If you were around the micro/indie watch world in 2021, you almost certainly remember the release of the first Ming collaboration with Massena LAB. It was a limited edition that sold out incredibly fast (as most Ming releases did in those early days) and was notable for a few things beyond what I think is still an objectively cool design. First, this release came at the height of pandemic drop culture, and the quick sell through angered many Instagram commenters and there was a memorable backlash toward both brands (though I recall Ming taking the brunt of it). You could even argue that this release marked a sort of inflection point, and we began to see brands (including Ming) take steps with future releases to be more fair minded about how pieces are allocated. Second, when these watches eventually did make it to owners, there were a handful of notable and widely reported QC/mechanical issues (which of course were resolved by the brands, but still, not the cherry-on-top anyone was hoping for). Was the launch a catastrophe? Not really. Examples of these watches still routinely sell for well over retail on the secondary market. They’re one of a handful of releases from this era that really mark a specific moment in time. 

Ming and Massena are back with a second collaboration, at a time when both brands find themselves in a very different sort of situation. Which is just to say, there’s been a lot of growth in these last several years. When was the last time, for instance, you heard widespread griping about availability of a Ming release? They seem to have solved for the problem their insane early demand had by adjusting production numbers, their release schedule, and making certain models permanent and always available. Massena LAB has evolved as well, with more collaborations under their belt, and they formalized their relationship with Ming and other members of the Alternative Horological Alliance by entering into that group last year. 

The new watch, the Ming x Massena LAB 57.09 Secret Honey, is very much packaged as a sequel to the original 17.09 releases from 2021. Ming even playfully references the various mishaps with those releases in their press and marketing materials. The idea here seems to be to keep elements of the popular “honeycomb” motif but to challenge themselves with a far more complex design that reflects the growth of both brands. 

The centerpiece here is the dark brown lacquered dial which sits underneath a trio of sapphire discs, one rotating every 24 hours, another every 12 hours, and a third every 60 minutes. Each disc has a distinct color and pattern of small apertures, and when they rotate around one another a “honey” color and honeycomb pattern are gradually revealed, and then disappear and form again. The overlapping apertures are referred to by Ming as “dynamic guilloche,” which is a fun idea particularly if your interest in guilloche is in the way it seems to “move” on its own as it plays with the light. This is a literalization of a concept many of us have lived with in a subconscious way for years. 

The case is in Ming’s fifth-generation design language, which features their new triple-stepped lug design. It measures 40mm in diameter and is 10.17mm tall. The lug to lug measurement is 47.8mm. You’ll notice that this version of the case differs from previous executions when you take a close look at the lugs, which have been finished in three different colors. The outermost step on each lug is a natural uncoated titanium, the middle has a yellow gold hue, and the innermost lug has a rose gold tone. The idea with the lugs was to mirror the color palate of the dial and reflect the shifting tones of both. 

The new 57.09 Secret Honey is powered by the “Sellita for Ming” 330.M2 caliber, which is an automatic movement with 50 hours of power reserve on a full wind. As is the norm for Ming’s Sellita calibers, they’ve commissioned a bunch of custom aesthetic treatments, including skeletonized bridges and anthracite coatings. 

The Secret Honey is a limited run of 125 pieces, with a retail price of CHF 7.250. Orders open tomorrow, and the watch will be available to view over the weekend at WatchTime New York. Ming x Massena LAB

One side effect of working in the watch industry is becoming the default person to ask when there’s a watch-adjacent question. While I have a go-to answer for most questions, the occasional “What smartwatch should I buy?” was always a bit of a curveball. Until last month, I would have recommended that you stay within your phone’s ecosystem to take advantage of any integrations and connectivity that were built in, with only one exception. When it comes to fitness tracking, especially for runners, I’ve always heard that Garmin was the brand to go with. Now, I’ve always considered the smartwatch to be an extension of your phone, so mechanical watches were the perfect way to become a little less connected, but this newest release has me thinking that maybe I should add a smartwatch back into the collection.

While I don’t think I’ve ever explicitly mentioned my age in an article or on the podcast, smartwatches really started to take off when I was in high school. Around that time, I remember buying a rather affordable Xiaomi-branded smartwatch for myself. Despite being a fraction of the cost, it packed many of the same features as the current-generation smartwatches: phone notifications, step counting, and it even tracked just how little sleep I was getting each night, making it an easy purchase for an unemployed high school student.I’ d go on to wear this watch throughout high school and college, before ultimately becoming interested in mechanical watches and retiring it. Since then, I’ve occasionally checked in on the smartwatch segment, but never really considered adding one back into my life, at least not until I had the opportunity to check out the newest generation MARQ from Garmin.

The MARQ series is intended to be Garmin’s “top of the line” model, blending traditional luxury timepieces with modern smartwatches. Although the MARQ is a smartwatch, some of its core specifications are what we look for in traditional watches, like a grade 5 titanium case, ceramic bezel insert, brushed finishing, and a sapphire crystal.  Having handled watches across the board in price and finishing, I’d say that these are probably the nicest finished smartwatches I’ve ever seen in person, and they’re on par with watches of similar price points. Color throughout the ceramic bezel inserts was consistent and well saturated, with filled numerals and indices that were extremely legible. It’s worth noting that all models, including the Diver, feature a fixed, non-rotating bezel. 

Despite so many similarities with mechanical watches, the movement inside has been swapped for a computer that’s more powerful than the one that put a man on the moon. Looking at the tech side of the technical details, the MARQ features a 1.4” borderless AMOLED touchscreen, an integrated heart rate sensor, magnetic charging, and an internal battery that can last up to 18 days when in “expedition mode”. That said, the hardware here is only half the story, as the new generation of MARQ incorporates Garmin’s inReach technology, comes preloaded with global maps, and even has a built-in flashlight, meaning users could quite literally unbox their new watch and immediately hit the trail. 

Late last month I was fortunate enough to join some of the Garmin team in Mallorca, along with various members of global media from all walks of life. At this event, we were able to spend some time with the new MARQ models, put them through a bit of field testing, and learn more about the brand as a whole and where this new offering slots into their product catalog.  From the start, I was pretty impressed with the MARQ, as it didn’t feel like the smartwatches I remember from years ago, but there are two elephants in the room that I have to address, with the first being that the Garmin MARQ is a large watch. Coming in at 47mm in diameter and 15mm thick, it’s one of, if not the largest, watches I’ve ever put on my 6.5” wrist. In its defense, I will say that the relatively flat caseback and curvature of the lugs make the watch wear surprisingly well. 

Across the new models, there are several unique strap options, with each model being paired with specific straps that match the aesthetic and purpose of the watch: The Diver and Athlete versions get a fitted silicone strap, the Adventurer and Aviation receive a leather or leather/silicone hybrid, while the Golfer and Commander both receive a woven jacquard nylon strap. Across all of the models, my personal favorite was the cut-to-size silicone strap on the diver, which features 15mm adjustment, enough to accommodate a bit of wrist swell or a wetsuit for those aquatic adventurers. 

Even though we were able to preview models several weeks before the release, the software on the watch felt like it ran smoothly, and I quickly started picking up which buttons controlled which feature and how to navigate through the various menus when I needed something, like the built-in flashlight. Initially, I thought the concept of having a flashlight on a watch was nothing more than a gimmick, despite hearing people say it’s one of their favorite features on a Garmin watch. Throughout this event, I would occasionally spot people using the built-in flashlight to spot dropped items and read a menu in the dimly lit room. When you stop to think about it, it just makes sense. Unless you just happen to EDC a headlamp, any time you need additional light you wind up holding the flashlight in your hand, so if it’s just attached to your wrist, it’s one less thing to grab in the morning, and it certainly won’t slip out of your hand at the worst possible moment.  

As someone who’s avoided owning smartwatches throughout the years, I’m genuinely impressed with the MARQ collection. Smartwatches, by design, are meant to be an extension of the mobile device they pair with: passing along notifications, tracking health data, and in worst-case scenarios, making a phone call after an accident. However, despite having many of the same features as its competitors, the MARQ feels less like a smartwatch and more like a smart tool watch. Sure, it will pass along your notifications, make phone calls, and track your steps, but it’s the additional features that make it feel so different to me. The fact that the MARQ comes with global maps preloaded means that someone could quite literally buy the watch, open it at the trailhead, and have the specific data they need to go hiking, biking, or running in a part of the world they were wholly unfamiliar with. 

But there’s one last elephant to address: the price.

The new models in the new MARQ collection start at $2,500 and go up to $3,100.  Comparatively speaking, you could spend around the same amount of money and add some very fun watches to the collection, like a pre-owned Black Bay or Speedy, or even a very well-loved Breitling Emergency, which has a similar adventure driven vibe. While these models certainly aren’t cheap, I think these could be worth the money if you utilize the watch to its potential. Having chatted with people at the Garmin event, friends who own them, and scrolling through social media, there’s one common denominator across the actual Garmin users I’ve observed: they live an active life. In my time with the MARQ, it feels like a watch designed for those who move, whether you’re a hiker, biker, runner, or just trying to get in better shape.

As we’re right at the release of the new MARQ generation, they’ve definitely caught my attention. Being in the back half of my twenties, I’m starting to feel like I should probably put a bit more time and effort into taking care of myself, being more active, and eating better. While I know an expensive smartwatch isn’t the solution to getting in better shape, I am curious to see just how much of an impact one has, and to spend more time with it in general. For now, consider me smartwatch-curious for the first time in over 10 years, and expect a more in-depth review once I’ve had more time with the Garmin MARQ. Until then, more information about the new models is available through Garmin’s website.

RGM has introduced a new perpetual calendar, their first since the Model 103-R Minute Repeater Perpetual which was introduced in the 1990s. The new watch, dubbed the 501-PC, has classic RGM aesthetics and incorporates a new module from Dubois-Depraz for the calendar complication (not unlike another perpetual calendar to debut recently). While the watch is not inexpensive by any means, the use of a module fixed to a mass produced movement does keep costs down somewhat compared to a fully in-house design, and serves as another example of the many small ways traditional higher end complications are being democratized across the larger watch marketplace.

The 501-PC has a fairly traditional perpetual calendar layout, with a 12:00 subdial indicating the months and leap year, a 3:00 subdial showing the date, a moonphase at 6:00, and the day of the week in a subdial at 9:00. The dial layout and design takes inspiration from 19th century pocket watches, a frequent source of inspiration for RGM over the years, and is rendered in white enamel. Black painted Roman numerals and blued hands add additional depth and historic coherence to the design. It’s all very traditional and the antithesis of flashy. Again, exactly what you’d expect from RGM. 

The case is stainless steel and measures 39mm in diameter and is 11.5mm thick. Like the Fears linked above, which this watch is sure to draw comparisons to thanks to the movement, that’s an incredibly wearable and approachable size. The case is vertically brushed on the side with alternating polished elements and lugs that appear to be a bit on the long side (no lug to lug measurement has been provided). 

According to RGM, the movement decision came down to a desire to pick a caliber that would be reliable and easy to service. The ETA 2892 base is a solid choice in that regard, but RGM knew that they’d have to make adjustments to the aesthetic of the caliber for their customers who demand something a little more visually interesting. To that end, they replaced the automatic bridges and winding rotor for bridges with a smaller rotor-bearing diameter, and added a solid gold rotor. The changes effectively open up the movement, making it more visually impressive. The module, which appears to be nearly identical in functionality to the one used in the Fears QP from earlier this year, is of course quite thin, which allows for the slender overall case height. 

The 501-PC has a retail price of $39,900. Again, not inexpensive by any means, and I’m sure many will have similar pricing objections to this release as we saw when the Fears QP was announced. RGM, for their part, has been selling watches well into the five figures for many years now, so the sticker shock for their repeat customers is likely not as severe. 

More information can be found at the RGM website here.

By all accounts, the city of New York is still abuzz from its first NBA Championship in five decades. I’m not a local, but friends and basketball media alike recount stories of New Yorkers in Knicks gear fist-bumping on sidewalks as late as August, and “Knicks in five” has become a kind of shorthand between fans in this summer of celebration. 

The street parties and champagne may have dried up, but you can bet that “Ring Night” at MSG will be a hot ticket come October, when the 2026-27 NBA season kicks off, and the Knicks’ title defense starts. 

Truly, these are salad days for Knicks fans. A world removed (save for their mentions in a moving speech by the mayor) from the last, almost-great team that captured the city’s collective heart. That 1999 squad – forever known for Houston’s 0.8-second shot, LJ’s 4-point play, and Ewing’s Achilles tear – was about as beloved as a runner-up can be. And in a fascinating twist, it was memorialized by a commemorative Movado, given to players and team personnel, that time almost forgot. 

The ’90s Knicks Were Out in Five 

Throughout the 1990s, the New York Knicks were about as good, and consistently good, as a non-championship team can be. Led by one of the sport’s all-time greats in Patrick Ewing, the decade saw the Knicks lose to the eventual NBA champion five times, including coming up short in two finals runs against the ’94 Houston Rockets and the ’99 San Antonio Spurs. 

The incredible, almost-there run was largely presided over by Knicks executive Dave Checketts. Hired on as the team president in 1991 and elevated to run the totality of the Madison Square Garden organization in 1994, Checketts was a guiding force behind the team for a decade.

In 1994, after a brutally contested NBA Finals against the Houston Rockets came up short, Checketts suggested that the team be honored for its incredible effort. But then coach Pat Riley  – he of the five-time champion of the Los Angeles Lakers – wasn’t on board. 

Riley wasn’t having it, Checketts told me in a recent interview, “No celebration, no party, no rings, no hats. Unless you won the title, your season was a failure.” 

Blood in The Garden 

The Riley decree seemed tough but fair. While Super Bowl and World Series runners-up get rings that aren’t often talked about, second-place finishers in the NBA do not. And with the ’94 experience as prologue, Checketts was committed to doing something for the ’99 Finals team that was never supposed to be competing for a chip in the first place. 

In his excellent history of the 1990s Knicks, Blood in the Garden, best-selling author Chris Herring wrote that with the ’94 team’s efforts in his mind, Checketts “…had already made up his mind to commemorate the 1999 Finals run somehow.” 

The “somehow” turned out to be a watch. Still hesitant to craft a ring, Checketts arrived upon the idea of giving out customized watches to memorialize another tantalizingly close call with the top prize. 

“It was a devastating loss,” said Checketts, “and I was convinced we were the better team.” With that, the knowledge that his superstar in Ewing was in his mid-30s and coming off a major injury, and a vague notion that he, “didn’t think I’d be there much longer,” the executive set a plan in motion to commission some bespoke Movado timepieces for everyone involved in the season’s success. 

A Watch, But Which One?

The mention of the watches is a small detail at the end of Blood in the Garden. For most readers of the book, ostensibly huge Knicks or NBA heads like me, it would have been Checketts’ fondness for the team, not the watch itself, that registered. But for readers who qualify as watch nerds (also me), questions about the timepiece itself immediately surfaced.

What kind of Movado, a Museum Watch? Did it have a custom dial or was it engraved on the back? How many of them were there, and what do they go for on the secondary market? 

Weirdly, in the summer of 2025 when I first read the book, a quick search of all the usual online watch markets revealed nothing. Plenty of Movado models from the late 1990s were changing hands on Chrono24, eBay, Reddit, and the rest, but none revealed themselves as Knicks-related.

I dug a little deeper, using Herring’s exact description of the watches in the book: “a silver-band, blue-faced Movado watch that was engraved, ‘New York Knicks: 1999 NBA Eastern Conference Champions’” and found… nothing.

Eventually I gave up on the hunt, and a full year passed. The 2026 iteration of the Knicks won a title, and I remembered the watches a few days later. Surely now some superfan or former player would have surfaced with this rare artifact on a watch marketplace or sports auction site. Nothing doing. 

The only path left was to get ahold of Checketts himself and ask about the story of the watch. 

Let’s Talk To Dave

Checketts left the Knicks and MSG in 2001, and transitioned to an impressive second act in sports consulting, investment management, and more. For a busy man, and the only inductee of the Utah Hall of Fame I’ve ever interviewed, he was remarkably easy to pin down for a quick Zoom and some watch talk.

The youthful-looking exec – I quickly remembered he was only 35 when hired by the Knicks – breezed through the story from the book, lingering on the sting of the ’99 loss with palpable pain. “It was a devastating loss.” Then he brought out his watch from somewhere off-camera.

It is not, as you can see, the classic Movado Museum Watch. Based on Herring’s description, I was assuming a round case, spare dial in Knicks blue, with the signature Museum Dot at the 12 o’clock position and all of the text inscribed somewhere on the caseback. The Museum Watch, after all, was very popular in the late 90s and early 00s, with an especially strong foothold in and around New York, where the marketing had been hot and heavy.

Instead, I saw what I’d later discover to be Movado’s Eliro model, with a rectangular, tank-style steel case and integrated bracelet just barely narrower than the case sides. On the dial, which to my eye and in all descriptions is black, not blue, “1999 /  NBA / Eastern Conference / Champions” is stacked in printed text above and below the faceted dauphine hands. The Movado logo is in the expected spot at the top of the dial, just under the Museum dot. And, flanking the dial on the upper surfaces of the blocky case sides, “New York” and “Knick” appear to be engraved. Checketts’ example is so clearly well worn that the engravings are only just visible in a photo he shared after our call. 

A Watch, When A Ring Won’t Do

The Eliro is an interesting watch, especially if you think about it spending any time at all on the oak-like wrists of men like Ewing, Larry Johnson, or Marcus Camby. A slim, rectangular, quartz-powered steel watch doesn’t jibe with the image of NBA player fashion that we have today, nor meet up with the hip-hop ethos of the late 90s. But it’s easy to see how the demure styling and modest levels of luxury might have felt right for this as a commemorative piece. 

Checketts isn’t sure exactly who received the watches, but he remembers instructing his staff to be as inclusive as possible. “It wasn’t just players and coaches,” he recalled. “People like the scoring crew… I think if you worked for the Knicks in any capacity.” So while it’s difficult to say how many were produced, it’s clear that the choice of model and execution of the build was made in part to support an organization-wide gift. 

And yet, all the evidence points to people holding on to these artifacts, rather than cashing in. It’s remarkable. 

Remember, the ’99 Knicks won just 27 games in that strike-shortened season. They were an eight seed, and should’ve been cannon fodder in the early playoff rounds, not a team that made it so close to the top. It’s a story worth remembering and a watch, it seems, that became a trophy worth holding on to. 

Timing Is Everything

A confluence of events seems to be favoring the fortunes of this Knicks watch, however.

Over the last few years I’ve read a steady stream of articles about the collectability of early (pre-quartz) Movado watches, with in-house movements, attention to detail, and simmering auction prices. The brand even appears to be on the cusp of a mini renaissance, with new products hewing more closely to that golden age.

Simultaneously, we’re all just obsessed with the culture of the nineties and the early aughts – I’ve seen more cool 25-year-olds wearing neo-vintage pieces than Apple watches in recent months. (I like the quirky quartz pieces better than I do the resurgence of jorts.)

And, of course, the Knicks are champions again. Knicks in Five Summer is threatening to become Knicks in Five Fall, and god only knows what’ll happen if Jalen Brunson leads the city on another deep playoff run. Get your tickets now, I’d say. 

Keep an eye on sideline wrists, too. You might even catch Checketts somewhere close to the action, as he was a few times in recent playoff runs. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of a well-worn Movado on his arm. 

Toledano & Chan has introduced their latest release, the B/1 Dazzle. Eagle eyed GPHG watchers might have gotten a small tease of this one when nominations were released a few months back (it’s fairly routine for brands to submit embargoed watches, and they’re often revealed before the official launch as part of the GPHG voting process), but now the cat is fully out of the bag. The Dazzle is actually a pair of watches, both using Toledano & Chan’s now familiar case architecture inspired by the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, and Brutalist forms and ideas more generally. Now with several distinct releases under their belt, it’s becoming more and more interesting to see how Toledano & Chan iterate on this platform. The Dazzle might be my personal favorite of the executions of this case design to date. 

The idea for the Dazzle comes from camouflage used on battleships during the first World War. The so-called “dazzle” camouflage design was not meant to conceal, but to use complex geometry to confuse the enemy by disrupting proportion. The alternating black and white bars painted onto a ship that’s in constant motion would have been difficult for an adversary to pin down. The dazzle design language has been used in art and design for many years since, including on watches, but Toledano & Chan’s version plays with the idea in a few interesting ways that I haven’t seen before. 

Like the most recent B/1 releases, this one is in titanium, and the entire case and integrated bracelet are covered with the dazzle lines and planes. What’s notable here though is that the finishing of each plane is uniform across the case, bracelet, and dial, which reinforces the idea of the B/1 as a sculptural object, something that I think has always been hinted at but made particularly clear here. The finishing is incredibly cool in person, and is achieved through a process whereby the pattern is CNC engraved, frosted with diamond dust, and brushed to a beautiful matte finish. 

In addition to the standard B/1 Dazzle, Toledano & Chan is also releasing what they are playfully referring to as the B/1 Double Dazzle, which features a dial with 350 natural diamonds. I was really drawn to this one when we had samples of both watches in the office. The diamonds are impressive but also, somehow, a little under the radar, and I also enjoy the visual pun of using the concept of “dazzle” in multiple ways with this variant. And for anyone who follows Toledano & Chan cofounder Phil Toledano on Instagram, the use of diamonds here will immediately jump out as part of his “geezer watch” aesthetic. The design here feels very much informed by his own collecting taste, which I suppose will be hit and miss with each individual enthusiast depending on how much their own taste lines up with Phi’s, but I’m guessing if you’re remotely interested in one of these watches, there’s at least some overlap. 

The specs for these watches line up with previous B/1 releases, meaning the titanium case is a little smaller than the first run of steel watches, coming in at 32mm by 30.6mm, and 12.3mm thick inclusive of the sloping crystal. It runs on a Swiss automatic movement. The standard version is a limited run of 188 pieces with a retail price of $7,700, while the Double Dazzle is priced at $9,700 and limited to 12 pieces. Both of the new Dazzle pieces will be available directly from Toledano & Chan as well as their authorized retailers beginning October 24. Toledano & Chan

Beams x REI Co-op Expedition Parka

My husband and I were debating what to call my personal style over the weekend and, unfortunately, neither of us had anything positive to say. The best we could come up with was “Chandler from Friends with a maxed-out credit card.”

Part of the reason is that I’m not adventurous. Even my “nice” clothes look like something from the Gap that my mom bought me before my sophomore year. I have, in short, no courage to branch out of the ’90s, I guess you could say.

But maybe that’s not a total loss. I just need to take my sartorial time machine back to 1986. That’s when REI first released its Expedition Parka, and BEAMS has brought the style back for a new collaboration, limited to 500 pieces. The new version keeps the oversized shape and bright color blocking of the original, while updating the construction with a two-layer Windstopper by GORE-TEX Labs shell and 650-fill down. The BEAMS x REI Co-op Expedition Parka is available now for $599.

 

KOUE’s Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition

Who’s getting excited about Windup next week? And who’s even more excited now knowing that KUOE Kyoto is bringing a 50-piece limited edition to New York?

The Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition pairs the waffle dial from the 90-006 with the Dauphine-style hands from the discontinued 90-005, along with a cream dial, silver case and brown leather strap made in Italy. The case comes in at 39mm, while inside is the Miyota 9039 automatic movement with approximately 42 hours of power reserve.

The watch will be available exclusively at Windup New York from October 16 through 18. I won’t be able to attend this year, but if anyone wants to wait in line and grab one for me, my birthday was last week…

EVERGOODS CIVIC Flat Pouch

Look, I’m not going to sit here and tell you that I don’t regularly scour Japanese eBay for a designer bag to store all my work stuff, but I’m also starting to think that a proper EDC-forward option is actually what I need without getting distracted by the big brand names. Enter the CIVIC Flat Pouch from EVERGOODS.

Made from 210D nylon, the pouch has two zippered compartments separated by a floating divider and a flat profile that keeps it from taking up much room until I fill it with two pairs of headphones, ten fountain pens, a pack of regular gum, a pack of that gum that promises to define my jawline, and some loose euros that make me feel important and fancy. It measures 8 inches long, weighs just 1.55 ounces and comes in black, OD green and hot orange.

The CIVIC Flat Pouch is available now for $25 (which, for anyone wondering, is a tenth of a Prada pouch).

 

Pas Normal Studios x PORTER Cycling Bags

If you’re a cyclist, more power to you. Me on the other hand? Well, I’ll put it this way: one of my bucket-list items is to use a Citi Bike in NYC without crying. But until then, I’ll watch my own e-bike collect dust in the garage every time I go out there to grab another tub of Tillamook from the deep freezer.

But if I did have the cojones to ride my bike beyond the backcountry roads near my house, I’d absolutely want to deck it out with a few stylish accessories like the new collaboration from Pas Normal Studios and PORTER.

The two brands have come together on a six-piece collection that brings PORTER’s Japanese bagmaking to Pas Normal Studios’ cycling gear. Three of the bags attach directly to the bike, with a frame bag, handlebar bag and saddle bag covering different storage points. There’s also a backpack and tote for carrying more off the bike, plus a compact coin case. Each piece comes with its own co-branded drawstring pouch.

The Pas Normal Studios x PORTER collection is available now through the Yoshida & Co. online store and PORTER locations across Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, South Korea and Thailand.

 

Topo Designs x Toyota Trailhunter Collection

Please indulge me for a moment while I tell you that I was once a valet at a luxury hotel when I was 19. The first thing you must know is that I am very dumb, and the second thing you must know is that I don’t like driving cars nearly as much as I like riding bikes. In any case, a guest once asked me to get his car, “the white Toyota.” Well, this was 2010, and I had to run over to the golf course to get enough service to Google what Toyota’s logo looked like on my BlackBerry Curve.

I’ve luckily learned a thing or two about cars since then, mostly how to use CarPlay and turn on the heated seats in my husband’s car. But in those past 16 years, I have learned to identify a Toyota. In fact, I could spot it right away on the new Topo Designs x Toyota Trailhunter Collection.

The 14-piece collection includes some of Topo’s better-known bags, with the Rover Trail Pack and Mountain Gear Bag joined by a 10L Pack Bag, Utility Roll, Medium Accessory Bag and Taco Bag. There’s also a Utility Jacket with matching Utility Pants, long- and short-sleeve graphic tees, a Corduroy Trucker Hat, Crux Key Clip and two bandanas in red and yellow. Toyota and Trailhunter logos and graphics appear throughout the collection alongside Topo Designs’ unmistakable branding.

The collection is available now via Topo Designs’ website.

 

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion.

Vintage U.S.Steel Lord Elgin Presentation Watch 

Here’s a cool piece to start us off this week, a vintage Lord Elgin U.S. Steel presentation watch. As one might expect, the case is steel, and looks to be unpolished with crisp edges and nice lugs. The caseback is engraved as a presentation to Gilbert Yager for 41 years of service to USS, dated February 1959. 41 years, that’s impressive! I hope Gibert got a little more than a watch though for that long! Anyways, the silver dial is clean, with applied steel hour markers and a nice subseconds dial at 6. There is a USS logo printed on the dial. No movement pictures but the watch runs per the seller. Fun piece with a cool history!

View auction here

Vintage Tissot Seastar Chronograph 

Next up is a sharp looking vintage Tissot Seastar chronograph. The 35mm steel case is unpolished with the original vertical brushed finish and sharp edges. Behind the scratched up acrylic crystal is a nice looking black dial with three white subdials. The dial looks to be in great shape, with applied steel baton markers and steel paddle hands. The large crown is signed with the Tissot “T” logo as it should be. The watch is powered by what looks to be a Lemania 17j manual wind movement that is clean and running well per the seller. The watch comes on a nice looking steel stretch band, but would look fantastic on a black croc strap or a vintage Tropic Rally strap if you ask me.

View auction here

Vintage Bulova Accutron 

Here is a vintage Bulvoa Accutron that is a great looking piece. Most of the Accutrons didn’t carry the Bulova name on the dial, but later models like this one did. The oval-ish steel case is sharp and unpolished, with a nice personal engraving on the caseback. It’s a presentation award for 38 years at Deere and Company, and the “N5” on the back dates this watch to 1975. The silver dial is clean, with Arabic numerals at 12, 6 and 9, a date window at 3 and baton markers with black inlay for the rest. There is a nice Accutron logo above the 6 as well. The crown at 4 o’clock is signed with the Accutron logo as it should. No pictures of the awesome caliber 218 tuning fork movement but the watch runs well per the seller. No strap, but that just gives you the chance to put it on whatever floats your boat!

View auction here

Vintage Omega Geneve 

Next up is a nice vintage Omega Geneve dress watch. The 35mm yellow gold filled square case is sharp and unpolished. The gold dial has black hour markers and is time only with no date window. The black hour and minute hands really stand out against the gold dial. The watch is powered by an Omega caliber 601 manual wind movement that is clean as a whistle and running well per the seller. The small winding crown is signed with the Omega logo as it should be. The watch comes with an Omega guarantee booklet, but the serial number written on the paperwork doesn’t match the serial number on the movement. It’s cool to have, but I don’t think it’s original to the watch. Still, a great and unusual Omega dress watch in killer shape. 

View auction here

Casio Film Watch 

And now for something completely different. I don’t know anything about this vintage Casio Dual Time Film Watch, but it’s wild and I like it! I have no idea why it’s called a Film Watch, except maybe because it’s so thin? I tried Google and couldn’t really find anything out about it and I’ve never seen this model before. However it’s cool looking, with a thin, rectangular case. It is a dual time watch, with an analog watch at the top and a digital watch on the bottom. Very sleek and futuro-looking. The watch is in great shape, and works well per the seller. It even comes on its original jelly-like plastic band with sparklies in it. If you’re looking for something unusual that no one else will be wearing, this could be for you!

View auction here

TAG Heuer Professional 

Finishing up this week with a great vintage TAG Heuer diver. This gem is from the 1980s and definitely has that look to it. The classically styled 40mm steel case has a satin finish and looks unpolished. It has a broad elapsed time diver’s bezel with a black aluminum insert that is really clean. The black dial looks great, with nicely aged Tritium lume for the hour markers and also in the Mercedes tipped hour and minute hands, with a date window at 3. The crown at 3 rests between two classic crown guards, and is signed with the TAG Heuer logo. It is powered by a quartz movement, although there are no pictures. Seller states the watch has been serviced and is running well. Nice classic diver that would make a great grab and go every day watch.

View auction here

On Monday evening in Los Angeles, Omega celebrated Global James Bond Day with a launch party for the latest collection of Seamaster Diver 300Ms to join the Omega x James Bond Universe–including their first Spectre-themed watches ever. With CEO Raynald Aeschlimann on-hand and surrounded by a collection of iconic props from the Bond films (including Agent Primo’s bionic eyeball from No Time To Die), Omega displayed some of these new Bond references publicly for the first time.

At the core of the new collection are a pair of non-limited steel models, a James Bond Edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004) and a Spectre Edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023). Omega will also offer a duo of limited edition models rendered in platinum-gold: the Bond-themed ref. 210.83.42.20.03.001 and the Spectre-themed ref. 210.83.42.20.01.001. The limited edition watches will be sold exclusively in sets that include one of the limited edition Bond or Spectre watches and a numbered example (1-77) of the corresponding non-limited steel model. The numbered editions of the steel models get their own reference numbers, but don’t differ from the non-limited watches in any meaningful way. So, while the collection technically boasts six new references, it’s really only four new watches. Got it? 

All of the watches in the new series share the familiar 42mm case diameter with the current production model Seamaster 300M, but the new models are a hair thicker at 14.23 mm. While fans that have been holding out hope for a downsized take on the beloved diver may feel that they’ve died another day with this release, the truth is the new Seamasters still wear quite comfortably on their steel mesh straps and the taller case doesn’t feel like a dramatic change to the standard 300M recipe in-the-metal. Omega has also opted to stick with its tried-and-true Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement to power all of the watches in the collection. So while there’s nothing new under-the-hood here, that’s not necessarily a bad thing when it comes to this powerplant.

As for the watches’ visual charms, the Bond Edition retains the Seamaster 300M’s engraved wave motif dial, but twists the look with a deep navy blue finish. The dark dial found on the Bond model is offset by a brighter titanium bezel insert, which gives it a unique look among the Diver  300Ms in Omega’s current line up. The watch also features the Bond family crest at the 12 o’clock hour marker and it’s a party-in-the-back, where you’ll find a tremendous rotor that’s been engraved with the 007 logo and gun barrel imagery. 

The Spectre Edition has a decidedly utilitarian look that contrasts the Bond model. While the Spectre watch is intended to be spiritually aligned with the shadowy cabal of Bond baddies, it’s the hero of the two watches–at least for our money. The Spectre reference gets a matte black dial and a tough looking textured black ceramic bezel insert. Its display caseback also features a sizable rotor, this time emblazoned with the modern iteration of Spectre’s psuedo-cephalopod logo. This watch infuses the Diver 300M form with an understated style that’s perhaps more rugged than sinister.

The limited edition platinum-gold watches are obviously more upscale pieces. These watches feature handmade leather straps in place of the Milanese mesh, and what we believe are guilloche dials in place of the laser-engraved aluminum found on the non-LEs. The limited edition sets retail at around $90k, making them a novelty reserved for either the most well-heeled Bond nerds or Omega completists–especially those that want both a Bond and Spectre set. Despite the pricepoint, Omega claims that many of the limited sets are already spoken for. 

Omega’s relationship with the hallowed Bond IP is as intrinsically tied to their brand identity as the Speedmaster’s history with NASA is at this point. It’s a relationship that extends back over 30 years now and one that ushered a generation of enthusiasts into the watch space, with many of us first romanticizing wristwatches under the influence of Pierce Brosnan and/or Daniel Craig’s portrayals of the MI6 man. The Seamaster Divers worn by those respective Bonds were the first grail watches of many budding collectors–including several industry colleagues that proudly wore their personal 300Ms to Monday’s launch event. Each one of those watches had a sentimental story attached to it, and that’s something that’s not lost on Omega’s leadership–least of all CEO and President Raynald Aeschlimann. 

Aeschlimann was all smiles while discussing the brand’s relationship with Bond and was particularly thrilled about their first (deliberate) foray into watches for villains. 

On the brand’s 32 years with Bond, Aeschlimann told Worn & Wound “For me, the relationship with Bond is what matters. It’s not just another watch with a name on it, it’s about the depth of the relationship Omega has with Bond. It’s been over 30 years and I’ve done all of the movies and been in all of the discussions, so for me personally, this celebration and this collection is so much more than a product placement. Today the relationship between Omega and James Bond is even more important than ever, and it’s about shared values. When we started working with Bond, people would ask why we would provide our watches when we knew the film production was going to change everything and modify them. Today people understand it and that’s why we’re part of the Bond DNA.” 

When asked why the brand has finally ventured into watches for villains, the CEO explained “We’re constantly celebrating our relationship with Bond. Daniel Craig knows watches so well, so when I asked him to create a watch together for his next movie and we worked together on the No Time to Die watch, it was obvious that it would be a real James Bond watch. That watch is still in the top ten of our sales, and if we had done a limited edition, it would have sold out. 

“It was always in my mind to do something with Spectre because part of all of us is Spectre. They’re just the best enemy. You love to hate them as an enemy, and you need that for a good story. The other part of it is the actors that have played Spectre have been fantastic. We always talk about the actors that have played James Bond because when you play Bond, you’re Bond forever. But we should not forget about the actors that have played these villains, whether it was Gert Fröbe as Goldfinger or Javier Bardem as Silva. We wanted to celebrate them, too. It wasn’t just about creating a second watch, it’s celebrating what we consider the best enemy, and I love that story.” 

It was obvious from speaking with him that Aeschlimann’s passion for the Bond universe extends beyond sales figures and board room politics. He even demonstrated a bit of his own evasive spywork when we pressed him for answers on who the next actor to play Bond might be, but done with a coy smile. We know you know, Raynald. 

Ultimately none of these new Seamasters are reinventing the model or moving the needle much in adding something unique to the lineup. If there’s any valid criticism here, it’s that the standard production models that most people will be considering from the new lineup feature pretty safe aesthetic choices, and that we’d still love to see a smaller version of the Diver 300M released in the near future. That said, they’re genuinely good looking, fun iterations of a well-loved watch. And for those of us that enjoy the full spectrum of Bond lore and appreciate Omega’s relationship with the franchise, the addition of Spectre-themed watches and what the brand may continue to do with that concept is exciting. Perhaps these watches are just an appetizer for a grander release when the next film is announced? For now, that dossier remains sealed. Omega

Wren, the microbrand founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, has just unveiled the Vessel, a sharp left turn from the brand’s well received dive watches, and easily their most ambitious watch to date. 

Craig has been teasing the Vessel for at least the last year, and if you’ve seen him at the Wren booth at recent Windup events and other shows, or just around NYC watch events, it’s possible you’ve seen him wearing prototypes of the Vessel or discreetly showing it off alongside his dive watches. It’s been a long road, and the lengthy run up to the release reflects the complexity of the project compared to the Diver One. I remember the first time Craig showed me a render of what would become the Vessel, it was hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that this would be the next model from his still new brand. It seemed like a watch going in a completely different direction. 

The Vessel is an avant-garde integrated bracelet sports watch, built around a contemporary feeling tonneau case shape with a design by Max Resnick, who has worked with Traska, Anoma, and others. The case has an architectural look defined by sharp angles, and is crafted from 904L steel. It measures 39mm by 39mm and is 10.6mm thick. There’s a pretty dramatic taper from the widest part of the case (it’s middle section) and where the lugs meet the bracelet. While the integrated bracelet sports watch has been done to death at this point by just about any brand you can name, the Vessel manages to feel distinct, and can’t credibly be accused of serving as a carbon copy of any other design, even if there are hints of Moser, Richard Mille, and others in the broad strokes. 

There are two dial variants available at launch, one in meteorite, and another in a silver sunray finish. No indices are present on either dial (but there are lumed markers and a minute track on the rehaut), which is a design choice I personally like quite a bit, but I imagine may irk some who prefer an immediate ability to get a precise readout of the time. In my opinion, it reinforces the idea that the Vessel is a statement piece and design object first, and not a tool oriented sports watch like the Diver One. 

Perhaps the most impressive single feature of the Vessel, though, is the crystal, which is completely custom for this watch. It has multiple facets that allow it to follow the lines of the case exactly, which obviously presents a unique manufacturing challenge for such a complex case design. The crystal is designed in a way that allows the wearer to see through it from the area where the lugs meet the case on either end of the watch via a wide facet. It helps establish the dial, and the case itself, as a broad canvas and helps call attention to the intricacy of the design. 

The watch runs on a Sellita SW300-1, an automatic movement with 56 hours of power reserve. It has a custom rotor which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. 

The Vessel is available for pre-order now, with the sunray dial version priced at $2,900, and meteorite at $3,400. That represents a sizable jump in price from the Diver One – when it debuted two years ago it sold for just under $1,000. But this is a much more ambitious and complicated watch in just about every way, and likely does not target the same market as the vaguely vintage inspired Diver One. Delivery is expected in the first quarter of 2027. Wren