Gastronomically speaking, there wasn't much to recommend this part of Park Slope less than a decade ago. Pioneers like Cucina, Al di Là, and the erstwhile Vaux changed all that, however, and paved the way for what has become a restaurant row on Fifth Avenue. After a 16-year run, Cucina's closing in 2004 left many regulars bereft. Its reincarnation as Tempo that same year assuaged the grief, however.
Chef Michael Fiore made the transition from Cucina and infused his Italian-inspired dishes with other flavors from the Mediterranean, including those of France, Spain, and Morocco. Add to that his unmistakably American accent, and voilà—Tempo!
The three-course, prix fixe menu ($32, Sunday through Thursday; $42, Friday and Saturday) offers a wide range of dishes to savor. For my first course, I chose one of Tempo's signature dishes: Duck Pastilla Rolls (duck and almonds, sweetened with a Moroccan barbeque glaze, in a crisp feuille du bric wrapper). The sweetness of the glaze was reminiscent of a Hoisin sauce and gave the dish a vaguely Asian flavor. It was rather tasty, though I tend to prefer duck preparations to be more savory.
The bread and bean dip added a nice touch.
My main course was an Atlantic salmon atop a chickpea falafel on a bed of charred eggplant purée with sesame tahini. The covering of radish and watercress salad added the necessary greenery. The fish was tender and moist and seemed to blend well with its plate partners. Since I dine on salmon often, this unusual preparation was a welcome change.
I should point out that Tempo offers a good selection of wines. However, the cocktails are so refreshing that I drank them instead of wine with my meal. The passion fruit Bellini made a delicious apéritif and was a nice variation of the popular drink made with white peach nectar. The Pomegranate Margarita (made with PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur) proved to be a nice twist on the classic lime version. With tasty libations like that, I didn’t really miss my wine that evening.
Selecting a dessert is, perhaps, the most difficult part of the meal. Each one seems as tempting as the next. Who can resist the New Orleans-style beignets with Café du Monde gelato or the passion fruit crème brûlée? There are also artisanal cheeses available for an additional charge. I finally decided upon the warm molten chocolate cake with caramel pecan crunch gelato. Yum!
Tempo brings a sort of informal stylishness that was once a scarcity in this part of Brooklyn. The décor of the dining room and wine bar is chic, yet casual. In addition, the waitstaff is courteous, relaxed, and knowledgeable. Above all, however, one is made to feel comfortable. Keep up the Tempo!
Tempo
256 Fifth Avenue (bet. Carroll St & Garfield Pl), Park Slope, Brooklyn
(718) 636-2020
http://www.tempobrooklyn.com/
By train: M,R to Union Street
By bus: B63
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