what’s cookin’

Hello, earthlings. Your gurl has just barely touched down after a four-day extravaganza of music, kicking off with Soulwax performing at The Regency Ballroom last Thursday night (what a full-throttle show, they played like they stole it!), followed by three nonstop days and late nights dancing at Portola Festival inside the spaceship of my most-adored music and sound and dance experience in this lifetime, Despacio. (If you don’t want to read this, just skip ahead to the second photo of the disco ball.)

It was a gorgeous 20-hour infusion of much-needed joy (THANKS, I REALLY NEEDED THAT) and Dionysian release (I left it all on the dance floor) and disco ball stupefaction and re/connection with the most inspiring community of international dance party friends who know how to show up (and get down). I’m going to take a momentito to germinate the seedlings of my thoughts and feelings and impressions and stories into something tangible like actual words. (This was my recap from last year’s Portola, so you can see why it’s gonna take a minute.) And, your dancing queen needed to go to her appointment today for an injection in her knee—I knew 20K+ steps a day for four days would come calling. Hello, ma’am!

I loved meeting and dancing with some of you rad subscribers who told me you came because of my “rhapsodic” piece from last year. Awww. Strong work! Despuesio is a thing—and the Despacio Fan Club can help with the comedown (join the Discord and/or the r/Despacio reddit). This Despacio playlist from Portola 2025 is also tiding me over until the 2026 recordings and playlists come out because the songs will haunt you—all hail the TSOT/the spreadsheet of truth.

I started posting pics, videos, and stories on @tablehopper—including a cuuuute Despacio Fan Club Pre-Tola brunch at Side A—stand by for more disco ball moments and unbelievable dance floor postcards as soon as I send this thing! I’m so damn lucky and grateful for all the unrivaled joy and laughs and ass-shaking and cosmic downloads and connection and LOVE I just experienced. My heart. I’m soaring and feeling so much lighter. What a ride. (Get off the speakers!)

Thank you to everyone who pours their errrrrything into honoring and creating the world’s best dance floor, one that simultaneously pulls from the bins of everything I’ve ever deeply loved about dance and music and sound and party people, and yet massively transcends anything I have ever experienced before. I love you, I love you, I looovvvvvvvve!

In the meantime, I know some of you just barely finished the 8,200-word tome I wrote last week about tablehopper’s 20th anniversary and the reopening of 15 Romolo in October. (Ha-ha, sorry not sorry.) And I have a bunch of wonderful pics coming on @tablehopper about the party, too! (It’s so hard to keep up. If only I didn’t have to write, too.) Thanks to the work of summer intern Francesca Gasparini, this week we’re following up with her archivist piece on 15 Romolo history that she researched and wrote, as well as a couple other pieces.

In my previous column, I asked if any of you could join me in saying thanks for Francesca’s dedicated work and please tip our intern some “walking around money” (which is what my grandmother used to call it) as she goes back to school, and I was quite dismayed to learn there was only ONE PERSON who threw her some dough. Really? There are thousands of you. My friend (the sole person who sent her anything) suggested I mention it again, so, can you please consider sending Francesca a lil’ tip of appreciation instead of thinking someone else is gonna do it for you? (Which in the end is going to be me.) Her Venmo is @francescagasparini. Grazie mille!

All aboard! The tablehopper 20th anniversary party train keeps on chugging, wooo wooo! This week’s column has all the info you need below about the second event in the series: tablehopper’s 10/20 anniversary PrimeBird dinner with Nightbird on Thursday October 15th! If you love House of Prime Rib, then you’re going to lose your mind over this modern tribute from chef Kim Alter and co-owner/GM/beverage manager Ron Boyd, who are making this tablehopper subscriber only-dinner so extra-magical. Like the title of my life story, #therewillbeChampagne. (And Yorkshire pudding.) Don’t miss it!

More anniversary fun: I was so fired up to see tablehopper included as a Best of the Bay 2026 Editors’ Pick by 48 Hills! Awwww, great timing! (Fellow journalist Tamara Palmer wrote one heck of a thoughtful accolade, thank you!) The last time I won, it was for Best Fresh Scuttlebutt (lol) in 2007, and Best of the Bay 2011 and 2012 Readers Poll: Best Food/Drinks Blog or Site! (Hey, we can do it again, please vote for tablehopper for best local website!)

Read more Best of the Bay editorial picks here. Did you know the Bay Guardian was the first city paper to ask its readers to vote on their local favorites, all the way back in 1974?!

You can cast your vote in the 52nd annual Bay Guardian Best of the Bay Readers’ Poll, hosted by 48 Hills. Psssst, a little birdie just told me voting has been extended through Monday October 5th at midnight (you heard it here first). Hop to it!

What’s your favorite burrito or hair salon or yoga studio? (And please vote for tablehopper for best local website!) You don’t have to fill out every category to enter, but show as much love as you can—and don’t forget to hit the “Submit” button at the end. Get the word out to all your friends and favorite local businesses and customers!

Speaking of local businesses and haps I love: if you’re looking for something restorative yet stimulating with some very SF-community-minded programming, don’t miss First Sundays at Alchemy Springs; check out this Sunday’s lineup here. See you in the Sauna Garden!

More shindigs: a couple weekends ago, I was invited by SF New Deal to cover the third The Funky Brunch at The Nosh Box (take a peek at my pics), and fall was in the air with their Warren pear toast (which thankfully is still on the menu), DJs, sunshine, and cute vibes. This fun and funky daytime brunch returns every other month, thanks in part to Downtown ENRG, a program supporting arts, community experiences, and nightlife programming in SF (as well as this independent publication, thanks!). I’ll keep you posted on the next one! 

OK, let’s jump in. Happy Rocktober! 

Yours in disco and L.O.V.E.,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

10/20 Vision! The Next tablehopper Anniversary Event Is an Extra-Fabulous PrimeBird Dinner on Thursday October 15th!

Last week, I sent a teaser that I’m cohosting a tablehopper 20th anniversary version of a PrimeBird dinner with Nightbird’s Kim Alter and Ron Boyd (currently celebrating 10 years)! For our double anniversary 🥂 night, Kim and Ron are pulling out all the stops on their modern steakhouse dinner I fell in love with when they first ran it a couple years ago. It’s their homage to House of Prime Rib, with Nightbird’s Cali-soigné touch.

We had to shift the date to Thursday October 15th, but I really hope you can make it! We’ll dine together in the private dining room flanking Nightbird. 

All you awesome patrons and super patron subscribers have access to a VIP reception (6pm–6:30pm), with The Caviar Co. canapés, and Champagne Telmont is back supporting my anniversary events with their elegant bubbles (merci!).

Please let me know if you have a sponsorship at the patron/super patron level when you reserve your ticket (see below for instructions). You also have priority access/first crack at tickets—thanks for your generous support.

Starting at 6:30pm, ticketed tablehopper annual subscribers (and their guests) will join the party, and everyone will be welcomed with a brilliant cocktail from the adjoining The Linden Room that’s going to be featured in the upcoming Hopper 100 (it’s a surprise—I don’t want to give it away!) while we mingle over some old-school/new-school snacks (Kim and Ron love party bites). 

Once everyone arrives, we’ll start sitting down at our communal table by 7pm, beginning with the Little Gems with Green Goddess dressing (our beloved SF dressing—tarragon is my love language), plus Nightbird’s farro bread with cultured butter (so divine), and a glass of Réserve Brut from Champagne Telmont. Cin cin!

The main event will feature a rosy slice of 45-day, dry-aged Flannery Beef prime rib (the “Jorge” cut); creamed spinach; baked potato with all the fixings; herbed horseradish, truffle, and cheddar Yorkshire pudding (whut); and demented sauces (like smoked bone marrow wagyu Hollandaise!). It’s all sooooo good.

With the prime rib course, you have the choice of a Martini or glass of red wine. (Don’t drive to this dinner, okay?) We’ll wrap up with a custom 10th/20th anniversary dessert Kim is devising, as well as a couple cute sweets. 

The team is really spoiling us with this event: the entire dinner is only $150 (the three drinks mentioned above are included!), plus tax, 20% service charge, and SF mandate (6%), coming to $202.91 total. (For comparison, the regular PrimeBird meal—which doesn’t come with our special snacks, caviar, Champagne/cocktail/wine, and extra dessert treats—was $85/$115 all in, so this is a total steal. Who loves you?) Tremendous thanks to The Caviar Co. and Champagne Telmont for the generous support!

Sorry, no alterations to the menu. Additional drinks are extra. (If you prefer N/A beverages instead of what’s listed above, let Nightbird know when you buy your ticket.)

HOW TO GET A TICKET:

You must be a tablehopper annual subscriber to buy a ticket, and you can get a ticket for one guest (but encourage them to subscribe—there is even a sale right now!). If you want to bring more peeps, drop me a note and I’ll see what we can do! 🥂

Once I confirm your subscription level (annual, patron, super patron), I’ll connect you with Nightbird, who will have you pay in full ahead of the dinner. No refunds, no cancellations, no flaking. 

This event has super-limited seating, so don’t delay on booking your spot! Just email me (you can also hit reply to this newsletter) and I’ll let you know very soon if you’re in (I’m going to take 24 hours to let patrons and super patrons secure their reservations first).

If we end up getting a lot of interest, we may schedule a second date, or more! So, if October 15th doesn’t work for you, but you’d still like to attend another time, please let me know! I’d love to see you. This dinner is going to be a feast and a blast!

Thursday October 15th. 6pm: reception for Patrons and Super Patrons. 6:30pm: entry for annual subscribers. Cheers! 334 Gough St. at Linden.

News Briefs: Openings and Pop-Ups and Project Changes and Closures

Here are some quick news bites for ya. I’ll be following up on a few of these stories with in-person visits soon, but for now:

The City’s First Nikkei Handroll Bar Opens in Cow Hollow

By Francesca Gasparini

Last month, another handroll bar opened its doors in Cow Hollow, but this time with a Latin twist. KAIYŌ Handroll Bar is the new sister restaurant to the KAIYŌ Resturant and KAIYŌ Rooftop in the Hyatt Place San Francisco. The trio of restaurants, spearheaded by John Park and his Brick X Brick Hospitality Group, all surround Nikkei: a culinary tradition originating from Japanese immigrants in Peru that uses Japanese cooking techniques with native Peruvian ingredients.

I was able to stop by for a preview before their grand opening to try some of their signature handrolls and get eyes on the new space. The restaurant had a hipster feel with neon signs, a ceiling of wagasa (Japanese sun umbrellas), and shoji-inspired wall designs.

The menu, brought to life by chef Alex Reccio and chef de cuisine Kenji Sawada, highlights classic Peruvian dishes like lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with onions, tomatoes, and potatoes), anticuchos (Peruvian meat skewers), as well as a variety of ceviches, small bites, and, of course, handrolls.

The cocktail menu is a fruity display curated by Danny Louie and the beverages even extend to matcha mocktails and boozy matcha soft serve.

We ordered a chicken anticucho starter that came with a side of Peruvian corn and and crispy potatoes, as well as a selection of handrolls: the chu toro tiradito (bluefin tuna tataki, leche de tigre, avocado cream, chalaquilla), hotate ceviche (Hokkaido scallop, onion, kombu, tobiko, garlic chip), the arroz con pato (roasted duck, cilantro rice, sansho pepper, unagi, and gooseberry sauce), and the torotaku (otoro fatty bluefin tuna, takuan, shiso).

The handroll bar is planning to work their way into the nightlife scene with late hours and DJs. The space will stay open past service with a limited menu of small plates to pair with craft cocktails like the shima (pisco, pandan, pineapple, coconut, pineapple amaro, lime) and the hana no Manhattan (Japanese whisky, rye whiskey, jasmine tea, cherry blossom fortified wine, angostura bitters). Hours are Tue–Thu 4pm–12am, Fri–Sat 4pm–1am, Sun 4pm–9pm. 1838 Union St. at Octavia.

the sponsor

Vote Now for Best of the Bay 2026

Best Burrito? Best Dive Bar? Best Date Restaurant? Best Coffee? Best Pizza? The 48 Hills/Bay Guardian’s 52nd Best of the Bay Readers’ Poll is open now—tell us what you love! Every year, thousands of locals weigh in with their favorites in dozens of categories.

Winners are announced in October and celebrated at the acclaimed Best of the Bay Gala. You’re the first to know that voting has been extended to midnight on Monday October 5th, so hurry and vote—and tell your friends and favorite businesses to get the word out! 

the socialite

Celebrate Latine Makers at This Saturday’s Pop-Ups on the Plaza with Foodwise

By Francesca Gasparini

This Saturday October 3rd, is Foodwise’s Pop-Ups on the Plaza: Celebrating Latine Makers, presenting a day of delicious food, beverages, and artisan goods by over 12 Latine-owned local businesses in honor of Hispanic Heritage Month. Taking place at the Ferry Terminal Plaza and the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, this makers’ market will include mouthwatering Latine culinary feats and treats, like Cuban roast pork sandwiches, Colombian pastries, conchas, and Oaxacan tlayudas, as well as fun activities, like cooking demonstrations by chef Amalia Avendano of Tonantzin Mexican Cuisine, and baker Raquel Goldman of Norte 54.

Participating vendors include Chi Chi’s Kiosko, Clandestina Cocina, Dulce Maná, Flor de Chile, MexEvents/Casa Bonampak, Mi Comedor, Norte 54, Painted Leopard, Pass the Sauced, Semilla, SoulCraft Apotheca, Tonantzin Mexican Cuisine, and Xula Guatemalan Cuisine. The event is free (food is available for purchase) and runs from 9am–2pm. 1 Ferry Plaza.

the archivist

More Than Just a Restaurant: The Basque Hotel

By Francesca Gasparini

Although the Basque Hotel Restaurant blade sign still proudly outstretches from the corner of Broadway and Romolo above the marquee lights of the Hungry I Club, the traditional Basque boarding house and its restaurant have not hosted guests for many years.

Basque boarding houses (known locally as ostatuaks) were first constructed during the Gold Rush and acted as cultural centers for young Basque men seeking solidarity within their immigrant community in San Francisco. The National Park Service notes these hotels were not only vital in upholding cultural practices like language, culinary tradition, religion, and pilota (a beloved traditional Basque sport), they also played a key role in helping Basques find work and spouses.

According to Euskal Kazeta, the first of these boarding houses was built in 1866, and many were established throughout the latter half of the 19th century. Hotel Vasco on Powell Street was among the earliest, run by Martina Aguirre and her husband. Unfortunately, most of San Francisco’s “Basque Town” was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake and fire.

In the aftermath came the cluster of hotels and restaurants separating Chinatown and North Beach that many of you may be familiar with. These establishments thrived throughout much of the 1900s, until business began to weaken when Basques began to settle down and move out of the boarding houses around the 1960s. The Basque Hotel and Hotel des Alpes & Restaurant at 732 Broadway (which funnily enough became Rosewood, another Jon Gasparini and Greg Lindgren bar project) were among the last.

Nestled in the steep alleyway of Romolo, perched just above the bustling jazz clubs and striptease joints of Broadway, lies the remnants of the old Basque Hotel. Constructed in 1912, the hotel functioned as a boarding house for traveling Basques from 1964–1996.

This historic hotel had many ownership turnovers throughout the years, but was originally opened in 1964 by Marthe and Pierre Bigue. According to Gardeners of Identity: Basques in the San Francisco Bay Area by Pedro J. Oiarzabal, Marthe had previously owned Hotel du Midi, another Basque hotel located at 1362 Powell Street, before buying and opening The Basque Hotel and Restaurant. 

A dissertation by Jerónima Echeverría at North Texas State University, titled A History of California’s Basque Hotels, identifies Joseph and Madeleine Gestas as the successors to the Bigues. The paper goes on to outline the hotel’s subsequent ownership transfers: Sauveur and Anna Anchartechahar took over in 1975, followed by Antoinette and Francisco (Daniel-Francisco) Oroz, who leased the building from the Achartechahars from 1979 to 1985. Finally, Rebecca and Jean-Emile Idiart purchased and operated the hotel and restaurant from 1985 until its closure in 1996.

The tenants who occupied this twenty-five room hotel were most commonly shepherds, fishermen, and cooks who traveled from the Basque Country in search of work and new roots. Idiart was said to have taken up five separate units all to himself to create one huge apartment during his years of operation. But beyond the upper floors of otherwise modest lodging accommodations, what this spot was really known for was its traditional French Basque dinner service at The Basque Hotel Restaurant, which occupied the first floor.

The dining experience was quintessentially Basque, with traditional family-style dinners that drew both local Basque families and tourists alike. There would be only one service nightly, starting promptly at 6:30pm, with just a few large picnic tables to seat whomever was dining that evening.

In one article remembering the establishment, Matthew Iribarne recalled that depending on the day of the week, the menu would differ between proteins like trout with lemon sauce, leg of duck, oxtail stew or chicken Basque, a traditional braised chicken dish with peppers and tomatoes (it was expected that you called ahead of time to state your preference for white or dark meat so they could prepare accordingly).

Soup was always served first in large tureens, and salad was last (in the traditional Basque style), and old patrons often reminisce over the never-ending mounds of French fries on old blog forums. Nondescript red wine was poured generously and often into the same tumbler reused for water and coffee throughout the meal, and dishes were passed communally between strangers around the table.

In the back corner of the restaurant stood a small Formica bar, and behind it, a grand, double-door, forest green 1950s refrigerator from which a bartender would be mixing up Kalimoxtos and traditional Picón Punch. On Sunday nights, the tenants who lived above would all come downstairs to enjoy a weekly feast, making the space feel more like a family dining room than a traditional restaurant.

The meals were all-inclusive, with a flat rate of around five to eight dollars for your fill of food and wine. Their unreliable system of having customers pay as they left, coupled with the unlimited wine, likely contributed to the restaurant’s losses over the years and eventually led to its closure in December 1996. Although The Basque Hotel above still operates as a boarding house for long-term renters to this day, it is no longer run by Idiart, nor is home to any Basque residents.

And as many of you likely know, the first floor of 15 Romolo Place has long been home to the cocktail bar 15 Romolo, which has made a point of incorporating elements of the building’s Basque history into its atmosphere and offerings. Opened in 1998 by Jon Gasparini and Greg Lindgren, 15 Romolo quickly became one of The City’s most cherished bars. Known for their excellent cocktails, beloved Sunday brunch, and mahogany-hued sultry ambiance, this hidden-away bar has established itself as a longtime North Beach favorite (if you read my byline, you may see why I’m partial). 

After having to close their doors in summer of 2024, Gasparini couldn’t bring himself to walk away from the bar he opened at 28 and where he started his career. For the past eight months, Gasparini and his wife, Kelly Anne, have been personally remodeling the space, getting ready to launch a revamped version of 15 Romolo this October. As for what’s to come, you can read about what to expect in the upcoming remodeled 15 Romolo in last week’s tablehopper preview here.

Cheers to 20 years! Let’s celebrate! 🥂 Become an annual supporting subscriber and I’d love to see you at PrimeBird on the 15th! 🍸

what’s cookin’

Hellllllooooooooo! It’s me, I’m back in SF after running away to my family’s cabin in Tahoma for a quick summer break. I planned to send you a dispatch while I was there, but my parents decided to join me and my sister at the lake, so enjoying the precious time with my sweet family took precedence over laptop time. Fortuna was thrilled to have four people fawning over her and her daily nature walks (although Chip—her chipmunk boyfriend last month—didn’t come by to tease her; I think he realized they weren’t a good match).

Although so much for working on my tan and swimming in the lake every day—the first week was in the 50s and raining. (Not yet, fall! No soup for you!) I can’t believe I made a fire for two nights. Anyway, I needed to power-wash and stain the wraparound deck, so at least the non-beach weather was a good motivator for doing cabin chores. Sis and I also spent a day painting all the deck railing while playing the 70s music we grew up listening to at the cabin on our eight-track machine. Physical labor and the Saturday Night Fever soundtrack: recommended.

Fortunately, warmer temps returned for a few days, so we were back to swimming in the lake and grilling, and a sunset dinner on the deck at Christy Hill in Tahoe City to celebrate my sister’s birthday. I loved JB’s wine list (hello, Corsican rosé!), the gregarious staff, and chef Luis Vallin’s menu was full of creative touches and ingredients, like lemon verbena in a spin on a caprese salad with stracciatella, and a memorable venison tartare. While the furnishings are dated, the view (and warm hospitality) are timeless. Sadly, we had to cancel our family dinner at Savoie, but I plan to make it there later this fall for tartiflette season!

Just before leaving SF a few weeks ago, I pressed pause on the newsletter so I could throw a last-minute and intimate cocktail party (Vent’Anni) to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary at the remodeled 15 Romolo—Jon and Kelly Anne Gasparini oh-so-kindly offered to host this very early preview before they reopen the beloved bar next month. What a dream location for my party, our beloved 15 Romolo, right in the heart of North Beach!

The only difficult part was the extremely limited capacity I had to adhere to for the bar’s first preview, so please don’t be miffed if you didn’t see an invite—it had to be super-tiny, and the whole thing was arranged quickly and kind of felt like a shotgun wedding. There will be more anniversary parties!

For now, read all about the upcoming reopening of 15 Romolo below, and there’s a fun Vent’Anni party recap. (If you can read this on a laptop or monitor, it will be much more enjoyable.) This week’s column got way too big, so you can read all about the history of the storied location as The Basque Hotel in the next issue in the archivist (thanks to summer intern Francesca Gasparini).

Tremendous thanks to our longtime friends at Charbay for generously being our premier event sponsor for this first shindig in a series of events to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary. I hope to raise a glass with you at my next gathering, there are so many of you to thank and reminisce with. But only annual supporting subscribers will be able to get tickets to these anniversary soirées. I’m also launching some fun anniversary content and retrospectives, here we gooooo!

Speaking of: in October, I’m cohosting a supped-up tablehopper version of a PrimeBird dinner with Kim Alter and Ron Boyd of Nightbird (currently celebrating 10 years)! They’re going to be pulling out all the stops on this modern steakhouse dinner I fell in love with when they first ran it a couple years ago in their private dining space. Bring on the Flannery Beef prime rib au jus with smoked bone marrow wagyu Hollandaise and herbed horseradish, truffle, and cheddar Yorkshire pudding! It’s sooooo good. And raise your glass, because Champagne Telmont 🥂 is joining me once again for this anniversary event. Ticket info, pricing, and reservations will be released super soon, and seating is very limited. Watch for my email! This event is for annual supporting subscribers only (and patrons and super patrons will have access to a VIP reception).

If you (or a brand or company or product you work with) would like to be involved as an event partner or sponsor/donor/supporter/underwriter, please get in touch! There are a bunch of opportunities and ways we can work together. Are you in the media? I have story ideas and some cool content coming. Let’s talk! Thank you for supporting tablehopper’s 20th anniversary and event series!

It was a timely surprise to be included in this feature in SincerelySusye: Top Independent San Francisco Bloggers to Follow in 2027, which was written to include “independent bloggers whose work met the full editorial criteria: domain ownership, original long-form publishing, established archives, active publishing, and a meaningful San Francisco or Bay Area connection.” Yeah, that’s me. (Except for the blogger part, but still, right on and thanks.)

I also appreciate the shoutout in 48 Hills from my homie in bites and beats, Tamara Palmer, who wrote a preview of fall projects in last week’s Good Taste column.

There’s a bunch of news to catch you up on, which I’ll be able to dig deeper into after I get out from under this pile of emails and press releases, but for now, I’m sharing a few timely headlines and quick bites below.

I’m sad to report this is the last month we have summer intern Francesca Gasparini contributing to tablehopper since she has headed back to school at UCSB! It was such a pleasure to have her snappy writing, lively voice, enthusiasm, much-needed admin help, and dedicated research over the past few months—and I really appreciated her event support for Vent’Anni (her floral displays were beautiful).

This will likely embarrass her, but if you want to join me in saying thanks for her work and tip her some “walking around money” (which is what my grandmother used to call it) as she goes back to school, her Venmo is @francescagasparini. Grazie!

So, this week is going to be an absolute banger. I literally can’t wait to return to Despacio at Portola Music Festival this weekend (September 26th–27th), and I’m praying to get me and my bestie into the Despacio Extravaganza pre-party on Friday. (Let me know if you hear of any tickets, thank youuuu.)

I won’t have any Portola schedule conflicts since I will be in that tent the entire weekend. You can read my recap from last year’s Portola of this life-changing, soul-affirming, and incomparable musical and dance floor experience (which I ended up chasing to iii Points in Miami a month later for a second tour of disco duty). I swore to myself I would never miss another Despacio, no matter when and where it was happening, and lucky me/us, it’s gonna be in our backyard once again. It’s such a gift.

My dear disco friends, I better see you on the dance floor. I mean it. You’ve heard me talk about this so much. I know it’s Folsom weekend, but you can do both! You can buy a single-day ticket, and all you need is GA to get into Despacio. You’ll be outta there by 11pm (set times here), so I don’t want to hear about how you can’t stay out late. DO IT. Read my friend Vlad’s post on Magical Dancefloors for even more convincing and deep Despacio storytelling.

New this year: The Four Horsemen (James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem’s wine bar and restaurant in Brooklyn) is serving cocktails inside Despacio. (Dreams almost answered?? All I wanted was a glass of Champagne while I was in there!)

And if you can’t make it to the festival, this week is Portola Week, with acts performing all over town before and after the festival. Soulwax will be putting on one of their SICK shows at The Regency Ballroom this Thursday (low ticket alert!) and the next night, 2manydjs (the Dewaele brothers) will be playing a DJ set at 1015 on Friday night (can’t stop, won’t stop), as well as FCUKERS at Public Works, and Neil Frances at 888 Garage...and more! Buckle up!

Since I’m lighting a disco candle and praying to get into the Despacio Extravaganza on Friday night, I need to sell my two floor/GA tickets to the Kruder & Dorfmeister: K&D Kicks 30 Anniversary Tour this Friday September 25th at the Fox Theater in Oakland (8pm). I paid $133.50, and will let ’em go for $100! I hope someone wants to buy them. They put on such a great show—last year’s K&D Sessions tour was epic. I wish I could clone myself. Let me know! MWAH. 💋

Have a great week! XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

A Quick News Roundup

Before we dive into all of this week’s 15 Romolo coverage, here are some of the latest news headlines:

This Saturday September 19th is the last service for the Southern-inspired Prelude at The Jay, Autograph Collection hotel in San Francisco. The AvroKO-designed space was such a stunna, and executive chef Celtin Hendrickson-Jones made some delicious dishes (gonna miss those wings and catfish dumplings), and same goes for the bar team—that P.F.C Martini! Hendrickson-Jones will stay with Omakase Restaurant Group, working alongside ORG Culinary Director Dustin Falcon at Niku Steakhouse.

Moving in will be Shinka, featuring modern Japanese cuisine with French technique and NorCal ingredients, led by executive chef Fumio Yonezawa (Jean-Georges, Jean-Georges Tokyo, NO CODE in Tokyo and Taipei), who’s new to SF. Look for an October opening—Shinka will debut with a tasting menu and a selection of dishes available at the bar, with a full à la carte menu to follow. Franco Bilbaeno will still lead the bar team, cheers to that.

No more steamer baskets of har gow in the atrium at Rincon Center: Yank Sing is closing their longtime (and largest) Spear Street location after 27 years on Sunday September 20th (the lease is up); thankfully, their 49 Stevenson Street location will remain open. [Via SF Chronicle]

After closing Anomaly so he could take a mental and physical health break, the ever-driven, chef-owner Mike Lanham is back with the next iteration of his modern culinary vision: Athanor. The alchemy continues. (Read more in this SF Eater feature.] 2600 Sutter St. at Baker.

Another fliperoo: the former French Bistro La Chaumière on Divisadero (which had a short-lived transformation into Divis Taqueria) is now Anima Bistro, featuring legit Italian dishes, like Venetian fritto misto with shrimp and local calamari with lemon aioli; housemade lasagna of beef ragù and autumn truffle (for just $22!); pappardelle with slow-cooked Italian ragù and Fontina fondue ($24); and there are even a few pizzas. Lunch and dinner are offered.

I inquired about who the chef is, and was surprised to learn it’s Valentino Luchin, who was the executive chef of Rose Pistola back in 2007, and he went on to open and own the acclaimed Ottavio in Walnut Creek, which sadly closed due to financial and legal issues in 2016. Things began to really spiral for him, and Luchin was in the news in 2018, and then again in 2025, for allegedly robbing a number of local banks, acts of pure desperation. The New York Times ran this thoughtfully written and heart-wrenching story about his travails (a much-needed counterpoint to all the sensational headlines that churned through the news).

I asked owner Kamel Bouzidi how Luchin is doing, and he said, “He’s doing very good now, I hope people understand everybody has [the] right for the second chance.” (Or, in this case, a third.) Here’s wishing some stability for both Luchin and Anima Bistro—the restaurant business is truly brutal. Anima is open for lunch and dinner, and has some sidewalk seating as well. Open Mon, Wed, and Thu 11:30am–3pm and 5pm–9pm; Fri until 9:30pm; Sat 11:30am–9:30pm; Sun 11:30am–9pm; closed Tue. 607 Divisadero St. at Grove.

A tablehopper reader let me know that the Tunisian Gola on Valencia has sadly closed (you can read my preview from 2023 here). But, some good news: I hear owner Rafik Bouzidi (who is related to Kamel Bouzidi at Anima Bistro)...

Awwww, the cute and little old-school Corsagna Deli in Cow Hollow is closing after 47 years, on Friday October 2nd. 1668 Union St. at Gough.

After working together for 20 years, chef pâtissier Juan Contreras is departing his Willy Wonka workshop at Dominique Crenn’s Atelier Crenn, where he has delighted us with his innovative and whimsical creations for the past 15 years. According to Dom’s thoughtful farewell post on Instagram, he’s beginning a new chapter—I reached out for more, will let you know if I hear back.

After opening in 2021, Lower Haight’s Otra is sadly closing in December (no more tacos and totopos), but the talented Spencer Horovitz will be opening his brick-and-mortar location for his California-Jewish pop-up, Hadeem, in there in early 2027. I’ll share more deets on that soon.

Congrats to the ever-resilient Azikiwee Anderson, who just opened Rize Up Cafe, a public-facing space in the front of Rize Up Bakery in SoMa, where you can enjoy grilled cheese and toasts and quiche, and will be able to pick up a loaf of his many inspired breads (from masala to semolina hoagie rolls). SFGATE wrote up an early visit, with some details about the menu. Open Wed–Sun 8am–3pm. 1160 Howard St. at Rausch (near 8th St.).

I need to head over stat to Corey’s Pizza for a Staten Island–style thin slice—the shop opened last week in the former Turner’s Kitchen with a limited menu for now (and they just launched online ordering and delivery). Updates at @coreyspizzasf. Open daily 4pm–10pm. 3505 17th St. at Guerrero.

Just a block away from Golden Gate Park, a tablehopper subscriber shared a hot scoop that Mama’s Boy Pizza is opening its first-ever San Francisco location. This Oakland-based, New York-style pizza joint will be taking over the former home of Inner Sunset’s Reliable Rexall Sunset Pharmacy on Irving Street, which had previously resided there since 1932. Mama’s Boy Pizza has been building its reputation since opening in March 2023 for having one of the best NY-style slices in the Bay Area. It was ranked ninth in the nation by one Italian pizza ranking site—50 Top Pizza—which specifically complimented its Margherita grandma for its crispy undercarriage, fluffy crust, flavorful sauce, and the perfect ratio of cheese, basil, and Parmesan.

Owners Ezra Berman and Miles Palliser opened Mama’s Boy Pizza to offer a New York–style slice shop in the Bay Area, and as an additional business to complement their nearby sports bar the two previously started together, Athletic Club Oakland. Inspired by both of their New York mothers, the two friends set out on a mission to try as many slices as they could to understand and formulate the ideal recipe to bring back to the Bay. According to Nosh, Berman and Palliser took a four-day trip to New York for an intense pizza-tasting tour led by their friend Angelo Womak, where they tried 44 different pies. For the past three years, they’ve been bringing the taste of New York to Uptown Oakland, and, evidently, SF is next. [We reached out to them for confirmation, and Mission Local has since confirmed the project.] Stay tuned for more details soon. 801 Irving St. at 9th Ave. ~Francesca Gasparini

I spotted this early peek inside Bruno’s, which has been closed for the past six years, and I can barely reconcile the current club with my memories of dining at the bar on chef James Ormsby’s supper club menu in the 90s, or grooving to acid jazz in the stylish Cork Club. Anyway, I’m old. Mission Local reports the club is currently soft opening with some weekend parties until a grand opening in October. 2389 Mission St. at 20th St.

the socialite

Vent’Anni at 15 Romolo: The First in a Series of Celebrations for tablehopper’s 20th Anniversary

When Jon and Kelly Anne Gasparini invited me to host a preview party at the soon-to-reopen and renovated 15 Romolo, I couldn’t believe how perfectly their generous offer aligned with where I’d want to be able to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary. A dream! I know I’m not alone in having many years of fond memories (honestly, mostly hazy ones) from late nights at that stealth bar in North Beach.

It felt really good to be back, and the bar is looking so fine. It’s like finding the perfect shade of red lipstick or having a Martini made the way you like it—classic, chic, classy (but unpretentious). Just right. It’s exactly the kind of bar I want to hang out at for this stage of my cocktail-drinking life.

I know I’ll be seeing many of our guests back at the bar when it reopens next month. It was a puuuush for the Gasparinis to get the bar ready for this early preview party (there are design elements they’re still finishing up), and they put so much thought and heart into so many event details, but they pulled it all off beautifully, and we really loved the sneak peek!

A huge shoutout to all the incredible folks who worked the party—everyone was so fun, personable, and professional. It felt like a natural extension of a house party, but we were in a bar—the best kind of hospitality! For the first preview night, it was so impressive. Thank you! (And this is why Rye on the Road is amazing for cocktail catering, such pros.)

Mille grazie to summer intern Francesca Gasparini for all her event support (and the stunning flower arrangements!), I so appreciated her dedicated help.

It was an honor to be able to kick off the next era for the bar, and a new decade for tablehopper with many of the people who got me to this moment. Honestly, I need a stadium to host and thank all of you friends and longtime supporters and collaborators, but hosting a series of smaller and highly personal events feels right.

Thanks to all of you who followed the dress code and really turned it out! I love being in a room of friends looking so snazzy and sharp. We all need to dress up more. You’re beautiful. (And so sexy in the new amber glow of 15 Romolo!)

Tremendous thanks to emcee and dear friend Liam Mayclem for his rousing and heartfelt toast, and to the glam Juanita MORE! for her electric rendition of I’m Always Drunk in San Francisco—what a dame, what a moment! 

It felt like an only-in-San Francisco kind of party, the way tablehopper is an only-in-SF kind of column. Looking around the room, it was a vibrant gathering of our city’s creatives and culture-makers and bohemians, our incomparable food and beverage industry, North Beach friends, tablehopper collaborators...it was a celebration of SF queerness, our progressive values, our flair, and big, caring hearts. Such quality people. I cherish our community so damn much.

It felt wonderful to be able to work with people and brands I have known and loved for years. None of it would have been possible without the magnanimous support from our premier event sponsor, Jenni and Marko Karakasevic of Charbay Distillery, whom I first met for a tasting and tour on Spring Mountain in 2008! And when I held parties for my book launch in 2010, Charbay was there with a Plum Twisted cocktail for my poolside happy hour at Bardessono. We have some long history and many shared memories from SF’s vibrant craft cocktail scene 20 years ago. Just to add to the hopper connection: did you know Marko (who is a 13th-generation master distiller) pioneered the hopped-whiskey category in the U.S. when he cracked the code of distilling from bottle-ready beer in an alembic pot still?

Jenni was pouring some very special and rare cheekies for our guests, like a preview of Charbay’s upcoming petrichor gin (stand by for a 2027 launch of that one, inspired by the scent of Spring Mountain after it rains), Charbay 1983 Brandy (so damn gorgeous, a sipper from the heavens), and Charbay 2005 Double Aged Rum.

The 15 Romolo team pulled from the extensive Charbay portfolio for our party cocktail menu, which included a Charbay Vodka Martini (which will be on the 15 Romolo menu when it reopens!) and the Spaghetti Western (with Tapatío blanco tequila 110 proof, grapefruit, Campari, rosemary).

I started my night with the Charbay Espresso Martini, and I know I wasn’t the only one who appreciated a little pick-me-up from this guaranteed party starter. (Did you know you can just pour it from the bottle and shake and strain it at home?)

And I wanted to feature an SF original, the Boothby, which the 15 Romolo team made with Charbay Doubled & Twisted whiskey (a blend of five custom-brewed, individually distilled and aged Charbay whiskeys), Cocchi Torino sweet vermouth, and a float of Champagne Telmont. (I love having this cocktail at my parties.)

Guests also got to preview 15 Romolo’s Fords Gin Martini, and the Caprese Highball I mention in my Romolo recap piece below. (See you again real soon.)

I was so thrilled to have a Champagne tower be the first thing our guests saw on arrival—thanks to former Romolo bar manager Ian Adams for making that happen. (It felt so good to have him there—it wasn’t the first time he poured at a tablehopper event at 15 Romolo!) Merci beaucoup to Champagne Telmont for supplying oh-so-many coupes of their refreshing and elegant Réserve Brut (did you know they are the first Champagne house to obtain the certification Regenerative Organic Certified® for their vineyards?).

More bubbles! It was a treat to be able to spoil our guests with Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, a forever-favorite sparkling rosé of mine, and I was so grateful for the gift of a big bottle o’ bubs for everyone to sign, what a thoughtful memento (thank you, CEO Remi Cohen and publicist extraordinaire Kimberly Charles of Charles Communications). See, this is what women do for each other. Pure class. I appreciate the excellence and female-centric legacy of this local winery (and their PR!). Cheers, ladies!

At the end of the party, our late-night posse piled into a booth and cracked a bottle of the Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, the best after-midnight bubs. So refreshing. Think pink! We played songs on Romolo’s new jukebox, and had a moment listening to Dolly, and raised our coupes to that singular woman.

Another longtime friend who came through is the one-and-only Duggan McDonnell, who helped stock our party with the zero-proof Pentire Paloma. So good. (Thanks, Shotzi.) 

Chef Giovanni Gasparini and his kitchen team cranked out an abbondanza of delicious bites for our guests, from ricotta-stuffed fried olives with lemon aioli, to summer caprese salad. The star of the evening was a preview of the chophouse steak sandwich (you can read all about it in my Romolo renovation recap—it was such a hit). 

Grazie mille (again) to Kimberly Charles for the connection to Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co., who graciously donated their creamy Toma for Giovanni’s pancetta arancini, and a duo of crostini featured Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. pimento cheese spread topped with cornichons, and their Original Blue Date Spread, which Giovanni flourished with sweet pickled red onions. (Those are instant party bites for your next gathering!) And the bar team stuffed olives with the Point Reyes Original Blue for the Martinis, so damn delicious.

For dessert, I wanted everyone to enjoy a slice of a North Beach classic: the Sacripantina cake from Stella Pastry & Cafe, since 1942! (It also served as a taste of one of the items that will featured in my upcoming Hopper 100—more on that very soon!)

Charbay came through yet again for the gift bag, with minis of their Charbay Espresso Martini (I thought they would be a swell hair-of-the-dog present to get guests back in the game the next day). Cans are coming soon! 

Jon and Kelly Anne created the most charming memento: a Blue Note–inspired album sleeve that contained the original 45s that came in the jukebox they restored, and the track listing cleverly highlighted our sponsors. So thoughtful, so cool (just like them!). There were also jukebox tokens in the gift bag for guests to use when they return after the bar opens!

And where would I be without my gay glam squad? Mil gracias, my beloved Mr. Anthony, for taking such exquisite care of me all day, and always giving me the best goddamned event hair (the gardenias were intoxicating—everyone loved their romantic scent when I’d hug them). Book him for your next event updo or holiday party tresses or fab color and cut at Ginger Rubio.

Thank youuuuu to the talented Drex Campos (Form and Finish Beauty) for my 70s-meets-Xanadu makeup that managed to stay put on a hot day and with all my running around (a miracle!). Gang, he can do gorgeous, but if you need someone for scary Halloween makeup, Drex is your boo!

I am the luckiest lady evah to bask in the impeccable styling of my dear Scott Goble, who always knows exactly what I need (those gold shoes! That vintage Paco Rabanne chain necklace!), and whose sign-off before I walk out the door is like a blessing from the style gods. How can one person have so much taste?

I always want a friendly face and sparkly personality to run my door, and Marya Kahan of Moxie Proxy Events really understood thew assignment, showing up in full sequins, with tablehopper blue boots! She was a tremendous event support (some people just naturally know what you need while hosting an event, and she is one of them), and she is also a high-energy auctioneer, fundraiser, MC, and day-of event coordinator. Book her for your holiday events!

So, can you believe all these fabulous images? It makes a huge difference when you’re already friends with your event photographer, and even better when they move in the same circles you do, and really love cocktails, and know the shots you need to get. I have admired the talented Ashley Rose Conway’s stunning cocktail content for @craftandcocktails for years, and when our original photographer had to unfortunately drop out at the last minute, I was so stoked to find out Ashley has quietly started shooting events! Um, hello! It was meant to be. Her vivacious personality and bubbly energy and creativity shine in all these images, and she hustled allllll night. Thank you, goddess!

As a music obsessive, the soundtrack to any of my parties is one of the most important components. While I love Romolo’s new jukebox, I wanted the music for the party to be continuous and build a certain vibe. I thought I was just going to put together a playlist, and then my dear friend, Tamara Palmer (T$!)—a longtime music journalist, professional DJ, author, zine maker, Music Book Club founder, and fellow food writing freelancer and San Mateo homie—offered the sweetest gift: to do a party mix for tablehopper’s 20th. Awwww!

There’s nothing like a mix from someone who knows you, and she made me two—you can listen to both (linked below) and see the tracklists, too, ’cause she’s good like that. (Thanks, teemoney, for allowing me to be a control freak and request some of my personal faves, like Steppin’ Out, and some Italian tracks.) Here’s what she had to say:

“It was a pleasure to work with my food writing mentor Marcia Gagliardi to program two exclusive and Despacio-inspired fantasy disco DJ mixes for tablehopper’s 20th anniversary at 15 Romolo in North Beach. I am proud that she said that I gave her goosebumps upon the first listen, and that we are now sharing this celebratory soundtrack with her dear readers. Her taste is exquisite, and I selected some gems as well.

“I have over 30 years experience as a DJ who enjoys working with restaurant and food events. I’m available to spin, create custom mixes or original music for restaurant events as a soloist or with my new duo, Wealth + Hellness!” Yeah, hit her up!

tablehopper 20

Mix 1: 2.5 hours
Fantastic Plastic Machine — Steppin’ Out
Eartha Kitt — C’est Si Bon
Thundercat — Satellite Space Age
Nightmares on Wax — Calling
ESTA. — Jammin
The Stranglers — Peaches
Musical Youth — Pass the Dutchie
Eddie Hazel — California Dreaming
Ready for the World — Don’t Disturb This Groove
Señor Coconut — White Horse
Romeo Void — Never Say Never
Sister Nancy — Bam Bam
Grace Jones — La Vie en Rose
Tears for Fears — Everybody Wants to Run the World (Running Version)
The Beat — Mirror in the Bathroom
Sade — Feel No Pain (Cutso Slap)
Seals and Crofts — Summer Breeze
Kool & the Gang — Summer Madness
Al B. Sure — Nuit et Jour
David Bowie — Fame (Daniel Crawford Remix)
Marvin Gaye — A Funky Space Reincarnation
O’Jays — For the Love of Money
Sly & The Family Stone — Luv ‘N Haight
Steve Miller Band — Fly Like an Eagle (Phoreyez Remix)
Men Without Hats — Safety Dance (Extended Version)
New Edition — A Little Bit of Love (Instrumental)
Chaka Khan — Ain’t Nobody (Hot Classics Remix)
George McCrae — You Can Have It All
Hot Chocolate — Every 1’s a Winner
The Dominatrix — The Dominatrix Sleeps Tonight
MFSB — The Message
Sheila E — A Love Bizarre
Diana Ross — Love Hangover
Hall & Oates — Go 4 That (LNTG Mix)
Pointer Sisters — Automatic

Mix 2: 75 min.
Bohannon — Let’s Start the Dance
Bryan Ferry — Don’t Stop the Dance
Les Rita Mitsouko — Marcia Baïla
The Clash — This Is Radio Clash (Different Lyrics)
Human League — Don’t You Want Me (Purple Disco Machine Remix)
Patrick Cowley featuring Sylvester — Do Ya Wanna Funk?
ESG — Dance (Cutso’s Shakedown)
Goya — House at the Sea (Psychemagik Edit)
La Bellini — Satan in Love
Mina — Capisco
Pino D’Angiò — Okay Okay
Milton Wright — Friends and Buddies
Isley Brothers — It’s a Disco Night (Rock Don’t Stop)
Tame Impala — Let It Happen (Soulwax Remix)

So, on that note 🎵, thanks to everyone who helped make this such a sweet and memorable gathering, and here’s to seeing you at 15 Romolo in October, and more upcoming tablehopper anniversary events! Cin cin! 🥂

the lush

The Renovated 15 Romolo Is About to Reopen, and at 28 Years Old, the Clandestine Bar Has a New Air of Timeless Elegance and Refined Taste 

When Greg Lindgren and Jon Gasparini opened 15 Romolo on a quiet alley in North Beach in June 1998, they were on the brink of SF’s latest craft cocktail movement (the groundbreaking Absinthe Brasserie & Bar opened that same year, creating seasonal and ingredient-driven riffs on classic cocktails). The place had such a cool vibe, with great music and a fun crowd who liked to drink. 15 Romolo was also ahead of the modern speakeasy revival that became a de facto style during the aughts with its dark lighting, wood plank floors, and hidden-away address (Bourbon & Branch wouldn’t be around for another seven years, opening in 2005).

Lindgren and Gasparini went on to open Rosewood Bar in Chinatown in 2001, and industry watering hole Rye in 2006 (which just celebrated its 20th anniversary as well, cheers!). They also founded Rye on the Road mobile beverage catering in 2009.

15 Romolo has always been the perfect hideout in North Beach, tucked away from the busy bar scene of Grant and Columbus on the steep Romolo Place alley, perched above the gaudy lights of Broadway and the Hungry I below—you’d see the glow of the red neon The Basque Hotel sign, and that’s about it. Inside, it was always dimly lit, and felt like a secret—it was custom made for a great date spot, and known for an excellent Pimm’s Cup, as well as Picón Punch (paying tribute to its Basque roots), and a late-night bite (those fries!). There was always something for anyone with taste there, and the menu went far beyond your standard bar meat and cheese plate, eventually focusing on tapas, and they even hosted a renowned Sunday boozy brunch.

There were a number of talented bartenders and managers and chefs over the years, creating different eras and styles of the bar, from the relaunch in 2008 with Aaron Gregory Smith and Scott Baird (with carnival food and their clever craft cocktails), along with the talented Brandon Josie, and then there was the sick sherry selection from Ian Adams. It had everything it needed to be an industry hangout for years. And the fricking drinks! They were always ahead of the times. I was looking at some old menus, and back in 2014, I had the Darjeeling Ltd., with gin, turmeric, Earl Grey, lime, gum syrup, and a sprinkling of black pepper (just $10, awwww).

After barely making it through the pandemic (remember their Basque picnic boxes?), Gasparini and Lindgren closed the bar for a remodel in 2024. It was also the time for new lease negotiations and ownership changes—at one point, the bar was on the brink of being leased to someone else, but Gasparini brought on his wife, Kelly Anne, as an owner and they signed the new lease together (Lindgren is still involved and remains a partner).

The couple decided to really lean into the upgrades the bar needed to shepherd it into its future decades—they’re redesigning it with the hope and vision that it outlasts them and lives on to be a North Beach standard. The space dates back to 1912, and was formerly a Basque boarding house and restaurant, which you can read about in the archivist next week. Jon shares that while he has been working in the space almost daily for the past seven months, numerous people have come by and rattled the gate, looking to see if The Basque Hotel and Restaurant still existed from their memories from 40-plus years ago. He said it feels like some good juju.

In an interesting crossover, Kelly Anne has her home in Boise, where there’s a strong Basque community (thanks to all the land for farming), and even hosts the largest Basque festival in the U.S., Jaialdi, with attendees coming from all over the world on the last week of July every five years. The community there even knows about 15 Romolo and The Basque Hotel.

After 114 years, the bar was in need of some foundational updates, from the electrical to plumbing. Since labor is so expensive, the Gasparinis have been doing the majority of the work themselves (including many family members, and their friend, Dwayne Hill, a woodworker who comes down from Boise to help), from installing an air conditioner (yay), to building a curving soffit above the bar with recessed amber lighting, to adding mahogany panels above the previous mahogany wainscoting, all the way to the custom ceiling (which they painted themselves).

This way, they were able to dedicate more money into materials and supplies, like the green Heath tiles their son Giovanni installed behind the bar, and recovering the 1950’s Thonet barstools (the new seating by the front window has porcelain bases that were originally from a soda fountain—you may remember them from Rosewood).

The former banquettes are now four spacious booths with black channel tufting, plus there are a couple big booths along the opposing wall that allow for tables to be added or moved out for flexible seating options (be sure to note the stacked and exposed plywood square edges on the tables that Jon made, which bring a mid-century touch).

Jon has been a fan of modernism all his life, so he was excited to finally find a home for his Art Deco milk glass sconces that he salvaged in his early 20s and has been storing for the past 35 years—you’ll see them on the center wood pillar. There’s a soft glow from the new globe fixtures and wall lights, and when you first walk in, there’s a chic Deco overhead light fixture with brass and folds of linen. While some things may feel the same (the layout, the bar, the sexy hideaway sensibility), the room feels more refined, polished, and elegant. Ms. Romolo has grown up a bit, and she knows some things.

The former CD jukebox, which was a favorite of many, proved challenging to find parts for, so it has been swapped out for a 1951 Seeberg Select-O-Matic jukebox that has its own newly created niche in the back of the bar. It needed a major restoration, but since the parts are all mechanical, it could be fixed—it took four months to completely rebuild it. It now houses a new collection of 100 45s, and since the Seeburg plays both sides of a record, there are 200 songs that Kelly Anne has searched for and curated, ranging from Motown to soul, David Bowie to Blondie, Prince to Patsy Cline. 

By the front of the bar, a former phone booth that was converted into a photo booth takes some cool black-and-white picture strips. (Take some pics with your date: I can see it becoming a kissing booth.)

The kitchen has been redone and looks lighter and airier—it’s freshly tiled and now has a wood pass, while the grotty hallway to the bathrooms now transports you to what feels like a 1930s supper club, with cork flooring in a black-and-red diamond pattern and more mahogany paneling, with retro WC lights they actually made.

Kelly Anne designed the women’s bathroom with a dark boudoir sensibility, featuring floral wallpaper, illustrations and paintings of nudes, a dusty pink vintage sink, and a black toilette. And then there are all the updates you don’t see, like the stripped and re-gasketed refrigerator doors, the soundsystem, the wiring, the list goes on. The team has been working so hard for months—there is so much craft and consideration behind every detail, and feels so personal. The bar is a beaut, a true labor of love.

As for the cocktail program, Jon is working on a super-simple menu of beautifully crafted drinks—he says if people want to know more, they can ask, or they can order off-menu and go deep, but he doesn’t want a long drink list with complicated ingredients and techniques (even though the drinks will be technique-driven). There will be around 11 cocktails (spanning Martinis, highballs, classics, house drinks, and a coffee drink), with clear and pronounced flavors yet elegant simplicity. They are also striving to make them affordable, but if you want something special to splash out on, you can find that, too.

Guests of our preview party for tablehopper’s 20th anniversary got a sneak peek of their Fords gin and Charbay vodka Martinis shaken with ice shards, with touches like a chilled glass and a sidecar—it should remind you of the House of Prime Rib Martini service. (As for all those olives, we were just having fun.)

Guests went pazzo for the Caprese Highball, which Jon said is inspired by nostalgia for his Italian grandpa’s garden. It was like a sparkling, savory kiss of late summer, with olive oil–washed Fords gin, heirloom tomato water, basil, lemon, and then force carbonated (see, there’s a lot of hidden technique).

Another star item my guests got a preview of was the upcoming chophouse steak sandwich, which their son, chef Giovanni Gasparini, has been workshopping with the family for months. He dry-brines New York steaks from Golden Gate Meat Company for a day, and cooks the pepper-crusted steak to medium, and then thinly slices it. If the sandwich makes you think of HOPR leftovers, it’s because there’s an herby creamed spinach sauce in there, whipped with ricotta, Parmesan, garlic, and white wine. There’s also some acidity from sweet pickled red onion and the peppery kick of arugula, all nestled in a ciabatta roll from Starter Bakery. Enjoy that bad boy with a Martini and you’re set. Just wait until you see the sandwich served on vintage-style plates that say 15 Romolo along the rim in green. It all feels so classic and timeless.

Since Giovanni worked in a Basque restaurant (Ansots) in Boise—it’s from the Ansotegui Inchausti family, which has been a part of the Idaho Basque scene for over a century—he’s developing some leek and bacalao croquettes, and there will be a presa pork sandwich, plus some snacky bites, like gildas. He’s making a Basque spin on a filet-o-fish by using beer-battered bacalao, but will be keeping it old-school with American cheese and tartar sauce. 

Meatballs are a 15 Romolo menu standard, and since the Gasparini and Lindgren families have a lot of history, Giovanni shares the latest version is inspired by the A16 recipe for their slow-braised meatballs, but will have a Basque spin by being made with lamb (with some pork fat).

I’m looking forward to trying his caramelized eggplant with roasted pine nuts, walnuts, and sun-dried tomatoes over arugula with a balsamic glaze, inspired by a dish he had in Barcelona. There will be other seasonal vegetable dishes—like stuffed zucchini blossoms in the summer—and a couple salads, too. Since Romolo is such a great date spot, you’ll find small bites to share, so couples can enjoy more than a drink or two.

Something that is really important to the Gasparinis is hospitality—Kelly Anne says they want to bury their guests in hospitality! We definitely got a taste of that at my party—everything was made and served with such care and warmth, with some snazzy flourishes and next-level presentations that made you feel like you were in a venue that has been around for decades, even if your bartender was young enough to be your kid. Good North Beach bars are like that: you’ll see different generations of customers in a bar, and it helps give them character. 

In one of our many conversations, Jon notes that North Beach is analog, and the opposite of tech and AI. He knows the neighborhood well—not only has he operated the bar there for almost 30 years, but he lived in North Beach for a long time, and knows the history, people, and its different eras. He can’t even count how many people swing by to see how it’s coming along. And now, with his wife Kelly Anne, they’re launching a new era for this treasure of a bar, built upon its solid roots, but with some strong new branches to climb and fruits to eat (and frosty Martinis to drink). 🍸

Stand by for an early October opening. I’ll definitely keep you posted on pre-opening details. 15 Romolo Pl. at Broadway.

the starlet

what’s cookin’

Howdy, hopper friends! Happy Friday. I hope the misty Fogust wind hasn’t blown you away—I just keep reminding myself that September and Rocktober are coming soon with our best weather (but I’m sad peaches are leaving us early this year, wah). 

I have also been hanging on for the return of the Despacio sound system at Portola Music Festival the last weekend of September (kicking off with Despacio Extravaganza, a special Friday night party to celebrate Portola’s fifth anniversary!). Friends who love music: I really hope to see you on the dance floor—I will be in that tent from the very first song they play to the very last. Freaks only! You can read my writeup about last year’s Despacio at Portola, which was so life changing that I chased it to Miami a month later. (Here’s the proof: a pic of yours truly having the time of her life at Despacio at iii Points in Miami last October.) AND: Soulwax also just announced a Thursday night—September 24th—pre-Portola-party show at the Regency; the last time I saw them perform there in 2018 with their full setup was so sick! Rest up, buckle up.

Another thing to strap in for: as many of you longtime subscribers already know, this is tablehopper’s 20th anniversary year (mamma mia), and I’m finally mustering the energy and carving out the time to kick off a series of small celebrations over the coming months. Unfortunately, I just don’t have the bandwidth to produce a big bodacious PARTAY on the scale of Bohemian Sunday at the Savoy Tivoli a couple years ago, but we’ll have some quality time together at a variety of intimate tablehopper cocktail parties, special dinners, happy hours, brunches, and more. I look forward to clinking glasses with you! 🥂 There will be bubbles (that should be the title of my memoir!). Only supporting subscribers (and awesome patrons and super patrons) will be able to get tickets to these soirées! Stay tuned!

If you (or a brand or company or product you work with) would like to be involved as an event partner or sponsor/donor/supporter/underwriter, please get in touch! There are a bunch of opportunities and ways we can work together. Thank you for supporting tablehopper’s 20th anniversary event series!

There’s much more to say about my 20th, but first, this bizzee lady has work to do. I hope you enjoy today’s issue: I hit up a couple new places this past week offering affordable dining, from khao mun gai to katsu.

In fried chicken we trust. XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Calling All Khao Mun Gai Fans: Here’s Where to Find Some Really Delicious Thai Chicken Rice 

After looking at the hunger-inducing pictures of the khao mun gai (Thai chicken rice) at the new Ruay Mitr (the name means “prosperous friends”) on the edge of Nob Hill and Chinatown, I asked tablehopper summer intern Francesca Gasparini to please write it up in an opening report. But, I couldn’t stop thinking about it, so I headed over for dinner with a friend to check it out this past week (I love KMG). 

And then there’s the damn AI art on the walls, with AI-generated street scenes and posters for the business, which feel at odds with the homestyle food and intention of this place. Faux nostalgia is so dystopian—they should just put some vintage Thai beer posters up and call it a day. Heck, I would prefer bare walls to retro AI slop. Please make it stop. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.

And so, to not render Francesca’s work in vain, here’s what she wrote about the new shop:

Ruay Mitr prides itself on perfectly prepared, tender chicken, fragrant rice, comforting broth and homemade sauces. Inspired by neighborhood chicken and rice shops common in Thailand, the restaurant offers just a handful of dishes prepared using traditional Thai recipes and fresh ingredients to infuse the meat with flavor. There are a few variations of the dish you can choose from—including poached, fried, or braised chicken with curry—yet their menu extends past just the one dish. 

Traditional Thai chicken and rice shops are rooted in flavorful meat served over khao mun (fragrant rice), and extend to include crispy pork belly, barbecued pork, roast duck, and slow-braised pork, among others. To honor this same practice, Ruay Mitr’s menu also features barbecued pork and crispy pork belly. In addition to their meat and rice dishes, the shop rounds out their menu with a selection of traditional appetizers (the crispy curried samosas and crab wontons sound divine) and mango sticky rice and fried bananas for dessert. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.

A Casual Place for Japanese-Korean Katsu Plates (and More) Opens in Anza Vista

Cinderella Bakery Opens a Second Location on 24th Street This Week

The project delays are over: according to a post on Instagram, Cinderella Bakery (a family-owned Russian bakery that has been in Inner Richmond since 1953!) will be opening their second location in the former La Victoria on 24th Street in the Mission on Friday August 28th. (I wrote about this project back in February 2025, so it’s good to see it come to fruition.)

Bring on the pelmeni in broth (perfect for Fogust), pirogi, piroshki, and all their pastries. Owners Mike and Marika Fishman are looking forward to being part of the Calle 24 community. I’ll get more details together for an upcoming column, but I just wanted to share the good news for now. 2937 24th St. at Alabama.

Ugh! Hideous Vandals Broke Most of the Many Windows at Boogaloos in the Mission 

What the actual hell. A tablehopper reader wrote in with some terrible news: “Someone broke all the windows at Boogaloos! It didn’t look like anything was stolen, but someone had knocked a hole in all 8(?) front-facing windows. It’s really terrible.” Indeed. My friend who has his shop nearby told me most of the big windows were boarded up, and it’s going to be a costly repair job. For a corner location known for its big windows, it’s so disheartening to see.

I reached out for more information and clarification on how we can help, and spoke with one of the owners, Antonio Luna, who took over the business with his wife, Karla Garcia, in April 2025. He said it happened sometime on Monday night (August 17th), and the SFPD called him super early on Tuesday morning (at 4:15am) to let him know. Boogaloos was the only place hit. It looks like 12 windows will need to be replaced, which is estimated to cost more than $55K. Fortunately, insurance is going to cover it (after they pay their deductible), but the restaurant had to close for two days to clean up the mess, and business is slow. If you can please ignore the boarded-up windows and go visit them for brunch this weekend, or in the coming month, it would really help them out.

Of course, someone has already tagged the plywood. Is there an artist/muralist who can help make the plywood look better until the windows are replaced? It will keep things from looking so rundown (they need all the customers they can get). You can call the restaurant and ask for Antonio.

Luna said this was the third time someone has broken a window at Boogaloos since they took over—the most recent time was just two weeks ago, and the vandals tried to steal their espresso machine. He paid to replace the window out of his pocket ($1,500). Here’s hoping The City can step in and help—this Mission brunch spot has been holding down the sunny corner of 22nd and Valencia since 1994. 3296 22nd St. at Valencia.

Noe Valley Updates: Alice’s Restaurant Is Closing, Fresca 2.0 Is Opening

According to this post on Threads, “After 30 years Alice’s in Noe Valley is closing! 😩 Sad to see this neighborhood Chinese neighborhood gone.” Sharon and James Sung opened Alice’s Restaurant in 1996, which is known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes, like smoked pork, Alice’s spicy eggplant, and orange chicken, and this neighborhood spot is also popular for its great lunch special. I called and got the word that the couple is retiring—the last day of business is August 31st.

I guess customers will be able to head over to the nearby and Sung family–owned Eric’s Restaurant (Kim Dang and Tony Sung), which is also known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes (it opened in 1991). But, alas, we will no longer be able to compare who makes a better General Tso’s chicken. 1599 Sanchez St. at 29th St.

You can read this story in SFGATE about the return of Fresca (one of SF’s first Peruvian restaurants) to Noe Valley, thanks to the next generation of the Calvo-Perez family business. The opening is set for Monday August 24th, starting at 4pm, and reservations are open now. Follow along for updates here. 3945 24th St. at Sanchez.

the lush

Getting Cinched Up

Just a heads-up that The Cinch Saloon will be closing temporarily for renovations starting Monday September 21st. According to the sign in their window: “We will keep you posted on social media as the reopening date becomes available, sometime around mid-October. Thank you for your patience during that time!” 

The Friday before the closure (September 18th) will be a wild one: the illustrious Anna Conda is coming back to town and holding a Charlie Horse reunion, the rock ’n’ roll drag show that was always wild! From the flyer: “The old gang is getting back together. A little older but clearly none the wiser! Anna Conda welcomes to the stage once more: Monistat, Miss Nix, Lucy Borden, Mutha Chucka, Dizzy Blank, Juanita Fajita, Kegel Kater, Downy, Turleen, Sandy Shorts, Noseeum, and Sheena Rose. With the Marcy Playground Minute with Miss Chief at 11pm. DJ Dirty Knees. Guest Bartender Michael Brown. Names names names, Darling. Zimmerframe valet at the door. FRIDAY SEPT 18TH. SHOW AT MIDNIGHT!” (And, psssst, it’s Glendon’s birthday that night!) 1723 Polk St. at Washington.

Be SF Proud, Drink Pisco

By Francesca Gasparini

San Francisco’s trademark cocktail just got its own week of valor. From August 21st–28th, local bars will be taking part in Pisco Punch Week, a time to celebrate the ingenious recipe created right here in The City, while shedding light on its namesake Peruvian spirit.

Pisco punch was created in the mid-1800s at the Bank Exchange Saloon, a famed Gold Rush bar, by bartender and owner Duncan Nicol. The drink is built around a few key ingredients: Peruvian Italia pisco, pineapple gum syrup, and fresh lemon juice. While the recipe was supposed to remain a secret, many were quick to reinvent the drink due to its immediate popularity. Loved for its tropical, refreshing taste with a discreet yet potent dose of alcohol, pisco punch became known as “lemonade that kicks like a mule” (according to the Pisco Punch Week website). Prohibition snuffed out much of the pisco punch craze, but BarSol (pisco producer and host of Pisco Punch Week) hopes to reinvigorate San Franciscans’ appreciation for this local cocktail through this event.

Throughout the week, participating bars—including Aziza, Bar Esper, Bar Sprezzatura, Elixir, High Horse, Hog Island, Kaiyo, La Mar, Lillie Coit, Novela, Old Ship, Per Diem, San Francisco Historium, and Tiya—will be serving original cocktails made using BarSol pisco, in addition to traditional pisco punch.

Pisco punch is not only a relic of San Francisco’s culinary legacy, but also an introduction to the rich history of the spirit. BarSol prides itself on preserving the same century-old technique it uses to distill fresh wines fermented exclusively from pisco grapes harvested in the Southern Valley of Ica and distilled at Bodega San Isidro. Salud!

the archivist

The Flatiron That Refuses to Fall

By Francesca Gasparini

Having withstood earthquakes, organized crime, ever-changing businesses, and Hollywood’s greatest stars, the famed Sentinel Building (otherwise known as Columbus Tower) stands steadfast in the narrow sliver before the intersection of Kearny Street and Columbus Avenue. This fabulous flatiron building catches the eye of everyone in North Beach with its bright green patina and countless bay windows. 

Subscribe to tablehopper and support our love for San Francisco. 🥂

what’s cookin’

Well hellllllloooooo Fogust. Here we are. At least I just finished having my closet painted a violet-tinged 80’s fuchsia that will have me thinking pink on the gray days. I also had my bathroom painted yesterday (a pinky lavender that is evocative of Easter, hence the paint’s precious name: Bunny Nose Pink), so things have been a bit chaotic over here at Hopper HQ, but visually uplifting, that’s for sure. Let’s just say focusing on writing while a couple chatty and interesting painters are five feet away from you was not really conducive to finishing my column yesterday, ha. And now, I need to put all my caftans back into my new Pinky Benson hawt box closet, so let’s get to the news.

But first: please help support and signal boost this fundraiser to help rebuild and reopen the Tenderloin Museum after suffering major water damage. They have uninsured recovery needs, and in this city of obscene wealth, we need to set them up with more than the fundraiser’s current total of $5,733 in donations to ensure the museum’s stable future. As a good friend wrote to me: “A vital space for sharing the stories of this unparalleled neighborhood, the TLM is an under appreciated SF treasure that needs our support. Please donate if you can, and share with your networks. Any amount helps.” You can read and share this post on Instagram as well, thank you.

Have a fun weekend: there’s a lot going on, like the SF Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival on Saturday (and you can shake off those carbs to The Juan MacLean, who is playing at Public Works that night!), and Sunday is all about Dirty Martini Frappés, plus even more tasty events below.

See you next week. Think best thoughts for our Big Sur friends.

With love,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Pasta Supply Co Is Coming to Cole Valley, and You Can Help Them Open By Snagging One of Their Weekly Pasta Plans

A couple weeks ago, supporting subscribers got the scoop first that the next location of Pasta Supply Co is coming to Cole Valley, opening in the former Peet’s Coffee (once Tully’s Coffee, and Spinelli Coffee Company before that). Founder Anthony Strong, who has lived in the neighborhood for 12 years, and his wife, Katherine Altonaga, are gunning for a fall opening (think October). Strong says he’s hopeful that people taking the N Judah home will be inspired to jump off and stop by to grab something for dinner before making their way to their final destination in the Sunset. (Always thinking, that one.)

This will be the third PSC shop in three years, and they continue to pride themselves on staying small (but mighty)—this location should have 26 seats, plus sidewalk seats, too. The retail setup will be the same as the other two spots in the Inner Richmond and the Mission, but they’ll be adding coffee-rubbed porchetta on their ciabatta here as a cute nod to the former Spinelli’s. 

Something else new they’re trying is to crowdsource/crowdfund the project themselves instead of paying one of the existing platforms their fees (or getting investors, or a loan, and starting the venture in debt). Here’s where things get fun: 200 subscribers can buy the Pasta for a Year plan for $550, and once a week, you can take home one pasta per week for 52 weeks (from the crab + sriracha rangooni to an extruded pasta, you’ll have over 30 to choose from). 

If you’re feeling really pazzo—like a certified pasta freak—there’s the Pasta for Life plan, which is $4K and limited to 100 subscribers. Strong explains it’s like getting the PSC employee discount by paying up front, and what’s super cool is you don’t need to wait for Cole Valley to open: the plans are redeemable now at any and all of their locations. You know what to do! 919 Cole St. at Carl.

Upcoming SF Projects from the Friends and Family Team and The Mushroom

Your Presidio Picnic Just Got Reimagined: The Mess Hall Opens August 15th

By Francesca Gasparini

There’s nothing like stopping your run halfway through to get a steaming plate of crispy Korean fried chicken. Good news for picnic-goers and deeply discouraging news for the exercise-focussed crew: your favorite running path just got a tantalizing food hall right in the center of it. Consider your cardio officially compromised. 

The Presidio’s very own Mess Hall will open in Tunnel Tops Park this Friday August 15th, and is ready to lure in all passersby with its all-day offerings. Incorporated into the Presidio National Park, this new food hall brings three restaurants, a cocktail bar, café, and specialty food market to Tunnel Tops. The Mess Hall’s 6,200-square-foot space offers dinner with a view, with sprawling vistas of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz Island, and the Palace of Fine Arts. The building was originally constructed in 1897 as part of the Presidio’s historic military campus, but has been newly renovated into a modern communal space designed by Studio KDA and built by ACI.

The Mess Hall’s six different concepts were thoughtfully selected by consulting chef Peter Serpico (of the Momofuku Group and STARR Restaurants) and founding partner and director of operations Nate Leonard. They aimed to choose options that were casual, delicious, and could be served all day.

The three featured restaurants include Dayboat Seafood, serving up oysters, shrimp cocktail, crudo, clam chowder, and hand rolls; Boda, a Korean-Japanese street-food concept offering Korean fried chicken, housemade banchan, kimchi fried rice, and mandu (dumplings); and, finally, Breadwinner, supplying breakfast sandwiches, smashburgers, salads, and subs.

For what to expect from the coffee bar, get excited for Wrecking Ball beans and baked goods from James Beard Award–nominated Breadbelly, all ready to go every morning by 7am. 

The bar will display a full beverage program featuring house-crafted cocktails alongside local beer and wine to be enjoyed on the bridge-facing patio and wraparound deck. Aiming to transform this space into a neighborhood staple, the Mess Hall will also have a specialty market stocked with prepared grab-and-go food, bottled beverages, cheeses, and picnic essentials. They also plan to collaborate with local chefs and restaurants for seasonal pop-ups, such as seafood boils and smashburger cookouts on the Tunnel Tops outdoor grills. Operating hours will be Mon–Thu 7am–8pm; open Fri–Sun 7am–10pm. 201 Halleck St. at French. 

A Couple More New Casual Stops in Flava Town

By Francesca Gasparini

San Francisco summer is bringing new restaurants popping up left and right, so buckle up, because we have news of even more openings to deliver.

Nightbird Knows How to Celebrate a 10-Year Anniversary: With 10 Fun and Super-Tasty Events

Big congrats to chef Kim Alter and Ron Boyd, who are celebrating 10 years of Nightbird! Of course, they’re doing it in style, with 10 events to commemorate each year of business (which is like dog years, amirite?). They kick things off this Wednesday August 12th, with the redux of PrimeBird, their modern homage to House of Prime Rib (using Flannery Beef, with smoked wagyu bone marrow hollandaise that you dunk the truffle and cheddar Yorkshire pudding into, uh huh!). You get three courses for $85 (exclusive of tax, 18% service charge, and SF mandate 6%), plus there are some supplements (they’re talking about adding a seared New York steak this season). It all goes down in Nightjar, their PDR flanking Nightbird. You can book your table on intermittent Tuesday–Friday nights (5pm–8:30pm) through September. 334 Gough St. at Linden.

And then this Thursday August 13th, the beef parade continues with the return of Nightburger, their decadent daytime burger pop-up, which you may recall from the early days of the pandemic. They’ll be serving their double cheeseburger (with a cheese skirt and their special 138 sauce), their fried chicken sandwich (made with chicken marinated in buttermilk and shio koji, served with slaw, fried onions, and pepperoncini on a Kaiser roll—with fried chicken skin!), waffle fries, and fun “soda jerk” cocktails inside the Linden Room; you can sit down in the bar or get your order to go from 2pm–8pm. 292 Linden St. at Gough.

Sandwich fanatics: you don’t want to miss C Squared (as in See You Next Tuesday) on Monday August 24th, Kim’s homage to the rowdy The Wieners Circle in Chicago (she lived in Chi-Town for a year). Standing in for the notoriously hostile staff will be Sister Roma slinging barbs and insults. On the menu:

12pm to sell out. 334 Gough St. at Linden.

More Anniversaries and Shindigs

A fellow biz celebrating their 20th anniversary this year is The Front Porch, and they’re throwing a 20th buffet and boil this Saturday August 15th. There will be a big-ass crawfish boil, a buffet of fried chicken, mac and cheese, rice and beans, cornbread, and coleslaw for $50 (reserve your ticket here). There will also be a second line performance from MJ’s Brass Boppers, flash tattoos, and good times rollin’. 2pm–5pm.

Although Saturday August 15th is officially Ferragosto (Italy’s treasured summer holiday), Delfina will be hosting their second annual Ferragosto aperitivo party on Tuesday August 18th, with spirits and specialty cocktails from sponsor Bordiga, Italian wines from Oliver McCrum, frosé, and complimentary snacks inspired by beachy good vibes. 5pm–6:30pm.

Closures Around the Bay

Some unfortunate closures include Chicken Fried Palace in the former WesBurger ’N’ More in the Mission (read more in these pieces by The SF Standard and SFGATE); Superprime Steakhouse was priced out by their landlord in SoMa (via The SF Standard); longtime Russian Hill restaurant Hyde Street Seafood House and Raw Bar has closed; and over in Old Oakland, Horn Barbecue has closed their last location (via Berkeley Eats and SF Chronicle).

the sponsor

Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!

A few weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram, but you only have until this Saturday to enter to win!

How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it. 

For inspo, here are a couple of my entries!

One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!

Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!

And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)

Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅

the socialite

Raise Your Glass at the Toast & Taste Gala: City of Magic

By Francesca Gasparini

Mark your calendars for the evening of Tuesday August 18th, for a night of fantastic food, exceptional drinks, and a cause worth raising a glass to at San Francisco Private Dining Venues’ (SFPDV) ninth annual Toast & Taste gala. SFPDV is gathering 40 of San Francisco’s top restaurants, including A16, Acquerello, Boulevard, Copra, Harris’ Restaurant, Merkado, Original Joe’s, Perbacco, and Spruce, to create a night full of delectable offerings for a worthy cause. The event will be hosted at the snazzy Chotto Matte.

100 percent of proceeds from this event will go toward Compass Family Services, an organization devoted to aiding families experiencing homelessness. This gala has raised over $428,000 in past years to help parents and children who are struggling to stay afloat. Compass Family Services has been in operation for more than 100 years, and has delivered lasting stability to thousands of families (11,000 individuals last year alone!). Join SFPDV for a night to give back to the community by doing what we do best.

Tickets are on sale now. If you purchase your ticket online, general admission will ring in at $150, or purchase at the door the night of the 18th for $175. 6pm—9pm. 50 O’Farrell St. at Stockton.

the matchmaker

PIZZA COOK / PIZZAIOLO — FULL TIME
Tommaso’s | North Beach, San Francisco

Tommaso’s is looking for an experienced Pizzaiolo/Pizza Cook to join our kitchen team. We are a 90-year-old San Francisco institution known for our traditional pizza and original wood-burning oven. We’re looking for someone who understands dough, respects the craft, and can execute consistently during a busy service. You should have:

• 3+ years professional pizza experience
• Strong knowledge of dough, fermentation, stretching, and pizza preparation
• Wood-burning oven experience strongly preferred
• Ability to work quickly while maintaining quality and consistency
• Excellent timing and attention to detail
• Reliable, punctual, honest, and hardworking
• Strong communication and a team-first attitude
• Ability to lift and carry 50+ lbs
• Experience prepping and maintaining a professional pizza station
• Wednesday–Sunday availability
• Bilingual English/Spanish is a plus

This is a hands-on position for someone who takes pride in their craft and wants to be part of a true San Francisco culinary institution. Please apply with your resume to Mo@Tommasos.com, and tell us about your pizza experience, dough knowledge, and wood-fired oven experience.

the starlet

It’s the perfect time to subscribe to tablehopper. Trust me. Fun things are coming. 🥂

what’s cookin’

Howdy, friends. I’m trying to get this column back on its regular schedule of going out earlier in the week, wish me luck. Last night, I was invited to an industry screening of “Tony” before its theatrical release this Friday August 5th (thank you, Liam Mayclem, for the invite, and OpenTable for hosting). I know, it’s a daunting concept to even think of making a film about the monolithic Anthony Bourdain, but director Matt Johnson (and actor Dominic Sessa from “The Holdovers”)...

More icons: I’m so pleased to see Jeanette Etheredge get her flowers in a helluva colorful NYT obituary full of stories and quotes and keen observations—I was a little concerned her passing was going to remain a local story, but I’m glad the indelible mark she left on our city and the importance of her rare kind of hospitality and unique life finally got picked up and celebrated in the Old Gray Lady.

Since I hit pause on reporting on a lot of news while I was in Tahoe, I have a bunch of stories and catch-up links and blurbs for you today. Over 5,200 words tonight, people. Whew. It’s kind of wild to see how much is happening right now—so many upcoming openings and cafés and bakeries, buckle up. Thanks to summer intern Francesca Gasparini for helping me wrangle all these updates!

Let’s jump in.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

An Update on Tommaso’s (Including Upcoming Suppers to Help Support the Restaurant)

After writing about the tough times over at Tommaso’s in North Beach a couple weeks ago, I followed up with owner Mo Donegan for an update on how things are going. First, she wanted to say thanks to so many of you for all the generosity you showed in your donations to the 91-year-old restaurant’s GoFundMe (I told her I saw a bunch of subscriber names in the list of donations—you’re the best).

She mentioned a couple generous angels swooped in to loan her the money to cover her back rent and avoid eviction (as a loan, not a gift, as reported by the SF Chronicle, which caused the GoFundMe donations to slow down). So, if you feel like kicking in some dough to help her pay back the loans and get her head above water, that would be amazing. Keep it flowin’.

Donegan said business has been on the upswing since the announcement that the iconic restaurant was struggling, so she appreciates everyone showing up, but, she has been short-staffed, so she wants to thank everyone for their patience as she makes some new hires (and her host returns from vacation).

I reached out holding a tablehopper supper later this fall, so stand by on that, but in the meantime, her good friend Barbie is hosting two dinners—The Tommaso’s Family Table—to help raise funds on Tuesday August 11th and 18th, with seatings available at 5:30pm and 8pm. The supper will include an antipasto plate of Italian cured meats, marinated vegetables, and olives, as well as a Caesar salad and garlic bread. The family-style entrées will include their lasagna, eggplant Parmigiana, chicken piccata, and a selection of Tommaso’s classic, wood-fired pizzas, with mini chocolate cannoli for dessert. Pricing is $200 per head, all-inclusive, with wine! (If you want to donate wine for the event, or BYOB, you can do that.) Contact Tommasospartyreso@gmail.com with your preferred day, time (Tuesday August 11th or 18th, with seatings at 5:30pm and 8pm), and group size, and if you have any questions. 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

Two More Calls for Support, from Gumbo Social and Reem’s Mission

In addition to our dear Tommaso’s, there are a couple other SF restaurants that could use our support. Chef-owner Dontaye Ball of Gumbo Social has temporarily closed his three-year-old Bayview restaurant for six weeks (until August 17th) so he could upgrade equipment (including installing a new commercial oven), strengthen operations, allow the team to rest, and do some R&D for the next chapter.

Ball launched a GoFundMe to fund a pilot evening takeout window so they can offer Bayview a dinner option from 6pm–10pm. Funds will go toward installing a service door, security cameras, and the staffing needed to run it safely. 

Café Mélange, Gumbo Social’s sister restaurant in Civic Center, will remain open and serves gumbo if you need a fix.

More ways to support: book Gumbo Social for catering! Visit their booth at Outside Lands (they’ll be serving their Louisiana-style chicken and sausage gumbo, vegan gumbo, fried fish filet sandwiches, Cajun fries, and strawberry-basil lemonade). And, get a ticket to Gumbo Social’s 6th Annual All-You-Can-Eat Seafood Boil on Sunday August 23rd to celebrate Mr. Gumbo’s birthday. Your ticket ($49.99) includes unlimited servings of shrimp, smoked sausage, baby potatoes, sweet corn, and all the buttery Old Bay and Cajun goodness you can handle from 12pm–2pm (or until they sell out). 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.

And this is such a bummer: after suffering significant damage from a car crashing into the storefront of Reem’s Mission in a hit-and-run on the night of June 10th, the team has made the challenging decision to close for two months, starting this past Sunday August 2nd. In a recent post, they share: “Initial estimates put the cost of repairs at almost $200,000 and, because foundational damage may have been done to the building, the work may require pulling permits from the city, which could add up to six weeks to the timeline. We hope insurance will cover costs, but we have yet to hear a definitive response regarding what they will cover.

“We hoped we could keep some of our team working and make ends meet by continuing to offer takeout, delivery, and catering while we get the repairs done, but it’s simply not enough. In an industry with skyrocketing costs and razor-thin margins, we simply do not have the cash reserves to float us during this time.” If you’re able to support, please donate to their GoFundMe. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St.

Reem’s will also be at Outside Lands, teaming up with the American Lamb Board to bring back their La Gringa lamb quesabirria wrap, as well as serving Arab party fries and chocolate chip cookies. They’re also collaborating with Lion Dance Cafe on a vegan sambal tomat man’oushe. And, you can go visit the new Reem’s Jack London Square, a worker-owned café and flagship bakery in Oakland (at 85 Webster Street).

Let’s Get Baked: So Many New Bakeries Are Coming, Including a New Location of Maison Nico

Tartine is going to open a fourth location in San Francisco, a bakery in a former CVS at California and Sansome. The SF Chronicle reports the new Financial District location will actually be serving more than pastries and coffee, bringing breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s a significant buildout, so stand by for timing in 2027. 351 California St. at Sansome.

Angelica Nulud and Paul Faraon of Filipino pastry popup La Kalidád have a location for their café-bakery: 680 A 2nd Street in South Beach (previously Birdbox). They plan to open in the fall, in time for holiday pie orders. 680 A 2nd St. at Townsend. [Via SF Chronicle]

Something to diminish some of the sads over Shuggie’s closing is the news of who’s going in: Florecita Panaderia, the Mexican American bakery from owners Ximena and Jared Williams. They’re vacating their current Mission location, and plan to start serving their California-style conchas (and more) in mid-September. The SF Standard mentions they’re going to partner with a Bay Area coffee brand to handle coffee service in the second dining room, and will invite chefs to pop up and offer savory items as well. Stand by for more. 3349 23rd St. at Bartlett.

New Pastries Coming to Polk as Saturbake Goes Permanent

By Francesca Gasparini

Coming this fall is Lorella, a new bakery concept from chef-owner Melissa Loar and chef-partner Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia. What started as Saturbake, a recurring pop-up at Octavia, has now gained permanent footing and plans to deliver seasonal pastries, fresh loaves, elevated desserts, and coffee to Russian Hill.

Cawfee Tawk: Exciting New Openings, Including SF’s First Café Highlighting Speciality Coffee from India

When I returned from Tahoe a couple weekends back, I swung by the upcoming Le Mil’s Coffee, which was getting close to soft opening in the space under Funky Door Yoga on Polk Street. I had reached out a few weeks ago for more info, but hadn’t heard back, so I was lucky with my in-person visit timing and got to meet one of the owners, Milana Ram (her husband and co-owner is Himanshu Bhaisare).

The airy space was looking great, with Modbar espresso machines set in a custom bar top with resin poured to look like the rainbow on their branding, comfortable chairs that will invite you to linger (plus a mezzanine with even more seating), and an eye-catching ceiling installation made of baskets. Ram was busy meeting with her plant consultant, but she let me buy a bag of their Chikka espresso blend with shade-grown, hand-picked, and sun-dried Arabica and Robusta beans sourced from her fifth-generation family farm in Navilumane Estate in Chikmagalur (in Karnataka in southwestern India). Le Mil roasts their coffee in small batches every two weeks in Berkeley (the Chikka was smooth, creamy, and balanced, with an extra boost of caffeine—I’ll take it!).

There is much more to Le Mil’s story, which you can read in these features in the SF Chronicle and SFGATE, and I look forward to returning to the café very soon to try some of their specialty coffee drinks. They’re having their soft opening right now, and the grand opening is Saturday August 15th, on India’s Independence Day. Here’s to San Francisco’s first café dedicated to specialty coffee from India! Keep track of their updates and hours here. 1330 Polk St. at Austin (near Pine).

Fuel Up for Your Next Adventure at Double Black

By Francesca Gasparini

Don’t Tell Your Cardiologist! Tacos El Patrón Is Coming to the Fillmore District

By Francesca Gasparini

If you like Tijuana-style quesabirria, then you likely know and love Tacos El Patrón. Lucky for me, my first-ever quesabirria experience was there, and ever since, the bar has been set exceptionally high. So, I know I’m not the only one who is thrilled with the news (via SF Business Times) that the Bay Area taquería is opening its fourth location on Fillmore Street in the former home of Scott’s Chowder House, making this the largest Tacos El Patrón location yet.

Tacos El Patrón gained stardom thanks to its standout quesabirria: tacos grilled to perfection with crispy, cheese-latticed edges, stuffed with slow-braised, shredded beef, and served with a rich, deeply flavorful consomé for dipping. Other menu items—like its grilled meat tacos and burritos—showcase owner Alberto Pineda and his wife Mariana Reza’s commitment to serving authentic Mexican flavors using family recipes and high-quality ingredients. 

This new location should be opening in coming weeks, and will be welcoming back tacos de guisado: traditional homestyle Mexican stews (like chile verde and tinga de pollo), a specialty that was once the concept of their past brick-and-mortar, Los Guisados Del Patrón on S. Van Ness Avenue. 1325 Fillmore St. at Eddy.

Even More Expansions Around Town

Better Late Than Never: Jollibee Finally Opened Their Downtown Location

East Bay Updates: Bring on the Hoagies and Injera and More

Enssaro just relocated into its new space in Rockridge after 20 years in Oakland’s Adams Point neighborhood. The family-run Ethiopian restaurant bought a permanent home on College Avenue to pass down to future generations. The mother-daughter-son Tamirue family team enlisted Ethiopian designer Kalu Gebreyohannes-Royster of Liyu Designs to create a space that feels “unmistakably Ethiopian.” The owners ensure that the new location preserves everything longtime patrons love about the restaurant, as well as adding a redesigned bar and cocktail program that you can enjoy on the inviting open-air patio. Operating hours are Mon–Fri 5pm–10pm and Sat–Sun 11am–10pm. 5897 College Ave. at Chabot, Oakland. -FG

While scrolling through Facebook last week, I noticed my friend Mo Hodges (previously Benjamin Cooper) announced a new project: Hoagie’s World of Hoagies coming to Berkeley. Suh-weet! The Philly native will be serving Italian hoagies, cheesesteaks, and roast pork with broccoli rabe and provolone, all on Amoroso’s rolls. You can read about it in this post on Berkeley Eats. The late August opening can’t come soon enough. 2618 Telegraph Ave. at Carleton, Berkeley.

Congrats to chef-owner Geoff Davis of Burdell, who will be opening his wood-fired, steak-centric concept, Uncles, in 2027 in the Wood Tavern location (which is closing after 20 years at the end of this year). The style will be more approachable instead of special-occasion steak, with a creative and seasonal spin on classic steakhouse sides and sauces; Uncles will also be open for lunch, dinner, and brunch. You can read more in this piece in Food & Wine and the SF Chronicle. 6317 College Ave. at 63rd St., Oakland.

the sponsor

Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!

A couple weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram.

How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it. 

One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!

Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!

And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)

Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅

the socialite

Outside Lands Is This Weekend—Whatcha Gonna Eat?

It’s already so unbelievable that August is here, and it’s even more bonkers that Outside Lands is this weekend (August 7th–9th). I’m sad to sit this year out, but such is life. OSL food curator Tanya Kollar has done another bang-up job with the Taste of the Bay Area food lineup, so I thought I’d point out a few bites that would be top of my list if I was going. 

I’ve already mentioned Gumbo Social and Reem’s (with Lion Dance Cafe) above, and did you see that Caché is serving ham and cheese galettes (made with buckwheat)? New to the lineup: Mi Comedor (a La Cocina entrepreneur) will have pineapple al pastor chicken wings; Meski is making Dominican braised chicken sambusas...

Subscribe to tablehopper and live your best SF life. 🙌

what’s cookin’

Hey, pals. How’re ya doin’ with the World Cup withdrawals? Up here in Tahoma (aka Stayhoma), the budding friendship between Fortuna and Chip continues to entertain me, and the joy of cooking summer produce on a grill cannot be understated—damn, I love having a grill. Riding my Mom’s vintage bike to the beach for my late afternoon dip is my favorite moment—it feels so good to be back in the saddle, and I’m glad my jenky knee isn’t acting up. 

One unfortunate thing is I have to make an unexpected early return to SF, so with my now-limited time up here to decompress, I’m keeping today’s column short on news (but long on history—wait until you read the archivist!).

Thanks for understanding this week’s summer hours: my soul needs more lake time, and less laptop time. (And the Wi-Fi keeps cutting out, so I’ll take it as a sign.) See you next week!

Chirp!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Get Fired Up for the Opening of SAAM, Bringing Bold Thai Dishes from a Lauded Thai Chef with a Local Spin and Team

It’s always good to have something to return home to, and I’m excited to book a table at the newly opening SAAM, the first U.S. restaurant from chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, the Michelin-starred chef behind Bangkok’s (and The World’s 50 Best/Asia’s 50 Best) Le Du and Nusara.

The SF Chronicle reports the name means “three,” and joining chef Ton is chef de cuisine Ty Choosuwan (Prospect, Boulevard), and GM Tee Atthapon (chef-owner of Song Wat, and Kan Kiin in Daly City). I was impressed to see videos of chef Ton already shopping at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, but with the tie-in (I’m not going to make a pun here, I won’t!) with local Thai chefs, now it all makes sense.

Their upscale, regional Thai menu will highlight local and housemade ingredients. I’ve been watching some of the dishes roll out, like tiger prawns with shrimp paste and fava beans (okay, then!). Something that won’t be local: most dishes will reportedly be legit Thai hot, and not dialed down for American palates. Bring it on. SAAM is opening Friday July 24th in the former Thai Sun and Moon in China Basin (previously Koh Samui and the Monkey). Reservations are live and booking up. Open Tue–Sat 5pm–9pm. 415 Brannan St. at 3rd St.

Please Help Save the 91-Year-Old Tommaso’s, One of SF’s Most Inimitable and Irreplaceable Restaurants

We have a restaurant friend who could really use our help RIGHT NOW: Maureen Donegan, who recently took over the historic Tommaso’s (open since 1935). Mo has been trying to ride the waves of some recent setbacks (the joys of running a restaurant never end), and she could really use an assist right now. PLEASE HELP by donating, amplifying, and telling your rich friends who give a shit about San Francisco. It’s urgent. You can read more about the challenges she has been dealing with and why she’s on the brink of eviction in this SFGATE piece. I really hope this gets sorted ASAP.

From her GoFundMe that just went live on July 21st: “I never imagined I would have to ask for help like this. For almost two years, I have had the honor of stewarding Tommaso’s, one of San Francisco’s oldest family-owned restaurants and home to our beloved historic wood-fired oven. For 90 years, families, friends, neighbors, and visitors have gathered here to celebrate milestones and share everyday moments. Tommaso’s has never been just a restaurant—it is part of San Francisco’s heart. 

After surviving the pandemic, rising costs, equipment failures, inflation, and the many challenges facing independent restaurants, we have fallen behind on rent. We have now been served with a Three-Day Notice to Pay Rent or Quit, and without immediate help, Tommaso’s could close forever. 

We are asking our community to help us bring our rent current and give us a chance to stabilize the business. These funds will help us pay our past-due rent and keep our dedicated staff employed. If Tommaso’s has ever been part of your life—if you have celebrated here, shared a meal with loved ones, or believe San Francisco’s historic small businesses deserve to survive—I humbly ask for your support. Every donation, no matter the size, brings us closer to keeping our doors open. If you cannot donate, please share this campaign with your friends, family, and social networks. That simple act could help save this special place. 

From the bottom of my heart, thank you for believing in Tommaso’s, our staff, and the importance of preserving a piece of San Francisco’s history. My hope is that, together, we can keep the fire in our historic oven burning for generations to come.”

With gratitude, 
Maureen Donegan 
Steward, Tommaso’s Restaurant

Did you know the historic brick pizza oven was the first wood-fired pizza oven in the neighborhood, and reportedly the first on the West Coast?! (If you’re a supporting subscriber, you can read my former archivist piece about the storied location, which is where the Cantalupo family opened Lupo’s Famous Pizzeria and Neapolitan Restaurant in 1935.)

Please help support Tommaso’s, Mo needs our help. Donate. SIGNAL BOOST THE GOFUNDME. Tell your writer friends. Go get some pizza. Lasagna. Coo Coo clams. Bring your posse. Tip big. We can’t let things go down like this. Open Wed–Sun 5pm–9pm (until 10pm Fri–Sat). 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

Join A Dash Of This Saturday for an Exploratory Tasting of Summer Fruit and Salt

Are you enjoying summer produce as much as possible? You sure? Fresh off her recent trip to Greece (and full of inspiration from eating melons and tomatoes), salt maven and founder of A Dash Of, Dava Guthmiller, is hosting another one of her fascinating guided salt tastings at Blu Dot San Francisco this Saturday July 25th: Salt & Spice — Summer Fruit Tasting. You probably already know how a little salt can make a slice of watermelon really pop, but do you know which finishing salt really makes it sing? How about a little spice? Have you tried finishing salt on stone fruits, citrus, different kinds of melon, and berries? 

This Saturday’s guided tasting of six–eight salts will include spiced and infused varieties, paired with seasonal fruits. Get ready for lots of “wait, try this one” moments and great company. I love these tastings—you learn a bunch about salt (and your palate!) and it’s always an interesting group. Tickets are limited; $45. 2pm–3:30pm. Blu Dot Showroom, 99 Missouri St. at 17th St.

Can’t make it? The next A Dash Of tasting is Umami Hour — Salt, Tomatoes & the Fifth Flavor on Saturday September 19th.

the sponsor

Save on Tickets and Weekend Passes to the Coolest Indie Wine Event This Summer: UNFILTERED Is This Saturday and Sunday (July 25th–26th)

This weekend (July 25th–26th) is the greatly anticipated UNFILTERED wine festival, two days of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. 

There will be 60+ of California’s most compelling indie winemakers—from the pioneers to the latest visionaries—pouring their craft wines (check the lineup of wines here!) over two days.

Saturday, July 25th

AmByth Estate, Analog Wine Co., Caleb Leisure, Clos Saron, Donkey & Goat, Driftwood Cottage, En Cavale, Feral Ecology, Forlorn Hope, Frenchtown Farms, Fres.co Wine, Ghostnote, Grenachista, Ian Brand Wines, Inter Tidal Wines, Iruai Wine, Joseph‑Jibril, Lula, Matt Crutchfield Wines, Onward Wines, Prima Materia, Reclamation Wines, Rootdown Cellars, Spur Road, Thee And Thou Wines, A Tribute to Grace, Unturned Stone, Vine Farm Ridge, Volta, Wonderwerk.

Sunday, July 26th

280 Project, Arcadian, Bedrock, Ellsworth Wines, Enfield, Etteilla Wines, Gondak Cellars, Haarmeyer Wine, Helia Wine Co., Hovik Wine, Mad Marvlus Wine, Madson Wines, Maison Des Plaisances, Minus Tide Wines, Native Bloom Winery, Newfound Wines, Ottavino Wines, Popelouchum Estate, Precedent, Ruby Blanca, Ruth Lewandowski, Ryme Cellars, Samuel Louis Smith, Schema Wines, Ser Wines, Stagiaire Wine, Trail Marker Wine, Virgo Magic, Ward Four.

Here’s what Alder Yarrow says in his latest post on Vinography: “These are all independent, vision-driven, high-integrity winemakers. Some are newcomers, others have been leading the way for decades. Some are unabashed natural winemakers, while many believe in the judicious use of sulfur dioxide. Regardless, there’s lots of tasty juice on offer during each day. In short, not a bad way to spend a couple of weekend afternoons!”

You’ll be able to purchase many wines that aren’t even available in stores, so you’re saving yourself the shipping cost from the wineries with your ticket.

And the panel programming is so cool, with topics I’ve never seen before, like: From Chad Hinds’ Psychic Terroir to Vinyl Listening Bars: Recentering the Experiential Value of Wine Through Music, and The Lodi Effect: How Did Lodi Become a Hotbed for Creativity in Wine?

Add in delish food from local makers, music, and great people, and this isn’t just a tasting—it’s a full-on wine community gathering over the entire weekend.

tablehopper subscribers get 20% off tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20.

Thanks for sharing this post and spreading the word to your wine lovin’ friends so they don’t miss this stellar event. 🥂 By combining educational seminars with the largest gathering of independent wineries in Berkeley’s history, UNFILTERED seeks not merely to educate consumers, but to reshape demand—giving independent producers the visibility they deserve and inviting restaurants, retailers, and wine bars to champion the extraordinary wines being made in their own backyard.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery
1340 5th Street Berkeley

Day pass: $65; Weekend pass: $95
tablehopper subscribers receive 20% off early-bird tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered.

the archivist

From Showtunes to Topless Trapeze, the Gomans Had It All

By Francesca Gasparini

Supporting subscribers are reading a fantastic archivist piece about Goman’s Gay 90’s (and 60’s), the topless craze on Broadway, the Barbary Coast, the International Settlement, the Putnam sculptures, and more.

Becoming a supporting subscriber not only helps fund the ever-growing tablehopper collection of vintage ephemera, but also the time to research and tell the fascinating stories behind these pieces and places.

what’s cookin’

Greetings from Lake Tahoe, where it’s feeling like Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom, Sierra Nevada edition (and I’m your host, Marcialin Perkins). I’ve had almost daily bear sightings (here’s a video of a mama bear and her cub cruising through our family cabin’s back lot), and Fortuna is currently being courted by a young chipmunk (Chip), who, to be honest, seems a little off to me. (I always joke about watching Chipmunk TV up here, and this is more like Chipmunk Telenovela.) I keep waiting for Jim to bust through the ferns carrying a snappy marmot. (No anacondas, please.) The birdwatching has been entertaining, with sightings of common mergansers squabbling over a fish, squawky Steller’s jays and ravens, and DD-breasted robins hopping about.

We had a couple days of rain up here (falling rain in the woods produces the most calming sound and smell, I wish I could bottle it), but since the sun has returned, I’m back to my daily cold plunges into the cool and clear lake (I got a kick out of reading this recent piece on cold plunges in The New York Times). 

Since I’m not going out at night, I’ve managed to catch up with a few movies on my watchlist, including an online screening of the can’t-miss Ask E. Jean documentary...

This weekend is all about watching the final matches of World Cup, and more birds, and hopefully another episode of Fortuna and Chip—I love my Tahoe lineup.

I enjoyed working with summer intern Francesca Gasparini on a few stories for this week’s column, including her first archivist post, featuring Il Trovatore in North Beach (great job!). And don’t miss the sugar mama giveaway to enter to win a pair of passes to next weekend’s UNFILTERED wine festival in Berkeley. It’s a hot ticket to hang out with the indie wine community, taste (and buy) local wines, listen to some inspiring panels, eat tasty food, and more.

Cheers! 🥂
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Glam Leo’s Oyster Bar Has Softly Closed Its Oyster Shell

Pasta Supply Co’s Next Location, a New Gelato Shop, and More

Here are a few quick notes on new projects—a couple of these tidbits are supporting subscriber exclusives: 

Congrats to Lil’Alijo Catering & Events on becoming a permanent vendor at the Foodwise Ferry Plaza Farmers Market! You can find Alisha Wilson’s stand towards the back by Primavera every Saturday from 8am–2pm; here’s the menu of her Creole-Caribbean eats and treats.

I enjoyed reading this story in SFGATE on the return of Fresca (one of SF’s first Peruvian restaurants) to Noe Valley in early August, thanks to the next generation of the Calvo-Perez family. 3945 24th St. at Sanchez.

Super Duper News For Burger Buffs

By Francesca Gasparini

Commonly known as the over-achiever amongst burger chains for their “fast food burgers made with Slow Food values,” Super Duper Burgers announces the opening of their latest location at the corner of Fillmore and Post (formerly a Burger King). Tuesday July 14th marked the new location’s debut, bringing their classic burgers (made with freshly ground, vegetarian-fed Brandt Beef), free-range chicken sandwiches, fries (and garlic-cheese fries!), milkshakes (made with Straus Family Creamery organic soft-serve), and, of course, their housemade pickles, to the intersection of Lower Pacific Heights and Japantown.

Founded in the Castro in 2010, this is the 23rd location of Super Duper Burgers in the Bay Area. Operating hours are Mon–Thu 10am–11pm, Fri–Sat 10am–12am, and Sun 10am–11pm. 1701 Fillmore St. at Post.

Attack of the Killer (Delicious) Tomatoes

While I’m eating my body weight in peaches right now, a close runner-up is tomatoes, every day, in all the ways. Here are a few dishes and events where you can celebrate the rosy nightshade as it rolls into its prime season.

Pizzeria Delfina is serving their annual cherry pie, topped with marinated Sweet 100 and Sungold cherry tomatoes, plus basil, mozzarella, and a shaving of ricotta salata. Available now through peak tomato season (end of September).

The Bix summer tomato cart is pure genius. Instead of serving their famed steak tartare, a cart rolls up tableside so you can watch a California caprese salad of your dreams be assembled, with stunning tomatoes from Dirty Girl Produce, Zuckerman’s Farms, and Balakian Farms. The sliced tomatoes are served with a chiffonade of basil and a decadent scoop of creamy basket ricotta from Bellwether Farms, finished with a hearty glug of olive oil. Enjoy while it lasts.

Every year, I wait for the tomato-anchovy toast at The Anchovy Bar, with their housemade, lime-pickled “boquerones” and heirloom tomato vinaigrette on toast, a zhuzhed pan con tomate.

Bosco just launched a four-course, prix-fixe, heirloom tomato menu ($55), featuring peak summer tomatoes in every course, like tomato and stone fruit gazpacho; housemade tomato and goat cheese scarpinocc; and green tomato and eggplant parmigiana, with heirloom tomato sorbet for dessert.

If you want to truly enjoy a taste of summer, Little Saint and A16 are collaborating on a dinner in honor of a tomato sagra, but instead of a village festival of pomodori, it will be a plant-based dinner celebrating the Southern Italian tradition and Sonoma’s peak tomato season on Saturday August 15th (which is also Ferragosto in Italy). Imagine dishes like cold-cured olive misti with pickled cherry tomatoes, oven-dried cherry tomatoes on the vine, A16’s signature Neapolitan pizza, and more, all featuring ingredients sourced from Little Saint’s eight-acre regenerative farm. Reservations from 5pm–9pm; $125 per person, gratuity not included. Little Saint, 25 North St., Healdsburg.

If you want even more inspiration to go stuff yourself on tomato dishes, be part of the GGRA’s (Golden Gate Restaurant Association’s) 2026 Tomato Month, happening now through August 15th. Restaurants throughout San Francisco are offering tomato-focused dishes (like I mentioned above!), and all you need to do is log your dining experience at any five San Francisco restaurants or farmers’ markets using a QR code (see above), and you’ll be entered into a raffle to win one of three staycation prize packages.

Tomato dishes are encouraged (bring on the BLT, or even a pizza), but if tomatoes aren’t your jam, corn, peaches, and other seasonal produce count, too, but it has to be in SF! An additional prize drawing will be available for those who use the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth on Instagram. Have fun on your tomato quest! 🍅

the sugar mama

Enter to Win a Pair of Passes to the Coolest Indie Wine Event This Summer: UNFILTERED on July 25–26th

🎉 GIVEAWAY BELOW! 🎉 Since you subscribe to tablehopper, you’ve likely seen my posts about the upcoming UNFILTERED wine festival, a weekend (July 25th–26th) of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. 

Not only will there be 2 days of 60+ of California’s most compelling indie winemakers—from the pioneers to the latest visionaries—pouring their craft wines (check the lineup of wines here!):

And the panel programming is so cool, with topics I’ve never seen before, like: From Chad Hinds’ Psychic Terroir to Vinyl Listening Bars: Recentering the Experiential Value of Wine Through Music, and The Lodi Effect: How Did Lodi Become a Hotbed for Creativity in Wine?.

Add in delish food from local makers, music, and great people, and this isn’t just a tasting—it’s a full-on wine community gathering over the entire weekend.

You’ll be able to purchase many wines that aren’t even available in stores, so you’re saving yourself the shipping cost from the wineries with your ticket.

tablehopper subscribers get 20% off tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20 (tickets ➡️ donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered), but we’re also giving away one pair of weekend passes to one lucky winner. Here’s how:

Thanks for sharing this post and spreading the word to your wine lovin’ friends so they don’t miss this stellar event. 🥂 By combining educational seminars with the largest gathering of independent wineries in Berkeley’s history, UNFILTERED seeks not merely to educate consumers, but to reshape demand—giving independent producers the visibility they deserve and inviting restaurants, retailers, and wine bars to champion the extraordinary wines being made in their own backyard.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery
1340 5th Street Berkeley

Day pass: $65; Weekend pass: $95
tablehopper subscribers receive 20% off early-bird tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: www.donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered.

the socialite

A Day of Gluttony and Gluten: SF’s Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival Returns on August 15th!

By Francesca Gasparini

It’s that time of year again, when the City delivers carbs, brews, music, and entertainment until you can’t even eat one more bite. On Saturday August 15th, the annual SF Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival returns for its fourth rendition as North Beach’s most anticipated food festival. Hosted by the renowned Tony Gemignani (13-time World Pizza Champion and owner of various esteemed pizza shops and bakeries)—in partnership with the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club—the festival promises the best the Bay has to offer in pizza, bagel, and beer. 

The killer lineup features both returning and new pizzaioli from over 36 places, such as Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, Capo’s, Slice House, A16, DAMNFINE, Flour + Water Pizzeria, Il Casaro, Rose Pizzeria, Square Pie Guys, and Terún, along with a group of women in pizza, featuring Gabacool Pizzeria, PizzaLeah, and Pizzeria da Laura.

The bagel department is covered by names like Cafe Brusco, The Laundromat, and Dago Bagel, among others, while the beer selection will be provided by local breweries like Enterprise Beer, Fieldwork Brewing, and Standard Deviant Brewing, along with some cider and hard kombucha.

These talented vendors will be shutting down Stockton and Filbert Streets from 12pm–4pm, with neighboring bars and restaurants continuing the fun into the evening with live music and special offerings.

This year, the entertainment is leveling-up with a new live music stage celebrating Bimbo’s 365 Club centered in Washington Square Park. Artists are expected to perform swing, jazz, and rock all throughout the afternoon to enjoy alongside or in between your bites and brews.

What’s more, the San Francisco Ooni Pizza Championship—moderated by celebrated pizzaioli Eidref Laxa and Adam Sachs—will return, where attendees will be able to watch 18 home chefs and pizza enthusiasts compete to make the best pie. This event has grown to become one of the headliners of the festival, drawing pumped-up crowds of pizza-loving locals and visitors.

Tickets are on sale now and have a tendency to sell out. The festival offers a limited VIP ticket ($275), which includes pizza and bagel tastings, unlimited beer tickets, one-hour early entry (at 11am), and access to a private lounge at the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club featuring an open bar, Columbus Craft Meats charcuterie bites, and an abundant gift bag of Italian specialties; Ages 21+ tickets ($90) get you pizza and bagel tastings, plus 4 beer tickets; Youth tickets offer pizza and bagel tastings with price varying with age: Ages 13+ tickets ($60), and Ages 5–12 tickets ($30); kids under 5 receive free entry.

Over the last three years, the event raised over $225,000, with proceeds benefiting local causes; a portion of the proceeds from this event goes towards supporting local non-profit organizations, including the Salesian Boys & Girls Club, San Francisco Italian Athletic Club Foundation, Saints Peter & Paul School, Friends of Washington Square Park, Next Village, the North Beach Business Association, and the John Arena Foundation.

the starlet

the archivist

Il Trovatore Proves Signage Leaves Legacy

By Francesca Gasparini

Thanks for reading tablehopper—please consider supporting our work with a subscription. 💫