Time needed: 30 minutes

1. Assemble Sides

   

2. Attach Seat and Back

   

1. Assemble Legs

   

2. Install Supports

   

3. Attach Aprons to Legs

   

4. Prepare Supports

   

5. Attach Supports

   

6. Attach Top

   

1. Assemble Legs

   

2. Cut Top of Legs

   

3. Install Feet

   

4. Attach Seat

   

5. Attach Back

   

1. Assemble the Base

   
   
   

2. Assemble the Top

   
   
   

3. Attach Base to Top

   
   
   

4. Install Slide Out Shelf

   
   
   

5. Cutting Hole for Power Strip

   
   This is a good time to add a cut out for your flush mounted power strip if you would like. This should be cut to fit.
   
   
   
   Don’t forget to drill a hole in the back for your power cord!
   
   

6. Applying a Finish

   
   This is the point where you need to go ahead and paint the base of the cabinet. Also note that you will need to paint the outside edge banding of the slide out shown in the next step and the drawer front in the last step.
   
   

7. Install Slide Out

   
   
   

8. Assemble Drawer Box

   
   
   

9. Install Drawer Box

   
   
   

10. Install Drawer Front and Slide Out Knob

    
    
    
    
    If you want to add the faux fluting like we did make sure to check out the full YouTube video for details on a simple way to do it with a table saw.
    
    
    

1. Identify Sagging Joists

   
   Using a level or straight edge, you can press this against the bottom of the joists to figure out which joists are sagging. Also take note of the joist dimensions and purchase the same.
   
   

2. Jacking the Floor Joist

   
   If your joist has a really bad sag, you may need to jack it up to get the new joist in place. To do so, place a bottle jack under the low spot on the joist and cut a 4×4 to fit. When using the 4×4 to jack up your joist make sure that it is perfectly plumb. With a lot of weight on the jack, any sideways force could cause the jack to kick out.
   
   

3. Sistering a New Joist

   
   Start by see if there is any crown on your new joist. If so you will want this facing up.
   
   
   
   Remove any blocking that may be in your way and place your new joist such that both ends are bearing on a beam or foundation.
   
   
   
   Persuade the new joist into place with a mini sledge hammer.
   
   
   
   Once you have it in place. Clamp any gaps in the two joists and nail together with 3 framing nails vertically every 16 inches.
   
   

4. Install Blocking

   
   Cut solid blocking to fit snuggly between the joists in the center of the span and nail in place with framing nails.
   
   

A step by step guide to building a Landscape Timber Retaining Wall.

1. Layout and Excavation

   
   Start by laying out exactly where you would like your retaining wall to go and using marking paint to map out the area. Then you will need to cut out the hillside. This can be done with a shovel for low walls or for larger projects, a machine may be required (such as a tractor, mini skid steer, or mini excavator). When excavating for a wall 3-4 feet or taller, not only do you need to cut out a level spot where the wall will go, but you will need to cut back into the hillside as far back as your wall is tall. For example, if you have a 4ft wall you will need to cut 4ft out behind the wall.
   
   
   

2. Preparing the Footing

   
   The retaining wall you build will only be as good as the footing that it sits on. After excavation, lay out the wall location again on your new grade. Then dig out a tench for your footing. The footing should be 16in wide, minimum, and 6-8in of compacted crushed gravel. The depth of the trench should also include the height of one full row of timbers which will be buried below the finished grade. So if your timbers are 5-1/2″, your footing trench should be 11-1/2 to 13-1/2″ deep.
   
   With the correct depth for your footing, compact 6-8in of 3/4″ crushed gravel making sure that the finished footing is level (side to side and front to back). Filter fabric can also be installed below the footing to help prevent and settling if dealing with any bad subsoil.
   
   

3. Setting the First Course

   
   The first course of timbers is the most important course in the entire wall. This is because there is really no adjustment of the rows once you get going. The first course needs to be perfectly in place and level. Using a long level, set your timbers in place, making minor adjustments to achieve level side to side. Check adjacent timbers with your level to make sure those are set in the same level plane and there are no low spots or high spots. When setting the first course, the timbers will need to be pinned to the ground with a minimum of 3ft long 1/2″ rebar. These should be spaced about 2ft apart. Start by drilling 1/2″ holes at these locations and drive the rebar through the timbers until flush with the top. I found that using a hammer drill and ground rod driver attachment makes this process a lot easier and safer.
   
   Take your time to make sure this first course is perfect, it will make the rest of the project go a lot smoother.
   
   

4. Installing a Drain Line

   
   All retaining walls need to have a way for water to escape, or else the water will saturate the soil and create an excess surcharge on your wall which could result in failure. Also, excess moisture on the landscape timbers will accelerate decay. To prevent this you will need to place a 4 inch perforated drain line behind the first course of timbers that leads out to daylight for water to drain freely. Non-woven filter fabric should also be installed below the pipe and up the back of the hillside. This will prevent any silt and soil from working its way into your drainage stone behind the wall and clogging up that area, rendering it useless.
   
   Woven filter fabric should not be used as it can create hydrostatic pressure by not allowing enough water to pass through, essentially creating a dam.
   
   

5. Fastening the Timbers

   
   For a long time, most people have attach timbers using 10in spikes that had to be driven in with a sledge hammer every 2ft. Well there is now a much easier way to do it. Simpson StrongTie makes a 10in Timber Screw that is exterior grade and requires no pre-drilling. Plus, with the wafer head design you get a ton of strength and a flush top that won’t get in the way of the next course.
   
   
   When building a timber wall, make sure to stagger the seams and any corners that you may require. Also, you will need to step back every course by 1/4″. I installed mine so that every joint was in the middle of the timber above and below it.
   
   
   
   

6. Drainable Backfill

   
   Backfill behind the wall with washed (or “clean”) 3/4″ gravel and make sure to encase that drainage stone with your filter fabric. This will allow proper drainage without the fines from regular gravel or soil clogging up the drainage field.
   
   

7. Cutting and Sealing Timbers

   
   In some cases you may need to cut a timber. I found that these easies way to do this was by marking on two sides with a speed square and cutting with a small chainsaw.
   
   
   
   Any cut ends will need to get sealed with a below ground preservative. For this I painted on a generous amount of CopperCoat Wood Preservative.
   
   

8. Installing Deadmen Reinforcements

   
   For walls over 2-3 feet in height you will create an unstable wedge of soil behind the wall adding back pressure to your wall. To reinforce the wall you will need to install deadmen. Deadmen are a T-shaped tiebacks that will secure the wall to the stable soil behind it. The deadmen is perpendicular to the wall and should be as long as your wall is tall (i.e. 4ft wall = 4ft deadman). Deadmen have a 2ft timber secured at the end, parallel to the wall. I would recommend securing deadmen every 3rd row (one vertical foot between them) and spacing them 8ft apart (horizontally). Doing this every 3rd row will allow you to stagger the deadmen, creating a more even reinforcement. The first row will be buried and pinned so this can be omitted.
   
   

9. Cover Drain Field and Dress with Topsoil

   
   Once the wall is in place and your drainage stone is backfilled within 6-12″ from the top of the wall, the drainage stone can be covered with filter fabric to prevent any silt from leaching into the drainage field.
   
   
   
   The last 6-12″ can be backfilled with good topsoil to allow for planting grass or small plants. Avoid planting trees or large shrubs on top of taller retaining walls as the added dynamic pressure from large growing roots and swaying trees could be detrimental to your wall.
   
   

A step by step guide to building a concrete block retaining wall.

1. Selecting your Concrete Block

   
   When selecting concrete blocks for your retaining wall you will want to make sure that they have some type of locking feature. This could be a lip on the back of the block, a tongue and groove connection, or a locking pin configuration. This will make sure that the block do not slide forward from the back pressure created by the hillside you are trying to retain.
   
   Check your local codes to see if you need permits or engineering for your particular wall. In some cases, walls over 4 feet tall could require engineering.
   

2. Layout and Excavation

   
   Start by laying out exactly where you would like your retaining wall to go and using marking paint to map out the area. Then you will need to cut out the hillside. This can be done with a shovel for low walls or for larger projects, a machine may be required (such as a tractor, mini skid steer, or mini excavator). When excavating for a wall 3-4 feet or taller, not only do you need to cut out a level spot where the wall will go, but you will need to cut back into the hillside as far back as your wall is tall. For example, if you have a 4ft wall you will need to cut 4ft out behind the wall.
   
   
   

3. Preparing the Footing

   
   The retaining wall you build will only be as good as the footing that it sits on. After excavation, lay out the wall location again on your new grade. Then dig out a tench for your footing. The footing should be 16in wide (or more depending on you block depth) and 6-8in of compacted crushed gravel. The depth of the trench should also include the height of one full row of blocks which will be buried below the finished grade. So if your blocks are 6in tall, your footing trench should be 12-14″ deep.
   
   With the correct depth for your footing, compact 6-8in of 3/4″ crushed gravel making sure that the finished footing is level (side to side and front to back). Filter fabric can also be installed below the footing to help prevent and settling.
   
   
   

4. Setting the First Course

   
   The first course of block is the most important course in the entire wall. This is because there is really no adjustment of the rows once you get going. The first course needs to be perfectly in place and level. Using a long level and a dead blow hammer, set your blocks in place, making minor adjustments to achieve level side to side. Check adjacent blocks with your level to make sure those are set in the same level plane and there are no low spots or high spots. When setting the first course, the blocks may be tipped ever so slightly back. They should be near level front to back but if anything the wall should be leaning back into the hillside ever so slightly.
   
   Take your time to make sure this first course is perfect, it will make the rest of the project go a lot smoother.
   
   
   

5. Installing a Drain Line

   
   All retaining walls need to have a way for water to escape, or else the water will saturate the soil and create an excess surcharge on your wall which could result in failure. To prevent this you will need to place a 4 inch perforated drain line behind the first course of block that leads out to daylight for water to drain freely. Non-woven filter fabric should also be installed below the pipe and up the back of the hillside. This will prevent any silt and soil from working its way into your drainage stone behind the wall and clogging up that area, rendering it useless.
   
   Woven filter fabric should not be used as it can create hydrostatic pressure by not allowing enough water to pass through, essentially creating a dam.
   
   
   

6. Stacking Blocks and Backfill

   
   When stacking the blocks, make sure to stagger the seams and assure there is no pebbles or material between the blocks that would create an uneven placement.
   
   Backfill behind the wall and in between any gaps in the blocks every course or two with washed (or “clean”) 3/4″ gravel and make sure to encase that drainage stone with your filter fabric. This will allow proper drainage without the fines from regular gravel or soil clogging up the drainage field.
   
   
   

7. Cutting Blocks

   
   In some cases you may need to cut a block. This can be done with a masonry chisel and small sledge hammer or a masonry diamond cutting blade on an angle grinder or concrete saw. Take proper precautions to avoid concrete dust as it is harmful.
   

8. Installing Geogrid when Necessary

   
   For walls over 3-4 feet in height, or walls that will be supporting poor soil, you will need to install geogrid which will reinforce the wall by stabilizing the ground behind it. Geogrid is installed between layers of block (minimum of 16″ between geogrid layers) and laid back into the gravel backfill as far back as the wall is tall. For example, if you have a 6ft wall you will need to lay 6ft of geogrid behind the wall. Some geogrid is uniaxial, which means that the strength is only in one direction, while others are biaxial, meaning the strength of the material is in both directions. Take note of this and roll out your geogrid so that the strength is going back into the hillside.
   
   
   
   There is a thing called angle of repose, which is essentially the angle that the soil wants to settle to if the wall was not present. This creates back pressure on the wall, and if not stabilized, can result in failure. By installing geogrid, the unstable wedge of soil behind the wall is stabilized and the angle of repose is moved back into the hillside, relieving your wall of that added pressure.
   
   
   

9. Adhering the Top Course and Caps

   
   Since the top row of stone or caps wont have the weight of any blocks above it to prevent it from moving, it will require an adhesive to assure the blocks or caps stay where you want them. For this we used DAP All Purpose Adhesive & Filler which is perfect for this because it is a 2 part epoxy that creates a strong bond between the two surfaces. Plus, it’s weatherproof immediately and can even be used to recreate any chipped or broken areas.
   
   

10. Cover Drain Field and Dress with Topsoil

    
    Once the wall is in place and your drainage stone is backfilled within 6-12″ from the top of the wall, the drainage stone can be covered with filter fabric and the last 6-12″ can be backfilled with good topsoil to allow for planting grass or small plants.
    
    Avoid planting trees or large shrubs on top of taller retaining walls as the added dynamic pressure from large growing roots and swaying trees could be detrimental to your wall.
    

1. Determine the Correct Voltage and Capacity for your Golf Cart

   
   If you don’t know the voltage that your golf cart requires, you can easily figure this out by looking at the battery pack. If you have six 8-volt batteries then your cart is a 48V, while six 6-volt batteries would give mean you have a 36V cart. You will need this info when purchasing your new lithium batteries.
   
   When it comes to capacity (for far you can drive on a charge) this will depend on your needs. If you want the same range, a 2 battery kit should work just fine for you. If you need more range than that you can simply add batteries to your cart (up to six) to extend the range.
   
   Note that the lead acid batteries are linked together in “series” which means that the voltage is added together to get to the required amount (this limits the capacity). While the lithium batteries each output the required voltage so they can be wired together in “parallel” to increase the capacity (more batteries = more range).
   

2. Remove the Lead Acid Batteries

   
   To remove the old batteries you will need to start by removing any support/hold down brackets and disconnect the battery cables using a wrench. Take note of the positive and negative cables that connect the batteries to the speed controller. Then with the battery cables disconnected you can lift the old batteries out. These batteries are very heavy an this can be made easier using a battery puller.
   
   Clean the battery tray and inspect the cables that connect to the batteries for any corrosion. Clean if necessary.
   
   

3. Place and Secure Lithium Batteries

   
   Since the Eagle batteries from Big Battery have the same footprint you can place them in the battery tray with no modifications. Locate the batteries such that the weight is evenly distributed in the cart and the cable connections are accessible. Secure the lithium batteries in place using the supplied L-brackets and screws.
   
   

4. Install Parallel Busbar

   
   The parallel busbar is how you will connect your batteries together and to the main controller. This is also where you can connect your pigtail for your charger to connect, battery level meter and step down converter, which is what reduces the voltage from 48V to 12V for lighting and other accessories.
   
   Install the busbar with screws or bolts in a location such that the cables from the controller will reach. All the positives go on one side and the negatives on the other. Tighten down the nuts with a wrench for a secure connections.
   
   

5. Cable Management and Checks

   
   Make sure to tidy up your battery compartment, routing wires, securing with zip ties and connecting to batteries. Also check to make sure each of the batteries have the breaker (opposite side from plug) flipped to the on position.
   
   You may also opt to install the charger on board like I did. If so simply mount the charger to the tray. Connect to the charger to the pigtail and if you want to mount a waterproof outlet (I used this one) in place of the old charging port, that can be removed and an outdoor outlet installed in it’s place. When it’s time to charge you can plug it in with any extension cord.
   
   Once everthing is secure, put the seat back in place and cruise away.
   
   

1. Excavating

   
   This is honestly the hardest part. Removing about 8-10 inches of soil below the desired height of the patio is required for the prep work. This is based on 4-6 inch base coat, 1 inch top coat and 2-3/4 inch paver. We tried doing it the old fashion way but could tell from the start that it was going to take forever. Luckily, my father-in-law has a skid steer that made quick work of it. For most cases, I would recommend renting a mini skid steer from Home Depot to make it easy on yourself.
   
   

2. Base Coat

   
   For the base coat we are going to put down 4-6 inches of 3/4 inch clean gravel. This does not have the fines and dust in it so it will allow water to drain well.
   
   To start, I put about 1-2 inches of gravel down, really just flatten the area. I then compacted that into the existing soil using a compactor that I rented from Home Depot.
   
   
   
   After that, I laid down commercial grade landscape fabric to help lock the layers in place an minimize settling. Followed by the rest of the base coat which gets compacted as well. The final grade should be pitched 1/8 inch per foot and at a height of (1 inch + thickness of paver) from the finished heigh.
   
   

3. Top Coat

   
   The top coat is 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch clean chip stone. For many years people have used sand for the top coat but the problem is that sand will not only wash away into the gravel below but it will hold moisture. The reason for a clean chip stone is that you still get that tight pack below the pavers but with the open grade base, you will be able to allow water to flow through more easily.
   
   That being said, the top coat must be screeded and pitched properly (1/8 inch per foot or just make sure the edge of the bubble on the level is touching the line on the high side) so that your pavers will sit as they should. To do so, I laid 3/4 inch steel pipes and used a 6 foot level to get the grade that I wanted. At this point the top of the steel pipes needs to be at the level of the bottom of where you want your pavers to sit. Then you can begin to add the chip stone.
   
   
   
   Adding a little at a time and screeding it to the steel pipes with a long straight edge will make this process easy. Make sure to not walk on or disturb the chip stone after it is screeded. When you get to the end of your pipes, slide them down and do it again until you have completed the whole patio. Don’t worry, you can fill the troughs left by the pipes as you lay your pavers.
   
   

4. Laying the Pavers

   
   For main section of the patio I went with Unilock Brussels Block pavers in the color Limestone (random pattern “W”) and laid a perimeter of perpendicular 1/2 stones “soldier course” in the color dark charcoal. This process is a little time consuming but I enjoyed it and the crazy random pattern was worth it in the end. Using a rubber mallet, the pavers can be set into position if they are a little proud.
   
   I recommend having an extra hand. My wife was a hug help shuffling pavers around for me to lay.
   
   
   
   For the corners of the soldier course, I cut two pavers on a 45 and one small square using a wet saw with diamond blade. I thought this added a nice finished touch.
   
   

5. Cutting a Curve on a Paver Patio

   
   First you need to mark the curve that you want to cut. For me, it was a radius. So I figured out the length of the radius I needed and stuck a pin at the pivot point. Then, I used a string and pencil to mark the radius.
   
   To cut patio pavers you need a wet saw with a diamond blade. The water helps keep the blade from heating up and keeps the dust down. You can rent these types of saws however I did have a large angle grinder and was able to complete the process by keeping the cutting surface wet while I cut. Start by lightly scoring the curve, then make deeper passes and complete the cuts, if needed by removing the pavers and cutting all the way through.
   
   
   
   After cutting the radius I then followed up with my soldier course.
   
   

6. Paver Patio Edging

   
   For this I used the plastic paver edging and hammered it in place with 10 inch galvanized spikes. However, in my research I did see a lot of people talking about how they prefer concrete as a means of retaining the pavers vs the plastic edging, so I’ll leave that up to you to decide.
   
   

7. Backfill Around the Paver Patio

   
   Using some of the leftover top soil we were then able to backfill around the patio.
   
   

8. Filling Joints with Poly Sand

   
   To fill all the joints in a paver patio and lock it all together, we used G2 Polybind sand. This gets swept into all the joints and the excess is left on top.
   
   
   
   Then the sand gets vibrated into the joints with a compactor. Be sure to use a pad under your compactor so you don’t scratch your new pavers. We used a scrap piece of carpet.
   
   
   
   Then sweep off all the excess and wet the surface until its starts to repel the water.
   
   
   
   This stuff is pretty amazing. It really locks in place and you’ll never have to worry about it washing out like traditional play sand.
   
   

1. Drive the Post Bases

   
   For the post bases I am going to be using the Simpson StrongTie EZ-Spikes. These makes setting posts quick and easy versus digging holes and pouring concrete.
   
   To get the EZ-Spikes into the ground, I used a small piece of 4×4 and hammered them in with a small sledge hammer. Throughout the process of driving the spike you will want to check to make sure the spike is plumb, using a level, and aligned properly.
   
   

2. Installing the Posts

   
   I started by cutting two 4 foot long pressure treated 4x4s. After setting them into the post bases and making sure the tops were level, I then secured each post with four connector screws.
   
   

3. Framing the Side and Top

   
   To hide the 4×4 posts, I cut the composite decking to length, mitering the corner, and secured with composite deck screws, leaving a 1-1/2″ overhang on the front face.
   
   

4. Cladding the Privacy Wall

   
   To cover the wall I simply cut down all the composite deck pieces to size and secured them to the 4×4 posts with composite deck screws.
   
   

1. Post Layout

   
   For the post bases I am going to be using the Simpson StrongTie EZ-Spikes. These makes setting posts quick and easy versus digging holes and pouring concrete. I started by pressing the first and last spikes into the ground slightly to get an idea of where the fence was going to go.
   
   Then I ran a string between the two for alignment and spaced the other spikes out evenly. Spacing them less than 8 feet apart.
   
   

2. Driving the Post Base

   
   To get the EZ-Spikes into the ground, I used a small piece of 4×4 and hammered them in with a small sledge hammer.
   
   
   
   Throughout the process of driving the spike you will want to check to make sure the spike is plumb and aligned properly.
   
   

3. Installing the Posts

   
   I started by cutting two 4 foot long pressure treated 4x4s. I checked to make sure they were level at the top and then used a string to extend that line across to all the other posts that were inserted in the post bases.
   
   
   
   With the string to show where the tops should be cut. I then used a speed square to mark that line on the 4×4 posts.
   
   
   
   To cut a 4×4 with a standard circular saw you will need to mark both sides and cut twice as the blade is not long enough to do it in one pass.
   
   
   
   The post then get inserted into the base and secured with four connector screws.
   
   

4. Installing Horizontal Supports

   
   Start by measuring between the 4×4 posts, just above the EZ-Spikes. Then cut two pressure treated 2x4s at that length. Those 2x4s will get two pocket holes drilled in each end using the Kreg XL Pocket Hole Jig.
   
   
   
   Then install the lower 2×4 using 2-1/2″ Kreg XL pocket hole screws. These screws are outdoor rated and incredibly beefy and will make sure you get a good strong connection.
   
   
   
   Repeat the process for the top board and the remaining sections. Note, if you are building a fence on a slight slope, like I am, I would recommend leveling the bottom 2×4 with the lowest spot on the higher spike. For steeper inclines the entire sections should be higher as your incline increases.
   
   

5. Installing the Top Cap

   
   To dress up the top of the fence, I installed a 5/4 pressure treated deck board using 2 inch deck screws. These boards come in 16 foot lengths which will help tie multiple sections of the fence together and stiffen up the fence.
   
   

6. Applying Finish

   
   To protect the fence and to make it look nice, we opted to finish the treated wood with a solid color deck stain in the color black.
   
   

7. Vertical 2x2s

   
   To secure the welded wire fence to the side of the 4x4s we needed to install 2x2s between the upper and lower 2x4s. These were cut to length, stained, and installed with 2-1/2 inch deck screws.
   
   

8. Assembling the Gate

   
   The gate opening gets measured and a 2×4 frame is assembled for the gate that is about 1 inch narrower than the opening. The gate frame is assemble with the Kreg XL pocket hole jog and screws.
   
   
   
   After applying the finish I then installed the Simpson StrongTie Rigid Tie Connectors to each inside corner to assure the gate does not sage over time.
   
   
   
   On the inside of the frame I installed 2x2s, cut to length, with 2-1/2 inch deck screws. These will be used to fasten the welded wire fencing to.
   
   

9. Gate Installation

   
   Using a 3/4″ to 1″ spacer below the gate, I then installed the gate using self closing hinges and latch.
   
   

10. Installing Welded Wire Fencing

    
    The welded wire fencing then gets cut to size for each section and stapled to the inside of the fence. For this I used a narrow crown stapler and 1-1/2″ galvanized staples.
    
    

This set of DIY loft bed plans is designed for a full size mattress and a room with a 10ft ceiling. These plans are meant to serve as a guide or order of operations. A lot of the steps will need to be adapted to fit your space and style.

1. Exterior Wall Frame

   
   
   

2. Headboard Wall Frame

   
   

3. Door Wall Frame

   
   

4. Frame Assembly and Install

   
   

5. Bed Floor Install

   
   

6. Exterior Wall Install

   
   

7. Step Supports

   
   

8. Stair Wall Assembly

   
   

9. Stair Wall/Framing Install

   
   

10. Step Riser Install

    
    

11. Electrical

    
    Some cool features I wanted to add were can lights below, outlets in the nooks and a sconce above the bed. With the framing exposed I went ahead and roughed in the romex for all of this. Since I got lucky with an outlet under the stairs, I will be able to put a plug on the end of the romex and simply plug it all in before closing it up.
    
    

12. Siding

    
    
    For this we went with 1×8 vertical shiplap on the walls and ceiling below. This was definitely and added expense and this could be covered with drywall or 1/4″ plywood but we both agreed that this would give it that coastal look we were going for.
    
    
    
    When installing the siding I went ahead and cut out the holes for the sconce and can lights with a 4″ hole saw. This way I could install a round old work box for the sconce to be mounted too and the cans will simply snap in place.
    
    

13. Storage Nooks

    
    
    
    When building these units, I opted to leave out the shelves so that I could install those in oak plywood after painting.
    
    
    
    I also needed to cut out the spots for electrical outlets and install those boxes.
    
    

14. Installing Trim

    
    For the trim I used 1×3 pre-primed boards and some cove moulding where needed. Trim gets installed with a brad nailer and WeldWood Instant Wood Adhesive at any joints.
    
    

15. Prep, Prime and Paint

    
    Before painting we needed to prep the areas. To do so, we filled any screw holes and smoothed out any joints with DAP’s Premium Wood Filler before sanding down to a seamless finish.
    
    
    
    All of the joints get caulked in using DAP’s Extreme Stretch which will help resist any cracking as the bed flexes with people getting in and out.
    
    
    
    With all the prep done we could now move on to the primer, which needed to be applied to any bare plywood or MDO, before 2 final coats of scuff resistant white paint.
    
    

16. Railings and Step Treads

    
    
    
    For all of my joints I used WeldWood instant wood adhesive and 1-1/4″ pin nails.
    
    
    
    The longer vertical pieces of the railing get secured from the inside of the plywood with 1-1/4″ wood screws.
    
    
    
    For the hand rail on the stairs I decided to add a roundover on the top which gave it a nice look and feel.
    
    

17. Finishing Wood Railings and Shelves

    
    When it came to finish for the bare red oak railings, we decided to go with a wipe on poly. This allowed the natural wood to really pop as an accent to the white walls and trim. But before applying a finish I wanted to fill any visible pin holes with Plastic Wood-X. This will leave a natural wood finish and blend in nicely.
    
    
    
    The shelf in the storage unit is made from 3/4″ oak plywood and capped with an oak 1×2. Finish was applied prior to install with pocket screws.
    
    
    
    The shelves in the bookcase are made from 3/4″ oak plywood and capped with 1/2″x2 oak boards. All where pre-finished before install with pocket screws.
    
    
    
    To protect the paint from the wipe on poly, I taped off the areas adjacent to the rails before applying several coats of poly.
    
    
    
    The step treads get installed with construction adhesive and pin nails and followed up with clear Alex Plus caulk and white paint touch up.
    
    

18. Sunset Mural

    
    A last minute addition was this sunset mural. My wife came up with the idea and we found an inspirational photo on Pinterest to work from. I decided to get smooth lines we could use a flexible piece of trim to trace.
    
    
    
    After laying out the design we went to Home Depot and had some paint samples made up in different strengths to give it the gradient look.
    
    
    
    Below is an image that will show you the paint colors that we went with and the strengths I would suggest. I had to have several different versions mixed up to get the colors where I wanted but I think it turned out great!