what’s cookin’

Howdy, friends. It’s your hopper, with a quick dispatch before the weekend. Life tossed me some lemons, so I decided to make lemonade, and on Wednesday, I packed up Fortuna (my cat) and my laptop and hopped in my Fiat for an unplanned jaunt to Tahoe to soak up some majestic lake beauty and breathe in the mountain air. Hello, sun. It’s a special kind of therapy.

On my drive up, I’m so glad I was able to make it in time to Ikedas market in Auburn to pick up a couple baskets of their forever-fabulous peaches (O’Henry, thanks for showing up early, you handsome, freestone, hunk of a peach). Ikedas—a third-generation, Japanese American family business—has an incredible story, and it was just named the No. 1 Pie Shop in America in the USA Today 10BEST Readers’ Choice Awards (so well deserved). I didn’t pick up a pie, because having a whole Ikedas peach pie all to myself would be a problem, but I should have snagged a slice à la mode from the restaurant—or a pie milkshake! (On my way back to SF in a couple weeks, peach pie is happening.)

More stone fruit: last week, I was able to slip into the recently opened Esme on Divisadero for a restorative dinner with a dear friend—I’ll be writing more about this charming neighborhood bistro very soon. But, for now, if you happen to have a reservation (or want to try your luck walking in for a seat at the kitchen bar), don’t miss the current special written on one of the bistro mirrors on the wall: seared halloumi with grilled stone fruit (our server revealed they were golden apricots of heaven), which had a lightly smoky kiss that let you pretend you’re at a summer barbecue instead of swaddled in the middle of SF’s sweater weather. The dish gets an acidic counterpoint from the shallot gastrique and pickled Fresno chile, plus more kicky zip from piment d’Espelette, with some mint sprinkled on top (and I believe there were petite fronds of chervil—I didn’t fact-check this). However, we made a mistake and didn’t have a side of bread on the table to mop up the smoky-sweet-tangy juices at the end. (Get the bread.) And then, there’s the bonkers luscious pairing of Camin Larredya Jurançon moelleux (late harvest) dessert wine that tastes like a star-crossed lover with this dish. I can’t wait to write about sommelier and GM Andre Sydnor’s utterly fantastic wine list—the Champagne section alone made me swoon. More soon, bisous!

So, it’s the weekend. Finally. If I was in The City right now, I’d have a busy Saturday lined up. There are two World Cup quarterfinal matches to watch (at 2pm and 6pm), and there’s SF Magazine’s 25th annual Best of the Bay party (that link will take you to my special discount code!), and if drinking California wines crafted from Italian grape varieties with porchetta sliders and amatriciana on the patio at 54 Mint is more your speed, take a look at the sponsored event below: ViNO in PiAZZA. Or, do it all! More is more.

You know what else is more? Having some extra hands over here at Hopper HQ! I’m so pleased to announce I have a summer intern, Francesca Gasparini, who just started with me this week. (Her last name should be familiar if you love cocktails in SF.) The other night, I started laughing to myself that your last name has to end in “ini” if you’re going to intern over here—last year, we had the wonderful Olivia Casellini.

Francesca will be helping me research and write local restaurant news stories (we’ve been working in tandem this week to get her ramped up, so you’ll see her byline all over today’s column, yay). I’m pleased to learn she’s a fellow history buff, so she’ll also be writing some archivist posts for supporting subscribers, as well as working on other special projects (did someone say 20th anniversary?).

Get to know Francesca: 

Hello, everyone, my name is Francesca Gasparini and I’m beyond excited to introduce myself as a new summer intern for tablehopper! I was born and raised in the Bay Area, and am currently home for the summer before I return to UC Santa Barbara in the fall as a second year Sociology and Environmental Studies double major. I’m thrilled to combine my two greatest passions— food and journalism—working here at tablehopper!

Growing up in the Bay has made me a foodie since the womb, not to mention having Jon Gasparini—co-owner of Rye on the Road and the soon-to-reopen 15 Romolo—as my father. I’ve grown up around the food industry and have been conditioned to love and appreciate food and hospitality all my life. I love the rich cultural history of San Francisco (as well as all the tasty treats that are made here) and am delighted to get to explore it further with all of you!

Benvenuta, Francesca! It looks like we’ll need to start digging through all my vintage San Francisco books to put together an archivist piece on Julius’ Castle, which seems to finally, really, truly be close to reopening this fall. It first opened in the early 1920s, and has been sitting dark at the top of Telegraph Hill since 2008. (Oh, I just remembered, I shared a vintage postcard of Julius’ Castle from the 1950s a couple years ago in the archivist—I love how it looks like a beach castle.)

I look forward to catching up with owner Paul Scott soon, who has been through so many setbacks and hurdles since he purchased the location in a bankruptcy sale in 2012, but he has really stuck with it. Strong work! In the meantime, you can read the latest updates via these stories in the SF Chronicle, SFGATE, and SFist, and Tony Bravo shared some pics from 2024 of the in-progress interior (and a table that will have the best view in The City). I wish my grandpa Ernie was still here to tell me stories about dining at Julius’ Castle. Feel free to write in with any memories you have of going there, and what you loved.

Cheers to SF!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Talk to the Hand: SF’s First Aussie-Style Handroll Shop Is Coming to Russian Hill

There’s a new style of casual eats coming to San Francisco this fall, thanks to Romi Trower, an Australian filmmaker and Melbourne native who has been missing Australian-style, grab-and-go handrolls since she moved here in 2019. She enlisted the Flour + Water Hospitality Group as consulting partners to launch Handroll Hawker, which will be bringing upbeat vibes to Russian Hill with a punchy pink palette and a mural from Serge Gay Jr. (Hoodline first noticed the buildout in March).

In SF, we only see temaki handrolls while at a sushi bar (like the nearby Saru, and the former Handroll Project in the Mission), but in Melbourne (and Sydney, too), Trower explains handrolls are a casual lunchtime staple and available everywhere, kind of like the way we are with burritos here. Aussie handrolls feature fresh fish and accompanying ingredients with sushi rice, which all gets wrapped up in nori in a cylindrical shape (not a cone), and boom, a few minutes later, you’re good to go. No chopsticks, no sliced maki—you can hold it in your hand and drive a bus. (Actually, don’t do that, but you can walk your dog or go down the street, easy.)

Trower explains Aussie handroll fillings can be standard like what we see in maki...

2360 Polk St. at Union.

More Casual Openings Around Town 

Back in May, supporting subscribers received the news (thanks to a neighborhood tipster) that a third location of Bonita Taqueria y Rotisserie was coming to the former Tacolicious/Todo el Día in Noe Valley, and the opening just happened on Wednesday July 8th. The project is from owner JJ Sweidan, working alongside his sister, Jenna Salah—their father is Issa Sweidan (founder-owner of Squat & Gobble), so they grew up in the restaurant industry...

Oklava Cafe Brings Turkish and Mediterranean-Inspired Cuisine to Market Street

By Francesca Gasparini

As you may remember reading in tablehopper back in May, there’s a new project, Oklava Cafe, that is one of Saluhall’s latest downtown additions, and it just opened July 7th in 945 Market. The Turkish team behind Palo Alto’s flagship location and SF’s Turquaz, Aziz Aslan and Elif Uzun, opened Oklava Cafe on the ground floor at Saluhall, which will make it easy to access for all-day dining.

Expect an authentic Turkish coffee program, as well as new creations, like pistachio and baklava lattes, served alongside a variety of their housemade Turkish pastries and desserts, including baklava (Marcia loves their cold milky pistachio baklava at Turquaz), kataifi, simit, poğaça, and borek.

The café offers an all-day breakfast menu, from Mediterranean avocado toast to Turkish breakfast, in addition to a variety of grab-and-go-style Turkish dishes. Pop in for lahmacun (a traditional Turkish flatbread that is thin and crispy, topped with minced meat, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs), or choose from their selection of hot and cold mezes, including baba ghanoush, kofte, and hummus. Open Sun–Thu 11am–7pm and Fri–Sat 11am–8pm. 945 Market St. at 5th St.

Summer Solstice Prompts a New Wave of Affordable, Prix-Fixe Menus

By Francesca Gasparini 

Co-chefs Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow introduce Flour + Water’s new, late-night, prix-fixe menu for the summer: Al Dente After Dark. Nestled at the heart of the Mission, Flour +Water has been serving up quality Italian cuisine with a Northern-Californian influence for the past 17 years, and this new menu should inspire you to return if it has been a while since your last visit. 

Only offered Sunday through Thursday after 8:45pm until closing, these hours should really appeal to industry folks (and with more light in the evenings, we’re all eating later in the day). For $59 per person, this vibrant, three-course menu offers a selection of bright summer salads and Flour +Water’s innovative, hand-crafted pastas using seasonal ingredients from local suppliers. Menu items will rotate as the summer progresses.

Elevate your experience with a personalized wine pairing for an additional $35 and pretend you’re in Italy enjoying a late-night dinner. You can reserve ahead of time, and walk-ins are welcome at the bar. 2401 Harrison St. at 20th St.

Hayes Street Grill is also offering their own three-course, prix-fixe seasonal menu that lists an assortment of crisp salads and freshly prepared seafood for your weekend outings this summer. Their Summer in the City menu runs Thursday through Saturday, from 6:30pm until closing. At just $49 per person, you get the opportunity to try light summer starters, like their Oregon Bay shrimp salad with gold beets, jade beans, eggs, and Green Goddess dressing, or grilled Monterey calamari, butter bean, and arugula salad. Mains include grilled steelhead salmon with Brentwood corn succotash and beurre blanc, and finish your night with a Meyer lemon chiffon mousse. To maximize freshness, the menu is subject to slight alterations depending on what’s at the market. 320 Hayes St. at Franklin.

sponsored event

This Saturday Evening! ViNO in PiAZZA: Italian Roots, California Terroir at 54 Mint

Raise your glass (again and again) at the first edition of ViNO in PiAZZA, an open-air tasting on 54 Mint’s comfy patio this Saturday evening (July 11th), featuring local wines made from Italian varietals by Ghostnote Wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and Prima Materia from Lake County. 

Pair every glass with Roman bites from chef Mattia Marcelli, like amatriciana, sliders with housemade porchetta, bruschetta with butter and anchovies, and supplì al telefono.

Meet the teams behind the bottles, taste their wines, and hear the stories that shaped them as you mingle with fellow wine lovers on a summer evening in Mint Plaza. 

$71.40 per person, all-inclusive (wine and food pairings)
Buy your ticket here

Saturday July 11th
5pm–8pm
54 Mint
16 Mint Plaza, San Francisco

the lush

Two New Brewery and Taproom Projects in SF Bring Something to Cheers To

By Francesca Gasparini

The recent wave of brewery closures across The City has caused concern amongst beer-drinking locals, including the unfortunate closure of Black Hammer Brewery back in March, and the announcement of Ballast Point’s abrupt closure that they just posted to their Instagram last week. However, with two new taproom projects to announce, it looks like the local brewing industry is turning a new tide this summer. 

San Francisco Brewing Co. just opened its largest project yet in the former Seven Stills Brewery and Distillery in Mission Bay, joining their existing brewery at Ghirardelli Square (established in 2012 by Josh Leavy). Their new property has a mind-boggling, 18,680 square feet of both indoor and outdoor dining space (designed by King O’Kelly Architects), featuring a full kitchen, 40-foot bar, large courtyard, and even an arcade! 7,000 square feet is dedicated to brewing space for their signature craft beers and rotating seasonal brews, with multiple, large, in-house beer tanks.

There’s also a 750-gallon copper pot still imported from Scotland (the largest in California!) for their new distilling operation: Hooper St. Distilling Co., which is launching with gin, vodka, and whiskey later this year.

Designed to be a family- and pet-friendly space, SFBCo. is planning to host live music and DJs every weekend, alongside game-day events (and private events, too). There’s a full-service dining experience led by executive chef Nas (Ignacio) Maldonado—previously at Cellarmaker Brewing Company’s House of Pizza—who collaborated with restaurant consultant Brian Reccow. Expect an elevated bar food menu featuring everything from Sicilian-style pizza and IPA pulled pork, to al pastor chicken, smash burgers, and skewers. This monster space has plenty of room for friends to gather after work and for families on the weekends to socialize, enjoy an ice-cold beer, a cocktail, and perhaps even shoot your shot at the Pac-Man leaderboard. 100 Hooper St. at 7th St.

On the other side of the city...

what’s cookin’

Hello hello, I have completed my two-week whirlwind of World Cup match–hopping and I’m back in SF! I just got home from Seattle last week, where on Wednesday it was a scorching 85 degrees at high noon while watching Bosnia and Herzegovina beat Qatar at Lumen Field. Hawt!

It was such a indelible experience to travel with my 85-year-old father and beloved sister to three matches over the past couple weeks, and we even got to visit with friends and family during our jaunts. It was our father’s eighth World Cup, my sister’s fifth, and my second, but our first all together. I’m grateful and so fortunate for the shared memories we have of this time together—and I always learn so much about the game when I’m with our dad, he doesn’t miss a beat.

While I’m not particularly the most sporty lady, there’s nothing like the feeling of being in a stadium of 65,000-plus soccer fans from around the world. It’s heady. Shoutout to the Bosnia and Herzegovina fans—we attended two of their matches (in the fabulous SoFi Stadium in LA and in Seattle), and their fan sections and songs and passion and friendliness were really something. Tonight’s match against USMNT is gonna be so lit! I really wish we could bring our father, but the ticket prices are so completely, utterly nuts.

One of my favorite things is walking around a stadium watching people take a closer look at our father’s Italian tricolore hat, which is covered with World Cup pins and flags from countries around the world—curious folks will make comments or ask questions, and the next thing you know, we’ve got a conversation going. Carm also trades pins with other fans, which offers an interesting life lesson about attachment—for such a sentimental man, I’m impressed that he’s able to let some of his favorite pins go back out into the world, but then again, some really cool ones come into his life that way, too.

Last Wednesday night, while we were watching Mexico win 3-0 on TV, the Michelin Guide California awards were being handed out in San Diego, and one of my most adored restaurants (finally) received their third star: Californios! Tremendous congrats to chef-owner Val M. Cantú, his wife, Carolyn, and their dedicated team: not only was this hard-earned designation finally happening, but it also makes Californios the first Mexican restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars in the world (again, finally). I remember attending one of Cantú’s very first pop-ups in the Mission in 2013, and have taken great pleasure in witnessing his culinary evolution and continual leveling up over the past 13 years. Bravo! I consider his al pastor squab taco nestled in a flour tortilla of your absolute dreams during my last visit to Californios as one of the most delicious tacos of my life. Whenever people ask me where they should go for a memorable fine dining experience in SF, my answer is Californios, without hesitation.

Here are all of the 83 starred restaurants in California (as well as Bib Gourmands). Congrats to Enclos in Sonoma, who also rose to three stars (in just a year and a half!), and to SF’s new one-stars: Naides and Wolfsbane (as well as Troubadour Bread & Bistro in Healdsburg!). I love seeing the recently opened Maria Isabel already come in with the Exceptional Cocktail Award, and GM Frida Blomdahl Hay at the relocated Sons & Daughters won the Michelin Service Award. It takes so much work and dedication to maintain stars, so, big kudos to all the places who kept their macarons in place. It’s time to break out the Champagne! 

Or, in the case of the upcoming UNFILTERED wine event at Donkey & Goat in Berkeley (July 25th–26th), make it California sparkling wine. During the two-day event, there will be a variety of panels to attend, and I will definitely be present for “Breaking the Champagne Spell: California’s Great Sparkling Wine Experiment,” an in-depth conversation with Chris Cottrell (Under the Wire), Brad Kurtz (viticulturist at Gloria Ferrer), Jared Brandt (Donkey & Goat), and Michael Cruse (Cruse Wine Co and Ultramarine) on Saturday July 25th at 1:30pm. [UNFILTERED is a paid sponsor, and tablehopper readers get a discount on tickets, access the code here.]

Your gurl had so many plans for this past SF Pride Weekend, from marches to parties, kikis, rallies, and dance floors I needed to twirl on, but, sadly, I was under the weather and had to stay home. I can’t believe I had to miss out on my favorite SF weekend with my beloved community. At least I was able to play a couple choice Pride party soundtracks at home: here’s a brand-new Pride mix from CarrieOnDisco, and a Pride mix from Josh Cheon of Dark Entries Records on the NTS Radio Show.

I have also been loving the 7x7 installation by Illuminate at City Hall—it has been so beautiful to watch from my desk window every night, beaming up into the fog, and we have one more week to enjoy it.

But this year’s Pride was also a challenging one, especially for our trans community, including the scarily escalated and excessive police force at the end of the SF Trans March on Friday (and it’s the 60th anniversary of the Compton’s Cafeteria Riot, ugh), along with other heated and traumatizing incidents. I’m so glad District 9 Supervisor Jackie Fielder is back—KALW reports she submitted a Letter of Inquiry to ask SFPD and the Mayor questions about the outsized police response this past weekend at two trans gatherings. The queer community (and allies and SF citizens) need answers and accountability.

There’s a lot to unpack and understand, starting with the SF Giants Pride Night debacle (be sure to read this coverage about the uplifting counterpoint of the Valkyries’ Pride Night), and Senator Scott Wiener’s appearance at the Trans March, and these stories keep developing with more information. I’ve been talking with friends and reading many perspectives on all these events, and I hope you can do the same—we need to have informed conversations. This year’s Pride leaves us with much to process, question, and learn from—and the importance of renewed commitment to show up for and protect our LGBTQIA+ community. And brava, Juanita MORE!, for raising over $140,000 through her Pride events that will be “donated to the GLBT Historical Society Museum & Archives. Allowing them to continue to affirm that LGBTQIA+ history is American history. And that our stories are worth protecting.”

Today’s issue is a shortie (I was busy leading one of my private food tours yesterday), but a goodie (wait until you check out Bruno’s Italian Taste below). Since the Fourth of July holiday is obserrrrrved this Friday, I’m going to take the rest of this week to catch up with my damn self and hundreds of emails and will see you on the flip side of the fireworks. Also: Todd Terje returns to SF after 10+ years to play a DJ set at Public Works on Saturday night!

A bunch of restaurants are taking well-deserved holiday breaks this week, so call or check online before heading over to your favorite joint. (Although, I just noticed Foreign Cinema is open for brunch and dinner on Saturday, cute!)

Take good care, and let’s all try to get some rest.
XO,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Bruno’s Italian Taste Now Open in Yerba Buena, Bringing Authentic Southern Italian Flavors in an All-Day Concept

Back in December, I was so thrilled to break the story about the opening of Bruno’s Italian Taste in Yerba Buena from Calabrese couple Fabio Brunocilla and Marcella Foti, who hail from my Dad’s hometown of Cosenza. They’re dedicated to showcasing Southern Italian ingredients, products, authentic dishes, and hospitality; this is their first brick-and-mortar business, one that the couple has been planning for a long time. (I wrote in depth about their backgrounds and how this project came to be in my former piece.)

Last Monday, I swung by their new pizza, pasta, street food, pastry, and panino shop (and much more!) for the first day of their soft opening. The smell of freshly baking pizza will tickle your nose before you walk in, and then you see the case of pizza in teglia alla romana, ranging from a pan of Margherita, to Calabrese (with spianata piccante salame), ortolana (vegetarian with tomato sauce, cheese, three kinds of roasted bell peppers and onions, or with mushrooms), and there’s even a vegan option; upcoming specials and flavors will include housemade Calabrese sausage and friarielli (rapini), potato, mortadella and burrata, and more. The slices cost around $8.50.

The dough process takes 48 hours; Fabio par-bakes the pizza, and then as the supply dwindles in the case, he finishes baking a fresh pan in his Tauro electric deck oven—they also warm up your slice when you order it. I tried the delicious ortolana pizza: the dough had a perfect balance of golden crispiness and light crunch, while being pillowy soft inside, and the bright tomato sauce with the roasted bell peppers made me think of my grandmother’s peperonata—all I needed was a wedge of caciocavallo with it. 

They will be offering panini in their housemade ciabatta for lunch, from a mortadella panino with stracciatella cheese and pistachio pesto, to the Calabrese (with hot spianata salami, Calabrese provola, roasted bell peppers, dried tomatoes in oil, and ’nduja, how about that?)! Panini will cost $15–$18.50.

You’ll find a few caprese salads (one is with burrata, another with bufala), and their Italian green salad has carrots, radishes, Castelvetrano olives, and add-ons like mozzarella ciliegine, burrata, or asiago. There was also a good-looking Umbrian farro salad with cherry tomatoes, Castelvetrano olives, Italian mushrooms, capers, mozzarella, and basil.

There’s a hot case with items you can eat for lunch, or do like I did and bring home some eggplant Parmigiana to warm up later for dinner—it’s like having your imaginary Italian cousin send you home with a little something from their kitchen. The homemade touch shines in everything they make. There’s lasagna bolognese, and a mushroom lasagna, plus beef meatballs in marinara ($16–$18), and their housemade spicy Calabrese sausage stir-fried with potatoes should be in the case soon. I also can’t wait to try their lasagna Calabrese, which is going to be like how we make it at home, with mini meatballs and sliced boiled egg!

They’re putting together a happy hour from 3:30pm–7:30pm, with taglieri (boards of sliced cheeses and salumi—most of the items will be Calabrese or Southern Italian), as well as bruschetta, and their house-cured vegetables (like Calabrese eggplant, the best!). 

Since Fabio is quite the baker, this week, he started baking traditional Italian cornetti and filled brioche for morning service to go with their Neapolitan espresso (Caffè Borbone)—they were trying to get Aiello from Cosenza, so maybe that will happen in the future. 

You can’t go home without a container of Fabio’s tiramisù: he makes a classic one with mascarpone and a top layer of cocoa ($7.50), but the one that really knocked my socks off was his pistachio version ($8.50)—he whips pistachio crema into the mascarpone, brilliant. It was light, not too sweet, and the espresso-soaked ladyfingers will give you a little bass note (and boost).

I was chuckling over the Italian light-up signs they have on the walls (some are in Calabrese dialect), and fellow day one customers included the Sicilian couple (Ilary and Ceci) behind Hila gelato with their new baby! Auguri, Fabio and Marcella, on your new baby, Bruno! In case you’re wondering about who Bruno is, it’s a nickname Fabio earned from his last name (Brunocilla) when they were living in Padova—Northern Italians tend to abbreviate last names. Now that their soft opening week is over, hours are expanding to Mon–Fri 8am–7:30pm. 606 Mission St. at 2nd St.

News Bites from Around the Bay

Here are some quick news bites for you—I wish I had time to write more about these projects, but this week is fast and furious:

Congrats to George Chen and Cindy Wong-Chen of China Live on getting the 15,000-square-foot Asia Live (and BarLucy on the second floor) open in at Westfield Valley Mall in Santa Clara. If you’re heading down for any World Cup games, you can go check it out!

SFGATE had an early visit: “While China Live centers on Chinese cuisine, Asia Live draws on a wide variety of Asian fare, from Indonesian and Japanese to Indian, Korean, Thai and Vietnamese.” The piece shares a taste of some of the new and rotating dishes on the menu, like Singapore kaya shrimp toast and Tokyo sweet and sour pork tenderloin tonkatsu, which are prepared at open kitchen stations.

Asia Live’s retail marketplace is open daily 10am–9pm, lunch and dinner service is 11am–11pm, BarLucy is open Sun–Thu 5pm–10pm and Fri–Sat until 11pm. The Pergola Bar & Cafe with outdoor seating for 50, and Sushi & Yakiniku bar on level one will debut on July 1st, along with Asia Live On-the-Go takeout service on concourse level one. 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd. #1891, Santa Clara.

It looks like Cheezy’s Artisan Pizza is reopening in The Market after closing their stand in Saluhall—stand by for updates on timing. Way to go on the comeback. 1355 Market St.

KRON4 caught the news that Funky Elephant on Valencia has sadly closed their delicious Thai restaurant. Bummer. Their (tiny) Berkeley location remains open. 1270 Valencia St.

Damn, another fire on Divisadero? The Mill suffered a fire early Monday morning, but, thankfully, no one was injured: “Last night we had a fire and will be closed until further notice while we get everything sorted. Everyone is safe, just in shock. Thank you for your support as we figure out how to move forward.” Since it’s also the HQ for Josey Baker Bread, the team is trying to figure out how to continue their baking production elsewhere in the meantime. 736 Divisadero St.

I was sad to see this post from Zhuzh Bar that Pride Sunday was the inclusive neighborhood bar and cute, mini-disco’s last day of business. Wah! I wrote about the opening from Aaron Paul, Jacob Roberts, and Eric Passetti just a little over two years ago. Thanks for the impromptu dance party nights, perfect after shows at the Regency. Damn. 1548 California St.

Back to good news: Eric Tucker and Alison Bagby of Millennium have reopened the 32-year-old vegan restaurant (since 1994!) with a new format: a five-course prix-fixe patio menu for $95/person, optional wine pairing: $46/person; and an à la carte menu at the bar and inside for self-seating (fast-casual style). Read more about the new format here and in this SF Chronicle story. 5912 College Ave., Oakland.

I love some good queer business news during Pride month: after trying to sell Orphan Andy’s so they can (finally) retire, married co-owners Dennis Ziebell and Bill Pung have a buyer, and SF Business Times reports the kitschy Castro diner is under contract to sell to Michael Goodrich, currently an assistant general manager at Bun Mee. And, we can exhale: “Goodrich told the Business Times he plans to keep things the way they are, retaining all staff and 24-hour service — in line with the longtime owners’ wishes.” You can read more in the Bay Area Reporter, who first reported on the sale. 3991 17th St.

D’Arcy Drollinger has announced the date for the reopening of Oasis is July 17th, thanks to a last-minute save from a multimillion-dollar donation from the Stevens Family (you can read more in this SFGATE story). While tickets to The Grand Reveal are sold out, there are other events listed. Welcome back, Oasis! Whew and whoo! 298 11th St.

the matchmaker

Restaurant & Café Equipment Sale from Recchiuti Confections

2565 3rd Street, San Francisco

Stop by on Monday July 6th for a massive sale of food service equipment, including kitchen tools, baking pans, culinary machinery, drinkware, and much more. Front of the house and back of the house materials on sale, for a variety of operations. Open house–style from the hours of 11am–4pm, pricing individually listed but discounts provided for encouraged bulk purchases. Ranging from brand new to lightly used.

Larger equipment such as refrigerators, microwaves, and water heaters are also available. Enough equipment to open up a new café tomorrow. Reach out to (415) 602-4102 with any questions (please fill out this interest form).

I’d love to have you become a tablehopper supporting subscriber—it’s such a mutually beneficial relationship. 🥂💞 Enjoy the holiday weekend. 🎆

what’s cookin’

Hi, it’s your tired hopper. I know, I’m usually pretty upbeat over here, but between dealing with my busted laptop for a week (would you believe I had to have the Apple Store wipe it for a factory reset, UGH, and it’s still crawling back?), and after being on day six of what bloomed into a rotten cold, I am spent.

So much for getting some rest before getting ready to head down to LA today with my dad and sis for a World Cup match this Thursday (Switzerland vs. Bosnia and Herzegovina), and then we’re back up for Turkey vs. Paraguay at Levi’s Stadium on Friday. Whooosh. It was such a blast watching the USA vs. Paraguay match on Friday from my couch (with Fortuna in my lap, she’s a new soccer fan)—USA is back in action at noon this Friday vs. Australia. I love seeing all the organic watch parties happening at neighborhood places like Leopold’s and El Chato!

Since World Cup and Father’s Day are intersecting this year, I thought it would be fun to share this vintage pic of my dad (Carmen) with his girls picking out some Halloween pumpkins after what looks like some weekend soccer practice. (Carm is wearing a T-shirt commemorating when Spain hosted the World Cup in 1982, which Italy won that year, so this pic is giving some early ’80s realness.) I’m wishing all you dads and father figures a happy Father’s Day this Sunday (you’ll find some ideas on where to bring Pops in this week’s column), and much love to all who are missed.

While I was stuck home this past weekend, I thoroughly enjoyed watching the Earth Wind & Fire (To Be Celestial vs That’s the Weight of the World) documentary by Questlove on HBOMax. This doc goes deep, and is so immersive. Anyone who grew up in the ’70s will dig learning the backstory of a visionary band that was the soundtrack to so many moments of our lives. It tells an incredible story, one that spans so many years, and there are some fun and unexpected reveals, too. It would be a good one to watch this Friday on Juneteenth.

Congrats to all the winners of the 2026 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards and Media Awards. Locally, we had chef Michael Tusk of Quince win Outstanding Chef, and Kevin Diedrich of Pacific Cocktail Haven won Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service. Way to get SF back in the game. The full list of winners can be found on the James Beard Foundation website. 

Over the weekend, I gave a big, sad sigh after seeing a couple in remembrance posts from Vesuvio and Specs in honor of Jeannette Etheredge, our salty grand dame of North Beach and an absolute LEGEND, who has reportedly left us for the smoky, cash-only cocktail bar in the sky. I haven’t seen an obituary yet, so I’ve been stalling on sending this while trying to get confirmation from people close to her. I reached out to Janet Clyde, owner of Vesuvio, who said several close friends have confirmed Jeannette’s passing, and a post on Facebook from her friend Leslie Kaye shares, “Dear friends, in case you have not heard the sad news, Jeannette Etheredge, legendary owner of Tosca Caffe, died peacefully yesterday morning with her son Devin holding her hand.” North Beach Citizens posted this heartfelt tribute and wonderful pics of Jeannette. Deep condolences to her family and vast circle of friends and fans.

Jeannette descended from North Beach bohemian royalty (with a jaw-dropping dramatic family history): her mother, Armen Baliantz, AKA Madam Bali, was the elder icon known for cultivating and hosting an artistic and fascinating milieu while holding court at Bali’s, her restaurant in Jackson Square. Francis Ford Coppola told me Madam Bali made the most exquisite, Armenian-style rack of lamb in pomegranate juice—you’ll even see it mentioned on the inside of this vintage book of Bali’s matches as sedlo (I still haven’t been able to find a vintage menu of Bali’s for my collection).

Etheredge wrote the subsequent chapter of the badass businesswoman legacy her mother started when she became the owner of the Tosca (from 1980 until 2013)—she made it the most authentically cool hangout in the City, the scene for the best stories (and many we’ll never know in the back room), the stuff SF late nights and foggy memories are made of. All were welcome, just don’t be a jerk (but that’s when you’d hear her withering one-liners).

Jeannette would keep an eye on things and who was coming in through the door with quick glances from behind her tinted gradient glasses while perched at her end of the bar (oh, those eyes that had seen everything). I would breathlessly wait for her to (hopefully, maybe) open the door to her office at some point so I could peer at all the remarkable cinematic memorabilia on the walls. It was like looking into the Lost Ark, or what was in Marsellus Wallace’s briefcase.

When Tosca was tragically teetering on the brink of closing (and Sean Penn helped broker a deal to save it), I wrote: “I love the moody ambiance, the opera on the jukebox, the white-jacketed waiters, the utterly hilarious Edith Head graffiti in the pink women’s bathroom, the occasional peek into Jeannette’s amazing and memorabilia-covered office (which needs to be shellacked and left exactly as it is). And let’s not forget the always entertaining cast of characters who wander in there. It was one of the last bars where I could still surreptitiously smoke after the ban (mind you, I quit over 10 years ago, but still).”

Jeannette cut and polished one of San Francisco’s most treasured and rare jewels, and we’ll always be grateful for that moment in time that felt like an indie film with the most unexpected ensemble cast. Raise your glass to this absolute icon of our city, the consummate host and storyteller (who intrinsically understood what to keep private). Share your stories of her widely, because Jeannette gave us a surfeit of quality material. A true character. If you want to send in any stories or memories or bon mots for me to read or share, please do.

For now, I’m signing off—see you next week.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Some Changes (Already) at the Newly Opened Golden Focaccia in Lower Nob Hill

Wow, well, that was fast. On Sunday afternoon, I was excited to bring my sister over to the new Golden Focaccia shop I wrote about last week so she could try a focaccia panino with me after our yin yoga class at nearby Alchemy Springs. It ends up that baker Marco Scabin has already left the project, and owner Omar Barkache is running the shop with his wife and other family members. Fortunately, they have the focaccia recipe, so the focaccia panini will continue, but they have made some changes to the original menu (the porchetta dip is gone, and they also changed the Boscaiolo I shared last week into another panino with different ingredients, FYI).

Another change: they swapped out the focaccia pizza al taglio and are now serving six kinds of pinsa romana instead.

Open 11am–8pm daily (until 8:30pm Fri–Sat). 881 Post St. at Hyde.

A Coming Soon Report and News Bites

Bar Brucato Is Unfortunately Closing This Weekend

The fine folks at Brucato Spirits (Sierra and James Clark) sent this update that they are sadly closing Bar Brucato this weekend, after opening it a little over a year ago: “We have made the difficult decision to close Bar Brucato. Our last day of service will be Saturday, June 20th. The goal of Bar Brucato has always been to showcase our lineup of amaros, liqueurs and craft spirits in a beautiful bar and restaurant setting. We could not be prouder of what we built! To that end, we want to expressly thank our General Manager, Rye Tondreault, for their incredible expertise and hard work overseeing our operations from day one, Executive Chef Mitchell Reichert for his calm and dedicated leadership of our kitchen, and Leila Malikyar for developing one of most inspired cocktail programs in San Francisco.

We are closing the bar and restaurant so that we can refocus our energy and passion on the Brucato Spirits Distillery, where we will continue to produce our amaros and other spirits in the same Mission District location. We are committed to keeping our distillery doors open and welcoming you into our space.

We are particularly excited to share the news that we hired Adam Hall as our Distillery Director. Adam previously worked as the distillery operations and facilities manager of the Hotaling & Co. Distillery on San Francisco’s Pier 50. He has already become an invaluable member of our team, bringing passion, knowledge, and humor to everything he does. Welcome, Adam!

While we will cancel this weekend’s Distillery Day, we are excited to continue to offer our distillery tours, our monthly open-house distillery days, and retail sales during distillery hours to our San Francisco community starting in July. And online sales of bottles and merch across the country remain. This is goodbye to Bar Brucato for now, but not forever. Bar Brucato will return at some point in the future, bolder and better than ever!”

This is such a bummer, because I really dug Bar Brucato’s talented, queer bar team (who made some damn good cocktails!), and I don’t want to imagine our lives without the cheese-paprika crackers. But, honestly speaking, I always thought the place would make the perfect hideout bar with a little reformatting—it’s so hard to run a successful small restaurant in SF. We’ll have to see what’s next for the space. 275 South Van Ness Ave.

Calling All Independent Restaurants, Food Trucks, and Caterers: You Have Two Weeks to Apply for a $5K Grant

Just making sure all you industry folks see this update from the San Francisco SBDC (Small Business Development Center): “The Restaurants Care Resilience Fund is offering $5,000 grants to independent restaurants and commercial caterers in select California counties to invest in kitchen equipment, technology upgrades, employee training, and unexpected hardships.

“Supported by PG&E and administered by the California Restaurant Foundation, these grants are designed to help restaurants strengthen their business, support their teams, and prepare for the future. To learn more about this grant and the application process from the PG&E community outreach representative, you can watch our webinar (minutes 11–25).” You can apply here (until June 30th). Go get that money, honey.

Some Ideas on Where to Take Your Pops for Father’s Day

There are all kinds of dads: the ones who love a good steak, while another may live for roast duck, or pizza, or lumpia. (Or, in the case of me and my sister: soccer.) Father’s Day is coming up this Sunday June 21st (the same day as our summer solstice), and here are some quick ideas for you.

Italian is always a hit, from the old-school Tommaso’s in North Beach (don’t miss the Coo Coo clams); as well as the updated North Beach Restaurant (with housemade tortellini in brodo); the all-day hours at A16 make it easy to visit for braised meatballs, springtime gnocchi with English peas, and a Berkshire pork chop; and 54 Mint is running a $65 family-style, prix-fixe menu, featuring zeppole di San Giuseppe (a cream-filled pastry traditionally made in honor of fathers and family).

the lush

The Upper Haight Will Be Swingin’ with Live Music and Shakin’ Cocktails Once Again with the Opening of The DeLuxe This Thursday

I’m so bummed I wasn’t feeling well enough to attend one of the pre-opening parties for The DeLuxe this week, which, pending a final permit, should be opening this Thursday June 18th—the classic neon sign inside the bar is lit and ready for you! Last fall, I wrote about the new owners restoring the legacy bar after it sadly closed in 2023: former Club Deluxe bartender and now co-owner Christian Beaulieu with Jay Bordeleau (Mr. Tipple’s Recording Studio). 

The bar dates back to the 1920s, and the duo have made many improvements, including a new sound system and lighting, and take a look at the updated murals by artist and musician Jon Weiss here (the old ones were sadly gone). I look forward to sharing details once I have a chance to swing by for some live jazz and a couple cocktails. Here’s to many more good times in that legendary space. Follow @thedeluxesf for updates. 1511 Haight St. at Ashbury.

sponsored event

Think & Drink at UNFILTERED, July 25th–26th at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley

Join more than 60 of California’s most compelling, independent winemakers for UNFILTERED, a weekend of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. From legendary pioneers like Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon), Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron), Angela Osborne (A Tribute to Grace), Ian Brand, Craig Haarmeyer, and Joe Davis (Arcadian), to a new generation of producers like Matt Crutchfield, Samuel Louis Smith, Justin Trabue (Ward Four), Coral Wang (Maison des Plaisances), Evan Lewandowski (Ruth Lewandowski), Sabrina Tamayo (Ruby Blanca), Cole Thomas (Madson), Brent Mayeaux (Stagiaire), and more, UNFILTERED offers a rare opportunity to really connect with the people behind some of California’s most distinctive wines.

At its heart, UNFILTERED is a gathering of winemakers, artists, farmers, chefs, and curious drinkers exploring the ideas and values shaping contemporary wine culture. Throughout the weekend, guests engage directly with winemakers through tastings, conversations, and panel discussions exploring farming, food, art, climate, culture, and the evolving identity of California wine.

Taste wines rarely found outside winery mailing lists, enjoy food pairings from local chefs, and experience the rich personalities and vibrant community of our independent winemakers. UNFILTERED takes place in a relaxed, intimate setting with easy access and ample parking.

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered

Tickets 🎟️: Day pass, $65; Weekend pass $95.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery: 1340 5th Street Berkeley

the matchmaker

Restaurant & Café Equipment Sale

2565 3rd Street, San Francisco

Stop by on Monday July 6th for a massive sale of food service equipment, including kitchen tools, baking pans, culinary machinery, drinkware, and much more. Front of the house and back of the house materials on sale, for a variety of operations. Open house–style from the hours of 11am–4pm, pricing individually listed but discounts provided for encouraged bulk purchases. Ranging from brand new to lightly used.

Larger equipment such as refrigerators, microwaves, and water heaters are also available. Enough equipment to open up a new café tomorrow. Reach out to (415) 602-4102 with any questions (please fill out this interest form).

the starlet

That’s all, folks! See you next week.

what’s cookin’

Good day, sunshine! What a nice change from the usual June gloom. Last night was the perfect evening to be on the rooftop of The Hotel Castro for a VIPride party (thanks to an invite from the Lobby Bar). I look forward to seeing how they develop the rooftop for future lounging with a cocktail in hand.

My wingwoman and I then lucked out enjoying even more of the balmy weather over dinner on the patio of the new Parasol at Cafe Flore—I didn’t even need my jacket at 8pm, a rarity in SF. While Parasol is still finding its groove, I thoroughly enjoyed my glass of Armenian sparkling wine from Keush, along with the supple rainbow carrots (perfect for Pride, LOL) with a muhamarra-inspired dressing (roasted pepper spread, walnuts, balsamic); a trio of tender and herbaceous chicken meatballs with tomato sauce ($14); and for larger appetites, there’s a generous bowl of gnocchi ($23) with walnut piperade spooned on top, plus a hit of funky Fontina, and Aleppo chile. Cardamom croissant bread pudding for dessert, done (save the strawberry tart for breakfast service).

Tonight is another lovely evening—you can follow my move and enjoy sitting at a table under the longtime wisteria vine. I’m happy to see the space back open in time for Pride (I’m going to head back to try brunch soon). And it was cute to see a vendor from the Wednesday Castro farmers’ market on Noe Street walk over to deliver some summer produce at the end of the market.

I love visiting the Castro during Pride month—the streets and bars are buzzin’. Last Saturday evening, I totally had a moment as I was driving up Market Street, watching the huge Pride flag and street banners flapping in the breeze, the pink triangle beaming like a beacon from Twin Peaks in the foggy distance. YES SF! Who knew I’d end the night partying in the green room underneath the Castro Theatre and dancing on stage with CarrieOnDisco and friends? San Frandisco is always an adventure.

The unfortunate adventure I’m currently enduring is with my (brand-new, ahem) laptop, which didn’t seem to like the latest macOS update. Yet again, I have lost hours talking to Apple support over the past few days. THE WORST. To save my sanity, I’m keeping this week’s issue short and sweet since the spinning beach ball arrives every minute and pauses my ability to write. (No, not frustrating at all.) I have even more Crapple support calls lined up, so I need to send this column off and get this laptop back in action before I throw it out the window.

Ciao for meow,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

A Legit Italian Focaccia Shop Opens in Lower Nob Hill, Serving Focaccia Panini and Pizza al Taglio

Thanks to my dear longtime friend and reader, Scott G., who tipped me off to a new sandwich and pizza shop in Lower Nob Hill, Golden Focaccia. With one look at the menu, I knew there were some real-deal Italians behind the project, and when I saw stracchino cheese in one of the sandwiches, I wondered if they were from the Veneto. On Sunday, I swung by to check it out, and met co-owner Marco Scabin, who’s originally from Vicenza, but lived in the Lido di Venezia. Bingo. That explains the bresaola (air-dried beef) as well. 

Scabin told me he has a passion for focaccia—he has worked as a chef in the culinary world for 25 years, and always made his own bread. His business partner is Omar Barkache—they both met while working together at Mona Lisa restaurant in North Beach.

You’ll see a menu of 11 different focaccia sandwiches (most are around $15.50), all on housemade focaccia (Marco tells me the dough is fermented for four days: two days for the biga, and two days of cold fermentation; the wet dough has 85 percent hydration, and a mix of two flours). This isn’t the super-fluffy style of focaccia you may recall from Specialty’s back in the day (LOL)—you’ll notice the airy hydration (which melds well with the sandwich toppings), the developed flavor, and the lightly golden exterior has a crisp texture that keeps your sandwich from falling apart.

I started with the Boscaiolo (prosciutto cotto, mushrooms, stracchino, mustard sauce)—the stacked ingredients were carefully layered and well-balanced between richness and acidity. It reminded me of the style of panini I’d get from a famous spot in Padova (Dalla Zita) when I was going to the University of Padova for my weekly Dante class. 30-plus years later, and I still remember those panini.

The focaccia panino was so good I returned the next day to try the Emilia Meets Puglia, which Marco said was one of his favorites: thin slices of pistachio mortadella, stracciatella, and pistachio dressing, the picture of decadent simplicity. 

What’s gonna be next? There’s a porchetta dip (although the It’s All About the Pork panino comes with porchetta, ’nduja, and roasted eggplant!). Yup, I will keep coming back.

As for the pizza, it’s Roman-style pizza al taglio on a focaccia base, and you choose which toppings to add and they heat up your slice (I saw slices of porchetta and potato in the case, sign me up). You can also order a whole pizza, and there are a couple salads, too. There are some tables inside, and a counter where you can perch and watch the street. Open 11am–8pm daily (until 8:30pm Fri–Sat). 881 Post St. at Hyde.

Esme Is Softly Opening, Bringing a French-Inspired Bistro to the Divisadero Corridor

New Openings Include the Return of Bánh Mì from the Sing Sing Coffee Shop Family and More 

Fans of the bánh mì from the closed Sing Sing Coffee Shop on Hyde in the Tenderloin can now find their famed $8 đặc biệt (and four more options) at the family’s new Banh Mi A Mui in the Inner Richmond/Laurel Heights (just across the street from Mel’s Drive-In). Open daily 7:30am–6pm. 3401 Geary Blvd. at Beaumont. 

Scott Morton (Momo’s) and his wife and business partner, Caitlyn, have opened Maggie and Mac’s (named after their kids) in the former Social Kitchen and Brewery in the Inner Sunset (which closed in March 2020). You can take a look at the approachable menu at this family-friendly and neighborhood space in Eater SF. 1326 9th Ave.

Upcoming Closures Include Anomaly SF, Park Tavern, Shuggie’s, DecantSF, and a Fire Temporarily Closes Che Fico

After running his pop-up, and then bootstrapping the opening of his brick-and-mortar restaurant, Anomaly SF, chef-owner Mike Lanham is closing the restaurant on June 20th. He cites in his post on Instagram: “I have some health issues I need to take care of as well as some family members I need to spend time with while I still have the opportunity.” After nine years of hustling hard to offer an ambitious Southern modern tasting menu that changed often with a tight team, here’s hoping he gets some rest and takes good care. I’m happy to see almost all of the reservations are booked until the closing night. Best wishes to the team. 2600 Sutter St.

Submitted without commentary: after taking over Park Tavern from former owner Anna Weinberg (who opened the restaurant with chef Jenn Puccio in 2011), and reopening it with chef Jonathan Waxman at the end of 2024, current owner James Nicholas announced the Washington Square restaurant is closing once again in a couple weeks. The final day of service is Sunday June 21st. 1652 Stockton St.

Well, this is a sad one to see: after bringing their color-saturated style and food waste mission and joyful energy to our dining scene, Shuggie’s owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy just announced they’re closing their Mission restaurant after four years (and numerous awards!). The duo has worked so hard to adapt to the changing times, from updating their concept from trash pies to a dinner party, with a generous happy hour, a $40 Wednesday prix-fixe menu, numerous fun events, a wine club, and so much more. Read their post to understand what contributed to the closure, which is happening on July 11th. You have a month to go show them some love. 3349 23rd St.

After dealing with countless problems (including a pandemic, shoplifting, and the general lawlessness of Folsom Street), DecantSF announced it’s closing on June 20th (you can still get a ticket for this Saturday’s Deluxe Queer pop-up dinner). Here’s my piece on the opening of this unique wine shop from Cara Patricia and Simi Grewal in the former City Beer Store (I can’t believe it was seven years ago, where does the time go?). The post mentions they’re focused on their new DECANT Napa bottle shop and bar: “We’re building something really good at 2999 Solano.” Thanks for the fun bubbles tastings and holiday events over the years—take good care, ladies. 1168 Folsom St. at 8th St.

Chef Dominique Crenn announced via Instagram the end of Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn, their midweek, 12-course, French omakase menu service with pairings. In her post, she says they’re evolving and going to expand the menu with new dishes and cocktails, while providing a more welcoming atmosphere for guests to settle in at the bar. Future collaborations are also mentioned. According to their reservations book, you can book the Le Comptoir experience Tue–Thu through June 30th.

My sister informed me yesterday that there was smoke billowing from the rooftops of Che Fico and Foghorn Taproom on Divisadero, and, unfortunately, Che Fico has suffered significant damage from a fire that reportedly started in their chimney flue—thankfully, no one was injured. Stand by for updates on their reopening; Foghorn Taproom has since reopened.

Where Are You Watching World Cup?

sponsored event

Think & Drink at UNFILTERED, July 25th–26th at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley

Join more than 60 of California’s most compelling, independent winemakers for UNFILTERED, a weekend of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. From legendary pioneers like Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon), Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron), Angela Osborne (A Tribute to Grace), Ian Brand, Craig Haarmeyer, and Joe Davis (Arcadian), to a new generation of producers like Matt Crutchfield, Samuel Louis Smith, Justin Trabue (Ward Four), Coral Wang (Maison des Plaisances), Evan Lewandowski (Ruth Lewandowski), Sabrina Tamayo (Ruby Blanca), Cole Thomas (Madson), Brent Mayeaux (Stagiaire), and more, UNFILTERED offers a rare opportunity to really connect with the people behind some of California’s most distinctive wines.

At its heart, UNFILTERED is a gathering of winemakers, artists, farmers, chefs, and curious drinkers exploring the ideas and values shaping contemporary wine culture. Throughout the weekend, guests engage directly with winemakers through tastings, conversations, and panel discussions exploring farming, food, art, climate, culture, and the evolving identity of California wine.

Taste wines rarely found outside winery mailing lists, enjoy food pairings from local chefs, and experience the rich personalities and vibrant community of our independent winemakers. UNFILTERED takes place in a relaxed, intimate setting with easy access and ample parking.

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered

Tickets 🎟️: Day pass, $65; Weekend pass $95.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery: 1340 5th Street Berkeley

the lush

Big News on 22nd Street: The Make-Out Room and Latin American Club Are Up for Sale After 30 Years

I noticed some activity on the Make-Out Room’s liquor license a few months ago and wondered what was coming. Well, after 30 years, the SF Chronicle reports owner Martin Rapalski is ready to retire and is selling both the Make-Out Room and the Latin American Club. Rapalski is committed to finding the right buyer to preserve each location, but who knows how all that will shake out.

Ah, so many blurry memories at the Make-Out Room, so many great bands and DJs and parties, so many late-night drinks (famously without straws, for years), heck, I smoked my last cigarette indoors at the Make-Out Room after the ban went into effect in 1998. Are you really a San Franciscan if you haven’t been bit by the margaritas at the worn wood bar at the Latin? It’s hard to even imagine 22nd Street without the legit, laid-back Mission cool of these two spots. Thanks for all the good times. Here’s hoping these two gems go to the right hands. (You can read some more backstory in this Mission Local post.) 3225 22nd St. and 3286 22nd St.

the socialite

Join Me at San Francisco Magazine’s 25th Annual Best of the Bay Party

Whatcha doing on Saturday July 11th? I’ll be attending San Francisco magazine’s 25th Annual Best of the Bay at The Conservatory at One Sansome, and I’d love for you to join me.

This premiere event brings together the Bay Area’s top chefs and restaurants (like Dalida, A16, Boulevard, and Elena’s) and beverage partners (including Redwood Empire Whiskey and Tansy Wines) for a lively evening of exceptional food, cocktails, entertainment (from ODC Dancers and SFJAZZ), and immersive experiences.

As Best of the Bay celebrates its 25th anniversary, this year’s event will also recognize the Union Square Foundation as its official beneficiary.

VIP entry: 6pm; general admission: 7pm.

🎟️ Tickets: sfbestofthebay.splashthat.com

The Conservatory at One Sansome, 1 Sansome Street, San Francisco, CA 94104

the starlet

Howdy, dear readers. Thanks for waiting for me, it has been a WEEK. Whew. I hoped to wrap this up and send this beast out yesterday, but I needed to scoot over to Nopa’s 20th anniversary blowout last night. There’s much to say about that joyous celebration of their beautiful community (it felt like an industry wedding reception); I’d like to share more thoughts later. But for now, we love you, Nopa! Cheers to 20!

Happy Pride Month! This time of year always gets me revved up to be in community and go dancing, and let’s just say there are some things I know we all need to shake off together. This week’s column was powered by CarrieOnDisco’s Flaggin’ in the Park mix (especially Part Two)—it has some chuggers that will get you into the Pride party spirit real quick. This Saturday, I’m fired up to kick things off with CarrieOnDisco and Horse Meat Disco (with DJ M3) playing a sold-out party at The Castro Theatre. It’ll be cool to experience a Pride dance party for the first time in the historic space. 

It’s also great that Frameline (the longest-running LGBTQ+ film exhibition event in the world) was able to return to The Castro Theatre in time for their 50th anniversary (since 1976)! Check out the calendar for screenings (June 17th–27th).

This past weekend, I was craving the homey Indonesian cooking and warm hospitality from Joe Sutikno-Sharp and his husband, Chris Sharp, at the easygoing Rasa Rasa Kitchen in the Mission. I wrote about this heartfelt corner restaurant in honor of Pride last year, and it was such a pleasure to return to their signature beef rendang, restorative soto Kediri, and balado/sambal eggplant, while trying their tasty fried pompano fish for the first time (with a trio of their sambals that mean business). I was touched when Joe sent over a bowl of his spicy staff meal for me to try: lodeh, a slow-cooked vegetable stew of green beans and eggplant topped with baby anchovies. Yup, he really feeds you with his big heart—get some friends together and go feast, and you’ll walk out of there feeling nourished in many ways.

I have to front-load a bunch of Pride festivities to early in the month since I’m going to be attending a few World Cup matches with my Dad and sister in the second half of June. Allez allez! We’re bouncing down to LA for Switzerland vs. Bosnia and Herzegovina, and then we head back up for Turkey vs. Paraguay at Levi’s Stadium, and then we’re off to Seattle for Bosnia and Herzegovina vs. Qatar. It’s going to be a blast—our Dad is in full Carmen form when it’s World Cup (here’s another pic of him when we went to World Cup in Russia in 2018). The timing of these matches couldn’t be better with Father’s Day coming up. Wait until you see the custom T-shirts I had made for him. 

One last thing before we dive into the news: I know we’re finally free from the onslaught of midterm election mailers in our mailbox, but now we need to put our attention on this important call to action from Foodwise: “The Market Match program, which doubles the purchasing power of CalFresh EBT benefits at farmers markets across California, is under threat. Funding for Market Match was not included in the Governor’s proposed 2026-27 state budget. Without funding, this vital program could disappear—and with it, the fresh, local food access that so many families in our community depend on. Amid sweeping federal cuts to SNAP, Market Match is needed more than ever.

“Market Match is a triple win: Every time a Market Match dollar is spent at a farmers market, it contributes to a local farmer’s livelihood, nourishes a family in need, and supports our regional economies. Statewide, Market Match represented $25 million in fresh, healthy food for CalFresh shoppers and income for small farms last year alone.

The deadline for California’s legislature to finalize the budget is June 15, which means the next couple of weeks are critical. Here’s how you can help. It takes just a few minutes!
- WRITE to Governor Newsom and Budget Leaders (less than 1 minute)
- CALL Governor Newsom and Budget Leaders (high impact! and online tool makes it easy for you)
- POST on social media and SHARE this email with friends, family, and anyone who cares about local farms, healthy communities, and economic equity

Thank you for standing up for Market Match, for our farmers, and for every family that deserves access to fresh, nutritious food.”

Thanks for showing up in all the ways you do.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Subscriber Exclusive: A First Look at Bar Malone’s, a New SoMa Neighborhood Bar from Industry Pros

Softly open now in the former District on Townsend in SoMa (which closed in 2025, after a respectable 18-year run) is Bar Malone’s. This stylish cocktail bar was designed to serve the neighborhood with high hospitality from local restaurant and bar industry veterans: longtime friends and business partners Gabriel Freiberg and Eric Passetti (Natoma Cabana and Yerba Buena Bar).

Soft-opening hours are Tue–Sat 3pm–10pm, extending soon until midnight Thu–Sat. Bar bites will be available 3pm–5pm, and eventually after 10pm. Sunday brunch and dinner will be coming in July. Follow @BarMalones for updates. 216 Townsend St.

Noodle in a Haystack Sadly Closes Its Doors on Geary, But Will Open a New Door at Thrive City: Mazé by Noodle in a Haystack

Friends and regulars of the almost-impossible-to-book Noodle in a Haystack have been coming into the Outer Richmond restaurant to say farewell to the ramen-centered tasting menu and highly personal hospitality from husband-and-wife owners Clint and Yoko Tan as they wrap up their past three-plus years in their hard-won location. They were previously hosting a pop-up out of their Daly City home—I wrote about the many challenges of their restaurant opening at 4601 Geary Boulevard for Nob Hill Gazette in 2022. 

I reached out a couple weeks ago to find out why they were closing, which felt a bit unexpected in light of the amazing accolades they have been receiving from The New York Times, Bon Appétit, Michelin, and more. Clint shared they couldn’t maintain the overextended pace they’ve been holding for the past 10 years, and “finally got some opportunities we couldn’t turn down.” He mentioned they were “planning 1 or 2 or maybe 3 new restaurants and we just needed to step away so we can focus on the new projects.”

I couldn’t get any more info from him, and now, the first of those projects has just been revealed: Mazé by Noodle in a Haystack will be opening in Thrive City late this year. They’re launching this modern ramen concept in partnership with Vine Hospitality and CEO Alistair Levine (Left Bank, Petite Left Bank, LB Steak, and Meso Modern Mediterranean). 

The press release states: “Mazé is derived from the Japanese word meaning “to mix” or “to blend,” paired with Men, meaning “noodle.” Together, the name refers to a style of ramen focused on mixing noodles with sauces, oils, toppings, and textures before enjoyment.”

Over the past decade, the couple has been obsessively developing and finessing recipes showcasing various styles of ramen, crafting their own style of modern ramen that blends Japanese inspiration and Californian influences, from their iconic yuzu shio ramen (versions 1.0, 2.0, and 3.0!), to duck shoyu, to tsukemen, to XO tori paitan, to A5 wagyu abura soba, plus their riffs on dry-style (brothless) mazemen, which is what they’ll be highlighting in this fast-casual location (their spicy maze tan tan men is incredible). The mazemen will be served alongside small plates (here’s hoping for their deviled eggs) and desserts. 

Stand by for more details as the project gets closer to opening. Best wishes to Clint and Yoko on this new chapter of their noodle journey.

News Bites: Piedays, Goop Kitchen, New Omakase Takeout Boxes, Monday Dinners

Cawfee Tawk: New Openings, What’s Coming Soon, and an Anniversary 

Over in Oakland: this week is the third anniversary of The Caffè by Mr. Espresso, and, of course, they’ve been featuring all kinds of new drink collaborations with local chefs and makers, plus sweet treats and pastry pop-ups to pair with them, including a gelato flight this weekend with Patrizia Pasqualetti. 1120 Broadway, Oakland.

Closures Include a Couple Neighborhood Old-Timers

I was surprised and sad to learn that OG sushi mainstay, Restaurant Eiji in the Castro, has closed after 20 years. Chef-owner Eiji Onoda has retired, and many regulars will miss the ikebana arrangements by his wife, Hidemi. Known for their housemade oboro tofu (with a fun presentation of toppings) and famed strawberry mochi for dessert, I always thought Eiji had some of the best aji (Spanish mackerel) and kohada when it was in season. It was such a homey and humble little spot that delivered quality without pretense—they hosted so many first dates! Best wishes to the couple on their next chapter. (At least Sam Smith was able to check it out right before it closed at the end of March.) 317 Sanchez St.

Another neighborhood mainstay has closed after 25 years: Lupa Trattoria in Noe Valley. Roman chef-owner Stefano Coppola served hearty portions of lasagna and housemade pappardelle with lamb at neighborhood-friendly prices. There is already a taker for the space: an ABC license transfer lists Michael Ho of Perilla, who has a location of his fast-casual Vietnamese concept in the Lower Haight, serving all kinds of proteins (like five-spice chicken) with garlic noodles and imperial rolls. (The original Perilla is on Irving Street, but lists a different owner.) 4109 24th St.

Eater SF reported Ayesha Curry and Michael Mina’s International Smoke in the Millennium Tower has closed. After renovating the space, The Mina Group will be opening Neighborhood Test Kitchen in its place in the fall, hosting rotating chefs and concepts every four to six months. 301 Mission St.

Alix Wall reports in the J. Weekly that Super Mensch in the Marina closed this past weekend after eight months. Chef-partner Adam Rosenblum told J.: “We thought we had the answers to put a full-service restaurant into a 500-square-foot space with no hood and tried everything we know how to make it work. But at the end of the day, we weren’t able to accomplish it to meet our standards.” People will still be able to order off the Super Mensch menu for private events in the space or catering. 2336 Chestnut St.

the socialite

Celebrate and Explore Over 25 Black-Owned Businesses at Juneteenth on the Waterfront This Sunday

This Sunday June 7th is the sixth annual Pop-Ups on the Plaza: Juneteenth on the Waterfront at the Ferry Plaza in front of the San Francisco Ferry Building (9am–2pm). This year’s event will take place on a Sunday to accommodate more vendors and activities than ever before. 

This free community event will celebrate with 25+ local and Black-owned, food-and-craft businesses, such as Gumbo Social, The Final Sauce, A Girl Named Pinky, Lil Alijo’s, and more (reading through the lineup is going to give you some serious hunger pangs). There’s also a craft market featuring Black designers from the Fillmore-based In The Black marketplace, free cooking demos with chefs Nelson German and Andréa Lawson Gray (from Caribbean Cocktails:Drinks and Bites from the Afro-Latino Diaspora), and Tatiana Thomas, plus family activities, live music, and more.

Juneteenth on the Waterfront is part of a month of festivities in San Francisco surrounding Juneteenth National Independence Day (June 19th), including celebrations in the Fillmore (June 14th), Bayview (June 21st), and the Juneteenth Parade (June 20th).

Pride in SF Is Going to Have You Busy All Month

OK, gang, Pride month is here, and the City is poppin’ with events, special menus, fundraisers, marches, vigils, and more, leading up to the 56th Annual San Francisco Pride Parade on Sunday June 28th, 2026. We protest and we party, we protect and we celebrate. Be sure to pack your wallet with cash money all month—tip the queens and your bartenders, honey.

Already underway this week is the return of the SF Queer Art & Music Festival, featuring nightly events like comedy, drag, DJ Stanley Frank at Rye, cocktails at Propagation, and Tokimonsta at Jones! Through June 7th.

Last night was the First Thursday art walk in the TenderNob, and Rosebud Gallery is featuring their third annual Affordable Pride Show, with work from 100 queer artists, and all artwork is priced $399 and under. The exhibition is up through June 26th. 839 Larkin St.

Enjoy some color therapy all Pride month at Nightbird, where chef Kim Alter is showcasing a color of the rainbow in each course of her June tasting menu, like pink rhubarb with elderflower, and red raspberry and beets with squab. A portion of the menu’s proceeds will be donated to The Trevor Project, the leading suicide prevention and crisis intervention nonprofit organization for LGBTQ+ young people. 

Pictured above is one of chef Kim’s reflection courses from her ‘Sustainably Spring’ menu—she uses local ingredients from the previous course in the subsequent course to reduce waste. The tart shell is made with juice from carrot trimmings, and filled with chopped chamomile-poached lobster and fava beans, garnished with sliced apricot to reflect the smoked apricot purée from the prior course.

There are only a few tickets left for the Big Gay Dumpling Party at 18 Reasons with chef Henry Hsu this Saturday June 6th (6pm–10pm). You’ll learn how to make rainbow dumplings with a variety of fillings from scratch, and you get to feast on the fruits of your labor at the end. And on Saturday June 20th, there are a few spots left for the Friends and Family Pride Pop Up with chef Gaby Maeda (formerly State Bird Provisions) and Blake Cole, with bites (Les Eggs will be there!), drinks, dishes, and desserts.

Next Saturday June 13th, Starbelly in the Castro will host its Bacon & Leggs Drag Brunch, featuring performances hosted by Bobby Friday, and they’re pouring a limited-time Aperol Spritz: Pride Edition with edible glitter (it should look fabulous in your teeth). Proceeds will support local LGBTQ+ nonprofit Queer LifeSpace. Reserve here.

This June, probably the busiest queen I can think of is Juanita MORE!, who’s hosting and attending MORE! events than most people go to in a year. A tireless philanthropist, Miss MORE! has helped raise over $1.5 million for local San Francisco charities, and this year, the beneficiary of her annual Pride party and numerous Pride events is the GLBT Historical Society. Founded in 1985, the GLBT Historical Society is a global leader in LGBTQ+ public history, often called the “queer Smithsonian.” The Society collects, preserves, exhibits, and makes accessible to the public materials and knowledge to support and promote understanding of LGBTQ+ history, culture, and arts in all their diversity.

Have you ever been to the GLBT Historical Society Museum in the Castro? It’s full of incredible ephemera, including a piece of one of the two original rainbow flags by Gilbert Baker with eight stripes, first raised on June 25th, 1978, in United Nations Plaza at the San Francisco Gay Freedom Day Parade. Go visit.

Starting this week, Miss MORE! launched the return of her FLOOR21 happy hours (which she first hosted 10 years ago!) at Starlite at the Beacon Grand Hotel. Every Thursday in June, you can enjoy the gorgeous view, performances and music from top SF talent (including Dulce De Leche, Mary Vice, Miss Rahni, Sir Joq), and specialty cocktails by Scott Baird and guest queer bartenders. A portion of the proceeds from the series and 25 percent of proceeds from every Juanita MORE! cocktail sold (a spin on a blackberry smash) will benefit the GLBT Historical Society, her partner in the monthlong series.

Every Thursday in June, 5pm–7pm (reserve your spot here). Limited walk-in availability. No cover. All-vinyl DJs will take over and keep things going until 11pm. 450 Powell St, 21st floor.

Then, on Sunday June 21st, MORE! is hosting a Pride kickoff/Sunday’s a Drag brunch and dance party (with DJs David Harness and Cupcake), with a special menu/culinary pop-up by chef Tucker Ricchio, Bay Area native, winner of Season 2 of Next Level Chef, and currently part of the team at two-Michelin-starred Acquerello. The menu includes a deviled egg flight, a spin on fried chicken and waffles, pork belly bites, caviar service, and MORE! 12pm–4pm. Table reservations; GA/standing reservations.

The annual Stories from Home collaboration of Juanita MORE! at MERKADO will be Wednesday June 17th, coming together to celebrate Pride and support the GLBT Historical Society. Enjoy a family dinner with the community, featuring Juanita’s menu items: the MOREburger, which combines her mother’s poblano chile relleno and love of a late-night burger, and her dreamy tres leches cake, plus DJ Miguelitooo, performances by Xochitl and Juannina Million, cocktails, and cackles! It’s a good time. Reserve here. 130 Townsend St.

And then there’s Miss MORE!’s annual Pride Party, which she has been hosting at 620 Jones since 2012. It’s always such a blowout, packed with performances, great DJs, décor, and is my favorite reunion of SF party people. It sells out, so get your advance tickets (while they last) at the treasured indie shop locations listed here ($60 cash). Tickets will be available at the door on the day of the event. 12pm–7pm.

Something new this year: activist Alex U. Inn and Juanita MORE! announced that the People’s March & Rally, in partnership with Indivisible San Francisco, San Francisco Dyke March, SF Dykes on Bikes® WMC, and SF Pride, will host the Trans Ally Rally, where everyone will march and rally on Pride Saturday (June 27th) to stand up for and celebrate the trans community. It starts at Embarcadero Plaza (Market St. and Steuart) at 10am, marching at 10:30am, and ending at Civic Center at the People’s March Stage for a rally, with live music and performances, all proudly supported by The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence. (12pm–5pm)

I’ll be sharing more Pride events, special dishes and drinks, and ways to support and show up for the community in the coming weeks!

the sugar mama

You Could Be Happy: Enter to Win Guest List Action to See Paul Oakenfold and The Crystal Method at The Regency Ballroom This Saturday!

Is it 1995? Nope, it’s 2026, and Paul Oakenfold and The Crystal Method are stopping by and going off at The Regency Ballroom in San Francisco for their coast-to-coast United Champions Tour (now with Liquid Todd) this Saturday June 6th. 

I have one pair of tickets to give away to the show (doors at 7pm, show at 8pm, 18+).

the starlet

what’s cookin’

Howdy, hoppers. And wow, it’s Friday evening. Hellllloooooo, short week! Thanks for bearing with me on the late send this week. After the much-needed long weekend (we really need to make those a regular thang), which included such a fun day at BottleRock (read more below), I had a personal matter to attend to this week that took priority over everything. I’ll be back with the news in next week’s column (which will also be on the late train since I’m attending my great Aunt Helen’s memorial service in Sacramento on Monday). Sometimes, you just gotta take things one day at a time.

For today’s column, I have the remainder of my New York City jetsetter recap for you rad supporting subscribers (wait until you see Le Veau d’Or!). Don’t read this if you’re hungry.

A few notes before we take another bite of The Big Apple: 

-Cheers, baby: this weekend is Wine Fare!

-Fridays are better with pizza from Fatty Natty.

-Saturdays are all about peaches and cherries from the Foodwise Ferry Plaza farmers market.

-This Saturday afternoon/evening, my friends behind Werkbird are frying chicken at El Rio for EW.

-Have a look at Matthew Kang’s report on the North America’s 50 Best Restaurants list reveal ceremony last night (O Canada!). The New York Times also shares a little context on the list, as well as their own take on The 25 Best Restaurants in San Francisco Right Now (25 places is impossible to whittle down to, but there are a lot of recently opened gems missing).

-I am beside myself with pure unbridled joy that Despacio is returning to Portola Music Festival this September 26th–27th. Thank you, disco heavens for that alignment! (I like to think Sylvester had something to do with it.) Although I’m sure the lineup of Robyn, DJ Shadow celebrating 30 years of Endtroducing…, Soulwax, Tricky, Four Tet, Groove Armada, Parcels, and Fcukers will all be amazing, for me, nothing compares to being in Despacio. I will be in that tent the entire weekend.

You can read my recap from last year’s Portola of this life-changing, soul-affirming, and incomparable musical experience (which I ended up chasing to iii Points at Miami a month later for another ride, it was that moving). Take a look at the incredible gallery of images from iii Points that Babycakes Romero just dropped, and you’ll see a few pics of yours truly having the time of her goddamn life with her Big Despacio Fan and wingwoman sister-from-another-mister, Diamond Lil. There are some swell behind-the-scenes peeks in that post, too. What a banquet.

I swore to myself I would never miss another Despacio, no matter when and where it was happening, and lucky me/us, it’s gonna be in our backyard once again. It’s such a gift. Don’t miss it. (Read my friend Vlad’s post on Magical Dancefloors for even more convincing and deep Despacio storytelling.) 

Tickets for Portola are on sale Tuesday June 2nd at 12pm. Party People Loyalty Presale for past Portola purchasers starts on Monday June 1st at 12pm. Register! And to my dear disco friends, I better see you on the dance floor. I mean it. You’ve heard me talk about this so much. POSSE UP. Despacio is happiness, something we all need in spades right now.

-In the meantime, don’t miss Total Accord Fest in June, The Seshen and Brijean are playing! And the prices are right.

-Book your reservation for Welly Wednesdays at Dingles.

-Please don’t tell me it’s true, this post says that Held Over on Haight is closing. It’s (reportedly) SF’s oldest vintage store, since 1978. An absolute gem of our vintage scene. Nooooooo. No!

-Don’t forget to vote on Tuesday! At this point, drop your ballot off in person at a drop box or polling place, don’t try to mail it.

Have a swell weekend. Glad it’s already here.

XO
~Marcia

the jetsetter

New York City: Part Two

This second installment of my springtime trip to New York covers a couple iconic French bistros that could only exist in New York, plus some tasty heroes, and a damn good slice. Supporting subscribers can read part one here. 

Besides Bartolo, the other restaurant that was top of my New York must-visit list was Le Veau d’Or (129 E. 60th St.), an Upper East Side/Lenox Hill restaurant that first opened in 1937, and was recently taken over and given a loving and respectful update from restaurateurs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson (Frenchette, Le Rock), which reopened in 2024.

Step inside and it feels like a time capsule from 1930’s Paris or a century-old Lyonnaise bouchon. It’s the oldest French bistro in New York City, which used to draw customers like Ernest Hemingway, Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly, and Oleg Cassini (a current obsession of mine). As a lover of vintage restaurants and cuisine and history, I couldn’t wait to dine there. 

Hope to see you again soon, New York. I won’t let so much time pass next time—you really fill my cup.

the socialite

I Love Rock ’n’ Roll: Daytripping to BottleRock

Last weekend, it was so much fun to return to BottleRock, even for just a day—the last time I attended, it was in 2015 to see Robert Plant! Yeah, things have definitely changed. I drove up on Saturday to meet up with some longtime friends, and after a couple small snafus with parking and media check-in, I still managed to catch the last half of Joan Jett and the Blackhearts’ set.

Damn, she is my new spirit animal, such a boss punk babe at 67. Whatever she’s doing, it’s working. Crimson and clover, over and over.

I’m so glad my music-head friend made sure I knew about Midnight Generation, an electro-funk-disco band (with some vintage synth-heavy and prog rock influences) from Chihuahua, Mexico. Their live set was so groovy and fun, they totally got us movin’. Would love to see them again. Don’t miss their tour!

MG was a terrific warmup to LCD Soundsystem on the main stage. It was a full-on dance party, thanks to them playing some of their older tracks (“Tribulations,” “Movement,” “Yr City’s a Sucker,” “On Repeat”) for the longtime fans who like to rock out (yeah, me), and I’m always happy to party to Sound of Silver (“Time to Get Away,” and “North American Scum” was the perfect choice for the moment right now), and they also gave the kids what they wanted (“All My Friends”), as well as “Dance Yrself Clean” and “Home.” Shut up and play the hits! 

Singer-keyboardist Nancy Whang just gets cooler every time I see her play. Personally, I think James Murphy (who was wearing a baseball cap, weird) was a little miffed they weren’t the closing headliner for the day—he kept on adding odd banter like he was some strange, off-Broadway cabaret act that the band would be wrapping up soon enough, and he was grateful for everyone in the crowd who was sticking it out, since they were just killing time for the Foo Fighters. Um, no.

We capped off the day on a side stage and went back almost 30 years in a hip-hop time machine with Arrested Development, serving up “Give a Man a Fish” and “Mr. Wendal” with a much-needed side of political commentary about ICE and how the current administration is taking voting rights away. Preach, Speech! Raise those fists in the air!

The BottleRock crowd reflects the lineup: eclectic and across all ages. I dig it. We got lucky with the weather (it was a perfect low-to-mid 70s on Saturday), and the real and synthetic turf throughout the festival grounds makes for a pleasant experience (barely any dust and dirt). I was happy to discover they were pouring a pleasant sparkling wine from Emmolo at the general drink stands (this is what happens when you host a festival in Napa Valley)—I wish Outside Lands and Portola did this. Give us the bubbles everywhere!

As for the food lineup, I had limited time to check things out since I was just there for the afternoon, but the team at Under-Study in St. Helena kindly invited us (thank you!) to swing by their disco-ball-outfitted booth to try their popular lobster corn dog with remoulade and a healthy serving of Tsar Nicoulai caviar ($34). While it’s deserving of its festival fame, as a BottleRock-experienced friend predicted, the real winner is the pretzel and crab dip ($22): the buttery and seeded pretzel was made like pain d’épi, so clever, and the smoked onion dip was reminiscent of the one we all know and love (break out the Ruffles), but with the luxe addition of Dungeness crab. The ahi tuna nachos ($22) needed some work—the toppings were sparse and oddly cut, so they didn’t quite come together for that nacho magic. I should have returned for their nitro French fry soft-serve—next time! 🍦

Become a tablehopper supporting subscriber and don’t miss a bite!

what’s cookin’

Good day, sunshine. What a wonderful start to the week with this weather! I feel like my past weekend in Forestville was my kickoff to summer: I got to float down the Russian River on my friends’ party raft that comfortably fit four of us, we enjoyed alfresco brunch and epic snack boards on my friends’ sunny deck, and had a dreamy wine tasting under an old walnut tree at Porter-Bass Winery (just outside of downtown Guerneville) while learning the history of the land and the vines. 

Saturday was a total blast: we headed into Healdsburg for The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting during the annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. I stuck with bubbles for most of the day (I know, shocking), and had fun trying some N/A selections (the single-origin sparkling teas from Susurrus were a standout, as well as the verjus-based elderflower and yuzu sparkling from Glasrose). 

The food was extra-tasty this year: we noshed on decadent o’toro handrolls with uni and caviar from Hotel del Coronado in San Diego (and now I really want to go there!), wood-roasted mortadella meatballs from Stella Kenwood, incredible Westholme wagyu brisket smoked over red wine barrel staves and almond wood from A&M BBQ in Sebastopol, The Pasta Queen’s Devil’s Kiss rigatoni, and chicken Parm ravioli with roasted garlic tomato butter, three-cheese fonduta, and chicken skin crumble from chef Joe Sasto and Ian Tecklin’s Ripi Foods (I need the entire line in my freezer).

The mind-blowing finale at the end of the day was the aloha affogato from chef Lee Ann Wong of Koko Head Cafe (in Honolulu, Tokyo, and Osaka) with local Mariapilar coconut gelato, sweet Maui Gold pineapple, salted coconut rum caramel, macadamia coconut crumble, topped with a Kona espresso martini shot. I knowwwww! It was unbelievably delicious.

It was fun to run into chef Roland Passot and his lovely wife, Jamie, as well as longtime industry pals, like Scott Beattie (serving his special floral ice at the Rue de Rêve table), and getting a hug from my old friend Walter Moore, as well as from dedicated tablehopper subscriber and friend Adam (of Fog City News). Everyone was watching Festus Ezeli roam the festival (at 6'11", you really can’t miss him), and shoutout to Graffeo for keeping us caffeinated. Save the date: next year’s HWFE is May 20th–23rd, 2027! 

This weekend, I’m heading back up to Wine Country, this time on the Napa Valley side for BottleRock (you know I can’t miss seeing LCD Soundsystem—and Nancy Whang will be playing in the roller rink on Saturday). It’s not just the musical lineup that attendees are looking at: the just-announced 2026 Williams Sonoma Culinary Stage lineup includes Emeril and EJ Lagasse, José Andrés, Curtis Stone, Andrew Zimmern, Masaharu Morimoto, Evan Funke, Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, and The Pasta Queen, along with Chelsea Handler (I hope to run into her so we can exchange gummies, LOL), Phil Rosenthal, Ashley Graham, and John Stamos (how eclectic). KCBS Foodie Chap Liam Mayclem is gonna be bizzeeee emceeing the culinary stage.

The food lineup includes Napa restaurants like PRESS (and Under-Study), Mustards Grill, A16, Slanted Door Napa, Taqueria Rosita, La Toque, Stateline Road Smokehouse, Carabao, Torc, Oenotri, Empress M, and Boon Fly Café. Popsicles from Fruta Ice Cream seem like a must, as well as trying the signature mango float from Carabao. I’ll be hitting up Schramsberg Vineyards for some bubs, and I’m curious about the N/A beers from Athletic Brewing Company. All festival tickets are sold out, but to get on the waiting list for tickets, select “Join the Waitlist.” Hope to see you there!

This week, I was planning to run part two of my New York City jetsetter post for you, but I had a bunch of news bites and events to cover. This newsletter got too long. Stand by! Next week, I will also be sharing some SF PRIDE events to have on your radar.

Before signing off, I want to link to this obituary for the visionary Bob Vorhees, who was behind iconic SF projects in the ’90s, like South Park Cafe, Ristorante Ecco, Citizen Cake, and Universal Cafe. Thanks for the memories! I’m writing about a couple new projects near South Park in today’s column, so it’s good to see some businesses open over there—that area used to be so cool.

Anyway, here’s wishing you a good three-day weekend (tablehopper will go out a bit later next week). Just a reminder: you have one more week to visit the 2026 San Francisco Decorator Showcase. And the 48th annual San Francisco Carnaval takes place this Memorial Day weekend.

Have fun,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Casa Sofia Opens This Thursday (Just in Time for the SF Giants Home Games This Weekend)

I previously mentioned Casa Sofia Kitchen and Bar is coming to SoMa in the former The Brixton from chef Carlos Altamirano and his wife and partner, Shu Altamirano, and it’s opening this Thursday May 21st. Here are more dishes that are on his menu of California cuisine with Latin American influences from Peru, Mexico, and Argentina: Sofia’s meatballs with Mexican mole; ceviche peruano with halibut, rocoto chile, choclo, and long, sweet potato chips; arroz con mariscos with octopus, shrimp, clams, mussels, and fish in saffron aji rice; and easy-to-share plates like raw oysters, housemade empanadas, baby BBQ pork ribs, fried chicken, anticuchos, and a seafood tower with tuna, oysters, kampachi, shrimp, octopus, and mussels.

Desserts from Edgar Valenzuela include lavender honey–glazed crullers, guava cheesecake, arroz con leche brûlée with Peruvian rice pudding, Key lime pie, and rotating ice cream made in house. Cocktails from Yuri Chauca are focused around rum, pisco, cachaça and mezcal, including a caipirinha de gengibre with cachaça, lime, fresh ginger, muddled basil, and sugar (I was drinking these every day on the beach in Ipanema, so good), alongside the Rabo de Galo, with aged cachaça, sweet vermouth, Fernet Branca, Angostura and orange bitters.

The well-appointed and airy 146-seat space was designed by Jon de la Cruz, taking some inspiration from traditional Latin American fondas (with tiled floors, a patio surrounded by lush greenery, and a mural in the dining room), adding custom woodwork and wallpaper, channel-tufted upholstered booths, and two private dining spaces (Sofia’s Room for 40 guests and a 12-seat chef’s table). Open Tue–Thu and Sun 11am–9pm, and Fri–Sat 11am–10pm. 701 2nd St. at Townsend.

Let’s Get Baked: Saltwater Bakeshop Now Open in SoMa, Flour & Branch Has a New Home, and Loquat Is Opening a Sequel

Our city’s embedded bakery reporter, Becky Duffett, wrote about the unexpected opening of the first brick-and-mortar location of Saltwater Bakeshop in SoMa in the former Chantal Guillon Macarons (owner and baker Brittany Dunn Holden had to abandon her original Richmond bakery-café location after permitting snafus and endless delays). For the current soft opening, the menu includes croissants (classic, almond, ham and Point Reyes Toma cheese, and chocolate-pistachio), an orange blossom cardamom bun, passionfruit kouign amann, mochi muffins, seasonal cakes and Danishes, and chocolate chunk cookies, plus baguettes, and all kinds of sourdough bread (country, seeded, whole wheat, sunflower oat porridge, spelt and cornmeal). There’s also the baker’s choice: a smaller, organic sourdough loaf in a seasonal flavor (the spring flavor is four cheese with garlic confit fougasse).

After the grand opening on Saturday May 30th, there will be even more pastries, espresso drinks from Ritual Coffee, spiced chai, and sandwiches (from a breakfast BEC to lunchtime baguettes with turkey, avocado, and pickled onions). Saltwater Bakeshop will continue their farmers’ market appearances. Hours: Tue–Fri 7am–3pm, Sat–Sun 8am–3pm. 1309 Howard St. at 9th St.

More bakery news: after closing the original location of Flour & Branch (493 3rd St.) reportedly due to “severe flooding and building failures at her leased location, prolonged disputes related to landlord negligence,” owner and baker Lauren Arnsdorff is reopening in the former Velvet Raven space on South Park on Wednesday June 3rd. (UPDATE: The opening has been pushed to late June, I will keep you posted.)

More New Openings in West Portal

tablehopper reader Barron L., my new West Portal stringer, shared this report:

Claws of Mantis Launches This Weekend at Fat Cat

Get excited: this weekend (Friday May 22nd–25th) is the grand opening for chef Kevin Tang of Claws of Mantis—fresh from his trip to Saigon—as a co-op inside of Fat Cat wine bar in La Lengua in the Mission (which I was first to write about back in March). He’s been doing a soft run this past week at some private events for friends and family, and the menu looks so sick!

Claws kitchen hours (for now) are Fri–Mon 5pm–10pm. 3215 Mission St. at Fair.

Coming Soon to Noe Valley

Cawfee Tawk

Last month, I attended a special presentation of a World Coffee Championship competition routine at The Wild Fox by 2025 Denmark Barista Champion Christopher Sahyoun Hoff, who placed sixth in the 2025 World Coffee Championship in Milan, Italy. It was a rare opportunity to experience a World Coffee Championship routine since these drinks are almost never served to the public—they’re created exclusively for judges during the World Coffee Championships. I learned the coffees themselves are exceptionally rare micro-lots, sourced through direct relationships, grown specifically for competition rather than normal consumption, and roasted for performance rather than commercial release.

In this case, they were hand-picked Wush Wush beans (an heirloom variety from Ethiopia) from Finca La Negrita in Colombia; we also got a 50g bag of this World Barista Championship coffee (which costs $70/lb.) to bring home to try pulling shots of (but were told to wait five weeks before doing so).

It was a unique experience to be seated at the counter of The Wild Fox on a weekend afternoon alongside eight local baristas and restaurant industry folks, watching Hoff painstakingly prepare an espresso shot, a milk beverage, and a signature beverage for each of us, presented like we were judges.

Would you like to check something like this out? The Wild Fox owners (and married couple) Liza Otanes and Rich Lee (of Spro Coffee Lab) are hosting Kay Cheon (the 2025 United States Barista Champion, and he placed eighth in the 2025 World Barista Championship in Milan, Italy) on Saturday June 6th and Sunday June 7th. Cheon will present his competition routine (an espresso course, a milk course, and a signature beverage), with a Q&A after, and there’s a gift bag (an exclusive coffee offering from Parterre). Tickets are $225, with various time slots each day—don’t be late. If you work in the coffee industry, they’d love to host you (email info@thewildfoxsf.com for industry access). 

Speaking with Lee (who’s a San Francisco native, and a world judge in coffee, which takes nine years to become), he shared he’s very hopeful for SF’s current comeback story, and was thrilled to host Hoff (he pitched the idea for him to come to SF). Lee was hoping Hoff’s visit could help build excitement and positivity about San Francisco, and shared his “hidden agenda” is to use coffee as a tool to invite people to come here to do things, and inspire people to travel to SF. In the words of our Mayor, “Let’s go, San Francisco!”

If the upcoming competition routine is out of your budget, you can just visit the café to try The Wild Fox’s Japanese espresso drinks and pour-overs, ceremonial matcha and tea, and menu of Japanese bites (onigiri, sandos) and small plates from chef Tsubasa Onozaki (previously Liholiho Yacht Club). Open Mon–Fri 7am–5pm. 123 Battery St.

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the lush

Back in March, I wrote about Wine Fare from The Vinguard on Saturday May 30th (1pm–5pm) and Sunday May 31st (12pm–4pm) at Catharine Clark Gallery (248 Utah St.). Over 51 winemakers and importers will be featuring hundreds of wines made by women in the natural wine movement, including Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot, Floraison Selections, Terah Wine Co., and T’Amaro Brands Inc. It’s a fantastic event! $60/day, $95 for both days.

There are a few special ticket offers happening: get an annual $125 membership to The Vinguard (a diverse LGBTQ-led organization with a proven track record of effecting social change in the wine industry) and get a complimentary ticket to Wine Fare, a $95 value.

If you purchase a ticket for Sunday May 31, you can get a second one at half-off: that’s two tickets for $75. Just go to the Wine Fare ticket link and look for “WF Sunday 5/31, buy 1, get 1 at half price.”

Or, if you work in the beverage or food industry, they’re offering $25 tickets per day. Just go to the link and use the promo code WineFoodTrade. Please bring a business card from your workplace.

Don’t miss the silent auction, with 30-plus auction items (dinners, special wines, experiences), happening now through May 31st at 11:45pm. 

SF AAPI Cocktail Week Kicks Off This Sunday May 24th, Plus AAPI Celebration Events at Nisei and Bar Iris

The fourth year of SF AAPI Cocktail Week is Sunday May 24th–28th, with more than 12 events and 40+ bar and restaurant partners from across the U.S. and Asia (many are recognized as some of the World’s 50 Best Bars), including Bar Us (Bangkok, Thailand), Penrose (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia), Alice Cheongdam (Seoul, South Korea), and Night Hawk (Singapore). You can take a look at the events here and here, from a sunset luau to a mix masters competition to trade-only events. 

The 2026 AAPI Celebration Series from Nisei and Bar Iris continues, with a Dalla Valle Vineyards vertical tasting (May 28th) with rare wines and a guided Q&A; a two-night collaboration with chef Dae Kim (most recently Nōksu) May 30th–31st; and a one-night takeover at Bar Iris from New York’s Sip & Guzzle (on June 1st), recently named No. 1 bar in North America. Throughout the month, five percent of dinner proceeds from Nisei will be donated to Bay Resistance.

the archivist

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what’s cookin’

Happy Wednesday (which reminds me of the Happy Wednesdays weekly acid house party with DJ Joey Beltram that I used to go to in the early ’90s in Redondo Beach, and I can’t believe I just found an article in the L.A. Times about it!). Bless the online archives.

Yes, yours truly is gonna rave to the grave. On Saturday night, it was a dancing double play, starting at Club Darc at Pier 48 for a groovy set by DJ Harvey (although, hilariously, the only thing dark was the sticker they made us put over our phone camera—the warehouse was cool, but the overhead lighting was way too bright). If you want to enter to win pair of tickets to see Underworld this weekend, don’t miss the sugar mama today (below!). 

After Harvey’s set wrapped, we skedaddled on over to the Great Northern for Om Records’ 30th anniversary night party, a label that has been part of my SF soundtrack for almost all of the 31 years I have lived here. It was such an SF reunion on the friendly dance floor: I ran into club kids I used to dance with at Universe, friends from the early years of Burning Man, and my advertising days—what a fun blast of community and older SF party people who came out to boogie.

But, Dear Great Northern, how much longer do we have to suffer on that swampy AF dance floor? There’s no ventilation and I always die when it’s a packed night. I brought a fan and people were begging me to fan their faces. It’s way past time to install some serious overhead fans, come ON. Love, ~me

More quick notes on anniversaries: I just noticed that Suppenküche is turning 33 and holding a 90s party with DJ Hardkiss this Friday, and Sushi Ran is turning 40! Their anniversary dinners on May 13th and 20th are sold out, but be sure to wish Taka a happy anniversary the next time you’re there.

On Sunday, we had a beautiful Mother’s Day family brunch at Crustacean—Mom loved the elegant dining room and the light, flavorful dishes. Standouts included the crispy chicken rolls, the caviar and crispy langoustine roll, and whole branzino (I wish the recipe was in the An: To Eat cookbook, that sauce is magic). Of course, everyone swooned over the AN’s famous garlic-roasted Dungeness crab and the garlic noodles. Thanks to the team for making the off-menu [supporting subscribers get the dish!] for us—it’s such an unexpected winner of a dish. Special brunch items included an ube pancake with matcha Chantilly, and the luxe “boh koh” wagyu beef hash. Here’s hoping they host future brunches—what a chic setting for a daytime celebration.

We also raised our glasses of Champagne to our dear and sparkly Great Auntie Helen, AKA Helzi, my grandmother’s vivacious younger sister, who just left us last week at the extraordinary age of 94. Those two glamorous dames are back together, drinking the good stuff in heaven’s VIP room, with all their beloved dogs sitting on their laps. I’m dedicating this week’s newsletter to her memory—Auntie Helen had great taste and loved art and really enjoyed her wine and cocktails. Such a brassy bon vivant. Her warm laugh will be missed. To Helzi! 🍸

This week, I’m taking a step back from reporting on a bunch of local restaurant news so I could write up part one of my highlights from my recent jaunt to New York City. (I’ll have part two for you next week, it got too long!) This trip was my tablehopper 20th anniversary gift to myself, since no one is going to give me a gold watch or a promotion. Thanks to my supporting subscribers, who helped pay for my meals there (and enabled me to even be able to take that trip at all), so my New York jetsetter piece is behind the paywall.

I’m burning the midnight oil this week so I can clock out early to head up to Forestville to stay with some kind friends who invited me to their cabin! We’re going to take a break from floating on the river to attend this Saturday’s The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting (it’s quite the epic tasting, with 150+ wines, beers, spirits, and bites) at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. There are all kinds of lunches, dinners, musical performances, and more happening all weekend (May 14th–17th)—check out the previous sponsored event post, and that’s where you’ll find a discount code! The weather is looking gorgeous: get outta the gray and go enjoy some low 80s! 

Keep it sunny,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Gary Rulli Ends His Residency on Chestnut Street After 22 Years

After first opening Emporio Rulli Gran Caffè on Chestnut Street, and then updating the space to transform it into Ristobar in 2020, owner Gary Rulli is holding the final service for his neighborhood Italian restaurant and bar on Memorial Day (May 25th). He had some really talented chefs come through that kitchen, like Angelo Auriana, Alberto “Berto” Chan Bautista, and I remember having Michele Belotti’s casoncelli for the first time when he started there in 2011. Ristobar had a dynamic list of Italian wines, and wonderful desserts, of course. Grazie for all the Italian excellence! I’m going to miss having this SF outpost to pick up Rulli’s coffee beans and cakes since his bakery is in Larkspur. 

The press release states, “the space will continue in a new direction through a partnership with Eria Events, a Marin-based hospitality and events company led by entrepreneur Nikita Khandheria. We’ll be sharing more about the future of the space and what comes next in the coming weeks.” 2300 Chestnut St. at Scott.

Hardware Coffee Co. Opens a Two-Level Café in West Portal

Thanks to longtime tablehopper subscriber Barron L., who alerted me to the soft opening of the spacious Hardware Coffee Co. in West Portal. This is their second location, an all-day café (designed by Brittany Busacca) in the former Papenhausen Hardware store that has a mezzanine with all kinds of seating upstairs and skylights.

the jetsetter

New York City: Part One

I’m kicking myself for letting so much time pass since my last visit to New York City, which was in 2019. Don’t be like me. This recent springtime trip I had filled me with so much exhilaration and visual input and inspiration. Since I was attending the Cherry Bombe Jubilee conference, I only had four full days to explore and run around and try to catch up with friends, but I did my best! My list of things to eat and see there is always too long.

I hit up a couple museums (the beautiful Cooper Hewitt for the Art of Noise exhibit, and the Whitney Biennial), and caught Running Through Heaven: Visions of Jack Kerouac at the Grolier Club, the oldest existing bibliophilic club in North America. I strolled through Central Park admiring its springy finery, and got a kick out of watching all the people with their dogs on the Upper East Side, and the parents picking up their kids in matching uniforms from private school… There’s nothing like the people watching in New York.

My favorite color moment was spotting the fabulous Debra Rapaport in her blue shades on the subway platform (you would know her from the Advanced Style documentary and book). We had a fun chat—it ends up she lived in SF and Berkeley from 1967–1979. Icon! What a perfect New York sighting (for me).

More style: I’m so grateful a friend reminded me to not miss the new...

Next week, I’ll share part two, with French bistros, hoagies, and more!

the sugar mama

Party On, Wayne! Party On, Garth! Enter to Win Two Tickets to See Underworld at Club Darc This Saturday

This Saturday May 16th is the last night of Goldenvoice Bay Area’s inaugural season of Club Darc at Pier 48’s Shed A on McCovey Cove. The headliner is Underworld, who put on a helluva show the last time I saw them at Portola Festival. Also on deck is The Dare (DJ Set), Mall Grab B2B Effy, yaego, and Bad Juuju.

I have one pair of tickets to give away to this Saturday May 16th’s show, which runs from 7pm–2am (21+). Since I went to Club Darc this last weekend, here are some hopper tips:

the lush

Arabella’s, a New Addition to the Huntington Hotel, Has Opened to the Public

the starlet