Everest Base Camp in luxury and comfort – folly or just overpriced?

The Everest Base Camp trek is a once-in-a-lifetime journey through Sherpa villages to Everest’s base. But in 2025, the Independent’s (UK newspaper) “Flat whites and underfloor heating” peddles a £11,875 ($15,000) group trek that’s more cash grab than Himalayan quest. With promises of coffee at 4,000m and too many helicopters, it skips trekking insurance and shackles you to group chaos.

I don’t do it often, but I really grated my teeth when I read the article. On so many levels. Junkets, paid-ops, or sheer advertising promotion. Years ago people in the industry said, just let it slide. It’s 2025 and nope, it’s not going to fly any more. It’s one thing paying for luxury on a trek, it’s another to avoid the important details and charge way over the top for the privilege. There’s a huge difference paying for a group luxury trek as they did, or pay for a private trek luxury trek that’s custom made for you which costs less and offers so much more.

Whether you’re budgeting or chasing luxury, I’ll show why it’s a rip-off compared to a private luxury trek ($6,657), average trek ($1,677), or a no-porter budget option ($1,513), using 2025 prices. Namche Bazaar’s espresso machines aren’t new; no porter should haul new espresso machines either. Plan better with a trusted trekking guide or go it alone with an EBC guide. Let’s find the “best price for the Everest Base Camp trek” and keep it real.

Debunking the Independent’s Overpriced Group Trek

The Independent’s piece reads like a glossy ad for The Ultimate Travel Company’s 14-day group trek with Mountain Lodges of Nepal, costing $15,000. It dangles luxuries but truly flops against a custom local private luxury trek ($6,657, 14 days), an average private trek ($1,677, 12 days), or a no-porter trek ($1,513, 12 days). Keeping it real—hot showers vanish above Dingboche (4,410m), leaving you with icy buckets at Gorak Shep (5,164m), per my DIY EBC guide. Yep, you can buy a bottle of hot water for your bucket or, like most, stick to a bucket and wipe down. Namche’s underfloor heating is standard in a few plush hotels and by no means a $15,000 flex. Meanwhile, “premium tents” at EBC (5,364m) are just overpriced sleeping bags. The flat-white nonsense is peak absurdity. Namche’s cafes have had $3–$5 espressos for over a decade. Coffee at EBC? That’s porters hauling an espresso machine (plus a generator to run it), which my “Find the best price for the EBC trek” wisely suggests swapping for an AeroPress.

Have Everest Base Camp Treks Gone Insanely Expensive?

Including international flights in the group luxury trek? That’s a head-scratcher. For $1,250 on average for a London-to-Kathmandu flight, you could spend an extra $100 for Emirates’ plush seats. Either way, booking your own flight with the perks you want is a no-brainer. Let a travel agency book your international flight, and you’ll likely paying double or triple for the same thing. Your choice.

The $15,000 tour includes two helicopter flights ($1,000–$2,000 each). Personally, it reads like ditching the descent and trashing the environment, unlike a private trek’s single optional chopper. Keep in mind, helicopters got axed at Annapurna Base Camp for noise, avalanche risks, chewed-up trails, and spooked yaks. EBC locals tried a 2025 ban to save teahouse jobs and paths but got steamrolled by big tour outfits (cough, let’s not reread the first paragraph). Group treks, as “Why you should avoid group trekking tours in Nepal” points out, mean rigid schedules—no Sherpa village stops—and group bickering. Extras like showers/Wi-Fi ($65 for lodge perks) and transport ($10 for Ramechhap bus) aren’t included, adding ~$225 with optional tips. The $15,000 also skips ~$150-200 for trekking insurance, a must for EBC treks. This trek’s peddling pure marketing, not mountain magic.

Why Custom Private Luxury Treks Outshine Group Treks

They don’t ring off the tongue. But, if you want plush digs without group drama, a custom-made private luxury trek ($6,657, 14 days) crushes the Independent’s $15,000 flop. On a budget? It’s easy to arrange a private trek ($1,677, 12 days) or a budget private trek with a no-porter option ($1,513, 12 days). Again, group treks’ fixed schedules cut out Namche’s Sherpa tea ceremonies, where locals spin mountain tales, or side trips to Gokyo Lakes; see my EBC guide. A private guide dishes one-to-one Sherpa climbing lore and sets your pace as you want, sparing you the luxury group’s slowest hiker. Costs are upfront, so no sneaky fees for showers or Wi-Fi, and local guides snag deals. Private treks let you connect with Sherpa culture, whether you’re splurging or on a budget.

What about those online budget treks to Everest for $800? I’ve written about this until I’m blue in the face. Avoid these too-good-to-be-true treks. Most are hyped marketing by tour operators who gather online buyers, wait until they arrive, then bundle them into a huge group. Complain, and you’ll get a last-minute excuse or sob story. Guilted or pressured into your new cheap tour, you set off with a myriad of others and settle for dorm rooms, watery food, and trekking companions who trek at the speed of a tortoise. Consider yourself lucky—you could have signed up for one of the trekking scam sites targeting your travel insurance more than your expectations.

Back to the topic at hand: the real cost of an Everest Base Camp trek, luxury or not. Let’s break it down.

Private Luxury Trek Costs in 2025

A local custom-made private luxury trek costs $6,657 for 14 days, under half the Independent’s price, with top-notch comfort. Here’s the local custom price breakdown so you can see the costs involved:

• Flights: $1,680, covering London to Kathmandu ($1,250, think Air China’s $1,200 or Emirates’ $1,300) and Kathmandu to Lukla return ($430, $215 each way).
• Accommodation: $1,830, with Kathmandu Plaza Hotel (3 nights, $180 at $60/night), high-end lodges like Everest View Hotel for epic views (9 nights, $1,350 at $150/night), and an EBC premium tent for Himalayan nights (2 nights, $300 at $150/night).
• Helicopter Transfer: $1,500 for EBC to Lukla, one flight to ease trail strain.
• Guide and Porter: $1,008, with a guide ($700 at $50/day) sharing Sherpa tales and a porter ($308 at $22/day) hauling gear.
• Permits: $60 for Sagarmatha National Park ($30) and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Entry Fee ($30).
• Meals: $504 for full-board Dal Bhat ($12/meal, 3 meals/day), a Sherpa go-to.
• Extras: $75, with showers ($25 for 5 hot showers at lodges), charging ($30 for 3 camera charges at tea houses), and Wi-Fi ($20 for 10GB Everest Link card for emails).
• Total: $6,657 (£5,250/€5,794).

Add trekking insurance. Book via trusted guides.

Average EBC Trek Costs in 2025

Budget travelers hit EBC for $1,677 (with porter) or $1,513 (no porter) over 12 days, or can DIY their trek via “A full breakdown of an Everest Trek Cost”:

• Permits: $60 for Sagarmatha National Park ($30) and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Entry Fee ($30).
• Flights: $430 for Kathmandu to Lukla return ($215 each way).
• Guide and Porter (With Porter): $624, with a guide ($360 at $30/day) and porter ($264 at $22/day). (No Porter): $360, guide only ($30/day).
• Accommodation: $60 for tea houses (12 nights at $5/night), basic but cozy.
• Meals: $432 for Dal Bhat ($12/meal, 3 meals/day).
• Water: $96 for 4 liters/day at $2 (free with filter).
• Extras: $75, with charging ($15 for 2 phone charges at tea houses) and transport ($10 for Ramechhap bus to Lukla flight). (No Porter: Same $75).
• Total: $1,677 (With Porter) or $1,513 (No Porter) (~£1,320/£1,190).

Add trekking insurance. Book via local guides.

Comparison Table

*Footnote:

• Showers/Wi-Fi: $5 showers (e.g., Namche lodges), $20 Wi-Fi (10GB Everest Link card).
• Charging: $5–$10 phone/camera charges (e.g., tea houses).
• Transport: $10 Ramechhap bus for Lukla flight.
• Excluded tips for Independent Group ($150–$200 for guide/porter) add to extras.

Note: The Independent article didn’t specify if Wi-Fi, charging, or hot showers were included in the price. I assume they were. That’s still less than $100 in costs.

Sample Itinerary: Private Custom Luxury Trek

This local private luxury trek ($6,657, 14 days) offers a flexible EBC journey, far better than the Independent’s $15,000 group trek. Here’s an example of your route, bookable via trusted guides, or on a budget via my EBC guide, which leaves out the helicopter:

• Day 1: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla ($215), trek to Phakding (3–4 hours, 2,610m, $50 lodge).
• Day 2: Trek to Namche Bazaar (6 hours, 3,440m, $150 lodge).
• Day 3: Acclimatize in Namche, visit Sherpa Culture Museum, join a tea ceremony ($150 lodge).
• Day 4: Trek to Tengboche (5 hours, 3,860m), explore monastery rituals ($150 lodge).
• Day 5: Trek to Dingboche (6 hours, 4,410m, $150 lodge).
• Day 6: Acclimatize in Dingboche, optional hike for views ($150 lodge).
• Day 7: Trek to Lobuche (5 hours, 4,940m, $150 lodge).
• Day 8: Trek to Gorak Shep (5 hours, 5,164m), visit EBC (5,364m, $150 tent).
• Day 9: Helicopter to Lukla ($1,500, 30 minutes, $50 lodge).
• Day 10: Fly to Kathmandu ($215, $60 hotel).
• Day 11: Sightsee in Kathmandu, visit Boudhanath stupa ($60 hotel).
• Day 12: Depart Kathmandu.

Need to add a day? No problem. Don’t want a helicopter? No problem. Dietary requirements? Let me know. That’s why it’s a custom trek. It’s your trek, your way.

Budget Tips for Trekkers

Eat Dal Bhat ($6–$12/meal, cheaper and more filling than $10+ pizzas). Use a Steripen ($100) or water filtration tablets to filter water, saving $96 over bottled ($2–$5/liter), as per my EBC guide. Book with local guides for $1,400–$1,800 packages, and always get trekking insurance. Unlike the Independent’s trek, local trekking agents are far more flexible. To me, that’s the sign of real premium luxury. Private treks avoid group headaches, ideal for luxury or budget travelers. Looking for perks like all-in helicopters and hot showers? Read on.

So, you made it to EBC and want a helicopter back? It’s easy, but here’s the scoop. You can get a helicopter from EBC to Lukla and from Lukla to Kathmandu—two rides. No, there’s no direct EBC-to-Kathmandu chopper (not even the Independent managed that). Technically possible, but you’ll pay a fortune. Realistically, some folks shave off 2+ days by taking a chopper from EBC to Lukla, then a plane to Kathmandu. It’s costly. If time isn’t an issue, a custom luxury trek outperforms here if you’re prepared to wait. Shared helicopters from EBC are often available but unscheduled. You could nab a seat for $500 per person if available; otherwise, it’s double or triple for a regular fare. It’s one of the quirks of being at the top of the world—things aren’t scheduled, so they’re tough to book. Have a few days to spare, and you might snag a bargain ride back.

What about the road?! Can’t I save money by taking a bus to Surke? Actually, you’ll be going to Salleri by bus, and then it’s a private jeep to Surke followed by a few hours of trekking. Total cost over $300. With an average flight of $215 one-way to Lukla. You won’t be saving money, yet. I should also point out that it’s not at all comfortable on the jeep section right now. And, if it rains, be prepared to get out and push in knee high mud. I won’t go into details here, but all that will change very soon. For now, it’s best to take the bus/jeep combination option only in the case of the weather stopping all flights to Lukla and you are tight on time. Before anyone asked about cheap helicopters from Lukla to Kathmandu … yes, shared helicopters are possible. But you”ll need a trekking agent, a fist full of cash, trust, and patience. There are no scheduled helicopter flights for shared passengers. You literally need a spot to open to bag a bargain. There might be many people waiting, or none. A bidding on tickets often breaks out or lengthy waits for more people to show up. It’s certainly not a reliable option if you are on a budget. The road holds out some promise in the future. So stay turned here or on my dedicated on how to trek the Everest Base Camp trek.

Why Private EBC Treks Win in 2025/2026

The Everest Base Camp trek is about Sherpa hospitality and Everest’s raw power—not coffee hauled up mountains. The Independent’s $15,000 group trek inflates costs, skips trekking insurance, and harms trails with helicopters. A private luxury trek ($6,657) offers high-end lodges and a private guide, with $1,250 London flights and $430 domestic.

Meanwhile, budget treks ($1,677 with porter, $1,513 without) deliver the real EBC for less. Don’t believe it? Unlike sponsored websites, everything here is transparent. Prices are clear in my EBC guide and “EBC trek costings”. There will also be a feature podcast episode about luxury and normal costing Everest treks on Nepal: Uncovered. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and all platforms next week.

Want more info on trekking in Nepal? Never trekked before? Grab my guidebook “First Time Trekking in Nepal” ($4.99) to see what it’s all about. Or, if you’re set on going, get the full “Trekking in Nepal Guidebook” ($19.99), also available in paperback.

Trek EBC your way—private, sustainable, unforgettable.

Get My Trekking in Nepal Guidebook & Discover More Than Anyone Else!

Looking for more insider tips and information like this? Get the most up-to-date, popular, and dedicated guidebook to Trekking in Nepal in the world. Covering 29 full treks over 400 pages, it’s the only trekking guidebook with links showing how to combine treks! Available as an instant download or with worldwide shipping for the paperback edition.

Take a look below and find out why this beats all other guidebooks!

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The Himalayas Are Still There: Debunking the BBC’s Hazy Himalayan Hype

I have been traveling, living, and writing about Nepal for over two decades, trekking its trails, tasting high-altitude coffee in Kathmandu’s bustling Thamel, and staring in awe at the jagged, snow-draped Himalayas from mountain peaks. So when I stumbled across a recent BBC article (source) claiming the mighty Himalayas are “getting harder and harder to see” due to haze and pollution, I raised an eyebrow. The piece, penned by an environment correspondent, paints a dramatic picture of vanishing mountain views, disappointed tourists, and a trekking industry on its knees. But as someone who’s been on the ground, I’m calling this out for what it is: clickbait with more holes than a yak’s wool sweater.

Let’s unpack this, shall we? I’m not denying air pollution or climate challenges in Nepal: those are real. But the narrative that the Himalayas are practically invisible now, even during peak seasons, is wildly exaggerated. Here’s my take on Himalayas visibility in Nepal, grounded in experience, not hype.

The Kathmandu Mountain Myth

The article kicks off with a nostalgic claim about seeing the Himalayas from Kathmandu’s city streets. Look, I have spent countless days wandering Kathmandu, from the narrow alleys of Ason to the rooftops of Patan. I have a dedicated heritage book that covers places few have ever seen, all the way to the tallest temple. The idea that you could casually gaze at Everest or Annapurna from the capital is a stretch, and it has been for decades. Urban sprawl, buildings, weather, and distance, mean the mountains are rarely visible from the city itself. On a crystal-clear day, post-monsoon in October or November: but more likely in the depths of winter, you might catch a glimpse of distant peaks from Patan’s higher spots or a rooftop in Boudha. But this isn’t new, and it’s not pollution’s direct fault; it’s geography.

Want to see the Himalayas? Get out of Kathmandu. Head to Dhulikhel, a short drive east, where on a clear winter’s day (October to February), the views are jaw-dropping. Or book a mountain flight for a front-row seat to Everest. That’s all without trekking. The article’s lament about not seeing mountains from a Kathmandu hotel is baffling. No hotel in the city has ever marketed itself as a Himalayan viewpoint, and if they did, they’re selling snake oil. This sets the tone for the piece: dramatic but disconnected from reality.

Haze, Fires, and the Springtime Scapegoat

The BBC points to “severe air pollution” and haze as the main culprits obscuring the Himalayas, even during the spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) seasons, which are traditionally clear. Let’s break this down.

Haze in spring is real, but it’s not some new phenomenon. Across Nepal, India, Pakistan, and indeed much of Asia, farmers burn grass and crop residue in the dry season to prevent uncontrolled forest fires later. These controlled burns create smoke, which can linger as haze, especially at lower altitudes. This isn’t unique to Nepal: it’s a regional issue across Asia. I’ve seen it in Pokhara, where locals once pointed fingers at India, conveniently ignoring their own fires nearby. Is it ideal? No. Does it blanket the Himalayas year-round? Absolutely not.

The article claims haze is now so bad that even spring and autumn are ruined. That’s a stretch. Mid-October to mid-December is Nepal’s golden window—post-monsoon, pre-winter. Skies are typically blue, and above 4,000 meters, you’re almost guaranteed epic views, if the weather cooperates. March to May can be hazier due to fires, but it’s not a write-off. I’ve trekked the Annapurna Circuit in April and seen Poon Hill light up with sunrise over Dhaulagiri. The key? Altitude and timing. Below 4,000 meters, haze can be an issue in spring, but climb higher, and you’re above it.

The piece also mentions a flight circling Kathmandu’s airport 20 times due to hazy weather. Congestion at Tribhuvan International Airport is infamous, exacerbated by ongoing repairs and outdated radar. Delays and circling have been a fact of life at the airport for over a decade, haze or no haze. Try landing during monsoon season! Blaming it solely on pollution is lazy.

Nagarkot and Annapurna: Misplaced Expectations

The article cites Nagarkot, a hill station near Kathmandu, as a prime example of haze-ruined views. I’ll be blunt: Nagarkot has never been a stellar Himalayan viewpoint. Decades ago, guidebooks like Lonely Planet hyped it up, and tourists bought the myth. Even on a clear day, you’re not seeing Everest without binoculars along with some imagination, and the other “spectacular” peaks are distant at best. A local hotelier quoted in the piece says he’s stopped marketing Nagarkot for sunrise and Himalayan views, focusing on history and culture instead. Smart move, but this isn’t news: Nagarkot’s reputation as a mountain vantage point was always overstated. I’ve written about this in my guidebook to Nepal over 10 years ago and given better alternatives than the tourist trap of Nagarkot.

Then there’s the Annapurna region, where the writer claims they “had hardly any luck” seeing peaks during a trek. The Annapurna region is vast, from Pokhara’s Sarangkot to the high passes of Thorong La. Without context—where exactly were they trekking? This is meaningless. Sarangkot, the concrete-heavy viewpoint near Pokhara, isn’t prime for Himalayan vistas. But on a trek like Annapurna Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit, haze is rarely an issue above 3,500 meters, especially in October or November. If clouds rolled in, that’s weather, not pollution. I’ve lost count of trekkers who’ve had bad luck with clouds one day and postcard-perfect views the next. That’s mountain life!

The Trekking Industry’s “Crisis”

The BBC quotes a trekking guide claiming a 40% business drop due to hazy conditions, even mentioning compensating trekkers for not seeing mountains. I’ve been in Nepal’s trekking scene long enough to call this dubious. A 40% drop? Let’s talk real factors: the 2023 ban on independent trekking by the Nepal Tourism Board and Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN), skyrocketing costs, and a string of plane crashes haven’t exactly screamed “book your trek now.” Blaming haze alone is absurd.

As for compensating trekkers for weather? I’ve never heard of a reputable agency doing this. Weather is unpredictable: always has been. If you’re promised a guaranteed view of Annapurna, you’re being scammed, not compensated. The article also cites a trekking official saying operators are “depressed” and considering career changes. Hyperbole aside, the industry faces challenges, but haze isn’t the apocalypse. Trekkers still flock to Nepal, and those who research their trips, choosing the right season and altitude—rarely leave disappointed. All the same, it can happen, just like anywhere in the world when out of 365 days in a year you are only there for 14. You take a risk with weather whenever you go on holiday. You mitigate it by going at a time of year when it’s historically rain or cloud free, but it’s still no guarantee … anywhere in the world. Nepal just happens to be on the roof of the world and has fairly dependable weather patterns.

The Bigger Picture: Pollution, Climate, and Reality

Let’s not sugarcoat it: air pollution is a problem in South Asia. Cities like Kathmandu, Delhi, and Lahore regularly rank among the world’s most polluted. Vehicle emissions, construction dust, and open waste burning contribute year-round. Grass fires, as I mentioned, add to the spring haze. Climate change is extending dry seasons, which can worsen conditions. The BBC cites Pokhara’s airport recording 168 hazy days in 2024, up from 23 in 2020. I’d take that data with a grain of salt: Nepal’s weather stations aren’t exactly cutting-edge, and Pokhara’s new airport has its own issues, like lacking radar for wide-body jets, hills blocking radar, etc. Weather stations in the mountains … dream on. Most weather patterns in the mountains are calculated based on satellite imagery coming from India.

To claim the Himalayas are now only visible in “photographs, paintings, and postcards” is pure drama. I was in Langtang last November, and the peaks were so clear I could’ve counted the crevasses. Above 4,000 meters in the first season, haze is rarely a factor, and even at lower altitudes, the post-monsoon season delivers. If the weather is cloudy … it’s the weather and bad luck. There’s a difference.  The article’s doom-and-gloom ignores the reality: Nepal’s peak seasons (mid-September to mid-December, and to a lesser extent, Late March to May) still offer some of the world’s best mountain views, if the weather cooperates. Which in Nepal, it generally does.

There are no guarantees with the weather … bad guidebooks, marketing hype, and promotional blather have risen expectations for mountain views into near guarantees – it simply never has been the case – the fires? It’s been going on for decades – mix them with no wind (weather) and yes there can be a problem. But, again, it’s been that way for decades across Asia, not just in Nepal.

So, What’s the Deal with Trekking in Nepal?

This BBC piece is a classic case of sensationalism over substance. It takes real issues: pollution, climate change, and seasonal haze, and spins them into a narrative that the Himalayas are vanishing. The truth? They’re still there, as majestic as ever. Here’s my advice for travelers:

Practical Tips for Trekkers

• Time it right: Mid-September to mid-December is your best bet for clear skies. March to May can work, but expect some haze at lower altitudes. Check out the best time to visit Nepal.
• Go high: Above 4,000 meters, haze is minimal. Treks like Everest Base Camp or Annapurna Circuit deliver. Need to know what treks go over 4,000 meters?
• Skip the hype spots: Low-altitude peak season – Nagarkot and Sarangkot are overrated. Try Dhulikhel or a mountain flight for better views.
• Manage expectations: Weather is unpredictable everywhere, from Nepal to New York. No one guarantees blue skies, and if they do, they’re lying.
• Support solutions: Grass fires are a regional issue. Advocate for better fire management and environmental management, not just in Nepal but across Asia. Why are North America and Europe implementing campfire bans, coal bans, and all sorts of pollution bans on the public when across Asia new coal power plants are opening, rubbish zones burn, recycling is nearly non-existent, diesel generators generate electricity, and grass fires are lit?

Pollution is a global challenge, and Nepal’s doing better than many. Hydropower dominates its electricity, and electric vehicle sales are climbing. Grass fires remain a problem, but they’re controlled to prevent worse forest fires. Science needs to step up with solutions, not just for Nepal but for the world.

Final Thoughts

The Himalayas aren’t going anywhere, and neither is Nepal’s allure for trekkers and adventurers. The BBC’s article is a well-meaning but misleading mix of half-truths and hyperbole, leaning on outdated guidebook myths and vague anecdotes. As someone who’s trekked Nepal’s trails for years, I can tell you the views are still there: provided you know when and where to look.

Want more trekking tips? Check out my Trekking in Nepal Guidebook for insider advice!

Don’t let clickbait scare you off. Do your research, pack your boots, and chase those peaks. The Himalayas are waiting, haze or no haze.

Get My Trekking in Nepal Guidebook & Discover More Than Anyone Else!

Looking for more insider tips and information like this? Get the most up-to-date, popular, and dedicated guidebook to Trekking in Nepal in the world. Covering 29 full treks over 400 pages. The only trekking guidebook in the world with trekking links showing you how to link treks together! Available as an instant download or worldwide shipping for the paperback edition!

Take a look below and you’ll find out why this beats all other guidebooks!

Get the Trekking in Nepal guidebook here!

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The above post first appeared on Can You Still See the Himalayas? Debunking Nepal’s Haze Myths for Trekkers which is © copyright 2022 www.thelongestwayhome.com
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Over the years, I’ve written about the destruction, the aftershocks, and the slow, uneven recovery. Now, in 2025, marking this decade milestone, I’m back to take stock. The story’s evolved—some cities have risen from the rubble, others limp along, and the massive donations that poured in? Well, that’s a tale of generosity shadowed by a frustrating lack of clarity.

The Global Cash Flood

When the first earthquake hit, the world didn’t hesitate. Money flowed in like a monsoon river – governments, NGOs, and ordinary folks dug deep. The figure that sticks out is $4.1 billion, pledged by international donors to rebuild Nepal. That’s billion with a “b”, a staggering sum for a country of Nepal’s size. India kicked in billions of rupees, Japan funded heritage projects, and private donors everywhere chipped in. I remember the fundraisers, the hashtags, the gamers at Bungie raising $1 million through Destiny. The United States alone pledged $130 million in humanitarian aid, emergency relief, food, water, and reconstruction support, straight from USAID and the State Department. It was a rare moment of global unity, a lifeline thrown to a poverty led nation on its knees.

But ten years later, I’m walking through the Kathmandu Valley, and the question nags: where did it all go? Bhaktapur’s temples gleam again, Patan’s making strides, yet Bungamati’s still half-built, and parts of Kathmandu feel stuck in 2015 yet there are big electric cars zipping around and high fashion on parade. Again, That $4 billion—and the U.S.’s $130 million slice was meant to rebuild homes, schools, and heritage—8,000 schools, 600,000 houses, countless temples. So why am I still seeing tarps and scaffolds in places that should be whole?

The Transparency Black Hole

I’ve always been wary of big promises (travel’s taught me to question the machine) and Nepal’s recovery is a textbook case. The government set up the National Reconstruction Authority (NRA) in late 2015 to handle the cash and rebuilding. They pegged the need at $6.7 billion, but only $4.1 billion came through in pledges, and even less hit the ground. The NRA’s own stats show about half that amount spent by 2025, with many projects incomplete or stalled. A 2018 Kathmandu Post probe found just 60% of pledged funds disbursed by 2017, and tracing it to actual outcomes? Good luck.

Bureaucracy’s a big culprit. Political gridlock delayed the NRA’s start by months, and when it got rolling, funds trickled out slowly, caught in red tape, local corruption, or plain inefficiency. NGOs flooded in too, some doing solid work, others less so. I’ve seen shoddy shelters from “aid tourists” collapse in monsoons, and heard whispers of overhead costs swallowing millions. The $4 billion was lifesaver, literally, but it created a mess of accountability issues. Donors deserve a clear account, where’s the transparency?

Cities in Progress and Stagnation

In general:  Bhaktapur’s the standout. Its Durbar Square temples are fully restored, a phoenix from the ashes. This city’s unique: it used entry fees, local donations, and even contributions from folks like me at The Longest Way Home to rebuild. Every brick’s accounted for, you could sponsor a temple, get a receipt, see your name on a plaque. It was transparent, community-driven, and done. Nyatapola Temple towers again, Vatsala Durga’s back, and the 55 Window Palace shines. Bhaktapur’s the only place in Nepal that’s nailed reconstruction. Check my Bhaktapur Durbar Square guide to see for yourself.

Patan’s close behind. Its heritage—think Krishna Mandir, the Golden Temple, has largely recovered, though regular repairs keep coming with the help of the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust (private). Patan Durbar Square’s not the ruin it was in 2015; again the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust (KVPT) and local artisans have brought back its intricate beauty. It’s not perfect as scaffolding still dot the skyline. But it’s standing, tourists and worshippers still flow. My Patan Durbar Square guide shows you this.

Bungamati’s a different story. This ancient Newar town was flattened in 2015 with 851 homes gone, temples like Manakamana reduced to rubble. Today, it’s about 75% rebuilt. I visited last month; the streets are coming back, but progress feels sluggish. Families still lean on temporary fixes, and that $4 billion … I’m not sure anyone here believes it was real. The NRA claims 80% of private homes across Nepal are rebuilt, but in places like Bungamati, the $3,000 grants barely cover materials, let alone builders.

Kathmandu’s a mixed bag. Durbar Square’s mostly repaired with Kasthamandap, from the 12th-century, reopened in 2022, and Trailokya Mohan Narayan’s back as of 2024. But Hanuman Dhoka, the inner palace, is still a mess. Scaffolding is a constant reminder. The square’s living heritage (people) hide the cracks, literally and figuratively. See my Kathmandu Durbar Square guide for the latest. Rural villages like Sindhupalchok, where 90% of homes collapsed, still have families in tin shacks. Schools in Makwanpur? Kids study in large tents. That $4 billion rebuilt a lot, but not enough it seems.

Myanmar 2025: A Mirror and a Warning to Nepal

Now, let’s look at Myanmar. The irony and tragedy was not lost on me. On March 28, 2025, a 7.7-magnitude quake hit near Mandalay with 3,354 dead, 4,850 injured, 220 missing, per state media. Like Nepal, aid rolled in: China’s $13.9 million, Taiwan’s $50,000 and teams, the IRC and Direct Relief with tents and medical aid. But the U.S.? Just $2 million. Compare that to the $130 million the USA donated to Nepal in 2015. Why? Myanmar’s junta, entrenched since the 2021 coup, is not liked. Western aid is being questioned by the donors themselves. The USA has seen the gutting by Trump-era cuts to USAID. A lesson from the 4 billion Nepal once received internationally? Or, simply politics.

Myanmar’s quake exposes today’s global aid fault lines.  Nepal’s $130 million from the USA was part of a $4 billion package when globalization was a priority, pre-Trump, pre-COVID, when Western generosity peaked. Myanmar’s donation from the USA is telling. Politics overrides aid.

A Personal Journey Through the Rubble

The 2015 earthquake didn’t just shake Nepal—it shook me. Back in 2014, I was wrestling with a decision: should I document Nepal’s heritage? I’d dreamed of creating a guidebook, a detailed record of its temples, palaces, and streets. But I hesitated, would it be too much when “systems” like government archives already existed? The earthquake answered that. When those systems failed. When centuries-old buildings vanished with no proper blueprints to rebuild them, I knew I’d been right to doubt. I was standing behind Vatsala Durga when I was thinking about it all per-earthquake. My instinct to document Nepal’s heritage wasn’t just valid; it was urgent. I wrote about it then, check my early articles like this one and this one. I teamed up with the Digital Archaeology Institute to 3D-map Nepal’s temples, a painstaking process to capture every temple. It was struggle that didn’t make technical sense. I reached out to software companies and they were eager to help with full 3D mapping. That sparked the Digital Archaeology Foundation, my effort to preserve these structures digitally for future generations was happening.

Maybe the most direct outcome was Kathmandu Valley Heritage Walks. I poured myself into it—28 original walks through the valley’s heritage sites, crafted for history lovers and anyone who cares about what Nepal was and is. It’s a snapshot in time, documenting temples, palaces, and streets as they stood when I wrote it. The paperback’s a marker on a historic roadmap; the digital edition tracks reconstruction live. It’s one of my proudest achievements. I hope it’s a tool for future generations, a window into what was, and a plea to keep heritage stay alive.

The quake’s chaos also allowed me to thing about MissingTrekker.com too. Seeing no system to help families find lost trekkers was in place, I built it. It’s the only place where loved ones can post about missing trekkers in Nepal, a small but vital lifeline. And when big corporate guidebook publishers stalled, I didn’t. I kept updating photos of temples still standing. I showed the  reality on the ground for tourists. When big media announced Patan was gone, I stood there, camera in hand, proving it wasn’t, it happened in this post. It still stood, and people could visit. I’ll shout my own corner here as few others did.

But there’s hindsight too. In 2015, I listed legitimate donation sites from government-run, approved NGOs like these. Then I watched, boots on the ground, as cash didn’t appear from them. Aid groups seemed to purchase new computers and over priced USB sticks while people slept in the open. Big media lapped it up; I saw the frustration and reality on the groun  and here’s my take a year later. Worse than this morally were when the bad actors sprang up with fake donation sites, GoFundMes with sob stories with numbers that didn’t add up. Not all were bad, some were simply desperate. However,  the scams stuck with me … people cashing in on death and destruction for fancy cars or upgraded  homes.

What would I have done differently in hindsight? Trust that I am a trusted authority on Nepal. I’d skip the middlemen and big agencies. I knew the hands-on people buying food, tents, and construction material, taking it straight to villages. Moreover, I knew the people bringing medical aid to schools that were receiving nothing from the big agencies. As a trusted voice on Nepal, I should’ve asked for direct donations, bypassing the large aid agencies and fraudsters. I would have been transparent in showing where the money was going. I did think about it then, but I trusted governments and big agencies to do right in such an emergency. All this while dealing with my own grief: lost friends, familiar places gone. It was a lot. In hindsight, I could’ve gone a different route instead of documenting so much and calling out big media for their inaccuracies I could have directly asked for donations to help specific places and people with full transparency.  Lesson learned.

Nepal’s Future: India, China, and the next earthquake nobody wants to talk about

Ten years on,  Bhaktapur’s triumph shows what’s possible with community involvement. Patan’s progress is slow but getting there. Bungamati’s crawl is painful. Nuwakot is a constuction site with Chinese builders lacking asides from promises. And, Kathmandu’s patchwork reconstruction reflects only so much. But if, when, another earthquake hits, Nepal will get the same aid. Nobody wants to talk about it. Almost as if speaking about another earthquake is taboo. Myanmar was barely mentioned in the media. Too close for comfort perhaps. Trump’s policies are gutting USA aid capacity and Myanmar’s $2 million proves this. The world has entered a new era. Nepal is at the mercy of India and China is a the cold stark reality.

Indeed,  India and China, will likely step up. In 2015, India sent billions in rupees, China funded roads and schools. Today, their rivalry’s economic and militarily led with border disputes, There are Belt and Road ambitions from China and India wants the breaks on. However, there’s no Western buffer to cool these tensions. If / when gets hit by another earthquake, aid will come, but it’ll be a geopolitical chess move. Checkmate is something that will throw the axis of power in south Asia in a new direction that will impact everyone in the world.

Bhaktapur is a shining light in what local efforts, transparent cash, and real results can deliver. Donors in the future need to ask questions, and demand proof before, during and after donations are handed out. Me? I’ll keep going. Heritage is not a big earner. It’s a passion project. I do it in the hope that future generations will have a historical record of what once was. And what can be again should something come to take it all away.

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A new e-permit system has come online in Nepal, but there’s a catch

In 2024 The National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) who run the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) launched an online portal for trekking companies and trekkers to buy ACAP and  MCAP permits online. Only the portal never worked very well and kept crashing.

In 2025 they’ve revamped things a bit and now issue e-permits for the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) , Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (MCAP), or Gaurishankar Conservation Area Permit (GCAP). I’ve tried it out, as have a few others, and it does seem to function a lot better.  This essentially means, you can get your ACAP, MCAP, or GCAP permits yourself, before arriving in Nepal or when in Nepal.Previously you would have to visit an NTNC office, a permit office, have a trekking guide, or a National park entrance to get a paper permit. The latter would been paying double. While the tried and trusted office/guide system was fairly straight forward. And, you can still have your trekking guide get the permits if you want. The new system was not set up to make like easier for trekkers, it was set up to maximize profits. Less paper printing, less offices, less staff. All trekking agents are being told they most apply online for clients permits from now on. And here come the catches!

The new e-permit has several problems

1: As a trekker the first  problem may seem like a minor one. It will now cost you more. There’s an extra “online payment gateway charge per permit of 2.8% to non-Nepali. That number has changed a bit since it’s introduction. And, despite being a “small” extra charge, it’s caused all types of additional problems. The first of which is, well, it’s discriminatory. Second, you’re being forced to pay extra. There is no alternative. The third problem is that some dubious trekking agents are charging even more than that and telling clients that they too are being charged extra. Fact: Trekking agents have a separate login, and are NOT charged extra.

2: The next problem revolves around the “Mandatory Trekking Guide” rule that Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) and Trekkers Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN) re-introduced in 2023. Something they’ve yet to actually set up any checkpoints for. Now, in 2025 NTNC have basically make it possible for independent trekkers to completely circumvent the mandatory guide rule, get there own permit, avoid a Trekker Information Management System (TIMS) charge, and head out trekking in the Annapurna Region themselves.  You won’t here me complaining about that. The TIMS System is completely broken.  However, I do believe first time trekkers should take a guide for some treks for the sake of safety. MissingTrekker.com highlights several treks where solo trekkers have had serious problems with in the past. That said, it’s one more step towards the return of independent trekking in Nepal. And, for many people it looks like NTNC is sticking it to NTB and TAAN and simply ignoring them. Who can blame them!3: Next up on the problem list is the Manaslu MCAP permit. Considering most trekkers will want the permit to trek Manaslu, getting it themselves is pointless as they’ll also need a Manaslu Restricted Area Permit which can only be obtained by a licensed trekking agency with at least two non-Nepali trekkers applying, and a compulsory trekking guide (note the difference between a mandatory trekking guide and a compulsory trekking guide). So, even if you went to the trouble of getting an MCAP the trekking agency still needs to get you the restricted area permit so why not just let them get all the permits at once. For the ACAP and GCAP you don’t need much more.

4: There’s also the physical problem of an e-permit in Nepal. The e-permit is displayed on your phone/computer. You carry it that way. So, in the mountains of Nepal, with all the elements and hazards around you let’s say your phone is out of battery, cracked screen, lost etc.  NTNC say that at the various permit checkpoints they will have access to your permit via your name, passport number. That’s great in theory, but knowing how Nepal works the checkpoint is even more likely to have a power cut, broken computer etc. The answer it to print off your own permit and take it with you. It defeats the whole purpose of having an e-permit, but it’s a solution. For those going with guides who got you the permit, there’s less of a problem as their office and the trekking guide will have copies of your e-permit.

5:   Finally, much like the above, and as we started, what happens if the E-Permit system is down? It happened throughout 2024. Granted, they seem to have got their act together in 2025. But, IT systems, especially in Nepal, do seem to go down. It did take me two attempts to get an e-permit recently. The system simply froze for 10 minutes and then spat out a configuration payment gateway error. I hit refresh and was presented with payment page. I did not pay there as there was no reference on it. So I went back and tried it all again and it worked.If you were planning on a trek tomorrow, and the system went down, it would mean – no permit for you. You would literally have to wait until the system comes back online. It could be minutes, hours, days … etc. The alternative is to head off without a permit and hopefully the nice man at the National Park Checkpoint will understand and give you one there. He will. But he will also charge you double. The alternative option is to hop along to a trekking agency and have them issue you a permit. However, although they have their own separate login, it uses the same system, so it will also be down.  If this is the case, they will probably tell you “no problem, they know someone”. Pay up, with an extra charge, and they’ll have a permit for you before you reach the checkpoint …  So, yea. The best advice is that if you do intend to go solo trekking and get your own permit, do it well in advance. Otherwise, save some cash and just have your trekking guide do it for you.

E-permits to other National Parks?

Nothing yet. You either need to go to the park yourself to get the permit, or have a trekking company do it for you. In the case of the Solukhumbu region (Everest treks) this is not an issue. Monjo or Lukla checkpoints can supply you with a Sagamartha Permit, and a TREK CARD / Rural permit when you arrive. Or, once again, your trekking agency can do it for you.

However, this brings up the very real issue of 2025+ treks and permits that is emerging. Rural Permits. Manaslu just introduced one. Mardi Himal had one, and is still trying to introduce one. Annapurna Base Camp is rumored to be introducing one as well. It’s all to do with a lack of funding from the likes of TAAN and NTB. The rural municipalities have seen Solukhumbu go independent and make money, so many other municipalities are thinking of the same route. It all means, more permits in the future. They are not likely to be e-permits either.Going to the trouble of getting, and paying extra for a single e-permit when there are likely to be others needed seems to be a pointless endeavor for many. It would be far easier just to know from your trekking guide, how much will all the permits be together, and can you handle it. And, they will. Permit issues sorted.

How to fill out the e-permit form

Thankfully the NTNC form is fairly straightforward with no real catches. You’ll need a credit/debit card. A passport photo. The location of your trek.

• Head over to https://epermit.ntnc.org.np/
• Do read about any additional charges as they do seem to change a bit, then check the terms and conditions before clicking “Apply Permit”
• Fill in the first section with your personal details and upload your passport photo
• In the next section fill in the details of your trek, including the location/permit type you are applying for, and the dates of your trek.
• In the next section fill in your contact information
• The final section is if you have a trekking guide you can fill in their contact details (no need if you have hired a guide and they are getting you this permit)
• Next, fill in the captcha code and click next – try to get the captcha correct otherwise it takes a while
• On the next screen you’ll see all your details, check them over. You’ll also see a list of the costs. Probably best just to look at the Grand Total. Then click Pay Now.
• You then get to fill in your credit/debit card details and your email

Once you’ve paid you should be greeted with a confirmation page. Your permit details will be emailed to you.

The biggest hiccup in the entire process above will be the payment gateway not loading. If you paid and it borks out. There’s a little chat box in the lower right of the form sign up page you could try. The support link at the top seems to not function. Otherwise the NTNC number is +977-1-5253571, 5253573Again, if you don’t fancy doing any of the above, you don’t have to. You can simply have your trekking agency do it for you. Just remember, they should not be charging you for anything other than the permit. Especially if you are also hiring them as your trekking guide.

Conclusion: E-permits are online now and will work for some, but won’t be worth it for others

Going on an Annapurna Trek or Pikey Peak Trek Solo? Getting an e-permit yourself will mean neatly having to avoid getting a TIMS card if you so wanted. Though again, if you are a first time trekker in Nepal, please consider hiring a trekking guide. Unfortunately, the e-permit website is not that reliable.

Going on a Manaslu Trek? Well, it won’t make any difference. You might as well just let your trekking company get all the permits for you, and save that 2.8% extra charge.Need a trekking guide? There’s a full list of recommended trekking agents and guides in my Trekking in Nepal Guidebook, or you can use my Find a Nepali Trekking guide service.

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What Do You Do If You Had a Bad Experience With a Trekking Guide or Agency in Nepal?

Unfortunately, over the past year, there’s been a substantial rise in complaints about bad trekking agencies and bad trekking guides in Nepal. I’ve spent a lot of time analyzing why this has come about and what’s the root cause. The answer, like most things, was both staring me in the face and a combination of factors. However, there’s no doubt about the “new” central cause of these complaints. The real question is what to do about it?

Moreover, what do you as a trekker do if you start having or had a bad experience with a guide or agency on your trek? Up until recently, there was only one thing you could do: Report the guide or trekking agency to the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN). The same people that issue the Trekker Information Management System (TIMS), and said in 2023 that all trekkers now need a mandatory trekking guide, banned independent trekking, yet never set up checkpoints, nor ran an actual safety database of trekkers. They just took the TIMS money. It may come as no shock after reading this, that there is no official TAAN contact form to report issues. We’ll cover this in more detail.

There’s also an unfortunate issue started by the so-called “big” guidebooks back in the 2000s that said you could report issues to Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). Again, this is like writing a complaint with chalk on a rock and throwing it into a lake. NTB is a marketing company set up by Nepal to market or sell Nepal to the world (e.g., travel companies). It is not the Ministry of Tourism and Aviation, who are the actual people in charge of Tourism in Nepal. If you managed to get hold of someone from the actual ministry, you might stand a chance. Unfortunately, the ministry is not exactly open to tourists… yes, the irony.

So who or how do you make a complaint? We’ll come to that. Skip ahead if you want. But to really understand how your complaint is handled and why it came about, we need to look at why problems with bad trekking guides in Nepal are increasing.

Why Are Trekkers Having More Problems With Trekking Guides and Agencies Today Than Ever Before?

Key Contributing Factors

• Economic pressures and lack of regulation
• Post-pandemic industry changes
• 2023 solo trekking ban implementation
• Breakdown of oversight systems

First, the easy bit. The other factors: It’s the economy. It’s the lack of regulation. It’s the large corporate takeovers of smaller Nepali businesses. Next, we throw in the pandemic whereby many businesses shut down, and there was no support. Following the pandemic, a vast number of trekking guides called it a day and went overseas to earn money, most of which is sent back to Nepal. Then came the cost of living crisis as prices rose around the world and in Nepal. The latter basically exacerbated all the other factors. But the actual catalyst that triggered the rise in “bad guides” came in 2023.

In March 2023, TAAN and NTB announced a ban on solo trekking in Nepal. All foreign trekkers needed a mandatory trekking guide. TIMS cards could no longer be bought by trekkers and could only be bought from registered trekking agencies with TAAN. Trekkers were threatened with fines and worse if they did not have both a TIMS card or a mandatory guide. The problem? Aside from the actual issue of banning solo trekking, TAAN never set up checkpoints to monitor this. They simply took the USD $20 and never implemented their new or updated policy. The international trekking community objected, embassies paid the ministries visits to encourage them not to do this. They did not listen. These are the consequences. This was the actual catalyst to the rise in bad trekking guides in Nepal.

TAAN are meant to provide insurance to guides and porters, manage the safety of trekkers on treks, and provide training to guides. Despite their publicity, little was actually done both prior to the pandemic and most certainly post-pandemic. In fact, TAAN became so inept that the organization broke into two basic entities: TAAN Kathmandu and the breakaway TAAN Pokhara, who were tired of the joint organization not providing things like adequate trekking insurance to guides and porters. Prior to the pandemic, both organizations had checkpoints for trekkers on every trail. Today, there are none. Even with checkpoints, they were not well run, and whenever a trekker went missing, it was a case of looking up logbooks to know their last location. Finally, with training courses, TAAN runs them for new trekking guides for 30 days. Yes, become a trekking guide in 30 days. The curriculum is largely theory. Yes, they have outings, but certainly not on high altitude or full treks. Most of a trekking guide’s learning and experience comes after they get their license and join a company.

The Solukhumbu region (Everest) was the first of the popular trekking destinations in Nepal to leave the TAAN umbrella. They declared TIMS cards as no longer being recognized in the Solukhumbu area and introduced their own. For about two years, TAAN and NTB continued selling TIMS cards. A point that only cemented Solukhumbu, and others’, impressions that the TIMS card and indeed TAAN had no value. Today, more regions are following suit.

Quick Tips for Emergency Situations

• Tourist Police Emergency Number: 1144 (within Nepal)
• Contact nearest National Park Checkpoint or local police
• Ask any teahouse owner for immediate assistance
• Keep your embassy’s contact information handy
• Document all incidents with photos and notes

The 2023 Solo Trekking Ban That Triggered a Rise in Guide Complaints

With TAAN, the trekking ban on solo trekkers, the failure of establishing both checkpoints, difficulties in claiming insurance, poor guide training, forcing independent guides to join companies, and rural municipalities turning their backs on the organization, it lost any sort of authority it once may have had. TAAN became more of a money-sucking bane than being of any value to both trekking agents, guides, and indeed trekkers. Where once a trekking agency caught taking a trekker without a TIMS card would be fined or threatened with being removed from TAAN’s list of registered trekking agents, today it’s merely shrugged off.

Every year, individuals pay to have their trekking companies registered on TAAN’s directory. If one falls foul of someone within TAAN, they simply register a new company name and start over again. Moreover, most of TAAN’s directory and managers seem to own or have a stake in certain trekking companies. The term “conflict of interest” doesn’t seem to matter here. So, one might understand why submitting a complaint to TAAN about a bad guide or trekking agency might not get you very far. And, if it did, it’s likely not to have an impact.

With TAAN losing their “authority,” independent trekking guides aggrieved at having to join trekking companies for work, and trekking companies fed up with paying for nothing with no consequences, we have the catalyst. Over the past year, more and more trekkers have been experiencing bad to serious issues with their trekking guides and agents as there are little to no repercussions. The organization that was set up to help trekkers and guides seems to have lost its way completely. So, what does a trekker do?

Understand What the Problem Is With the Trekking Company or Trekking Guide

Not Guide’s Fault:

• Bad weather conditions
• Trail conditions beyond control
• Seasonal limitations
• Necessary schedule adjustments for safety

Legitimate Complaints:

• Unauthorized schedule changes
• Hidden extra charges
• Unprofessional behavior (drinking, smoking)
• Poor communication
• Safety concerns

Not all problems are the fault of the trekking agency or guide. The weather and trail conditions are two of the big considerations all trekkers need to take into account that are out of everyone’s hands. If you’ve done your trek preparation, you the trekker should know what time of year to visit Nepal, and what to expect then. Secondly, it’s again up to the trekker to research the current trail conditions. The latter might sound difficult, but reading a bad guidebook, a random YouTuber, or the like to think that this is the best trek in the world is not the way to go. You need up-to-date information on a trail. You should also be asking the trekking company long before you arrive the same things. If they are all positive and saying “no problem,” then you might want to think again. If they offer you some up-to-date information, you might be on to a good company.

Likewise, simple questions like asking “does my trekking guide speak good English” also need to be asked. How long have they been a guide? Are they from the area? All these things matter. This is why you should read how to choose a trekking guide in Nepal. There’s a reason I wrote it, there’s a reason it’s the oldest resource out there, that’s why others have tried to copy it, and why I continue to keep it up to date. Things constantly change in Nepal. Which is again why I keep this information up-to-date. And why I’m brutally honest about it. If you don’t ask these questions, you have no fallback.

A trekking agency is not the place to find the answers; they are the ones selling treks, not the ones who act as an ombudsman. Much like buying a car—how likely is it the dealership will highlight the problems vs. how great the car is?

On the flip side of things, some trekkers want to limit their budgets and scrimp on everything. For a guide, they’ll take a porter-guide. Then they’ll expect that the porter-guide act like a fully qualified guide. They are not. They are trainee guides. This one irks me quite a bit as I’ve seen quite a few trekkers in the past few years stay in $100 hotels in Kathmandu, yet gripe over paying a guide $30 a day. Worse yet, pay less for a porter-guide and treat them poorly. In this sense of complaints, there really is none toward the trekking agency so long as they explained any limitations a guide or porter may have.

Being cheated by a trekking agency or guide can happen. It usually happens before you arrive by paying inflated prices. Or if you go to a trekking agent’s website to get information about trekking in Nepal. Again, it’s due diligence and up to the trekker to make sure they are paying the right amount for that trek or getting the correct information about a trek. Every trek in my Trekking in Nepal book contains prices and honest day-by-day walk-throughs. Likewise here on this website. There’s really no reason not to know. Still unsure, my Find a Trekking Guide Service makes everything up front.

Lazy Guides, or Guides Not Wanting Long Treks?

Having a guide who doesn’t want to trek long treks or days is becoming a more common issue. Yes, it’s not a typo. Most treks are 4 hours in the morning and 4 in the afternoon. Again, depending on the trek. If the trekking guide is only taking you 2 hours and insisting it’s enough (aside from acclimatization issues), and again in the afternoon only wants to trek for 2 hours, then yes, there’s a problem. Some agencies draw out itineraries to make more money from a trekker by increasing the number of days there are on a trek. Again, you need to do your research first. If, on the other hand, the guide is not giving you a good reason or refusing to communicate, then you do indeed have a problem.

The next issue is that many trekking guides don’t want to go on long treks. They want the short 3-5 day treks. Why? It means more money for them going on several short treks in a season than one long one. They get more tip money into their hands too. Again, the lack of regulation here comes into play. Tip money usually goes directly into a guide’s hands versus salaries, which usually go to the trekking company who then pay the guide. Guides prefer short treks as there’s a greater chance of getting more tips into their hands. Not sure about tipping guides? Learn about how much you should tip a trekking guide in Nepal?

Keep in mind: guides that are drinking alcohol every night or smoking while trekking are also becoming increasing issues for trekkers. Being charged extra for things like meals or accommodation are issues. A lot of this comes from younger seasonal guides looking to make some cash on the side. All guides should tell you up front the cost of something. And, if necessary, explain why it should be paid, e.g., hot showers when your trek package does not include hot showers, etc. Again, doing your research before a trek will save you all this hassle with bad trekking guides in Nepal.

How to Deal With Complaints About a Bad Trekking Guide or Agency

Firstly, it’s probably best to deal directly with your guide if there is an issue. Let’s say smoking during the day. A quick conversation that you don’t like smoking might solve the issue. Simply stewing away and muttering to yourself won’t get you anything except high blood pressure. If the guide continues to smoke, then a more serious conversation could be had but not an argumentative one. If that fails, you may have to contact the trekking agency itself and explain the situation. This is usually done by phone, and not email. Though if they have a good rapport with WhatsApp or messaging, it could be an option.

So what happens if the trekking agency says they’ve done something about it, but the issue persists? Well, you’ll need to contact them again. There’s a good chance that one of the better agencies has contacted the guide and asked them to stop. If they didn’t, depending on where you are on the trek, you don’t have many options. The trekking agency might offer to send out another guide. But it will cost them a lot, so they’ll be reluctant. The previous guide will want a salary, the new guide will want a salary, and they both will want transport fees. You also don’t really want to be trekking with a trekking guide that is just about to be replaced, as they more than likely won’t be in a good mood. A good option, if you have the time, is to stay in the same place while a new guide comes. But a better option, depending on the situation, would be to let the smoking issue pass and make a complaint later.

What if the situation is more serious and the guide or agency don’t do anything? Again, depending on the situation, you may decide to cancel the trek and lodge an official complaint. In the rise of complaints, cancelling a trek in the middle of a trek is still rare. Most people resort to contacting the agency, and if unsuccessful, want to lodge an official complaint when they return to Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Naturally enough, if there is a serious issue on the trek, there are either National Park Checkpoints (different to TAAN), police, or rural municipality offices throughout trekking regions. If you don’t know where to find one, asking a teahouse or lodge owner will help. Likewise, if you are not comfortable with trying to find any of the aforementioned by yourself, you could also call into a teahouse or lodge and ask to speak to the owner, tell them the issue, and that you need help. They will know who to contact nearby. Nepali people in rural areas are generous and helpful. If you are in distress, they can find you help.

Step-by-Step Problem Resolution:

1. Direct conversation with guide
2. Document the issue
3. Contact trekking agency
4. Seek local assistance if needed
5. File official complaints if unresolved

Alternative Reporting Options

Post-trek, if your complaint is about a trekking guide, then your first port of call will be the trekking company you hired the guide from.

If you feel the trekking company has not acted, or your complaint is about the trekking company, then officially, TAAN is the only organization who is “meant” to act on complaints about bad trekking guides in Nepal. Unfortunately, you may not get much satisfaction from them.

• Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN) (Kathmandu) +977-1-4540920, 4540921, 4527473 info@taan.org.np taansecretariat@gmail.com https://www.taan.org.np/
• Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN) TAAN Gandaki (Pokhara) +977 61-456921 info@taanpokhara.org https://taanpokhara.org/ https://www.facebook.com/p/TAAN-Gandaki-100064495640725/
• Ministry of Tourism (Kathmandu) +977-1-4211620, 4211846 info@tourism.gov.np, it@tourism.gov.np https://www.tourism.gov.np
• Nepal Tourist Police Bhrikutimandap Kathmandu (Inside the premises of Nepal Tourism Board) +977-1-4247041, 1144 Within Nepal dial 1144 policetourist@nepalpolice.gov.np www.nepalpolice.gov.np

If the trail and its conditions are the issue, then the National Park officials are who you should complain to. Details for each National Park will be on your permit. Otherwise, your embassy is a good place to complain to.

More Proactive Places to Make a Complaint About a Trekking Guide, Agency, or Even Trail Conditions

Your own embassy, if they have a presence in Nepal, is a good place to send a complaint. Embassies received a lot of complaints about the 2023 solo trekking ban and many brought these complaints to the ministry and others within the tourism industry of Nepal. If your embassy simply brushes it off, then it might be time to contact your department of foreign affairs at home about that embassy in Nepal. They are there to support you, so make use of them!

Missing Trekker has a form for reporting bad trekking guides or agencies in Nepal. They have been independently logging and reporting on missing trekkers in Nepal for over a decade and have also started taking reports from trekkers on bad trekking guides, bad trekking agents, and even bad trail conditions. They will also reply to you with further information that may help. Moreover, they will keep your complaint confidential and will use the information to highlight the issue. Simply fill out their form on reporting a bad trekking guide in Nepal.

Complaint Documentation Checklist

• Written details of incidents
• Photos or videos if relevant
• Copies of all payments and receipts
• Communication records with agency
• Guide’s license number if possible

Or

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Langtang National Park Requests Mandatory Trekking Guides

In February 2025, an official letter from Langtang National Park was sent to the Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN). The park officials requested that all trekkers, foreign and Nepali, should no longer trek solo and should have a trekking guide for the Langtang trek. They cited past years’ incidents of missing trekkers, injuries, and difficulties encountered by solo trekkers. This raises the question: Is solo trekking allowed in Langtang?

What does this mean for trekkers planning a Langtang trek without a guide? Let me summarize for those of you short on time and eager to go trekking: It doesn’t mean much yet. TAAN hasn’t set up any checkpoints since the pandemic.

For those wanting more details on what has become a yearly outcry about banning solo trekking in Nepal, let’s delve into what’s really going on.

Langtang’s “Ban” on Solo Trekkers: A Ban Already in Place?

The letter itself is puzzling. In March 2023, TAAN and the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) made a significant announcement, “banning” solo trekking in Nepal. Guides were declared mandatory, and TIMS cards were made available only through trekking agencies. Adding insult to injury, these new dictates were only aimed at non-Nepali trekkers. NTB and TAAN completely left out Nepali trekkers, despite large numbers of Nepali trekkers going missing, getting injured and indeed dieing when trekking.

The result? A mess. TAAN never established any checkpoints. In fact, there haven’t been any since the pandemic. The NTB claims you’ll be fined, turned back, etc., without a guide or a TIMS card. Yet, there are no checkpoints to enforce this. TAAN wrote to all their members after the Langtang letter, stating that all trekkers should have guides.

The Solukhumbu region completely rejected TAAN, NTB, and TIMS cards, stating they were useless and retaining the money raised themselves. Instead, they banned TIMS cards and created their own local permits.

Why Would Langtang National Park Make This Request?

Why would Langtang National Park request what is already supposedly in place? Why would they cite missing trekkers, injuries, etc., when not one trekker has been publicly reported as missing from the region in several years? In the 2000s, Langtang had serious issues with trekkers being mugged, assaulted, and robbed near Lama Village. These problems largely disappeared about ten years ago. Then, in 2015, the earthquake devastated the area. So, Langtang has had its share of challenges, but none seem to stem from trekkers going missing—at least not recently. This makes one wonder: Do I need a trekking guide for Langtang in 2025?

Again, it’s a bizarre letter, considering the “ban” is already in effect. Perhaps Langtang National Park is also wondering where the TAAN checkpoints are and are prompting them to act. Why? Well, the Churibu Rural Municipality has established its own checkpoint and is charging trekkers a fee to enter the Manaslu trek. Mardi Himal tried the same, and Solukhumbu (Everest) is currently doing it. Simply put, there’s revenue potential.

What’s even more bizarre is that TAAN, in perhaps their greatest act of speed in recent years, immediately sent out a letter to all trekking agents requesting they send a mandatory guide with all trekkers in the Langtang region. It’s a contradictory letter as this is what TAAN have been instructing trekking agents to do since 2023 anyway. And, if trekkers are going solo to Langtang then why would trekking agents need this letter? It’s not as if the solo trekkers will be calling into them and saying “We’re all off to Langtang without you. Just in case you want to tell us anything?”

One hypothesis is that If TAAN isn’t planning checkpoints, Langtang National Park might be considering setting up its own and disregarding TIMS cards and TAAN altogether. There’s a hint of this in the letter as they specifically requested guides for both non-Nepali and Nepali. The latter numbers have greatly increased in recent years due to the close proximity Langtang is to Kathmandu and increased wealth within Nepali youth circles. This letter may be a test balloon for the possibility of a highly profitable new rural permit. If it is, TAAN just swallowed the bait. If not, then a second hypothesis is that this is all just balderdash to put anxiety into solo trekkers to hire a guide and therefore buy a TIMS card for the upcoming season.

Are There *Any* Checkpoints in Langtang National Park?

Here things get even stranger! Yes, there *are* checkpoints in Langtang National Park—army and police checkpoints. It’s a wildlife reserve, and they’re looking to stop wildlife traffickers. They stop everyone entering the area, including trekkers, for a bag search and to check documents.

They do ask for a trekker’s Langtang National Park Permit and TIMS card. The National Park permit is essential. However, if a trekker doesn’t have a TIMS card or a guide, they’ve simply been allowed to proceed. Why? Well, they probably don’t want the hassle of fining a trekker for something surrounded by so much uncertainty and lacking official announcements from the Ministry of Tourism (the real people in charge of such mandates in Nepal). Moreover, the army post would likely face significant push-back from locals for turning tourists away—much like what happened to a checkpoint in Mardi Himal.

However, if Langtang National Park encouraged the rural municipality in the area to create a local permit and checkpoint, that would likely generate funds for the area which may well be supported by the local municipality if implemented properly.

Do You Need a TIMS Card and a Guide for Langtang National Park?

Well, according to the letter, Langtang National Park are telling TAAN (who is responsible for such checkpoints) that there should be mandatory guides. Yet, TAAN doesn’t have one in place. TAAN, in return, are telling trekking agents that they should send a guide with trekkers … which again is a complete contradiction as they should be anyway.

There’s an alleged $125 fine that no one has been charged with yet. Again, there are no checkpoints to issue fines. This recent “news” about a Langtang National Park letter requesting that guides be mandatory has simply highlighted this lack of clarity.

Nepal lacks clear answers on this issue, which is bizarre, hurts the country’s trekking reputation, impacts local businesses negatively, and reduces the number of tourists coming to Nepal. The blame falls squarely on TAAN and NTB for this. For trekkers, the best advice is: If this is your first time trekking in Nepal, then yes, hiring a guide is a great way to learn, be safe, and gain experience trekking in Nepal (which can be a different experience than trekking in other countries).  Even if you have experience trekking in Nepal, and you want to trek the difficult Ganja La Pass in Langtang then it’s highly recommended you take a trekking guide. For those who want to trek solo, the choice is yours—for now.

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It started as some fun and also a learning experience. I really wanted to do something a bit different with this project. If I were to host a Nepal Podcast alone, it would either be information overload, and I’d probably start ranting too much about the shenanigans that go on in Nepal with the so-called industries and organizations there. Interesting for industry insiders, sure. But for travelers thinking or planning on going to Nepal for the first time, it wouldn’t really work. Instead, I took a completely different approach than any other podcast.

Two podcasters and an author. That’s the so-called tagline. Two podcasters will use my work to discuss and analyze the topic themselves and share it with listeners. I’d produce the content. We’d have someone produce the actual show. And we’d create some nice illustrations for the Nepal Travel Podcast to make it more fun. So we have Ryan Last, Sarah Kumar, Ashia Hart, Sarah Muni, and myself.  Pocket Casts and some great podcasters there were one of the driving forces for pushing this forward as a unique idea to help travelers on their way to Nepal. Likewise, Anita from Spotify who helped technically.

The results … wow. Podcasting has become a lot harder than it was before! There was a podcast here back in 2008! Made for those who were hard of sight. Today software can read aloud what’s on a website. Meanwhile, over the past few years, Podcasting, in it’s own right, seems to have have taken off. And, become far more complicated to set up compared to before! I thought we’d be done in a couple of weeks. Two months later, and there were still “issues”. But we made it. And here it is.

What will be in the Nepal Uncovered Podcast, and why should I listen?

Why should you listen? Because the quality of content is top-notch, and it has the unique format of two podcasters discussing a single topic every week. It’s not some long-winded Nepal Podcast about someone’s trip to Nepal or why they think you should go and how great it was. Each episode will be an in-depth, fun discussion about a topic. We’ll be covering the basics and also going really deep into subjects that some people in the industry don’t want to talk about, but tourists going there really should be aware about.

I listen, on a regular basis, to one long-term podcast. And, I’ve about 4 more in reserve. None, of them are about travel. One is by a stand-up comedian who puts the terrors into the politically correct types out there, and the others about some non travel interests I have. The one thing they all share is, they do a great job at putting me to sleep. I don’t mean that in a negative way, most have me in a happy mood. But, as most are three hours long, I tend to drift off. I wanted to avoid this with Nepal Uncovered. I wanted short, fun, informative episodes that would help people on a specific topic about Nepal. Something they can listen to on a quick commute, before bed (without drifting off), making a meal, or simply whenever they wanted to learn a bit more before their trip.

I took this on as a separate project from The Longest Way Home! I set up an old domain I had, longestway.com, as a simple site to explain more about the podcast. The team is using genuine guides and topics I’ve written about, and custom wrote for the show. We are letting two podcasters do whatever they want with it—meaning I have no say in how they decipher it (that was tough). More than that, we used AI to set everything up. A whole new learning curve using a controversial subject matter. This was part of the learning curve.

AI is one of the reasons I did not want to host the podcast here: Everything on The Longest Way Home is 100% human-made (by me), and I don’t want to be introducing AI just for a small, fun learning project like this. Can you listen to the podcast here? Well, depending on how it does, I might set up a page so it can be listened to, just like an external YouTube or Spotify player. Other than that, consider the podcast a separate entity for now!

Why didn’t you create The Longest Way Home Podcast?

Because I don’t have the time or resources to produce something that I would consider good enough for listeners to enjoy. I’d have to buy a lot of equipment and carry it around. It’s hard enough to do that with cameras and laptops for guidebook research, etc. Moreover, I’d then have to sync up with another host or guests in between different time zones. Then, I would have to edit the thing … which these days is far more time-consuming than back in the day with simpler audio editing tools. Do I really want to study a guide about online male audio pitches? Not really.

On top of that, you then need to spend a horrible amount of time dealing with podcast distributors, pleading and applying to have your podcast on their network. Thanks to Pocket Casts for keeping things going. Add to all this, there’s zero financial incentive to running a Nepal Travel Podcast! Zero. As in nada. It’s not like a talk show podcast type situation, or a universal subject like cooking, whereby you can start talking about the latest movie reviews, politics, diet fads, or whatever else gets listeners’ attention these days. It’s a podcast about traveling to Nepal. If people are going to listen to it, they are going to do so to find out about topics surrounding their specific reason for travel to the country, and once that’s over … well, they’ll stop listening. Yes, a few expats will like a few of the topics and stay tuned, but to say a Nepal Podcast is going to rock the world and make money through advertising is … quite over the top. Try explaining that to some distributors who only cared about their bottom dollar or minimum subscribers to be hosted.

I really didn’t mind having “advertising” injected into the podcast if it meant a podcast distributor would broadcast our episodes. But, it seems other networks would object as they wouldn’t be their ads. I’ve some experience in network distribution and could understand all this. It still didn’t make it any easier. Thankfully, again, we made it. And, it’s advertising free! Well, aside from our hosts plugging my guidebooks – but then again, why not, it’s our show.

Hence, we did this for fun, learning, and to see if it was possible! And hopefully, deliver a good listening experience to people thinking about visiting Nepal, wanting to learn more about travel in Nepal, and unleash a few topics that will rock the “system” a bit. Well, it wouldn’t be something I’m involved in without upsetting a few in the industry with some hard truths, would it?!

What to expect from Nepal Uncovered: Travel Podcast.

10 episodes have been recorded. They are about 20 minutes in length, so no long head-nodding, listen-before-bed type episodes. They’ll be lively, with two hosts going over a topic that I’ve written about and openly discussing them for you, the listener, to enjoy, learn, and also hopefully have the odd chuckle at.

Part of the chuckle will hopefully come from the excellent artwork each episode will come with. Hopefully, your own podcast player will display the art. Otherwise, the two best places to see the artwork will be on Nepal Travel Podcast itself or YouTube, which allows full-screen illustrations. The latter, was one of the biggest hang-ups for the entire show. Podcast distributors all seem to deal with square images. And, we (alright, just me), wanted the full landscape illustration. We could only do this on YouTube by using a different format. It was time consuming almost to the point where I was being told “is it really worth it?” hint, hint. Well, I finally found a really quick way to do it. So, lessons learned. Though, if there are to be more episodes, I might suggest square illustrations and no funny captions going forward … though again, I’m not sure how that would look. Anyway, check out YouTube or Nepal Uncovered if you’d like to see the illustrations and the weekly jokes within them.

I really fought hard to stay as hands-off this as possible with the podcast discussions. From episodes 1-4, we were really feeling our way. I think from episodes 5-10, we cracked it. I’m really happy with those episodes in particular. So, if you are going to be listening in, do hang in there until episode 5 at least. If there are any corrections, there will be show notes both on Nepal Uncovered: Travel Podcast website and in the descriptions on the various podcasting networks.

Will there be more episodes? Who knows. It was meant to be a two-week project that ended up taking two months. We’ve streamlined it now, so if there are future episodes, it won’t be difficult to produce them. Ultimately, the deciding factor will be if people listen and enjoy it. We enjoyed making it, so that’s been the biggest accomplishment so far. That, learning how to do it all, along with the fact that nobody has done something like this before—I always like that element of things. Basically, if we get listeners, or positivity, there’s a strong chance there will be more episodes.

Update: 9 episodes in and we hit the top 25 Travel & Places podcast on GoodPods. We were not expecting that! Nor were we expecting to have so many listeners with positive feedback. While we were planning to do two seasons a year with 10 episodes each, we’ll simply extend the length of this, our first season, to 20 episodes for now and take it from there.

While the show has it’s own website, we’ll likely scale that side of things back and simply host it here in the future on a single page. Likewise, it seems the team won with the humorous illustration captions and we’ll scale them back too while keeping the individual illustrations. Though I might sneak a few in here and there!

Where can I listen to or subscribe to Nepal Uncovered: Travel Podcast

It takes about 24 hours for new episodes to appear on all Podcast distributors, so new episodes will continue to be on a Monday/Tuesday to start your week off well. We are on the largest podcasting distributor out there, Nepal Uncovered on Spotify (do please add the show and give us a rating), Nepal Uncovered on Apple Podcasts, and for those nice illustrations we are on YouTube Podcasts right now (please like & subscribe).

We’re also on Pocket Casts (shout out to Jim & the team there), Podbean, Castbox, Castro, Sonnet, Podcast Addict, and Podcast Republic.

You can also listen on Nepal Uncovered where there will also be transcriptions. Like all podcasts, you can also just copy the Nepal Uncovered RSS into your own player and listen from there.

Finally, on the Nepal Uncovered FAQ there’s should be a list of more places to find the podcast. There are multiple episodes out now, with more episodes being released on a weekly basis going forward.

The above post first appeared on Nepal Uncovered: Travel Podcast Launches which is © copyright 2022 www.thelongestwayhome.com
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