Emm in London

Summer in Canterbury: Crooked Houses, the Stour & Cathedral

2026-08-11T08:30:00.000+01:00

I’ve only been to Canterbury once before and I wasn’t overly impressed with my photos because it was a dull and cloudy spring day. I finally got the chance to return during one of our summer heatwaves in June. It’s been a long, hot summer in my little corner of England, and I find myself unable to be more specific about which heatwave it was. The good news is that the sun was shining and the skies were blue, two ingredients which always seem to improve my photos.

We started our day on The King’s Mile, looking up to appreciate the beautiful half-timbered houses, many with overhanging upper floors, and lingering in the independent shops that line this historic stretch.

Despite heavy bombing during the Second World War, when parts of Canterbury were badly damaged, many of the city’s historic buildings survived or were carefully restored, making these medieval streets even more special to explore.

We happened upon the delightfully quirky Catching Lives Bookshop. Dating from the 17th century, this famously crooked house is said to have shifted after a supporting beam was removed, giving it the wonderfully wonky appearance it has today. We chatted to volunteer Sarah in the bookshop, who was a veritable mine of fascinating local history and information. She showed us the secret steel beams that help support the building and stop it from falling over.

We wandered further into Canterbury and caught our first glimpse of the Cathedral, looking resplendent in the sunshine.

As we found our way to Canterbury’s winding lanes, we came across filming that was taking place and took a moment to capture the Sun Hotel before we were allowed to pass. This ancient hotel has welcomed travellers since the 15th century and is one of Canterbury's oldest inns.

We arrived at Christ Church Gate, built between 1504 and 1520, and the grand entrance to the cathedral complex. The gate was partially covered in scaffolding during our last visit and I was delighted to see it looking so good.

After pottering about in Mercery Lane, we decided to take a look inside.

Canterbury Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the most senior bishop in the Church of England, which is headed by the King. It is best known as the site of Archbishop Thomas Becket's murder in 1170, an event that changed English history.

As is my usual habit, I took way too many photos inside the cathedral and probably need a dedicated post. We spent some time in the Nave, listening to the local guides and watching people set up for a schools’ evensong event. We timed our visit really well!

Becket's magnificent shrine once stood in the Quire, drawing thousands of medieval pilgrims before it was destroyed on the orders of Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, leaving only the empty space you see today. (I know, I’m always going on about old Henry and his dastardly acts – perhaps I should do a map one day).

After a quick lunch in the centre, we headed out to the river Stour in hopes of cooling down a bit. I might have taken a few snaps of the punters and passengers on the waterways. How many is too many?

We walked into Westgate Gardens which was such a cool relief from the scorching hot day.

It was so lovely to see people out and about enjoying the weather, especially after the very wet spring we had.

As we walked along the river, we happened upon this excellent view of Westgate Tower.

Westgate Tower is England's largest surviving medieval city gate and once formed part of Canterbury's defensive walls. Nowadays, sections of the city walls can still be explored, although we decided to save that for another visit as we were heading to Leeds Castle afterwards.

As we walked back to the car, we lingered on the streets and took in the sights.

I’m so pleased that I revisited Canterbury and promised myself not to leave it another 17 years next time.

As we exited the city, we passed the Old Synagogue. Built in 1848, it is one of the country's finest Egyptian Revival buildings and ceased functioning as a synagogue in the 1930s. Today, it is primarily used by The King’s School, Canterbury as a music recital and performance hall.

Parking Advice (& Not Paying Over the Odds) in Canterbury

We had the loveliest day in Canterbury and leave only one piece of advice: be careful where you park and ensure that you choose your parking duration carefully. We originally paid for two hours, which wasn’t quite enough. When we tried to extend our stay, we were charged another £15 on top of the original £5, making it a rather expensive parking lesson!

I’d recommend paying for at least four hours parking and recommend the following carparks which advertise four hours for £7.60: Riverside, Holman's Meadow and Castle Street. Canterbury East Rail Station is also a good option at £6.80 for four hours parking but their car park is smaller and may have limited availability.

Going On A Bear Hunt in Dartford

2026-07-19T16:10:11.885+01:00

Finally! After months of waiting, a brand new art trail has arrived in Dartford and, as you know, I love an art trail.

After walking with the Snowman, trailing Morph, tracking down the Books About Town and finding every single one of the London 2012 Olympic mascots, it's time to put my super sleuth skills to work in my own hometown.

The Dartford Bear Hunt – 17 July to 13 September 2026

Bearly Bee-Having by Ali Elly | Dartford Bear Hunt

This art trail means a lot to me for two reasons. First, it's a Bear Hunt and my mum absolutely adored bears. Second, it's sponsored by Ellenor, the local hospice charity we supported after my mum passed away. With that in my heart, I headed out on Friday for the first part of the Dartford Bear Hunt trail and I am pleased to say: my mum would have loved this.

Toffee Bear Cub by Wilmington Primary School | Dartford Bear Hunt

The trail has been created to raise money for Ellenor Hospice, with many of the sculptures due to be auctioned once the event finishes.

There are 31 Big Bears, 51 Bear Cubs and 1 special book bench across Dartford town centre and Bluewater Shopping Centre. I only managed to track down around a quarter of them on my first outing. I thought I’d take the time to tell you a bit more about my hometown, alongside some of my favourite bears I've tracked down so far. Thankfully, I have the entire summer to complete the quest!

Echoes of Dartford by Henrika & Barbora Stasiule | Dartford Bear Hunt

Each of this bear's honeycomb cells contains a historic photograph of Dartford.

Blum by Ana Zoob | Dartford Bear Hunt

Blum stands in front of Holy Trinity Church, a Grade I listed building with Norman origins dating to around 1080. The church's original Norman tower still survives and today houses a ring of eight bells, which can be heard on special occasions and during the weekly bell-ringing practice every Thursday evening.

Dartford Central Park is my happy place and I love that they let the wildflowers thrive in the botanical gardens each summer.

Bear in Bloom by Amy Wormald | Dartford Bear Hunt

Pastoral by Stephen Oliver | Dartford Bear Hunt

Local artist and gallery owner Stephen Oliver's Pastoral bear stands in front of the bandstand in Central Park, where we have free concerts every Sunday in the summer.

Buccaneer Bear by Mik Richardson | Dartford Bear Hunt

Buccaneer Bear poses at the entrance to Buccaneer Bay, Dartford's free pirate-themed children's play area, complete with a pirate ship. I was especially proud of myself for avoiding children in this photo.

Wander Bear by Gemma O'Malley | Dartford Bear Hunt

You can just make out the Dartford Museum and Library behind Wander Bear.

Teddy-Bears Picnic by Megan Spencer | Dartford Bear Hunt

There will be a real live Teddy Bear's Picnic this year on 5 August 2026. Admission per child is £10 including a lunch box and activity pack, or £7 with no lunch box.

Mick Jagger & Keith Richards with the Sir Peter Blake Bear | Dartford Bear Hunt

On 17 October 1961, 18-year-old Mick Jagger and 17-year-old Keith Richards met at Platform 2 of Dartford train station. Richards was intrigued by the R&B and blues records Jagger was carrying and sparked up a conversation with him. Amy Goodman designed the statues above, titled “The Glimmer Twins”.

Sir Peter Blake Bear by Jack Bennett | Dartford Bear Hunt

Sir Peter Blake was born in Dartford and is widely regarded the Godfather of British Pop Art. He co-designed the iconic Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover and remains one of the town's greatest cultural icons.

He's Such a Sweety by Lynne Hollingsworth | Dartford Bear Hunt

This was my final find before stepping into Costa for an ice cold iced matcha. It was a hot and sticky day but I was delighted to have tracked down so many of the bears. I'll need to travel up to Bluewater soon to see more of them and there are still plenty more in Dartford for me to find too.

Tips for Visiting the Dartford Bear Hunt

It is best to travel by train or bus into Dartford rail station or Greenhithe rail station (for Bluewater)
If you travel by car, Acacia Car Park and Westgate Car Parks are the best choice. Always make sure you read and understand parking conditions in Dartford – even locals get caught out!
Download the official app for £1.99 to track all the bears and unlock rewards. All proceeds go to Ellenor.

Six Days of Alpine Magic via the Bernina Express

2026-06-14T10:00:00.000+01:00

Our journey from Zurich to Milan via the Bernina Express was one of the most memorable I’ve ever taken. The idea came from my lovely friend Trish who originally conceived it as an extreme day trip. Her itinerary was meant to last twenty-four hours, but when she realised she couldn't possibly pass through Lake Como without lingering awhile, it became three days and two nights. As I read about her trip, I thought: this would make a wonderful, slow five-night journey. So I hatched a plan for festive cheer, cheese, and Alpine relaxation in November with my goddaughter Keira.

Our Route

1 night in Zurich
1 night in Chur
The Bernina Express (panoramic train journey)!
2 nights in Tirano
Lunch stop in Varenna
1 night in Milan

Zurich

We arrived on a Thursday afternoon in late November, which is the perfect week to arrive as it marked the opening of Zurich's many Christmas markets. After a cosy afternoon of pastries and hot chocolate at Bäckerei Hug on Stauffacher, we returned to our hotel to warm up before heading out into Zurich's festive streets.

Top tip for Zurich: if you have enough time, definitely book ahead for the Lindt Home of Chocolate which is as heavenly as it sounds.

Visit Zurich’s Sechseläutenplatz Christmas Market

Our first stop was the Christmas market at Sechseläutenplatz, where we enjoyed the atmosphere while sipping hot apple cider with rum.

Eat Out at Zurich’s Raclette Factory in Rindermarkt

Dinner was booked at the Raclette Factory in Rindermarkt. I opted for raclette with blue cheese and white wine, served over potatoes. It was delicious, though far simpler than the raclette I'd previously enjoyed with German friends.

Stay at a Women’s Only Hotel in Zurich

We stayed at the Josephine's Guesthouse, a women's only guesthouse with a wonderful community feel. We had a very spacious twin room with en-suite bathroom.

Chur

After breakfast on the Friday morning, we took a long walk before catching the train to Chur from Zurich Hbf. The journey was lovely as we travelled out of the city and past snowy scenery. The first thing we noticed in Chur was how very, very cold it was.

Top tip for Chur: there is free transport around Chur for all hotel guests in the city. Ask your hotel to register you for the Chur Guest Card ahead of your stay and all local trains and buses will be free.

Have a Drink at Hemingway Bar in Chur Old Town

After checking in, we made our way to the old town for dinner. It was -18°C outside, and we were horrified to be turned away for arriving twenty minutes early, even though Restaurant Franziskaner was half empty. We enjoyed a drink in the lovely, warm, welcoming Hemingway bar next door before returning to the restaurant.

Eat Cheese Fondue at Restaurant Franziskaner

I had a delicious Fondue de la Gruyère with Gruyère cheese and Yvorne white wine, served with bread and potatoes, while Keira opted for a giant pork schnitzel.

Stay at Ibis Chur

I honestly can’t recommend the staff at this hotel highly enough. They allowed us to check-in early, arranged for our free travel around the city, leant us Swiss plugs to charge our devices and assured us we’d get breakfast before daybreak the next morning. Most importantly, they gave us all the details we needed to catch the bus to Chur main station the following morning. It’s a short 8 minute ride that is practically door to door.

Take the Bernina Express to Tirano Italy

Of course, there was one reason we'd come this way at all: the Bernina Express panoramic train.

Tirano

Tirano is a small Lombard town ringed by snow-capped mountains. After checking in to our hotel and freshening up, we headed out for lunch.

Sample Lombard Cuisine at Merizzi

The food at Merizzi is exquisite and the restaurant is located on the main road just outside the train station. I enjoyed Paccheri with pumpkin and ragu, a local, seasonal delight.

Relax with a Spa Afternoon in Tirano Old Town

After lunch, we wandered into the old town for a spa afternoon at the Hotel Centrale complete with massages, sauna, steam room and sensory showers. This was such a welcome relief after a couple of days travelling and exploring and we slept so well that night!

Walk, Read & Relax in Tirano

Many travellers continue straight on to Milan after arriving on the Bernina Express. Keira and I decided to do the opposite and spend an extra day doing very little at all. We spent the day reading in our apartment, popping downstairs to the Caffe Dell Angolo every now and again for pastries and their delicious cioccolata calda (hot chocolate made from melted dark chocolate). We went for a long walk and enjoyed a meal of local breads, cheese and meats in our hotel that evening.

Stay at Bernina Express Eco Rooms & Breakfast

Somehow, because we are the luckiest girls alive, we booked a twin room in Tirano but were upgraded to a two room apartment, complete with sitting room and full kitchen. For the third time on our trip, we received superb service, were allowed to check-in early and had an excellent breakfast on both mornings.

Varenna

The time had sadly come to leave Tirano and head to Milan. After loving Bellagio and Villa Melzi on my last visit, I wanted Keira to have a Lake Como lunch treat in Varenna.

Enjoy Lunch With Views of Lake Como

On a very rainy Monday in November, we struggled to find open restaurants. Fortunately, we discovered Nilus Bar, where we were seated beneath a patio heater and treated to spectacular views over Lake Como and the mountains beyond. I had enjoyed my Paccheri with pumpkin and ragu so much that I ordered a very similar dish again, this time with a creamy pumpkin sauce.

Milan

By evening, the mountains had given way to city streets as we continued by rail to Milan for the final night of our adventure.

Sip Cocktails at Penelope a Casa

After checking in and freshening up, we headed out to Penelope A Casa near Porto Romana for the most expensive cocktails I’ve ever purchased - €25 each! It was worth it for the ambiance and service.

Explore Milan

On the final morning of our trip, we spent some time exploring Milan, including visits to Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. I wrote about our Milan adventures back in 2013, and I’m pleased to report that the city is just as beautiful as I remember.

One piece of advice I can’t stress enough: book ahead if you want to see The Last Supper. I neglected to do so this time, and despite travelling in the off-season in November, we were unable to get tickets!

Milan highlights:

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – Instagram friendly and free
Sforza Castle – boasting a stranger-than-fiction history
Museo D'arte Antica – featuring an unfinished Michaelangelo sculpture
The Dominican Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie – featuring Leonardo’s Last Supper
The Duomo Di Milano – beautiful inside and out

Stay at JR Hotels Bocconi Milan

It’s safe to say we were weary when we arrived in Milan but the Bocconi Milan was perfect. It boasted the most comfortable bed of our stay, with a reasonably-sized room and en-suite bathroom, all for an excellent price. It is located near Porto Romana.

I hope you’ve enjoyed what was such a lovely five night trip from Switzerland to Italy on the Bernina Express. With Christmas markets, Alpine railways, snowy mountain towns, Lake Como, and more cheese than any reasonable person could consume, it remains one of my favourite trips to date.

Colours & Street Art of Southend

2026-05-31T10:19:49.147+01:00

Last week we lost our dear friend Liz after a lengthy battle with cancer. She was just 43. It doesn't seem real at the moment and my heart breaks for her husband, father, sisters and the many friends she has left behind.

Many years ago, Liz started a book club at her home and over time, those meetups became so much more. I feel very privileged to count those book club girls amongst my best friends now and we've seen each other through love and heartbreak, career changes, children, weddings and loss.

Liz was also a blogger and I always admired her sunny, happy, relentlessly optimistic outlook on life. Even through the hardest times, she had a way of finding joy and sharing it with the people around her. She was such an inspiration.

We shared so many adventures over the years, and our final one was a girls' weekend away in Southend in February. I'll always remember the colour of that weekend: the street art, the ride on the pier railway, the superb Thai meal, and the laughter we shared. Those memories feel especially precious now.

Right now, I feel bereft and a little adrift. But alongside the sadness is a feeling I can't shake: that I need to live life as fully as I can, for all the people we've loved and lost who no longer have that chance. I'm inviting gratitude and grace into my life and I'm making a promise to keep exploring, to keep noticing the beauty in the world, and to celebrate the extraordinary privilege of being here on this little blue planet.

Fun fact: Southend Pier is officially recognized by Guinness World Records as the longest pleasure pier railway in the world, stretching 1,889.8 metres (6,200 feet) along Southend Pier, which itself is the world's longest pleasure pier, extending 1.34 miles (2.16 km) into the Thames Estuary.

Visiting Kirkstall Abbey: Medieval Ruins by the River Aire

2026-05-16T10:00:00.000+01:00

On a sunny spring morning in March, we hopped on a bus from Leeds city centre and headed to Kirkstall Abbey. Our first glimpse of the ruins came from the top deck of the double-decker bus, and it did not disappoint. The abbey hardly needs flowers or blue skies to enhance its beauty, but the daffodils put on a spectacular show that day.

The abbey was founded in 1152 by the Cistercian order and was built over several decades.

Much of the stonework that survives today dates from the 13th century.

It was dissolved in 1539 during Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries, and over the years much of the stone was removed for local building projects.

Despite that, the ruins still feel remarkably grand.

The grounds are free to wander and so we did exactly that, strolling along and enjoying the sunny day.

Of course, it was Leeds in spring and it was actually very cold indeed, think hat, scarf and big winter coat-cold.

As we made our way around, I realised that I very much wanted to go inside the ruins.

You can pay what you can to explore inside the abbey itself, which I think is a wonderfully inclusive thing to do. If I had to choose a favourite photo from that day, I think it would be the one above.

Walking through the arches and along the old cloisters, you can really picture the life of the monks who lived here centuries ago.

The gothic arches and light spilling through the windows of the old Chapter House proved to be very popular amongst visitors.

The abbey sits beside the River Aire, no doubt a very strategic location chosen in the 12th century.

The site is exceptionally well-maintained by Leeds City Council and it’s one of the most-intact ruins I have visited.

You’re really able to get a true sense of the scale of the abbey and it is impossible not to appreciate the skill required to build structures that have endured for centuries despite Henry VIII’s attempts to destroy them.

Henry VIII really has a lot to answer for. (Side note: I’ve been to see Six: The Musical three times, twice with my mum. It is such a great stage production!)

The abbey is a popular location for TV and films.

This summer, the abbey will be host to the Live at Kirkstall Abbey 2026 series, featuring two weekends of music including The Streets (24 July), Sunshine Underground (25 July), The Maccabees (31 July), and Loyle Carner (1 Aug). I very much hope that festival-goers respect the site!

With one last look at the ruins of the old guest house, we wandered across the road to the Abbey House Museum, which I’ll revisit in a later post.

Kirkstall Abbey
Abbey Road
Kirkstall
Leeds
LS5 3EH