Spark plugs are an integral part of the engine. Each one sends a little high voltage spark between the terminals, which is used to ignite fuel in the engine. When spark plugs fail, this means that your engine will stop running efficiently.

Over time spark plugs can become dirty, picking up a residue from the burned fuel, coating the electrodes with carbon. Additionally, repeated sparking of the metal components can simply wear them down, increasing the distance the spark has to jump between electrodes, requiring additional charge from the battery which is not always available.  In short, spark plugs will wear out.

So how can you tell that your spark plugs are not working normally? What are the main symptoms of this small, but vitally important part, starting to fail?

Misfiring

Because spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in the combustion chambers of the pistons, this is one of the classic symptoms of faulty or inconsistently sparking plugs. Misfiring is when your engine judders in a jerky motion, due to the plugs failing to properly ignite the air fuel mixture. You’ll notice spluttering sounds, engine power drops – especially when going from stationary to moving – and the ride quality will diminish.

Spark plug failure is amongst the reasons why you could be experiencing misfiring, and none of the other culprits are good news either. Therefore if your car is suffering from this issue, get it checked out by a mechanic immediately, not only to resolve the underlying problem, but also to prevent further damage to the engine.

Check Engine Light

This light can blink into play on your dashboard for a number of reasons. One of which is failing spark plugs – and in some vehicles, this is one of the only or main indicators you’ll see. When the engine misfires, it is usually picked up by the ECU as a fault, causing the check engine light to ignite. Once the light has alerted you to a problem, using an OBD2 scanner will allow you to identify the cause – which could well be an issue with the spark plugs.

Fuel Economy

Are you taking more trips than usual to the filling station, but you’re not spending any more time than usual behind the wheel? Everyone should be tracking fuel economy – usually as part of your monthly budget.

Increased spend means lower efficiency. One of the reasons why efficiency could deteriorate is because of fouled or dirty spark plugs, causing misfires and engine issues that could see you spending up to 30% more on fuel. Replace the plugs and the problem should disappear.

Rough Idle

Normally a car will idle around 1,000 rpm as a baseline. No doubt you’re quite used to the sound of the engine purring gently as you wait at a junction or the lights. No doubt you’ll notice if the soft hum transforms into a rough, jumpy sound that causes the car to shake – emanating from a particular kind of misfiring cylinder that only happens under idle.

How does this happen? When the engine misfires, this can let through unburned fuel, which can often be incorrectly identified by the oxygen sensors, which then adjusts the fuel and air flow resulting in a lean mixture that causes misfires.

If you suspect this problem then it’s going to pay to get down the garage. The explosive nature of the fault can lead to more costly damage to the engine – which is not going to be so cheap to repair.

Hard Starting

Car won’t start in the morning? Most people will usually put this down to forgetting to refuel or the battery having a moment. However, bad spark plugs could also stop you from getting to where you want to go – stopping the starting process, or leaving you cranking the engine for a very long time, before it finally starts turning properly.

Getting your car started from a standing start, particularly when it has been allowed to fully cool down, is hard work for the engine. The control module adds a little extra fuel to get the engine going. No problem at all for a normal healthy spark plug, but this is where older, worn plugs will often struggle.

Faulty spark plugs will also cause premature battery drain when starting, as there’s no charge coming from the alternator to keep it topped up. Changing your plugs can help save your battery, as well as making sure you start properly.

Slow Acceleration

We’ve already mentioned the problems with the oxygen sensor under idle, well this issue doesn’t disappear when you put your foot down either. The lean mixture can make acceleration a real hard task for the car, and you’ll notice that it’s not getting out of the blocks like it used to. Instead you’ll find it slow and sluggish. The car will not respond normally, sometimes even giving the impression that it’s having to work hard to really pull itself along.

If you’re experiencing bad acceleration, then it’s likely that spark plug issues could be at fault. When you put your foot down, the spark plugs need to work faster, as the chambers fill more quickly – meaning that if there’s a problem with a plug, then it’s likely to become pronounced when you try to accelerate. Sort the problem out by having your plugs inspected, and changed if they’re found to be at fault.

Hesitation and Surging

Again, this is a problem associated with the acceleration. You’ll notice that your engine is not responding normally to pressure on the pedal. Again, this is due to the poor air fuel mixture mentioned previously, leading to the engine not being able to combust at the right power level. It can be especially dangerous when driving in close traffic, such as on a motorway or dual carriageway.

And Finally

No one wants a fault with their car, but at least if you have spark plug issues then these can be easily resolved by buying some replacements, and doing the necessary work to get them into the engine. It’s not the easiest job in the world, but with a little advice, replacing your spark plugs at home can save you a bit of money, when compared to paying out for the pros. And as with most mechanical problems – remember that early identification and resolution can stop knock on issues occurring in your car. 

The post Are You Suffering from Spark Plug Failure? appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

Over the years, sitting behind the wheel of your car, you become accustomed to the way it works and its capabilities. It’s no surprise therefore, that you’ll quickly notice when your vehicle lacks the same oomph as you usually experience. A loss of power is most apparent when you’re accelerating, and can be due to a number of reasons including air flow into the engine, fuel flow and even faults with the exhaust system. So, if your vehicle is consistently putting in a sub-par performance, these could be some of the reasons why…

Fuel system

If your car is not getting the required flow of fuel, then this will usually result in a drop in power. Some of the most common causes of fuel problems include:

Clogged fuel filter

The fuel filter is designed to prevent dirt and debris from entering the fuel system. However, over time this can itself become clogged with all the excess material in the fuel system, impeding the flow of petrol or diesel into the engine. Such a problem with the filter, will often show up when you are driving up a hill or trying to overtake a car – as you will not be able to achieve the power and acceleration you need to achieve.

Fuel injectors

Fuel injectors can also become clogged with dirt over time, which prevents the proper flow of fuel into the engine. You’ll most likely notice this problem when accelerating, as your vehicle will struggle to reach high revs. It may also be accompanied by ignition, stalling and misfiring problems, and you may even become aware of the smell of fuel around your car.

Diesel particulate filter

The diesel particulate filter (or DPF) can easily become blocked with particles. Many cars have systems where you can burn off the debris and particulate stuck in the filter at high speeds, but if you are only ever getting out into the gridlocked urban crawl this may not happen. Some cars even have a system where the DPF will switch the car into a limp home mode. If this happens to you, then get to your local garage as soon as possible, to have the part cleaned.

Exhaust system

Your engine needs to clear out old exhaust gasses in order to take in clean air for combustion. If your exhaust system is not working properly, this will in effect choke your engine and stop it from reaching full power. Some of the causes behind this could be:

Backfiring exhaust

No one wants to have a backfiring exhaust. Usually the problem is caused by a poor air/fuel mix that causes the unburned fuel in the exhaust fumes to explode when it comes into contact with the hot metal exhaust. These small explosions will cause you to lose power under acceleration. However, the cause of this issue will generally be somewhere in the fuel system – such as the fuel pump or the carburettor.

Blocked catalytic convertor

Over time your catalytic convertor’s effectiveness at filtering exhaust gasses may diminish. This can lead to the part becoming clogged, making it difficult for the exhaust gasses to pass through the intricate mesh of honeycombed precious metals that cleans out the harmful particles. Such a blockage will cause the exhaust gasses to become backed up in the engine.

Clogged exhaust

The whole exhaust system is not immune from blockages. Old leaves, bits of grit and gravel or even rubbish papers and plastics, can get lodged in your exhaust and stop it from functioning properly. If you’re experiencing a loss in power, then this is quite an easy one to strike off your list.

Engine

As the main driving force behind your vehicle’s power, some possible causes of a loss in power could be the following issues in the engine:

Turbocharger

The turbo forces air into the engine at higher revs, giving it the extra oxygen it needs for increased combustion. Turbochargers can suffer from issues, if there is a hole or lose connection in the tubing, which will impact performance. Similarly, it can get blocked up with leaves, rubbish and grit and needs to be cleared regularly. Finally, the turbocharger is highly dependent on oil, so make sure that all your oil systems and filters are working properly.

Timing belt

If your timing belt does not have the correct tension, or has been poorly maintained, this can cause your engine valves to open and close at incorrect intervals, resulting in poor engine performance. This problem is one of the rarer ones on our list, and is accompanied by a tell-tale ratting coming from the engine.

Poor compression

Holes, leaks in valves, problems with the head gasket and other engine issues can cause a loss of pressure (poor compression) within the engine, which means you will not be able to achieve full power and performance.

Bad air filter

The air filter is designed to catch small pieces of grit, dirt, rubbish and debris that would  negatively impact the performance of the engine, if they were to penetrate the combustion chambers on your vehicle. Over time however, the filter itself can become blocked, preventing the engine from getting the oxygen it needs to run properly. Check the part for blockages and free up your engine.

Electrical systems

Failures in electrical systems can stop the engine from operating at full performance. Some of the issues that may reduce power include the following:

Engine warning light is illuminated

Not only does the engine warning light point to a problem within your engine, it may also put your car into a kind of reduced power mode (known as a limp mode) where it operates at lower levels of performance, to ensure the driver is safe and the chances of getting into an accident are reduced.

Spark plugs are failing

Your spark plugs individually ignite the fuel in the chamber of their respective pistons. If one or more these stop working, this will cause unburnt fuel to pass through the engine, creating misfires. Plugs get worn out eventually, and have a lifespan of around 80K to 100K miles.

Ignition coil problems

And as we mentioned, the ignition coil powers the spark plugs. If this part is faulty, then you’ll notice problems when out on the road, with misfires, poor idling and a reduction in fuel efficiency. Eventually if you overlook ignition coil problems, your car will fail to start, leaving you with a tow bill in addition to a repair bill.

Camshaft position sensor error

Most cars use an onboard computer (ECM), that factors in the camshaft speed to calculate timings for the fuel injection and ignition systems. If there is a malfunction with this sensor and incorrect information is sent to the ECM, then this can result in poor performance or may even stop the engine altogether.

MAF error

The mass airflow sensor is another sensor that provides information to the ECM. In this case it provides a variable used in the calculation on engine load and thus performance. Any failure in the part would diminish the engine’s power output.

Oxygen sensor error

Gasses exiting the vehicle are monitored with the oxygen sensor, positioned in the exhaust system, which sends information back to the ECM about the air-fuel mix being used by the car. This in turn controls the fuel injection and engine timing systems – any problem with these will impact power and performance.

Cooling system

Cars generate a huge amount of heat. This needs to be controlled and dissipated by cooling systems within the vehicle. Problems with cooling can show up in the following way:

Overheating cooling system

Expect a reduction in performance in high ambient temperatures as your car’s cooling system has to work that bit harder. If you are experiencing problems with heating in cool temperatures, then this will lead to a loss of performance. It is also one of the biggest red flags, indicating serious engine problems and deserves the attention of a professional.

A last word

Other potential causes of power loss include issues with the EGR valve and the injection pump delivery value (on diesel engines). Loss of power is a serious issue, and could lead to accidents if you expect a certain level of acceleration from your car in a tight situation. Always drive with due caution and get your car checked out if there’s any drop in performance.

The post Car Losing Power: Possible Causes and Culprits appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

We’ve all been there. You’re driving down the road and there’s something not quite right with your vehicle. What’s that sound? Rattling noises are not only annoying, but they could be a little early warning sign that something else is up with your car. What are the most common causes of the rattle, and what does each one mean?

Rattles coming from underneath the car

Have you managed to track down the rattling sound’s origin? If it is coming from the underside of your vehicle, it could be down to these common causes:

Catalytic Converter

Are you noticing a rattling sound that gets worse with accelerating? The probable culprit could well be a degrading catalytic converter. Over time the fins inside the part break down and little chunks of metal can bounce around inside the unit creating a ton of noise. Some drivers describe this sound as a metal can, full of rocks, being shaken about. As this part reduces the amount of pollution expelled by your car, it’s worth replacing the part both for the sake of your sanity, and the environment.

Heat shield

The heat shield that surrounds your exhaust system is susceptible to rust, as the part is only made of thin metal. As it detaches, it can create a constant tapping sound that will really begin to get on your nerves. Fortunately, even if the part is damaged, it is relatively inexpensive to replace.

Loose exhaust

As the exhaust system stretches down the entire length of your car, over time the joints that hold it in place can become loose, causing the system to shake and knock against the bodywork. It is entirely possible for the bolts to rust away completely. If you suspect this is the problem, then take your vehicle to an exhaust specialist for a check-up.

Rattles coming from underneath the bonnet

With plenty of moving parts under the bonnet of your car, it’s no surprise that a number of problems in this area of your vehicle can cause issues and rattling sounds:

Oil pressure

Ticking noises coming from your engine, particularly if they become more audible whilst the car is idling, could be indicative of low oil pressure. Left without attention, this issue could cause severe damage to all moving engine parts, as they are deprived of adequate lubrication. More often than not however, this will be down to low oil pressure – usually resulting from poor maintenance rather than a failed pump. Low oil pressure often requires a complete engine rebuild, so avoid this expensive issue with regular oil changes.

Water pump

When the water pump’s bearings are failing, it will make a loud rattling sound. This is due to the pressure from the drive belt, causing the bearings to grind together. You should also notice problems with your car’s temperature, as a lack of pressure from the pump will cause your vehicle to overheat.

Rattles coming from inside the car

Fortunately these are the least serious of all the rattling sounds, and are rarely connected to some kind of mechanical fault:

Loose fittings

It should be fairly obvious if a sound is coming from a loose fitting, such as a door panel or a side window pane, that’s not sitting quite correctly within the mechanism. Such complaints are quite common, and can often be fixed with a little look at a car guide. You can also find out which parts are rattling by pushing down on each individual one with the engine running, and finding out if it stops making a noise.

Rogue objects

All kinds of small objects from children’s toys to spare screws can get lost inside the car, and work their way under the seats. Even objects that are placed in the glove box can make a nuisance of themselves. If a small toy or even a boiled sweet has worked its way under the seats, you may need to get the tool kit out to free it from its rattling prison, but the peace of mind will be worth it.

And finally

Noises are an important indicator of underlying problems with your vehicle. Knocks and other sounds can identify early faults within the mechanical workings, allowing you to resolve any issues and replace parts where necessary, as failure in one system can often have knock on effects. Keeping aware behind the wheel is key to avoiding big repair bills.

The post Why is my car making a rattling noise? appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

You’d think that most people in the UK would refer to the Highway Code when questioning the rules of the road. However, there’s still a surprising number of people who prefer to rely on hearsay and pub rumours, when operating out on the road. Usually these driving myths don’t apply to the big stuff, and are more focused on the lesser known rules. So which of these myths should be consigned to the bin of bad advice, and which are actually true?

Gadgets behind the wheel

We live in an increasingly technologically powered age. Sometimes our new phones seem to be moving faster than the road laws. What’s the truth about using electronics behind the wheel?

Phone use

Phone use behind the wheel effects drivers’ reactions times to a greater extent than either marijuana or alcohol. If you want to use your phone whilst in the driver’s seat, then you’ll need to pull over and turn the engine off. Any other use is illegal. Additionally, you may be allowed to use headphones, speakerphones or a hands free kit, but if the police deem that operating this system is interfering with your driving, then you can still be penalised.

Sat Nav

Yes, you can use your phone as a Sat Nav. However, this must be held in a fixed position that does not impede your vision. You can reprogram a new route into your Sat Nav, but not whilst driving. Like the phone laws, it is illegal to interact with this electronic system whilst behind the wheel.

Headphones

Now you would probably think that using all your senses is an essential factor in safe driving on the road. You are actually allowed to have headphones in your ears, whilst in the driver’s seat, despite the fact that this may block out useful audio clues as to what’s happening outside the vehicle. We wouldn’t recommend wearing headphones – in fact, doing so could greatly increase your chances of having an accident.

Consuming

In our fast paced society, no one seems to have a spare moment. Many people like to grab a snack or drink for a driving journey. But is this behaviour strictly above board?

Eating and drinking

So many people like to have a morning coffee or a chocolate bar behind the wheel, it can’t be illegal, right? Well, even though all these people are on the right side of the law, the official advice however states that you mustn’t allow your focus to drift from the road onto your sandwich or drink. Our advice is to try to avoid eating and drinking behind the wheel, as driving should be your number one focus.

If the police believe your eating habits are getting in the way of your driving, then they can charge you with “driving without due care and attention”, which could result in you receiving a fine of up to £100 and 3 points on your license.

Smoking

Although many people have stopped smoking over the last decade or so of smoking bans in public places, you are still allowed to smoke in your vehicle. As long as you aren’t transporting children – as a law against this practice was introduced in October 2015.  Again, if the police deem that your cigarette, cigar or even your vape is impeding your ability to drive safely, then you could be looking at a fine.

Alcoholic beverages

Whilst it is most definitely illegal to be in control of your vehicle after only a small number of alcoholic drinks (quite often a single one) – it is surprisingly not illegal for you to have open containers of alcohol in the vehicle. This is illegal in the US, which may be where the myth originates, but as long as the driver is neither drunk nor drinking from the open container, no UK law has been broken.

Driving behaviour

There are certain acts behind the wheel that are considered crass and rude. But at what point do these go from being simply undesirable to downright illegal?

Splashing pedestrians

You should go out of your way to avoid splashing pedestrians, as it’s simply bad form to put anyone through the pain of getting soaked by the side of the road. However, if the police see you splash someone, and they deem it to be deliberate, then you could be looking at a lot more than a wet pedestrian. Again, this can be considered driving without due care and attention, and could leave you the subject of a fine of up to £5,000, and up to 9 points on your license.

Driving too slowly

There are actually signs that denote the minimum speed on certain sections of road, which are shown in a blue circular sign, with the lowest legal speed displayed in the centre. There is not a legal minimum on motorways however, despite plenty of talk to the contrary. However, if the traffic police deem that your slower speeds are putting other drivers at risk, then they have the power to charge you with careless driving.

Flash warnings

You may be thankful of a driver who flashes their lights to give forewarning of police speed trap, however such behaviour is actually illegal. Yes, under rule 110 of the highway code, you are allowed to flash drivers to alert them of your presence, but any other attempt to convey a message, or intimidate other drivers, is not permitted. The charge would potentially be obstructing an officer, which could see a fine of up to £1000 being issued.

Your car

Your car’s condition and usage may also be the subject of a little controversy. Let’s clear up a few myths here:

Interior light

It’s not illegal for your interior light to be turned on, although this may impede your vision or even dazzle other motorists. If the police decide however that your light could be distracting you and other road users, they can advise you to turn it off, with a fine for non-compliance.

Seatbelts

Believe it or not, you do not actually have to wear a seatbelt whilst reversing your car, although the moment you put it into forward gear, everyone in the vehicle must under UK law, be wearing a belt, or you could face a fine of up to £500. If your car doesn’t have seatbelts in the back, then children over 3 must be in the back seat and no children under 3 are allowed in the car. Get everyone to buckle up before the journey starts.

Dirty plates

You may have heard rumours that dirty number plates are a good way to avoid getting caught by speed cameras, but there are actually rules that state your vehicle’s plate must be visible at all times. In fact you can even fail your MOT for having a plate that isn’t legible, and the police can issue a fine of up to £1000.

Asking passengers for money

Whilst there is nothing wrong with asking your pals to chip in for petrol money if you’re going on a long journey, or dropping them off at the airport, anything that’s starts looking professional is illegal. Running lifts as a business is illegal without the proper licenses, however tempting it might be to earn a few extra pounds from carting around friends and family.

Driving other people’s cars when fully comp’d

Want to drive someone else’s car with their permission? Normally if you have fully comp insurance then this is completely legal. However, if you are under 25, there may be other restrictions, especially if the car is unusual. Don’t make this an excuse to bother your friend into allowing you to drive his or her fancy motor however.

And finally

If you are ever in doubt about any road law then you can always check on the internet – or even your phone. Don’t accept the anecdotal advice of people you know when it comes to matters of safety behind the wheel. And also, there are somethings on our list that might be legal, but aren’t that great. Just because you won’t get fined, doesn’t mean you should do it.

The post True or False? Common Driving Myths Debunked appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

The fuel filter is often a forgotten feature of your vehicle. Like all filtration systems, it will fail over time as it becomes increasingly clogged with all the particles it’s blocking. You might think of fuel as fairly clean, but even at the pump, fuel can contain many impurities such as dirt, rust from the storage tanks or even chips of paint.

The filter prevents contaminant from reaching the engine, which could impact its performance and shorten its lifespan. How can you ensure your filter is working properly at all times – and also tell when it’s on its way out?

The purpose of the fuel filter

The car’s fuel system draws fuel from the tank, and then passes it through the fuel filter for distribution to the engine, via the injection system or carburettor. It’s then spent as the product of combustion in the engine’s cylinder chambers, with each carefully timed ignition providing the energy needed for motion. The fuel filter forms an essential barrier, preventing dirt such as fuel impurities or rust from entering into the engine. If foreign matter does surpass the filter and enter the engine, this can cause premature wear, damage and a loss in fuel efficiency.

In the last decade fuel filters have become increasingly important as modern car designs use ever more efficient engines. The filter is an essential part that prevents damage in the engine, which could be extremely costly to repair. It’s therefore in the best interests of both your car and your bank account that you keep the filter in good working order.

Problem signs

Difficulty starting your vehicle

One of the first problems you’re likely to experience with a dirty of failing filter, is trouble starting the car. A clogged filter will deliver a reduced volume of fuel to the engine, resulting in hard starting. If left unchecked over time, then this will completely stop your car from starting.

Poor fuel economy

Your engine is a finely balanced system, controlled by computers that govern the fuel flow into the combustion chambers of the pistons. When the fuel flow is irregular, thanks to a blocked or failing fuel filter, this can mean the incorrect volume of fuel is supplied to the engine, resulting in either unburned fuel or a drop in performance – either will reduce the car’s fuel economy.

Check engine light

The check engine light is a great indicator that the engine is suffering from issues – such as poor fuel flow and a reduction in overall efficiency, both of which can result from a dirty fuel filter. This is an especially useful indicator that you need to have your fuel filter inspected by a mechanic, when accompanied by other symptoms on this list.

Strong odours

If your fuel filter is blocked, clogged or broken, then it could be both impacting the proper flow of fuel into the engine. If it is broken however, then it could also easily start leaking fuel creating strong odours around the car. This is a serious symptom and even if you don’t suspect the fuel filter, we’d recommend visiting a mechanic, if you smell fuel anywhere around your vehicle.

Stalling

As the fuel flow through a dirty or broken filter becomes increasingly constricted, insufficient fuel reaches the engine. This can be especially problematic when moving the car from a stopped position, as the engine requires more energy to overcome the inertia of the motionless vehicle – often resulting in the engine stalling. Additionally, you may notice stalls immediately after starting the car.

Decrease in power and performance

Out on the open road, a dirty or broken fuel filter will impact the overall performance of the engine, resulting in a decrease in power, which will be especially noticeable under acceleration. This may even be picked up by the internal computer, throwing the car into a special “limp mode” where the vehicle’s speed will be severely reduced to protect the engine. Cars are not supposed to drive in limp mode for extended periods of time, so if this happens you should seek out a mechanic immediately.

Misfiring

An inconsistent flow of fuel to the engine through the dirty or broken fuel filter can cause the engine to misfire, especially under acceleration. You might also experience shakes and shudders at different speeds, as the engine struggles to achieve the flow of fuel necessary to operate effectively.

Damaged fuel pump

If your fuel filter is damaged or clogged up, it will put more strain on your fuel pump as the pump works harder to push more fuel through to the engine. If you find that your pump is faulty, then it’s definitely worth having a look at the filter, to check whether or not this is the cause of the failure.

And finally

If you are having problems with the fuel filter, it makes sense to try to unclog and clean it before you go any further. However, if this has no effect on the engine’s performance, then it’s not too difficult to replace your vehicle’s fuel filter with a little mechanical knowledge.

Regular checks will also help ensure that the part is not blocked – and considering the damage that a clogged filter can inflict on your engine – it will also help you save money on engine repairs. However, the part does have a limited lifespan, and will need changing eventually.

The post Signs of a Dirty or Faulty Fuel Filter appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

Last year the number of catalytic convertor thefts almost doubled. And you don’t have to be the most imaginative person to picture how frustrating it must be to try to start your car in the morning – only to find that this vital piece of the emissions system has been ripped off.

Not only is it an inconvenience, but it could also increase your insurance premiums when you claim for a replacement catalytic convertor – or worse still if you have a very old car, it could put it beyond economic repair. So how can you avoid getting yourself in such a predicament?

How does a Catalytic Convertor Work?

Awareness around pollution went up a notch in the 1970s. Back when there were very few standards on vehicle emissions, cars were filthy beasts that chucked out a ton of pollutants into our atmosphere. To prevent this happening catalytic convertors quickly became the standard on all cars, using a redox reaction to turn carbon monoxide and unburned hydrocarbons into less harmful analogues such as carbon dioxide and water.

In order to catalyse (speed up) the redox reaction, several precious metals such as palladium, rhodium or even platinum may be used in the construction of the convertor.

Why do Thieves Steal Catalytic Convertors?

Because of the precious metals inside the convertor, stealing these parts has become an attractive enterprise for thieves. According to the experts, prices of the rhodium, palladium and platinum used in the construction have significantly increased over the past 24 months. Criminals can expect to net quite a bit of cash, usually in the region of several hundred pounds for a few minutes work removing this part from your car. And it’s a whole lot easier than stealing the whole car and having to fence it to some interested party.

How to Prevent Your Catalytic Convertor from Being Stolen

Follow this simple advice to reduce the chances of thieves targeting your vehicle.

Parking Tips

Putting your car in the right place can make it less attractive to thieves. Consider taking these actions:

Close the gaps

Make it difficult for thieves to access the underside of your car by parking up against fences, walls or a kerb – preventing them from sliding tools and cutters into the positions necessary to remove your catalytic convertor. If possible put the rear of the car next to a wall. As the convertor is situated near the exhaust box, this will dissuade criminals from targeting your vehicle.

Don’t tilt the vehicle

Parking your vehicle so that it’s hitched up on the kerb can look like an open invitation to thieves who are after catalytic convertors. It’s not that far off jacking up the car and gives criminals a whole lot more room and manoeuvrability to remove this part from the car.

Park in the light

Leaving your car in a well lit area won’t only make thieves who’re after your catalytic convertor think twice – the light makes easier to identify faces and show up on cameras – but it will stop other kinds of car crime like break-ins. Park under a traffic light, on a main road and avoid the poorly illuminated side streets.

Store your car off road

We’re not talking about Rally Class B type off road. We simply mean off the public highway. If you’ve got a garage that’s being used for nothing other than a little storage, consider clearing it out and parking the car inside. Additionally in some urban centres you can pay for overnight parking or private garages (such as multi storey car parks) and even putting the car on your drive – with a camera pointed at it (doesn’t even have to be a real camera – there are plenty of cosmetic ones available) can deter thieves.

Clever parking

If you’re in control of multiple vehicles then be a little smart with the parking. Put vehicles with a low ground clearance on either side of those with a high ground clearance to form an effective barrier to stop potential thieves getting under vehicles that they may otherwise consider an easy target.

Be unpredictable

Thieves often like to scope out a potential target vehicle before making the strike and removing the catalytic convertor. If you leave your car in the same place every night it makes it easy for criminals to know what to expect – what type of car they’re dealing with, the fixings and so-on. Don’t make it easy for them and move your car around.

Security Tips

Make your vehicle more secure with the following security advice:

Install an alarm

Live in a big city? Then you should probably already have an alarm on your car. However, make sure it has a tilt sensor that can detect sudden movements in the car, which could indicate the catalytic convertor is under attack. The noise should scare off attackers if the system triggers.

Catalytic convertor clamp

The CatClamp locks your catalytic convertor to the framework of your car in no less than 7 places, without damaging or impeding the function of the exhaust. Made using over 40 feet of aircraft gauge steel cabling, this will prove a major barrier to any thieves intent on removing the convertor from your car illegally. Alternatively there are other devices available out there that work in a similar preventative manner such as the Catloc.

Bolt welds

One of the most simple, low cost methods of securing your catalytic convertor is to get your local mechanic to get the torch out and weld the bolts, making it more difficult to remove from the body of the car. Be aware this might make the part harder to service in the future.

Mark your catalytic convertor

Some garages look for serial numbers that have been etched onto catalytic convertors using forensic pens. You can purchase kits that come with specific serial numbers that help trace stolen parts. 

And Finally…

Remember to be vigilant in your local neighbourhood. Help prevent crime by reporting anyone who you see peering under cars or skulking around. Many thieves are getting better at bypassing security systems – and there really is no substitute for looking out for your neighbours. After all you’d want them to do the same for you.

If the worst does happen, then don’t panic and remember there are steps you can take to claim on your insurance and notify the police.

The post Stop Your Catalytic Convertor from Being Stolen – Top Tips appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

­It’s important to extend the lifespan of all your car’s parts. However, as your gearbox can often be in constant use on those shorter urban journeys, it needs a little bit more TLC than other parts in the engine. And it’s worth bearing in mind that transmission problems are also painful and expensive. The last thing you want is gearbox failure, when you’re out on a larger road.

Stop the potential hurt with a little bit of vigilance, good driving and simple mechanical checks and procedures, to get a long and healthy lifespan out of your transmission:

Don’t Ride the Clutch

It can be tempting to leave your foot on the clutch to control speed as you change gears, particularly whilst cornering. It puts strain on the clutch pedal, as it isn’t properly engaged when you’re changing gear.  

Keep your Hands on the Wheel

It may be tempting to rest your hand on the gearstick, but even this simple act can put pressure on the selector fork, leading to premature wear and tear. First, you’ll hear aches and crunches coming from the box, before the problem can even impact gear changes. Both hands back on the wheel after you make a change is the simple answer.

When to Block Shift – And When to Not

As you’re accelerating to join a larger multi-lane road, it’s good to sometimes shift from second to fourth. Hitting the wrong gear for the engine however, such as landing fifth when you meant third, for instance puts strain on the bearings, wearing down the balls and cones that support the gearbox shaft. Over time this can lead to poor teeth alignment. Try to avoid situations where your gearbox might surprise you too, for instance if you’re pulling or carrying a heavy load and the engine has to do more work at lower gears.

Also try to change gear in a manual with a smooth action. Don’t race or pull away quickly. Know your route, and make the shift when you’re in the right spot and be decisive.

Brake the Pace

Avoid dropping gear to drop speed. Making that change, particularly at speed, delivers a big force to the lower gear wheel, which can degrade your transmission. Use the brakes where-ever possible, and try to let the inertia of the car slow it down as you approach big junctions on main roads.

The Harder they Drive – The Faster the Problem

Push your car around on the road with a certain edge and you’ll building intense heat from your sudden manoeuvres in the gearbox and engine. Constant acceleration and deceleration add to the issue – the gear cogs wear down as they strike each other with extra force.

Let the car’s momentum do the work. On city streets sticking to the lower speed limits is actually kinder on your car. And paying close attention allows you to anticipate moves and traffic earlier, helping you reduce sudden braking, and having to speed up again.

Services and Checks

Without question, your transmission fluid is top of the list when it comes to gearbox care. As the gearbox heats up so does the transmission fluid, and over time a little of it is lost to evaporation, and it picks up dirt too. Automatic drivers – get fluid changes around every 20k – 30k miles or 18 months and manual drivers are looking at an oil and clutch fluid change every 30k to 40k miles or around the 18 month window.

Old oil can be very dangerous to a manual gearbox. As the quality degrades, it can pick up sludge, sediment and debris, which can have a negative impact on the gearbox. You’ll feel this problem most in the winter, as changes become more forceful – giving you a sign you need new oil.

Reverse the Situation

Automatic drivers should always be sure that the car has come to rest, before shifting into reverse. Forcing the transmission to suddenly move from forward to reverse is an easy way of applying undue stress to the part. Pay particular attention, if you’ve recently swapped from a manual to an automatic. Realise that even though the two systems are similar – they don’t respond to quite the same treatment.

The Final Word

As you’ve probably realised by now, one of the biggest culprits of gearbox damage is your own use of the car. You want to be slick behind the wheel at all times? Then you won’t want to make a fool of yourself with any of these bad car habits. However, wear and tear is inevitable, however you drive, and your best course of action is to always pay attention to warning signs – listen to noises when you change, observe your behaviours, and sense the ease with which the shift is performed.

The post Looking After Your Gearbox and Transmission 101 appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

You’re sitting in your car, driving along. A flash goes off. You instantly know what it means as you quickly glance down to the speedometer. You know an automatic letter is winging its way out to you in the post. Could be a fine, points on your license. Or worse a court date.

Speed cameras are put in place to ensure drivers stick to the required speed limit. Drivers that go too fast are dangerous, as reaction times are reduced. However, there are many misconceptions about how these cameras work. So what is fact and what is firmly fantasy?

The Myths

These are some of the common stories you may have heard, concerning the behaviour of speed cameras, and in some instances, how they react to your driving. Are they mechanism of the camera, or simply urban myths? 

A speed camera is always on…

According to freedom of information disclosures in the UK, there is a fair proportion of speed cameras that are actually turned off at any time. However, this doesn’t mean that there’s any way you can tell which ones are active – meaning that even a powerless speed camera should act as a deterrent.

Only yellow speed cameras are legal

Unfortunately this one is false. Grey cameras are equally entitled to snap you and send out a fine as a yellow camera. Even though the government has made noises about painting all the cameras yellow.

Average speed cameras don’t actually work

In fact quite the opposite. Average speed cameras have proven to be more effective than standard speed cameras, as they track and monitor individual vehicles. Drivers are prevented from slowing down simply for the camera and speeding back up again immediately afterward.

There must be a flash…

Yes, the most common speed camera (often called the Gatso from Gatsometer BV camera) does like to flash when you’ve been caught speeding. This is not true of all cameras. But if you have been flashed, you are probably dealing with a Gatso, and there’s a good chance a letter is on it’s way to your registered

Speed cameras are a ‘nice little earner’

Some motorists claim that speed cameras are part of some kind of administrative war on drivers. There are even claims that local councils use cameras as a cash generator. However, the facts speaks for themselves. Speed is a contributing factor in over 25% of crashes. Travel faster and you’re not only more likely to crash, but your impact is more likely to prove fatal to your or other drivers.

Only from one side of the road

OK this one is a little bit trickier. Fixed speed cameras may only be pointed at one side of the road. This is not guaranteed however and should not be taken for granted. Mobile speed testing units are another matter entirely and radar guns are going to get you – no matter which direction you’re travelling in.

Only speed… Not smartphones

It used to be true that speed cameras were only focused on your speed. Older versions could not tell if you were misbehaving behind the wheel. 2019 changed all that with the introduction of yellow vulture cameras that are able to spot smoking, eating and smartphone use – as well as even telling whether you’re using a seatbelt. They work at night and hopefully will cut down smartphone use behind the wheel.

10% and then some…

There’s a story that speed cameras only clock you if you’re travelling in excess of your speed plus 10% of your speed, plus 2 mph. There have been noises from the police that they will only seek prosecutions from drivers travelling faster than this buffer. It doesn’t however mean that you can legally break the speed limit, and prosecuting such crimes is down to the police and the Crown Prosecution Service. Don’t take it for granted.

Beat the shutter speed

You have to be a little on the wild side to believe this one. You may have heard the theory that if you travel fast enough the camera won’t be able to clock you and you can get through scot-free. Don’t try this yourself as you’ll be looking at not only a fine, but perhaps even a ban for exceeding the upper safe limits according the area you’re in.

Horses and bikes are exempt

It’s true. Current camera technology is unable to track horses and bikes. Which may be a little disappointing to some readers who have to deal with a few Lycra louts behaving as they see fit on the road.

Time to ticket

You may have heard that if you’re caught by a camera, you must receive a ticket within a reasonable notice window for it to be valid. This is absolutely true. The ticket issuing authority must send you a notice of prosecution (NIP) within 14 days for it to be considered valid.

Speed courses

Are not a right. You may be allowed to take one if you are caught speeding by a camera, but don’t take it as a given. It’s down to the prosecuting authorities. And entirely at their discretion.

You can retake speed courses

Yes you can. As long as it’s been more than 3 years since you last took one. And again, it’s at the discretion of the local police authority. Don’t count on it and don’t use it as a get out of jail for half price card.

Insurance declarations

There is a myth that you don’t have to declare that you’ve been on a speed awareness course to your insurer. Well, of course you don’t. If you want your premium to be declared invalid when the insurer does find out (like when you’re claiming for an accident and you need to be paid out).

And Finally

Now that you’ve sped through this article, it’s important to remember that speed is not a game of cat and mouse with the authorities and their cameras. Remember that speed really does kill. Hitting someone at 40 miles an hour is likely to be fatal. The same collision at 20mph is not only less likely to occur in the first place, but also less likely to injure.

The post Speed Camera Behaviours: Mechanism or Myth appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

Sometimes you need to park on double yellow lines. Think this is always illegal? Think again. Most of the time you’ll find a ticket slapped on your car by a parking warden, giving you an automatic fine. However, there are some instances where parking on double yellows is actually allowed. Knowing your rights, can help you find a parking space when it’s difficult – or in an emergency – or even prevent you from having to pay a fine. So what is the actual law?

Penalties for Double Yellow Parking

Park on a double yellow line without a good reason, and you can expect to get a fine. Because parking is under the jurisdiction of local authorities, there is no UK national standard for fines. However, most adhere to the same policies. Infringe on the parking rules, and you’ll be looking at a standard £70 fine, which will be reduced by 50% if you pay it in under 14 days.

Legal Speak – What do Different Lines Mean?

You’ll find several different types of lines next the pavement. Each one gives drivers different information appertaining to the parking regulations for the road. These are as follows:

• Double white lines – no parking. However, cars may stop briefly to drop off or pick up passengers for the vehicle.

• Single yellow lines – check the signposted times. You’re only prohibited from parking on single yellows during set intervals – outside of these times, it’s perfectly legal to park on these street markings.

• Double red lines – normally only found in larger cities, such as on London’s north circular. The meaning is simple. No parking at any time.

• Single red lines – are similar to single yellow lines. Check signage to find the parking rules.

• Double yellow lines – no parking at any times. Expect for special circumstances, which we’ll go on to explore…

Why do we have Yellow Lines?

We have Ernest Marples, Minister of Transport from 1959 to 1964, to thank for the implementation of the double yellow lines that are now familiar to all motorists. This legislation was introduced under the Road Traffic Act in 1960, which also introduced MOT tests and traffic wardens. These road markings were created to quickly and effectively show motorists where they could and couldn’t park at a glance.

And When is it OK to Park on Double Yellows?

As we’ve mentioned, there are certain cases when the no parking side of the double yellow lines simply doesn’t apply as you’d expect. These are those situations:

• At Fixed Times

Check the signage nearby. If there are zonal or seasonal restrictions, it may be the case that you can park when these do not apply. Look for time plates or zone entry signs that should give you all the details you need to know. Of course, if you cannot see any of these signs, then you need to assume that the zone is a 24/7 restricted parking zone, and you’ll be looking at a fine if you contravene these regulations.

• Brief Pick Ups and Unloading

There are strict rules concerning dropping off goods from transport vehicles. Light loads are allowed to stop on the double yellows for a maximum of 20 minutes – a window that’s extended to 40 minutes for heavy goods vehicles. If you do decide to take advantage of this law, then be prepared to prove to an overzealous warden that you couldn’t park nearby, and carry the goods manually. And do remember, that you must also adhere to any specific zonal regulations or kerb dashes.

• Blue Badge Holders

If you have a blue badge, then you’re permitted under the standard UK law to park for a maximum of 3 hours on double yellow lines. However, you must have the badge displayed, alongside the time you arrived, or you could be fined as a normal driver. Additionally, there are certain areas and zones, where even blue badge holders cannot park on double yellows or obstruct other thoroughfares – so make sure you do the appropriate checks.

• Passenger Collection and Dropping Off

You can’t wait at the kerb, nor can you dawdle around whilst your passengers find their belongings, but under UK road law, you are allowed to drop someone off, or pick them up on double yellow lines. Make sure you’re fast though, as contravening this law or pushing the legislation to its limit could be interpreted as parking, which will end up getting you slapped with a ticket.

• Obstruction of Information

This one is quite tenuous and we wouldn’t recommend relying on it – but if the lines are obscured, for instance by flood waters or heavy snow, and the signage is missing, then you may have a case to claim that you couldn’t tell that you were parking in a double yellow restricted zone. Be prepared to put up a fight, and expect some resistance if you are fined.

Sundays and Bank Holiday Exceptions

There are those that claim you can park on double yellows on those long, slow bank holiday weekends. Others will tell you Sundays are another time when you are free to do as you please. However, truth of the matter is that both statements are false.  There may have been a time when wardens were so thin on the ground that you could get away with it – but we wouldn’t bank on it now.

Rules for Urban Clearways

Urban clearways are sections of road – usually on busy roads, without markings other than at the entry and exit points – where it is actually illegal to park, unless there’s an emergency. There will normally be information regarding the operational times of the clearway on the entrance signs. You are however allowed a small amount of grace time to pick up and drop off passengers as with standard yellow lines.

And Finally

Many parking dilemmas can be avoided by planning ahead, booking and arriving early. If you know you’re going to have to make a trip somewhere, check out the parking, find availability and if the area is congested – remember with the internet has an answer with rented parking spaces. Yes, there will always be costs involved, but it’s often easier to pay a bit more to avoid the hassle of a fine.

The post Parking on Double Yellows – Without Breaking the Law… appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

Have you been finding that your car won’t start in the mornings? Or perhaps when you’re out on the open road, you don’t seem to have the same levels of grunt and power as usual? One potential culprit could be your ignition coil, which helps turn the low voltage output of your battery into the little blue-white sparks that they are used to ignite the air fuel mixture in the engine.

What are the tell-tale signs that can give you an indication that the ignition coil is failing – giving you a chance to get to a mechanics, and avoid a breakdown on the open road?  

How does the Ignition Coil Work?

The ignition coil functions as part of your ignition system, alongside the switch battery, alternator, spark plugs and distributor. Like a kind of reverse system to the adaptor units that you might use in the home (transforming high voltages into low voltages), the coil boosts the 12V charge from your battery into a whopping 20KV to 40KV charge to ignite the petrol.

Open up the ignition coil, and you’ll find two windings around an iron core, often immersed in oil to keep the part cool. When the coil is powered up, the outer coil is flushed with charge, creating a magnetic field. This is then shut off, collapsing the field, and sending the charge to the more tightly wound inner coil, which subsequently transforms the charge into the super high voltages needed to create the sparks necessary to ignite the fuel in the pistons.

Ignition Coil Problem Signs

Be aware of the following issues. Each one could give you an indication that you’re having issues with your ignition coil. And if multiple problems occur at the same time, then whilst this will help you narrow down the cause, it’s also an indicator that you need to get the professionals in, pronto.

Stalling and Misfiring  

When the ignition coil is failing or experiencing problems, it often leads to pistons misfiring or simply not firing at all, as the charge is not delivered to ignite the petrol. If you’re noticing strange noises, accompanied by a poor response from the engine leading to jerks or vibration when idling, these can be tell-tale signs that the ignition coil is on its way out. In the worst case scenario this can lead to the car shutting down altogether, and stalling when you put your foot down on the gas.

Can’t Start the Car

If your car has only one ignition coil, then it may prevent the car from starting. If the battery is properly charged and all you seem to get when you try to turn the key or hit the button is a clicking sound, then you could be looking at a problematic ignition coil. If the spark plugs are not receiving the charge they need – then the engine will fail to fire up properly.

Less Miles to the Gallon

If your engine is not burning fuel properly, the engine will need more fuel to do the same amount of work, leading to decreased fuel efficiency. Additionally, when your ignition coil malfunctions, it can also create disparities in the oxygen sensor, sending the engine more fuel than is actually required. Be aware that putting this unspent fuel through your engine is also incredibly bad for the associated systems, and can cause damage to the catalytic convertor, which is often a very expensive part to replace.

Check Engine Light Illuminated on the Dash

Although the check engine light can alert you to a number of different problem situations – one of these could be a faulty or broken ignition coil. In such a situation, you have a couple of choices. Either get down to a mechanic who can perform an OBD-II check, or get a scanner so that you can check the codes yourself. Codes P0300 to P0312 indicate a misfiring, which could be the result of an ignition coil problem, whilst codes P0350 to P0362 are reserved on all systems to indicate ignition coil issues.

Backfiring

As we mentioned with the fuel economy problem, a faulty ignition coil will often lead to unspent fuel entering into the exhaust system. When this fuel comes into contact with the hot metal of the exhaust or catalytic convertor, it can instantly ignite and explode, creating a back-fire – a loud noise that booms out of the back of the car. Whether or not this is caused by an ignition coil problem, you should always get the issue investigated.

Oil Leak

The huge amounts of current and charge being transformed inside the ignition coil lead to heat dissipation. When the part is functioning normally, the oil usually helps get rid of this thermal energy. If the coil is broken however, this can lead to overheating, which will eventually crack the housing and the oil will start to leak out of the part.

Bad Spark Plugs

If you find that your spark plugs are faulty or worn out, then they can often draw more charge than is normally expected from the engine. This can often put too much strain on the ignition coil, damaging it over time. If you find you have spark plug problems, it’s definitely worth checking the ignition coil at the same time.

How to Avoid a Faulty Coil

Take the following precautions to keep your coil working properly and effectively:

• Regular spark plugs check – as we mentioned, faulty spark plugs can cause excessive drain on the coil, which will lead to it prematurely degrading. Keep the plugs in good order to prevent this from happening.

• Inspect the coil casing – to make sure there are no oil leaks and pay particular attention to the wires connecting the coil to the electrical system. These can often give an early sign of problems as they will appear toasted if there has been a current drain problem.

• Regular service checks – pay attention to the manufacturer’s instructions, getting regular maintenance to ensure that your car is in good working order. 

And Finally

Like all parts in your car, the ignition coil will degrade eventually. The huge amounts of charge and current that are constantly stored and discharged through the part take their toll and replacement becomes an inevitability. With a modicum of mechanical knowledge you can change the part yourself – or get down to a professional garage.

The post 7 Signs that Your Car has Ignition Coil Problems appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.