A full chimney system is an architectural ventilation structure made of masonry, metal, and clay. It was built with the intention of isolating toxic fumes and smoke from the main living area. An entire chimney is made up of a foundation, facing, damper casing, mantle, damper, clean out door, ash pit and cover, firebox, lintel, throat, smoke chamber, flue, flue tile liners, masonry as well as the stack that protrudes from the roof line with its flashing, crown and gap. There is also the brickwork that surrounds the chimney and protrudes into the living space area, called the chimney breast.

Removing a chimney is not necessarily considered to be work that needs to be done by a chimney removal expert. However, when you are removing only a portion of the chimney and leaving part of it in place, it is very important that you consult with a structural engineer as well as someone versed in understanding proper ventilation if you want to continue using a portion of the chimney.

Be absolutely certain that any brickwork or venting systems you are removing is not going to compromise the structural strength and support of your home and that toxic fumes will not back up into your living space. Regardless of whether you tackle it yourself or have the entire chimney removal work done by an expert, you will need to make sure you have the proper permissions in place before demolition and reconstruction begin. If you are unsure of any of the steps, it’s best to consult with someone who knows.

Before the interior chimney can be removed safely, you will need to make sure the chimney stack is well supported. Gallows brackets should never be recommended in structures that are more than two storeys high, the stack is completely vertical, or if the chimney is more than 1200mm and projects more than 340mm into the room. If any of these conditions are present, steel beams would be the best method to make sure the stack is secured well. If there is a neighbouring chimney that shares a wall or part of the attic with your living space, make sure the wall is still solidly intact and that the shared wall is a minimum of 215 mm thick in good.

The most trusting method and most durable with the strongest support, use steel beams. These I-beams offer the most reliable strength since they can span narrow or wide gaps with one solid support beam. It may cost a bit more to begin with, but the steel beam will leave you with a peace of mind and no weak connection points that could potentially give way.

Sometimes, the home owner wants to remove a chimney breast at one storey of the house but keep a working chimney on another storey. The most important considerations for this type of renovation will be making sure the upper storeys are properly supported while ensuring proper ventilation at the storey left for use. Also keep in mind that whatever storey you remove the chimney breast from will then require patch work, possibly new dry wall, plaster, painting, and new flooring before you will be able to use the new added space.

Never be afraid to consult with an expert to make sure your partial chimney removal project is done right. It could affect the structural strength of your entire home. If any part of the chimney is going to be retained for use, you will also need to make sure that safety measures are taken and that the structure is well supported. Additional concerns include making sure the building regulations comply with fire safety, sound insulation, ventilation, and damp prevention to avoid damage from mold or soot staining.

Not everyone lives in a stand-alone, private property home. Many share at least one wall with a neighbouring property. These are called semi-detached or terrace properties. In semi-detached or terrace properties, chimney breasts are typically built back to back in between the two or more individual units which share at least one wall. As many as four fireplaces in one property might be built as two rows of four chimney pots on the stack.

All of this is shared by the adjoining properties below and will require following the Party Wall Act of 1996 if you plan to do any work on any section of the chimney that shares a wall with your neighbour. The reason for this is simply because any work you do inside your home may very well impact the living space of those dwelling on the other side of at least one wall.

When it comes to chimney work, this could also mean soot and debris might come tumbling down into their living space through their chimney breast. And, of course, if they are still using their chimney for fires, you will need to make sure the work is done properly so as not to leave any potential gas or smoke leaks along the structure.

The most common problem that could arise when you go to take out the chimney breast is that you discover it is actually built into the structure of the home, and removing it could cause a serious hazard since load bearing walls may be depending upon it to stay upright. Before you start chipping away at those bricks, it’s important to first make sure suitable support beams are ready to be incorporated to support and carry any weight above.

A lack of support could potentially mean that the ceilings, walls, and roof come crashing in on you. This would be catastrophic and leave you with a much bigger project of a mess to clean up and renovate. It could also be very dangerous if anyone is in the rooms when they collapse. So, it is a very important step to consider all of the necessary support options before removing a single brick.

After the chimney breast has been removed and the property is sufficiently supported, there will be a hole left behind where the bricks and fireplace opening once stood. This hole was once used to host a fire but will now become open space to redecorate as you desire. But, first, before you can begin to redecorate and reclaim your space, you will need to patch up the floor and the wall sealing off the demolition holes left behind. The clean up part may be a bit overwhelming with the debris and destruction left in its wake that it seems like more work than the actual chimney breast removal part. But, it is a very important step in the renovation project and quite often will be the most enjoyable part.

Hiring a structural engineer before the job is done is going to be money well spent. Their services will ensure the safe removal of the chimney breast. They will inspect and make recommendations about what type of supports are needed. This professional will also submit their designs to the local building control office for approval.

Upon completion, a Building Control Officer will insect the work and issue a completion certificate that you will need to keep with all of your important papers of deeds and Land Registry documents for the home as you will need them if you decide to sell your home at some later date.

Regardless of whether or not any special permissions need to be granted, you will always need to comply with building regulations and rules. You may feel like this step is not necessary but will be glad you followed the rules if you ever decide to sell your property at some later date.

These building rules and regulations are set in place to ensure the structural strength of the building, fire safety, sound insulation, maintenance of any neighbour’s chimney, damp prevention, and ventilation to rooms.

They are designed for the safety of the people who dwell inside the building. When these people are your family and those you love, you will realise the importance of such guidelines and will not hesitate to follow the rules from the start to comply with any building regulations in your area.

Chimneys are intended to safely allow fumes to vent from the house. So, take extra safety precautions when working with chimney breast removal. The safety of any gas appliance that uses a party wall flue should be considered. Consult a Gas Safe Engineer to get something in writing. Also, if the chimney stack is part of the removal below the roof line, roofing timbers will need to be extended to fill in the gap left behind and properly covered to ensure there is no leaking from rain or damp issues that later arise.

As always, take care to wear safety gear and clothing. Chimney breast removal is a messy job, kicking up soot and debris as well as potentially hazardous bricks falling. So, always wear proper safety gear and construction work clothing.

Safety must be the first thing to set into place before beginning any work on the roof or chimney stack. The dangers of taking the stack down extend beyond the possibility of it falling in through the roof and into the house. You must also consider anyone who may be helping with the work from below or anyone who may pass by at the ground level while you’re working.

Also, make sure the ladder or scaffolding is not resting against anything that could shift while working, make sure the bricks and debris does not fall down the chimney flue opening, and be careful to properly haul off debris.

If you hire a contractor to do the work, they will make sure the area is secured and safe for the work to begin. Trying to learn how to remove chimney below roof line yourself can be done, but be extra careful to first make sure you have taken every step toward safety. It may sound like common sense, but it’s best to put safety first.

The next section to make sure is secure will be the scaffolding or ladder where you will be standing to work at the roof line. Many people don’t think it completely through when they rest the ladder against the building only to discover that it is wobbly and dangerous.

Make sure neither the ladder nor the scaffolding is leaning against the chimney stack that you are removing, since as you remove the stack the ladder will begin to shift if it was previously resting against it.

Also, do not rest the ladder or attach scaffolding to the gutters as they could give way as well. You don’t want the actual support system that is holding you up, so you are be able to reach the roof line to work on the chimney stack removal, to collapse. If it does, you will come down with it or be left stranded on the roof top.

At the very top of the chimney stack is a venting release opening called a pot. Often this is made of clay but is held tightly in place with a solid concrete casting block. Once the area is completely secured and you are wearing proper safety clothing and gear, begin chipping away at the top of the stack until you are able to slide out the center pot. This may require tapping the top of the pot firmly in an outside direction with a hammer and then splitting the concrete cast that was holding it in place with a special tool to slide into the cracks to lift off the concrete and remove the pot inside.

Now that all of the bricks have been removed down to the roof line, you will encounter the flashing which was put in place as a seal around the stack to keep water from leaking through the roof. Now that the chimney stack is gone, and there is a big hole in the roof, you will need to close off the opening, so begin to strip off the old flashing around the edges that is no longer needed of what once held the chimney in place. Strip off the flashing and surrounding roof tiles as well as any timber that is no longer needed or is damaged or rotten especially if the roof had previously leaked around the flashing.

Once you remove the chimney below the roof line successfully, it’s time to make sure the inside roof line in the attic is properly secured so it doesn’t come crashing in through the house. This may require replacing some joists with steel beams to make sure it is as secure as possible with no future issues.

If your chimney removal work involves further chimney removal, continue down brick by brick from the top down making sure everything is properly shored up and secured with strength as you go.

One of the most impressive ways to add the desired space to a back kitchen is to replace the rear wall with a bi-fold door that looks like a wall of windows when closed. While it serves as a back wall when closed and sealed, it still lets in plenty of natural lighting. When you need the extra space for entertaining or simply to enjoy the backyard, open up and fold back the bi-fold doors out of the way. Now, you or your guests will be able to enjoy the extended space especially on a nice, sunny or cool, fall day. 

Likewise, don’t feel like your new home rear extension needs to be ultra contemporary. Though, this is your chance to add your own flare of personality to your home, you will also want to think about down the road should you need to sell the house. While simply extending the existing walls is the most streamlined approach, there is no reason why you can’t get creative and throw in your own design. Angle a wall to work around landscaping, or just to give your home extension an interesting look.

Your choices here are almost limitless, so long as you stay within building codes and regulations. Knock out the entire width of the back of your house for your home extension, or select a small portion for adding on. The more back wall you redesign, the more added space you are going to get for inside living.  

If you are fortunate to have a rear-entry garage, move out the car and transform this already existing space into an extra bedroom or living room. Of course, the main downside to this option is that you no longer have an indoor place to park your car. But, depending on how much property you have, you may even be able to build on a covered carport area next to the house.

A garage is an often overlooked spot that is easily able to be remodeled for more space to give you an easy option for single storey extension plans. It is already mostly enclosed, only needing to fill in the wall where the garage door now exists. From there, experienced contractors will be able to easily help you design a floor plan to take over the garage and reclaim it for additional inside space you need.

The best time to waterproof your basement is when the home or its foundation is being built. During the construction of a new house, the builder will be able to move around more freely and access nooks and crevises that will be more difficult to get to once the main structure of the upper home is set in place.

This being said, while it’s easier to do the basement tanking while the home is originally being built, it’s not impossible to get it done on an pre-built home or even on a very old structure. It just makes it a bit more tricky with more obstacles to work around. The more difficult the space is to get to, the more costly and time consuming the waterproofing job will become.

Exterior basement tanking is most efficiently installed when the structure is under construction. The idea is to prevent water entering the basement through the tiny openings where the walls meet at the joint or from seeping through the wall itself. Since bricks or stones are naturally porous and have a tendency to absorb water, there is usually a cavity between the inner and outer facings to help prevent water seeping into the interior.

Additionally, rooms that are built underground also absorb moisture from the earth that surrounds it. There are various ways to waterproof on the outside. Most methods use a membrane that is wrapped around the concrete and installed before the cement is poured to create a tank. The outside edges are protected from water by then installing a drainage system of pipes and gravel that help to carry away the water.

Some of the main advantages to water tanking your basement include gaining a dry, mould and mildew free space inside your home. Other benefits are that you can rest easy knowing that your possessions won’t get damaged, you will gain livable space, and  avoid structural damage if you waterproof your basement or cellar.

The structural damage that can occur from water built up can be costly and dangerous. Wet wood is more likely to create serious structural issues than dry wood. For instance, termites require moisture to thrive and cause a great deal of damage in already water damaged wood. Wet wood is also more likely to rot. Ultimately, the new dry inside space will allow you a better quality of life and increase your overall home’s value.

One of the most important considerations is the condition of the existing structure of the basement. For the waterproofing to be effective, you must start with a good foundation. If the foundation is a mess, the new waterproofing is not going to have a smooth surface to seal onto, the end result will be more damage to repair.

Are you planning on doing basement tanking? If not, it is worth looking into to ensure your home is kept free of water or a breeding ground for mould.

Follow these amazing tips on basement tanking detail and methods and get to know everything you can, including the advantages and cost, before you start your basement tanking project. The end result will be a nice, dry area inside your home that you  can now use for livable space that you would not be able to enjoy without the confidence of water tanking.

When you understand the concepts behind work that needs to be done to your home, it’s easier to accept the process of fixing it or taking steps to prevent it from happening in the first place. Sometimes foundation or basement waterproofing is called tanking. It is a way to keep water out of your basement and involves putting a render of waterproof cement or slurry on internal walls or wrapping the walls with waterproofing materials during construction to form a membrane. It also must include some type of drainage system to prevent future water build up.

One basement waterproofing method is to do so from the outside. This method is most commonly used during the construction process after the foundation has been laid. Most external methods use a waterproof membrane that is wrapped around the concrete and installed before the cement is poured, after the forms have been removed. It creates a sort of a water-tight tank, only instead of filling it with water to keep in the water, like a fish tank, this tank forms a seal to keep water out. One popular exterior method is to use either a membrane or a cementitious render on the outside walls of the foundation.

Waterproofing basement walls from inside is done similarly to the exterior method. The main difference is that it is, instead, done from the inside of the basement. Various methods can be used, most involve rolling or brushing on a sealant. This method is the most modern way to seal out water. It also will involve some drainage or sump pump system to remove water and prevent ground water pressure from building up and pressing against the foundation.

Another form of interior waterproofing is to patch cracks before they become a problem. A water sealant can sometimes be injected sufficiently into the cracks in your basement walls or floors. This epoxy will expand to fill in the gaps and prevent a protective seal to keep water from leaking through the cracks.

Drainage is another very important element in keeping water out of basements. During construction, drainage pipes are installed and then surrounded with gravel. These pipes help to carry the water away from the cement so that rain and soil dampness doesn’t build up and create pressure against the newly poured walls. Sometimes this outside drainage system is called a French drain. After the home has been built, drainage can be obtained by drawing the water out through a hole in one of the corners where a sump pump has been installed. The sump pump pulls the water through a pipe and then drains it out of the basement or underground into the yard away from the home.

Whatever drainage method is used, the point is to divert water away from the basement walls and floors. Some options for drainage with interior waterproofing include using a cavity wall membrane, a DryTrak drainage system, a WaterGuard drainage system, and a sump pump or pit. The most important function is for the drains to remain free of debris so they remain free flowing and not clogged. Otherwise, they will defeat the purpose of pulling water away from your structure and create an entirely new problem. These are the most important things to know when it comes to how basement waterproofing works.

It’s easier to prevent than it is to clean up the mess left behind. When it comes to basement waterproofing, it is always best to consult an expert to make sure the work is done properly. Find a waterproofing company who understands the problems that foundations, basements, and cellars face when it comes to properly waterproofing.

The process may sound easy in theory, but when you get started trying to create a space that will stay reliably dry, it can become a tedious, costly and time consuming project. Not only that, but the waterproofing materials available in hardware stores are not of the same calibre than those made available to contractors for use. Always ask to see pictures of their finished work projects, and if you can, visit the work site before having any work done on your own home. There is a whole lot about how interior, exterior basement waterproofing systems works. The expert team at Diligent Development have answered them all with this helpful guide.

Interior methods are also best done during construction but may also be done without a great deal of effort after the house has been built. Additionally, there is a waterproofing crack injection method that fills in cracks with an epoxy that expands to keep water out. The crack injection method is generally only used as a quick stop-gap fix and not as the best permanent solution.

A French drain system does a good job in allowing water to properly drain away from the foundation. It is sometimes called a curtain drain or a footing drain. There are also interior drainage methods that can be implemented that uses drainage in the basement to send the water toward a sump pump, which will then pull the water far away from the inside basement and outside foundation to drain it.

Technically any barrier for waterproofing is a membrane. Select rigid panels that come with matching connecting pieces to form a moisture barrier system that is ideal for waterproofing basements. There are also flexible sheets that are used to wrap the foundation with. When these waterproofing membranes are installed during the home’s construction, it is done much easier than after the building is complete. Check a structural waterproofing membrane in action. 

Some liquid product sealants can be applied using a sprayer. As a DIY project, you can find liquid waterproofing products at hardware stores or water sealant distributors. The quality of these locally sold products may not be of the higher quality than the products a professional building contractor will offer. The application process may require you purchase and use gloves, masks or other safety gear you may not already have on hand. It may also require some prep work on your part. When hired to do the job, a professional will include all of these considerations in the price.

Speak with the experts at Diligent Development who share their views above on what the best basement waterproofing system is. Both interior basement waterproofing systems, and exterior included as well as what the best basement drainage system could is for your home. Check one of their recent Basement Waterproofing Case study in Cartford, London to see how they operate. You can also be assured that these professionals will always use the best basement waterproofing products available to match your home’s specific needs and fit within your budget without skimping on quality.

The average cost to renovate a home is going to depend on how much you want done, how big the rooms are that need contract work, and whether or not major plumbing, electrical, gas, or load-bearing walls are involved. For larger homes, this price tag will naturally go up. Renovations made to older homes are going to cost even more, as much as between 30 to 50 percent more, since a lot of the wiring, plumbing, chimney stacks, or other extensive work will probably need to be done. Typically, expect to spend at least £1,000 per square meter on a home renovation project.

 There are a few extras that many don’t think about. One of these essential budget items is insurance. Don’t forget to budget in the cost of insurance. You may think it’s a gamble and not worth the effort, but if something goes wrong you will wish you had thought to include it in the overall budget price.

Renovation insurance is based on the estimated value of your home after the renovations are complete and a few other factors and typically ranges between £600–£1,200. Regular building insurance won’t always cover large renovations. If you are making significant structural changes or are leaving your home vacant for a lengthy amount of time during renovation, you will need specialist renovation insurance. Also consider taking out an insurance policy to cover items that could become damaged during the renovation work.

Once you have your list of priorities, it’s time to create a detailed renovation plan complete with amounts and estimates for cost as well as some seemingly smaller details that could add up to put you over budget. Use this list when you interview each contractor, and begin to create a spreadsheet that lays out your home renovation priorities and the estimated costs.

Include price of labour and materials. Labour costs is going to most likely account for between 20 to 35 percent of the overall budget. It’s one thing to see a picture of renovation features, but it’s another to actually choose the specific items you want. Select the items you want by choosing the actual fixture, knobs, faucets, paint, tile, flooring, or finishes to get a more precise cost estimate.

Once you have your heart set on a home renovation plan, the last thing you will want to happen is to discover you simply don’t have the funds to pay for it. Save yourself the heartache and embarrassment by first making sure you have the needed money. Before finalizing any budget, it’s a good idea to make sure the money is actually there and available for you to spend. If you don’t already have it saved up in your bank account, you will need to seek financing through a loan or credit cards. Do this before finding a contractor and signing work orders that commit you to payments. Obtain pre-approval through a bank first if you are going to need to take out a home improvement loan.

 Assuming that your house is a frame construction and not masonry, you may be able to determine how intricately the chimney has been built with the structure of your home by knocking on the inside wall above the fireplace but below the ceiling. When you knock, do you hear a hollow sound. Or, does it sound more solid? If you can’t tell for sure, you will need to get a professional contractor who will be able to determine the difference. Even so, the expert might still need to punch a few holes in your wall before being able to know for sure. There is a specific sound and feel to knowing which often requires skill.

A more challenging, lengthy, and costly job will need to done if the chimney was built into the structure of the home. Determine this by knocking like you did before. If there is solid masonry when you or the expert taps on the wall or ceiling, the house was most likely framed up to the masonry chimney running not only on the outside of the house but also possibly even partially supporting walls, floors, and ceilings. If this is the case, the chimney removal is going to be a lot more extensive work since it is possible that without the framed wall, the chimney may be holding up the first storey ceiling rafters, the roof, or the second storey joists, all a structural part of the building. At the very least, when it has been removed there will be a large hole left behind that will need to be framed and filled in.

Taking down a chimney is hard physical work. It’s not necessarily a job for the weak and certainly not for young children. Properly removing an entire chimney is hard physical labor. Those who do construction for a living have, over time, built themselves up to being able to handle the strain. If you are doing this chimney project as a DIY, be prepared to have sore muscles for a few days after work is complete.

Be sure to follow ladder safety rules as you rest upon the ladder for support while you move down from the roof line. To be extra safe, tie the ladder to a sturdy support structure, and wear a safety harness when working on the roof. Don’t ever place the weight of the support ladders that you will be standing on and relying on to hold you up a storey or two directly against the gutters, chimney stack, or the exterior chimney that is coming down. If you do, chances are you will come tumbling down with it.

Removing an old, deteriorating or unused, outdated chimney that is seldom if ever used for fires can give your home a huge makeover. When the chimney has come down, you will be surprised at the huge amount of design options and limitless possibilities your home will now reveal, not to mention the added floor and wall space. But, it must be done well. The extra space you gain on the inside and the fresh new look you gain on the outside will be very well worth the work and expense, but you will first need to patch up and repaint and such.