Unboxing Your RetroSound RetroRadio

Before diving into assembly, it’s important to ensure you have all the necessary components. The RetroSound RetroRadio package includes the Motor 2A (now replaced by the Motor 2B, the latest version) as the brain of the unit, the chrome RetroRadio face, adjustable InfiniMount brackets, shafts, hardware pack, a Bluetooth microphone, and wiring harnesses. Not every part will be used in every installation, so don’t worry if some components seem unused. This step-by-step guide covers the essentials for most installs.

Step 1: Connecting the RetroRadio Face to the Motor

Start by connecting the ribbon cable from the Motor 2A (or Motor 2B) to the RetroRadio face. It's a simple snap connection. Once connected, align the display face onto the motor, ensuring the grooves are lined up. Secure the display face with the small screws provided in the box. These screws are tiny, so they’re placed in an orange bag to keep them organized. Proper assembly of the radio face ensures a solid connection to the motor for optimal function.

Step 2: Mounting the Brackets

Next, attach the InfiniMount brackets to the sides of the radio using the screws from the hardware pack. The InfiniMount system is adjustable, allowing you to fine-tune the position of the brackets based on your car’s specific needs. The brackets allow you to adjust the positioning of the radio within the dash, ensuring it fits perfectly.

Step 3: Installing the Shafts

The shafts are crucial for controlling your RetroSound radio. Before installing them, make sure the RetroSound logo is on top, with the push buttons on the bottom. Insert the shafts through the radio’s front panel and secure them with nuts and washers. Remember to leave them finger-tight for easy adjustments later.

You’ll also need to connect the RJ11 jack, which snaps into place on the side of the radio. This ensures the connection between the shaft and motor is secure. Repeat this process on the other side.

Step 4: Back Strap Installation for Extra Support

To ensure your RetroSound radio stays securely mounted, it’s essential to use the back strap. The back strap supports the radio from the rear, preventing the weight from solely resting on the shafts. This additional support is critical to avoid any potential damage or dislodging.

Step 5: Wiring the RetroSound Radio

Now it's time to connect the wiring harness. Plug the main harness into the back of the radio, and then wire it into your vehicle. The wiring includes connections for power, ground, ignition, amplifier turn-on, antenna output, and speaker outputs. If you’re only using two speakers, remember to cap off any unused speaker wires to prevent shorts.

Step 6: Installing the Bezel and Knobs

Once everything is assembled, slide the bezel (the trim plate) over the front of the radio. The bezel ensures the radio fits properly in your car’s dash, giving it a clean and finished look. After securing the bezel, you can install the knobs. Simply press the knobs into place once everything is tightened.

Ready to Install in Your Classic Car

With the RetroSound RetroRadio fully assembled, you’re ready to install it into your classic car. Ensure the shafts are aligned correctly, with the threaded parts just below the front of the display, allowing a flush fit when the radio is mounted in the dash. Also, don’t forget to route the Bluetooth microphone to a convenient location in the car (typically near the windshield or on the visor).

Watch the Full Assembly Video

To make the process even easier, we’ve created a comprehensive video guide showing each step in action. Click below to watch the full RetroSound RetroRadio assembly video and follow along with the instructions:

Conclusion

Assembling the RetroSound RetroRadio is a straightforward process, and with this guide and our instructional video, you'll have your radio up and running in no time. Enjoy the modern features of Bluetooth connectivity, hands-free calling, and superior sound quality in your classic car. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out to our support team!

The Perfect Blend: RetroSound Style with Modern Tech

Let's face it: classic cars have a certain charm. The smooth lines, the rumble of the engine, the nostalgic feel... there's nothing quite like it. But let's be honest, keeping up with modern technology while maintaining that classic vibe can be a challenge. That's where our new USB/USB-C and USB/Auxiliary Extension Harnesses come in.

Designed specifically for RetroSound radios, these harnesses bridge the gap between vintage style and modern convenience. Now, you can enjoy the timeless sound of your RetroSound system while easily connecting your smartphone, tablet, or any other device you rely on.

We know that different drivers have different needs, which is why we’ve introduced two versions of the harness:

USB/USB-C Version

This model includes both a USB-A port and a USB-C port, making it perfect for those with modern devices like smartphones and tablets. The USB-C input allows you to quickly charge and connect your latest gadgets while on the go.

USB/USB-C

USB/Auxiliary Version

If you have older audio devices or prefer the traditional 3.5mm auxiliary input, this version is the ideal choice. It features a USB-A port for charging or data transfer, as well as a standard 3.5mm jack for connecting MP3 players, phones, or other audio devices.

USB/AUX

Here's why you'll love these harnesses:

• Effortless Integration: Forget about complicated installations. These harnesses are designed to work seamlessly with your existing RetroSound radio. Simply plug them in and you're ready to go.
• Flexible Installation: With a generous 53-inch cable length, you have the freedom to mount the inputs wherever is most convenient for you – on your dashboard, or center console.
• Sleek and Stylish: Available in both black and chrome finishes, our harnesses are designed to complement your vehicle's interior. The hinged cover keeps the ports protected from dust and debris when not in use, ensuring a clean and professional look.

Imagine this: You're cruising down the highway, enjoying the open road with the top down. Your favorite playlist is seamlessly streaming from your smartphone through your RetroSound radio. Your phone is charging, and you're hands-free, thanks to the convenient placement of the USB ports.

Upgrade your classic car experience today!

Upgrade Your 6V Classic Car’s Audio System with the RetroSound 6-12 Volt Converter

For classic car enthusiasts, upgrading a vehicle’s audio system has always been a challenge. Vintage cars that run on 6-volt electrical systems often require extensive rewiring to accommodate modern 12-volt electronics. Thankfully, RetroSound®, a leading name in classic car audio, has developed a solution that allows you to enjoy modern audio features without the hassle of overhauling your car's electrical system. The RetroSound 6-12V Converter (Part # RS-CNVRTR) is designed specifically for vintage vehicles with 6V power systems, providing a seamless way to power 12V electronics like RetroSound's popular radios and speakers.

Key Features of the RetroSound 6-12V Converter:

Whether you're looking to enhance your vintage car’s audio system with a RetroSound radio or want to install other 12V accessories, the RetroSound 6-12V Converter makes it easy to bring your classic car into the modern age. Engineered for performance, reliability, and durability, it is the ideal accessory for any classic car owner looking to upgrade their vehicle without compromising its original electrical setup.

Don’t let a 6V system hold back your audio upgrades. Experience the power of modern technology in your vintage vehicle with the RetroSound 6-12V Converter. Order yours today!

What is RF Interference?

In the realm of classic cars, every detail holds significance. From the sunlight dancing off the chrome to the rumble of the engine, collectors and enthusiasts cherish the authenticity and nostalgia that classic vehicles embody. However, one aspect that hasn't stood the test of time is audio technology. Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) has been a persistent issue in the automotive industry for decades, manifesting as the annoying, erratic static that disrupts audio signals. The good news is that there are solutions. In this post, we'll delve into the complexities of RFI, explore its impact on classic car audio setups, and discuss effective mitigation strategies.

In short, RFI (or Radio Frequency Interference) can be defined as an unwanted audio signal that disrupts the signal sent by your sound system. Generally speaking, when you’re using your sound system you’ll want to receive signals from things like your radio, Bluetooth, or even your satellite radio however at times these signals can be interrupted by other electronic energies in and around your vehicle.

RFI occurs when electromagnetic signals disrupt the normal operation of electronic devices. These signals can emanate from various sources, including nearby radio stations, cellular networks, power lines, and even the ignition system of the vehicle itself. In classic cars, which lack the advanced shielding and filtering found in modern vehicles, RF interference can be particularly troublesome.

Why Does RF Interference happen?

In most cases, the issue lies in the wiring. The wires connecting your speakers and amplifier (or radio, in many cases) can inadvertently act as antennas for troublesome RF signals seeking ingress into your audio system. These wires, typically made of metal, have the potential to conduct such signals if the surrounding plastic jacket is insufficiently thick or if the signal strength is overpowering. Consequently, this signal may infiltrate the circuit board of your radio, where it's intercepted and converted into an audio signal, audible through your speakers as unwanted noise. This underscores the importance of replacing the old factory wiring, using high-quality wiring kits and implementing installation techniques aimed at minimizing interference.

Symptoms of RF Interference

Identifying RF interference in a classic car audio system isn't always straightforward, but there are some common symptoms to watch out for:

Noise and Static: The most noticeable sign of RF interference is the presence of noise or static in the audio output. This can manifest as crackling sounds, hissing, or pops, especially when the engine is running or when nearby electronic devices are active.

Intermittent Reception: RF interference can disrupt radio reception, causing stations to fade in and out or become distorted. This can be especially frustrating for drivers who enjoy listening to AM/FM radio in their classic cars.

Electrical Whine: In some cases, RF interference can manifest as a high-pitched whine or buzz that fluctuates with engine RPM. This noise is often referred to as alternator whine and is typically caused by the interaction between the vehicle's electrical system and the audio equipment.

Mitigating RF Interference

While eliminating RF interference entirely in a classic car audio system may be challenging, there are several strategies that enthusiasts can employ to minimize its impact:

Summing It All Up

RF interference poses a unique challenge for classic car audio enthusiasts, but with careful planning and attention to detail, it can be mitigated effectively. By understanding the sources and symptoms of RF interference and implementing appropriate mitigation strategies, you can enjoy crisp, clear audio in your beloved classic ride with minimal interference. After all, in the world of classic cars, every note of the soundtrack matters.

Why Bluetooth® Matters in Classics

Classic cars were built when AM/FM radios and cassette players were state-of-the-art. But with RetroSound’s Bluetooth®-enabled classic car stereo systems, you can stream music directly from your smartphone, browse playlists, and enjoy hands-free calling—all without compromising your dashboard’s vintage appeal. Imagine cruising in your vintage Mustang or Bel Air, seamlessly streaming from your phone without the hassle of wires. With track control integrated into the radio, you can stay focused on driving while easily navigating your favorite music.

RetroSound’s Radio Motors: Bluetooth® for Every Setup

RetroSound radios are powered by different motors, each tailored to fit specific needs. All RetroSound Motors  provides Bluetooth® streaming and hands-free calling.  The Motor 1B is perfect for those who want a sleek, simple setup without USB ports. The Motor 2B offers additional flexibility with USB and auxiliary inputs, while the Motor 4HD includes premium features like HD Radio for superior sound quality. All motors deliver modern functionality while preserving your classic car’s vintage look.

Key Features of RetroSound’s Bluetooth® Radios

• Bluetooth® Audio Streaming: Stream your favorite music wirelessly from any Bluetooth-enabled device.
• Hands-Free Calling: Stay safe with built-in hands-free phone functionality.
• Music Browsing: Control your music directly from the radio, eliminating the need to fumble with your phone.
• Authentic Look: RetroSound radios are designed to replicate the original factory look, preserving your car’s classic appearance.
• USB/Auxiliary Inputs: With both USB and auxiliary ports (on select motors), you can play music from a variety of sources.

The Perfect Blend of Retro and Modern

RetroSound radios offer the ideal balance of vintage aesthetics and modern convenience. Whether you’re after Bluetooth® functionality or the best in retro autosound, these radios are perfect for upgrading your classic car stereo while maintaining the classic feel. The integration of Bluetooth® across all radio motors—including the Motor 1B—makes RetroSound’s classic car radios with Bluetooth the go-to choice for enthusiasts seeking both authenticity and performance.

So, if you're looking to enhance your classic ride without losing the charm of yesteryear, RetroSound's retro radio systems deliver modern audio with a vintage touch.

RetroSound® Brings Classic Chevy/GMC Trucks Back to the Airwaves

RetroSound®, a top innovator in classic vehicle audio accessories, is excited to announce its latest editions to the RetroAntenna® product line: the 1988-1998 Chevrolet/GMC Truck Antenna Replacement Kits. These direct-fit kits are engineered for seamless installation and enhanced performance, offering classic truck enthusiasts a simple way to restore or upgrade their vehicle’s antenna.

With four distinct models available, the kits feature an OE-style fit, improved reception, and exceptional durability to meet the needs of 1988-1998 Chevrolet and GMC truck owners.

Antenna Kit - Model Years 1988 - 1995

Base with Female Connector

More Info on Model MC-8895

Available with either a smooth or ribbed fixed mast.

Antenna Kit - Model Years 1995 - 1998

Base with Male Connector

More info on Model MC-9598

Available with either a smooth or ribbed fixed mast.

Each kit includes a rugged, all-metal antenna base with a female (Years 88-95) or male (Years 95-98) plug, an extension cable for flexible installation, durable mounting components, and your choice of either a smooth or ribbed fixed mast. These kits are designed for front fender installation, ensuring a factory-like fit and finish while offering modern radio performance and durability.

Product Features:

• Direct-fit for 1988-1995 and 1995-1998 Chevrolet/GMC trucks
• Front fender installation for OE-style appearance
• Available with either a smooth or ribbed fixed mast
• OE-quality replacement with all-metal parts for maximum durability
• Enhances AM/FM reception for superior audio performance
• Easy, direct-fit installation with included mounting hardware

Upgrade Your Classic Car’s Sound: Why Neodymium Magnets Make a Big Difference in Speakers

Restoring a classic car isn’t just about fresh paint, polished chrome, or a spotless engine bay — it’s about the driving experience. And let’s be honest: cruising without a solid sound system just isn’t the same. Whether you're jamming to vintage rock or some smooth Sunday jazz, great audio matters.

But when it comes to choosing new speakers, there's more to consider than just size or wattage. The type of magnet inside your speakers can make a surprising difference in performance and installation — especially in classic rides where space is tight.

What’s the Deal with Speaker Magnets?

If you're new to audio installs, here's a quick breakdown. Every speaker has a magnet — it's what moves the speaker cone back and forth to create sound. The stronger and more efficient the magnet, the better the performance and clarity.There are two main types of magnets used in car speakers:

• Ceramic (Ferrite) Magnets
• Neodymium Magnets

Each has its pros and cons, and understanding these can help you make a smarter choice for your classic car build.

Ceramic vs. Neodymium: What’s the Difference?

Ceramic Magnets (Ferrite):

• Heavier and larger
• Cost-effective
• Tried and true for decades
• Can limit placement in space-restricted spots (like classic dashboards)

Neodymium Magnets:

• Smaller and lighter — perfect for tight installs
• Significantly more powerful per size
• Typically used in premium or space-saving speakers
• Higher cost, but better efficiency and clarity

Why Neodymium is a Game-Changer for Classic Cars

Most classic vehicles weren’t exactly designed with modern audio systems in mind. Space behind the dash or inside the door panels is often minimal. That’s where Neodymium magnets shine — they allow for ultra-slim speaker designs that don’t compromise on sound. Plus, you get lighter weight, better power handling, and improved audio response — all essential for music that matches your build’s personality.

Real-World Picks: RetroSound Speakers Worth Checking Out

RetroSound specializes in audio gear made specifically for vintage rides. Here are two popular speaker options designed with classic car enthusiasts in mind:

RetroSound Premium 6"x9" Ultra-Thin 3-Way Speaker Pair

• Built with Neodymium magnets for powerful sound in a compact form
• Slim profile — ideal for shallow rear decks or dashboard installs
• Three-way design: separates high, mid, and low frequencies for rich, detailed sound
• Handles up to 120 watts — more than enough for most in-car systems

Perfect for: Classic cars with limited space that need premium sound without cutting metal or making modifications.

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RetroSound 6.5" 2-way Speaker Pair

• Features traditiona ceramic magnet structure
• Solid audio performance at a budget-friendly price
• Two-way configuration for a clean, balanced sound
• Fits in spots where there's room to spare (think doors or kick panels)

Perfect for: Resto-modders who want solid audio without a premium price tag — and have a little more space to work with.

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Pros and Cons Recap

Final Thoughts: Which Is Right for Your Build?

Ask yourself:

• Tight on space behind the dash or under the deck? Neodymium is your answer.
• Room to spare and budget-conscious? Ceramic still delivers solid results.

At the end of the day, both types will get the job done — but if you’re after high-end sound in a tight space, neodymium magnet speakers like RetroSound’s Premium Series are hard to beat.👉 Browse all RetroSound speakers at RetroManufacturing.com — built for your build.Happy wrenching, and even happier listening.

Why Adjust the Color Display on Your Radio?

Customizing the color display on your radio isn’t just about style—it also enhances visibility, reduces eye strain, and allows you to express your personal preferences. Whether you’re restoring a classic car with a RetroSound radio or simply want your dashboard to match your mood, understanding how to change the color display can make your driving experience more enjoyable and ergonomic.

Getting Started: What You Need to Know

Before diving into the process, make sure your RetroSound radio is properly installed and powered on. Most modern classic radios, like those from RetroSound, come with customizable displays allowing you to select from preset colors or even create your own custom shade using RGB controls.

Step-by-Step: How to Change the Color Display on Your RetroSound Radio

Changing your radio’s color display is a straightforward process, but it’s important to follow each step for the best results.

1. Turn on the radio: Power up your RetroSound unit and let it fully boot. You’ll see your current color display—often a default scan mode. (Scan cycles through the preset colors)
2. Enter programming mode: Press and hold the right-front knob until you see ‘auto seek’ displayed, this means you’ve activated the programming menu.
3. Find the color setting: Rotate the same knob to scroll through the menu options until you reach SCAN this is the default color setting.
4. Browse preset colors: Press the knob to toggle through preset color choices. The radio might offer colors like red, green, blue, amber, white, or purple.
5. Select your color: When you find a color you like, simply stop pressing—the radio will automatically set the display after a short timeout.

Personalizing With a Custom Color

Want something unique? RetroSound radios let you take control of your color display with custom RGB adjustment.

1. Choose user mode: From the color selection menu, rotate the knob until you see ‘user’—this option allows for RGB adjustments.
2. Adjust RGB values: When ‘user’ is selected, press the knob once to enter RGB mode. Here’s how you can fine-tune your display:
3. Set and save: When you’re happy with your custom color, simply leave the knob untouched. After a few seconds, the radio will save your chosen color display automatically.

Tips for the Best Color Display Experience

• Match your dashboard: Coordinating your color display with your car’s interior lighting creates a seamless look.
• Consider visibility: Opt for high-contrast colors for easier reading at night or in sunlight.
• Experiment with custom mixes: The RGB mode allows endless combinations—find one that’s soothing and practical for your daily driving.

Common Questions About Radio Color Display Customization

• Can I revert to factory settings? – Yes, simply repeat the steps above and select the original preset or do a system reset per your radio’s manual.
• Will changing the color display affect other settings? – No, color changes are independent. Your audio presets and saved stations remain untouched.
• What’s the best color for night driving? – Many drivers prefer red or amber since they reduce eye strain in low light.

Conclusion: Make Your Radio Display Uniquely Yours

Adjusting the color display on your RetroSound radio is a quick and easy way to personalize your vehicle and enhance usability. By following the steps above, you can set a display that matches your style, visibility needs, or mood. Why settle for the default blue when your options are nearly limitless?

Ready to try it yourself? Power on your radio, follow our guide, and give your dashboard a fresh look today! If you found this tutorial helpful, share your favorite color display settings in the comments or contact us for more expert car audio tips.

Muscle, Style, and Modern Touches—The 1964–67 GTO Still Has It All

The origin of the GTO—one of the most iconic muscle cars in American history—is rooted in a little rebellion. At the time, Pontiac’s Chief Engineer John Z. DeLorean was looking to build something that went beyond the brand’s usual mild-mannered image. His vision: take a humble mid-size Tempest and drop in a big V8. Simple idea. Big impact. That early idea took shape in 1963, when DeLorean’s team realized the Tempest’s engine mounts could accommodate the 389-cubic-inch V8 borrowed from the full-size Bonneville. The test mule? A LeMans coupe fitted with a four-barrel carburetor and heavy-duty four-speed. The result wasn’t just quick—it was flat-out fun. They called it the GTO, a nod to Ferrari’s Gran Turismo Omologato, but this was no sleek Italian thoroughbred. It was a rowdy, customizable street machine—and it hit a nerve with buyers. By 1966, the GTO had become its own model, cementing its place in muscle car lore.

Each year from 1964 through 1967 brought refinements in performance, style, and comfort. And while performance was key, many enthusiasts appreciated the small upgrades that elevated the driving experience. The base models started with a 325-horsepower version of the 389 paired to a three-speed manual—solid, but ripe for upgrades. Tri-Power setups, four-speeds, and other bolt-on performance options made the GTO a tailor-made experience for each owner.

Much like it was back then, today’s restorers still enjoy the freedom to build their GTO their way. That’s especially true when it comes to adding modern features without losing the car’s vintage vibe. One standout option is the RetroSound RetroRadio for the 1964–67 GTO. It includes the Motor 4 for Bluetooth streaming and hands-free calling, all wrapped in a factory-style face that fits seamlessly into the original dash—no cutting, no compromise.

And it's not just about the dash. If you're restoring a 1964–1967 model, you’ll want to consider adding a dual voice coil dash speaker —a great upgrade that allows for stereo sound through a single speaker location. Better still, the RetroSound RetroRadio offers serious audio control while retaining a period-correct aesthetic.

Back in 1964, Pontiac built over 32,000 GTOs as part of the LeMans line. When buying or restoring one, documentation matters. That’s where the Pontiac Historical Society can help—providing factory records that confirm which options a car was originally equipped with. Useful when restoring, and even more so when reselling.

By 1966, the GTO had stepped into its own identity. That year alone saw nearly 100,000 sold—thanks to aggressive styling, big performance, and growing street cred. The 389 still delivered, but in 1967 it gave way to the 400-cubic-inch V8, which became a mainstay for Pontiac muscle for the next decade. It’s also worth noting that the 1967 model introduced the legendary Turbo Hydra-Matic automatic transmission, a massive leap over the old two-speed Powerglide.

Inside, the cars were also evolving. In 1966, GM introduced Strato bucket seats, more ergonomic dash controls, and a more comfortable overall layout. And in 1967, safety took a leap forward with features like a padded dash, collapsible steering column, and front disc brakes. For anyone doing a serious restoration, these are good years to target.
Of course, style remained just as important as performance. From taillight louvers in '66 to the updated grille and integrated rocker trim in '67, Pontiac made sure each year had its own look. These changes are key for restorers aiming for authenticity—right down to the antenna. Thankfully, RetroSound offers exact-fit fender-mount antennas for the GTO that are designed to bolt right in, with no cutting or fabrication needed.

So what’s the best GTO to buy? That’s always up for debate. The 1966’s grille and taillights have a special charm, but the added safety and power of the 1967 make it hard to beat. And with parts readily available—from dash speakers to kick panel speaker pods—restoring either year can be more enjoyable and less of a scavenger hunt.
No matter which year you choose, the first-gen GTO is one of those rare cars that offers timeless style, raw performance, and a healthy dose of history. Whether you're hunting for a numbers-matching showpiece or building a weekend cruiser with hidden upgrades like a RetroSound premium dual voice coil dash speaker, the best GTO is the one you can drive—and enjoy.

Want to upgrade your GTO without compromising its classic charm?

Explore period-correct radios, speakers, antennas, and more for your GTO at Retro Manufacturing:

Shop for the 64-68 Pontiac GTO

Shop for the 69-72 Pontiac GTO

The Original Wonder Bar Radio

The original Wonder Bar radio (introduced by General Motors in the late 1940s) was the one of the first car radios that could automatically seek to the next strongest station. The auto-seek worked quite differently than modern radios do today, but the idea is the same – the radio would auto-seek to the next strong station. The driver could adjust the desired fidelity setting for the auto-seek to a higher or lower strength signal by turning the sensitivity knob. After setting the signal strength, the driver would simply press the Wonder Bar, causing the radio to automatically tune up to the first station that came in clearly above the selected signal strength. Pressing the Wonder Bar again would seek forward again to the next available station – and so on.

Most radios nowadays have auto-seek, and most people don't even realize that there was a time when auto-seek did not exist. Modern radios can seek forward and backward, and they don't require the user adjusting a signal strength sensitivity setting in order for the radio to properly seek. The Wonder Bar radio was a revolutionary design in its era and paved the way for more advanced forms of auto-seek. These radios are becoming more and more scarce, and they are so limited in functionality that many people opt to install more modern radios into their classics. There are few options available for people who would like to upgrade their radio, and for many years the only option was to cut out a rectangle in the dash and install an ugly modern radio that did not match the timeless look of these classic cars. RetroSound has developed another option. 

(RetroSound Wonder Bar^® Radio Pictured for 1958 Corvette)

RetroSound's Wonder Bar^® Radio

RetroSound recently released a new Wonder Bar^® radio that maintains the looks of the original but boasts modern features. While it looks the same, RetroSound's Wonder Bar^® is quite different from the original with features such as built-in Bluetooth® for hands-free streaming and calling, Apple iPod/iPhone compatibility, AUX and USB ports for portable devices and SiriusXM-Ready™ for satellite radio. Wonder Bar^® is a direct replacement for the original Wonder Bar^® radio common to many classic GM vehicles, but now you can enjoy modern sound and modern technology with the look of the original radio. RetroSound's Wonder Bar^® also features a fully functional Wonder Bar. On the surface, it seems to operate similarly to the original. But this is a full-featured modern radio complete with modern electronics. Unlike the original, the Wonder Bar on RetroSound's radio can seek forward or backward depending on which side of the Wonder Bar the driver presses – press it on the left, and it seeks backward; press it on the right to seek forward. The Wonder Bar also controls MP3s and streaming audio playing via Bluetooth®, USB or from your Apple device – pressing the Wonder Bar on the left side reverses and skips backward, while pressing on the right side fast forwards and skips forward. RetroSound's Wonder Bar^® features a fully digital display – customizable to more than 32,000 colors – as well as 25 watts RMS x 4 channels and RCA outputs for external amplifiers and subwoofers. Static-cling screen protectors with Chevrolet logos are available to complete that classic look. These screen protectors are officially licensed GM products and give RetroSound's Wonder Bar^® the appearance of an original Wonder Bar radio dial – plus they are easy to apply and remove. For more information on RetroSound's Wonder Bar^® radio, click here.

What Are Dual Voice Coil Speakers?

When it comes to car audio, dual voice coil (DVC) speakers are a pretty cool upgrade over the traditional single voice coil (SVC) speakers. Essentially, a DVC speaker has two separate voice coils, each with its own set of connections, inside one speaker. This gives you more flexibility in wiring and overall better sound quality.

But where did DVC speakers come from? Well, they started gaining popularity as car audio systems evolved. Enthusiasts and manufacturers wanted more options for wiring and better control over impedance, which helps with optimizing the power coming from your amp. For classic car owners, DVC speakers are a solid choice because they let you upgrade your sound without needing a ton of space —perfect for older vehicles where space can be tight.

So why choose a DVC speaker? They’re versatile, easy to work with, and give you more wiring options. Whether you're after more bass, clearer highs, or just want your music to sound better overall, DVC speakers deliver.

Standard DVC Series

5"x7" DVC 2-way Dash Speaker

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Premium DVC Series

4"x10" DVC Ultra-thin 2-way Dash Speaker

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How Do Dual Voice Coil Speakers Work?

So, what makes a dual voice coil speaker special? Let’s break it down.

A standard single voice coil speaker has one coil and one set of connections. A dual voice coil speaker, on the other hand, has two separate coils inside, each with its own positive and negative connection. These coils can be wired in different ways—either in series or parallel—depending on what you're trying to achieve with your sound system.

In simple terms, wiring in parallel lowers the impedance (usually to 2 ohms), which can make your amp push out more power. Wiring in series increases the impedance (up to 8 ohms), which can protect your amp if you’re running a higher-powered system. This is super useful when you're fine-tuning your setup to get the best sound and performance from your speakers and amp.

If you really want to get technical, the dual voice coils give the speaker more control over how it handles the electrical signal coming from the amplifier. This means better clarity, more power handling, and overall improved performance compared to a single voice coil setup.

The Benefits of Dual Voice Coil Speakers

Why go with a dual voice coil speaker instead of sticking with the more traditional single voice coil speaker? There are actually quite a few reasons, and they all boil down to versatility and performance.

One of the biggest perks of a DVC speaker is that it gives you multiple wiring options. This flexibility can be a game-changer if you're trying to get the most out of your amp. By adjusting how you wire the coils—either in series or parallel—you can tweak the impedance to match your amplifier’s sweet spot. This lets you get the best performance without overheating or damaging your gear.

Another benefit is power handling. DVC speakers tend to handle more power than their single coil counterparts, which is great if you’re running a more powerful system or if you’re just looking to get more volume and clarity from your setup.

And of course, there's the sound quality. Because of the extra voice coil, DVC speakers generally produce more accurate and detailed sound. This is especially important in a classic car where you might not have a lot of room for big subwoofers or multiple speakers. With DVC speakers, you get better sound without needing a ton of extra equipment.

All in all, dual voice coil speakers give you more control and better performance, which is why they’re such a popular choice for anyone upgrading their car audio system.

Why Dual Voice Coil Speakers are Perfect for Classic Cars

When upgrading the sound system in a classic car, you often run into a couple of challenges—limited space and the desire to keep things looking original. That’s where dual voice coil (DVC) speakers come in handy.

DVC speakers let you maximize sound quality without needing a ton of extra gear. Because they’re versatile, they can handle more power and give you more wiring options to work with, making them ideal for classic cars where space is tight. You can install one speaker and still get stereo sound, which is a huge plus when you're dealing with smaller or tricky-to-modify areas.

And the best part? Many DVC speakers work beautifully with RetroSound radios, which are designed for classic cars. You get modern audio performance without losing that vintage look.

There’s also the added benefit of not having to mess with major modifications to your car’s interior. DVC speakers help you keep things simple and sound great without needing an entire overhaul of your audio setup.

A standard speaker has only a single voice coil and are perfect for standard stereo setups using multiple speakers. These are called single voice coil (SVC) speakers. A dual voice coil (DVC) speaker is a little bit different. A dual voice coil speaker has two voice coils that allow a single speaker to output both stereo channels through one speaker, creating a stereo sound from a single speaker location. Many classic cars came with only one speaker installed in the dashboard. Dual voice coil speakers are perfect for replacing a standard dash speaker, because they allow both stereo channels to come through from a single location.

Another advantage that a dual voice coil speaker has over a standard speaker is more control of impedance depending on how you wire it. A standard speaker can only be wired one way, but with a dual voice coil speaker you have much more flexibility.

For example, the standard wiring technique for a dual voice coil speaker is to wire with both channels in as left and right speakers – which uses both voice coils for a stereo mix.

Another method is to wire both voice coils in series. This will make the voice coils work together to create a 8 ohm mono speaker (most older dash speakers were mono 8 ohm or 10 ohm speakers.

RetroSound® offers many different sizes of dual voice coil speakers. For more information about different types of speakers, visit the following link: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/pages/speaker-basics.

Most aftermarket car radios will slide directly into the single DIN slot without an adapter kit. Until now, the only solution for the mid-1970s-2000s Mopar, Ford, and GM vehicles with a 1.5 DIN opening has been to install a standard DIN-sized radio with the help of an unsightly adapter kit. Retro Manufacturing has solved that problem with the 2019 Global Media Award winning New York radio. Now you can maintain the classic look of your interior while enjoying all the modern features of a new radio.

The RetroSound New York is a direct-fit replacement radio for mid-1970s-2000s Mopar, Ford, and GM vehicles that came equipped with a standard 1.5 DIN factory radio. The New York is designed to look like the original radio found in many of GM’s G-Body vehicles. The very popular Buick Grand National and Chevy Monte Carlo are among these vehicles. Although many performance upgrades are available for the G-Body market, the interior and audio categories have been overlooked.

The New York looks and fits like the original factory radio but boasts the most modern technological features. Bluetooth connectivity allows you to connect almost any smartphone for hands-free calling and wireless music streaming. An Apple Made iPod/iPhone interface is also built-in. The unit is also SiriusXM ready. The display and backlit buttons are completely customizable to any color. If you have a custom gauge cluster you can set the display color on the New York to match and really tie your interior lighting together.

The highly anticipated RetroSound New York is scheduled to be available January 2020.

SEMA Season 2019 has finally passed. SEMA Season?  Yes, SEMA is officially four days, but planning takes months. This year the show ran from Tuesday, November 5^th through Friday, November 8^th. Retro Manufacturing began planning for SEMA back in May, even though the show is technically local. The show is held at the Las Vegas Convention Center which is approximately 30 minutes away from Henderson, Nevada where Retro Manufacturing is based. SEMA Exhibitors come from all over the world to take part in the four-day show. Tedious planning and detailed checklists are a must. Planning flight and hotel reservations, booth layout, and graphics, ensuring booth displays arrive in time, setup and teardown, scheduling meetings, and walking the show to see all exhibits that are pertinent.

New Products and Award

SEMA is a ton of work, but it plays a vital role in shaping the year to come. It gives manufacturers a chance to meet with vendors and industry associates, make new contacts, discuss issues and solutions, view innovative products, and learn about services available to the industry. Whether looking for parts, tools, equipment, or software and services, chances are it can be found at SEMA. The New Products Showcase at the SEMA Show provides exhibitors with the opportunity to introduce new products, packaging and merchandising displays to industry buyers and media. This year over 3,000 new products were showcased at SEMA. Retro Manufacturing showcased the Daytona, Detroit with non-volatile memory, and soon to be released New York radios. The Daytona radio won an ARMO (American Restoration Market Organization) award and a Global Media Award. The New York radio also won a Global Media Award and is receiving lots of interest on social media. The New York radio is Retro Manufacturing’s latest 1.5 DIN radio for GM G-Body and Mopar applications. 

Sponsored Vehicles

This year in the Retro Manufacturing booth was the extremely popular “Grasshopper” truck. The Grasshopper is a 1965 mid-engine Ford Econoline featuring a direct-fit RetroSound Huntington radio. It’s hard to miss a glossy green truck with painted flames, chrome blower that sits above the roof line, and headers sitting above the bed pointed at your chest. It was an absolute crowd favorite. So much so, the History Channel, A&E Network, and a handful of smaller media organizations stopped by the Retro Manufacturing booth to film it. So, keep your eyes open and I’m sure you’ll see the Grasshopper on TV and all over social media.

What do Brown Sugar, Night Train, and Patron have in common? Yup! You guessed it. RetroSound radios. Retro Manufacturing sponsored all three SEMA builds with RetroSound Long Beach radios. Brown Sugar is a Square-body camper with a modern take on the Desert Fox paint scheme. The camper looks normal on the outside, but I can promise you not much sleeping goes on in there. It has a built-in bar, wood floor and one heck of a sound system.

Night Train is a 1970 C50 crew cab car hauler with a custom interior that can lay its frame on the ground.  The truck is so nice you wouldn’t want to put a vehicle on its bed.

The other vehicle Retro Manufacturing sponsored is El Gran Patron. An absolutely beautiful 1971 Chevrolet Chevelle. Custom everything! It even has a special compartment in the trunk for a bottle of tequila. No drinking and driving this work of art.

If the opportunity to attend SEMA is presented, take advantage and experience an unforgettable event.

For instance, we all know the importance of avoiding flat spots on our tires, but which method do you prefer? Do you set the vehicle on jack stands, or do you use race ramps? Or do you inflate your tires to the manufacturer specs, park on concrete, and hope for the best?  There are pros and cons to each method. To keep insects and rodents out we must seal off the exhaust and any air inlets. Do you accomplish this with plastic bags, steel wool, moth balls, or a combination of the methods? Some guys believe in rolling the windows all the way up, while some leave a small opening to prevent condensation from forming.  

The other major concern we must deal with during winter storage is battery life. Some people remove the battery completely, while some disconnect the cables. Either way, when cruising season rolls back around, we often question whether our battery is good. We often wonder, will it hold a charge? Does it need to be replaced? This is especially true if you live in an area where you experience cold winters.

Luckily there is a solution that doesn’t break the bank. The answer is a battery keeper or maintainer. This device is different from a charger. A battery keeper like the Exile EX-1 produced by Retro Manufacturing will charge and maintain your battery for months of worry-free maintenance. The EX-1 keeps your battery in peak shape by providing a conditioning charge any time voltage begins to drop. This "pulse charge" maintains the battery without over-charging the battery, which leads to much longer battery life. It also features an LED battery status indicator so you can easily see your battery’s state of charge. The unit is also waterproof so it can be permanently mounted to your vehicle. Talk about convenient! The Exile EX-1 is perfect for anyone who doesn’t drive their vehicle every day.

Regardless of your methods, we all agree that what we do off the road, is important to keep our rides on the road. Below you’ll find a basic list of things to keep in mind when storing your classic ride for the winter:

1. Dry location.
2. Battery maintenance.
3. Thorough wash and detail. Be careful with the car cover.
4. Top off fluids/oil change.
5. Full tank with fuel stabilizer.
6. Seal off air inlets and exhaust.
7. Avoid tire flat spots.
8. Prevent condensation.
9. Update your insurance information if needed.
10. Order more parts for next season.

 Please Note: As of November 2023 the Exile Battery Keeper is now discontinued and out of stock.

Understanding RMS Watts, Peak Watts, and Max Watts - As you explore car audio products online, it's important to distinguish between "RMS watts," "peak watts," and "max watts." Some manufacturers and retailers focus on peak watts, others show RMS, and many show both ratings. At first glance you’re naturally inclined to go for the larger number while ignoring what type of rating is being displayed. A product boasting 100 watts of peak power you may think is the superior product to the one next to it advertising 50 watts RMS, however a closer look will reveal that the first 100-Watt product is also rated at 50 watts RMS. To confuse things more some manufacturers will also list max watts leaving you scratching your head wondering what it all means. We’re happy to break it down for you and show you why it’s best to focus on both peak and RMS ratings and why RMS is the best comparative measurement to use. Its best to visualize RMS, Peak, and Max ratings on a graph to better understand their relationships:

The Key Difference between RMS and peak power - Looking at the graph above, the blue line represents a sound wave at various watts. The peak of the waveform is the maximum voltage that the waveform will ever reach, often this peak value lasts only a fraction of a second. RMS (Root-Mean-Square) is the average effective value of the waveform, in other words, it’s the continuous power output of an amplifier or the optimal power handling of a speaker.

Let’s dive a little deeper on the subject:

Peak Power

In simple terms, peak power is the maximum watts an amplifier can produce before the signal breaks down causing distortion. Typically, this peak wattage is sustainable for only a moment, often less than a second, before it could potentially lead to a breakdown of the amplifier’s components. This principle applies similarly to speakers, where peak power handling denotes the highest voltage, a speaker can endure for a momentary period without causing damage. While there isn't a precise definition for the duration of this peak level, it's generally very brief. Consistently running an audio system at full peak power would result in significant distortion, making it extremely uncomfortable to listen. Pushing a speaker to its peak limits could lead to a driver, such as a tweeter, being blown out, ultimately ruining the speaker.

Max Power

Most manufacturers advertise a maximum (max) power rating as well. This rating typically signifies the highest power level that the equipment can safely endure without facing failure. Unlike the somewhat arbitrary nature of peak power, a max power rating provides a more realistic and reliable measure of the maximum capacity that the device can handle safely. Although an audio system can perform for prolonged periods at max levels doing so will cause excessive heat to the internal components. Many modern amplifiers, such as the RetroSound Quadraphonic and Technophonic models, come equipped with thermal protection circuits. These circuits are designed to deactivate the unit once it reaches a certain temperature, preventing critical failure. However, prolonged operation at maximum power can accelerate the degradation of internal components. Similarly, with speakers, extended operation at maximum power levels can lead to overheating of the voice coils, eventually resulting in damage.

RMS Power

In contrast, RMS power denotes the continuous output of an amplifier or the continuous power-handling capacity of a speaker. While RMS values are generally lower than peak power ratings, they provide a more accurate reflection of the genuine capabilities of an amplifier or speaker. Consider RMS as a true listening rating, capturing the sustained power levels for an uninterrupted audio experience. Although not a flawless method of comparison, RMS ratings are often comparable, particularly when evaluating products from reputable brands. Listening to a system at RMS levels will provide the best clarity in the audio signal with no distortion providing a balanced and uninterrupted listening experience.

The Key for the Best Audio

What's the key takeaway here? When you're in the market for a radio, speaker, or amplifier, prioritize checking the RMS power rating. Keep in mind that peak power is the maximum amount of power the amplifier or speaker can handle before failing, while max power is the highest amount that can be safely sustained. RMS, on the other hand, represents continuous power handling at sustained listening levels. For the best audio experience in your classic vehicle, focus on the RMS power rating, as it provides a closer approximation of the amplifier or speaker's actual performance.

When auditing your classic electrical system the first thing you’re going to want to do is to create a plan of breaking down the various systems; the low tensions side, high tension side, charging system, starting system, wires (including switches and relays), fuses and fuse box, electrical components, and light bulbs. This will help you to pinpoint underlying issues more easily. Also, it’s important to make sure that you do your best to try and locate a factory service manual (if available) that includes a wiring diagram. These aren’t always available for classics but it’s worth doing your research ahead of time to save you headaches in the long run.

Start with the following checks when reviewing the systems in your car.

Wiring Harnesses

As classics age, the electrical wires get dirty and brittle and lose conductivity. The wiring harness and switches may be 50 years old or older and were never initially designed to last that long. Distributors and coils cannot work efficiently if they don't get the full voltage they require.

Many classic car electrical issues are as simple as loose and corroded connections, a blown fuse, or a melted fusible link. If several electrical components aren't working, that may indicate a fuse or ground connection.

Ensure proper wiring is crucial for optimal radio performance. RetroSound Radios, with their modern internal components, require reliable electrical connections for optimal sound quality and to prevent damage.

Electrical Test Light

A test light is invaluable for finding electrical shorts. Be sure to use an automotive test lamp which works with 12 volt systems. They sell for under $10. The leads of the test light are reversible. One end goes to a positive and the other end goes to a ground.

Always start by testing the light on the car's battery. Depending on what you testing for, you may have to turn the ignition switch on. Most test lights have a sharp pointed end. Use this to pierce the plastic insulation on a wire. Now you can test the circuit without disconnecting anything.

Use a Digital Multimeter

A multimeter is a test tool instrument designed to measure electrical values such as voltage (volts), current (amps), and resistance (ohms). There are two main types of multimeters, analog and digital. Digital is by far more common, they have an easy-to-read numeric display, and one can be had for less than $20.

Although you can run dozens of tests with a multimeter, I use mine for about two. To check if a wire is good or bad, connect one test probe to one end of the wire, and the other test probe to the other end of the wire. With the MM on ohm setting, it should read .02 or less. Anything higher than that, replace the wire and/or the terminals.

Battery Cables and Terminals

Check the battery cables; make sure the cables fit firmly and securely on the battery posts. There should be no wiggle in them. Also make sure that the cables going to the terminals are in good shape. If not, replace them.

A weak battery can cause dim radio lights or even prevent it from turning on. RetroSound Radios are designed to be efficient, but a healthy battery is essential for their proper operation.

Ground Straps

Another area of concern is the condition of the ground straps. All old cars need a good electrical ground from engine to frame and engine to firewall. Often, these straps are old and grimy and need to be cleaned or replaced. If you start looking through your car, you may notice several ground straps from the factory, and some may have disappeared over the years.

Aside from the cable from the negative post on the battery to the engine block, there may also be a strap from the engine to the firewall, from the dash to the body, from the body to the frame or the battery negative post, and a strap from the frame to the engine block. Make sure your grounds have clean connections and are in good shape. If you're not sure, replace them or add another one.

Checking Low Tension Side

To perform a simple check, switch the headlights on, then watch them while a helper cranks the starter. They should dim slightly, and the starter should turn at it's usual speed. If the headlights go dim while the starter turns slowly, either the battery is low or it's connections are bad. Check positive and negative battery cables to be clean and tight. Also check ground straps from motor to frame.

Parasitic Draw

The easiest way of finding a parasitic draw is to use a multimeter. With the vehicle off, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Check that the car doors are shut and other accessories turned off. Set your multimeter to 10 amps DC, touch the positive lead to your disconnected negative battery cable, and touch the ground lead to your negative battery post. If your meter shows anything above 50 milliamps, you have a parasitic draw.

Points Ignition

Most vintage vehicles are equipped with a points/condenser ignition system, which is straightforward to comprehend and troubleshoot. When functioning correctly, a points ignition system performs excellently and should provide 10,000 to 15,000 miles of service. For a classic car that covers a distance of 1,000 miles annually, this system is relatively hassle-free.

6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion

If you're looking to drive your classic car more often, or thinking of adding power accessories such as an aftermarket radio and amplifier, electric cooling fan, power windows or power seats, halogen headlights, or LED tail lights, convert your 6-volt car to 12-volts. If not, a 6-volt system in good shape should continue getting the job done.

If you're upgrading your vehicle's audio system, the RetroSound 6-12 Volt Converter ensures compatibility by safely converting your car's 6-volt system to 12 volts, allowing you to install modern electronics without compromising performance or safety.

For a seamless and stylish audio upgrade, consider a RetroSound Radio. Visit our Radio Features page to explore the full range of options and find the perfect fit for your classic car.

Whether it is going for a stroll on a random night, or a spontaneous road trip with your best friends, music is always a necessity for any fun journey. Blaring music in your car can be therapeutic, create a forever lasting memory, or simply just make life that much more fun. It can be very difficult to ever imagine any sort of car trip without music - but believe it or not - the radio was not always equipped to automobiles. In fact, radios would be around for nearly 20 years before the process of integrating them into vehicles would begin.

History of the Radio

On Christmas Eve of 1906, the first radio would make its way onto the scene with Reginald Aubrey Fesseden producing the first ever public voice broadcast. Of course initial integrations of the radio had very limited functionality but this entertainment would spark the beginning of the evolution of the radio as we know it today. Over the next few years the radio would begin to evolve and innovators found themselves interested in trying to create a usable radio in a vehicle. In 1922, Chevrolet would release its car radio at a whopping price of $200. The radio would prove to have much more inconveniences than it did enjoyment for the customer. Different companies would adjust their radios based on the short comings of Chevrolet and by 1930, Galvin Manufacturing would introduce the now well-known brand name “Motorola” - the first affordable, commercially successful car radio.  The introduction of this technology to the public would provide a springboard for Motorola to grow into the huge company it is today.

The Struggles Addressed in the First Installations of the Car Radio

As mentioned before, different companies tried integrating radios within a car but could not completely construct a successful radio installation.  A variety of complications presented throughout the process of incorporating this mobile technology. Creating a successful installation into a car wasn’t going to be as simple as just placing the radio in and powering it. Engineers had to develop a way to power the radio, store the radio, and produce a static free sound that made the listening experience enjoyable.

Connecting the electronics to the already complex electrical system within a vehicle created a lot of static due to the electrical. By eliminating and integrating certain electrical circuits the sound became clearer and much more enjoyable. A separate battery system was initially put into place in order power the radio by itself. After powering the radio, its components were broken up into in order to conveniently fit the radio within the car. By breaking up the radio into separate parts, the radio was much easier to place into side panels and the dashboard of the vehicle.

Once the radio was successfully integrated into the car, one last problem remained. There was a concern with maintaining a strong enough connection between the radio and different broadcasting signals in a mobile environment. The radio reception in a moving car was very different compared to a standstill radio plugged in at home. Due to the inconsistency of signal from the car going in and out of broadcast signal range, a bigger antenna was developed and installed in order to successfully maintain signals.

The Progression of the Car Radio    

From struggles to maintain AM signals to wireless Bluetooth connectivity, the car radio today shows it’s come a long way from the initial Motorola prototypes. From the 1930s to around the 1980s, AM radio was the preferred broadcasting signal for the general public, mostly because it had become an industry standard. It wasn’t until the very late 1970s that the industry began the transition to FM signals, which had been around for decades already. Between all of this, the 1960s brought along the 8-track which was a repeated loop of magnetic tape that produced its name; 8 tracks. This allowed listeners to control their own preference of music and would eventually lead to the invention of the cassette player. The cassette player retained a lot of its hype for many years but would eventually be phased out in favor of the CD players in the 80s. )Add some more context about where we’re at currently(

Current Day Capabilities

Restoring a retro ride is no small task and involves varying degrees of difficulty depending on the situation.  Your best approach is to take into consideration a number of factors that will contribute to the bottom line costs before you decide to pull from the piggybank and embark on the long road of automotive redemption.  Below, we’ve provided a list of suggestions to look out for when looking to start this journey.

First and foremost, you should consider the how much you’re willing to invest in a project, both financially and with respect to your time.  In the beginning of your search, you need to have these details accounted for otherwise you risk getting involved in a project that could drains your ambition as well as your wallet.  Starting out, here are some of the things you should keep in mind

• Seems obvious, but buy it because you want it. Sure, classic cars can be a great investment but don’t rush to purchase something just because of an opportunity.  Sometimes your investment works out but conversely sometimes you’re left with a project that taxes your pockets and your interest.
  
  
• In the age of information, use the tools at your fingertips. Nowadays with the internet and all of the easily accessible historical values and comparables buyers can be armed the most accurate assessment of the vehicle’s value before getting behind the wheel.
  
  

Once you decide on the type of restoration that you’re looking to undertake things get a little more granular and you should begin evaluating things that relate specifically to the vehicle you’re seeking out:

• Run away from rust – unless you’re looking for a major project.
  
  
• Consider the color. Much like modern day cars, color can play a large part in the value of the vehicle. 
  
  
• Quality over quantity. A big portion of value in a vehicle can result from the number of models produced by the manufacturer. 
  
  
• Mileage makes a difference. Sure, that when considering a car with decades of experience it would seem like mileage doesn’t matter but in reality the amount of wear and tear can be used as a good gauge for bargaining and reflecting on the work you’re willing to put in. 
  
  
• Consider the context. Installed options can play a big part of the value on a particular vehicle.
  
  
• Check the vehicle identification numbers. Matching these codes make a substantial difference with regards the overall value of the vehicle   

Additionally, it’s worth pointing out that muscle cars will always have a pretty active market and big blocks generally bring big bucks. And while vehicles from the 1980s might not be at the very top of your dream project list, they have been slowly increasing in value – these intrinsic time capsules may not be the most attractive platforms over the decades but they’ll no doubt be established as a part of vehicle history as time wears on. 

Now that you’ve carefully curated your choices and gauged the amount of work you’ll need to undertake in order to get your ride roaring again, it’s time to begin mapping out your project.  Everyone’s process and practices vary but below is the suggested industry standard for how to attack this project. 

• Step 1 – Review & Disassembly
  After a long, painstaking search you’ve finally decided on your ride. Now comes the exciting but possibly nerve-wrecking part – the review.  Hopefully prior to acquiring your car you’ve taken the very best measures to get a thorough review of your challenges ahead of time.  That being said, even with the most thorough approach unexpected issues tend to pop up sooner or later.  This is why the review is the first and most important step in any restoration project.  If you’re undertaking a small restoration, you might want to limit your disassembly to only those parts you feel comfortable removing and reinstalling.  If you’re getting involved in a large project, this step will include carefully taking piece by piece off the chassis and logging exactly what needs to be addressed and how.    
  
  
• Step 2 – Components
  Over the years, parts of vehicles succumb to general wear and tear. In a perfect world all owners would make the utmost effort to repair or reinforce these instances but unfortunately that rarely tends to be the case.  Once the vehicle as been disassembled and carefully reviewed, it’s important to look for these weaknesses in component pieces which includes things like latches, levers, and tabs. Any parts that contribute to the structural integrity of the vehicle should be improved or addressed prior to any major further investment is made.
  
  
• Step 3 – Paint Removal
  If this is a major project that includes a complete respray, this is where you painstakingly remove the old coat in preparation for the facelift. This step is only attributed to those who are probably rebuilding from the ground up.
  
  
• Step 4 – Metal Fabrication
  Let’s face it, we might not stand up quite as straight as we did when we were 18 and our classic rides have a tendency to follow suit. Consequently, we might need to reshape or reinforce our rides from things like corrosion, cracks or maybe just a couple of door dings.   
  
  
• Step 5 – Trim
  This step includes evaluating and reinstalling any structural components that might need to be added to the project. These should be included once we’ve straightened and aligned the body and just before we schedule time in the paint booth.
  
  
• Step 6 – Paint Application
  Here’s where many believe the project really starts to come back to form, when we add the new colorful character that’ll bring the vehicles personality back to life. There are several steps in this process that any good technician understands but for our purposes here, we’ll keep the detail general.  
  
  
• Step 7 – Assembly
  Now that you’ve got all of the pieces to the puzzle, it’s time to start reconstructing the dream. Care and caution should be stressed here considering the amount of detailed work that’s gone into getting to this point of the process.  It’s important to have a blueprint of how to install each of your parts so that there’s minimal redundancy or doubling back based on oversight.
  
  
  
• Step 8 – Upholstery
  Optimally, you’ll have already made your decision on upholstery when you decided what color you were going to respray your vehicle. Now that the exterior shell has come together, its time to start reconstructing the refined interior based on your preferences.  This step includes the interior pieces such as seating, ceiling (headliner), and sound system. 
  
  
• Step 9 – Refinement
  Whether you replaced or retuned the motor, redesigned the interior, or just renewed the spirit of the vehicle itself, once you’ve finished the past 8 steps it’s time to go over your hard work with a fine tooth comb to make any last tweaks that might be necessary. You’ve invested a lot in getting got this point so there’s no reason to let it be ruined by minor rattles.
  
  
• Step 10 – Enjoyment
  This could be called the rebirth step. This is the point that builders and restorers dream about.  That moment when the fresh wheels hit the open road and allow you to celebrate your dedication and hard work that earned you this opportunity. 
  
  

You probably knew this before reading this blog post, but restoring a proper classic is no easy task.  It’s not for the faint of heart, and isn’t appreciated but those who like to cut corners.  It’s a painstaking process that’s rewarding from beginning to end.  There’s nothing quite like that first time those wheels are rolled out of the garage and onto the open road, just don’t forget the radio…

• Stereophonic 
• Quadraphonic
• Technophonic

But which is right for your application?  And why do you even need one of these things?  Well, this short post should answer those questions for you. 

For starters, I’d like to point out that all RetroSound RetroRadios™ come with a built-in 4 channel amplifier powerful enough to operate a complete system in your your restoration or upgraded vehicle.  That being said, supplementing your system with an appropriate amplifier still provides a number of benefits that we’ll outline below.

Let’s start with the purpose of an amplifier, which is actually three-fold.  First, adding an aftermarket amplifier will provide you with superior sound quality by way of a cleaner signal, more defined volume, and generally higher power output (depending upon your speakers).  Secondly, having this additional power allows you the opportunity to not only install better speakers but also maximize their potential power output ratings.  Lastly, it also provides the power necessary to operate larger drivers like subwoofers which complete the range of your audio system by adding the bass balance that is generally lacking from basic audio setups. 

RetroSound amplifiers are designed to work in conjunction with RetroSound speakers and other components but they can also help to improve your current audio setup depending upon your vehicle specific needs.  Let’s talk about the number of channel s that you’ll need when selecting the right amplifier for your setup.  Channels should be considered speaker outputs in that you should look at an amplifier that supplies the appropriate number of channels that matches the amount of speakers in your audio system.  For example, here’s how you might use the lineup of RetroSound amplifiers based on your application:

Stereophonic amplifier (3 Channel Amp) Starting at $199.99- Our Stereophonic amp is a great solution for classic truck owners interested in powering a full system within their cab.  We recommend using this amplifier to power your door speakers and a subwoofer allowing for a complete audio system in a compact space.  If you’ve installed a replacement dash speaker, we recommend utilizing the built-in amplifier from your RetroRadio to power this unit.

Quadraphonic amplifier (4 Channel Amp) Starting at $159.99 - Our Quadraphonic amplifier was designed for owners looking to power stock components or a mildly upgraded system.  This unit could be used to power all four corners of your vehicle while again utilizing the RetroRadio to power an in-dash speaker if applicable.

Technophonic (5 Channel Amp) Starting at $299.99- Our Technophonic amplifier was designed for customers looking to get the most out of their sound system.  A full 5 channels allows you to effectively power all four corners of your vehicle while also including a subwoofer output to complete the full range of your system. 

Whether you’re looking to maximize your sound in a condensed space, compliment your current setup, or upgrade to some top of the line performance specs we’ve got a solution to fit your needs.  Our amplifiers all pair perfectly with other RetroSound products and come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Burt Reynolds’ impact on the car community in the late 1970s and early 1980s had a similar impact of that of the late Paul Walker in that they both inspired a new generation of enthusiasts and left a memorable mark for their respective generations.  Be it a black and gold Trans Am, or a silver and blue Skyline GTR their identities will forever be immortalized by their favorite four wheels.

This weekend, September 29, 2018, the very last cars personally owned, titled and registered to the late Burt Reynolds will go on auction at the Barrett Jackson Auto Auction in Mandalay Bay Resort, Las Vegas Nevada.  This is event will be a rare tribute where celebrities, family, friends and car enthusiasts alike will have the opportunity to celebrate his life and legacy left behind. 

Reynolds had planned to sell the cars before he passed and even filmed a short teaser for the auction, which he planned to attend himself.  Up for auction will be the following vehicles: 

1978 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am “Smokey and the Bandit” re-creation (lot 709) 
1978 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am “Hooper” re-creation (lot 710) 
1984 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am USFL Tampa Bay Bandits promo car (lot 711.1) 
1987 Chevrolet R30 Pickup “Cannonball Run” re-creation (lot 711) 

Each of the vehicles featured has been signed during tours and special events by Burt and other actors in his films.  While none of the vehicles were actually used in the movies, they are all registered in his name and are sure to fetch a premium from those collectors who can appreciate and honor the impact he had. 

Classic cars are great, classic sound can be great, classic speakers are far less likely to be great.  Even worse is when you need to replace classic speakers – but hey, that’s where we’ve got you covered. 

Not only do we offer a wide range of replacement and premium speakers for your ride but we also offer solutions that will help ensure these upgrades will work efficiently with your stock radio.  One of the most common issues that we experience in the classic car audio market is that of high impedance components when it comes time to upgrade your audio system.  Classic cars historically featured higher impedance components because at the time the power driving these pieces was far less than today’s standards and therefore the thresholds were much different.  Today, especially in the aftermarket world, manufacturers such as Retro are able to produce much higher quality audio components that greatly improve the listening experience in your ride.

If you haven’t noticed, most if not all replacement speakers are rated at 4-ohms while many classic stock radios came from the stock rated at 8 to 10-ohms.  This is because we’ve taken the time to fine-tune our audio components to provide you the best, balanced sound for your ride.  This is especially true with respect to our dual voice coil “stereo” speakers.

These speakers are specifically designed to create the quality stereo sound within your vehicle’s dash replacing the mono 8 or 10-ohm can that came from the factory all of those years ago.  As you’re probably aware, modern technology has made it possible to produce audio components that both supply and receive greater power and produce a cleaner and more crisp sound.  While these improvements are great for your listening pleasure they can, unfortunately, jeopardize your original audio components such as your stock radio because of its original power output and limited capability. 

While we obviously recommend upgrading your stock deck to a RetroRadio by RetroSound option for functionality and sound quality we also understand that some enthusiasts might prefer to keep their original radios for one reason or another.  To help with this, all of our dual voice coil speakers now include an 8-ohm wiring kit that allows you to install our 4-ohm Dual Voice Coil speaker to function as a single 8-ohm and subsequently making it compatible with your 8 to 10-ohm stock radio.  This is especially useful for those customers that want to replace their factory dash speaker but retain their original working radio.  These wiring kits feature properly terminated and insulated wires with appropriate connectors and are also compatible with chassis ground and radio ground OEM radios. 

With Elvis Presley on vocals, Scotty Moore providing fill and electric guitar riffs, Bill Black on upright bass and drummer D.J. Fontana the “Rockabilly” sound found its way into the pages of history.  The sound was filled with expressive vocals, slap style bass and the infamous Phillips “Sun Echo” studio sound effect combined to make a blueprint that would become wildly popular for generations to come – the mixture of country western and rhythm and blues would be dubbed “Rockabilly”.

The foursome including Elvis ended up touting this new sound throughout the southern United States for 1954 and 1955 both igniting audiences and inspiring a completely new style of musician to emerge.  In addition to this new sound emerging, a number of already established country musicians such a Buddy Holly and Marty Robbins were also making the switch to the “Rockabilly” style.  Believe it or not, almost all of the “Rockabilly” style music recorded during the early years was by individuals who were directly influenced by Elvis – and this was all prior to his first ever big record deal. 

After signing with RCA and recording in Nashville, Elvis would then go on to captivate millions across the world with his performances on prime-time television and equally as momentous record sales.  Following Elvis’ success, artists like Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, Warren Smith, Billy Lee Riley, Sonny Burgess, Carl Perkins, and more would capitalize on this national sensation.  By the end of the 1950s, after the initial intrigue had worn off and more sounds entered into the genre (such as saxophone, background vocals, piano), the original “Rockabilly” sound was no longer the same and incidentally, interest had tapered off in favor of more popular styles. 

“Rockabilly” ended up seeing a pop-culture resurgence in the late 1970s for a variety of reasons, but many attribute this to Elvis’ passing.  Even to date, Rockabilly lives on in a subculture that celebrates the legacy sound and period specific characteristics such as 50s fashion, car culture, and for many the “good-ol” American Dream ideals that people found solace in during the years following World War II.  Rockabilly music takes people back to a time of simple hope and a celebration of American culture. 

A Brief History of 1988-1994 GM Trucks

The late 1980s was a transitional time when poor quality vehicles with little horsepower and less than desirable designs were commonplace. By the middle of the decade, advances in technology helped bring conveniences, safety, and increases in horsepower. Before the late 1980s, the average truck was very utilitarian. Many trucks didn't have seatbelts, air conditioning or radios, and the ones that did still had sloppy steering, heavy brakes and lacked sound-dampening among other modern features. Trucks were generally known to be noisy and uncomfortable to drive.

In the early part of the 1980s, GM had already been working on making their existing trucks more comfortable by adding upgrade packages with many convenient features. By the mid-1980s, GM was also working on their next-generation trucks that began featuring more technology and conveniences that were found in most cars. The new designs were aimed at being more technologically advanced, more comfortable and generally more aligned with standards that consumers came to expect from the rest of the General Motor's lineup. Initial planning began in the early part of the 1980s, and product development began in 1984. The new design was designated as the GMT400 and kept the C/K name badge — with C meaning two-wheel drive and K meaning four-wheel drive.

These trucks were a giant step forward from the older square body design and featured independent front suspension and extensive use of galvanized steel to reduce rust. The frames were fully welded and included boxed front sections which added to the rigidity of the overall vehicle. The new GMT400 design was more aerodynamic and featured a more comfortable interior with electronic speedometers, button-operated climate control and modern radio control systems that mounted beside the instrument panel for easy access.

Throughout years, GM continually improved on the GMT400 platform by gradually increasing horsepower and adding sport packages coupled with additional paint tones. The 1988 model was the first GM truck to offer an extended cab, with later years offering a three-door option.

Why These Trucks are Great Buys Today

The 1988-94 GMT400 series were some of the most popular trucks ever produced. As of 2017, there were over 1 million 1988-94 GM trucks registered and still on the road. They were famous for their durability and reliability. A Wisconsin man once reported logging over 1,000,000 miles on his 1991 C1500 without ever needing a major repair.

These trucks still feature a timeless design that looks great lowered or lifted. Nice examples can still be had for around $5,000 which leaves lots of room for customization. Aftermarket parts are inexpensive and easy to find. Products range from lift/lowering kits and performance products to aftermarket digital gauges and radios that match the look and feel of the interior while bringing modern features like Bluetooth® and SiriusXM satellite radio.

RetroSound® Santa Cruz Radio

Trucks are all the rage, and just a few years ago the square body trucks were extremely affordable. But now low-mileage survivors, restored or custom square bodies can fetch more than $20,000. The 1988-94 GM trucks are starting to rise in price, and they will likely follow the example of the now popular square body trucks. They make great trucks to customize and are reliable enough to drive on a daily basis. 

 It’s that time of the year again where many of us heed the weatherman’s warning and safely store our pride and joy away from the snowy elements and salty roads.  We’re careful to clean, cover and some of us even surround our vehicles with moth balls.  Unfortunately, we needlessly forget one very important step that can end up saving headaches and “wallet-aches” alike.

In other words, many people only realize the importance of a battery charger when the cold winter months arrive, and they wind up with a dead battery.

It’s true, we all like to take care of our cars but the car battery is sometimes neglected and then forgotten to the point of needing a replacement. In fact, this is usually more common with classic cars as they tend to be used infrequently or a lot less than your average car at the very least.

But what does that mean to you?

 Well, you might be expecting some cold weather or maybe you’re sick and tired of trying to resurrect your car battery. For this reason, investing in a battery charger will not only help you avoid these situations but also ensure that your battery will last a lot longer than without one. I

Let’s take a closer look at the impact of cold weather and the importance of a car battery charger:

How Cold Weather Can Impact Your Car Battery

As you know, car batteries can maintain a charge when driving but electronics start to drain this battery as soon as the engine is switched off. Needless to say, this means you should always unplug electronics and make sure both the interior lights and headlights are switched off with the engine.

But that’s just part of the story…

You see, many factors affect the lifespan or condition of a car battery including temperature, humidity and the local environment. In fact, cold weather is arguably the most common of these reasons and one which often ends up with car owners needing to replace a car battery.

In case you might be asking yourself, liquid electrolyte is what enables the car battery to hold a charge. However, this solution is vulnerable in especially cold temperatures which significantly reduces its ability to transfer the power needed to start a car.  

With this in mind, you might live in an especially cold area and a battery charger can be used to maintain the battery over time. For many people, they have a classic car and battery chargers are essential for vehicles that spend more time than usual sitting idle in the garage. On the other hand, maybe you have no idea if a battery can be recharged and you simply need a charger to check if the battery should be replaced.

But what can you do to maintain a car battery and protect this lifespan?

Investing in an Efficient Car Battery Charger for Winter

Although recent studies Indicate the lifespan of a car battery is five or six years, this lifespan is greatly reduced and likely to end when a battery is subjected to cold weather without sufficient maintenance. That is to say, if you can no longer recharge a car battery, you will need a replacement.

Either way, you will need a battery charger to get your car back on the road and it simply makes sense to invest in a battery charger sooner rather than later.

At the same time, not all battery chargers are created equal.

For example, the Exile Ex – 1 Charger is just as effective at maintaining and improving the lifespan of a car battery. What’s more, you can permanently mount this charger next to the battery and use the LED status indicator to monitor the current state of your battery. As if that’s not enough, an Exile Charger is fully waterproof and dust-proof which makes it ideal for all weather conditions and even classic cars or vehicles that spend significant time in storage.

Moral of the story: While the Ex-1 Charger provides a reliable recharge for dead or tired batteries, this kind of charger can also remove any need to recharge or replace a battery in the first place.

For peace of mind and improved car battery performance, Retro Manufacturing is a leading producer of aftermarket parts including the Exile Ex- 1 Battery Keeper.

The Rise and Fall of the Compact Disc

The compact disc was introduced in 1982 and heralded as the first commercially available prerecorded digital audio format. Initially, sales were slow, but by 1985 sales started to grow rapidly. In 1988 CD sales surpassed vinyl LPs, and by 1989 they outsold prerecorded music cassette tapes for the first time ever — thus becoming the most popular audio format. CD sales continued to grow until they peaked in 2002.

In 2003 CD sales began to decline and have been rapidly falling ever since (it's no coincidence that the original iPod was released in 2001). In the United States, CD sales plummeted by 11.6% in 2015 and 18.5% in 2016. In fact, the popularity of CDs has dropped so much that by 2017, CD sales had reached the same level as 1985! 

The Rise of MP3 Players and Streaming Services

The rise of digital downloads and streaming services is mostly to blame, with digital downloads rising steadily since 2001. Streaming services (such as Spotify) have now taken over the top spot — outselling digital downloads and CDs in 2016, and they continue to grow. 

An Obsolete Format

 A decade ago, CD players were commonplace in most home entertainment centers. Nowadays, CD players are increasingly harder to find as home entertainment centers have almost completely disappeared in exchange for smart-TVs and Bluetooth® sound bars. CD players also used to be standard equipment in most cars — just as the cassette had been a decade earlier. But now, many new cars no longer have CD players. Manufacturers have replaced the aging CD player with touch-screen media centers that offer streaming services, hands-free Bluetooth® and can play digital files from portable USB drives. 

Over the years, CD sections in stores have been shrinking as less and less people buy CDs. In January of 2018, Best Buy announced that they will stop selling CDs, and Target may be following suit. With the rise of smart phones that can hold thousands of songs, CDs have gone the way of audio cassettes and 8-tracks and have become obsolete. 

But how do you know which file format will sound the best? Many devices — including RetroSound® RetroRadios™ – are capable of playing back multiple file types such as MP3, WMA and FLAC (more about these file types in a moment). Before you decide which format is going to be best for you, first you need to understand what bitrates are and the difference between lossy and lossless compression.  

Bitrate

Most people who are familiar with digital audio have heard the word "bitrate," and have some kind of an idea of what that term means. In general, the higher the bitrate of your audio file, the higher the quality of the sound.  

The word "bitrate" actually refers to the amount of data (in bits) that is processed in one-second. The bitrate is measured in kbps (kilobits per second). The idea here is: more audio data = higher quality audio, since there is more audio data to decode. In essence, when the bitrate is reduced using lossy compression, audio data is removed — which results in reduced sound quality. Because a higher bitrate results in more audio data, it also results in a larger file size. This is the reason it has become so common to compress audio files — so you can fit more music files on your device. 

Lossy vs Lossless

With audio file formats, there are two types of audio quality: lossless and lossy. Lossless formats retain all of the original audio data. Typically, these are large, uncompressed files with lots of information and very high bitrates. There are also some compressed audio formats that retain lossless audio quality (more on that in a moment). 

Lossy formats are compressed files that lose audio quality as the bitrate and file size is reduced. The files are made smaller by removing audio data that exists beyond a certain frequency range (such as hums and feedback) and by reducing the quality of certain sounds (such as cymbals and high-hats). The higher the bitrate, the more of the original data that is retained. This means that with a higher bitrate, you'll have higher audio quality but a larger file size.  

To make this easier to understand, we've made a couple of very basic diagrams to help you visualize the difference between lossy and lossless compression. Referring to the diagrams below, think of an audio file as a stack of different colored blocks. The different colors in the diagram below represent different audio frequency ranges. 

Lossy Compression

Referencing the diagram below, you'll see that lossy compression removes the less audible frequency ranges (represented by yellow and green blocks) to make the overall file smaller. The audio data that is read back in by your music player no longer processes the deleted data. This results in a smaller file size at the cost of audio quality.

The main benefit of lossy compression is file size. Audio CDs use a lossless format for very accurate sound reproduction. A typical audio CD containing 9 songs might use up 500 megabytes of disk space. But those same 9 songs might only use up 50 megabytes once compressed. 

Lossless Compression

With lossless compression, instead of deleting extra blocks, the redundant blocks are removed and replaced with instructions. For example: In the chart below, you'll see that once our audio file is compressed into a lossless format, two blocks are now represented by one block with the number two. Three blocks are represented by one block with the number three, and so on. When your music player reads the compressed file, it processes the instructions and rebuilds the original file with no loss of the original audio data. It gives you a much smaller file size while retaining the highest possible audio quality. 

The benefit of lossless compression is this retention of audio quality and a reduced file size. The downside is that the file sizes are still larger than with lossy compression, and not all music players support lossless file formats. 

FLAC (Lossless)

FLAC is an acronym for Free Lossless Audio Codec and is a lossless audio format that allows reduced file size with no cost to audio quality. FLAC files are compressed in a way that does not reduce the audio quality, making it one of the best formats available for archiving your music. This compression makes it possible to reduce the file size by up to 60% while retaining all of the raw audio data. 

FLAC was introduced in 2001 as an open-source file type and has grown to one of the most popular audio file formats today. Because it is one of the most popular lossless formats, most modern devices support FLAC playback. Unlike WAV format (the most popular lossless format), FLAC files also retain information tags — storing artist and album information. 

WMA (Lossy)

The WMA format is a lossy audio file — similar to MP3. WMA is an acronym for Windows Media Audio and was first released in 1999 by Microsoft for use with their Windows Media Player. The file format has evolved since its initial launch, but has continually retained the WMA file extension. 

The WMA format is similar to the MP3 format and compresses the audio file in a similar way that leads to a reduction in file size at the cost of reduced audio quality. Because this format is not as widely supported as MP3, there is no advantage to choosing this file type. 

MP3 (Lossy)

MP3 is an acronym for MPEG Layer 3. The MP3 format was originally released all the way back in 1993, and has been steadily gaining in popularity ever since the dot com boom of the 1990s. Today, the MP3 format has become synonymous with digital music, and has become the standard for nearly every digital audio player the world — so much that nearly all digital music players are referred to as MP3 players. 

MP3 is a lossy format originally developed to create a listenable audio file that doesn't use up much disk space. This file-size compression is achieved by cutting out all of the audio data that exists beyond the hearing range of the average person and by reducing the quality of sounds that are more hidden in the mix. The result is a listenable file with a small file size. The quality of an MP3 file can vary considerably depending on bitrate and audio export settings.

So which format is right for you? Well, that depends. Generally for listening to music on the run, a high-bitrate MP3 would be more than sufficient. MP3s are supported by nearly every digital music player in the world, and the sound-quality can be quite high. The small file size makes MP3s a perfect choice for filling up a thumb drive or portable music player. MP3s also work great in most modern car stereos — including your RetroSound® RetroRadio™. 

FLAC is another fantastic format that is quickly gaining in popularity. You can archive all your music into FLAC format to keep the audio quality of the original file while saving space on your device. Not all devices can read FLAC files, but your RetroSound® RetroRadio™ can. The high audio quality and small file size makes FLAC a perfect choice for audiophiles. 

While putting a radio in the glove box might seem like a good idea to keep your car looking stock, there are several reasons why that is just a bad idea. Probably the most important reason is safety. Let's face it, it's just not safe to be leaning over the console, opening the glove box and trying to change channels while driving your classic. In order to safely operate the radio, you would have to first pull your car over to the side of the road, then lean over the passenger seat and open the glove box just to swap out your CD or change the dials – what an inconvenience! Besides that, you have to remove the actual glove box and build a mount for the radio – which may require drilling holes in your classic. And you'll still have to mount kick-panel speakers – which is already a dead give away that there's a modern sound system in your car. Plus if you have a CD player, you'll have to also find some place to store all those CDs so that they're out of site. And all the while, the factory radio will just sit there uselessly in the dash. 

A much better option is to replace the factory radio with a period-correct shafted push-button radio that looks like the original but has all the functions of a modern car stereo. RetroSound® offers period-correct shafted radios with modern features such as USB and Auxiliary inputs for playing MP3, WMA and FLAC files, built-in Bluetooth™ for hands-free calling and audio streaming, Apple iPod®/iPhone® compatibility, and is SiriusXM-Ready™. RetroSound® even offers a radio with a built-in DAB/DAB+ tuner for people outside North America. RetroSound® also offers replacement kick-panels, speakers, amplifiers, antennas, sound-deadening material, and even power window roll ups. And to top it off, they also offer officially-licensed static-cling screen protectors with printed vintage radio dials that affix to the radio display to make it look like an old analog unit. Now that's cool!

And if your dash has already been cut, no problem. RetroSound® offers a DIN repair kit which comes with a basket and faceplate to fit their shafted radio into a DIN opening.  

Going with a RetroSound® system allows you to keep the car looking stock, but gives all the modern features you would expect from a modern radio – plus you can control it all from the dashboard like you should. No more clutter, and no more hassle with trying to access a hidden radio. So don't cut that dash, and don't put your radio in the glove box. 

In a nutshell, DAB+ is the improved version of the initial DAB signal that was initiated as a European research project in the 1980s.  In the same way that analog television signal was overtaken, radio frequencies are being improved upon with new digital formats.  This improvement began with the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation and has evolved into today’s DAB+ format which utilizes an AAC+ codec that improves sound quality, offers more listening choices, and on average can operate with a weaker signal – meaning less static.  The US approved the use of HD radio in 2002, a similar format, which has been utilized and marketed across the industry as a supplement to traditional AM/FM tuners.

Though HD and DAB+ utilize similar signals in their respective markets, DAB+ has been gaining more traction due to the European mandate that analog FM be phased out in favor of this new technology which will save costs and also help the development of the commercial DAB+ network. 

So what are some of the highlights of this new technology?  Well, as we mentioned above, the DAB+ signal offers a better sound quality over that of traditional FM frequencies – we could get into the specifics of these comparisons but in layman’s terms, it’s more robust.  In addition to this improvement, the digital signal also allows for more station options to be transmitted by way of the signal which provides listeners a greater variety of broadcasts to choose from.  The digital signal produced by DAB+ is also an improvement in that receivers can work off a much weaker signal which can also be reflected from the terrain – meaning that this system requires fewer towers to effectively cover a given network.  All in all, the DAB and DAB+ networks are meant to be a free, stable and more accessible improvement over the analog signals listeners have experienced for years. 

While currently Norway is the only country to have completely shut down it’s FM network the rest of Europe isn’t expected to be far behind.  Many listeners will need to purchase an adapter in order for their older radios to work with this new network, however many high end audio manufacturers have been building this technology into their radios for a few years now.  If you’re one of our international customers and you’re looking to upgrade to a DAB+ unit, reach out to us today – we currently offer two DAB+ models for export markets.

Note:  DAB+ is for export markets only and will not does not received a signal in the United States.