David Cheetham Gardens

Garden Tips for July

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 14:28:00 +0000

July is the season of high summer when the garden really comes alive, so you’re either going to have weeks of enjoyment over the coming months or weeks of back breaking work trying to tame and control the it.

The Garden
• Be water-wise, water your plants only and during the cooler parts of the day to avoid absorption and possible scorching. In this warm time of year, regular watering or spraying is essential for abundant flowers and growth so never let the soil dry out too much.
• Flowering shrubs can be pruned as soon as they have flowered. Cut back branches that have flowered to a new shoot. If there is no new shoot, cut them back to the ground.
• All potted plants need watering daily and in very warm weather, perhaps even twice a day. Don’t forget your hanging baskets, as evaporation is much greater and they will dry out faster than any other planters
• Hanging baskets need soluble plant food each week. Annuals, in particular, need a lot of nutrients whether in baskets, tubs or pots.
• Deadhead plants after flowering as this will encourage them to flower again later in the season.
• Hoe borders regularly to keep down weeds and if there are getting out of control you could put down a mulch to help.
• Shade greenhouses to keep them cool.
• Keep an eye out for blackspot and mildew especially on roses. However, if you are going to spray them, try to spray during the evening, when most insect activity has stopped
• This is the time to shorten the new shoots of Wisteria that are not required for the framework, to about six inches in length.
• If you haven't added any fertilizer to your borders, it is not too late to do so.
• Don't wait to support and tie-up tall growing plant as an unexpected downpour can easily flatten them.
• Provide supports for any tall plants/shrubs such as Dahlias, Gladioli

The Lawn
• The lawn needs regular mowing this month. During long sunny spells the grass should not be cut too short otherwise it is in danger of scorching (turning yellow).
• For the best result, give your lawn some fertilizer every month. Choose an overcast day for this, again to prevent yellow patches.
• In long dry spells, your lawn will need regular spraying. Give it a good soak (a few hours) once a week. This is much more effective than 15 minutes every day.

Fruit and Veg
• If you have pruned your fruit trees during the winter, by May and June lots of suckers (small twigs that grow straight up) will have appeared. Indeed, where you have pruned particularly hard, entire brooms can spring up. These shoots take up a lot of water and nutrients that could be used better elsewhere. July is good time to remove these suckers.
• Treat your fruit trees to some extra trace elements and minerals this month such as seaweed extract.
• Thin out fruits from Apple, Pear and Plum. By removing the smaller ones the remaining fruits get a better chance to develop.
• Start sowing summer vegetables fennel and, looking ahead to winter, different kinds of cabbage
• Gives strawberries a weekly dose of soluble fertilizer high in potassium. When picking ripe strawberries pick the crown attached as the fruits will keep longer and the plants are less prone to fungal infections.
• Herbs like dill, parsley and thyme can be picked and dried or frozen into ice cubes.

Containers & Hanging Baskets

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 23 May 2010 10:01:00 +0000

Containers & Hanging Baskets

Many plants are ideally suited for growing in all sorts of containers, although the most often used are bedding plants.However, plants such as shrubs, herbaceous perennials, herbs, climbers, alpines, bulbs, heathers, roses, dwarf fruit trees,strawberries and conifers should also be considered, either on their own or in combinations to provide all year round colour.

Containers are easy to maintain and can be moved around to give a fresh look to the garden. Select a good balance of upright and trailing plants according to the shape and size of the container. Remember that Summer containers can be replanted for Autumn and Winter colour.

Wherever you use them, containers will help break up the harsh lines of patios, walls, steps and paths.

A wide range of containers are available including:

Hanging Baskets
Half Barrels
Pots
Window Boxes
Troughs
Mangers
Wall Baskets

Plant recommendations

•containers in sun
•containers in shade

In a selection of materials such as clay, stone, terracotta, wood, plastic and wire. The shape and size of the container will influence the choice of plants, with larger plants such as shrubs and climbers requiring more space for the roots to grow.

Planting your container

1. Place small stones or broken pieces of polystyrene or pots onto the bottom of the container to cover the drainage holes.
2. Lining the sides of the container with bubble plastic will protect plants against frost and reduce water loss.
3. Add good quality compost so that plants, when placed on it, are about 3cm (1in) below the rim of their container. Work the potting compost in around the sides of the plants and level off. Make sure you water well.
4. Keep the container off the ground by placing small blocks underneath. This will prevent a vacuum and ensure proper drainage.

Looking after your containers

Never allow containers to dry out. It may be necessary to water in early morning and evening in hot weather and they must be watered in Autumn and Winter if required.

Feed regularly during Spring and Summer. Use a top dressing of granular fertiliser in Spring, followed by a liquid feed once week during the main growing season.

Remove dead flower heads, weed regularly and keep a close watch for pests and diseases which should be treated according to manufacturer's control recommendations.

Hanging baskets

These provide eye-catching displays and help to break up harsh architectural lines. Use plenty of trailing plants so that the base of the basket is well covered once established. Use wall-mounted baskets if hanging space is not available.

How to plant a hanging basket

1. Use a bucket or pot for support while planting and make sure plants are well-watered before starting. Place a plastic disc or old saucer on top of the moss in the base before adding compost to help retain moisture.

2. Line the basket with moss to halfway up the sides, or use a liner. Half fill with potting compost containing water retaining granules and slow-release fertiliser which should last the whole growing season.

3. Plant three foliage and three flowering plants through the sides of the basket. If using moss, then line to the top of the basket and fill to the top with compost.

4. Plant a tall plant in the centre andplant three foliage and threeflowering plants round the top edge of the basket. For larger baskets simply use more plants.

5. Once planted, water thoroughly, allow to soak and repeat. Protect from strong sunlight for two or three days and protect from frost. Dead-head regularly, water frequently and liquid feed towards the end of the flowering season.

Common Pond Fish

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 23 May 2010 09:53:00 +0000

Goldfish
Easiest of the fish to keep, being a member of the carp family they can vary in colour from a red to very light gold. They will breed easily producing black young that may turn gold later in the right conditions. Can grow to 30cm but in normal conditions they will probably reach 20cm.

Koi
These most spectacular fish, can reach 60 cm to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft) in size and come in an array of colours and patterns. Unfortunately really only suitable for larger purpose-built ponds with a depth of at least 0.9m (3 ft).

Golden Orfe
Should not be kept in smaller ponds or where there is no pump, as they require plenty of oxygen. Orfe can grow up to 40 cm ( 18 in) and prefer to be kept in shoals. They are useful surface feeders, keeping the insect population in check. Blue Orfe are sometimes available.

Sarasa Comets
From the same family as goldfish, but have bright red patches on a white background.

Shubunkins
Similar to goldfish they come in a multitude of colours including reds, greys and blues.

Tench
Very useful bottom feeders, clearing up any uneaten food etc. Once introduced into a pond it’ s likely you will not see them often as they stay at the bottom and their olive or green/brown colour tends to blend them into the background. A golden variety is often available.

Small Spaces

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 23 May 2010 09:45:00 +0000

The way we live is for every changing and space is becoming an ever-sought after commodity and therefore our gardens, now more than ever, have become an integrated part of our living space.

But, what are the limitations for a small garden? Most of us do not have rolling acres of land on which to carefully calculate the width versus length of our perennial borders. And, realistically many of us don’t have the time or the inclination to undertake the maintenance these acres of gardens would need.

Creating an outdoor area in a small space has its limits, but it should not be limiting. In a small garden, everything is in the detail. You can keep on top of maintenance, while still having time to sit and enjoy the space. In fact, many small gardens are designed around entertaining and relaxing, rather then the need to nurture masses of plants.

Whatever your reasons for having a small garden, there is no reason it cannot be a well designed show stopper. Virtually any plant or garden style can be adapted into a small garden space. The principles of strong garden design still apply, but they may have to be tweaked slightly.

Main Design Challenges
• The entire garden can be viewed as a whole
• Limited space for ‘hidden’ turns and spaces
• The need to make strong choices and overcome the inclination to buy on impulse
• Colour should be limited to provide cohesion and less is definitely more when space is limited.
• Compensate colour with a greater range and variety of textures
• Textural contrast will help blend the plant material and allow the garden to flow
• Every plant or feature will need to serve a purpose. There is no room for wasted space or underperforming plants. Plants should offer at least two seasons of interest

Small Garden Bonuses
• Design can be easier when you can take in the whole picture at once.
• It takes fewer plants to make a dramatic effect.
• Gardeners get to know every space and plant in a small garden. Any plant that is out of place or not thriving can be spotted and corrected quickly.
• Small gardens lend themselves to being enclosed. For example an evergreen or flowering hedge will give the illusion of a secret garden. A simple low boxwood edge transforms a small garden into a formal garden. Landscaping and fencing enclose and define a space for entertaining or children’s play.
• A small space garden lends itself to personal expression. Smaller gardens are extensions of you and your home and speak volumes about your sensibilities and tastes. But, if your tastes should change, it’s much easier to revamp a small garden.

Gardening Tips for May – From the Spanish Potting Shed

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sat, 01 May 2010 10:41:00 +0000

Although I'm in a flurry of activity for the forthcoming Chelsea Flower Show, I am writing this mopnth's tips from the seclusion of Finca Lucia in Andalucia.

Now on my travels to this delightful haven of peace and tranquillity (volcanic ash permitting) I’ve browsed across the Spanish Gardening Forum, hot topics for this month include; “how is your orange crop, flowering cacti and the tales of the poor palms”. Reading through the comments on orange crops I can see that gardening is taken just as seriously here as it is in the UK.

But back to our green and pleasant pastures. Now that most of the country is enjoying a period of prolonged warmth (not really heat) we should be seeing changes throughout the garden.

Weed Control
And as we experience the start of the growing seasons so cometh the weeds. Regular hoeing will keep the weeds down and stop them from becoming too big and overpowering. Also, putting down a layer of mulch will help to stop further weeds but remember to water well first, as this helps to seal in the moisture around your plants.

Lawns
Your grass will be growing well now so you'll need to keep on top of the mowing ideally on a weekly basis. Avoid scalping the lawn by keeping the blades relatively high, but each time you do mow it, lower them slightly. This is also a great time to feed established lawns and don’t forget to water them during the prolonged hot spells before they start going brown.

Vegetable Plot
This month is the perfect time to sow runner and French beans outside and if you sowed leeks earlier, these can go out too. Marrows and courgettes are tender plants so protect them from any late frosts and keep them well watered throughout the summer. If you don’t have room for a vegetable plot then don’t forget you can grow a wide selection of veg favourites and berries in pots and containers.

Flower Beds & Boarders
Stake your flowers now as this makes them easier to train.
Begin cutting and deadheading as soon as blossoming begins and for late blooming bulbs be sure to take off the bloom and leave plenty of leaf so the bulb can store energy for next season.
With so much available in sow direct seed, you should try and plan successive sowings of your favourite flowers. Have a look around your local garden centres for seeds or buy them direct on-line.
Plan to add edging plants to borders and walkways. Good annuals include ageratum, alyssum, dusty miller, petunias, lobelia, phlox, portulaca, marigolds, nasturiums, pansies and verbena.
And, don’t forget your window boxes and planters. Mix flowers, herbs and a little ivy for a beautiful display.

Happy Gardening

Organic Pest Control

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 17:30:00 +0000

The clocks have gone back and spring has truly sprung. It’s going to be a busy month for the avid gardener and also that growing list of unwanted garden pests, so a little planning now will go a long way.

But, before you call in an air strike from a canister loaded with noxious chemicals, why not think about organic methods of pest control? Because, let’s face it, plants managed to survive before pesticides.

Consider the natural balance of nature, so a healthy plant will have its own defences against attack. Therefore, taking care of your plants will make them stronger. Move things around as a number of pests hibernate at the base of existing plants of winter. And, bring in reinforcements by encouraging other predators such as toads, birds, beetles and even hedgehogs to take care of the pest problem.

Usual Suspects

Slugs and Snails
Well we all know what they look like and most of us will have them in the garden at some point. The little grey ones do the worst damage as the really big ones prefer dead organic matter. You can pick them off, sprinkle them with salt or use a selection of traps filled with beer or fermenting fruit juice.

White Fly
Although this is mainly a greenhouse pest, it's certainly worth a mention because it’s hard to get rid of. An attack reduces plant vitality, causes premature leaf drop, and may result in the loss of your favourite plant. Provided you don't have a major invasion, you could allow a tiny parasitic wasp, called Encarsia Formosa, to come to the rescue. But, if you've got a major outbreak you'll need to take more drastic action and give your conservatory or greenhouse a really good clean.

Aphids
Similar in many ways to the white fly except they attack a much wider range of plants and come in a variety of colours. There are many things you can do to fight aphids. Including, washing them off with a hose, spraying with a soap solution or attract other insects such as ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings.

And finally don’t forget about companion planting. It isn't just about pest control. By combining plants carefully, plants can help each other in terms of providing nutrients in the soil, offering protection from wind or sun and also, by attracting beneficial pests or acting as a decoy for harmful ones.

Reasons for being Evergreen

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 11 Apr 2010 07:34:00 +0000

In warm tropical regions, most rainforest plants are evergreen, replacing their leaves gradually throughout the year as the leaves age and fall, whereas species growing in seasonally arid climates may be either evergreen or deciduous. Most warm temperate climate plants are also evergreen. In cool temperate climates, fewer plants are evergreen, with a predominance of conifers, as few evergreen broadleaf plants can tolerate severe cold below about -25°C.

In areas where there is a reason for being deciduous (i.e. a cold season or dry season), being evergreen is usually an adaptation to low nutrient levels. Deciduous trees lose nutrients whenever they lose their leaves, and they must replenish these nutrients from the soil to build new leaves. When few nutrients are available, evergreen plants have an advantage, even though their leaves and needles must be able to withstand cold and/or drought, and are thus less efficient at photosynthesis. In warmer areas, species such as some pines and cypresses grow on poor soils and disturbed ground. In Rhododendron, a genus with many broadleaf evergreens, several species grow in mature forests but are usually found on highly acidic soil where the nutrients are less available to plants. In taiga or boreal forests, it is too cold for the organic matter in the soil to decay rapidly, so the nutrients in the soil are less easily available to plants, thus favouring evergreens.

In temperate climates, evergreens can reinforce their own survival; evergreen leaf and needle litter has a higher carbon-nitrogen ratio than deciduous leaf litter, contributing to a higher soil acidity and lower soil nitrogen content. These conditions favour the growth of more evergreens and make it more difficult for deciduous plants to persist. In addition, the shelter provided by existing evergreen plants can make it easier for other evergreen plants to survive cold and/or drought.

From the potting shed - gardening tips for April

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:13:00 +0000

As the days grow longer and hopefully hotter, gardening conditions are improving so it’s time for getting out and about in the garden and tackling those ever persistent weeds that just love this rapid growing period.

But, it’s not all back breaking repetition for this month. Spring has sprung, the lambs are gambolling and we should be ablaze with a sea of daffodils and narcissus.

Top jobs for this month

PERENNIALS, ANNUALS and BULBS

• Now is an ideal time for planting summer flowering blubs. There is a vast range available online, from mail order catalogues and down the local garden centre. Just remember to give your bulbs a boost with some good bulb fertilizer when you plant them out. But, remember you get what you pay for when buying bulbs – so don’t sting!

• Deadhead your spring flowering bulbs but leave the green foliage as this will continue to grow for a few weeks and provide food for next year. I have also read that once the green foliage has gone over, it’s good to give the bulbs some soluble plant food which will help to boost flowering next season.

• If you’re a keen rose lover then April is the month to plant new varieties before new growth starts and buds swell.

FRUITS and VEGGIES

• Why not experiment with some fruit trees or berry plants this year? This is month to select them and don’t forget they will do best when planted in full sun.

• If you have been nurturing “sow your own seeds” over the last few months either in the greenhouse or in the warm under the stairs, then check them for potting-up and pricking out to encourage growth and to avoid overcrowding.

• Remember to protect any fruit blossom from late frosts.

THE LAWN

• If you didn’t apply a fertilizer last month an application now should help to perk it up and improve its overall appearance and colour.

• Aerating the lawn at this time of year will allow the water to penetrate deeper, help with compaction and reduce the need to water during the dryer months ahead. You can use a garden fork or even invest in a set of lawn aerator shoes

• Before you start mowing just check your lawn mower to ensure that blades are sharp. Blades on most modern lawn mowers are easy to remove and replace if needed. Keep the cut relatively high at this time of the year to avoid scalping.

And finally, the gardener’s companion says…….. Anyone who considers gnomes tacky and cheap should take note. In 1997, a garden gnome, know as Lampy and believed to be one of the oldest in the world, was insured for one million pounds.

Grow Bag Gardening

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:05:00 +0000

As a child I remember my dad using grow-bags on the patio for growing his tomatoes and my mum complaining about the sight of them. But, they have come a long way since those early days and now have dedicated websites, blogs, flicker sites and even their own houses.

So what is the phenomenon?

Traditionally the bags were used in the greenhouse because of their space saving efficiency and also plants or vegetables would not become infected by any diseases lurking in the existing soil. Although, they are still widely used in the greenhouse they make ideal plantings areas for small gardens where space is at a premium.

How to prepare and plant

Loosen the compost in the bag by shaking and kneading it like a pillow.
Shape the bag into a low hummock, making sure compost is evenly spread.
Pierce the base of bag for drainage and cut out the pre-marked planting areas of a trough if you are planting salad crops.
Scoop out compost from each planting area leaving a big enough hole for the root ball of your plant. Put a plant in each hole and refill around it with compost. The top of each root ball should be just below the top of the bag.
Improve the effectiveness of your watering by burying a small flower pot in the compost alongside each tomato plant. Filling the pot when you water means water is directed to the roots of the plant and doesn't run off the surface of the compost.

What to grow

Growing bags are ideal for plants that don't have deep roots, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, chilli peppers, aubergines and courgettes. However, with so many additional accessories available such as bottomless plant pots you could try a whole range of plants for instant colour in difficult planting areas.

Aftercare

If you are growing taller or top-heavy or top-heavy crops push a cane into the bag next to each plant. Tie the plant to the cane and attach the cane to a frame. This will prevent the plants from toppling over in the wind or if they become top heavy.

Keep the compost moist and feed plants such as aubergine, tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers with a high potash fertiliser when flowers appear - this will ensure you get the plumpest fruit. When crops have finished, split the bag open and recycle the compost as a soil conditioner in the garden.

Gardening Tips for March

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 17:37:00 +0000

March is a guessing game in the garden. Will it warm up soon? Will it stay warm? Will the rains start/stop? About the only thing we can count on is that March will soon turn to April when hopefully we can all get out and about in the garden.

Planting

This month roses will begin that first bloom.

Azaleas and camellias are best planted while blooming. They began their blooming in February, so March is right in the middle of their blooming season. Please don’t feed your camellias until they have completed their blooming. If you do, they will drop all remaining buds. Fertilise to reward the plant after the blooming ends.

Spring colour plants are arriving! Brighten up your gardens with perennials and annuals. Look for perennials such as campanula, columbine, coral bells, delphinium, foxglove (digitalis), diascia, penstemon, salvia, yarrow and so much more. Great annuals to pick from include celosia, coleus, dianthus, linaria, lobelia, marigolds, nicotiana, petunias, salvias, and verbena.

There is still time for planting bulbs!

And, don’t forget to start your vegetable gardens! Veggies as the cabbage family (cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli), squash, lettuce, spinach, peppers, and cool season tomatoes will be in this month. This is also a good time not only to prune back herbs from last year, but also add in new plants such as chives, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme.

Maintenance Duties

Fertilise your lawns and roses.

Snails will coming be out to munch on the tender new growth. So stay alert.

Now is also the time to divide perennials such as agapanthus, callas, daylilies, rudbeckia, and daisies. Those with fuchsias can cut them back two-thirds toward the main branches. Remember to leave 2-5 leaf bud/scars for new growth.

You can begin pruning your ornamental shrubs (pittosporum, boxwood, etc.) for hedges. Wait to prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees until their blooming is over.

And if anyone has any specific gardening questions they would like answering, please feel free to email us; info@davidcheethamgardens.co.uk

Happy Gardening!!

Regards
David Cheetham MSGD

Bedding Plants

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 18:06:00 +0000

Bedding plants can provide colour in your garden all the year round by replacing Summer flowering plants with selections for Autumn and Winter. They are ideal for planting on their own or with most other plants in a whole range of situations such as hanging baskets, tubs and pots, window boxes, troughs and of course in borders in the garden.

Preparation

For a colourful display thorough preparation is essential. Ensure you have good drainage in containers and good potting compost for plants to grow in. Prepare borders in the garden, first by well forking over to a depth of about 30cm (12in), adding a general fertiliser and some form of planting compost before planting starts.

Selecting your plants

Plants are grown in all sorts of trays and pots from small starter plants to larger plants which offer instant colour. Whatever you choose select sturdy plants which are green and healthy. Check that the leaves have not been eaten and are free from pests and diseases. Never buy plants that are dry or have been allowed to dry out.

Planting

1. Water plants well before planting.
2. Taller plants will give height and trailing or bushy plants will give depth and width.
3. Take care when removing your plants from their tray or pots so as not to damage the roots or shoots. Watering them before removal will help prevent this.
4. Never plant too firmly as roots need to breathe and expand the area they are covering.
5. Plant to just below the depth they were grown in their original container.
6. Plant so that they will just touch each other when fully grown - refer to the plant label but as a general rule plant shorter growing types 10-15cm (4-6ins) apart and taller varieties 23-30cm (9-12ins) apart.

Borders

In borders place tall plants to the rear reducing heights gradually using compact edging plants at the front - do not over crowd - all plants need room to grow.

Colours

It is important to blend colours together - try planting drifts of colour in borders. Use 'hot' colours - reds, yellows, oranges, or 'cool' colours - blues, lavender, silver and white for different effects. The garden is an extension of your home - use colour schemes as you would indoors

Feeding

Plants are like people and need feeding to give the best results. Use a dry controlled release fertiliser at planting time which should feed for most of the growing and flowering season. Use a liquid feed towards the end of the Summer as a pick-me-up but water well first to ensure good take up.

Watering

Hanging baskets may require watering more than once a day, especially during hot weather. If the compost does dry out, water thoroughly and repeat. Create good drainage to prevent water logging in containers. After planting new plants, water thoroughly.

Garden Lighting

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 17:46:00 +0000

There is an enormous range of low voltage lighting now available for the garden but creating that desired 'lighting' affect is a question of beam angle and brightness.

Beam Angle

Beam angle affects the coverage of a light. Sometimes you will want a small pool of light from a narrow beam to accent a feature without lighting the surroundings; other areas of your garden may require the widest coverage available.

There are typically four main beam angles 12, 24, 36 and 60 degrees.

12 degrees will produce a narrow spot beam and depending on the wattage of your bulbs is ideal for up-lighting and down-lighting columns and spotlighting
small, light coloured features.

24 degrees will produce a standard beam and again depending on the wattage of your bulbs is ideal for up-lighting pergola posts & climbers; and providing accent lighting.

36 degrees will produce a flood beam and is ideal for plant lighting in small gardens;, accent lighting on close features and cross-lighting steps.

60 degrees will produce a very wide flood beam and depending on the wattage of your bulbs is ideal for plant lighting in small gardens, down-lighting onto tables and providing ambient moon-lighting from small trees.

Brightness

Brightness isn't just about the wattage of the lamp. The brightness of a 20 watt lamp squeezed into a narrow spot beam can produce a brighter pool of light than that of a 50 watt lamp projected in a wide flood beam. So, first "fit" the beam angle to your subject then think about brightness. But remember, 'brightness' will vary for a number of reasons;

Individual perception of brightness varies and this may be affected partly by ambient light from nearby streetlights or "cityglow". Using exterior lights with a range of lamp wattage choices will allow for changes in the overall scheme.

Darker, textured objects reflect less light back to the eye than smooth, light coloured ones and will therefore require brighter lamps to make them stand out. Use higher wattage bulbs for lighting dark features. Make sure your transformers have the are flexibility and spare capacity, to allow for upgrading from say, a 50 watt lamp to a 75 watt one.

When light hits an object or surface at an angle, the light is 'stretched' which means the light is spread over a large area and therefore seems less bright. Again having flexibility and capacity on your transformer will allow you to change bulb wattage.

Decking Care

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:01:00 +0000

Cleaning

Any decking will benefit from regular cleaning although the frequency of this will depend on the sort of usage to which the deck is subject.
Occasional brushing with a stiff broom will normally be adequate for most decks to remove dirt, dead leaves or any slight surface growth in areas where there may have been little wear. The brush should be stiff enough to remove any dirt that may have accumulated in drainage grooves or gaps but not stiff enough to damage any applied surface finish.
Brushing the deck regularly will not only maintain the appearance but will reduce any risk of slipperiness developing from surface growth, engrained dirt, or standing water accumulating due to blocked grooves or gaps between the boards.
Cleaning public decks is frequently carried out by mechanical brushes but rotary brushes are less effective than the cylindrical type in cleaning dirt from grooves and gaps. One advantage of running boards along the deck, rather than across, is that the grooves and gaps can be more easily cleaned by machine. If coarse fibre or wire brushes are used these will tend to remove any surface finish very quickly and can seriously scour the surface even of dense hardwoods. It is important to check that an appropriate brush stiffness is chosen.
On large decks for public use it is especially important to keep the drainage grooves clear because even with clean drainage grooves it takes longer for any surface water to drain away from a large area.
If a non-slip surface finish is applied, or there are non-slip inserts in the grooves, particular care must be taken with any mechanical cleaning to ensure that the surface finish is not removed or the inserts dislodged by the brushing.
It is not advisable to wash down timber decks with large quantities of water or hoses because there is a risk of wetting the boards sufficiently to cause some moisture movement. This could affect the life of any surface finish and lead to increased surface checking when the boards dry in the sun and shrink. However cleaning with a high pressure hose which combines air with a small quantity of water, will dislodge dirt effectively without excessively wetting the wood.
Local soiling and surface growth can usually be removed by mild detergent solutions but if stains are more deep seated on unfinished boards it may be necessary to use specialist deck cleaners which remove dirt, algae and mildew. If using dilute household bleach, the effect should be tested to determine the appropriate strength before it is used in any quantity on the boards. If the stains are from chemicals or metals and still resist this treatment it may be necessary to use special products available for deck restoration which can generally remove quite deep seated stains.
To avoid uneven bleaching, or variation in the colour of a stain finish, it is advisable to occasionally move around any furniture, or other objects, kept permanently on the deck. Any planters or plant pots should be stood on metal trays so that watering does not result in the deck under the pots being permanently wetted, leading to discolouration and mould growth. If the drip trays are supported on battens the top surface of the deck will also be well ventilated.
Tightening fixings and re-surfacing
After the deck has been in use for some time it may be necessary to carry out two forms of maintenance.
The first is to ensure that all the boards are firmly held down. Shrinkage and sometimes wear can result in the loosening or 'popping' of fixings. Nails should be driven home flush to the surface of the boards, and screws tightened as necessary.
Occasionally it may be necessary to replace individual boards that may have been distorted or become more worn in heavily used areas of the deck.
Besides tightening the deck fixings it is advisable to also inspect any bolted or screwed connections in the sub-structure which may have become loose through shrinkage of the wood, and tighten these as necessary. It is advisable to first do this check about six months after the deck has been completed by which time any substantial shrinkage in the wood should have taken place.
The second form of maintenance would normally only be required for unfinished decks where the surface may have become encrusted or worn over time. If the decks are of unfinished hardwood occasional mechanical scouring with wire brushes or sanding will remove mould growth, loose material, engrained dirt or surface staining but it is important to avoid scouring or sanding to the extent that the surface is excessively worn down or, alternatively polished, to a level that would increase slipperiness of the surface.
Alternatively, the use of specific timber deck cleaners will remove growths, clean and may brighten greyed timber.
Re-finishing
Any surface finish will require regular inspection and occasional re-coating. Clear moisture resistant coatings should preferably be re-applied annually but pigmented stains will last several years (depending on the product, the quality of application, the exposure and usage of the deck). It is important that the deck and the grooves and gaps between boards are completely cleaned before the application of a new coat of stain.
If the existing stain has broken down to the extent that the wood has begun to turn grey in places, it is also important to brush away any loose fibres from the surface or treat with a cleaner before re-applying stain.
The deck should be as dry as possible before any stain is applied and the temperature should be within the range prescribed by the manufacturers. It is always advisable to use the same product for refinishing to ensure that the new coating is compatible with the old.

2010 Pond Pumps - Which One?

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:24:00 +0000

Pumps are used to move water. So, depending on your pond the type of water feature you may have, its location and also if your pond contains fish there are a number of things you need to consider.
The vertical height of the waterfall inlet above the water surface of the pond. - This may sound technical but basically what it means is how high is the water above the level of your pond or water reservoir.

The width of the water overflow point for the waterfall. -This is most relevant to something like a cascading waterfall which may have one or more outlets such as a water feature in a rockery. All you need to do is measure the width of the over flow points. If the water falls back into the pond at numerous points then you will need to total the width of all points. This is not required for water features such as fountains.

What is the water capacity of your pond or reservoir. Usually you calculate this in gallons. You will need to know the the length x width x average depth (in feet).
Are you going to have fish? - if so, you will also need to have a filter and UVC (ultra violet clarifier). The fish pollute the water and will increase the toxic levels of your pond. Filters remove these suspended solids. There are there main types of filters, gravity flow, a pressurised filter and specialist filets that are a combination of both.

The tables below will help you buy the relevant pump for a pond or water feature;

Pond with over flow point (s) - you need the length from the pond and total width of over flow.

height
1 ft high
2 ft high
3 ft high
4 ft high
5 ft high
6 ft high
width
3" wide
350 gph
500 gph
500 gph
500 gph
700 gph
700 gph
6" wide
700 gph
700 gph
700 gph
700 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
9" wide
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
12" wide
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph

Pumps recommendations for ponds with no waterfall;

Volume
300 galls
500 galls
1000 galls
1500 galls
2000 galls
2500 galls
GPH
350 gph
350 gph
500 gph
700 gph
1200 gph
1200 gph

Therefore if you had a pond whose total volume is 1,000 gallons then a good pump choice would be one that can pump about half of of this volume per hour.In this case a pump of 500 gph flow would do. If in doubt always go one pump size bigger.

Barbeques - What To Consider

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 18:35:00 +0000

An essential part of relaxed outdoor entertaining, a barbecue comes close to the top of most people's garden wish list. From the portable and disposable to the stainless steel and sophisticated there are a multitude of barbecues to chose from.
The success of your outdoor culinary exploits not only depends on your bbq cooking skills but also upon choosing the right barbecue to meet your needs. Before investing in a barbecue sit down and think about what you really need.
Among the key points to consider are:
1. your budget
2. the number of people you hope to cater for
3. the space available in the garden and for winter storage
For occasional, small-scale cooking disposable barbecues, foil trays complete with charcoal and lighter paper, are very successful. They are easy to light and burn well for a reasonable length of time. They are perfect for the smallest of spaces or even a picnic, but are not for the serious outdoor cook.
Charcoal burning barbecues come in a multitude of shapes and sizes, some are built to fold away, others are on wheels, some require upwards of 2 metres of patio space others less than a quarter of that. Many boast hot plates, griddles or rotisseries and areas to keep the food warm, but before you invest, it is wise to go back to what you really need and consider the basics.
Look at the size of the cooking area - bangers and burgers or tiger prawns and sea bass will it be large enough to cope? Next consider the size of the barbecue itself, not only do you need space enough for the barbecue but allow room to work around it, tables to hold uncooked food, tools and marinades and for the cluster of guests who will naturally gather around the barbecue in the relaxed informality of the barbecue. It is also worth remembering you will also need enough space at the back of the garage or in the shed to store it over the winter.
Like all garden equipment the barbecue should be robust enough to put up with the wear and tear that is part of outdoor life. Look for a sturdy construction, with metal work, paint and fittings that will resist corrosion.
Some large barbecues come with a cover to provide some protection, if not it is well worth buying a waterproof cover, available from DIY stores, to protect your investment. Finally check on ease of cleaning and charcoal removal. For something that will be centre stage, style is a major consideration, and there are plenty to chose from, contemporary gleaming stainless steel to cheerful bright colours, its all a matter of personal taste but select something that will fits in with the style of your garden or the mood you are trying to create.
For those who find the whole process of lighting charcoal, standing in billowing smoke and waiting for the barbecue to reach the right heat just too time consuming, difficult or daunting a gas barbecue is the perfect solution. Though shunned as cheating by some gas barbecues offer controllable, consistent heat at the touch of a button, ensuring that food can be cooked to perfection. Fuelled by propane gas cylinders which are available from DIY and hardware stores, a gas barbecue offers perhaps the most reliable way to cook outdoors.
If you are a dedicated to open air cookery it could be worth designing your own brick or stone barbecue, perhaps as part of an outdoor kitchen. This way you have the luxury of ensuring it is tailored perfectly to your needs, the best shape, size, height and style for you. The construction need not be complex, single brick walls with a tray for the charcoal and runners for the grill will suffice, or you could incorporate areas of work surface and even storage cupboards to create a real feature, a practical outdoor kitchen.
The down side of a permanent barbecue is that as a permanent fixture it constantly occupies space in the garden even when you aren't using it and you can't follow the sun (or shade) to another part of the garden as you can with an off the shelf barbecue. As a permanent feature a great deal of thought need to go into its design so it becomes an attractive addition to the garden rather than an eyesore, as always chose something that fits the style of the garden. Few gardens can successfully carry off an imposing range or Mediterranean style construction. One solution is to disguise the barbecue, constructing it reasonably low so when it is not in use a slatted wooden top can be added and it becomes a bench. When planning a permanent barbecue always allow plenty of space for working and for people to congregate.
Increasingly popular to take the chill off summers evenings, chimineas boast the possibility of cooking over the fire in the bottle shaped terracotta body. The reality is that for the standard chimineas it really isn't a practical option for a full- scale meal.
Some chimineas are adapted for cooking making them far more practical, but retain the traditional terracotta form that is so popular. A new development, the Bushman Barbecue has the same appeal as the chiminea but the added benefits of sophisticated cooking systems, the resilience to withstand a British winter, the capability to burn house coal and the possibility of customising the burner to match your garden colour scheme.

Herb Garden

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 18:11:00 +0000

Where to site your herb garden?
Ideally, the sunniest part of your garden. Herbs like an open and sunny but sheltered site, with neutral to alkaline soil, with good drainage.
If you have clay soil, the best thing to do is roughly dig over the soil in autumn and leave the soil to be broken down by frost over the winter. This works by the rough soil being exposed to the wet weather and soaked by water and when the frosts come, the soil expand and breaks down.
Then in early spring - and this goes for sandy, chalky or silt soil as well - dig through plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted garden or mushroom compost. This will provide the free-draining and fertile bed your herbs will need. You do not need to feed or fertilise your herbs as this will result in lots of growth, but do little to enhance the flavour or aroma. Herbs with excessive growth are also more prone to frost damage.
Planning
The planning for your herb garden is only limited by the size of your plot and your imagination. What would you like to grow? And how big will it get??
When you buy herbs in pots from a garden centre, on the label it will tell you how tall, and wide your plant will get. Often, packets of seeds will give you the same information. When planning your garden, you will need to take into account the eventual size of your plants. For instance, if you are planning an island border in your lawn, the tallest herbs go in the centre and the lower-growing ones on the outside.
Varieties
There is an extensive selection of herbs available, so are you going to use your herbs for cooking or adding aroma and fragrance to your garden, As well varieties don’t forget colour. Herbs come in a range of colours from cream to glossy green, to silver, and all shades of pink to deep purple.
Herbs in containers
If you have limited space in your garden then herbs are also idea for containers. Just remember to use quality multi-purpose compost and make sure the containers have adequate drainage. You must make sure the containers are kept well watered, as they tend to dry out a lot quicker than if they are planted in the ground.
Some herbs are very invasive such as mint so it would be advisable to plant this in its own container. Again, check the planting instructions that come with your herbs to see what the overall size of the herb will be once fully grown
Popular Garden Herbs
BASIL, SWEET (Ocimum basilicum) Both green and 'Dark Opal' basil are attractive plants for the garden. Basil is not difficult to transplant. Grows to 18 inches; space 12 inches between plants. 'Dark Opal' has beautiful deep red foliage and lovely pink flowers. Basil is very good to use to flavour tomato juice and tomato pastes.

BORAGE (Borago officinalis) This has pinkish blossoms which turn blue like the perennial pulmonaria. It is an annual and should be planted directly to the garden in early May in the North. Growing to 2 feet it should be spaced 10 inches apart. Germinates in 7 -to 10 days. Resents transplanting except when quite small. It is excellent used in tossed salad to add a flavour.
CHERVIL (Anthriscus cerefolium) Although this plant will germinate in the fall and live over the winter it is best to grow it as an annual, sowing in mid-May Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 8 inches apart. This herb grows quickly and is mature in 6 weeks. Resents transplanting. Fresh leaves can be frozen in small packets after washing carefully.

CHIVES (Allium scboenoprasum) This is a perennial plant that are very easy to grown from seed or plant. Mature plants grow to 12 inches, space 6 inches apart. They are very hardy even in cold locations. Flowers are pretty enough so that chives can be grown as a border or in the rock garden. Ideal in salads, egg dishes and a variety of sauces. Chives will also grow on a sunny windowsill over winter.

DILL (Anethum graveolens) This is an easily grown annual with feathery foliage. Blossoms are tiny and pale yellow. Grows to 2 1/2 feet and germinates in 7 to 10 days planted at the same time as tender vegetables. Resents transplanting. May be spaced as close as 4 inches apart. Self-sows readily. Fine for use in pickling and to flavour meats.
MARJORAM, SWEET (Majorana hortensis) This is a perennial that grows to 12 inches; space 6 inches apart. Plants may be potted up and grown in the greenhouse or sunny window over the winter. Adds a delicate flavour to lamb, fish, salads and soups.

MINT (Mentha spicata) Mint is very easy to grow. It is a hardy perennial and spreads by root stolons. Sown indoors seed germinates in 10 to 15 days. It grows to 2 feet and is rather sprawling, in habit. Space 12 inches apart. Favours a good rich soil. Fine to use for mint jelly and in mint juleps, lemonade and other fruit drinks.
SAGE (Saivia officinalis) This is a hardy perennial and is often grown in gardens for its pretty foliage and spikes of bluish flowers. Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 12 inches apart. Can be sown outdoors in May with germination in 21 to 30 days. An ideal herb for dressings for chicken, turkey, pork and for flavouring sausages.

Algae Advice

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 17:18:00 +0000

What are Algae?

Algae are a large and successful group of organisms, which flourish in the sea, in fresh-water and in damp places on land. Most algae contain green chlorophyll, and can produce foods, such as sugars, from the sun. Although they seem plant-like, scientists have classified them in a group of their own, outside the plant kingdom. They have been classified in a separate kingdom called Protista.
Whereas plants always have specialised reproductive structures made up of many different types of cell, algae do not.
Algae reproduce by using little spores, or by growing copies of themselves from buds or broken-off fragments.
Algae can be lively little characters, even though they are not animals. Many are made of a single cell, and cannot be individually examined without a microscope. Many of these little algae can swim.
Some, called Dinoflagellates , have little whip-like structures (flagella), which pull them through the water.
Some algae squish part of their body forwards and crawl along solid surfaces.
Some algae are made of fine filaments, with cells joined from end to end. Some of them clump together to form colonies. Others, like many seaweeds, are very large and grow in the shape of tubes, clubs and trees. These large algae have thick root-like structures, called "holdfasts" which can cling onto rocks.
Are Algae Important?
Algae are extremely important. They produce more oxygen than all the plants in the world, put together. They are also a very important food source for tiny animals such as little shrimps and huge animals like whales.
Because algae are at the bottom of the food chain many living things depend upon them.

Aerating the Lawn

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 13:39:00 +0000

What is lawn aeration?
Lawn aeration is the process of creating air channels in your lawn so that air can freely pass into the soil and circulate around the grass roots. Its is achieved by either removing small cylinder shaped cores about 0.5cm wide and 5-10cm deep (similar to the idea of coring an apple) , this is known as core aeration, or by creating aeration channels by inserting solid spikes (such as the tines of a garden fork) into the soil.
Why do you need to aerate the lawn?
Over time the soil that the lawn grows on can become compacted which can have a negative effect on your lawn. The damage to your lawn from soil compaction results from the pore spaces within the soil becoming smaller and this leads to both a reduced amount of air held in the soil, restricted air flow and reduced water infiltration into the soil.
Reduced air levels and restricted air circulation in the soil means that the grass roots are less able to take up oxygen. Reduced soil pore space also leads to reduced levels of nutrient uptake from the soil. Oxygen is a vital input into a plants growth cycle. If the ability of water to infiltrate the soil is limited by soil compaction then the water will not infiltrate as deeply into the soil as normal, this means the lawns roots will not develop as deeply and so the lawn will be more at risk from drought.
How does lawn aeration benefit my lawn?
Lawn aeration has a number of benefits including:
Increased water, oxygen and nutrient uptake by the grass roots
Improved development of roots to greater soil depths
Enhancing water infiltration into the soil
Encouraging the breakdown and decomposition of thatch by soil microorganisms
Does your lawn need aerating?
How can you tell if our lawn needs aerating? The simplest way to determine this is to remove a section of turf from the edge of the lawn to the depth of a spade. If the roots of the grass are only reaching an inch or two from the soil surface then your soil is potentially compacted and could benefit from aeration.
How do I aerate the lawn?
Lawn aeration can be carried out by hand or with the aid or a lawn aerator machine. Lawn aeration should be carried out once a year and should be carried out at the beginning of the lawns growing season, normally early spring. There will be less competition for light, water and soil resources from weeds at this point in the growing season.
When should you avoid aerating the lawn?
If you have sown a new lawn from seed then do not aerate it in its first year of growth. If you have a lawn that receives no significant compacting affects and you have aerated it recently then there may be no need to aerate it every year. You should also avoid aerating the lawn after periods of heavy rainfall when the soil is wet through. This is because wet soil will stick in the ‘cores’ of the aerator and so the coring action of the aerator is greatly impeded.
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Grow Your Own -Sowing Seeds

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:34:00 +0000

I must admit, that as a garden designer I usually restock my garden direct from the nursery or a local garden centre, mainly for time, ease and selection.

However last year, having been dazzled by an array of seeds I decided to grow my own. Some catalogues boost over 600 varieties so, whether you are into flowers, herbs or vegetables there's a massive range of plants that can be cultivated.
I found growing from seed relatively easy, but you do need a little patience and obviously some space. The packets have detailed instructions to guide you through the stages and there are numerous websites that will provide individual growing guides.
Basically, there are three key stages; sowing, pricking out and potting up. But, I did try a variety of seeds that you sow direct which were also successful and more time efficient.

Sowing
I suggest starting of with a small selection of your favourite seeds as you could end up with pots of soil all over the place. Not ideal especially if space is limited.

Seed trays with clear lids provide a one-stop solution for your initial sowing. Half fill the trays with sowing compost and firm down. Tiny seeds can be scattered over the surface of the compost. For larger seeds make a hole using a pencil and sow an individual seed. Cover over with a thin layer of fresh compost and water with slightly tepid water.

Pricking Out
When your seedlings have two or more sets of leaves and are large enough to handle it's time to give them more room to grow.

Water the seeds an hour or so before you handle them to loosen the soil and make it easier to separate the roots. Whilst you’re waiting, fill some larger pots with seed and cutting compost and using a pencil make four of five holes in the surface. Gently, tease the seedlings from the seed trays, separate and then drop the roots into the individual holes in your large pots. Water them in with some tepid water. I found a spray bottle excellent for this.

Potting Up Seedlings
Once your young seedlings have grown and matured, they will need to be potted up to their own individual pots to allow them to develop before they can be planted out.

Again, soak the seedlings before transplanting. Fill individual 3-inch (7.5cm) pots with a multi-purpose compost and make a hole in each pot big enough to take the roots. Gently dig out the plants holding onto a leaf and not the delicate stem and then drop the roots into the hole.

Keep in a frost-free place, water and feed them regularly with plant food to support the early spring growth and to ensure the best possible start.

Compost and Mulch

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 17:18:00 +0000

Compost and mulch are two of a gardener's best friends. It is beneficial for strong and healthy plants and will significantly increase the productivity of your garden. Their long lasting benefits save time and effort in all types of gardens. There are many forms of compost and mulch. Some are organic while others are artificial.

What's the Difference between Compost and Mulch?

Compost is any kind of decayed, organic plant or animal matter. In the home garden, we think of compost as organic plant matter. It's nutrient rich composition acts as a natural fertilizer for your plants. The act of "composting" is the process where organic plant and animal matter decays as a result of piling it up and allowing it to decay through the natural process of decomposition. This is accomplished over a period of time by means of natural bacteria and often aided by worms, heat ,and water.

Compost is literally any organic matter. It can include weeds, grass clippings, hay, seaweed, garden waste, kitchen scraps, tree leaves, or branches to name a few. It can also be animal matter. Animal matter is discouraged, as it has several disadvantages, most notably attracting unwanted garden pests.

Mulch on the other hand, is any material placed around plants as a protective covering for the purpose of:

Reducing weeds around the plants
Increasing or decreasing soil temperature
Retaining moisture around the plant

Mulches can be organic such as compost, wood chips, grass clippings, or hay to name a few. Or, they could be inorganic such as black plastic newspaper, or even aluminium foil. The benefit of organic is that it also enriches the soil. In-organic mulches can be much more efficient in keeping out weeds. But they are of no benefit to the composition of your garden soil.

How to Compost:

There is not much you can do wrong long term to the compost pile. Pile up any organic matter and it will decompose over time. If you simply pile it on, it will decompose eventually. What most gardeners want however, is to speed up the composting process and avoid the pitfalls of bad odour and attracting unwanted pests.

A well maintained and active compost pile will convert organic material to compost in as little as thirty days. Left to nature, it could take several months or even a year. The byproduct of active decomposition is heat. . A compost pile can actually become so hot that it ignites. This is a not so rare an occurrence, most commonly occurring in large town or industrial composting.

The Basics to Good Composting:

Select an area to create your pile.
Many people opt to close in their pile with fencing or acquire a home composter. Home composters are neat and more aesthetically pleasing than a pile of weeds in the middle of your yard.
Add any organic matter from your garden or yard.
Also include any vegetable waste from your kitchen, including egg shells, coffee grounds, tea bags, etc.
If possible, alternate layers of green (new) and brown waste. This helps the mixing process, and aids in decomposition.
Keep the compost pile moist, but not wet.
Turn the pile over from time to time to maximize air circulation to the bacteria and microbes that "eat" and convert your pile into rich compost.
Use the compost after it has almost completely turned into soil. It will be rich in nutrients and minerals.
Use and enjoy!

Some Do's and Don'ts:

Do stir the pile to allow air penetration
Don't put animal remains or meat and fats from cooking in the pile. While they may be rich in nutrients, they attract unwanted little "critters"
Do keep the pile moist
Don't put grass clippings too thickly, or they will smell as they decay and decay slower.
Chip or shred larger items such a branches and plant stalks if possible. The more area bacteria has to work, the quicker the decomposition.
Don't put diseased plants of any kind into the compost pile. They can overwinter in the pile and re-infest your garden next year.

Speeding up the process:

Stirring the pile from time to time, speeds up the process
Keep it loose to allow air flow
Red worms will speed up the composting process. Add them to your pile once and they should reproduce

Plants Suitable for Drought Conditions

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 17:15:00 +0000

Drought tolerant plants are plants that can sustain significant periods of drought without suffering undue harm. However, even drought tolerant plants will need watering after planting until their root systems become fully established.

Annuals & bedding

Alcea
Alyssum
Amaranthus
Brachycombe
Calendula
Cosmos
Eschscholzia
Felicia
Gazania
Lunaria annua
Mesembryanthemum
Papaver somniferum
Portulaca
Salvia farinacea

Ornamental grasses
Cortaderia selloana
Festuca glauca
Helictotrichon sempervirens
Panicum virgatum
Pennisetum
Phalaris arundinacea
Pseudosasa japonica
Stipa

Herbaceous perennials
Achillea
Alchemilla mollis
Anaphalis
Asphodeline lutea
Baptisia autralis
Carlina acaulis
Catananche caerulea
Centaurea cineraria
Centranthus ruber
Cerastium tomentosum
Crambe cordifolia
Crepis incana
Cynara cardunculus
Dianthus (border carnations; pinks)
Echinops
Erodium
Eryngium
Euphorbia
Geranium
Gypsophila paniculata
Heuchera
Linum perenne
Liriope
Marrubium vulgare

Climbers/wall-trained shrubs
Abutilon
Acacia
Caesalpinia gillesii
Campsis
Cotoneaster horizontalis
Eccremocarpus scaber
Eriobotrya japonica
Erythrina crista-galli
Euonymus fortunei 'Silver Queen'
Fallopia baldschuanicum
Fremontodendron
Garrya elliptica
Hedera
Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris
Jasminum
Lathyrus latifolius
Lonicera japonica
Lycium barbarum

Winter Colour For Your Garden

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:29:00 +0000

Although winter approaches with shorter days and colder, wet weather, your garden needn't look lifeless and bland. With some creative planning using a combination of texture and colour, any outdoor space can look rich and vibrant over the coming months.
The key at this time of year is to plant your flowering plants nearer to your house in blocks of colour especially close to windows and along pathways. This will help to give the impression that the whole of your garden is still in bloom.
Whites, pinks and purples look good together and will create a brilliant winter display. Complementary plants are winter violas, pansies and dusty miller (Senecio Cineraria). Evergreen grasses, such as Carex, Acorus, blend beautifully with ornamental kale and cabbage and make great focal points. Flowering kale is also a great accent for evergreen ground cover and looks amazing planted below trees and winter flowering shrubs like Viburnum ‘Pink Dawn’.

There are many versatile trees, shrubs and plants that can give depth and texture to your garden and bring amazing colour with flowers, berries and leaves. You don’t have to worry if you have limited planting beds either, as many of these plants will also thrive in pots with the right care and attention.

Selection of winter colour plants and shrubs.
Ilex Aquifolium J.C. Van Tol - English Holly: Dark, almost spineless green leaves and large, regular crops of red fruit
Daphne Mezereum – Daphne: Well-known, sweet scented deciduous shrub flowering in February and March. Purple red flowers followed by scarlet fruits
Callicarpa profusion - Beauty Berry: Free-fruiting shrub with bronze-purple foliage and dense clusters of violet fruits
Chimonanthus praecox- Winter-sweet: Flowers around Christmas with beautiful purple centred yellow
Helleborus Niger - Christmas Rose: Very easy to grow and blooming from Autumn through until spring
Erica carnea - Springwood White (cultivar): Low-growing sub shrub reaching 10-25 cm in height. Evergreen needle leaves and dark red bell shaped flowers
Lonicera Fragrantissima - Shrubby honeysuckle: Lovely flowering species with delicate creamy white flowers
Corylus Avellana Contorta - Corkscrew Hazel: Easily to grow and very interesting visually, branches literally do corkscrew with beautiful rich green
Garry Elliptica- Silk- tassel bush: Long tassels hang from this impressive plant during winter and early Spring, very unusual plant that complements more traditional plants in the garden
Gaultheria Mucronata - Prickly heath: Evergreen shrub with dark green glossy leaves and clusters of small white flowers and purple fruit

Our Winter Neighbours

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:27:00 +0000

As winter arrives, so will the hard times for many of our wildlife neighbours. And as we are all aware, a regular winter can be a test for all animals and a long winter can be a disaster.

However, before we all rush out with scraps of food, wildlife biologists warn that such acts of kindness may result in unintended but often fatal results. Their reasons being; that congregating animals are susceptible to disease just as we are in close quarters, mouldy and wet food may cause illness, the old and young often do not get their fair share and predators are more likely to lurk in every corner.

Remember all those signs, ‘do not feed the animals’! But, if we combine a well balanced diet (in moderation, warn our wildlife experts) with a few other simple gardening tasks, we can all help in providing a winter haven throughout the cold months ahead. Also, what better way to watch our wildlife at close quarters?

Helping birds
Fat blocks in wire cages or feeders can help to provide extra winter food for our feathered friends. But, variety is important as different recipes will help to entice a greater selection of birds. Although, fat is important a well balanced diet should also include a grain mix, seeds or nuts. Over-ripe apples and raisins will help to attract thrushes and blackbirds.
By topping up you feeders on a regular basis this will help to ensure that birds do not waste vital energy visiting your garden when there is no food. Also, keep you feeders clean by wiping down every 2 -3 days with a very mild solution of bleach and warm water.
If you want to go even further, you could also plant berry and fruit trees such as Malus, Cotoneaster and Pyracantha.
Other Wildlife
Below is a list of simple tasks that will help to turn your garden into a wildlife haven;
Always check bonfires before they are lit in case there are sheltering and hibernating animals, often a favourite for hedgehogs, toads and frogs.
If you have a pond with ice, then melt it to allow the wildlife to drink and enter and leave the water. Do not hit or crack the ice as this can send shockwaves through the water that harms wildlife. Alternatively, leaving a ball on the surface will help to stop ice forming.
If you have a compost heap, again be careful if you turn it. The warmth of the compost can be a winter resort for frogs, toads and other animals.
Providing a shallow dish or container with water at ground level will benefit a range of wildlife that need to drink, as well as our feathered friends.
If you have bird boxes, then clean then out in late winter so they are ready for new nests in spring.

Lush Green Lawns

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:25:00 +0000

Standing barefoot on a beautiful lawn triggers our associations with the sound and smell of nature and visions of dense greenery. So, how do you keep your lawn in first-class condition throughout the summer months?

In many family gardens, the lawn generally occupies the largest area of our outdoor space and maintaining it should be seen as a rewarding experience and past time, rather than a burden.
Throughout the long summer months you should simply focus on mowing, watering and feeding. However, lawn diseases and weeds may also appear.
In terms of weeds, summer is not a good time to apply a general weed killer to the lawn which should ideally be done in the autumn. Keeping the lawn well cut will help to control weeds and larger persistent weeds can be simply dug out.

Although there are a host of potential lawn diseases the most common pests are chafer grubs and leatherjackets which can cause significant damage to your lawn. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass, check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product.

Mowing
As temperatures increase the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down. Cut twice a week when the grass is growing vigorously ensuring that you never take more than one third of the length of the lawn in any one cut. If temperatures become very hot and there are prolonged dry spells, your lawn may become stressed and you should reduce cutting to once a week. The ideal length for you lawn during the summer period is 30 – 35cm. As always a sharp mower is essential and if your mower doesn’t have a lawn box, rake up the cuttings after mowing.

Watering
Summer is the time when drought can occur and your lawn may turn brown and straw coloured. Where possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. It is normally best to do this when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). General watering should be done either early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most of us. Please remember to follow any local restrictions when using water in summer.

Feeding
As a rule, you shouldn’t need to feed you lawn during the summer. However, there are a number of products readily available that can be applied directly after cutting the lawn. Also, applying a general plant food via a mixer on your hose will help to keep it green and healthy.

Bulb Planting for Spring Colour

noreply@blogger.com (David Cheetham) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:17:00 +0000

If you want to be the envy of the neighbours next year then there is nothing more rewarding then creating a breathtaking and beautiful spring bulb display.

Most established and mature gardens will already have a range of bulbs naturalised in the boarders, under trees and even in the grass. But, there is still scope for trying out something new and even exotic to achieve some striking planting combinations.
Bulb catalogues are normally out in force at this time of the year or you can easily sign-up for them online. Spend some time cutting out pictures and arranging to create the planting combinations that not only appeal to you but also suit the growing conditions of your garden. All the information you need to know can be found in the catalogues.
In addition to tulips and daffodils, why not try other exotic Dutch bulbs, such as spring-flowering Scilla, Puschkinia, Muscari, Fritillaria, Allium, Camassia, and Eremurus. Spring-flowering bulbs offer a wide variety of colours, heights and flowering periods. So, let your imagination run wild.
And, don’t forget your containers. Containers are brilliant for bulbs as you can control the growing conditions, so this gives you a free reign to try out something different. You can plant larger containers with several layers of bulbs choosing different types that will flower one after another so keeping a fresh display for a number of months. Alternatively, try a combination of bulbs with other spring bedding plants.
As easy as 1-2-3
Most spring-flowering bulbs will thrive in either full or partial sun, but will do fine in almost any location that offers good drainage. After choosing the area:

Dig either a trench for a bed planting, or individual holes for individual bulbs or small cluster of bulbs. To determine how deep to plant, consider the calibre or size of the bulb. Large bulbs (5 cm or more) are usually planted about 15 cm deep; smaller-size bulbs (2.5 cm) are planted 7-10 cm deep.
Loosen the soil with a rake to aerate it and remove any weeds and small stones. Mix in a bit of peat moss to improve soil drainage. Place - do not push - bulbs firmly in the soil with the pointed side up. Space large bulbs 7-20 cm apart and small bulbs 3-7 cm apart.
Cover the bulbs with soil and water generously if the soil is not wet. Adding a thin layer of bark or mulch will provide added protection from the cold and helps the soil from drying out.

height	1 ft high	2 ft high	3 ft high	4 ft high	5 ft high	6 ft high
width
3" wide	350 gph	500 gph	500 gph	500 gph	700 gph	700 gph
6" wide	700 gph	700 gph	700 gph	700 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph
9" wide	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph
12" wide	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph

Volume	300 galls	500 galls	1000 galls	1500 galls	2000 galls	2500 galls
GPH	350 gph	350 gph	500 gph	700 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph

	BASIL, SWEET (Ocimum basilicum) Both green and 'Dark Opal' basil are attractive plants for the garden. Basil is not difficult to transplant. Grows to 18 inches; space 12 inches between plants. 'Dark Opal' has beautiful deep red foliage and lovely pink flowers. Basil is very good to use to flavour tomato juice and tomato pastes.
	BORAGE (Borago officinalis) This has pinkish blossoms which turn blue like the perennial pulmonaria. It is an annual and should be planted directly to the garden in early May in the North. Growing to 2 feet it should be spaced 10 inches apart. Germinates in 7 -to 10 days. Resents transplanting except when quite small. It is excellent used in tossed salad to add a flavour.
	CHERVIL (Anthriscus cerefolium) Although this plant will germinate in the fall and live over the winter it is best to grow it as an annual, sowing in mid-May Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 8 inches apart. This herb grows quickly and is mature in 6 weeks. Resents transplanting. Fresh leaves can be frozen in small packets after washing carefully.
	CHIVES (Allium scboenoprasum) This is a perennial plant that are very easy to grown from seed or plant. Mature plants grow to 12 inches, space 6 inches apart. They are very hardy even in cold locations. Flowers are pretty enough so that chives can be grown as a border or in the rock garden. Ideal in salads, egg dishes and a variety of sauces. Chives will also grow on a sunny windowsill over winter.
	DILL (Anethum graveolens) This is an easily grown annual with feathery foliage. Blossoms are tiny and pale yellow. Grows to 2 1/2 feet and germinates in 7 to 10 days planted at the same time as tender vegetables. Resents transplanting. May be spaced as close as 4 inches apart. Self-sows readily. Fine for use in pickling and to flavour meats.
	MARJORAM, SWEET (Majorana hortensis) This is a perennial that grows to 12 inches; space 6 inches apart. Plants may be potted up and grown in the greenhouse or sunny window over the winter. Adds a delicate flavour to lamb, fish, salads and soups.
	MINT (Mentha spicata) Mint is very easy to grow. It is a hardy perennial and spreads by root stolons. Sown indoors seed germinates in 10 to 15 days. It grows to 2 feet and is rather sprawling, in habit. Space 12 inches apart. Favours a good rich soil. Fine to use for mint jelly and in mint juleps, lemonade and other fruit drinks.
	SAGE (Saivia officinalis) This is a hardy perennial and is often grown in gardens for its pretty foliage and spikes of bluish flowers. Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 12 inches apart. Can be sown outdoors in May with germination in 21 to 30 days. An ideal herb for dressings for chicken, turkey, pork and for flavouring sausages.