Antylia is definitely one of the most interesting and ambitious new restaurants and concepts to open in Toronto in the last year. Husband-and-wife duo Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena bring an impressive culinary background to the restaurant, having worked in Mexico City, Los Angeles and Toronto. Shortly following our dining therem they recieved a Bib Gourmand by Michelin.

Antylia explores food from the diverse landscapes of the Americas, with flavours from both North and South America, but primarily Latin America and its diasporic cultures, while incorporating local Canadian ingredients. Mexico, Peru and Ecuador are among the strongest influences. The menu weaves together the traditions of the ancient Americas with modern techniques and flavours, while focusing on culture, geography, seasonality and sustainability.

The restaurant itself has one of the most unique decors I have seen in Toronto. An 18-person horseshoe-shaped chef’s counter anchors the room and, in my opinion, this is definitely the place to sit. There are also tables around the perimeter of the restaurant.

Colourful dried hydrangeas hang dramatically above the bar area. They are beautiful to look at, although I couldn’t help thinking they must be a nightmare to clean. The side wall is equally interesting, with colourful abstract patterns of inlaid wood. With the open kitchen and communal style of dining, the atmosphere is casual, fun and interactive.

You can order à la carte or opt for the $125 tasting menu, a progression of small bites featuring some of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Considering the price of many tasting menus today, I found this quite reasonable.

Corn plays an important role here. They grind their heirloom corn in-house using a traditional volcanic stone mill from Puebla, Mexico, reflecting the restaurant’s commitment to both technique and tradition. Sustainability is also an important part of their philosophy, with an effort made to reduce waste and make thoughtful use of ingredients.

There were several standout bites during our dinner. I loved the foie gras gorditas with wild blueberry mole, as well as the runner beans with pumpkin seed sauce. The excellent charred cauliflower with prairie mole was another highlight.

There was also an amazing half-moon-shaped bite that was crunchy and reminded me somewhat of a tamale, although it wasn’t actually a tamale. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch exactly what it was made from, but it was one of those memorable bites that stayed with me.

The King Cole duck breast with mole rojo was beautifully tender. The duck is miso and mole marinated, charcoal grilled and served with a rich mole rojo. It was excellent.

The beverage program follows the same philosophy as the food, incorporating ingredients and spirits such as mezcal, pisco and tequila, along with cava. The wine list travels through regions including Argentina, Chile, Spain and Tuscany, and there is also a good selection of spirit-free cocktails.

Dessert continued the experience. We enjoyed two different preparations of a cacao drink, but my favourite was the Tacos de Gloria. A small flour tortilla is filled with maple milk caramel, puffed wild rice and pine nuts, with a pecan maple mousse on the side for dipping. It was delicious and a fun way to finish the meal.

What makes Antylia particularly interesting is that dinner is not simply about eating. Throughout the meal, the chefs explain the culture, geography and traditions behind the dishes, as well as their preparation and how those traditions are adapted to the ingredients available here in Ontario.

Our dinner lasted about 2½ hours and never felt rushed. There was authentic hospitality, creativity and, most importantly, a passion that shone throughout the evening.

Antylia is open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.

Recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/21/2026

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue is one of those little hidden gems that I love discovering. Located at 657 Dupont Street, this relatively new addition to Toronto’s dining scene started as a pop up after Covid. Chef Andrew Golden, who won Best Young Chef and a Bib Gourman by Michelin just after our visit, together with his partner Kris Hansen, has taken that original concept and created something quite special, with a focus on authentic, Central Texas style barbecue and nostalgic comfort food.

The restaurant is housed in a former historic bank, and we were fortunate enough to get a tour of the building and the operation behind the scenes. The space has a definite Texas ambiance, with a simple industrial design, cool cowboy photographs and retro signs. It is casual and unpretentious, which is exactly what you want from a serious barbecue joint. There is also a nice little patio out back, weather permitting, close to where all the smoking action takes place.

And speaking of smokers, they took us outside to see not one, not two, but three of them. They use no gas or electricity for the cooking. The meats are all slowly cooked over wood burning smokers, and this is certainly not a nine to five operation. Even while you are sleeping, someone is there doing the prep and tending to the meats as they slowly cook.

The menu is all about barbecue, and we were treated like honoured guests. We tried the juicy smoked brisket with its beautiful smoky bark, ribs, turkey, chicken, sausage and pulled pork. The meats are given the time they need, allowing the smoke and quality of the meat to do the talking rather than relying on unnecessary embellishment.

We were also privileged to try several off menu dishes, and there were some real standouts. A ginormous 70 oz. Porterhouse steak arrived at the table, beautifully cooked and full of flavour. We also had an excellent fish crudo and some amazing hush puppies served in a tartar and Parmesan sauce. Quite frankly, all three deserve to become permanent fixtures on the menu.

The rest of the menu is filled with the kind of nostalgic comfort food that makes barbecue so much fun. The fried potatoes were amazing, and both the coleslaw and potato salad were excellent. I particularly enjoyed the Mexican style corn salad. I somehow missed the mac and cheese and charro beans, so those are already on my list for next time.

Then there is the baking.

Chef Golden’s mother, Doris, is the baker, and she is seriously talented. She could open her own bakery. Her cornbread was some of the best I have ever eaten. It was that good. And her banana pudding can easily hold its own against the famous version at Magnolia Bakery. We were also treated to an off menu sticky toffee pudding that was first rate.

What also stood out to me was the hospitality. From the moment we arrived, everyone was warm, friendly and genuinely welcoming. Behind the casual atmosphere is a very well run operation. It was also probably the cleanest barbecue restaurant I have ever seen, particularly impressive when you consider the amount of smoking, cooking and prep happening behind the scenes.

It is pretty impressive to see what this young team of twenty somethings has managed to create. There is a tremendous amount of work involved in doing barbecue properly, particularly when you are tending wood burning smokers for hours on end, and their commitment shows in the food.

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue is open Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. until 8 p.m. A liquor licence was currently in the works when we visited, check their website to see the latest updates. They also offer delivery, large orders and catering. You can even take some of the experience home with you, as they sell their meats as well as two delicious house barbecue sauces.

Golden Horseshoe may still be a little under the radar, but I have a feeling that won’t last for long. Chef Andrew Golden, Kris Hansen and their young team are doing a superb job of barbecue and have created a place that feels relaxed, genuine and very Toronto.

Definitely worth seeking out.

Recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/19/2026

I’ve been hearing good things about Danny’s Pizza Tavern, located at 611 College Street on a busy stretch of Toronto’s Little Italy.

Danny’s opened in 2022 and is the creation of Daniel “Danny” Barna and his wife, Anna Hopkins, along with partners Mark Kupfert and Daniel Suss. Interestingly, Barna is a journalist by trade and Hopkins is an actor, writer and director, and neither originally set out to become a restaurateur. Their idea was to create the kind of welcoming neighbourhood tavern that felt as though it had been around for decades, a place where you could come with the family, meet friends for drinks and pizza or even have a casual date night.

They certainly captured that feeling.

We visited on a beautiful day, and more people were dining outside on the sidewalk patio than inside. But you really need to step inside to appreciate the personality of Danny’s. The restaurant feels a little like walking into someone’s basement in the 1950s. There’s wood panelling, marble-topped tables, Tiffany-style lamps, quirky knick-knacks and walls plastered with family photographs, including pictures of the family dogs. Many of the photographs, artwork and objects actually came from Barna and Hopkins’ own families and childhood homes. Add some old-school jazz and big band music and the whole room has a wonderfully nostalgic, lived-in feel.

I asked our server if Danny’s was considered Italian and she said no. Looking at the menu, however, I would describe it as an Italian-American-influenced neighbourhood tavern serving classic American comfort food.

Chef Jonathan Pde, whose background includes Piano Piano, heads up the kitchen. The philosophy here isn’t about reinventing familiar dishes but rather doing them well, and the menu is designed for sharing.

The signature is their Chicago or Midwestern tavern-style pizza. These are not your typical thick Chicago pies. The crust is extremely thin and crisp, the toppings extend right to the edge and instead of wedges, the pizza is cut into lots of small squares. Apparently, when the owners first found the space, it already had a pizza oven, which helped inspire the direction of the restaurant.

The pizzas were surprisingly good. One pie can easily feed two to three hungry people, particularly if you’re sharing some other dishes.

We chose the white mushroom pizza with shiitake, king oyster and cremini mushrooms, mozzarella and lemon zest. It was delicious. Two dips came alongside, a garlicky cream sauce and hot honey, and I loved both of them on the pizza. There are several red and white pies to choose from, with the pepperoni being their bestseller and the clam pie becoming something of a house signature.

We started with an arugula salad with crispy chickpeas, pomegranate and candied pecans. Fresh and tasty, although I would have liked a few more of those candied pecans.

Another dish worth ordering is the vinegar chicken, inspired by the well-known vinegar chicken at Bernie’s in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. We ordered a half portion. The chicken is brined and roasted and served with confit potatoes, pepperoncini and shallots, then finished with a delicious sweet-and-sour sherry vinegar sauce. It was a great combination of flavours and one of my favourite dishes of the meal.

There’s also a full bar, which is very much part of the Danny’s concept, with tried-and-true cocktails, beer and an interesting selection of wines from Ontario and Italy to as far away as New Zealand.

Dessert keeps things simple with three choices when we visited: an ice cream sundae, key lime and chocolate-dipped ice cream, and a blondie cake with cream and candied pecans.

Danny’s Pizza Tavern isn’t trying to be fancy or overly serious. That’s exactly its charm. It’s fun, unfussy and nostalgic, with good, generous, shareable food and a room that feels instantly familiar. It’s the kind of neighbourhood restaurant that works for almost everyone, whether you’re taking the family, meeting friends for pizza and cocktails or enjoying a casual date night.

A fun addition to Little Italy and a perfect neighbourhood eatery.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/27/2026

The story of Marchal begins in 1755, when Jean Marchal, a French servant, and Maria Coppy, the daughter of the royal chef, opened a restaurant in Copenhagen. Their passion for cooking and hospitality laid the foundation for what would eventually become Hotel d’Angleterre, the grand dame of Copenhagen hotels.

Named in their honour, Marchal is one of Copenhagen’s most elegant and classic dining rooms. Located on the main floor of the hotel, with large windows overlooking Kongens Nytorv, it is where you come for a refined and timeless style of fine dining rooted in French technique and complemented by elegant Nordic influences.

Marchal opened in 2013 and received its first Michelin star the following year, an accolade it has retained ever since. Today, the kitchen is led by Executive Head Chef Alexander Baert, who brings a contemporary perspective to the restaurant’s French and Nordic identity.

The dining room is understated yet sophisticated, with crisp white tablecloths, polished silver, fresh floral arrangements and an impressive floor to ceiling wine display. The classic black and white palette is softened by grey carpeting, purple velvet chairs and curtains, and generous touches of marble.

Even the tableware makes a statement. Gleaming white and gold Bernardaud china is paired with striking plates embossed with a matte black circular detail. A small table was provided for my handbag, of course, and the background music was set at exactly the right level. Every detail felt considered.

The cuisine is French at heart, elevated by precision, modern presentation and seasonal Nordic ingredients. This was one of the few restaurants in Copenhagen where we were able to enjoy a beautifully prepared piece of beef. It was perfectly cooked, although it could have arrived a little warmer. We also had turbot, a classic Danish choice, served in a luxurious champagne beurre blanc. The menu offered plenty of indulgent seafood, caviar and beautifully executed desserts.

I appreciated having the option to order à la carte, although a tasting menu was also available. There were several elegant tableside presentations, and we were especially impressed when Chef Baert came into the dining room to serve one of our courses himself.

The wine program is exceptional, with an extensive cellar emphasizing French producers alongside prestigious international labels. The cocktail program was equally polished.

Marchal is ideal for those seeking a luxurious and traditional Michelin star experience rather than the theatrical innovation of Alchemist or the highly experimental approach associated with Noma. It delivers accomplished cooking, gracious service and an elegant setting steeped in Copenhagen history.

Recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/09/2026

Restaurant Schønnemann is one of Copenhagen’s oldest and most celebrated lunch restaurants. Founded in 1877, this historic institution at Hauser Plads has long been associated with the traditional Danish lunch, particularly smørrebrød accompanied by beer and snaps. In its early days, farmers would leave their horses in the square after selling their goods and stop inside for freshly brewed beer, a glass of snaps and something to eat.

Descending the four steps into the restaurant feels like entering another era. The old world dining room has dark wood panelling, deep green walls, traditional upholstered chairs and tables dressed with crisp white linens. It is atmospheric and unmistakably historic, preserving the character of a traditional Copenhagen lunch restaurant.

The extensive menu focuses on classic smørrebrød, herring, smoked fish, shellfish, plaice, potatoes, tartlets, meat dishes and other traditional specialties. Its drinks selection is equally impressive, with 24 different beers and more than 140 varieties of snaps. On paper, it sounded like exactly the kind of iconic Copenhagen experience we were looking forward to.

Unfortunately, our meal did not come close to living up to the restaurant’s reputation. In fact, Schønnemann was our least favourite meal in Copenhagen.

The shrimp pyramid looked generous when it arrived, but the shrimp were dry and almost completely tasteless. Served on white bread, the entire dish felt heavy and surprisingly uninspired. We also ordered the chicken and crispy root vegetable pie, which was equally disappointing. Neither dish had the freshness, balance or deliciousness we experienced at the other restaurants serving smørrebrød throughout Copenhagen.

The service did little to improve the experience. It lacked the warmth and polish we had encountered elsewhere in the city, and I did not enjoy the atmosphere or the crowd. Although the room was busy and filled with people clearly enjoying this longstanding Copenhagen tradition, it simply did not appeal to us.

I realize that Schønnemann is a beloved institution and that many people consider it an essential Copenhagen dining experience. However, a restaurant should ultimately be judged by the food and hospitality it delivers today, not simply by its history or reputation.

After enjoying much better smørrebrød elsewhere in Copenhagen, the difference was striking. In hindsight, I sincerely wish we had chosen Selma or Aamanns instead. For us, booking Schønnemann was a major dining mistake and one of the greatest disappointments of our trip.

Not recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/06/2026

BOBE was one of the unexpected delights of our recent trip to Copenhagen. Located at Gråbrødretorv 11, it is tucked away on one of the prettiest and most atmospheric squares in Copenhagen’s historic centre. The cobblestone square is lined with colourful old buildings, cafés and restaurants, and on the beautiful summer day we visited, it seemed as though everyone was sitting outside enjoying lunch. We happily joined them.

The restaurant itself occupies a historic yellow townhouse dating back to 1731, and much of the characterof the original building has been preserved. Inside, you’ll find wide plank wooden floors, beautiful oldwoodwork and an open fireplace, giving the restaurant a warmth and character that is quite different from Copenhagen’s more minimalist contemporary dining rooms. There is also a wine bar tucked away in the cellar.

BOBE is the creation of acclaimed Danish chef, Bo Bech, one of the better known names on Copenhagen’s restaurant scene. Bech was previously behind the highly regarded Geist, which occupied a beautiful space on Kongens Nytorv for many years. With BOBE, he has created something that feels sophisticated yet much more relaxed, somewhere between a neighbourhood bistro and a destination restaurant.

The restaurant has also received recognition from the Michelin Guide, earning a Bib Gourmand for offering particularly good food at a more moderate price point, quite an accomplishment in a city known for its ambitious and often very expensive restaurants.

We came for lunch, when the focus is smørrebrød, Denmark’s famous open faced sandwiches. I was expecting the usual classics, but BOBE’s menu turned out to be far more interesting and creative. There was a huge selection, and so many sounded good that it was difficult to decide what to order.

The peeled shrimp came with a mild harissa dressing, adding just enough spice and personality without overwhelming the delicate shrimp. Gravlax was paired with mustard seeds, saffron and bronze fennel, another clever combination that took something familiar and made it feel completely different. I particularly enjoyed the chicken salad with black trumpet mushrooms and crispy parsnip, with its wonderful contrast of creamy, earthy and crunchy flavours and textures.

And then there was the bread. The dark pumpernickel bread underneath the toppings was absolutely delicious. With smørrebrød the bread is every bit as important as what goes on top, and this was dense, deeply flavourful and the perfect base for the generous toppings.

The drinks menu was equally well considered. There was a selection of beer and snaps, naturally appropriate for a traditional Danish lunch, along with nonalcoholic beverages and a good choice of wines available both by the glass and bottle.

Dessert could be either cheeses or something sweet, and we chose the buttermilk ice cream with strawberries. It was an absolute delight, light, refreshing and not overly sweet, exactly what I wanted after our lunch.

What I enjoyed most about BOBE was the way it managed to respect Danish tradition without feeling bound by it. The smørrebrød were recognizable as the classics Copenhagen is famous for, but Bo Bech and his kitchen gave them their own personality through interesting ingredients, unexpected flavour combinations, and beautiful presentation.

And then there was the setting. Sitting outside on Gråbrødretorv on a gorgeous Copenhagen afternoon, surrounded by colourful historic buildings and the buzz of people enjoying lunch, made the experience even more memorable.

Copenhagen has no shortage of celebrated restaurants, and we certainly ate at some extraordinary ones during our trip, but BOBE was one of those places that caught me completely by surprise. I went expecting a good lunch and left thinking about how thoroughly enjoyable the entire experience had been.
Sometimes it is the restaurants you least expect that turn out to be among the most delightful discoveries of a trip. BOBE was definitely one of those for me.

Recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/06/2026

If you are looking for one of Copenhagen’s most exciting dining experiences, Koan should be near the top of your list. It is unlike any other restaurant in the city, blending Korean heritage with Danish ingredients and New Nordic techniques in a way that feels deeply personal.

Chef and owner Kristian Baumann was born in South Korea and adopted by a Danish family when he was an infant. After working in some of Denmark’s finest kitchens, he travelled extensively throughout South Korea to reconnect with his heritage. Koan is the culmination of that journey, beautifully expressing both his Korean roots and his Danish upbringing.

Koan is located in an unexpected setting, inside a beautifully restored waterfront warehouse at Langeliniekaj. Just ten weeks after opening in 2023, it was awarded two Michelin stars, an extraordinary achievement.

We were greeted outside and ushered into a beautiful space that feels minimalist, intimate and incredibly serene. Warm blond wood, high ceilings and sliding rice paper screens create an elegant atmosphere, while gauzy curtains soften the natural light and views of the harbour. With only 23 seats, we felt very privileged to be there. Even the ceramics have been thoughtfully selected and handcrafted by a Korean ceramicist.

The service was highly professional yet relaxed. We were fortunate to sit directly across from the open kitchen, where we could watch the chefs prepare their elegant and meticulous creations. The entire evening was perfectly choreographed, and with each table reserved only once per night, the experience never felt hurried.

The 17 course tasting menu focuses on seasonal Danish seafood, vegetables and locally sourced produce, interpreted through Korean flavours, techniques and fermentation. Each dish was artistic, technically brilliant and deeply flavourful. I loved our first bite of delicate shrimp. Other highlights included the lobster and noodle dish, the beautiful langoustine and an elaborate rice presentation.

The wine program is exceptional, combining classic European producers with more adventurous selections chosen to complement the Korean inspired flavours. Koan also offers a creative non-alcoholic pairing that receives every bit as much thought and attention as the wines.

Koan is not simply another Michelin starred tasting menu. It is a destination for dedicated food lovers and an experience that manages to feel engaging, memorable and genuinely unique. Every course was beautifully executed without ever becoming gimmicky. This was a deeply personal and artistic dinner, cooked with precision, soul and passion.

Koan is open Tuesday through Friday.

Highly recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/04/2026

After spending five days in Copenhagen and dining at nine different restaurants, one stood out above all the rest: Jordnær.

Located in the quiet northern suburb of Gentofte, approximately 25 minutes from Copenhagen’s city centre, Jordnær occupies an unassuming hotel in an upscale residential neighbourhood. From this modest setting, it has become one of Europe’s great culinary destinations, earning three Michelin stars through its combination of exceptional ingredients, meticulous technique and deeply genuine hospitality.

The restaurant is the creation of husband and wife team Eric Vildgaard and Tina Kragh Vildgaard. Tina oversees the dining room with remarkable warmth and precision, creating a level of hospitality that is every bit as memorable as the food. She greeted us personally at the door and continued to check on us throughout the evening. She was gracious, engaging and so genuinely welcoming that we immediately felt at home.

Chef Eric Vildgaard discovered cooking later in life and went on to train in some of Denmark’s finest kitchens. He ultimately transformed his talent, determination and passion into one of the world’s most acclaimed restaurants.

The dining room reflects understated Scandinavian elegance. Intimate and serene, it is decorated in a soft palette of whites and greys, with crisp white linen tablecloths, solid dark wood floors and comfortable chairs spaced generously enough to create a sense of privacy and calm. Delicate floral arrangements, low lighting and individual lamps suspended above the tables bring warmth to the restrained design.

There is no theatrical decor competing for your attention. Everything is refined, sophisticated and beautifully understated, allowing the extraordinary food to take centre stage. And believe me, it certainly did.

The cuisine is contemporary Nordic with subtle Japanese influences, built around pristine seafood sourced from Denmark, Norway and beyond. Each dish celebrates the natural flavours of exceptional ingredients, including langoustines, scallops, caviar, lobster and seasonal vegetables.

The snacks were technically executed perfectly and absolutely delicious, setting the stage beautifully for what was to come.

I found the food to be flawless, elegant and beautifully balanced. Chef Vildgaard works closely with local producers, fishermen and farmers, and the extraordinary quality of the ingredients was evident in every bite.

The name “Jordnær” translates to “down to earth,” but the food is anything but ordinary. It represents gastronomy at its absolute highest level.

I do not usually gush like this, but I would be hard pressed to choose a favourite dish. Everything was exceptional, from the lobster with yuzu and sansho pepper to the king crab, the delicate rosette waffle with fjord shrimp and the scallops with gooseberries and rose.

The lobster and langoustine were cooked to tender perfection, while the accompanying sauces were delicate, nuanced and intensely flavourful. Even the Shizuoka Crown melon with milk ice cream and lavender has remained in my thoughts. It was superb, as was the ethereal pavlova that followed.

Wine is an equally important part of the Jordnær experience. The cellar is considered one of Scandinavia’s finest, with an extraordinary collection of Champagne, Burgundy, German Riesling and wines from the Loire Valley. Alongside legendary producers, the list features smaller artisan growers committed to sustainable farming.

Guests may choose from thoughtful wine pairings, a dedicated Champagne pairing or a carefully selected range of individual glasses.

My evening at Jordnær was truly extraordinary. The exemplary food, remarkable wines and deeply genuine hospitality came together to create not only my most memorable meal in Copenhagen, but one of the most memorable dining experiences I have had anywhere.

Highly recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
8/31/2026

Geranium was the first restaurant in Denmark to earn three Michelin stars, achieving this distinction in 2016. I had tried to book it twice in the past, but COVID had other plans. I finally had the opportunity to experience it during my summer trip to Copenhagen in 2026.

It was not easy for our taxi driver to find. Geranium is perched on the eighth floor of Parken Stadium, home of Denmark’s national football team. It is certainly an unusual and unconventional location for one of the world’s most celebrated restaurants. Yet the moment you step inside, the stadium seems to disappear.

The dining room is serene and beautiful, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the treetops of Fælledparken. The understated Scandinavian decor features blond woods, soft textures and calming neutral tones. With only 13 tables and a small lounge, dining here feels like a special privilege.

The restaurant occupies a much larger space than the dining room suggests, with a laboratory, test kitchen, bakery and several preparation areas. Guests are taken through these spaces during an extensive behind the scenes tour, which provides a fascinating look at the precision and organization required to produce a meal of this calibre.

Geranium was founded in 2007 by Chef Rasmus Kofoed and his longtime business partner, Søren Ledet. It relocated to its current home in 2010 and steadily climbed the ranks of the culinary world.

Kofoed is one of the most accomplished chefs on the planet. He won bronze, silver and finally gold at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition, becoming the first chef to achieve all three distinctions. Geranium received its third Michelin star in 2016 and was named the World’s Best Restaurant by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2022.

To say that I highly anticipated visiting Geranium would be an understatement. It had been on my bucket list for years, which made my ultimate reaction all the more disappointing.

After experiencing the multicourse tasting menu, I simply was not that impressed.

Perhaps Geranium has lost some of its edge, or perhaps the world of fine dining has evolved and there are now restaurants offering more original, exciting and emotionally engaging experiences. There was nothing technically wrong with the meal. Everything was beautifully prepared and impeccably executed. It simply did not excite me in the way I had expected.

Several years ago, Kofoed removed meat from the menu, believing that a lighter and more sustainable style of cooking better reflected both his personal direction and his vision for fine dining. This focus on seafood and vegetables was something we encountered at many of the restaurants we visited in Copenhagen. In fact, I can hardly remember being served meat anywhere during the trip.

At Geranium, the menu celebrates pristine seafood and shellfish, biodynamic vegetables, wild herbs and foraged ingredients. The flavours were clean, delicate and pure, but I did not find them particularly bold or memorable. The dishes were pretty, but many lacked the creativity and artistry I had experienced at several of Copenhagen’s other gastronomic restaurants.

Our summer menu began with five appetizers. The first was beautifully presented, with oysters and razor clams served in an edible vessel resembling a razor clam shell. It was clever, delicious and one of my favourite bites of the evening.

I also enjoyed the creamy egg yolk with tarragon, liquid cheese and potatoes. The five opening bites were followed by six savoury servings and five desserts, all presented as part of a carefully choreographed performance.

Geranium’s wine cellar is among Scandinavia’s finest, and its nonalcoholic juice pairing is equally worthy of praise. Unfortunately, the service did not impress me as much as it did at several of the other restaurants we visited. Considering Geranium’s three Michelin stars, I expected a more intuitive level of attention. Our every need was not anticipated, although the staff still offered a relaxed warmth and gracious hospitality.

The crowd at Geranium was probably the dressiest of all the restaurants we visited, although only a handful of men wore jackets. Copenhagen is an extremely casual city, and I was shocked to see one couple arrive in the lounge wearing shorts and open sandals.

It is also an extraordinarily expensive dining destination. Many of our high-end tasting menu experiences approached $1,000 per person and would have cost considerably more if we had been serious wine drinkers. Dining at this level in Copenhagen is an extravagant experience intended for those who truly appreciate ambitious gastronomy.

Geranium had been on my bucket list for years, and I am glad I finally experienced it. However, I do not feel the need to return. It did not deliver the excitement, creativity or emotional connection that I found at several other restaurants, and it was certainly not one of the defining meals of my trip.

Still, the setting is beautiful, the craftsmanship is undeniable and the restaurant’s place in culinary history is well deserved. For those reasons, I will give it a recommended rating.

Recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/04/2026

I was fortunate enough to secure a reservation at Alchemist in Copenhagen. I did not know exactly what to expect, but from everything I had heard from those who had experienced it before me, I knew we were about to witness one of the world’s most extraordinary culinary and theatrical performances.

Chef Rasmus Munk has completely redefined fine dining through what he calls “holistic cuisine,” bringing together food, art, theatre, science, music and technology to tell a story. Located outside Copenhagen’s city centre in the industrial district of Refshaleøen, Alchemist seems almost hidden among a collection of warehouses. Behind its imposing entrance lies an enormous 22,000 square foot space spread across several levels.

The experience lasts approximately six hours and consists of as many as 50 “impressions” rather than traditional courses. There are approximately 115 staff members serving only 52 guests. When my husband heard how long the evening would be, his immediate response was, “Kill me now.” Being the good sport that he is, however, he agreed to come along.

We were dropped off in front of two enormous, ornate brass doors, which immediately suggested that we were about to enter another world. After waiting to be called inside, we were welcomed into the foyer with a drink before being ushered into a dimly lit and sophisticated lounge.

There, we enjoyed a glass of champagne to celebrate our anniversary, accompanied by a series of fabulous snacks. Each one was technically perfect, beautifully presented and delicious, creating a sense of excitement for everything that was still to come.

We were looked after by a wonderful server, Jogile Bulavaite, and concierge who remained with us throughout the evening. She carefully explained every impression and the meaning behind it, helping us understand that almost nothing at Alchemist is presented without a purpose. From the lounge, we could also look into the test kitchen and laboratory where our snacks were being prepared.

We then entered the extraordinary main dining room beneath Alchemist’s breathtaking dome. Throughout the evening, spectacular projections transformed the ceiling into deep oceans, abstract artistic landscapes and other mesmerizing scenes. Together with the music, lighting and constantly changing imagery, the dome created a completely immersive environment. It reminded me of being inside the Sphere in Las Vegas.

The majority of the impressions were served beneath the dome. Munk’s cuisine is among the most technically accomplished I have ever encountered, but the dishes are not designed solely for pleasure. They are also intended to provoke thought, emotion and conversation.

Themes such as sustainability, overfishing, climate change, food waste, animal welfare, child labour and modern technology are explored throughout the experience. Some presentations are playful, while others are surprising, shocking or even unsettling. Almost every impression carries a deeper message.

Not all of the impressions are edible, and some of those that are can be so realistic that eating them becomes a matter of mind over matter. “Bugs on a Windshield” and lamb brains served inside a replica of a human brain were certainly among those.

Expect impeccable seafood and shellfish, vegetables, unusual ingredients, fermentation, molecular gastronomy and remarkable technical precision. Every creation is visually arresting and often resembles a work of art, or even a part of the human body, rather than something you would normally expect to eat.

The restaurant prioritizes local and organic sourcing, avoids endangered seafood and works to minimize food waste. Even the staff wear muted shades of grey so that the food, projected images and overall experience remain the focus.

The beverage program is equally impressive. Guests may choose from extensive wine pairings featuring many of Europe’s greatest producers. Alchemist also has an exceptional cellar filled with rare wines, many of which can be seen on display in the lounge.

There are imaginative cocktails as well as some of the finest nonalcoholic drinks I have ever tasted, created with the same level of originality and attention to detail as the food.

Throughout the evening, we continued our journey through several other rooms, visited the main kitchen and eventually made our way to the restaurant’s upper level, where we enjoyed additional desserts. Each transition introduced something new and helped maintain the sense of anticipation throughout the six hour experience.

Reservations are among the most difficult to obtain in Europe and should be secured months in advance. Alchemist currently holds two Michelin stars and is ranked No. 5 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Alchemist is unlike anything I have ever experienced. Chef Rasmus Munk brings together art, storytelling and gastronomy while encouraging his guests to reflect on important social and environmental issues.

It is important to understand that you may not leave believing you have eaten the finest or most delicious food of your life. You will, however, probably leave feeling that you have experienced one of your most memorable meals. At Alchemist, the food is only one part of a much larger and far more ambitious production.

Despite the length of the evening, we never felt tired or experienced the dreaded food coma. Instead, we left feeling satisfied, captivated and inspired. Just ask my husband, who had been dreading the thought of spending six hours at dinner but became completely absorbed in the experience.

Alchemist is a one of a kind dining adventure that should be experienced at least once in a lifetime. It is highly creative, complex and provocative, filled with startling visuals and unforgettable moments that remain with you long after the evening has ended.

Just be warned that the prices are as stratospheric as the experience.

Highly recommended.

Happy dining,
Shanea
09/01/2026