Emm in London

Villa Savoye: Visiting Le Corbusier’s Modernist Masterpiece

2026-10-10T10:00:00.000+01:00

When we travelled to France last year, we stayed in Poissy, on the western outskirts of Paris. It was perfectly placed for Gerberoy, Giverny, Saint-Germain-en-Laye and Paris, but there was another reason I was keen to stay here: Villa Savoye. While researching the area, I stumbled across this modernist villa and, being a big fan of modernism, I knew I had to visit.

But before I get to the villa, let me tell you a little about the man who designed it. Charles-Édouard Jeanneret was born in Switzerland in 1887, but in 1920 he adopted the name Le Corbusier, a pseudonym based on his family name, Lecorbésier.

Le Corbusier became one of the most influential architects of the 20th century and a leading figure in modernist architecture. He believed that buildings should respond to modern life rather than being constrained by traditional forms and decoration.

The Ground Floor of Villa Savoye

Le Corbusier and his cousin Pierre Jeanneret designed Villa Savoye between 1928 and 1931 as a weekend and country house for Pierre and Eugénie Savoye in Poissy, just outside Paris.

This striking modernist home brings together Le Corbusier’s famous Five Points of Architecture. The pilotis lift the house above the ground, leaving the ground floor largely open. You can see them in the photo above and those below.

A free plan allows the interior spaces to flow more freely, while a free façade means the exterior is no longer dictated by the building’s structure. Long horizontal ribbon windows flood the rooms with light, while the roof terrace opens the house to the sky and draws fresh air back into the heart of the house.

A ramp runs through the centre of the building from the entrance all the way to the roof terrace, creating what Le Corbusier called an architectural promenade, with changing views as you move through the house.

The curved ground-floor wall was designed partly around the turning circle of the Savoyes’ car, allowing it to drive underneath the house. You can see the inside of the curve in the photo above, while the first two photos show it from the outside.

The First Floor of Villa Savoye

The journey through the house was deliberately choreographed. Each room, staircase or passage feels like a carefully curated piece of art. Above, you can see the entrance to the main terrace, showing the glass wall of the salon to the right.

The salon was one of my favourite rooms in Villa Savoye. I love the wall of glass overlooking the main terrace and my mind lights up imagining how it must have looked furnished.

Stairs leading up to the solarium and roof terrace.

At times, the beauty of Villa Savoye lies in its simple elegance, as with the second bathroom (above) and the study (below).

There are some wonderfully unexpected details inside, including the upper floor’s open bathroom, with its curved blue-tiled tub, built-in chaise longue, and skylight.

I would have spent long, languid days here, relaxing in the steam and basking in the rays from the skylight.

The Main Terrace and Roof of Villa Savoye

The roof was intended as a garden and solarium, rather than simply a roof. The photo above is taken from the main terrace, looking into the salon.

From the main terrace, a ramp ascends to the solarium in two sections, offering expansive views across the rooftop.

Almost there. Can you tell it was a really hot day? This was the week temperatures in Paris hit 40°c. A bit more on temperatures and Villa Savoye below.

The Solarium of Villa Savoye

Le Corbusier believed the elevated garden gave the occupants a better view of the surrounding landscape than being down at ground level.

When the house was built, this window offered uninterrupted views of the landscape in the distance, but the view is now obscured by the growth of the surrounding trees. Their greenery is a welcome sight in modern times, even if it has come at the expense of the original view.

I wonder if the solarium ever looked lush and green, or was it always battered by the elements?

We exited the solarium and took the stairs down to the first floor.

The Exterior Elevations of Villa Savoye

The North-East Facade of Villa Savoye

Despite being celebrated as a masterpiece of modern architecture, the house was ultimately unliveable. It suffered from water penetration and poor thermal performance, becoming too hot in summer and too cold in winter. The flat roof proved particularly problematic, as you can see from those poor weather-beaten plants.

The South-East and North-East Facades of Villa Savoye

The Savoye family eventually stopped using the house. By 1937, Eugénie Savoye was describing it as uninhabitable, and the villa was eventually abandoned by the family around the beginning of the Second World War.

The South-East Facade of Villa Savoye

Villa Savoye was threatened with demolition in the 1950s. An international campaign by architects, including Le Corbusier himself, helped save it, and it was eventually bought by the French state.

The South-West and South-East Facades of Villa Savoye

Villa Savoye was designated a Monument Historique in the mid-1960s and was included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing of Le Corbusier’s architectural work in 2016.

The South-West Facade of Villa Savoye

The front, or north-west facade of Villa Savoye, is pictured in the first photo above, showing the turning circle on the ground floor.

Today, Villa Savoye is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am to 5pm between September and April and 10am to 6pm between May and August. Admission is €9, with free entry for under-18s and eligible 18–25-year-olds. For those aged 18–25, free entry applies to EU nationals and regular non-European residents of France.

Shoo. We finally reach the end. This post took weeks (weeks!) to draft and began as what I thought would be a quick post. That was another reason for my silence in September, in addition to being busy. I hope you enjoyed the post as much as I enjoyed visiting Villa Savoye and writing about it.

Swimming in St George's Bay, Symi

2026-09-27T19:12:08.882+01:00

I have so much to tell you about my busy summer of travelling, and I'm not sure where to begin. Perhaps it would be best to start with one of the most beautiful places we discovered.

St George's Bay, on the tiny island of Symi, which lies north-west of Rhodes.

After an incredible day exploring Symi, our boat took a detour into the bay on the way home, and it was a beautifully tranquil end to the day. The bay feels wonderfully remote, with its towering cliffs, clear blue water and near silence.

Despite bringing along our swimming costumes, we opted not to get in the water with the rest of our tour. It seemed very cold and far too deep for me!

Instead, we stayed on the upper deck, gazing across the bay and taking in the magnificent beauty surrounding us. The view in the photo above is now my phone lock screen, which shows just how much I loved it.

We stood transfixed as a boat slowly began to make its way into the bay, watching it get closer against that extraordinary backdrop.

I wish I could bottle up that feeling and somehow pass it on to you, because it was one of those rare moments when everything felt completely calm and lovely.

A perfect end to a perfect day.

Summer in Canterbury: Crooked Houses, the Stour & Cathedral

2026-08-11T08:30:00.000+01:00

I’ve only been to Canterbury once before and I wasn’t overly impressed with my photos because it was a dull and cloudy spring day. I finally got the chance to return during one of our summer heatwaves in June. It’s been a long, hot summer in my little corner of England, and I find myself unable to be more specific about which heatwave it was. The good news is that the sun was shining and the skies were blue, two ingredients which always seem to improve my photos.

We started our day on The King’s Mile, looking up to appreciate the beautiful half-timbered houses, many with overhanging upper floors, and lingering in the independent shops that line this historic stretch.

Despite heavy bombing during the Second World War, when parts of Canterbury were badly damaged, many of the city’s historic buildings survived or were carefully restored, making these medieval streets even more special to explore.

We happened upon the delightfully quirky Catching Lives Bookshop. Dating from the 17th century, this famously crooked house is said to have shifted after a supporting beam was removed, giving it the wonderfully wonky appearance it has today. We chatted to volunteer Sarah in the bookshop, who was a veritable mine of fascinating local history and information. She showed us the secret steel beams that help support the building and stop it from falling over.

We wandered further into Canterbury and caught our first glimpse of the Cathedral, looking resplendent in the sunshine.

As we found our way to Canterbury’s winding lanes, we came across filming that was taking place and took a moment to capture the Sun Hotel before we were allowed to pass. This ancient hotel has welcomed travellers since the 15th century and is one of Canterbury's oldest inns.

We arrived at Christ Church Gate, built between 1504 and 1520, and the grand entrance to the cathedral complex. The gate was partially covered in scaffolding during our last visit and I was delighted to see it looking so good.

After pottering about in Mercery Lane, we decided to take a look inside.

Canterbury Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the most senior bishop in the Church of England, which is headed by the King. It is best known as the site of Archbishop Thomas Becket's murder in 1170, an event that changed English history.

As is my usual habit, I took way too many photos inside the cathedral and probably need a dedicated post. We spent some time in the Nave, listening to the local guides and watching people set up for a schools’ evensong event. We timed our visit really well!

Becket's magnificent shrine once stood in the Quire, drawing thousands of medieval pilgrims before it was destroyed on the orders of Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, leaving only the empty space you see today. (I know, I’m always going on about old Henry and his dastardly acts – perhaps I should do a map one day).

After a quick lunch in the centre, we headed out to the river Stour in hopes of cooling down a bit. I might have taken a few snaps of the punters and passengers on the waterways. How many is too many?

We walked into Westgate Gardens which was such a cool relief from the scorching hot day.

It was so lovely to see people out and about enjoying the weather, especially after the very wet spring we had.

As we walked along the river, we happened upon this excellent view of Westgate Tower.

Westgate Tower is England's largest surviving medieval city gate and once formed part of Canterbury's defensive walls. Nowadays, sections of the city walls can still be explored, although we decided to save that for another visit as we were heading to Leeds Castle afterwards.

As we walked back to the car, we lingered on the streets and took in the sights.

I’m so pleased that I revisited Canterbury and promised myself not to leave it another 17 years next time.

As we exited the city, we passed the Old Synagogue. Built in 1848, it is one of the country's finest Egyptian Revival buildings and ceased functioning as a synagogue in the 1930s. Today, it is primarily used by The King’s School, Canterbury as a music recital and performance hall.

Parking Advice (& Not Paying Over the Odds) in Canterbury

We had the loveliest day in Canterbury and leave only one piece of advice: be careful where you park and ensure that you choose your parking duration carefully. We originally paid for two hours, which wasn’t quite enough. When we tried to extend our stay, we were charged another £15 on top of the original £5, making it a rather expensive parking lesson!

I’d recommend paying for at least four hours parking and recommend the following carparks which advertise four hours for £7.60: Riverside, Holman's Meadow and Castle Street. Canterbury East Rail Station is also a good option at £6.80 for four hours parking but their car park is smaller and may have limited availability.

Going On A Bear Hunt in Dartford

2026-07-19T16:10:11.885+01:00

Finally! After months of waiting, a brand new art trail has arrived in Dartford and, as you know, I love an art trail.

After walking with the Snowman, trailing Morph, tracking down the Books About Town and finding every single one of the London 2012 Olympic mascots, it's time to put my super sleuth skills to work in my own hometown.

The Dartford Bear Hunt – 17 July to 13 September 2026

Bearly Bee-Having by Ali Elly | Dartford Bear Hunt

This art trail means a lot to me for two reasons. First, it's a Bear Hunt and my mum absolutely adored bears. Second, it's sponsored by Ellenor, the local hospice charity we supported after my mum passed away. With that in my heart, I headed out on Friday for the first part of the Dartford Bear Hunt trail and I am pleased to say: my mum would have loved this.

Toffee Bear Cub by Wilmington Primary School | Dartford Bear Hunt

The trail has been created to raise money for Ellenor Hospice, with many of the sculptures due to be auctioned once the event finishes.

There are 31 Big Bears, 51 Bear Cubs and 1 special book bench across Dartford town centre and Bluewater Shopping Centre. I only managed to track down around a quarter of them on my first outing. I thought I’d take the time to tell you a bit more about my hometown, alongside some of my favourite bears I've tracked down so far. Thankfully, I have the entire summer to complete the quest!

Echoes of Dartford by Henrika & Barbora Stasiule | Dartford Bear Hunt

Each of this bear's honeycomb cells contains a historic photograph of Dartford.

Blum by Ana Zoob | Dartford Bear Hunt

Blum stands in front of Holy Trinity Church, a Grade I listed building with Norman origins dating to around 1080. The church's original Norman tower still survives and today houses a ring of eight bells, which can be heard on special occasions and during the weekly bell-ringing practice every Thursday evening.

Dartford Central Park is my happy place and I love that they let the wildflowers thrive in the botanical gardens each summer.

Bear in Bloom by Amy Wormald | Dartford Bear Hunt

Pastoral by Stephen Oliver | Dartford Bear Hunt

Local artist and gallery owner Stephen Oliver's Pastoral bear stands in front of the bandstand in Central Park, where we have free concerts every Sunday in the summer.

Buccaneer Bear by Mik Richardson | Dartford Bear Hunt

Buccaneer Bear poses at the entrance to Buccaneer Bay, Dartford's free pirate-themed children's play area, complete with a pirate ship. I was especially proud of myself for avoiding children in this photo.

Wander Bear by Gemma O'Malley | Dartford Bear Hunt

You can just make out the Dartford Museum and Library behind Wander Bear.

Teddy-Bears Picnic by Megan Spencer | Dartford Bear Hunt

There will be a real live Teddy Bear's Picnic this year on 5 August 2026. Admission per child is £10 including a lunch box and activity pack, or £7 with no lunch box.

Mick Jagger & Keith Richards with the Sir Peter Blake Bear | Dartford Bear Hunt

On 17 October 1961, 18-year-old Mick Jagger and 17-year-old Keith Richards met at Platform 2 of Dartford train station. Richards was intrigued by the R&B and blues records Jagger was carrying and sparked up a conversation with him. Amy Goodman designed the statues above, titled “The Glimmer Twins”.

Sir Peter Blake Bear by Jack Bennett | Dartford Bear Hunt

Sir Peter Blake was born in Dartford and is widely regarded the Godfather of British Pop Art. He co-designed the iconic Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover and remains one of the town's greatest cultural icons.

He's Such a Sweety by Lynne Hollingsworth | Dartford Bear Hunt

This was my final find before stepping into Costa for an ice cold iced matcha. It was a hot and sticky day but I was delighted to have tracked down so many of the bears. I'll need to travel up to Bluewater soon to see more of them and there are still plenty more in Dartford for me to find too.

Tips for Visiting the Dartford Bear Hunt

It is best to travel by train or bus into Dartford rail station or Greenhithe rail station (for Bluewater)
If you travel by car, Acacia Car Park and Westgate Car Parks are the best choice. Always make sure you read and understand parking conditions in Dartford – even locals get caught out!
Download the official app for £1.99 to track all the bears and unlock rewards. All proceeds go to Ellenor.

Six Days of Alpine Magic via the Bernina Express

2026-06-14T10:00:00.000+01:00

Our journey from Zurich to Milan via the Bernina Express was one of the most memorable I’ve ever taken. The idea came from my lovely friend Trish who originally conceived it as an extreme day trip. Her itinerary was meant to last twenty-four hours, but when she realised she couldn't possibly pass through Lake Como without lingering awhile, it became three days and two nights. As I read about her trip, I thought: this would make a wonderful, slow five-night journey. So I hatched a plan for festive cheer, cheese, and Alpine relaxation in November with my goddaughter Keira.

Our Route

1 night in Zurich
1 night in Chur
The Bernina Express (panoramic train journey)!
2 nights in Tirano
Lunch stop in Varenna
1 night in Milan

Zurich

We arrived on a Thursday afternoon in late November, which is the perfect week to arrive as it marked the opening of Zurich's many Christmas markets. After a cosy afternoon of pastries and hot chocolate at Bäckerei Hug on Stauffacher, we returned to our hotel to warm up before heading out into Zurich's festive streets.

Top tip for Zurich: if you have enough time, definitely book ahead for the Lindt Home of Chocolate which is as heavenly as it sounds.

Visit Zurich’s Sechseläutenplatz Christmas Market

Our first stop was the Christmas market at Sechseläutenplatz, where we enjoyed the atmosphere while sipping hot apple cider with rum.

Eat Out at Zurich’s Raclette Factory in Rindermarkt

Dinner was booked at the Raclette Factory in Rindermarkt. I opted for raclette with blue cheese and white wine, served over potatoes. It was delicious, though far simpler than the raclette I'd previously enjoyed with German friends.

Stay at a Women’s Only Hotel in Zurich

We stayed at the Josephine's Guesthouse, a women's only guesthouse with a wonderful community feel. We had a very spacious twin room with en-suite bathroom.

Chur

After breakfast on the Friday morning, we took a long walk before catching the train to Chur from Zurich Hbf. The journey was lovely as we travelled out of the city and past snowy scenery. The first thing we noticed in Chur was how very, very cold it was.

Top tip for Chur: there is free transport around Chur for all hotel guests in the city. Ask your hotel to register you for the Chur Guest Card ahead of your stay and all local trains and buses will be free.

Have a Drink at Hemingway Bar in Chur Old Town

After checking in, we made our way to the old town for dinner. It was -18°C outside, and we were horrified to be turned away for arriving twenty minutes early, even though Restaurant Franziskaner was half empty. We enjoyed a drink in the lovely, warm, welcoming Hemingway bar next door before returning to the restaurant.

Eat Cheese Fondue at Restaurant Franziskaner

I had a delicious Fondue de la Gruyère with Gruyère cheese and Yvorne white wine, served with bread and potatoes, while Keira opted for a giant pork schnitzel.

Stay at Ibis Chur

I honestly can’t recommend the staff at this hotel highly enough. They allowed us to check-in early, arranged for our free travel around the city, leant us Swiss plugs to charge our devices and assured us we’d get breakfast before daybreak the next morning. Most importantly, they gave us all the details we needed to catch the bus to Chur main station the following morning. It’s a short 8 minute ride that is practically door to door.

Take the Bernina Express to Tirano Italy

Of course, there was one reason we'd come this way at all: the Bernina Express panoramic train.

Tirano

Tirano is a small Lombard town ringed by snow-capped mountains. After checking in to our hotel and freshening up, we headed out for lunch.

Sample Lombard Cuisine at Merizzi

The food at Merizzi is exquisite and the restaurant is located on the main road just outside the train station. I enjoyed Paccheri with pumpkin and ragu, a local, seasonal delight.

Relax with a Spa Afternoon in Tirano Old Town

After lunch, we wandered into the old town for a spa afternoon at the Hotel Centrale complete with massages, sauna, steam room and sensory showers. This was such a welcome relief after a couple of days travelling and exploring and we slept so well that night!

Walk, Read & Relax in Tirano

Many travellers continue straight on to Milan after arriving on the Bernina Express. Keira and I decided to do the opposite and spend an extra day doing very little at all. We spent the day reading in our apartment, popping downstairs to the Caffe Dell Angolo every now and again for pastries and their delicious cioccolata calda (hot chocolate made from melted dark chocolate). We went for a long walk and enjoyed a meal of local breads, cheese and meats in our hotel that evening.

Stay at Bernina Express Eco Rooms & Breakfast

Somehow, because we are the luckiest girls alive, we booked a twin room in Tirano but were upgraded to a two room apartment, complete with sitting room and full kitchen. For the third time on our trip, we received superb service, were allowed to check-in early and had an excellent breakfast on both mornings.

Varenna

The time had sadly come to leave Tirano and head to Milan. After loving Bellagio and Villa Melzi on my last visit, I wanted Keira to have a Lake Como lunch treat in Varenna.

Enjoy Lunch With Views of Lake Como

On a very rainy Monday in November, we struggled to find open restaurants. Fortunately, we discovered Nilus Bar, where we were seated beneath a patio heater and treated to spectacular views over Lake Como and the mountains beyond. I had enjoyed my Paccheri with pumpkin and ragu so much that I ordered a very similar dish again, this time with a creamy pumpkin sauce.

Milan

By evening, the mountains had given way to city streets as we continued by rail to Milan for the final night of our adventure.

Sip Cocktails at Penelope a Casa

After checking in and freshening up, we headed out to Penelope A Casa near Porto Romana for the most expensive cocktails I’ve ever purchased - €25 each! It was worth it for the ambiance and service.

Explore Milan

On the final morning of our trip, we spent some time exploring Milan, including visits to Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. I wrote about our Milan adventures back in 2013, and I’m pleased to report that the city is just as beautiful as I remember.

One piece of advice I can’t stress enough: book ahead if you want to see The Last Supper. I neglected to do so this time, and despite travelling in the off-season in November, we were unable to get tickets!

Milan highlights:

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – Instagram friendly and free
Sforza Castle – boasting a stranger-than-fiction history
Museo D'arte Antica – featuring an unfinished Michaelangelo sculpture
The Dominican Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie – featuring Leonardo’s Last Supper
The Duomo Di Milano – beautiful inside and out

Stay at JR Hotels Bocconi Milan

It’s safe to say we were weary when we arrived in Milan but the Bocconi Milan was perfect. It boasted the most comfortable bed of our stay, with a reasonably-sized room and en-suite bathroom, all for an excellent price. It is located near Porto Romana.

I hope you’ve enjoyed what was such a lovely five night trip from Switzerland to Italy on the Bernina Express. With Christmas markets, Alpine railways, snowy mountain towns, Lake Como, and more cheese than any reasonable person could consume, it remains one of my favourite trips to date.