Welcome to my annual Dubai restaurant guide, the eleventh edition, with a personal headline of where I dine out.

This is NOT one of those contentious ‘best of’ lists, but simply a round-up of the restaurants I have chosen to frequent socially, for my reviews, or for my dining experiences over the last year – and that I hope to continue to visit.

Whether you’re a UAE resident or a visitor, I have crafted this guide as a bucket list round-up to inspire your next breakfast, lunch or dinner. That’s how I use it.

With Dubai’s unbearable traffic coupled with prioritising a healthy lifestyle, I promised myself that I would be very selective on where I dine out over the last year – and when I do, mostly on weekends – so this guide is by no means exhaustive.

As always, all 40 featured restaurants are homegrown, locally developed concepts serving every cuisine under the sun, including several new openings and new entries.

These predominately chef-led and owner-operated, independent establishments tick every box in equal measure – food, service, interior, atmosphere, location and value for money – in line with my no-freebies editorial policy where I always pay the bill.

Sometimes I don’t even snap photos – typically an indicator of a bloody good time!

They have all consistently impressed across the whole à la carte dining experience, allowing you to eat as much or as little as you want, according to your budget. And hence you won’t find tasting menu concepts here.

A handful of restaurant experiences disappointed, and needless to say, don’t feature.

Entries are categorised by licensed (with alcohol) and unlicensed (dry/ sans booze), sub-divided into districts, and then alphabetically.

Those who sign up to my newsletter for a full paid subscription, will receive this guide as a downloadable PDF, as well as my personal Google Maps link with all 40 restaurants mapped out – and as the year progresses, updated with new discoveries.

If you’re after bespoke tips and foodie itineraries, then check out the FooDiva restaurant recommendations service or my Restaurant Whisperer Substack subscription offer. To experience some of these restaurants with yours truly as a host, I curate dining experiences. For other handy tips, My Little Pink Lifestyle Book is regularly updated.

I am keen to know your haunts, so please feel free to share – and we can all expand our restaurant repertoire.

LICENSED

Bluewaters Island

Alici: An Amalfi-inspired seafood restaurant made for leisurely lunches on the upstairs terrace. The three anchovy ‘alici’ dishes are must-eats – marinated, deep-fried, or with spaghetti – as is the sea urchin pasta. All paired with picture-worthy views and a striking coastal décor. Walk off lunch or dinner with a stroll across the pedestrian footbridge from Bluewaters to JBR Walk soaking up the scenic skyline.

The Spaniel: A British brasserie for old-school classics like chicken Kiev oozing with garlic butter, Scotch egg, and steak tartare – as well as all-day weekend roasts.

Dubai Marina

Bistro Des Arts: This quintessential Parisian bistro on Dubai Marina’s promenade offers a genuine taste of classic French fare with go-to plates of escargots, steak tartare and crêpes Suzette.

Tamoka: Latin-American meets Caribbean restaurant Tamoka, with, very importantly, pork on the menu. Don’t miss the melted provolone with ‘nduja. A dedicated, slick team runs this hotel-operated show at Ritz-Carlton JBR Walk.

The Beam: Chef Nick Alvis’ expansive European brasserie in the Royal Meridien JBR. The starters, in particular, are utterly compelling. Venison tartare with smokey egg yolks and anchovies, I am eyeing you up.

JLT

Lana Lusa: I am delighted this Portuguese gem has opened a licensed branch in JLT at the So Uptown hotel, closer to my end of town. Helmed by a Lisboeta chef Helio Lino, you can eat your heart out on bacalhau…and pasteis de nata.

Mythos: Greek restaurateur-siblings Fay and Alex Economides own this Grecian white-washed taverna. Long-standing head chef Ilias Kokoroskos with his wife Eva as general manager, both also from Greece serve traditional meze, pork included, paired with a well-priced Hellenic wine list. There’s a second licensed branch with a gorgeous terrace at City Walk, sans pork though. I have cut down on ordering in over the last year, but if I do, the sibling, Kilikio at Depachika is my go-to for healthy Greek fare.

Palm Jumeirah

Chez Wam: Named after the French slang for chez moi, Chez Wam is French chef Hadrien Villedieu’s playground for modern French cooking with a nod to Japanese influences. Atop the St Regis Gardens Palm Jumeirah.

TagoMago: The lighthouse-style design ensures a serving of breeze at this stellar Spanish tapas restaurant. Don’t miss the orange-stuffed olives; the Gilda bluefin tuna à la San Sebastián’s pintxo bars; the squid ink paella; AND the flan dessert.

The Maine Beach House: Seasoned restaurateur and Dubai kid Joey Ghazal’s sixth branch of his popular restaurant concept inspired by America’s ‘New England’ coastline. A joyous al fresco lunch setting (with no blaring playlist on a Sunday) at the Vista Mare beach-fronted complex.

Umm Suqeim

Flamingo Room: You can’t visit this African restaurant by the Tashas group at Jumeirah Al Naseem without ordering the calamari Mozambique – one of Dubai’s most iconic dishes. Mixed with squid heads in a lemon butter peri-peri sauce – and topped with a mound of shoestring fries.

Taverna Greek Kitchen: This Greek restaurant lives up to its taverna name with a casual, rustic décor and expansive boardwalk. Greek chef Thodoris Rouvas ensures classic, authentic dishes including the slow-barbequed lamb shoulder and a fresh fish display – all at a wallet-friendly price point.

Barsha

CQ Brasserie: The OG in JLT is now overtaken by its new opening sibling in Barsha Heights (at the Grand Millennium Hotel) because it’s slightly closer to me and boasts a terrace. Oh and the menu is identical. Signature steak frites of course..and even a kir royale with crème de cassis freshly pressed on the spot.

Xu: An independent Chinese by the Rikas Group at Kempinski MOE. The crispy shrimp cheung fun and Peking duck are mandatory orders.

Dubai Hills

Moli by Shi: Another Chinese option for you in a different district. Go here for the duck, choosing one of two cooking styles – roasted Peking presented table-side, or the crispy Cantonese bird.

Reif Japanese Kushiyaki: Singaporean chef-restaurateur Reif Othman’s licensed restaurant. Reif is a creative soul, constantly adding new dishes to his tick-your-own-order menu.

Business Bay & Downtown Dubai

Cocina Tres: Independently operated modern Mexican restaurant with a fun vibe at Pullman Dubai Downtown. The tortillas for the tostadas and tacos are freshly made daily inhouse, hand-ground from Oaxacan heirloom corn.

Girl & the Goose: Nicaraguan chef Gabriela Chamorro turned her sell-out supper clubs into an independent restaurant at Anantara Downtown reimagining Central American cuisine, a first for Dubai.

Time Out Market Dubai: A food hall in Souk Al Bahar with 17 best-in-class Dubai concepts, whilst a terrace overlooks Burj Khalifa and the magical fountains.

City Walk

Nola: The upscale City Walk sibling of the OG in JLT. New Orleans, Southern-style fare. Your three course meal should kick off with baked filo-wrapped Camembert, followed by maple-syrup-marinated lamb chops, and culminate with pillowy, sugar-dusted beignets.

DIFC

Avli: A cavern-cum-temple to modern Greek dining. A test of any Greek kitchen is the execution of feta saganaki – and Avli’s, with crisp honey-drizzled filo is the city’s best, rivalling those in Greece. I taught myself to bake it – no mean feat.

Boca: A restaurant that embraces a sustainability ethos across the whole operation. A Spanish and broader Med menu built around local ingredients pairs with a wine list dedicated to natural, organic and biodynamic bottles, with many from the Middle East’s wine-growing countries.

La Nina: An Iberian-cum-Latino menu at this ICD Brookfield Place restaurant. Creative fare that is fuss-free, delivering on style AND substance. Save room for the flan-meets-crème caramel dusted with 12-month aged Manchego.

Yubi: The licensed Japanese handroll bar by chef and co-owner Reif Othman famed for his Reif Japanese Kushiyaki brand. As per Mr S, “Why would anyone go to Zuma when you can come here for a more affordable and fun experience.”

Wafi

The Nine: Go here for a Sunday roast lunch with protein of your choosing. Prime rib-eye of beef. English Dingley Dell pork with a cracker of a crackling. Giant Yorkies. Cauliflower cheese croquettes. And a triumph of an apple pie.

UNLICENSED/ DRY (WITHOUT ALCOHOL)

JLT

Bait Maryam: A Palestinian owner-operated gem in JLT by chef-owner Salam Daqqaq. Traditional dishes from Palestine and the broader Levant region whether breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Palm Jumeirah

Vietnamese Foodies: No one makes a better pho (pronounced like the French word for fire, feu) in town. Eight branches across Dubai, with the outlet at Palm Jumeirah Mall (formerly Nakheel Mall) as my go-to.

Barsha

The Lighthouse: If you’re after healthy Mediterranean fare in Mall of the Emirates away from the white noise of the main thoroughfare, head upstairs to the Apple Atrium. I never fail to order the grilled aubergine with minced lamb.

Umm Suqeim 2

21grams: Founder Stasha Toncev brings her Serbian roots to this charismatic Balkan bistro with both Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa views. The all-day breakfast plates, burek and phyllo pies are legendary.

Al Fannah: Forget Bu’Qtair and instead head next door to this unassuming joint in Umm Suqeim 2 fishing harbour for South Indian seafood. Order the fried prawns, grilled sheri fish and warm, flakey parathas – all incredibly moreish.

Arabian Tea House: Whilst the tourists flock to the instagrammable Bastakiya branch, I prefer the teeny kiosk in Umm Suqeim 2 right on the beach, with the Burj to the left. My go-to dishes are the sumptuous breakfast trays, and lumi-marinated lamb tikka kebabs. The name is a nod to the free-flow black tea served in dainty Arabian glass teacups.

Blu Pizzeria: A teeny menu of solely six wood-fired sourdough Neapolitan pizzas. That’s all you need. At the the Umm Suqeim 2 fishing harbour. Walk-ins only.

Hugo’s Grill: A tiny Argentinian grill house gem on Jumeirah Beach Road with affordable steak cuts.

Lila Taqueria: Chef and co-founder Shaw Lash serves up honest Mexican food, far removed from commercial Tex-Mex cuisine in this teeny gem on the Umm Suqeim 3 end of Jumeirah Beach Road. Tacos are hand-pressed using masa dough, ground daily from native heirloom corn. There’s also a second location with larger premises, Lila Molino at Alserkal.

Sham Farms: Right next door to Hugo’s sits a Syrian butcher-cum-restaurant known for his variations of nayyeh (raw meat), the Levantine version of beef tartare – whether kibbeh, kufta, or my favourite habra (sans bulgur).

Jumeirah 3

Odeon: A gleaming white multi-storey villa on Jumeirah Beach Road houses an Aladdin’s cave of French deli fare, and a restaurant with a rooftop terrace – under the helm of French chef-owner Thomas Duhamel and his wife Morgane. The menu features a collaborative dish with Hani aka Bedouin Foodie of a now-viral French onion soup burger.

Jumeirah 2

3Fils: The game-changing restaurant that set a trend for chef-led unlicensed gems. Small plates of modern Japanese fare in the picturesque, al fresco setting of Jumeirah Fishing Harbour. The same restaurateurs also operate another go-to in the same harbour, Bordomavi for seafood with a twist.

Jumeirah 1

11 Woodfire: Wood-fired cooking in a dining room with the vibe of a licensed restaurant, yet no alcohol need pass your lips.

Iranish: Growing up in Cyprus, I ate Persian fare regularly thanks to my bestie’s mama, and coupled with a visit to Tehran and Esfahan years ago, this fragrant, hearty cuisine is hugely nostalgic for me. Iranish by Iranian chef-owner Amin Ebra in the Wasl 51 complex serves my go-to, classic dishes. Ashe reshteh noodle soup; kashk e badmejoon aubergine dip; and the signature looti polo of skewered lamb kebabs and raw egg yolk, all mixed into saffron rice.

Three Bros: Don’t go here expecting casual, comfort food from the Orfali brothers’ latest baby in the same Wasl 51 courtyard as the OG, Orfali Bros Bistro (which now only offers a tasting menu and hence does not feature here). You won’t find Dubai clichés of burrata, ceviche and truffle oil, but you will find real deal truffle, caviar…and burgers. A refined, fuss-free take on soul food oozing umami flavour.

FooDiva. x

Sometimes I give restaurants a second chance

The former executive chef of The Maine Group, Saradhi Dakara’s new restaurant Orilla reviewed. The definition of restaurant criticism. How I select openings that are ripe for review.

From Mexico to France. Two new Dubai restaurants reviewed.

Cocina Tres and Maison Mer. Homegrown concepts, of course.

Is Kraken all it’s cracked up to be?

I couldn’t resist this clichéd idiom for a headline. Chef Gregoire Berger’s new seafood restaurant reviewed.

Is Middle Child worth the queue?

Plus…Lana Lusa opens a third licensed branch. Bull & Bear’s Sunday roast.

A trio of new restaurant openings reviewed

Yubi. Three Bros. Piehaus.

NOTE: This post is updated monthly.

I am always astonished at the vast number of people who don’t realise Cyprus, my home, has been a divided island since 1974 when Turkey invaded – commonly referenced as the ‘Cyprus Problem’, with the ‘Green Line’, a UN buffer zone as our border. We refrain from labelling the Mediterranean island as south and north, given there’s only one legally recognised country – the Republic of Cyprus.

My birthplace of Famagusta on the east coast, a mostly shelled ghost town to this day, has been Turkish occupied ever since. I was one year old at the time, and with my parents (thanks to my British father), we were evacuated on a nine-hour Hercules flight to the UK. My mother’s parents and two sisters managed to escape to Nicosia, now the last officially divided capital city in the world, where they had to rebuild their lives – as did we in the UK and Caribbean for six years before returning to Cyprus for my schooling and the birth of my sister.

If you’re after more intel on our ‘problem’, here’s an impartial and succinct Reuters report of the key issues published on the 50th anniversary last year. And for a little more historical context, have a read here.

Moving onto happier subjects – food and travel. For the first time since moving to Dubai (from London) 26 years ago, I have my own summer abode in Cyprus making it easier to spend substantial time exploring the island.

We’re the third largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily and Sardinia) – and about the same size as Lebanon, which means planning is required to decide where to explore. As per the last census, our population has yet to hit one million – we’re at 920,000. A handy breakdown on Cyprus’ key destinations here.

To fully appreciate and experience Cyprus’ love for food, one has to head off the beaten track, steering well clear of the island’s hugely, and sadly, commercialised resorts (which boast gorgeous beaches by the way). That’s not easy when as a visitor, you want to stroll out of your hotel into a neighbourhood brimming with restaurants. If you do, you will, mostly, be seriously disappointed. A hire car is money well spent.

To ease the research, I have compiled my largest culinary travel guide to date covering the Republic of Cyprus with headings for tried and tasted restaurants, tavernas, cafés, bars, wineries – alongside trademark dishes and produce to look out for, local wine recommendations, and boutique hotels. All wrapped up in my very own personal Google maps link with 125+ recommendations, which I will update as I uncover new spots.

Before we kick in, nothing expresses summer on a plate in Cyprus more than watermelon, often paired with halloumi. Here are three shades of watermelon in solidarity with our Palestinian neighbours.

Click HERE for a very long read.

On the back of multiple requests to recommend private dining rooms, known as PDRs in our industry lingo, I have scoured Dubai’s homegrown restaurants and compiled this guide. Whether you’re looking to book a celebratory social meal, a corporate team function or even a masterclass, these venues should provide some inspiration.

So…I give you 25 private dining rooms across 19 very diverse restaurants in Dubai, with some even boasting two PDRs. I’ve included capacity/ covers, menu pricing, minimum spend if required, differentiating factors, photos, location and links to their websites. All in alphabetical order.

With my event organiser hat, I curate private personal and corporate functions, should you need some support – more info here.

If you know of any more PDRs, please feel free to share, so I can regularly update this guide.

Click HERE to read.

A decade after opening Marina Social for Jason Atherton, accomplished Scottish chef Tristin Farmer has returned to Dubai following his five-year tenure at three-Michelin Zén in Singapore.

He’s now helming a new Dubai-born concept as culinary director and chef partner for a Singaporean business, Culinary Arts Group.

Maison Dali at The Opus by Omniyat hotel in Business Bay is pitched in the press release and on the website as: “a laid-back brasserie with character, where Japanese ingredients and techniques meet Mediterranean flavours. This innovative dining experience immerses guests in culinary artistry. Every element – food, drink, service and decor – is meticulously curated to transport diners into a world of imagination.”

Meanwhile, the name “draws inspiration from Salvador Dalí’s surrealism and mirrors the personality of Tristin Farmer,” – and the ambience “constantly surprises, transforming dining in Dubai into a captivating work of art.”

On the flip side, the dictionary definition of brasserie dictates “an informal, usually French restaurant, serving simple hearty food.”

In today’s review, I am addressing all these differing messages; how they translate into the dining experience; and determining whether they serve to complement or conflict.

I am utterly relieved to have reviewed incognito from start to finish.

Click HERE to read.

The hostess escorts us to our semi-banquette table, sandwiched so tightly between two tables, LPM-style, we can hear every word of the neighbouring conversation. I request another table for two that I spot with a little more room in the middle of a busy dining room, but I am politely told that’s reserved for an anniversary. Soon after we are seated and presented with the menus, the hostess returns to guide us to my desired table. My cover is blown. This kind of table hierarchy happens more often than not across many a Dubai restaurant, sadly. I just hope I didn’t rob the “anniversary couple” of a decent table.

We’re dining at Girl & The Goose by Nicaraguan chef Gabriela Chamorro who has whisked her home supper club of five years to a bricks and mortar restaurant, replacing the Peruvian, Waka, in the Anantara Downtown Hotel (ex-Oberoi). She’s partnered with Rosy Hospitality of CQ French Brasserie and Couqley fame.

Central American cuisine is a first for Dubai and for me, spanning Nicaragua, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Costa Rica, Belize and Panama. Countries that I have never visited even though I spent the early years of my life growing up in the neighbouring Caribbean islands. There’s a little known fact about me! The geography is well illustrated with a map on the menu and on the website, which is one of the most informative and user-friendly restaurant sites I have come across in Dubai. A best practice blueprint for restaurateurs.

Gabriela or Gigi, her nickname, is quick to point out in person (also confirmed on her website) that the menu marries her modern interpretation of Central American cuisine with her travel experiences as ex-Emirates crew. Only one dish is traditional, and despite its northern neighbour Mexico which I have visited, the cooking differs, she explains.

So how does Girl & The Goose fare across not solely food, but service, interior, atmosphere and price point? Thankfully, I pay the bill in full – with no freebie extras sent to the table.

Click HERE to read the review.

From when I first started reviewing, 14 years ago, I have always insisted that Dubai needs modern Emirati restaurants for the dining scene to be taken seriously on the global culinary map. More recently, international awards by Michelin and 50 Best feed into the bucket lists of visitors, and we want these guests to seek out Emirati cuisine as their first port of call – as should we, as residents. Traditional concepts like Al Fanar and Arabian Tea House, as wonderful as these are, are not enough.

Well we now have one such restaurant. Gerbou.

The PR is quick to point out in an email: “While it is not authentic Emirati cuisine, the food served reimagines Emirati-inspired cuisine through a modern lens and while embracing global influences and celebrating local craftsmanship.”

To me and you, that’s short form for “modern Emirati cuisine.”

Having dined at Gerbou exactly six weeks after opening (escaping any recognition), the menu is much broader, spanning Khaleeji dishes, as well as influences from across the Arab world – entwined into both classics and contemporary fare.

In fact, the consultant chef and a poster child for Emirati cooks, the talent that is Sahar Parham Al Awadhi did explain in an interview for my Conde Nast Traveler USA, UK & Middle East feature end of last year that the menu weaves in “Indian, Levantine and Mediterranean flavours” which she grew up with. Indeed it does.

And that’s all perfectly fine and necessary to maximise the appeal to a global palate. However, some have vocalised publicly online, and in private to me, the lack of cuisine authenticity. There’s a lesson here in managing expectations better with the right communication on Gerbou’s website and social channels, as well as by the front-of-house team. Now you know.

Gerbou is a collaboration between restaurateurs Atelier House Hospitality, most well known for 11 Woodfire – and Tashkeel, Dubai’s art and design incubator helmed by Sheikha Lateefa bint Maktoum.

The name translates to “welcome to our humble abode.” But there’s nothing humble about the grandest of entrances.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE REVIEW.

I struggle with many tasting menus, especially in Dubai. Why?

Sky-high price points. For one imported concept here, the exact same menu is AED400 more expensive than its home country.

Three to four hours (and sometimes more) of my life that I will never get back, thanks to snail-pace dining.

Long-winded storytelling for every single, bloody dish. I really don’t care if the chef’s grandma, or a jaunt to an obscure corner of the world have inspired the cooking. I can read about all that, and more, on the website. I just want to eat my food. In peace. And preferably warm. Unless we’re feasting on sushi and sashimi. But even then, the tale must be kept to a minimum. There’s only so much inane chatter I can stomach.

Good food should speak for itself.

And then along comes Manao. An affordable, by Dubai standards, of AED450 for an 11-course tasting menu. Served in one and a half hours. A printed menu on the table, from arrival. Something several of these concepts don’t give you until, dare I say, the bitter end. A succession of different staff members explained the dishes, succinctly in seconds. The chef only popped out once to briefly present a dish, swiftly scuttering back to the open-plan kitchen. You wouldn’t even know he was the chef, unless you had stalked his good looks on Instagram.

Chef Abhiraj Khatwani is the [handsome] Indian chef whose cooking expertise was honed in north-east Thailand before opening The Yellow Monkey, a casual Thai gem at JBR that I used to frequent years ago until Covid shut its doors. Mohamad Orfali of Orfali Bros Bistro fame, the Midas touch chef has backed him to open a 34-seat restaurant in Wasl Vita, solely dedicated to a Thai-inspired tasting menu.

I first tried to book Manao at the end of January via the website’s reservations link, but the earliest availability for a table of two was a month away. I really did not want to wait that long, so a few days later, on the 3rd February, I checked again, and found a slot for Saturday 15th February at 8pm. Manao must have had a cancellation. Hurrah. Booked! Under a pseudonym, as always.

So how does our dining experience fare – the food, service, interior and atmosphere, amongst other parameters?

CLICK HERE FOR MORE.

My annual Dubai restaurant guide celebrates its tenth edition, so with this milestone, change is afoot. The restaurants featured are those that I choose to frequent socially, some more often than others. I blame Dubai’s insane traffic. All under a new, personal headline: Where FooDiva Dines in Dubai.

47 homegrown, locally developed concepts have made my cut this year. Another record. We’re incredibly lucky that chefs and restaurateurs from every continent around the world have planted roots in Dubai, eyeing up market gaps to translate their culinary traditions into independent, intimate restaurants away from lavish hotels. All blending together like a flawless hollandaise to realistically represent this city that is home to over 200 nationalities.

Dubai still has a habit of entertaining celeb chefs on royalty gigs and franchised restaurant brands – but the emirate’s most intriguing dining concepts are cultivated by homegrown talent serving every cuisine under the sun. Palestinian maqlouba. Lebanese kibbeh nayeh. Filipino adobo. Balkan burek. Greek saganaki. French beef tartare. Peruvian ceviche. Indian dosas. Mexican tacos. All proudly displayed on menu after menu across the city, from cheap, cheerful eats to pricey, polished dining.

These predominately chef-led and owner-operated, independent establishments tick every box in equal measure – food, service, location, interior, atmosphere and value for money – in line with my no-freebies editorial policy where I always pay the bill. They have all consistently impressed across the whole à la carte dining experience, allowing you to eat as much or as little as you want, according to your budget. You won’t find tasting menu concepts or beach clubs in this guide, but you will find my go-to restaurants for delivery.

Whether you’re a UAE resident or a visitor, this guide is designed as a bucket list round-up to inspire your next breakfast, lunch or dinner. That’s how I use it. Entries are categorised by licensed (with alcohol) and unlicensed (sans booze), sub-divided into districts, and then alphabetically.

If you sign up to my newsletter for a paid subscription, not only will you receive this guide as a PDF, but my personal Google Maps link with all 47 restaurants mapped out.

If you’re after bespoke tips and foodie itineraries, then check out the FooDiva restaurant recommendations service or my Restaurant Whisperer Substack subscription offer. To experience some of these restaurants first hand, I organise dining experiences. For other handy tips, My Little Pink Lifestyle Book is regularly updated.

I am keen to know your haunts, which may just inspire my restaurant outings this year – so please feel free to share.

LICENSED

Bluewaters Island

Alici: An Amalfi-inspired seafood restaurant made for leisurely lunches on the upstairs terrace. The three anchovy ‘alici’ dishes are must-eats – marinated, deep-fried, or with spaghetti – as is the sea urchin pasta. All paired with picture-worthy views and a striking coastal décor. Walk off lunch or dinner with a stroll across the pedestrian footbridge from Bluewaters to JBR Walk soaking up the scenic skyline.

The Spaniel: A new-ish British brasserie by the team behind Rivi (Rivington Grill), Ivy and Marina Social. Weekend roasts for all-day dining, as well as old-school classics like chicken Kiev oozing with garlic butter; Scotch egg; and steak tartare.

Dubai Marina

Bistro des Arts: This gem on Dubai Marina Mall’s promenade transports diners to a quintessential Parisian bistro offering a genuine taste of classic French fare with go-to plates of escargots, steak tartare and crêpes Suzette.

JB’s: Our ‘local’ gastropub. At Amwaj Rotana on JBR Walk. The roast pork belly and Scotch egg, amongst the plethora of cooked pork dishes, has everything to do with it.

Tamoka: Latin-American meets Caribbean restaurant Tamoka; a sundowner beach bar Cana; and a food truck Cana-van. With, very importantly, pork on the menu. Don’t miss the melted provolone with ‘nduja. A dedicated, slick team runs this hotel-operated show at Ritz-Carlton JBR Walk.

JLT

Hawkerboi: A modern twist on hawker stall fare, mainly Malaysian, Thai and Indonesian. Buzzing, boisterous vibe guaranteed.

Mythos: Greek restaurateur-siblings Fay and Alex Economides own this Grecian white-washed taverna. Long-standing head chef Ilias Kokoroskos with his wife Eva as general manager, both also from Greece serve traditional meze, pork included, paired with a well-priced Hellenic wine list. A second, larger licensed restaurant with a dreamy terrace sits at City Walk – sans pork.

Media City

Marini: I discovered this Italian restaurant on my Media City doorstep after a recommendation from an Italian foodie, and it has since become a neighbourhood favourite. Quite how it has bagged an alcohol licence is beyond me, but Mr S is very grateful. An expansive all-day menu, breakfast included.

Palm Jumeirah

Chez Wam: Named after the French slang for chez moi, Chez Wam is French chef Hadrien Villedieu’s playground for modern French cooking with a nod to Japanese influences. Atop the St Regis Gardens Palm Jumeirah.

Ibn Al Bahr: My go-to restaurant at the Club Vista Mare complex on Palm Jumeirah’s eastern shoreline – a Lebanese seafood tavern. Choose fish from the daily catch on display, along with a selection of meze plates from the à la carte, and enjoy a meal on the terrace, or even the sand, soaking up vitamin sea.

TagoMago: The lighthouse-style design ensures a serving of breeze at this stellar Spanish tapas restaurant. Don’t miss the orange-stuffed olives; the Gilda bluefin tuna à la San Sebastián’s pintxo bars; the squid ink paella; AND the flan dessert.

Umm Suqeim

Sushiyaki: This casual, independent gem at Souk Madinat abides by its portmanteau of sushi and yakitori – the latter served on mini charcoal grills. A terrace setting overlooks the waterway.

Taverna Greek Kitchen: This Greek restaurant, next door, by the same restaurateur, lives up to its taverna name with a casual, rustic décor and expansive boardwalk. Greek chef Thodoris Rouvas ensures classic, authentic dishes including the slow-barbequed lamb shoulder and a fresh fish display – all at a wallet-friendly price point.

Barsha

Xu: My new go-to independent Chinese. At Kempinski MOE. The crispy shrimp cheung fun and Peking duck are mandatory orders.

Dubai Hills Business Park

Pitfire: We can now enjoy these Roman-Neapolitan hybrid wood-fired pizzas with delicious hot honey margaritas. And famed garlic knots, of course.

Reif Japanese Kushiyaki: Maverick Singaporean chef-restaurateur Reif Othman’s licensed restaurant. Reif is a creative soul, constantly adding new dishes to his tick-your-own-order menu. Thankfully, my favourite dish, the baked avocado with seaweed butter and teriyaki sauce remains a constant feature. His venture into Korean cuisine, Hoe Lee Kow, sits in the same complex, whilst the OG at Dar Wasl remains.

Pearl Jumeirah

Bungalo34: Al fresco, beach-fronted dining, independently operated by Tashas Group at Nikki Beach Hotel. A Mediterranean concept that dares to do something different in a sea of copycat approaches – like the warm salmon carpaccio and grilled calamari in lemon butter sauce. Paired with, likely, the best playlist in town.

City Walk

Nola: The upscale City Walk sibling of the OG in JLT. New Orleans, Southern-style fare. Your three course meal should kick off with baked filo-wrapped Camembert, followed by maple-syrup-marinated lamb chops, and culminating with the fluffiest, most pillowy, sugar-dusted beignets in town.

Downtown Dubai

Jun’s: Progressive fusion cuisine by Chinese-American chef Kelvin Cheung. A menu with intriguing ingredient and flavour combinations that, unusually for high-end restaurants, caters for many a dietary requirement.

Time Out Market Dubai: A food hall in Souk Al Bahar with 17 best-in-class Dubai concepts, whilst a terrace overlooks Burj Khalifa and the magical fountains. The breadth of menus is overwhelming, so I would use the app to help decide in advance, which also saves time with online ordering and payment.

DIFC

Avli: A cavern-cum-temple to modern Greek dining. A test of any Greek kitchen is the execution of feta saganaki – and Avli’s, with crisp honey-drizzled filo is the city’s best, rivalling those in Greece. I taught myself to bake it – no mean feat.

BB Social Dining: This owner-operated townhouse of a restaurant hidden in DIFC feels like a cosy speakeasy, with a Far-Eastern menu. The plump, pillowy bao buns, freshly baked in-house daily are Dubai’s best. The ground floor terrace makes for pretty conservatory-style surroundings.

Boca: A sustainability-driven restaurant, hugely deserving of its Michelin green star. A Spanish and broader Med menu sits alongside a mammoth wine list dedicated to natural, organic and biodynamic bottles, with many from the Middle East’s wine-growing countries. The working wine cellar makes for an intimate private gathering.

Josette: A French restaurant in ICD Brookfield Place. Classics with a teeny twist – from the snails with garlic almond butter, and pan-fried seabass with ‘fish scale’ potato slivers, to the tableside flambé finale of crêpes Josette with blood orange. I expect it’s the sole restaurant in Dubai to boast an affordable white-labeled house Champagne. All interwoven with extraordinary entertainment.

La Nina: Chef Tim Newton has engineered an Iberian-cum-Latino menu with his Portuguese head chef Ricardo Gonçalves at another ICD Brookfield Place restaurant. Tim has a knack for turning out creative fare that is fuss-free, delivering on style AND substance. Refreshing to see oxtail on the menu; braised for 48 hours. The star dish? A flan-meets-crème caramel dusted with 12-month aged Manchego. Tim has always excelled at pastry, unusual for executive chefs, and would do well to consider a dessert-only concept.

Sheikh Zayed Road

Opa: The only Greek restaurant in Dubai to offer plate smashing, a tradition no longer prevalent in Greece, which adds to the atmosphere. The menu may pay homage to mostly modern Greek fare, however, Ottoman influences do creep through. An intimate setting in Fairmont Dubai.

Wafi

The Nine: This pub at the Sofitel Obelisk is our favourite for a Sunday roast lunch when you’re desperate for pork. It’s all about the Yorkies (Yorkshire puddings) whether with beef, as tradition dictates – or any protein – all of which are on the menu here. The prime rib-eye of beef hails from Canada, whilst the English pork is showered with love from Dingley Dell, evident in the tender meat. And the crackling is simply put – a cracker – as are the cauliflower cheese croquettes. Make sure to leave room for the piping hot and ridiculously moreish apple pie.

UNLICENSED (WITHOUT ALCOHOL)

JLT

Bait Maryam: A Palestinian owner-operated gem in JLT by chef-owner Salam Daqqaq. Traditional dishes from Palestine and the broader Levant region whether breakfast, lunch or dinner. Last summer, she opened a second, more plush restaurant, Sufret Mayram in Wasl 51 complex.

Fusion Ceviche: Head to this teeny gem for ceviches galore but stay for the beef empanadas made with love from a recipe by Peruvian chef-patron Penelope Diaz’ grandma.

Dubai Marina

Kooya: Tucked away in the depths of Dubai Marina sits an enchanting bistro serving a genuine taste of Filipino food by chef-owner and brand ambassador for all things Philippines, JP Anglo.

Barsha

Maisan15: A Middle Eastern café in the depths of Barsha by Emirati-Yemeni Rami Farook – with head chef Rita Soueidan, a Palestinian-Jordanian, bred in the UAE on the pass.

The Lighthouse: If you’re after healthy Mediterranean fare in Mall of the Emirates away from the white noise of the main thoroughfare, head upstairs to the Apple Atrium. I never fail to order the grilled aubergine with minced lamb. The concept store with quirky gifting items and novel cookbooks will pull at purse strings. There are three more branches in Dubai – the original licensed restaurant in D3; Nakheel Mall; and recently opened at Dubai Hills Business Park, also with booze.

Umm Suqeim

21grams: Founder Stasha Toncev brings her Serbian roots to this charismatic Balkan bistro in the residential Umm Suqeim neighbourhood. The all-day breakfast plates (Brunch Bestie, I am looking at you), phyllo pies and burek are legendary. A terrace offers both Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa views.

Al Fannah: Forget Bu’Qtair and instead head to this small unassuming joint in neighbouring Umm Suqeim 2 fish harbour for South Indian seafood. Order the fried prawns, grilled sheri fish and warm, flakey parathas – all incredibly moreish.

Blu Pizzeria: A teeny menu of solely six wood-fired sourdough Neapolitan pizzas. That’s all you need. At the fishing harbour in Umm Suqeim 3. Walk-ins only.

Lila Wood-Fired Taqueria: Chef and co-founder Shaw Lash may hail from Texas, however she serves up honest Mexican food, far removed from commercial Tex-Mex cuisine in this teeny gem on the Umm Suqeim 3 end of Jumeirah Beach Road. Tacos are hand-pressed using masa dough, ground daily from native heirloom corn. A second restaurant, Lila Molino has opened at Al Serkal.

Jumeirah 3

Odeon: A gleaming white multi-storey villa on Jumeirah Beach Road houses an Aladdin’s cave of French deli fare, and a restaurant with a rooftop terrace – under the helm of French chef-owner Thomas Duhamel and his wife Morgane. I often order platters of oysters (pre-shucked), king prawns and crab for at-home entertaining.

Jumeirah 2

3Fils: Small plates of modern Japanese fare in the picturesque, al fresco setting of Jumeirah Fishing Harbour. Footsteps away by the same Emirati restaurateurs sits Bordo Mavi for quirky seafood dishes – and Brix Café for a roll call of inventive desserts from pastry chef extraordinaire Carmen Rueda Fernandez.

Khadak: The ex-chef director of Dishoom, Naved Nasir, has relocated to Dubai to open his first restaurant here – a modern Indian concept with no similarities to his old stomping ground. Instead, traditional soul food recipes are elevated with a refined, lighter cooking style to create a flurry of modern Indian dishes in a sprawling Jumeirah villa.

Lana Lusa: Lana Lusa continues its stellar Portuguese job in the new Four Seasons Residences overlooking Dubai Canal. Don’t miss the salted cod with scrambled eggs and matchstick fries.

Three by Eva: Jordanian mama Eva and her two daughters run this charming, two-storey villa café on Al Wasl road, serving classic and contemporary Palestinian-Jordanian dishes. At AED75, you’ll spot the most affordably priced bone marrow in town – and the most generous portion.

Jumeirah 1

11 Woodfire: Wood-fired cooking by new head chef Brando Moros in a dining room with the vibe of a licensed restaurant, yet no alcohol will pass your lips.

Itadaku: A traditional Japanese restaurant in the Wasl Vita Mall complex by chef Masaru Sakagami. To help choose from the mammoth menu, sit at the sushi counter and the chefs, Masaru included, will recommend their favourites.

La Fabbrica Focacceria Italiana: It took me a while to make my way to this Italian-owned joint in Wasl 51, but all good things come to those who wait. Focaccia galore aside, visit for the spaghetti cacio e pepe, the best I have ever eaten in Dubai. Demolished in minutes.

Orfali Bros Bistro: Chef-owner Mohamad Orfali and his two pastry chef brothers are on the pass daily for their bijou bistro that has topped the MENA’s 50 Best list for two consecutive years. Expect playful Middle Eastern fare with a nod to their Syrian heritage. With two of the brothers as pastry chefs, the dessert counter is a prominent feature. Be sure to indulge in the caviar-topped ‘doughnut’.

Osteria FunkCoolio: By chef Akmal Anuar, the ex-chef patron of 3Fils that kickstarted the Dubai trend for unlicensed chef-led restaurants. In the riviera-style complex of Port De La Mer. The ‘itameshi’ cuisine veers towards innovative Italian dishes with a nod to Japan and its premium ingredients.

Bastakiya

Arabian Tea House: Good Emirati fare is, sadly, hard to come by in Dubai – but if you dig deep, you’ll uncover Arabian Tea House. Of the city’s four locations, the Bastakiya branch is the prettiest and where the tourists flock (read Instagrammable). My go-to dishes are the grilled halloumi, sumptuous breakfast trays, and lamb kebabs marinated in lumi (black lime). The name is a nod to the free-flow black tea served in dainty Arabian glass teacups. Or for breathtaking creekside rooftop views, sibling Arabian Fish House with a Levantine-style seafood menu.

RESTAURANT DELIVERY

When I eat at home, I tend to prefer cooking to ordering in – but if I do go down the delivery route, other than some of the restaurants already mentioned, here are my go-tos. All have bricks-and-mortar locations.

• Chinese: The Peking duck with pancakes at Han Cuisine can only be ordered direct. Sells out quickly, so plan ahead.
• Greek: Kilikio by the Mythos team in Depachika Food Hall on Palm Jumeirah. The cabbage dolma avgolemono is my go-to dish.
• Lebanese: Allo Beirut for the beef shawarma laced with tahini, and low-carb kebab boxes.
• Pho (pronounced feu please!): Vietnamese Foodies.
• Quiche: A new food truck at Ripe Market Quiche ‘N Croque dedicated to quiche baking and croque toasties. By a French chef. Delivery by slice or whole pies. Buttery, flakey shortcrust pastry of dreams. The Scottish salmon with leek, dill and crème fraîche is my fave.
• Salads, all of them: Zaatar W Zeit.
• Steaks: Steaks are the easiest dish to cook at home – but if I don’t have meat in my fridge or freezer, I will order from Couqley for its famous steak with addictive sauce and frites. Its build-your-own salad is also a winner.
• Sushi: Sumo Sushi & Bento and Sushi Art. The latter’s beautifully presented boxes are perfect for home entertaining.
• Thai: Fuchsia for healthy Thai fare.
• Tray bakes (and whole cakes): Roseleaf Café for casual home entertaining.

A bientôt.

FooDiva. x

When I heard that the ex-chef director of the sensation that is Dishoom, one of my go-to restaurants in the UK, had moved to Dubai to open his own concept, I had an inkling Khadak would impress. Chef-patron Naved Nasir helped the founders conceptualise Dishoom, engineered the menu, and co-authored the bestselling cookbook, which, interestingly, is on display at Khadak.

Click HERE to read this restaurant review.