• Just a roller and a cleaning brush

Materials

• Crazy Seal Kit

• Fan-Tastic fan - https://amzn.to/35q7lQA

• Fan-Tastic vent - https://amzn.to/3d4T4LW

• Fridge vent - https://amzn.to/3d6HRdL

• Fridge vent cover - https://amzn.to/2Wjb5iP

• Smoked shower skylight - https://amzn.to/3f8f0aN

• Plumbing vent covers - https://amzn.to/2SoKEXJ

• Dicor Sealant - https://amzn.to/2SI4JZB

How to replace your RV roof yourself!

There is many ways to tackle a job but this is how I tackled replacing all the roof fixtures and rotted wood on my 99 Fleetwood Bounder.

First step was to replace all the exhaust fans and vents… why? Well if i’m going to go through the effort of sealing up the roof then I want to make sure everything is new or at least in working order. In my case I also replaced the plumbing vents and skylight too.

After all that was redone and resealed, I cleaned the rood and assessed any damage that needs to be fixed. My roof had some rot on it from years of a leaking antenna. Once. I had that fixed I followed the Crazy Seal instructions and cut. in all the roof fixtures, finishing it up with rolling 2 coats on top.

Zach's pro tip

I would consider replacing all the roof fixtures before rolling. on the crazy seal. This will make it so you dont have to redo anything later.

• Drill

• Level

• Tape measure

Wall Control can convert your space into useful space

I have been such a big fan of Wall Control and their product so I am excited to introduce some new tool holders as well as a whole new garage space for my SxS projects! I love the flexibility that these walls bring. Also there might be a chrome drill station in there somewhere.. did you see it?

Like that workbench? Download the plans

Check out Wallcontrol for your next shop organization project - https://www.wallcontrol.com/southern-ginger-workshop/

Zach's pro tip

Make sure you use the proper anchors.. unlike I did.. :D

• Ender 3 3D printer

• Raspberry pi with Octoprint

• Filament

Never thought 3D printing would help solve these problems

5 RV problems that I solved using my 3D printer. Sometimes you just can't find the part you need and in this case you make it!

• Cup holder

• Ceiling cap/plug

• Toothbrush Holder

• Air compressor winterizer

Cup holders

A while back I remove the passenger cup holder when we put the new floors in but I never put it back because it was just too far gone, broken and chipped up. I had the idea to remake it but 3D printing 2 new ones that mount to the center console solved this problem. And for an extra bonus it gives the passenger some much needed leg room.

Ceiling Caps

If you’re like me and removed the antenna/satellite dishes well you are left with a nice pair of holes in the ceiling. I’ve seen where folks put lights up there or even just tape over it. Put with a 3D printer you can make yourself a nice little cap to make it look professional. If you don’t have a 3D printer, I can make these and any of these products for you, just reach out.

Toothbrush holder

Ahh the toothbrush… But where do you put it to dry and during transit? Well luckily there is some great ideas on Thingiverse and one of them I like in particular had a flat side to it. I was able to mount it to the wall so we have the perfect place to put our brushes every time.

Winterizing with your air compressor

This is something I dread every time because it just can cost too much more money than it’s worth. Well not when you 3D print yourself an air compressor attachment that allows you to blow 20PSI air through all your lines.

What I do is drain the hot water tank and hit the lever to bypass the tank. Add a compressor hose to the water inlet and start from the farthest point (usually your kitchen sink) and work my way back until all I hear is air. And for the traps I just add some potable anti-freeze.

Drawer travel locks

Ugh. My RV is older so some of the locks just don’t work. I’ve ordered varies clips and locks but just didn’t work out. After some modeling in Fusion 360 I was able to create a mount for a standard clip I previously bought off Amazon. This has turned out to work out great. I had to slam on my brakes this last trip and the doors held great!

Zach's pro tip

Just remember if you don’t want to get yourself a 3D printer, I am sure someone you know or even myself can print it for you.

Ahh, clean air at last

Alight, let’s be honest… do you have an air cleaner in your shop? Maybe you made a DIY or otherwise with a box fan.. I know I have! To be fair I don’t usually use an air cleaner unless I am powder coating, and even then its just to keep the “overspray“ off the parts. This product has changed that for me.

Instead of having a centralized non-moveable air cleaner in the ceiling of your shop. This product slides up next to where you’re working to target the air right at the source. Even better, this air cleaner doesn’t pull the dust past your face because the pleated filter is down low where the dust naturally falls. This helps in many ways but most importantly it reduces the dust you could potentially inhale.

With 3 powerful speeds, I can see how this product could pull dust from many feet away from your work area. Axiom tells me that the pleated filter has 15x more surface area over a standard air cleaner filter. That’s all fancy but what it really means is less filter changes and better longer lasting performance.

Ok so a few things to consider. This thing is fairly heavy… it’s very well built. I haven’t weighed it but I would guess the fan/top is around 20lbs. Luckily, It’s totally safe to put it on it’s side if you need to change the filter and can’t lift it up and over by yourself. The bottom is made from a really tough plastic that can slide around, (I may make a caster base for it) but there are times that I have pulled it and untwisted the base. Not a big deal but can be somewhat of a pain if you’re pulling it around a lot.

Final thoughts, I am excited to have this great product in my shop, makes be feel better about the airborne dust that I stir up sweeping, sanding, painting and more. If you haven’t already, check out the video above for more details!

Zach's pro tip

Even though this makes a difference in airborne dust, I would always recommend proper dust mask and safety equipment as well.

Cost: ~ $400

Difficulty: Novice

TOOLS USED

• Atlas 46 Knee Pads

• Atlas 46 Tool roll

• Air compressor with impact wrench (1 1/8in socket)

MATERIALS USED

• Roadmaster reflex stabilizer

• Roadmaster F53 install kit

Diving in or should I say driving in…

First off, I wouldn’t call myself an expert in anything especially mechanical things. But if you know how to remove couple bolts, then you can handle doing this yourself.

Before you start, lift up the front of your RV, this will five you room to get an impact in there to remove the bolts. I chose to just use the stabilizer jacks and lifted them as far as I could. Worked for me but I would also add a couple wood blocks under them. For extra safety add a couple jack stands under the front axel.

Now you can do the fun part, crawl under the passenger side; behind the tire and locate the 1 1/8in nuts on the rear of the front leaf spring. Remove those nuts and add the provided plate from the install kit making sure to face the angle inward. (seen in the video). Tighten up the nuts and the hard part is done.

Now add the other side of the mount to the steering drag link and leave it somewhat loose.

Now add the shock itself with the provided bolts and tighten everything down. As a side tip, make sure the wheel is as straight as possible before you tighten everything down. It doesn’t have to be perfect but the closer the better.

Zach's pro tip

If you feel like the RV is drifting to one side after you install it, loose the bolts, straighten the wheel and retighten. That should fix your issue.

Cost: Free ~ $999

Difficulty: Easy

TOOLS USED

• Axiom CNC (Note: I give one-on-one support to folks that use my link)

  • Check out my review

• Get the rotary kit

Spin me right round

It’s finally here! I upgraded my Axiom CNC with the rotary kit and I have some thoughts!

First off, this was super easy to install, but you need to make sure you have an Axiom Pro+ machine. If you have an Axiom Pro (like me) you can still add this but you will need to send in your "controller box“ to Axiom to upgrade it. They were able to turn my box around pretty quickly, around 5 business days.

Once you unpack everything, there will be a cable you can connect to the back of the table. After plugging it in to the back, you will need to set up your DSP to include the A axis. So you will have X, Y, Z and A. The instructions talk about all this as well.

When you setup your 3D design in V-Carve pro, you will need to use the proper post processor. You can find that here. This basically will make the X-axis act as if it was the A-axis. Also note that your x-axis will not be controlled by the gcode, only by your DSP. So if you move it for any reason, it will not move back when you start the job. Don’t ask me how I know :D

Zach's pro tip

Sometimes when you use the rotary, it will cut too much and cause the rotary to skip.. this doesn’t hurt anything and it can be easily fixed by re-homing and resetting your origin. Once centered, you can run the job again! As always, if you run into issues, you can reach out to myself or Axiom.

Cost: ~ $125

Difficulty: Beginner

TOOLS USED

• Make it Snappy tools drill bits (ON SALE)

• Drill / Impact

• Miter saw

• Router

MATERIALS USED

• (8) 8’ 5/4x6 Deck Boards

• (2) 8’ 4x4 Pressure Treated

• (4) 8’ 2x6 Pressure Treated

• (7) 8’ 2x4 Pressure Treated

Getting started

I did make a set of drawings in sketchup for this, I may go ahead and release the plans if anyone is interested. Starting off, I built the top structure upside down. Cutting everything to size with the miter saw.

After I felt good about that, I flipped it over and added the top, this was 9 deck boards that overlapped ever so slightly. This wasn’t on purpose but i am glad they had some overlap. Easy on the hands :D

By this time, it gets real heavy but it’s time to flip it back over and add the legs and braces. I used 6in bolts to hold the legs in place so that I could break it down if I ever needed to.

One last flip over to setup the seating area and round over the edges with a router and enjoy!

Zach's pro tip

Use lag bolts for the outside wings of the bench.

Cost: ~ $700

Difficulty: Expert

TOOLS USED

• Atlas 46 Knee Pads

• Atlas 46 Tool roll

• Tablesaw / Circular saw

• Fein Multi-tool

• Drill / Impact

• Scroll saw / jigsaw

• Laminate Flooring Cutter

• Laminate tapping block and hook

MATERIALS USED

• 10 boxes of Wood flooring from Lumber Liquidators

• Underlayment and trim

Diving in

I don’t want to lie to you and tell you that this was an easy job because it wasn’t. But it was very rewarding to see the finished product. It makes the RV feel so much more up to date. And doing it yourself saves you a boat load too! We figured around 2-3k.. that’s some cash!

First thing we did was remove the bed and bed frame. We found that this was actually screwed directly to the floor and the carpet was bumped up to the sides of it. Yeah, so there was an interior carpet part and and exterior. I would say the bedroom was the hardest part because of all the staples and cuts around pipes.

After that was all cleared up, I started laying down the underlayment, this can be put down as you go so after a few strips we added out first few boards! The very first row was brad nailed into the subfloor but the rest of the whole floor was floated (not attached)

Moving into the bathroom and hall, these were tricky because of the cuts but with some measurements you can make those cuts fairly quickly.

The main part was the kitchen/living/driving area. This went much quicker until we hit the slide! Under the slide is very difficult. So much in fact, I would almost recommend to do that part first! Cutting around the engine hump wasn’t bad, just some trial and error, and remember you can always take away more material but you can’t add it back :D

Lastly we added the wood under our captain chairs, you have to duck under the wheel wells to get the bolts loose. Have a friend hold a wrench on top while you’re underneath. I think it was a 17mm..

Zach's pro tip

Make sure all the boards are staggered, use clear caulk around the edges when you’re done and enjoy!

Cost: Free ~ $10

Difficulty: Easy

TOOLS USED

• Axiom CNC (Note: I give one-on-one support to folks that use my link)

  • Check out my review

• 12mm wrench

• Screwdriver

MATERIALS USED

• New hose (Optional)

• Coolant or distilled water

OMG IT’S BLUE

Nothing like knocking out multiple things at once! I needed to change the fluid and at the same time I decided to swap out the hoses with something a little more stylish!

As far as swapping the fluid, it’s super easy, you just need to unhook the left hose from the spindle and add short piece of hose to back to the spindle. Take both of the hoses (the disconnected end and the new hose) and put them in a container of water / coolant. Turn the spindle speed down to 0 and hit the on/off button. This will wash out the existing fluid and replace it with the new fluid.

It’s as easy as that.

Now, if you want to swap out the hoses, do the same step as before but in this case, you will not need the additional hose because we want to run the pump dry. This will allow us to disconnect it without making a HUGE mess.. haha.

I would recommend removing one hose at a time, use that hose as a template to cut the new hose to the right length. Note: both hoses are the same length.

Once you do that, you will want to add water / coolant to the reservoir and repeat the steps as if you were flushing the water.

All this is covered in the video above and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.

Zach's pro tip

Make sure your spindle speed is set to zero.. you don’t want the spindle spinning when you’re trying to change the fluid :D

The day Before

A local maker and good friend Drew from Ox in the shop had an awesome meetup at his shop. It was raining and foggy but nice and bright in cozy inside. Got to hang with some folks I haven’t seen in a LONG time! Oh and made a minor tweak to Drew’s logo. (Can you see it?)

Day 1

Early on I got an email from Wall Control asking if I wanted to go on a tour of their facility. Umm, yes please! We met at the logistics facility in Tucker, GA. Here is where we got to see where all the magic happens as far as quality control, packaging, pallet wrapping, sales and more! They even catered in Chick-Fil-A.. Always good in my book! After that we went to the place where the real magic happens. The processing plant where they take rolls of steel and 1800 ton presses to stamp out what we all know and love as Wall Control. We followed that up with a drink at a local brewery and headed to the show!

This is where things got fun, Wall Control needed help setting up the booth so I offered my time, besides it was only 4pm and I had 4hrs to kill until the maker meetup afterparty. After getting lost, we parked in the loading dock and got to work.

While helping them, I ran into my friends at Firm Grip gloves and dropped off the laser engraved name tags I made for the show. After chatting with them and running into some friends, I was able to just kick back and relax until the 8pm after party started.

This point I was hungry so a few of us makers grabbed some really expensive chicken sandwiches and tater tots and joined the crowd. While there, a fellow maker reached out and asked If I could use a ticket because they purchased one but wasn’t able to use it. Well, how could I refuse, I was having a blast.

Day 2 (My Last day)

Friday, which was the second to last day of the conference, I showed up somewhat late and not a single soul in the main room… I guess I missed the memo :D. I hung out with my Wall Control friends until we made a game plan. I was able to catch a class that Adam (Lazy Guy DIY) was teaching for Totalboat. That was a lot of fun and I made some blue/purple epoxy thingie but I love the colors!

Wrapped up the evening with an amazing dinner with the folks from Firm Grip gloves and headed home. Not too bad for not planning on going… haha.

I do still find it hard to justify the $320+ price tag but seeing everyone gathered in one place is always a sight to see! Maybe next year it will be less expensive! Also spreading out the classes would be helpful, it was hard to see all the classes because they all were around the same time and you have to choose.

Thanks for the amazing time everyone, this community never ceases to amaze!

Cost: Free ~ $20 (If you have the equipment)

Difficulty: Novice

TOOLS USED

• Eastwood blast cabinet

• Eastwood dual-voltage powder gun

• Air compressor (I used my 60gal for the blast cabinet and a pancake compressor for the powder)

• 400 Degree oven

• Screw driver

MATERIALS USED

• Glass beads for blast cabinet

• Bronze metallic powder

From Brass to Beautiful

If you’re anything like me, I am not a fan of polished brass and either is my fiancé. Thing gave me an idea to learn a new skill, powder coating. This is my very first powder coating project so I am sure there is better ways but either way, I am super happy with the results!

First things first, you have to remove all the hardware from the cabinets, doors and drawers. Also keep in mind that this process requires an oven that can get to 400 degrees or more. So my next step was to remove all the plastic that I thought would melt in the oven. That being said, I didn’t remove the plastic on the hinges and that worked just fine.

After I got rid of all the plastic, the next step was to clean up all the metal, because it is brass and steel, I chose to use glass beads that wouldn’t damage the surface. I did have some peeling happening on the door handle but after powder coating, you can’t see it. This is an Eastwood medium size blast cabinet, it hooks up to your air compressor and works perfect for these kinds of things!

My favorite part, adding color and powder coating! I used a copper pipe to hang all the hinges on so that I could get an even coat of powder on the hardware. After that I baked it in the oven for 20min past “wet“. Wet is when you check on the powder after a few minutes to see if it looks wet. After that, start the timer for 15-20min at 350-400 degrees.

Now you get to put everything back and enjoy your hard work. For me, it took about 4hrs to do it all. Of course I got a lot more to do around the house but this was a good first step in trying to save some money. I’ve heard you can use hammer tough spray paint as well but powder coating will hold up to much more use and abuse.

Zach's pro tip

Make sure you remove all the clear-coats before you powder coat it. The static charge will not work if there is any kind of finish on the item. Also don’t touch the item until it cools down… don’t ask me why I know this :D

Cost: Free ~ $200

Difficulty: Novice

TOOLS USED

• Tablesaw / Circular saw

• Axiom CNC

• Drill

MATERIALS USED

• 48in x 1in dowel

• 3/8in dowel

• Precision Board

• Black spray paint

• Graphite powder

• rub-'n-buff

• 3d design

• Klingspor sandpaper

Full size Trident

So a while back I made a small 18in tall Aquaman Trident out of some cherry wood. But then it made me wonder.. what would it take to go full size?

So this project breaks down to 4 pieces. The Trident top / fork, which I made in 2 halves. The bottom / handle and the pole. The pole is just a 1in wooden dowel so the fun part is the rest.

I knew if I made this out of wood that it would be too heavy so I wanted to use some kind of foam board. This is when I reached out the Precision Board for some samples.

To be fair, this is not a cheaper alternative but a better solution if you are concerned about the weight.

It cuts, sands and mills beautifully and was perfect for this project.

This process is the same for all 3 CNC’ed sections. Yes I had to use a CNC. Starting with a 1/4in endmill I created some 3/8in alignment holes for dowels. This is what I will use to register the two halves. The main thing here is that the pins are centered around your design. (I made that mistake before)

After I ran the rough and finishing passes on side one, I flipped the piece, clamped it and crossed my fingers! Oh, I think I forgot to mention, this was my first attempt at doing something like this.. lol.

Looks like it went well, took about an hour to cut both sides and I am totally happy with it!

After it's cut out using anything you got, this stuff cuts nice! I sanding it down to 220 grit and test fit it on a 3/8in down that I centered on both the center pole (1in dowel) and the handle.

Like I mentioned before, I had to break the Trident into 2 pieces, this is because the samples weren't quite big enough. Luckily the guy I purchased the 3d design from made the modification for me so I could use it in v-carve.

None the less, I sanded this to 220 and got it ready to be glued to the top half.

This was a gut-wrenching part of this build. After almost 4hrs of machine time, one of the forks BROKE!

After some thinking, I used super glue to mend it and wood putty to fill it all back up.. can't even tell!

You can't do all this work and not have a nice finish. after a few coats of primer and black paint. I broke out the Graphite powder to add a sheen to the Trident that makes it look more like metal.

I love this stuff!

After you are happy with the graphite powder... that will give you a good set of mid-tones, you will want to add the highlights. My favorite is to use rub-'n-buff. This is a waxy finish with metal flake. It really makes the finish pop!

After that is all down, seal it up with some clear of some kind and you're ready to enjoy it!

I really like how this came out!

Zach's pro tip

I forgot to add CNC tabs between the forks of the Trident… 4hrs later on the 2nd side of the relief cut, I heard a chatter and crack… One of the folks broke off. Luckily I was able to recover with some super glue but in the future make sure those folks are stable!

Cost: Free ~ $30

Difficulty: Beginner

TOOLS USED

• Tablesaw / Circular saw

• Axiom CNC

MATERIALS USED

• 1/4 Plywood

• 1/2 Plywood

• Pallet wood

• Mable & Cherry Scrap wood

• Wood Glue

Gifts for your Valentine

Valentine's Day is right around the corner and I created 3 easy projects that would make for a great gift. The best part is this was all just wood that I had laying around. Yes, I used my Axiom CNC but that doesn't mean you have to, I did it to save time, after all I did all these projects in 4hrs or less.

Towel Rack

Going into making the towel rack, I knew I wanted to use up as much scrap wood as I could. I didn’t need to use the CNC for this project, I could have used the scroll saw and/or bandsaw but it did help speed things up. I did make an outline first on the 1/4in plywood so I knew where it would cut heart out at. It was a bonus that I was able to reuse the wood that I used to cut out the Infinity you & me design.

At the end I added a double hook to represent his & hers.. but I am sure it won’t get used that way haha.

Key Ring Holder

Key ring holder has been on my list for a long time, I wanted something that was “Home“ but also show love so I came up with a quick design using a heart as the “o“. To add a little more flavor, I turned the grain on a 1/4in sheet of plywood I had to bump the heart out.

I added hooks every 2in, 4 in total. I like how that came out but I do admit I do not like how I mounted to the wall. I think keyhole pockets might be best for this king of design.

Again, this has scroll saw all over it but to save time I used my CNC.. plus who doesn’t like the pretty blue lights? :D

Ring Tray / Holder

Finally, a ring tray or change holder or keys holder.. it’s really up to you how you use it but if your spouse or fiancé is like mine… she takes her ring off at night and I wanted a nice place for her to put it safely. Out of all the projects, this one does need the CNC… I guess you could do something like this with a router but that would be tough! None the less, I am happy how this came out and I think the cherry and maple combination worked out well.

Zach's pro tip

Make sure you have enough space top and bottom when placing your wood on the CNC… I ran into a issue where I had to move the workpiece 5mm in the Y+ direction… can you spot it in the video?

Setup

My Axiom Auto-route AR8 Pro is a beast of a machine and it’s not light by any means, I think the total weight with the stand, toolbox and bed, it sits somewhere in the 600-700lb range. So make sure you have some friends! Overall Setup is self explanatory, I even have a video on assembling it if you need help. Also make sure you know what power requirements you need, some are only 110v and some are 220v like mine.

Innovation

One of the things that really attracted me to the Axiom brand is their attention to detail and their continued innovation of products over the years. Take my machine for an example, Axiom Auto-route AR8 Pro, I purchased this before the laser attachment or the forth axis was even born.

Little known fact, the first thing I did was add a light to my gantry because it made it so much easier to see the work piece and let’s face it, it just looks cool! Well soon after, Axiom started selling their own version… Dang, I missed out :D

But even in that scenario, they’re staying connected with the community and innovating with them, listening to them and most importantly, asking questions. That’s something you only seem to find in small companies!

Since, I have purchased my machine, I added accessories like auto-adjusting clamps, aluminum guides, upgraded my machine to the Axiom Auto-route AR8 Pro+ (This will allow from the 4th axis), and my favorite accessory the jTech 4.2w Laser.

When I first got the laser, it was made to screw onto the z-axis and it worked well but was impractical for switching between spindle and laser operations. In working the Jay from jTech, I had this crazy idea to use magnets to hold the mount and then you can remove the laser whenever you needed to. Luckily, Jay is an amazing engineer and after many attempts he got it working perfect! This is now what you will receive if you buy a the jTech laser attachment. I love trying to help make things better!

But wait there is more, so far i’ve only been talking about the AR8 pro+… but there is a new Axiom CNC in the lineup. The Axiom i2R, this CNC is going to be a game changer! They have taken all the good parts about what’s makes the pro series so efficient and accurate and created a lighter weight, lower cost, futuristic looking machine! Oh boy, I want one!

A+ Support

So you do the research and you find the CNC that is best for your needs, you order it, set it up and boom, something breaks! This is where support has to be one of the higher things to consider when looking for a CNC machine for your shop. Like many folks starting off, this is a beast of a machine and if you don’t know some of the basics, you might cause more harm that good. Things like breaking bits or cutting too deep… these are part of the learning curve that you have to accept in some way but it’s also nice to be able to contact support to see if you’re doing something wrong!

Axiom has a great support staff and I have always been able to get my questions asked. If not by phone, then by email, either way, I get the answer I need. In addition to that, I offer my own support to folks that order a machine trough my links, it’s my way of saying thanks! I have been on many one-on-one calls/video chats helping folks get the most out of their Axiom CNC.

I also have had some issues of my own, I remember when I had a lightning storm come through and my handheld controller went bad, a quick call to Axiom support and they drop shipped me a new one! I had another case with the laser cutting out on my after long runs… turned out the AC adapter was going out, had one sent overnight, no questions asked. That’s the kind of support you need, folks that know their product inside and out and stand up to their quality.

I also started a Facebook group called Axiom Precision CNC Owners for folks that already have machines to get help from others!

Cost

At the time of this review, Axiom has 4 lines of products to fit your growing needs. The newest Axiom i2R starts at $2999 and I can’t wait to see one of those in person. They also have a variety of sizes, from a 2ft x 2ft to a full 4ft x 8ft. I personally settled for the middle there with a 2ft x 4ft and it’s accomplished everything I have thrown at it!

Now, let’s not kid ourselves, these are industrial quality machines and that quality can come with a cost. My personally set me back $9000 with all the accessories that I wanted plus the Laser attachment. But, I have made that money back in about a year and half.

I actually sell more Laser products than CNC.. go figure.

—

I hope this helps you decide on a CNC for your shop, I know I couldn’t live without it. As always, if you have any questions, feel free to comment below or reach out to be directly.

-Zach Manring

We all life gifts for the holidays or special dates, here is 5 probably unusual gifts that I think your Woodworking friend or family member will love!

■ Firm Grip Gloves ($26.00 )

■ The Hedgehog ($30.00)

■ Featherpro ($56.99 )

■ RZ Mask M1 ($28.38)

■ ISOTUNES ($89.99)

■ Ridgid Pocket Impact ($79.00)

■ iGaging Digital Caliber ($26.95)

■ Rockler Square ($12.99)

■ Snappy Drill Bit Set ($69.18)

■ CA Glue Kit ($30.00)

■ Atlas 46 Adams Pouch ($60)

■ Atlas 46 Tool Roll ($110)

Zach's pro tip

Always check for holiday deals!