Orchard Creek Farm

DIY / Homemade Horse Products - Updated!

2026-05-25T09:06:52.870-04:00

These are my various home-made concoctions that I have found very useful to use around the farm. Please note that I may earn a commission from Amazon links, but I don't recommend any products that I don't whole heartedly endorse!

For the Coat

Fly Spray:

I find the very best and cheapest fly spray to take care of my 7 horses is Apple Cider Vinegar. I frequently add a bit of Healthy Haircare to condition the coat, and sometimes a drop of Pyrethrin concentrate (link to the one I use. Some others have additional very toxic ingredients). You can add essential oils (I'd recommend Lemongrass, Cedar, Eucalyptus, Rosemary, Citronella, or Geranium), but this mostly just increases the cost of your fly spray.

Another trick I read about was to boil a strong tea and use that. I did try this once, adding some clippings from my rosemary and wormwood plants. It did a decent job of repelling flies temporarily, but in all honesty, the apple cider vinegar works the best!

Antifungal / Drying Powder:

You can use this to help dry sweat spots on a horse you can't bathe or rinse, to help cure rainrot, or even as a shoe / boot powder (which I do all the time... I have a fear of spiders living in my barn shoes!). I don't have exact measurements, but here is a general guideline:

Okay, here is my secret for detangling knotty manes and tails.... forget your Cowboy Magic, Show Sheen, and other silicone-based products. Find the ethnic hair care section of your local store and pick up some Luster's Pink lotion. Make sure you get the original and not the "light" version. I suspect it's the high lanolin content, but I have tried numerous other products, and this is the one that works best! When I need to detangle some knots or burrs, this stuff works better than anything! I have actually tried many hair care products for ethnic and African hair types on the horses, but have yet to find one that works as well as this.

Probably coming in second place for detangling a problem area is WD-40. There is a silicone version that works like magic. It also adds a lovely sheen. However, I can't vouch for how safe this stuff is to use... I suspect it's not a great idea to have frequent skin contact with a petroleum-based product (although I could be totally wrong, I'm not a scientist, I just play one at home and on my blog).

General moisturizing:

I frequently make my own all purpose mane & tail lotion by mixing some Pink lotion, cheap hair conditioner, water, and Healthy Haircare. Other ingredients that I may add include olive or castor oils, tea tree oil (for it's anti-fungal properties), and coconut oil (you can now find the liquid-at-room-temperature kind in the grocery store).

Growth / Antifungal:

To be used on just the hair roots, use either straight Listerine (antifungal, and seems to stop flakes and itching), or mix in a bit of Witch Hazel, a few drops of Tea Tree Oil and / or Neem Oil, and the secret ingredient, Miconazole, also known as the vaginal yeast infection treatment found everywhere. Shake to mix it all up well, and be careful with application... one of my horses seemed very sensitive to it, and proceeded to rub his neck and mane on everything he could find, actually causing more hair loss. (Yikes!)

Again, I am far from a scientist, more like a MacGyver wanna-be DIY Kitchen Witch! Use at your own risk.

Hooves

Hoof Oil

This has many of the same ingredients as the mane & tail lotion, only I usually add an anti-fungal and make sure when I apply it to get it into the hair up around the coronet band. This really does seem to prevent hoof cracks from forming, and was recommended by my farrier long ago. Some good anti-fungals are Tea Tree Oil, Miconazole (yes, that's what's in Monistat vaginal cream), copper fungicide, apple cider vinegar, Venice turpentine, Creolin, and iodine. Really, any sort of thick oil seems to make a good base. Again, I love the Luster's Pink lotion because of the lanolin. Many people recommend Listerine, but I haven't used it as I don't believe it mixes well with the oils.

Hoof Hardener

Okay, I found this someplace online when I had a problem with reoccurring hoof abscesses in one of my horses. Be warned, it can be very toxic and dangerous, so if you decide to try this, always wear chemical resistant gloves, protective eye goggles, and be extremely careful how you apply it. It is comprised of equal parts Formalin, Propylene Glycol, and Iodine. (All these things can be purchased from Amazon). ONLY use it on the sole and white line, DO NOT apply it to the frogs - Formaldehyde (which is made into a solution in the Formalin) can be very dangerous to living tissue.

Handle with the same care you would use if it were battery acid! 💀

Hoof Packing

Basically I mix the same anti-fungal ingredients from my hoof oil recipes above with Kaolin or Bentonite Clay powder. Use enough wet ingredients to make it into a sticky mud consistency. I generally avoid the oils, because I want it to stick in possibly damp hooves, not be repelled by water. This is great, because it sticks really well in the soles of the hooves, you can use it if hooves are damp (do make sure they are picked out clean first), and if they are being turned back out into a muddy area, it will stay in the hoof for a while.

Equilab ride tracker year end stats for 2025!

2026-01-18T23:44:00.008-05:00

I absolutely love my Equilab app, which tracks my rides. I have gotten all my riders and leasers to use it as well. But a fun bonus of the app was my 2025 year end recap. Here are some of the screenshots.

I didn't include everything, such as my top speed of 35 MPH on Atticus (because I rather doubt the accuracy of that one), or the fact that I rode more than 80% of the Equilab users (I really don't ride half as much as a could, so I guess the serious riders just aren't tracking their rides, or are using some other app?)

But here are some fun bits of info:

Cookie, the mini, pulling a sled!

2026-01-18T23:12:00.000-05:00

Miniature Horse sledding, revisited

I posted this video last year on January 13th, when we had a nice snow that stuck around for a couple days. I am hoping for snow this coming weekend so I can give it another shot!

I did have to buy a replacement game sled from Amazon, as the old one has quite a few holes. I did try adding metal poles as runners, which seems to work in the right conditions, but also makes it a lot heavier. If we get some decent snow this year, maybe I will have to have a side-by-side comparison of the two sleds.

I have been periodically working with my miniature horse, Cookie, to teach her to drive. She still needs a bit of refinement on important skills such as turning and stopping, but yesterday was a big milestone! Now I look forward to any remaining snow days this year so we can practice a few more times. One horse open sleigh with a mini is a blast!

I think my favorite part is because I am literally on the ground, and the sled and shaft poles are plastic and flexible, this who setup feels super safe. Even though I spilled out a few times (such as the time she decided to make a dive towards her pasture and sent us twisting upside down the other way), it was a no harm, no foul situation and we were right as rain again in a jiffy! ( How do you like that for lots of folksy idioms?)

For someone else's set up that is very similar to mine, take a look at My One Horse Open Sleigh!

Rainy Day Stall Training or Stuck on Stall Rest

2026-01-18T23:00:00.000-05:00

Considering that the ground outside has been looking like a swamp for the past couple weeks, it's getting really frustrating, and starting to feel like I have made no progress whatsoever with the horses. So I decided to start brainstorming some things I could do in one of the run-ins or in one of the stalls. I would love to hear other suggestions... these are mostly things I have been working on anyway in the open.

Exercises For The Stall Or Run-In

Teach horse to step hindquarters toward you for mounting. Stand on mounting block with horse on lead rope, reach over back to tap far hip. Keep tapping until horse takes a step toward you, then stop and reward.

Practice cues for turn on haunches and turn on forehand from the ground, using your hand instead of leg.

Practice “head down” cue (Pressure on poll).

Accustom horse to clippers… acclimate them to the sound, then the vibration on various parts of the body… no actual clipping needed! OR…. Use a percussion massage gun!

Sit on horse bareback and use leg cues to pivot…

ü Move leg forward and tap shoulder for turn on haunches
ü Move leg back and tap for turn on forehand

Trick Training & Clicker Training

Teach to touch a target (i.e. empty water bottle) for a click & treat

Cues for pick up foot …

ü Tap behind cannon for pick up behind (i.e. for bow)
ü Tap in front of cannon for reach out (i.e. Spanish walk)

Step up on pedestal

Pick up all feet from one side.

Teach "ears forward" cue for photos -

ü Flashing hand sign up high. (Use horse neigh sounds from YouTube to get initial reaction so the horse gets the idea.) Click & Treat.

Teach horse to back up to a hand signal (Usually a wagging finger) ☝

Just for fun

Practice vaulting on horse bareback.

Sit on horse with rope halter and lead rope. Practice flipping rope over horse’s head to pull head left, then right. This can later be used when riding.

Find your horse’s favorite scratchy spot… under the neck? On the withers?

Practice your braiding skills

Practice putting on polos / leg wraps

Give applesauce and molasses in an empty dewormer syringe to make it fun and easy.

And finally, you can try these....

Teaching correct turns and self carriage to your horse

2026-01-05T10:58:00.004-05:00

What do all these riders have in common? The horse is on a loose rein and carrying themselves properly, without leaning or falling on the forehand.

Teaching Self-Carriage to Your Horse

What exactly is self-carriage? It is when the horse is able to move in the proper frame without being "held up" by the rider. Notice how the horse looks light in the front end despite a loose rein (or no reins!). Here are some good examples:

Using the Stop to Teach Self-Carriage

A proper stop helps your horse learn balance, engagement, and self-carriage.

The Importance of a Good Stop:
- A correct stop keeps the horse’s back rounded, their legs underneath them, and their head in a comfortable position.
- Avoid a hollow-backed stop, where the horse throws their head up and pulls the reins from your hands.
How to Teach a Proper Stop (Using a Fence):
- Walk your horse toward a fence and let the fence stop them, not your hands.
- As you approach the fence:
  - Change your seat: Bring your shoulders back, sink into the saddle, and move your legs slightly forward.
  - Lift your hands to take the slack out of the reins without pulling.
- The fence naturally stops the horse, while you maintain calm, forward-driving energy with your seat and legs.

This teaches the horse to stop with their back rounded, haunches engaged, and head in a balanced frame. Over time, the horse learns to respond to your body signals rather than relying on your hands for stopping.

Teaching the Back-Up from a Stop

Once your horse stops properly, you can teach them to back up with self-carriage. Backing up requires them to lighten their forehand, so it's a good exercise to engage the hindquarter muscles.

Set Up the Back-Up:
- At the fence, take the slack out of the reins and maintain light contact.
- Keep your body in the “stop position”: shoulders back, seat deep, and legs slightly forward.
Cue the Back-Up:
- Use your seat and gently squeeze with your legs. Since the horse is at the fence and can’t move forward, they’ll step back.
- If the horse doesn’t respond, lightly bump your legs just in front of the girth (near the shoulders). This frees up their shoulders and encourages them to step back.
Reinforce the Difference Between Forward and Backward Cues:
- Use leg pressure slightly behind the girth to ask for forward movement.
- Use leg pressure in front of the girth to cue for backing up. This teaches the horse to recognize the difference in cues.
Practice Backing:
- After the stop, ask for a few steps back while keeping the same “stop frame.”
- Then change your position to a “forward frame” (shoulders forward, hands forward, legs behind the girth) and move the horse forward again.
- Repeat: stop, back up, move forward.

Tips for Success:

Don’t overdo it—end the session on a positive note. Gradually increase the number of back-up steps in future sessions. This can be very tiring for a horse that isn't fit, or isn't used to using their hindquarters a lot.
This exercise helps the horse carry themselves during backing and improves their ability to carry themselves when moving forward.

By teaching these methods, your horse learns to balance, respond to your body signals, and move with confidence and proper form.

Training a Horse to Handle Scary Objects: Using a Bag of Noisy Soda Cans

2025-10-13T14:06:00.000-04:00

Be the brave leader your horse needs!

Can your horse trust you to protect him from danger? That is what is the most important thought on your horse's mind... will my rider be a good leader, or do I have to take charge?

In this method, you will show your horse that you are a strong leader who can protect them. To do that, you will use a bag of noisy soda cans to help your horse overcome fear.

Here's how it works:

Position the Horse Safely
Start with your horse behind you at a safe distance, holding a 12-foot lead rope. If your horse is easily scared, consider using a longer lead. Always make sure you're positioned between the horse and the scary object (the bag of cans).

Approach the Bag Calmly
Walk toward the bag without looking at your horse. Instead, feel the horse's movements through the lead rope. Keep your arm, hand, and shoulder relaxed. This helps signal to the horse that everything is safe. If you look back at your horse, he may think you are unsure of proceeding forward.
Interact with the Bag

Gently nudge or tap the bag to make noise. This might startle the horse a bit, but stay calm and avoid looking back at them. (You, the leader, are investigating. You aren’t worried about your horse’s opinion).
If the horse pulls on the lead, resist gently without reacting.
Kick the bag away from you, then walk toward it and stomp on it or tap it energetically. Continue to kick or toss the bag away, always keeping your movements calm and controlled. (You, strong leader, are defeating the scary bag!)

Avoid Directing Energy Toward the Horse
Make sure your body and the lead rope stay neutral—don’t send any signals that could scare the horse further (or cause the horse to believe you may be unsure).
Repetition Builds Confidence
Repeat the process several times. Over time, the horse will feel braver because their leader (you) is calmly handling the "scary" object. Eventually, the horse may even approach the bag on its own out of curiosity.

Limit Interaction with the Bag
Don’t let the horse play with the bag too much. By keeping the bag just out of reach, you increase their curiosity and willingness to engage with it calmly. Besides, the last thing you need is for the horse to paw the bag, get it stuck on a horseshoe, then run terrified as the scary bag pursues him!
Building Trust and Acceptance
By staying calm and consistent, your horse learns to trust you and becomes more confident around unfamiliar or scary objects.

Spooky and bolting horses are frightened horses. How to deal with it.

2025-10-13T14:02:00.000-04:00

Understanding Fear in Horses

A good rule of thumb: The faster and farther a horse is allowed to flee an object, the more deeply ingrain the fear is to that object.

Stop the spook before it becomes a bolt!

Fear and the Horse

Fear is quickly learned by horses and is strongly connected to how their legs move. Identifying and reducing fear responses in horses is crucial for effective and safe training.

What is Fear?
Fear triggers a horse’s natural flight response—the instinct to run from danger. This response is controlled by the brain and adrenal glands, particularly a part of the brain called the amygdala. Once a horse learns fear, it doesn’t forget it. While new behaviors can be layered on top, the fear remains and requires consistent training to manage.

When a horse is afraid, its heart rate increases, and it ignores everything except the source of fear. This explains why a panicked horse may run into fences or obstacles. Fear also disrupts the horse's movement, making its legs jerky and its actions less smooth.

Signs of Fear in Horses

Horses show fear in many ways, such as:

Bolting (running uncontrollably)
Bucking
Rearing (standing up on hind legs)
Shying / spooking (suddenly swerving)
Tension, tight muscles, grinding teeth, or swishing tails

These behaviors often disrupt rhythm and smooth movement. For example, bolting is the most extreme flight response, while bucking helps remove predators.

Do All Horses React the Same Way?

Not all horses respond to fear by running. Some breeds, like Thoroughbreds and Arabians, are more likely to run due to their ancestry. Other horses, descended from cold climates and used to fighting predators like wolves, may defend themselves by striking with their hooves instead of fleeing.

Fear Is Learned Quickly

Unlike other behaviors that take repeated training, fear responses can be learned in just one or two experiences. This is because fear helps horses remember how to escape predators. In training, it’s important to avoid situations that trigger fear and to correct fear responses immediately.

What Reinforces Fear?

Fear is reinforced whenever a horse escapes the source of its fear, even by a small distance. For example, if a horse steps away from a farrier or flinches from a whip, it learns that avoidance works. Training should focus on preventing this reinforcement by using calm and consistent methods to reduce fear.

Recognizing Fear in Training

Many trainers misinterpret fear responses. For instance, a horse speeding toward a jump is often labeled “keen,” but this is usually fear-based acceleration. Proper training involves teaching the horse to maintain a steady rhythm without speeding up or panicking.

Preventing Fear Responses

To manage fear, avoid fast or random leg movements by the horse during training. For example:

Ride slower near objects that scare the horse and correct shying immediately.
Address bucking or bolting by slowing the horse’s legs, rather than letting it continue the behavior.

For example, if the horse bucks when asked to transition into the canter, come back down to the walk or trot, then ask for the transition again. You don't want to reward the horse by deciding not to canter at all, and you don't want to allow the horse to act like a bronco either. Note that some horses buck when going into the canter because they are weak, and it's difficult for them to pick up the gait without the extra momentum of a buck. Fitness should improve this.

Horses trained to move calmly and predictably are less likely to develop fear-based behaviors.

The Role of Flight Response in Performance

A certain amount of the flight response is necessary for speed in activities like racing. However, too much can make a horse unsafe and unmanageable, such as in bolting. Well-trained horses can maintain speed without losing control, while panicked horses cannot.

Spontaneous Recovery of Fear

Fearful behaviors can reappear unexpectedly, especially during stressful situations. Training methods like chasing a horse in a round pen can worsen fear by reinforcing flight responses. Instead, groundwork and lunging should be done in a calm, controlled manner. The goal is for the horse to learn how to manage stress and fear, and then calm back down, rather than grow more panicked. This is also known as the horse learning to manage it's emotions.

Controlling the Horse’s Legs

Controlling a horse’s leg movements is key to managing fear. Groundwork that teaches a horse to move only when signaled, and to stop and stay still when asked, builds trust and prevents fear-based behaviors.

Brazilian Lemonade (Limeade)

2025-06-29T00:52:00.002-04:00

I came across this recipe recently and just made it today. Tasty!

Keeping Horses Cool

2025-06-28T13:54:00.005-04:00

It's very hard to stay cool in this terrible heat! Especially when Atticus has Anhydrosis (inability to sweat).

Getting your horse to take the bit

2024-11-10T11:37:00.001-05:00

When I started my first horse from a youngster, I made the mistake of shoving the bit against his teeth to get him to open his mouth. This was, of course, not the correct way, and only resulted in him having issues with bridling for many years. So, here is the correct way to go about this task!

Position yourself on the left side, next to the horse's head, facing the same way the horse is. With your right hand holding the bridle, slide the bridle over his face so that you can put your hand over the poll and sort of between his ears. DON'T PUT THE BIT IN YET. Wait until your horse is calm and not tossing his head. You can put pressure on the poll with your right hand (or arm), asking him to lower his head if he raises it too high. Use your left hand to put slight pressure over his nose, about halfway between the eyes and the nostrils (where the bone and cartilage meet). The bit should be below his jaw at this point, and out of the way. Now, just wait.

Once your horse begins to relax and lower his head, position your left hand on the bit, to guide it into his mouth. You do not want the bit to clank or smack against his teeth, so go slow and take your time. You can reach into the horse's mouth and "tickle" his tongue, bars, or the roof of his mouth, until he opens his mouth for you. There are no teeth in this part of the horse's mouth, so you won't be risking any fingers. I often switch my right hand to under the horse's neck and holding the bridle by the cheek straps above his nose while I guide the bit. If your horse is not tossing his head, this position is more comfortable.

Once the bit is in, check to make sure the tongue is under the bit, and that the bit is adjusted and positioned correctly. Most horse's that toss their head have learned to avoid the pain they associate with the bit in any way they can, so check everything you can think of. The general rule of thumb is that an english bit should be adjusted to have 2-3 wrinkles, and a western bit should be adjusted to have one wrinkle in the corner's of the horse's mouth. Also, the cheek straps should not rub too close to the horse's eyes. If so, your browband may be too small. You might also want someone to help you check your horse's teeth to see if there might be any other reason the bit is bothering him.

Spend some time every time you tack up doing this ... repeatedly. Bring your horse in, put the bridle on and off a few times, then give him a treat and put him away. You can also try coating the bit with molasses and/or sugar, once you are able to get him to keep his head low for you. Often, this will help a horse associate pleasant things with the bit in his mouth, instead of pain.

Take extra care when removing the bit NOT to hit his teeth. Let the horse spit it out. He'll appreciate it, and you won't have to deal with a horse that's difficult to bridle.

Once you can get the bit in once, practice slipping it part way out of his mouth then back in repeatedly. While doing this, the horse should keep his head down in an accessible position.

HANDY TIP:

I started wrapping the bit with one of 3 types of soft candy... either Bit O' Honey, Airheads, or Fruit Rollup / Fruit by the Foot type wraps. It makes it much more enjoyable for the horse, and now they typical try to almost snatch the bit out of my hand! Just warm the candy in your hand then squish it around the bit.

Upcycle political signs to jump filler!

2024-11-10T11:24:00.002-05:00

Now that the election is over, do you have some large political signs to dispose of? Here is a handy upcycled use I found for them, which actually holds up for quite a while.

Fold into tent / coop shape, then cover with shower curtain or tablecloth. You can screw 2x4 boards into the base if you wish to make it a little more sturdy and less likely to blow over in the wind.

Lesson Ideas cheat sheet saddle tag

2024-11-10T10:37:00.001-05:00

I first came up with this idea after a friend told me that she used index cards on a binder ring, attached to her saddle D ring to help learn dressage tests.

I frequently find myself deciding to do ring work, only to draw a complete blank on all the lesson plans and riding exercises I just read about, not sure what exactly I should work on. Hence, my laminated practice drills cards! This is my first draft.... I thought I could make various decks, such as "dressage lesson", "bomb-proofing", "jumping", and "ground work", and each deck could be a different color.

I also like the idea of having diagrams for set up of jumps, cavalletti, and riding figures. Not sure how feasible this is in a size small enough to be clipped to the saddle, though. Maybe a fold-out type card would work, although that might be a little harder to laminate. I shall have to experiment a bit.

These cards are about 4" x 2".

I currently have my basic riding set, and my groundwork set. But really, you could make them for all sorts of different disciplines, from dressage exercises, to trick training! Thoughts, opinions?

Keeping a black horse black

2024-06-10T17:35:00.002-04:00

Having Friesian crosses as well as a black TN Walker at one point, I have frequently struggled with keeping their coats black and not fading out in the summer. My TN Walker would have a jet black coat when his summer or winter hair came in, but by the end of the season, he faded to almost a dun color! He was the one horse that seemed to have the most significant color change.

Mane and Tail dye.... Bigen!

Proper nutrition: A well-balanced diet that includes plenty of nutrients such as protein, vitamins, and minerals is essential for maintaining a healthy and shiny coat. Copper deficiency can cause a coat to bleach excessively in the sun. Some coat supplements contain Paprika, which does seem to help prevent bleaching, although it will test if you show your horse.

Regular grooming: Grooming your horse regularly helps to distribute natural oils throughout the coat, which can help keep it shiny and healthy. Use a soft brush to remove dirt and debris, and a curry comb to remove loose hair and promote circulation.

Sun protection: Exposure to the sun's UV rays can cause fading and damage to your horse's coat, especially for black horses. Provide shade or use a fly sheet or UV-protective coat to help protect your horse's coat from the sun. There are also some coat sprays that contain sunscreen, which I would recommend.

Rinse off sweat: Sweat is very salty, which can cause further damage and bleaching to the horse's coat. If the weather is conducive to it, hose off your horse after exercise to keep the coat free of sweat. This will also help with flies.

Remember that each horse is unique and has different coat care requirements, so it's essential to monitor your horse's coat regularly and adjust your care routine accordingly. If you have any concerns about your horse's coat or overall health, consult with a veterinarian or equine specialist.

Both these horses below are jet black when they first change coats with the seasons. The one on the left (since passed away), would always turn almost a light bay color by the end of summer. My Friesian will turn reddish, as will the tips of his mane and tail, in the sun.

Updates around the farm... Foxhound Puppy!

2024-06-10T16:54:00.005-04:00

Well, it has been much too long since I have updates, so here we go! My most exciting news is the addition of Bella, a foxhound puppy that I was gifted by the Marlborough Hunt Club. She is the sweetest little thing you've ever seen, and growing like a weed! She is almost 7 months old and looks to be just about full grown.... something I am not used to!

My past few dogs were King Shepherds, and they didn't look full grown until at least a year old. At any rate, here are a number of photos of my sweet girl for you viewing enjoyment!

Christmas with the kitties

2023-12-20T07:37:00.004-05:00

This will be our first Christmas with Kali (aka "Demon Baby"), whom we rescued from the cold last January when she was around 6 weeks old. She has come by her nickname due to her penchant for getting into all sorts of trouble and trying to start fights with Orenji at every opportunity.

So far she has managed to stay out of the Christmas tree for the most part, but we shall see how long that lasts!

Trail riding video of Una on Atticus with the pups

2023-11-23T11:18:00.007-05:00

Photo artwork and digital paintings

2023-11-20T11:18:00.000-05:00

Here are some of my recent creations… they are a combination of digital art and photos I've taken.

Atticus headshot

The back pasture, with Spring evening sun rays.

Judge (29 yr. old retired police horse) and his

girlfriend Cookie trotting in the pasture.

Latent Learning and giving the horse time to process

2023-11-20T11:10:00.003-05:00

Have you ever had a situation similar to the following happen to you?

You decide you are going to teach your young horse to ground drive. He has never done this before, but he is accustomed to ropes around his feet and legs, so he doesn't mind that touch. He does seem a bit confused at you walking behind him and turning him with the long lines, but after a short session, he seems to roughly get the hang of it, and there was no resistance, so you decide that's a good start and leave it.
You get busy with other horses and other things, and don't get to another ground driving lesson for a week. When you attach the long lines for the second lesson, suddenly the horse seems like a pro! He turns smoothly, can do serpentines, and even halts squarely and quietly at a light touch. You are dumbfounded.... was someone secretly working with your horse that you weren't aware of?! Did he just regain memories of a past life as a cart horse?

I had this exact situation happen to me. Similar ones as well when teaching a horse a new concept. I finally decided that horses take a much longer time to "digest" new information, and their timeline is completely different from ours when it comes to learning and assimilating new knowledge.

Then I heard of the concept of "latent learning" in a podcast on clicker training horses. So when teaching a horse something completely new, such as a brand new trick, or a flying lead change, or the turn on the forehand, you will achieve much more if you give your horse breaks of a few days between lessons, instead of practicing daily.

Most horses trained once or twice a week for a short period learn more between sessions than those taught every day in long lessons.

The horse's brain needs time to process and absorb what it was shown. Then it needs to put that information into the long-term storage section of the brain, where it is archived and can be quickly retrieved by the horse when needed.

On the other hand, humans usually learn in one hour classroom blocks, so we expect to move at a much faster pace than the horse.

On her page, professional horst trainer Stacy Westfall says:

"I love to work with horses that I call ‘next day learners’ or horses that the next day come out and have really absorbed the lesson that was taught the day before. They may not be experts but they seem to have thought about what went on and they are applying the concepts at least."

Slow down!

Think of a horse's timeline of stretching out much longer than your own. I have had a lot of success teaching a horse to pick up a leg on cue (a light tap with the whip) by asking once at the start of our grooming session, then a second time when I am all tacked up and ready to head to the mounting block. Upon finishing our ride, the horse would frequently offer to pick up a leg while untacking and brushing out. It's almost as if the horse had been ruminating on the task over the course of our ride, and decided to show me he's figured it out!

So try not to repeatedly drill new tasks with your horse.... give him time to "digest" the lesson and his learning pace will actually increase.

Jump Panel and Décor Ideas

2023-02-23T02:32:00.001-05:00

So I am always looking for novel ideas to make new horse jumps, or to dress up plain old logs in the woods. Here are a few that I have made, as well as ideas I have for others.

Ideas for jump panels:

These PVC or vinyl panels are available at places such as Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowes. They came up in a search for "decor screen", so hard to say how sturdy they are, but they look like they would be super easy to attach to a long board plank to act as a wider plank or a filler:

They also come in a couple different colors, although generally that is limited to shades of brown, black, and white.

Along those lines, another search for "decorative panel" came up with these that look a bit sturdier (or at least I am more confident they would stand up to outdoor use:

*Other ideas: Woven willow / branch filler

Faux ivy / hedge fence panels

Becoming a Bombproof Rider

2023-02-23T02:31:00.002-05:00

I recently started reading a book about bombproofing your horse, and as I was reminded of the psychology of it, I had an epiphany; I could apply the same ideas to make myself a braver rider.

Basically, in working on de-spooking or bomb proofing your horse, you are gradually making them confront a scary thing, first from a safe distance, then gradually increasing the pressure until it's no big deal.

So it occurred to me, if I am worried about my horse spooking, or even trying to turn and bolt on me, I need to set up a situation where my horse is nervous, but I can handle it and bring him back under control.

Riding in the Rain with Magnum (2009)

2023-01-11T09:18:00.000-05:00

Just stumbled across this old post, and thought I'd repost it for the memories!

(Originally published Oct. 19,2009)

Yeah, this weather is really crummy! I must say, I was very proud of myself for venturing out riding yesterday.

The vet came out and looked at Magnum... she did flexion tests, felt his legs, watched him on the lunge, etc. and said she doesn't think it's arthritis. He trotted out sound after the flexions, and she said that should have shown something if it was. After watching him a bit, she did notice how he at times seemed stiff behind and took short steps, but she thinks it's more muscle development, and he's being protective of himself because he's worried about slipping. She had him stand square and looked at him behind, and then showed me, and it's clear that aside from lacking muscle along the top of his hindquarters, his right hind is much more underdeveloped in a couple places. She agreed it was probably from the EPM, that he permanently lost some muscle and it will just take more work to get it back. I asked about the possibility of steroids to help with the development, and she said we could try it down the road if a conditioning program isn't sufficient, but it can make a horse really aggressive.

I had Magnum and Teddy in the front field while waiting for the vet, and Teddy was clearly wanting to play, running around and bucking, and then closely examining each part of Magnum that the vet had just checked. (She'd feel his stifle, Teddy would look at her then closely sniff Magnum's stifle, she'd poke around his pasterns, Teddy would sniff his pasterns, etc. I had to keep shooing him away). So I decided I'd bring Teddy along when I took Magnum for a ride up and down the power lines. Since it was a rainy Friday, I didn't think we'd come across too many other people.

I ponied Teddy until we were across the stream (he likes to walk with his head glued to Magnum's butt, so it wasn't difficult). Then I took off the lead rope and let him run along. Occasionally he'd take a parallel trail, but then he'd always cut across to come back behind us. It was really funny when we got to the open field. Teddy first trotted over to examine the orange traffic cone in the field, then turned and galloped all around, bucking and kicking. Zoey would chase him for a bit, then he'd chase her. It was like having 2 dogs out. If he started to run too far off, I'd call him and he'd come right back.

I think he got a lot more exercise than Magnum, because he chose to run and buck so much. I thought it would also be a good way for him to learn to navigate different terrain without a rider. The only problem was when we turned to come back. Teddy decided to take the lead, and thought he knew the way home, so went galloping full speed up over the hill toward the traffic circle, whinnying the whole time. Magnum got VERY upset at that... he bucked a few times because he wanted to go with Teddy, then pranced the rest of the way with his head straight up. He called to Teddy a few times, but no response.

Turns out, Teddy thought he knew the way back but got lost... he was over by the pavilion, galloping back and forth along the wood line, trying to find the trail. So when we came up over the hill, he saw Magnum and came straight back to us, with his head at Magnum's butt as usual. I thought he might have learned his lesson about running off, but once we got down to the main open field, he figured NOW he knew the way back and took off again. Unfortunately, this time he followed the road up to the playground area. (So much for horses having great sense of direction). So we walked up there, and he was again galloping along the wood line, whinnying and trying to find the trail. Magnum and I just stood there until Teddy saw we weren't going to follow him and came dejectedly back to us. Then he obediently followed the rest of the way home. I think he was quite tired by then... he hasn't had that kind of a workout before. It was a fun experiment. I'd like to do it again, but a weekend probably isn't the best time.

How to train for a steady, confident horse on the trail.

2022-12-06T10:35:00.004-05:00

This is all advice by Cheri Wolfe, given on her website, WolfeRanch.com. I have edited the original a bit, but this is pretty close to her post.

These tips not only make a horse more confident, but they should also make the rider more confident as well.

1. The main thing you are looking for from your horse is OBEDIENCE. Quick and full response to your aids and requests without a fuss. If you say walk on, the horse does so promptly and without argument. Same with stop, turn here, etc.

2. Your horse doesn't get to look at every new or different thing and decide if it's okay. YOU decide if it's okay, and if so, the horse needs to trust you, and not his natural instincts to bolt and run from any potential threat. As the leader, what you say goes. A foal will follow it's mother across a raging river because he trusts her. If you tell your horse that flapping tarp is OK, then he must trust you and have no more questions about it.

3. If you get in the habit of "showing" a horse everything he is fearful of, they get into the habit of stopping to check out anything new or strange. Not acceptable if you are galloping a cross country course, or trying to get to a stuck cow. The habit you DO want to reinforce is to go past, over, or through anything that you ask him to.

4. The horse either has to become the leader and figure out everything for himself, or he has to let you be the leader. I believe I am smarter when it comes to identifying actual dancer, know where I am going and what I want to do, and he doesn't get to have an opinion about it. Nervous, spooky, 'refusing' horses are most of all 'worried'. As a prey animal, they are supposed to be worried about them and the horses behind them when they are the leader. When YOU are the leader, they are not worried about anything, and are much happier and calmer.

Tips for how to accomplish this while riding:

1. Look out past or beyond the scary obstacle. Ride with the resolve of a person on a mission who needs to get somewhere quickly. This subconsciously makes you more assertive, and the horse reads this as confidence. Don't look down at your horse, look at the place you are going! If you look for spooky stuff, you will certainly find it!

2. Don't ride straight toward a scary thing you can go around or past. (e.g., recently on a trail ride, there was a bright shiny Mylar balloon on the trail. I managed to get around it by deviating into the woods a bit to add a little more distance). As you pass the scary thing, bend the horse's head away from it and shoulder towards it. Once past, reverse direction TOWARD the object (don't turn tail to something scary, that is retreat), and pass it again in a shoulder-in same as before (head away, shoulder towards thing). Repeat until there is no tension.

3. If the horse isn't trained enough to know how to leg yield, another option is to ride "hard and fast"... at least, go faster (trot rather than walk), cover more ground, go over rough ground, distract the horse with more pressure. Use tools to get the horse's attention back on his job and on you. Focus on where you are going, not the object. Ideally, if time allows, you should then repeatedly pass the object until the horse thinks nothing of it. (Hence why you should never be in a hurry when riding... training issues need to be dealt with and not put off).

4. Before hitting the trail, make sure you have control of your horse's feet and good forward impulsion. When you ask a horse to walk on, it should be a bold, working walk. If not, make him halt and ask him again to walk on, using crop of a strong thump of your legs if need be to get a good forward walk. Ask him to yield his head to both sides, and practice the one rein stop.

5. Never accept less than full obedience. Finish what you start. If your horse decides it is not going to cross the stream and stalls out, threatens to rear, starts backing up, keeps whirling, etc., you have to MAKE him do it. If you can't ride him across at first, lead or ground drive him, then ride him. Use crop or spurs if necessary, but he cannot be allowed to win the battle. If he does, he will try that much harder the next time he doesn't want to do something, and you quickly have a dangerous horse on your hands.

You become a confident rider when you have full control. Control comes from being an "In Charge" leader.

Benefits of Long Reining or Ground Driving Horses

2022-11-26T17:57:00.000-05:00

It can be called Ground Driving, Long-Reining, or Long Lining. What it is, is basically driving a horse with two long lines while you are walking on the ground. Sort of like lunging, only with a second line. It's benefits are numerous! Long lining builds top-line muscles, and teaches softness in the bridle and self-carriage.

You can see ground driving depicted in old horse training manuscripts and artwork as it was sometimes used in classical training (or high school dressage, such as that practiced by the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, or the Cadre noir of Saumur in France).

One of the things I have noticed in long lining Atticus, is the ease with which I can ask for shoulder-in and half-pass along the fence line. As I am not always correctly balanced, and definitely stronger on one side than the other when it comes to using the proper aids, I frequently worry that I may be confusing him or inadvertently giving conflicting cues. I don't have to worry about this with the long lines.

Additionally, I find it's a great way to work on an issue that I would not be comfortable riding the horse through. Here is a short video of driving him away from "home" (the tacking / untacking spot) when he decided he was done working and the ditch made a handy excuse for him to refuse.

Whenever he tried to spin away from the ditch, I would turn him again to face it and encourage him to go forward. If he was at least facing the right direction, I would verbally encourage him. After a number of refusals, he realizes it's easier to go over than to continue refusing. It's the same principle under saddle... take the pressure off if the horse is doing the right thing (or even just THINKING the right thing, as in facing the ditch without backing or turning away).

I find that having this ability to reinforce your requests without danger works really well for under saddle behavior.

Stall bedding methods

2022-07-09T11:05:00.000-04:00

Deep Litter Method, or "Lazy Man's Way"

This involves starting with a whole lot of shavings, picking out the obvious manure, and adding more fresh bedding on top. It is what I prefer in my outdoor run-ins, as it builds up a decomposing base layer which helps to lift the floor level above any dampness and also adds warmth in the winter. I actually start with a layer of woodchips, and add sawdust on top. In the winter, I usually add chopped straw, as it really helps to insulate and keep them warm.

Usually the whole shebang is cleaned out completely once a year or so, which can be a massive job. Although I have seen this method used where the base layer decomposes at a rate that keeps the level of bedding pretty much even.... again, usually outside, and with few horses.

One big drawback to this method is the buildup of ammonia fumes, especially in a closed up area such as a barn. (Another reason it works better for outdoor runs). You also have to be sure to add enough fresh bedding on top to lift them away from any dampness and bacteria. Because manure gets mixed in with the shavings, it can cause issues with thrush and similar infections.

PROS:

Once established, quick and easy
Can provide extra cushioning
Provides warmth in winter from decomposition

CONS:

Very labor-intensive when complete cleaning becomes necessary
Can cause buildup of ammonia fumes and breathing problems
Can exacerbate thrush or fungal issues

Stall Mats + Very Light Sawdust

This method relies on the stall mats to provide cushioning, and just uses a dusting of sawdust or shavings to absorb urine and manure spots. It makes the stalls very easy to clean, but you must make sure there is sufficient cushioning under the mats so it is comfortable for the horse to lay down.

Types of Bedding Material

In my area, the options are pretty much baled straw, chopped straw, shavings, sawdust, and pelleted bedding. Here is my experience with the various types:

Baled straw:

Cheap, fluffs nicely to provide good insulation. However, it is an absolute bear to muck out! All the long fibers mat together, creating a very heavy mess. Additionally, for some reason soiled staw bedding stinks much more than the other types.... I have only noticed this when mucking out, not when walking into the stable.

Chopped straw:

Very easy to handle and spread, insulates, keeps coats very clean. The biggest downside is that horses may eat it, and eating too much can lead to impaction colic. But this stuff makes a soft, fluffy bed that I wouldn't mind sleeping on myself!

Shavings:

Light and fluffy, the wood shavings are larger than sawdust, and can be had usually in cedar or pine. Cedar smells nice and helps repel insects. However, this stuff sticks to everything, and you will find it a bit itchy when it works it's way under your bra. Can be hard to separate out when cleaning, so you do wind up throwing out some clean shavings with the dirty bedding.

Sawdust:

Easy to clean out and separate the dirty stuff. You do need a lot of it to provide sufficient cushion, as it tends to pack down easily. It is also prone to becoming dusty, which can be a big problem with a horse that has any sort of breathing problems, such as Heaves.

Pelleted wood:

I love this stuff! You have to soak the pellets before spreading it, and at that point it crumbles into sawdust. Due to the soaking step, it is less likely to be dusty, and it's an absolute dream to much out... sort of like cleaning a litter box, the poop clumps stick together, the pee spots are easy to see. It's also very easy to store, as you can stack the bags anywhere. If it does get wet, it expands inside the bag and tends to burst it, but I have just raked that stuff up and spread it... it doesn't go bad like wet feed would.

Interesting New Horse Products

2022-07-05T10:13:00.000-04:00

I am always curious to see what new inventions clever people have come up with to solve various horse / riding / farm problems. Heck, for that matter, I also like to look up old patents to see what sorts of clever ideas people had a couple hundred years ago.

At any rate, I recently came across this website. They have a couple products that I found interesting and may want to try. The first being, these Velcro gloves and reins combo. I have sometimes found myself with wet or sweaty hands and reins, and feel like I am trying to hold onto a pair of eels. Royal pain in the butt! Anyway, this is what the product looks like:

Thoughts? I will update this post as I come across more fun stuff!