, I mean, the entire Terminator franchise? I’m not sure about you, but I’ve always taken science fiction to be a warning, in a way. And now, with the World Humanoid Robot Games held in Beijing, I think we’re getting a lot closer to The Matrix than I feel comfortable with.

At the “Robot Olympics”, a Chinese humanoid robot named Tiangong Ultra ran the 100 meters in 8.64 seconds, while the event itself brought together more than 2,000 robots from 666 teams across 51 disciplines, including sports, factory work, restaurant tasks, office settings, and emergency simulations. Sure, some of these robots may still look like rough drafts of C-3PO, but I can’t help but worry that this rapid, almost frictionless adoption of robots that can run, like, a two-minute mile is a bit terrifying, don’t you think?

Samsung Ordered to Pay Swatch

How much would you say a watch face is worth? Well, I’d hope a bit more than $300, which is apparently what Samsung argued Swatch was owed after copycat watch faces appeared on the Galaxy app store.

A London High Court judge has ordered Samsung to pay Swatch Group $11.6 million over third-party smartwatch apps that mimicked designs from brands including Omega, Longines, Tissot, Breguet, and Blancpain. Swatch had sought roughly $170 million, while Samsung argued the apps were made by outside developers and that the actual damages were closer to a few hundred dollars. The court ultimately ruled in favor of Swatch, finding that Samsung was liable for watch faces it allowed to appear in its app store.

Rest in Peace, Dolly Parton and Tim Curry

This week, we lost two of probably the most universally loved celebrities in the modern era: Dolly Parton and Tim Curry. Both passed away at the age of 80, and both deaths came as a surprise to their millions of fans. Each seemed, in a way, to be eternal, having punctuated the lives of people who first found their work at very different moments – their work didn’t belong to just one generation.

Depending on your age, you may have met Dolly through “Jolene,” “I Will Always Love You,” 9 to 5, Dollywood, the Imagination Library, or even as a guest star on Hannah Montana. The same goes for Curry, whose career stretched from Dr. Frank-N-Furter in The Rocky Horror Picture Show to Clue, It, Muppet Treasure Island, and The Wild Thornberrys. 

While celebrity deaths have never really affected me, I will say that Dolly’s did. Being a gay child in rural America, Parton’s persona offered a gentler, more loving version of acceptance than the one I often saw around me. And when I first saw Rocky Horror, Curry made self-acceptance feel like a power, not a struggle.

You can read more about Dolly Parton’s incredible life here, and Tim Curry’s here.

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion.

Vintage CompuChron LED

You gotta love a good vintage LED, especially when it comes with the box and papers! This example is a nice, chunky CompuChron in stainless steel. The space-age steel case is excellent with sharp edges and original mix of brushed and polished finishes. The LED screen looks nice and clear, and the printed CompuChron logo is crisp. The watch comes on the correct and original integrated steel bracelet with a signed buckle. Best of all it comes with the original box and instruction manual, which is always handy. The watch runs and all the LED segments light up. Really fun piece that’s in amazing condition. 

View auction here

Vintage Seiko Seikomatic 

Here is a sweet vintage Seiko Seikomatic from 1966. Seller doesn’t state, but this should be a 38mm case size. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges on the cool, angular lugs. The classic Seiko silver dial is clean, with nice clear writing and applied steel baton markers. Steel dauphine hands and an unusual date at 3 o’clock with day at 6 o’clock complete the look. The small crown is recessed at 4 o’clock. The serial number on the caseback dates this one to January 1966. The automatic movement is clean and runs well per the seller. These Seikomatics are great watches, well built with robust movements, usually at a very reasonable price when compared to other brands. 

View auction here

Vintage Zodiac Triumph 

Next up is a nice little vintage Zodiac in the original box. This Triumph XXV model is one that I honestly haven’t come across before. The 32mm steel case is simple, with slim lugs and looks to be crisp and unpolished. The silver dial is nice, with a touch of patina, mostly around the edge. The slim hour markers are carved into the dial rather than sticking up, which gives it a different look. The sword hands are in good shape, with a little aging to the slim lume filled slots. It looks to be a front-loading case, and as such there are no movement pictures, however it runs per the seller. The watch comes on a period correct steel bracelet which looks good, but is definitely not original. This gem comes in the original box, with the original hang tags, although I don’t see any warranty booklet. Still, overall a great looking and seldom seen watch!

View auction here

Vintage Hamilton LED 

Can’t have too much of a good thing right? Here’s another nice vintage LED watch, this time a Hamilton in 10k gold plate. It’s another cool space-age design with an integrated matching bracelet that is signed on the buckle with the Hamilton “H” logo. The case and bracelet look to be in great condition, and the LED crystal shows the printing quite clearly. The watch works with no missing LED segments. Another fun piece that is sure to garner comments whenever worn!

View auction here

Vintage Caravelle Devil Diver 

This vintage Caravelle “Devil Diver” is similar to the very popular Sea Hunter, but this is a later model with a more 1970s cushion style case. The case will likely be 36-38mm, although the size is not stated by the seller. It looks unpolished, with light wear but still has the original brushed finish showing. The matte black dial is clean, with the classic “Explorer” style lume markers with Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9. Nice steel stick hands with lume, and a white lollipop tipped second hand. The thin aluminum elapsed time diver’s bezel insert is clean. The large crown is original and signed with the Caravelle “C” logo as it should. No movement picture but it runs well per the seller.

View auction here

Vintage Benrus Citation 

Ending this week with a beauty, a vintage Benrus Citation dress watch, complete with box and papers. The 33mm yellow gold plate case is superb, crisp and unpolished. The wide bezel has an alternating smooth and grooved finish that really pops. The two-tone gold dial has a bow-tie quadrant look, with nice applied gold markers and gold dauphine hands. There is a classy sub-seconds dial above the 6. The thin crown is original and signed with the Benrus logo. The watch comes on a period correct gold stretch bracelet that could possibly be original. This beauty comes in the original box, with the warranty booklet as well. Really sharp looking piece with the full kit!

View auction here

Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm.

The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement.

This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its own reference 55113, exclusive to Fears. Function and form carry equal weight, with finishing that upholds watchmaking traditions. The base movement is hand decorated with frosted bridges and plates, including hand anglage applied to the bridge’s edges with a dark rhodium finish. In addition, the caliber is wound automatically by a custom solid 18-karat gold rotor featuring the Fears ‘Bristol Flower’ motif. Further attention to detail in the design also contributes to the slim profile with the corrector pushers neatly integrated into the brushed case band for setting (and re-setting) the calendar that have been specially engineered to sit within the center of the case.As a cherry on top, the model also incorporates Fears’ first-ever moonphase indication at 6 o’clock. The romantic complication features a clean, black lacquer disc, inset with two silver moons hand finished with charbonage (representative of the moon’s surface). The model is complete with a hand made and sewn walnut brown strap in ostrich with a Fears Blue Alcantara lining. Contrasting nicely with the model’s silver mink dial, the strap brings out the warmth of the black gold coated hands and indices. The watch is presented in a new bespoke box, also in Fears Blue, with a representation of the Union Jack flag picked out in subtle marquetry on the box’s lid. Each watch is also supplied with a SwissKubik watch winder, once again in Fears Blue.

The new Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is a non-limited edition joining the brand’s permanent catalog along with the Fears Garrick in a new Eminence Collection of luxury Fears timepieces featuring hand-finished movements and haute horology construction and detailing. If you’re in the market for something particularly special, bespoke versions of the model can be made by consultation of the Fears Custom Division exclusively in platinum. The QP is priced at $28,500 and makes its grand entrance today with shipping expected to begin in mid-September. For more information, head over directly to Fears.