Besançon doesn’t announce itself. There are no billboards on the autoroute, no airport named for the city, no crush of tour buses idling outside a famous landmark. I visited Besançon only because it was where our barge trip would begin. Otherwise, I may have never gotten there, and that would have been a pity, because the city has much to offer, and it is both beautiful and historic.

We arrived by fast train from Paris — two and a half hours through countryside that grew quieter and greener the farther east we traveled, punctuated by cities such as Dijon and Dole. At the end of the TGV journey, we taxied from Besançon Viotte up to Hôtel Le Sauvage, perched high above the city on the hill near the Citadelle. The hotel occupies what was once a convent of Poor Clares and later a 19th-century mansion — those layers of history still legible in its stone walls and quiet corridors. Its setting felt removed from the bustle below, with narrow streets, old stone walls and a quiet, elevated calm that made Besançon seem to unfold beneath us rather than around us.

Walking the streets after checking in, Marucia and I found the city eerily quiet. This was a university town, yet at 9 p.m. we encountered very few people. After Paris, Besançon felt subdued, almost sleepy. But I had been here before (for a barge trip in 2023) and knew better than to judge it too quickly. By day the city came to life, and by the following evening it had found its rhythm.

Besançon is tucked into a tight oxbow bend of the Doubs River, as if it has been waiting there, unhurried, for a very long time. Which, as it turns out, it has — and Hôtel Le Sauvage feels like a place that has been waiting just as long. It sits at the foot of the Citadelle in Besançon’s historic district, just an easy walk from Vauban’s fortress, with views over a wooded park and, beyond it, the medieval ramparts and the Doubs Valley. Vauban himself, according to local lore, once stayed at the old Sauvage inn that preceded the current hotel. Whether that is history or marketing, it sets the right tone.

We had two days before boarding the Danielle, CroisiEurope’s 22-passenger hotel barge, and Besançon is the right city for two unhurried days. Our group scattered across the city in different directions, which is exactly as it should be. Marucia and our friend Anne headed into the city center and spent time at the Musée du Temps, housed in the nearby Palais Granvelle — a fitting choice in a city that was once the watchmaking capital of France, and one the museum chronicles beautifully. Meanwhile, Tim and I followed the Doubs downstream along the ramparts and the riverside park making our way to the Citadelle, where we climbed up through Vauban’s 17th-century fortress for the views. From the top, the looping river is one of the finest panoramas in eastern France.

Besançon is not widely known outside France, which is partly what makes it so appealing. It has a university, which gives it energy. It has centuries of watchmaking heritage, which gives it a certain precision and pride. And it has a lovely old town, with the Grande Rue forming a pedestrian spine through a grid of merchants’ mansions and quiet squares.

The setting is both defensive and beautiful. The Citadelle, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, earned its place. And then there is the Doubs itself. The river loops around the city in a near-perfect horseshoe, and walking its banks — whether through the park or along the ramparts — is the best way to understand why people have been living here since Roman times. Back then the city was known as Vesontio, a strategically placed settlement nearly encircled by the Doubs, important enough to draw the notice of Julius Caesar and substantial enough to leave behind monuments that still shape the city today.

The Porte Noire, built in the second century as a triumphal arch, still stands not apart from the city but within it, folded into its streets and stone. Roman history here does not feel remote. It feels built in.

Along the Promenade de l’Helvétie, on the banks of the Doubs, a bronze statue commemorates a man most river cruisers have never heard of: Claude-François-Dorothée, Marquis de Jouffroy d’Abbans. Besançon’s tourism office describes the work as a patinated bronze by Pascal Coupot, installed on the Battant Bridge in direct confrontation with passersby. Jouffroy d’Abbans is closely associated with some of the earliest steamboat experiments in France. Local Doubs tourism sources place his first attempts at steam navigation in the Baume-les-Dames area between 1776 and 1778, while Britannica notes unsuccessful trials on the Doubs in 1778 and his later success on the Saône near Lyon in 1783 with the Pyroscaphe — which it calls the first really successful steamboat. Besançon honors one of the earliest pioneers of steam navigation, and he is a fitting figure to encounter before beginning a journey by barge.

See my story about d’Abbans: Where River Cruising Began: A ‘Fire Boat’ On The Saône

At 5 p.m., we board the Danielle. The barge is moored at the quay: 21 guests, Marucia and me, six crew, and a week through the Doubs Valley and Burgundy ahead of us. Tomorrow, Besançon will recedes as we push west toward Ranchot, Dole, Saint-Jean-de-Losne and eventually Dijon. But I carry the city with me: the stone walls of Le Sauvage, the looping river, the forgotten inventor along his promenade. I came to Besançon because a barge was waiting. I left glad that it was.

Learn more about upcoming trips: 2026 Alsace | 2027 Paris in the Middle: One Week Or Two, Plus Reims At The End

The line currently operates 31 ships, with three new vessels already set to debut in 2027 on the Rhine, Danube and Mekong. In Europe, AmaWaterways had previously confirmed eight new ships and is now adding seven more, including one in Portugal.

Much of the growth will take place outside of Europe, with more than 60 percent of future capacity expected in regions like Africa and Asia. That includes additional ships on the Nile and Mekong, as well as further expansion on the Chobe River.

Several new ships have already been outlined as part of the rollout. AmaNubia will debut on the Nile in 2026, joining AmaDahlia and AmaLilia. In 2027, AmaRudi will become the line’s second double-width ship on the Danube, following AmaMagna, while AmaMaya will launch on the Mekong. AmaFiora is also set to debut on the Rhine that year. Additional ships planned for 2028 include AmaClara on the Rhône, AmaGaia on the Douro and AmaCleo on the Nile.

Alongside the fleet expansion, AmaWaterways continues to build on its onboard experience. Fares include accommodations, meals, wine and beer with lunch and dinner, daily guided excursions, Wi-Fi and the services of a Cruise Manager throughout the journey. Recent updates include an expanded wine program with more than 30 included selections, new Italian lunch offerings in The Chef’s Table and a new all-day dining concept called “Savor at The Lark.”

The line also continues to invest in its land programs, with pre- and post-cruise packages that include hotel stays, guided tours and transfers.

The launch was marked by an inaugural sailing aboard Trafalgar Verity in Amsterdam in April, where travel advisors, media and Trafalgar team members were invited onboard to experience the new product. The sailing included a naming ceremony, cultural programming, and a preview of the brand’s signature “Be My Guest” and MAKE TRAVEL MATTER experiences, including visits to a Dutch windmill and a hosted lunch in the village of Monnickendam.

The second ship, Trafalgar Reverie, began its inaugural Danube sailing shortly after, operating a Passau to Budapest itinerary with stops in Vienna and Bratislava, along with curated experiences such as a winery visit and hosted dinner.

Both ships carry up to 128 guests and are designed to deliver a more intimate, experience-focused approach to river cruising. On the Rhine, Trafalgar Verity sails between Basel and Amsterdam, calling in destinations such as Strasbourg, Cologne, and the Middle Rhine Gorge. On the Danube, Trafalgar Reverie explores Central Europe, including scenic cruising through the Danube Valley.

Pricing starts at $2,849 per person for the Rhine itinerary and $3,699 per person for the Danube.

Looking ahead, Trafalgar plans to expand its river cruise offerings, with a third ship, Trafalgar Harmonie, set to launch on the Seine in 2027.

While both offer a slower way to travel through Europe, the experience on a river cruise compared to a canal cruise can feel completely different, from the size of the ship to the pace of the day to the kinds of places you’ll visit.

So if you’re trying to decide between the two, here’s what you need to know.

River Cruise vs Canal Cruise: The Quick Answer

The biggest difference between a river cruise and a canal cruise comes down to size and pace.

River cruises operate on larger ships, usually carrying between 100 and 200 passengers, and travel along major waterways like the Danube, Rhine or Rhône. These itineraries often connect major cities and cultural hubs – think Budapest to Vienna, Amsterdam to Basel or Lyon to Avignon.

Canal cruises, often done on small barges, are much more intimate. You might be traveling with just a handful of other guests, often fewer than 20, moving slowly through narrow canals and small villages that larger ships simply can’t access. In France, that might mean drifting through Burgundy, Alsace or the Canal du Midi, stopping in places you likely wouldn’t visit otherwise.

In short, river cruises are about seeing more places, while canal cruises are about experiencing fewer places more deeply.

What Is a River Cruise Like?

River cruising is the more familiar option for most travelers.

Ships are designed to carry more guests, but still feel small compared to ocean cruises. Days tend to follow a rhythm – guided excursions in the morning, time on board or in port in the afternoon and dinner in the evening.

There’s structure, but also flexibility. You’ll usually have multiple excursion options, along with the ability to explore on your own.

A on a typical Danube itinerary, you might spend the morning exploring Vienna, the afternoon sailing through the Wachau Valley and the evening docked in a small town like Dürnstein. On the Rhine, it could be a walking tour in Cologne followed by an afternoon of scenic cruising past castles.

River ships move efficiently between destinations, often traveling dozens of miles overnight so you can wake up somewhere completely new the next day. That ability to cover distance is what makes river cruising feel so efficient – you’re seeing multiple regions in a single trip without constantly packing and unpacking.

What Is a Canal (Barge) Cruise Like?

Canal cruising is a completely different experience.

Instead of traveling on a ship with over 100 passengers, you might be on a barge with just a dozen or so people – sometimes even fewer.

The waterways themselves are narrower and quieter, often no more than a few dozen feet across, winding through countryside and villages that feel far removed from the main tourist routes. In regions like Burgundy or along the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, the journey is less about ticking off cities and more about experiencing the landscape itself.

The pace is unhurried. Barges move gradually along the canals, often slow enough that you can step off and walk or bike alongside them before rejoining at the next lock. On a canal cruise, you might travel just a few miles in an entire day – sometimes even less.

Onboard, the experience is intimate. Meals are shared, the lounge feels more like a living room than a public space and it doesn’t take long to get to know everyone you’re traveling with.

River Cruises vs Canal Cruises

Here’s how river cruises and canal cruises compare.

Ship Size

River cruises: Typically 100–200 passengers
Canal cruises: Often fewer than 20 guests

Pace

River cruises: Structured, with a steady schedule of excursions
Canal cruises: Slower, more relaxed, with more downtime

Where You Go

River cruises: A mix of major cities, smaller towns and well-known destinations
Canal cruises: Small villages, countryside and places larger ships can’t reach

Onboard Experience

River cruises: More amenities, multiple dining spaces, larger social groups
Canal cruises: Intimate, shared spaces, highly personalized service

Which One Is Right for You?

Both river cruising and canal cruising offer incredible ways to see Europe, but they appeal to different types of travelers.

A river cruise might be a better fit if you:

• want a structured itinerary with built-in excursions
• like having options throughout the day
• enjoy a more social onboard environment
• are new to cruising

A canal cruise might be a better fit if you:

• prefer a slower pace
• want a more intimate, small-group experience
• are interested in quieter destinations and countryside
• don’t mind a simpler onboard setup in exchange for a more personal experience

The Bottom Line

Both experiences offer something special in different ways.

River cruising is about balance – structure, variety and the ability to see a lot without overthinking it.

Canal cruising is about immersion – slowing down, traveling through places most people never see and being part of a much smaller, more personal experience.

The right choice comes down to how you want to travel and what kind of trip you’re looking to get out of it.

Before Paris could work its quiet charm, though, there was still the matter of getting there — and in this case, the journey was made more comfortable by an unexpected email from Air France.

I made a last-minute decision before departure that seemed entirely sensible at the time: I accepted Air France’s offer to upgrade from premium economy to business class for $700. I hesitated. Ten hours is a long flight, but $700 is still $700. In the end, at 6’5″, I thought: Why not? I’d like a flat bed. Now that it’s over, I’m still not entirely sure whether it was worth the money, but I can say this without hesitation: Air France’s business class experience is exceptional. The flight attendants were warm and professional, the food was precursor of what I would experience in France, and the seat was just about perfect for someone my size. Tall men often compare notes on these things, and one common complaint is that the footwell at the end of the bed can feel like trying to sleep with your feet stuffed into a mailbox. This one fit me just fine. At 6’7″, perhaps not. But for me, it worked.

I skipped the croissant on the plane. When the flight attendant offered it, I told her I was saving my morning croissant for Paris. She smiled and said that was a much better idea. She was right.

The landing was easy enough. Immigration not so much. Even with SkyPriority and the expedited lane, it still took us about an hour to get through.By the time we emerged, found our bags and made our way out, we were mostly just glad to be through it and on our way into the city. We caught an Uber for 37 euros to our hotel, Yuna Montmartre, and given that the ride took about an hour, it felt like a bargain.

We are staying in Montmartre, not far from Sacré-Cœur, and the neighborhood immediately felt like the right place to begin: busy enough to remind you that you’re in Paris, but still full of corners where life feels local. Yuna is an apartment-style hotel, and I like it well enough — a good location, a comfortable room, a kitchenette, a refrigerator, the sort of setup that would make a few days in a city easier had we been staying longer. My main complaint is the checkout time: 10 a.m., which strikes me as unreasonably early, and judging from others I spoke with this morning, I’m not alone in thinking so. Still, for the location and the room itself, I would stay there again but because of the checkout time, I’ll give it a pass from now on.

Yesterday was mostly about shaking off the journey. We walked, which is one of the great remedies for jet lag and one of the best introductions to Paris anyway. We made our way up toward Sacré-Cœur, took in the life of the streets around Montmartre, and later wandered down toward the Moulin Rouge. We had been there before, so there was no need to turn it into an event. We simply walked by, paused, looked and let Paris do what it does best: Offer one scene after another without asking whether you were looking for them.

Montmartre can feel theatrical in places, but it also still has corners that suggest the village it once was. A pale pink building with mint-green shutters. A produce shop glowing red beneath its awning. An old blue enamel street sign. A fenced vineyard improbably climbing a hillside in the 18th arrondissement. The district still knows how to surprise you when you slow down enough to notice.

At Vrai Paris in Montmartre, café tables spill onto the sidewalk — a reminder that in Paris, much of the city’s life is lived in public. © 2026 Ralph Grizzle

On Rue Saint-Vincent, one of Montmartre’s quieter pleasures appears: the neighborhood vineyard, enclosed behind a fence but unmistakably alive in spring. © Ralph Grizzle 2026

At one point, Marucia wanted to buy a book, and we stepped into a small bookstore, the kind of place that still feels like a discovery rather than a retail concept. It was cluttered with books, not arranged in any order I could immediately recognize, the sort of shop where browsing feels less like shopping than like gently entering someone else’s mind.

The bespectacled owner engaged Marucia in French. Later, Marucia told me the woman seemed lonely. She had apparently said that she spoke English all day and was relieved to speak French. I picked up a French edition of Voltaire’s Candide and remarked that I had read it at university. The owner smiled in acknowledgment. It was one of those brief, unplanned exchanges that does as much as any monument to make you feel present in a city rather than merely visiting it.

Candide is, among other things, a book about movement through the world, disillusionment, observation and the gap between ideas and reality. That is not a bad undertone for a travel piece, especially one that values lived experience over postcard fantasy.

We also bought Metro tickets, which always feels like a small but important threshold in any city: The moment when you stop being newly arrived and begin to imagine yourself moving about with purpose.

Some of Montmartre’s best-known façades turned up as we walked the neighborhood — Le Consulat, Au Lapin Agile, and other familiar corners that have been photographed for decades. But what stayed with me most was not their fame so much as their setting: children playing in the street, ivy climbing a wall, pedestrians drifting past with no apparent urgency and that particular Parisian ability to make even an ordinary corner seem faintly composed.

Le Consulat may be one of Montmartre’s best-known corners, but it still earns a pause. © 2026 Ralph Grizzle

Au Lapin Agile remains one of Montmartre’s enduring landmarks, a reminder of the neighborhood’s bohemian past. © 2026 Ralph Grizzle

Dinner last night was at All Good Things, and it was exactly what we needed — very good, restorative and well-timed. We happened to arrive during happy hour. I had a beer, Marucia had a glass of wine, and the meal did what a first dinner in Paris ought to do: It steadied us, revived us and made the city feel welcoming rather than overwhelming. Afterward, we returned to the hotel and managed to stay awake until 9 p.m., which felt like a small triumph. We then slept until 9 this morning, another victory, though somewhat undermined by that looming 10 a.m. checkout.

That early checkout reminded me that even in Paris practicalities intrude. Still, the first day had done what it needed to do. It had eased us into the city rather than asking too much of us. We were no longer in transit. We were here.

Today, we move to Les Tournelles, where we’ll settle in for the rest of our Paris stay before taking the train to Besançon on Tuesday. So far, Paris has been exactly what we hoped for: not a grand production, not yet, but a gentle reentry into Europe — croissants deferred until arrival, long walks through Montmartre, a bookstore conversation, a good first meal and the pleasure of being here with several more days still ahead.

One of the pleasures of arriving in France in spring is seeing the season on display — white asparagus, artichokes, citrus and the kind of produce shops that make even an errand feel inviting. © 2026 Ralph Grizzle

There’s no shortage of river cruises in Europe right now – if anything, there are too many to sort through. And a lot of them follow the same basic formula, which is why it can be hard to tell what’s actually worth booking.

Instead of trying to cover everything, I’m pulling a few that stand out right now – the ones I’m actively recommending, the ones that feel a little different, or the ones that are just hitting at the right price point.

This is something I’ll update regularly, because what’s “best” in river cruising is everchanging. Pricing and availability shift, and certain itineraries just have travel windows that make more sense than others.

This month, these are the five itineraries I’d focus in on – depending on what you’re looking for.

Best River Cruise for First Timers

AmaWaterways – Melodies of the Danube

If you’re new to river cruising, this is one of the easiest places to start and one I recommend all the time.

AmaWaterways continues to be one of my go-to lines because they do a really good job of appealing to a wide range of travelers. The excursion lineup is a big part of that. You’ll typically see a mix of options each day, from more active choices like biking or hiking to standard city tours and things like winery visits so you’re not locked into one pace the entire trip.

Onboard, everything just feels easy. Food is something past guests consistently highlight and Ama has leaned into that even more recently. The Chef’s Table is still a standout, a multi-course tasting experience that feels more elevated than the main dining room, and newer additions like their Italian-focused lunch concept add variety throughout the week. They’ve also made a point to accommodate different dietary needs without making it feel limiting with a dedicated healthy choices menu and specialty sailings like their celiac cruises.

The itinerary is another reason this works so well for first-timers. You’re getting Budapest and Vienna along with smaller stops in the Wachau Valley so it feels like a good mix of cities and scenic cruising without being overwhelming.

Why I keep recommending it:
It’s balanced, it’s reliable and it delivers the kind of experience most people are expecting when they book their first river cruise.

Example sailing:
September 19, 2026 | 7 nights (Budapest to Vilshofen)

• French Balcony: $6,348
• Fixed Window: $4,849

Best River Cruise for Something Different

Uniworld – Capital Cities of the Danube

Most Danube river cruises follow the same pattern. Budapest, Vienna, maybe Passau.

And there’s nothing wrong with that. In fact, it’s exactly what I recommend for most first-time cruisers like the itinerary above.

But for those looking for something different, this is where the Danube starts to feel a little different.

Instead of starting in Germany or Austria, this itinerary begins in Belgrade and works its way north. You’re still getting the big-name cities like Budapest, Bratislava and Vienna, but you’re also spending time in places like Novi Sad and the Ilok region, which most standard Danube cruises skip entirely.

As you move through this part of the river, the culture shifts, the food changes and the overall experience feels more local and less predictable than the typical Upper Danube route.

Why it stands out right now:
There’s been a lot of interest lately in going beyond the “classic” Danube. This is a really approachable way to do that without giving up the major highlights that make the river so popular.

It’s especially appealing for people who have already done the Danube once and want something new, but it also works for first-timers who want a slightly more unique take on the route.

Example sailing:
November 1, 2026 | 7 nights (Belgrade to Vienna)

• French Balcony: $5,899
• Fixed Window: $4,599

Best River Cruise for Food & Wine

Riverside – South of France Safari with Châteauneuf-du-Pape

If food and wine are a big part of why you travel, this is one of the more interesting itineraries out there right now.

The Rhône already has a strong identity when it comes to cuisine and wine, and I can’t think of a better company to sail it with than Riverside.

You’ll notice the effort from the culinary team right away. Fresh honeycomb at breakfast, shaved truffle on flatbreads at lunch and plenty of unexpected combinations that somehow just work.

Onboard, the experience feels more considered than what you’ll find on most river cruises. There’s a clear focus on quality and detail.

That carries over into the itinerary itself. Experiences in places like Avignon and Châteauneuf-du-Pape feel like a continuation of what’s happening onboard. You’re tasting wines in the regions they come from and eating food that reflects where you are.

The itinerary brings together Lyon, Avignon and Arles along with smaller stops like Viviers and Tain-l’Hermitage, so you’re getting both the major cities and the regional depth that make the Rhône stand out.

Why I keep recommending it:
It’s one of the few itineraries where the food and wine feel like a central part of the experience. And you really can’t go wrong with Riverside.

Example sailing:
August 9, 2026 | 11 days (Lyon to Avignon)

• From $6,618 per person

Best River Cruise for Budget Concious Travelers

CroisiEurope – Venetian Treasures & Milan and Lake Como

If you want to ball out in Italy without spending a fortune, this is a really fun way to do it.

CroisiEurope isn’t trying to compete with the more all-inclusive lines, and that’s part of why the pricing works. You’re not paying for multiple restaurants, endless excursion choices or a schedule full of onboard activities you probably won’t go to anyway.

This itinerary also feels different from your typical river cruise. Instead of moving quickly between major cities, you’re based in Venice and exploring the lagoon, with stops in places like Murano, Burano and Chioggia. It’s a slower pace and gives you more time to actually enjoy where you are.

The added time in Milan and Lake Como helps round it out, so it feels like more of a full Italy trip rather than just a cruise.

Onboard, it’s simple, but it works. Meals and drinks are included and everything is easy to navigate without a lot of structure.

Why I keep recommending it:
It’s one of the easiest ways to do Italy on a river cruise without the price getting out of hand. The itinerary is also very unique, with only a couple of lines that even offer something like this, and the price point isn’t a huge barrier. For anyone looking for something different without breaking the bank, this is definitely something to try.

Example sailing:
November 15, 2026 | 7 days (Venice to Milan & Lake Como)

• From $2,182 per person

Best for Excursions

Avalon Waterways – Active & Discovery in Holland & Belgium

Avalon’s Active & Discovery sailings are built around having real choices each day.

You’re not just choosing between two versions of a walking tour. One day you might be biking through the city, the next you’re at an oyster farm tasting what’s coming straight out of the water, or in Ghent creating your own piece of street art instead of just walking past it. In Brussels, you can literally make your own chocolate instead of just buying it.

Having that range of excursions makes the whole trip feel more flexible.

The route works well for this too. Holland and Belgium are easy to get around, flat enough for biking and full of smaller cities that are perfect for this kind of hands-on stuff.

Why I keep recommending it:
I love Active & Discovery sailings. Learning about history and architecture is great, but the ability to actually get hands-on takes it to another level. Trying new things gets people out of their shell a bit more, and doing so in a guided setting makes it feel a lot less intimidating.

Example sailing:
Avalon Active & Discovery | September 3, 2026 | 7 nights (Amsterdam roundtrip)

• Panorama Suite: $6,729

The ceremony took place along the Rhine and was attended by more than 1,200 travel advisors. Events were hosted across three AmaWaterways ships – AmaSofia, AmaPrima and AmaVenita – creating a shared setting for the christening.

Sarah Little, who served as the ship’s godmother, led the official ceremony. The evening concluded with a drone light show over the river.

AmaSofia accommodates up to 154 guests across 76 staterooms. Suites range up to 350 square feet, and the ship retains the line’s signature features, including twin balconies and The Chef’s Table.

The ship began sailing on the Rhine earlier this season, operating itineraries including Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps.

In June, AmaSofia will reposition to the Danube, with its first sailing scheduled for June 7. It will then operate a range of Danube itineraries, including Romantic Danube, Melodies of the Danube and Christmas Markets on the Danube, primarily between Budapest and Vilshofen.

A Different Kind of River Cruise

This is not a “greatest hits” itinerary.

You’re not sailing past castles or docking in major European capitals. Instead, this journey along the Magdalena River focuses on smaller towns and communities, many of which haven’t seen river cruise tourism in decades.

The route runs between Cartagena and Barranquilla, with stops in places like Mompox, Magangué and Calamar. These are destinations that feel largely untouched by mass tourism. That’s what makes this itinerary stand out. It’s a chance to experience a region that still feels relatively undiscovered in the context of river cruising.

Day-by-Day Highlights Along the Magdalena River

The journey begins in Barranquilla with an exclusive Carnaval celebration, an energetic and colorful introduction that immediately pulls you into the culture.

From there, the focus shifts into smaller riverside communities. In Sabanagrande, a guided village tour offers a closer look at daily life along the Magdalena River, providing a more grounded and local perspective.

In Magangué, the emphasis moves toward the landscape. One guest described the nature excursion here as a highlight, noting that parts of the river felt almost otherworldly. The day concludes with an evening jazz performance.

Mompox is one of the stops that really stands out, largely because of the time spent there. Over two days, guests have the chance to get familiar with the city through a walking tour, a tuk-tuk ride and a visit to a filigree workshop where traditional techniques are still used. Cultural elements like cumbia music and local traditions are also woven throughout.

The itinerary continues with scenic cruising before reaching Calamar, where a tour through town and a visit to Palenque, the first “free town” in the Americas, introduce an important historical dimension to the journey.

You end in Cartagena, with time spent exploring the walled city, San Felipe Castle and Getsemaní.

What makes this itinerary stand out is the variety. It moves between high-energy cultural moments, quieter community experiences, time on the river and historically significant sites. Plus, the colors and scenery look so beautiful.

The Ship Still Looks Like Ama

The Ship Still Feels Like Ama

Even though this is a completely different itinerary, the ship, AmaMagdalena, still feels very much like Ama. It’s small with a well-designed interior that reflects the destination in which it is sailing. There’s a sun deck, a pool and wellness offerings like yoga, along with a range of stateroom categories depending on how you like to travel.

I Didn’t Know I Wanted To Cruise Colombia, Now I Can’t Stop Thinking About It

If you’ve spent any time around river cruising, you know how rare it is to see something new. Not just a slight variation on an existing route, but an itinerary covering a completely different region and experience.

And this didn’t just happen overnight. Ama had to build this itinerary from the ground up. That meant working with local communities and governments to develop infrastructure, create landing points, design excursion boats and train local teams. Even the ship itself was built in Colombia.

I didn’t expect Colombia to be next on my list, but now that I know more about this itinerary, it’s one I can’t wait to explore.

Editor’s note: This article was last updated March 29, 2026. The government shutdown situation is evolving rapidly, and airport conditions may change. We recommend checking your departure airport’s website and TSA’s official channels before you travel.

If you’re heading out on a river cruise this spring or returning from one, you need to know what’s happening at U.S. airports right now — and plan accordingly.

A partial federal government shutdown that began in mid-February has left the Department of Homeland Security without full funding, and the ripple effects are being felt at security checkpoints from Houston to New Orleans to Atlanta.

For river cruise travelers flying out of or returning to the U.S., that means your airport experience needs some extra thought.

Here’s what you need to know.

The Situation On The Ground

Hundreds of TSA workers have resigned over unpaid wages, while others have taken unscheduled leave — the result has been long lines and delays at airports amid staffing shortfalls.

The numbers are sobering. Houston Hobby Airport has urged passengers to arrive four to five hours ahead of their flight. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta and Louis Armstrong New Orleans International have reported hours-long average backups, with New Orleans advising travelers to arrive at least three hours early.

There may be some relief on the way. A new executive order directs the Department of Homeland Security to ensure TSA employees receive the compensation and benefits they missed during the shutdown by reallocating available funds tied to TSA operations.

The goal is to stabilize staffing levels and reduce disruptions, though it may take time for conditions at airports to fully return to normal.

Departing The U.S.: Get TSA PreCheck If You Don’t Have It

Enroll in TSA PreCheck and do it now, not the week before you leave. If you have Global Entry, you may already be enrolled in TSA Precheck.

TSA PreCheck helps you move through security more quickly at participating airports. While the PreCheck lines might still be long, they are significantly shorter than general security lines. Plus, the screening process doesn’t require you to remove your shoes or belts. PreCheck is available at more than 200 airports and with over 90 participating airlines. It typically costs up to $77 for five years — a bargain in any travel environment, and essential in this one.

You can start the enrollment process online and schedule your in-person appointment at the TSA PreCheck enrollment page. Allow a few weeks for processing, so don’t wait until the week before your cruise departure. One encouraging note: anecdotal reports suggest that TSA PreCheck applications and renewals are operating normally during the shutdown, with some travelers receiving eligibility confirmation within hours of applying.

There was brief confusion in late February when DHS announced it would suspend PreCheck lanes, but DHS reversed course after discussions with the White House and TSA, and PreCheck remains operational with no change for the traveling public.

That said, even if you’re enrolled in TSA PreCheck, it’s still smart to arrive early and check travel alerts for your upcoming travel.

If you’re not enrolled in PreCheck and can’t get it before your flight, budget more time at the airport. Depending on your departure city, that could mean arriving up to four hours before your scheduled departure.

Understanding CLEAR

Some travelers have CLEAR memberships but don’t fully understand what the service actually does — and what it doesn’t do. The distinction matters especially now.

CLEAR is a biometric identification platform that uses fingerprints and iris scans to identify travelers. Those with a CLEAR+ membership usually do not have to show their IDs during security screening. That’s the key word: identification. CLEAR handles the identity verification step — bypassing the queue where you’d normally hand your ID and boarding pass to a TSA agent. It does not bypass the physical screening conveyor belt.

A CLEAR+ membership costs $209 per year. But here’s the good news: you may already be covered. Several credit cards offer full reimbursement for a CLEAR+ membership. Check your credit cards before paying out of pocket — you may already have this benefit sitting unused.

You can enroll or check your membership status at clearme.com.

Returning To The U.S.: Global Entry Is Back — For Now

River cruisers flying home from European gateways will be relieved to know that Global Entry has been restored. The program was halted in late February but restarted on March 11, with DHS saying it was able to resume service as the department “continually evaluates measures it can take” amid the funding lapse. 

Global Entry grants expedited entry back into the U.S. from other countries, with shorter wait times through customs and no requirement to fill out paperwork. It costs $120 for five years and enrollment includes TSA PreCheck — making it the better value of the two programs for frequent international travelers. If you already have Global Entry, you do not need to enroll separately in TSA PreCheck. Your Known Traveler Number covers both programs.

You can apply at the Global Entry enrollment page.

Renewing Global Entry is easier than many travelers expect. Many renewals are approved without an in-person interview — CBP may re-approve you based on your updated application and records.

Global Entry’s status could change again. Given the ongoing uncertainty, CLEAR and Mobile Passport are still running at participating airports and can save meaningful time where available — worth having as a backup.

The Bottom Line

Though an executive order was recently signed aimed to solve the issue, TSA expects to screen about 2.8 million passengers a day in March and April — an all-time high. That combination of reduced staffing and surging demand is a recipe for exactly the kind of delays that can turn an otherwise wonderful river cruise trip into a frustrating bookend.

A little preparation goes a long way. Enroll in TSA PreCheck, understand what CLEAR does and doesn’t do, give yourself extra airport time and keep an eye on conditions at your departure city. Your river cruise deserves a stress-free send-off — and a smooth homecoming.

Practical tips for river cruise travelers

• Enroll in TSA PreCheck now. The process requires an online application plus an in-person appointment. Visit https://ttp.cbp.dhs.gov to get started. Processing can take a few weeks, so act well ahead of your departure.
• Consider upgrading to Global Entry. For the extra $35 over PreCheck, you get expedited customs re-entry — invaluable when you’re landing after a long transatlantic flight from your river cruise. Apply at https://ttp.cbp.dhs.gov.
• Check your credit cards for CLEAR coverage. Before paying the $209 annual fee out of pocket, check whether any card in your wallet already reimburses it.
• Arrive earlier than you think you need to. Regardless of your PreCheck or CLEAR status, add buffer time. If your instinct is two hours, make it three.
• Check your airport’s social media the morning of travel. Airports have been posting real-time wait time updates on social media and their websites. Louis Armstrong, Houston Hobby and Hartsfield-Jackson have been especially communicative.
• Download the Mobile Passport Control app. It’s free, works at major U.S. international airports and can speed up the passport control process even without Global Entry.
• Build connection time into your itinerary. If you’re connecting through a major hub on your way home from a river cruise, this is not the time for a tight 60-minute layover. Ask your travel advisor or airline about longer connection options.
• Talk to your travel advisor. If you booked your river cruise through a travel agent, reach out to see if they have any airport-specific guidance or air deviation options that might route you through less-congested airports.

Already Enrolled In TSA Precheck? Here’s How To Check.

Not sure if you already have TSA PreCheck? Check your Known Traveler Number (KTN) first. Log into your frequent flyer account — United, Delta, American or whichever airline you fly most — and look under your profile’s travel or security settings. Your KTN should be stored there if you added it at enrollment. You can also log in directly at https://tsaenrollmentbyidemia.tsa.dhs.gov/ktn-lookup.

River Cruise Advisor was quoted in The New York Times this week in a story about preparing for your first river cruise.

It’s always fun to see river cruising getting attention in mainstream travel coverage. The article looks at what first-time river cruisers should know before booking, from choosing the right river to understanding how river cruising actually works compared with ocean cruises.

Ralph was quoted recommending the Danube as one of the best rivers for first-time cruisers, largely because itineraries include marquee cities like Vienna and Budapest along with smaller towns that really show off what makes river cruising special.

For anyone new to river cruising, that combination is hard to beat.

Speaking of first-time river cruises, one of the questions we hear a lot is whether river cruising works well for solo travelers.

So this week, we’re looking at which river cruise lines are best for solo travelers, including which companies offer lower single supplements or cabins designed specifically for solo guests. See The Best River Cruise Lines For Solo Travelers.

We’re also exploring something that comes up more often than you might expect: how easy it is to dine privately on a river cruise. While river cruising has traditionally leaned communal, some lines offer more flexibility than others, including room service options and better access to tables for two. When You’d Rather Dine Alone: River Cruise Lines That Give You That Option

If you’d like to read the New York Times story that started the week – I’m attempting to include a gift link so everyone can read it without the paywall. It didn’t work for Ralph when I tested it with him, so if it sends you to a paywall… blame the Times, not me.

Read the article here.