Girard-Perregaux 1966 chronograph 42 mm

We are seeing a new grand classic amongst The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph Watches

The 2012 Girard-Perregaux 1966 chronograph comes to us in new proportions, it has now taken the guise of a 42mm case as is obvious from our title on this watch review. This new size case diameter allows Girard-Perregaux to add the measurement of short time periods on the 1966 chronograph, it also allows Girard- Perregaux circum to the watch enthusiasts’ current demands of larger faced watches.

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 chronograph is still discreet and has its expected classic elegance, but with a new dial that encompases today’s need for functionality, it also definately makes the dial much more legible along with the addition of the strident arabic numeralsnow in place on the 1966 Chronograph. This size increase has done nothing to dulling the look and feel of the 1966 Chronograph in my opinion Girard-Perregaux has enhanced the feel of the 1966 Chronograph and at the same time its possible market too.

The 1966 Chronograph 42mm has a Pink gold case, which has a fabulous finish as would be expected from such a manufacture, the Pink Gold adds an interesting contrast to the Blue hands, and in my opinion make the hands stand out, but does not divert or take from the Chronographs equisite looks.

As we have a new size and layout for The 2012 Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm’s dial, it would be wrong not to comment on it, The dial has the date at 6 o’clock and an elegant blue central second hand circling above it. Furthermore we have it’s tachymetric scale on the external circumference, highlighting its technical character. The 1966 Chronograph has two counters, one at 3 o’clock and the other at 9 o’clock being a 30 minute counter and seconds counter.

The dial also boasts Arabic numerals in pink gold (and yes i know the photo provided by Girard-Perregaux above has the 4 and 5 numerals in the incorrect places, oh oooh, someone at GP is going to get a talking to, or is it just a little taboo they do to make us interested). That aside these subtle refinements have allowed the dial offers an optimum time display. Oh and if anyone is interested the photo below has the 4 and 5 numerals in the correct places.

As we all know, (well the watch aficinados out there) The Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection is a stable of the Girard-Perregaux watchmaker and is probably its iconic collection to boot, proving this is the fact that the 1966 Chronograph is adourned with the Girard-Perregaux manufactured 3300-0057 self-winding mechanical movement. This movement provides over 46 hours power reserve.

 Technical Details – Girard-Perregaux 1966 chronograph 42mm

Reference: 49542-52-151-BK6A

Case in pink gold with anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case back: with sapphire crystal

Diameter: 42.00 mm

Water resistance: 30 meters

Crown: pink gold, engraved with the GP logo

Dial: opaline silver

Hand: “leaf” type

Movement: Girard-Perregaux 3300-0057, Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions: hour, minute, small second, chronograph, date

Calibre: 11 ½ ”’

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4 Hz)

Jewels: 57

Power reserve: minimum 46 hours

Winding: self-winding, oscillating weight in pink gold with “Côtes de Genève” engraving

Alligator-skin strap with Ardillon buckle in pink gold

You may also like our article on the Girard Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar

A New Trend for Jaquet Droz – The Grande Heure Onyx Watch

Written By: D Constant for The Watch Review Site

As tradition has it the creations bearing the Jaquet Droz signature have always been grounded in excellence and imagination as can be seen when looking at Jaquet Droz historically. As normal and expected by Jaquet Droz and their timepieces which take the watchmakers history and encompass it with innovation, then add the gleam of metal which enhances the rare beauty of mineral dials used.

In keeping with this exclusive legacy, Jaquet Droz pursues its ethos by introducing two new elegant yet different timepieces, here at The Watch Review Site we will be looking at the Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx which is part of the Majestic Beijing Jaquet Droz Collection, and is due to be launched at an exclusive watch retailer near you in May 2012.

The Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx Watch

The Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx is created from a single cut disc of onyx (well the dial is), which when cut by the Jaquet Droz dialmakers bring out a stunning coloured black dial. The deep colour makes the dial look impecable and crystal like. The watchmakers behind the Grande Heure Onyx refer to the dial and its thoughts as time being reinvented on a dark night.

Other than the superb dial the first thiong that jumps out at you is the lack of Minute and Second Hands on the Jaquet Droz Grande Onyx, The only hand on the watch is the hour hand all others have vanished from the face of the watch…

How does that work I hear you ask? The dial has 24 numerals on it not the normal 12, numbered 1 to 24 dictating each hour of the day, hence the hour hand rounds once a day, The 12 hour mark is at the usual 12 o’clock position with the 24 at the standard 6 o’clock position.

This innovative dial reflects Jaquet Droz’s new take on the philosophy of time, the dial is an inspiring sight for the eyes and the simplicity adds to its beauty, continuing this theme the striking Black Onyx dial contrasting with the bright steel case proving to be a fabulous sight . Highlioghting the whole concept is again the single hour hand and the choice of Jaquet Droz’s Simple round case tops off this watch.

The Grande Heure Onyx is a typical Jaquet Droz timepiece and will attarct the watch aficionados of this world. As we all know a true timepiece connoisseur see much more to time than taking the frenzied pulse of everyday life: the mystery of its passing and the magic of its daily rebirth are an endless source of fascination, and the Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx does not fail here either.

Its a lovely timepiece with a twist, at first glance it looks like a standard Jaquet Droz Watch (if there is such a thing as a standard Jaquet Droz Watch), but closer inspection leads you to a 24 hour dial with one hand…..

Technical Details – Jaquet Droz – Grande Heure Onyx Watch 

 Reference: J025030270

Movement: Jaquet Droz 24JD53, self winding mechanical movement, double barrel, heavy metal oscillating weight.

Indications: Centered hours

Jewels: 28

Power Reserve: 68 hours

Frequency: 28,800 vph

Case: Stainless Steel

Diameter: 43mm

Water Resistance: 3 Bar or 30 meters

Dial: Black onyx

Strap: Rolled edge hand made black alligator leather strap

Buckle: Stainless Steel ardillon

Hublot forms a connection to 150 years BCE and, in association with the Archaeological Museum of Athens, presents man’s first astronomical calculator

Hublot Press Release – 5th April 2012

The Hublot “Tribute to the Antikythera Mechanism” movement has joined the Archaeological Museum of Athens’ collection alongside the remains of the original vessel, treasure and Antikythera mechanism, which have been reunited for the first time since their discovery in 1901.

This exhibition, opened by the Greek Minister for Culture, has already been hailed as a major event for the scientific and archaeological community.

It is a singular event. The ultimate stamp of approval for the work and ingenuity of the watchmakers: the Swiss watch firm Hublot is extremely honoured to have been invited by the Archaeological Museum of Athens to present the “Tribute to the Antikythera Mechanism” movement, the famed astronomical calculator, which probably dates from the 2nd century BCE, and the remains of which were discovered in Greek waters in 1900. This instrument shows the different cycles of the sun and the moon and, in all likelihood, the planets, with the greatest precision.

Attended by the Greek Minister for Culture and the Director of the Archaeological Museum of Athens, Dr Nikolaos Kaltsas, the Hublot movement officially joined the National Museum’s collection on the 5th April 2012 and will now be on display alongside the remains of the original mechanism. It is the first time that a museum of archaeology has invited a watch manufacturer to exhibit a movement as part of its collections.

The approach

Barely six months ago, at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris, Hublot unveiled the movement it had developed to the public. It is still on display as part of the exhibition entitled “Antikythera, the enigmatic machine which arose from the depths of time” until December 2012, paying tribute to man’s ingenuity and creativity.

At the behest of Jean-Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot, only 4 Antikythera movements would be created. Four, and no more. No commercialisation. The project has the purest of intentions.

The first movement is already on display at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris, the second is today officially joining the collection of the Archaeological Museum of Athens, the third will be put up for auction to raise funds for the Archaeological Museum of Athens to conserve the original Antikythera mechanism. Finally, the fourth and last will be kept by Hublot at its manufacture in Switzerland, with the watchmakers who created it.

Hublot also wanted to pay tribute to this masterpiece of Antiquity by reproducing the mechanism in miniature, resulting in a movement with the dimensions of a wristwatch, adding to it hours, minutes and a tourbillon escapement system. The perfect fusion between ancient and modern times. The various known indications of the Antikythera “machine” have been faithfully reproduced on this wristwatch, both on the front and the back. The primary face of the movement shows: the calendar for the Panhellenic games (including the ancient Olympic games, the precursor to our modern Olympics), the Egyptian calendar, the position of the sun and the movement and phases of the Moon in the constellations of the Zodiac. On the back of the watch movement, the lunar/solar astronomical cycles can be found: Callippic, Metonic, Saros and Exeligmos.

The Antikythera mechanism is one of the most mysterious objects in the history of civilisation. Nowadays it is renowned and studied in great detail by the scientific community, but when it was first discovered back in 1901, its great historical and technical value remained a mystery to be uncovered. The very idea of a “machine” created in Greco-Roman Antiquity did not enter the conceptual framework of the specialists of the time. Thereafter, obscurantist statements from non-scientists claimed that the artefacts from Antikythera were almost extraterrestrial in nature, which only served to muddy the waters.

Toothed wheels eaten away by corrosion

The fragments of this “machine” were only analysed in-depth, taking a multidisciplinary approach, at the beginning of the 21st century. This work enabled the complexity of this extraordinary mechanism to be better understood. We now know that this “astronomical instrument” dates from the 2nd century BCE (circa 150 – 100 BCE,). Originally, it served as a “calculator”; its bronze gear trains were housed in a wooden box measuring approximately 33 cm x 18 cm and its case was sealed with two bronze plaques covered with inscriptions.

Only 82 fragments of this “machine” still remain, some minuscule, all corroded: they are now forever protected in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. A state-of-the-art tomography study (using an X-ray scanner) has provided images which can be used both scientifically and archaeologically, revealing numerous internal gear trains which are invisible to the naked eye, toothed wheels and new inscriptions hidden under the concretions: less than a quarter of the ancient Greek lettering of this text engraved on the “machine” has successfully been deciphered, but it is believed to be a sort of “user guide” for the mechanical calculator, also thought to show the movement of some major planets. The gears were driven by what is believed to be a side handwheel – but the possibility of an auxiliary hydraulic system has not been ruled out.

On the trail of the great Archimedes…

It is now accepted that this machine could have been designed in Rhodes, home to a community of astronomers including Hipparchus, as well as mechanical engineers such as Posidonios. A new hypothesis has been put forward: this machine could be closely linked to Syracuse, in Sicily, the city of the famous mathematical genius Archimedes, then a prosperous Corinthian colony, or even with the city-state of Corinth itself. The Antikythera mechanism could have been designed there decades before the shipwreck which subsequently gave the large island its name.

According to current knowledge and based on the inscriptions which have been deciphered, the Antikythera mechanism could show the different cycles of the sun, the moon and (in all likelihood) the planets, relating these to the civil calendars of a Greek city (Corinth or one of its colonies), and showing the dates of the most prestigious games of the ancient world…. The study of the Antikythera mechanism – only very recently begun – is far from being finished, but it has given rise to a great wave of reinterpretation and reassessment of our knowledge of Antiquity. The reality of the mechanical knowledge held by these Greek scholars is a fantastic field to explore. It may even be that a record is found, in the texts or in the hidden reserves of museums, of other “machines” like the Antikythera mechanism.

The Antikythera mechanism is not a clock capable of showing the time: ancient civilisations did not experience time as we do. A genuine cosmograph (a machine to describe the cosmos), and also a selenograph (a machine to describe the complex movements of the Moon), the Antikythera mechanism was highly accurate and could show multiple astronomical cycles, including the Metonic cycle (named after the Greek astronomer Meton: it runs for 19 years, equal to 235 lunar months) or the Callippic cycle (named after the Greek astronomer Callippus: it runs for 76 years, equal to 940 lunar months of four Metonic cycles). The Antikythera mechanism also showed the Saros cycle (223 lunar months covering just over 18 years), as well as the Exeligmos cycle (equivalent to three Saros cycles, or 54 years) which served especially to predict possible eclipses. The volume of astronomical data compiled to create a mathematical model able to summarise such cycles using mechanical gear trains is astonishing evidence of the conceptual abilities of the scholars and engineers of Antiquity. Given that a computer can generate data other than that entered into it, the Antikythera “machine” really is the first mechanical computer known to man. It was a good thousand years ahead of the first astronomical clocks created on a whole different scale in the main European cities in the Middle Ages.

The first watch ever to be inspired by an archaeological find

In 2006 and 2008, the revelation by the scientific journal Nature of tomographic analyses performed on the fragments of the machine certainly fuelled the imagination of some less conservative watchmakers. Mathias Buttet, current Director of Research and Development at the Hublot manufacture, wanted to pay homage to the historical legacy which this first mechanical masterpiece represents. A technical tribute and a miniature recreation of the entire Antikythera mechanism as revealed by scientific analysis, crafted to fit perfectly on the wrist. It is also a homage to watchmaking, as it adds a new dimension to this astronomical calculator: that of a timepiece in its own right, capable of accurately measuring the time. It is the first time in the history of watches that a watchmaking development office has taken direct inspiration in this way from an “archaeological” mechanism dating back to Antiquity. It is also the first time that a watchmaking team has worked hand in hand with a team of scientists bringing together leading international figures in archaeology, epigraphy and historians of mechanical engineering.

The watchmakers helped the archaeologists to better understand some gear trains and to confirm some hypotheses relating to the mechanics, while the scientists shared with the watchmakers technical solutions hitherto lost in Antiquity (in particular circular gears with non-linear cycles). The sheer ability of the mechanical engineers of Antiquity to create such efficient bronze gear trains opens up new horizons in their philosophical relationships with technical progress and with the place of machines in their conception of the world – which can only in turn make us question our own relationship with modern-day machines and “gadgets”…

Faithful reproduction of the astronomical indications of the mechanism conceived by the ancient Greeks

The challenge facing Mathias Buttet’s team was to integrate a watchmaking heart within a miniaturised reinterpretation of the Antikythera mechanism, respecting the architecture of the original, and in particular its double-sided display. The team’s first task was to create in a few cubic centimetres what the mechanical engineers of Antiquity had developed over several thousand cubic centimetres, ensuring their creation was perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the original mechanism, both in terms of its accuracy and the legibility of its indications.

The hours and minutes are displayed in the conventional manner, at the centre of the movement recreated by Hublot and presented for the first time at the Musée des Arts et Métiers de Paris (the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Paris), as part of its exhibition entitled “Antikythera, the enigmatic machine which arose from the depths of time”. This watchmaking movement is regulated by a conventional tourbillon whose “cage” at 3 o’clock completes one revolution in one minute.

The various known indications of the Antikythera “machine” have been faithfully reproduced on this miniature miracle, both on the front and the back. The primary face of the movement shows: the calendar for the Panhellenic games (which designated those cities hosting the games), the Egyptian calendar (12 months each of 30 days, with the epagomenal, or additional, days), the position of the sun in the constellations of the Zodiac, the phases of the Moon (with a magnificent hand and aperture which shows the position of the Moon in the zodiac throughout the sidereal month), as well as the sidereal year. The back of the watchmaking movement shows the Callippic cycle, the Metonic cycle, the Saros cycle and the Exeligmos cycle.

A modern micro-mechanical tribute to the mechanical engineers of Antiquity

This is the first time in the history of timepieces that these cycles – a legacy from Antiquity – have been studied, reproduced and displayed mechanically: to create some of these gears, the Hublot team had to develop a highly innovative concept of noncircular telescopic hands, capable of pointing to the spiral discs of varying radii.

A 2D and 3D film made by Hublot to illustrate the link between the expertise of the mechanical engineers of Antiquity and their 21st century watchmaking counterparts. The 2d is above it can also be viewed on YouTube in 3D http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZshnuELoAc&context=C41e24e1ADvjVQa1PpcFMoK4MjjZts8ljVp5Ta8zruW9qcBt342CA

Technical details – Hublot Antikythera Calibre 2033-CH01

Movement functions Hours, minutes, Seconds via the tourbillon cage

Flying tourbillon without ball bearing

Manual winding 

View of dial, Egyptian Calendar, Calendar for the Panhellenic games

Zodiac Aperture showing moon Lunar phases, Aperture showing sun

View of bridges, Metonic cycle, Saros cycle, Callippic cycle, Exeligmos cycle

Main characteristics

Dimensions: Width 30.40 mm of shaped movement, Length 38.00 mm, Thickness 14.14 mm (overall dimensions)

Time-setting stem (3 o’clock), Manual Winding 2-position Time setting

Number of jewels 69

Number of components 495

Hairspring Flat for extremely accurate setting

Frequency 21,600 Vib/h (3 Hz)

Power reserve Approximately 120 hours (5 days)

Oscillator (made in-house) Balance with adjustment inertia-blocks

Moment of inertia: 16mg/cm2

Lift angle: 53°

Shock absorbers  Shock absorption for main plate and balance bridge

Main plate and bridges Brass, bevelled with drawn rims, and circular-grained recesses

Coating: black ruthenium

Dial showing cycles and calendar Circular-graining, 5N gold coating

Gear train Circular-grained & bevelled wheels, coating: rhodium, rolled pinions

Fasteners Polished and bevelled heads, rounded and polished ends

Steel parts Satin-finished, bevelled, with drawn rims

Christophe Claret and Parmigiani Bet on Poker

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/brands/christophe_claret/christophe-claret-and-parmigiani-bet-on-poker.html

The Story of Jaquet Droz – Watchmaker Since 1783

Written By: D Constant for The Watch Review Site

The Beginning – How it all started

The story of Jaquet Droz the Watchmaker began with Pierre Jaquet Droz and his sons, and can be seen as one of the most moving stories in Horology history. Pierre Jaquet Droz born 1721, was know to be a mechanical genius, creator of jewellery watchmaking and composer of poetry and was one of the most fascinating figures of the period.

Pierre’s mastery of complex mechanisms and movements allowed him to become a master of automata and his creations were also genuine works of art, from singing birds, fountains, and musical watches to name a few.

Pierre Jaquet droz was the creator of The Writer (1775), which was a unique automaton and a true piece of art, which consisted 0f a six hundred piece mechanism and was extremely complex, much more intricate than those of other automata of its time. It could be set to write any text of up to forty letters or symbols on a smooth piece of paper, as if on a typewriter. Two other automata, The Musician and The Draftsman, were designed by his two sons, both of whom were trained by Pierre. These creations can still be admired today some 200 years later at the Neuchâtel Museum of Art and History in Switzerland.

Pierre Jaquet Droz was always at the forefront of developments in watchmaking, creating limited series that were seen as true artistic masterpieces. His ingenuity and talent were recognized throughout the world and applauded by all the Courts of Europe,Russia and even China.

Pierre in his wisdom surrounded himself with the best watchmakers, alchemists, mechanics, enamellers and gemstone craftsmen and opened three Manufactures:

La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1738, He begun absorbing the rudiments of watchmaking and mechanics in his father’s farm workshop very quickly. From this workshop in La Ferme sur le Pont in 1738, he started producing and selling standing and table clocks of increasing complexity, often enlivened with all manner of automata and musical mechanisms at the age of 17. It was in his first workshop that Pierre Jaquet Droz began to specialize in the production and exportation of timekeepers endowed with Grand Complications such a singing bird, or mechanism striking hour…The workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds excelled in all fields of mechanical ingenuity.

London in 1774: This was Pierre Jaquet Droz second watchmaking workshop and was based in London, This workshop was headed by Henry-Louis (Pierre’s Son). Henry provided a striking demonstration of his strategic audacity and his far-reaching vision. London was the commercial decision making heart of Europe and the key business center. Henry-Louis was the first to recognise the potential of London as a trade base to China (that’s forward thinking). As with all ventures Henry-Louis was overworked and hence, delegated a part of his responsibilities to Jean-Frédéric Leschot, the adoptive son of Pierre Jaquet Droz. Jean Frederic was in particular responsible for dealing with Cox & Son, who went on to represent Jaquet Droz in China, India and Japan for many years.

Genevain 1784: Henry-Louis decided to move to Geneva a town whose artistic and literary life he appreciated and he was soon joined by Jean-Frédéric Leschot, together they set up Geneva’s first real horological workshop, a year before Vacheron Constantin appeared on the scene. This manufacture was set up to specialise in limited production and export luxury pieces, musical boxes, automatons and Grand Complications. The talent and interest which Henry-Louis Jaquet Droz and Jean-Frédéric Leschot demonstrated for the general welfare of the town were soon recognized and rewarded. They were both made honorary citizens and interest was shown in their business activities. Jaquet Droz was welcomed by the Geneva Society of Arts, which had just been re-formed and he played a highly active role in improving vocational training. In addition, he helped to set up a workshop-school in Geneva which produced under-dial work for repeaters. And Therefore Jaquet Droz watchmaker was born……

Pierre Jaquet Droz achieved many technological developments, these are some:

The suspended-barrel bridge caliber, invented by the French watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine in 1770. In the Manufacture’s accounting registers, watches produced with this caliber were designated by the expression “à la Lépine”.

The keyless watch device, where watches were rewound by repeatedly use of the pendant (pump winding). This technique was used on many watches in the 18th century, either to wind the main spring, for a “sonnerie au passage”, or a chime.

Automatically wound watches with an oscillating mass. Pierre Jaquet Droz contributed to raising awareness of this technical marvel first in England, then in the Far East.

Decoration of high luxury watches. The enamel on the case of Jaquet Droz models is embellished by gold foil and silver “sous fondant”. This enameling technique, called “paillonné”, was adopted by numerous Geneva enamellers.

 Jaquet Droz Corporate Movie 2012

That was the History, now to the recent Past and the resurrection of Montres Jaquet Droz SA

After a few years’ absence from the world of watchmaking, and a period marked by ownership of foreign shareholders, the brand was acquired in 2000 by the Swatch Group. The Swatch Group returned Jaquet Droz to its town of origin, La Chaux-de-Fonds, and moved in the summer of 2010 in to its new “Atelier de Haute Horlogerie”.

A short ten years from the resurgence of Jaquet Droz by The Swatch Group the success of Jaquet Droz is undeniable. The Manufacture is well positioned within the prestige and luxury segment of the Group. Marc A. Hayek, President, with a steering committee, has set himself the mission of cultivating this spirit of excellence and innovation while continuing to communicate emotional and poetical values. The link between the Age of Enlightenment (Pierre Jaquet Droz’s Era) and the third Millennium is therefore still at the heart of the brand’s creative inspiration and is seen in Jaquet Droz’s 8 Codes.

Code 1 - Grande Seconde

On a single dial, the hours and minutes counter, off-centered at 12 o’clock, embraces the seconds counter, situated at 6 o’clock, with echoes of Avant- Garde poetry, aesthetics at the very core of the identity of Jaquet Droz. From the 18th century to the third millennium, the Grande Seconde has been the eternal source of inspiration for the Manufacture of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a timeless icon in extremely exclusive interpretations which evolve with time and with each new collection.

Outlined with pearls or precious stones and clad in Grand Feu enameling or rare minerals, the Grande Seconde represents both prodigious history and the present moment and leaves the promises of the future to the imagination with the majestic elegance of its lines.

Code 2 – The 8 Symbol

Formed by two sub dials on the watch face, this symbol suggests the rarity of limited editions and exclusive models produced in small numbers. Representing infinity and eternity, the number 8 is one of the Manufacture’s most distinctive and magical numerological references. Jaquet Droz sub dials play with Arabic and Roman numerals, treat each passing moment as unique, in other words, they offer a new perception of Time.

Code 3 - Grand Feu Enameling

Grand Feu enameling is one of the expert techniques that constitute the signature of a Jaquet Droz watch. Combining traditional production methods with latest-generation technology, the dial-makers at Jaquet Droz have kept up with the latest developments in timepieces and the technical constraints that they involve. The Jaquet droz dial-makers are the sole guardians of the formula that yields these magnificent dials, whose color and graining are absolutely unique. Jaquet Droz has a long history of Grand Feu enameling and still practices the art today. Firing is carried out at a temperature exceeding 1,000°C, although lower temperatures are used for decoration and decals. New research has enabled Jaquet Droz, famous for its ivory-colored dials, to meet a major challenge by adding black and blue to its color repertoire. The number of coats needed to produce these shades, remarkable for their great depth, is variable, the color blue requiring the most.

You can see the attention to detail placed on Grand Feu Enameling with Jaquet Droz as the master dial-maker may create five or more dials and deem only one worth keeping.  The slightest imperfection is fatal as soon as a grain or crack is detected, the dial is rejected. The enamel will retain its beauty and gloss for centuries, withstanding the ravages of time indefinitely.

This is a distinctive signature of Jaquet Droz timepieces since the 18th century, it has been reinterpreted by the brand in its contemporary collections.

Code 4 – The Watch Case

At Jaquet Droz they see a watch case as a treasure chest full of mechanical wonders to track time. The case was carefully conceived to contain remarkable movements. The Manufacture believes that each watch case is absolutely essential, whether it has a screw-type back or comes in one piece. Each one undergoes no fewer than 80 different operations. That’s why Jaquet Droz prizes the hands of its master craftsmen above any manufacturing tool.

Code 5 – The Movement

Jaquet Droz has always incorporated cutting edge watchmaking technology into its timekeeping creations. All Jaquet Droz mechanical self winding and manually wound movements are engraved with a clover, the secret signature of the founder of the Manufacture. The bridges and plates are adorned with Côtes de Genève ribbing, while the luxurious sunray motif on the oscillating body is visible through the transparent case back.

Code 6 – Complications

Once again attempting to surpass it previous innovations, Jaquet Droz takes the inventiveness of its luxury watches to new heights with sophisticated complications, such as tourbillon, minute repeater, equation of time, perpetual calendar, jumping hour or chronograph.

Code 7 - Numerus Clausus

Jaquet Droz creates unique timepieces and its Numerus Clausus editions are limited to 8, 28 or 88 pieces. 

Code 8 - The Minerals

Jaquet Droz has fashioned inimitable watch dials from noble materials, treasures drawn from the depths of the Earth and from outer space. These dials offer the poetry of meteorites crossing galaxies, the geometry of rutilated inclusions in quartz, the mystery of onyx, aventurine, spectrolite, pietersite… Minerals are like the memory of the Earth and our galaxy. Whether they come from deep within the earth or the far reaches of space, they transform each watch dial into a fabulous journey through the infinity of time.

As you can all see the number 8 plays a big part in the Jaquet Droz dynasty, could this be why it was so popular in the far east or how it managed to develop and attain some of its history from its extensive dealing in the Far East…. its will come as no surprise as the Number 8 is associated with Luck and Good feelings in the Far East.

The watch masters in the Jaquet Droz family were pioneers in the art of luxury decoration as far back as the 18th century and in turn generated work for an entire generation of craftsmen. The success and fame of the Jaquet droz family increased after the introduction of paillons and painted motifs to decorate the enameled surfaces of watch cases and other masterpieces, pocket watches, decorative urns, snuffboxes and cages for mechanical singing birds. These techniques were finally adopted, but much later, by the enamellers of the time.

The special skills used by Jaquet Droz in the 18th century are still applied to a very few truly exceptional pieces in the Jaquet Droz collection. In wishing to honor the art of painting on enamel in the 21st century and uphold the traditions of its founder this painstaking decorative technique is applied to a few remarkable pieces in its collection. The painter does everything by hand, with the aid of a microscope and it takes at least 40 hours to produce each unique piece.

Another central point of Jaquet Droz watches is the art of enameling, which involves covering ornamental paillons (tiny motifs or paillettes, cut from gold or silver leaf) with fondant (translucent enamel) as described in Code 3. This technique is central to Jaquet Droz’s traditional expertise and during the 18th century Pierre transformed the technique into an art form.

As discussed in Code 1 – The Grande Seconde is the Timeless Icon of Jaquet Droz Watches

The dials are designed in such a way as to give excellent legibility, giving them their distinguished appearance. This iconic model first appeared in 1785, where Jaquet Droz created the Grande Seconde, and gave shape to a new way of perceiving space. It is the course of the seconds hand that provides us with the best visualization of the passing of Time, established many centuries ago.

With the “Grande Seconde” dial and its figure 8 inspired design, scientific precision is no longer the reserve of academics, merchants, priests and kings. Now any admirer of fine objects can share the privilege of precision and refinement.

Nearly two centuries after its creation, the philosophical values, aesthetic identity and scientific rigor of this iconic model remain, and prove the perpetuity of Jaquet Droz designs. Since its first launch, the product has appeared in a variety of different versions, these being Grande Seconde Enamel, Grande Seconde Minute Repeater and Grande Seconde Lady. These models illustrate the extraordinary level of skill of the dial makers and the infinite possibilities for personalization.

The aesthetics of the model has not aged in the slightest. Resolutely fashionable in the treatment of the typography of the numerals Roman or traditional for the hours and minutes, modern and immediately accessible for the seconds – the watch incarnates simultaneously an impressive history and the present moment.

The relative proportions of the two counters continue a line of geometrical progression inspired by the golden number – the figure 8 – a symbol at the very heart of Jaquet Droz’ identity.

The Grande Seconde finds a natural echo in the Grande Seconde SW, exemplary in its new approach to design. Entering the sports watch field for the first time, Jaquet Droz confirms its mastery of the aesthetic and technical concerns of the 21st century: massive, light, ultra-resistant and perfectly profiled, the Grande Seconde SW takes technical optimization and Swiss watchmaking tradition to greater heights.

At a time when all watchmaking Manufactures compete in technology and multiply the complications on the market, Jaquet Droz continue in their commitment to the essential, favoring art and longevity. Much more than a simple movement, a watch is an Emotion, a passion that goes straight to the heart. Jaquet Droz continues to produce timepieces for connoisseurs in search of perfection, remaining loyal both to the watch and to an emotive and aesthetic approach to Time.

The Jaquet Droz Collections

Jaquet Droz was a man of great vision and as we all know from this article his prowess travelled well beyond the borders of Switzerland he established manufacture in London, gained access to China. Opened the first established workshop in Geneva along with his first in his home town. Jaquet Droz, who owned three watch factories was an extensive traveller, but he loved Paris. All these places and cities still inspire today’s Jaquet Droz Collections as can be seen below;

Legend – Geneva

As a bridge between the Age of Enlightenment and the third millennium, the  collection evokes the union between Haute Horlogerie and poetry, contemporary aesthetics and timelessness. Directly inspired by a pocket watch created in the 18th century, this collection echoes the luxurious and refined pieces designed by Pierre Jaquet Droz in his third watchmaking Manufacture. In choosingGeneva, he became a pioneer: his workshop was the very first to be established in this city.

Urban London 

Entering the sports watch field, Jaquet Droz confirms its mastery of the aesthetic and technical concerns of the 21st century, based on the Manufacture’s values over the last three centuries: boldness, a sense of adventure and the love of a challenge. The city of London is a perfect interpretation of these values and pushed Jaquet Droz to offer his craftsmanship to the world, especially to Asia.

Inspired by the 8 and the infinity, the Grande Seconde SW line and the SW Chrono and the Grande Seconde Ceramic compete with the finest examples in watchmaking.

Majestic Beijing

During the 18th century, in the heart of Beijing, the emperor and the imperial court’s dignitaries collected Pierre Jaquet Droz’s masterpieces. Like these timepieces which crossed the world, the elegant creativity and the functionality conveyed by the  collection’s models seems to know no bounds: the Grande Heure, The Twelve Cities, The Eclipse…. so many possibilities for different modes of existence, lifestyles and desires.

Complication La Chaux De  Fonds

As the creator of watches, clocks and automatons that were universally recognized for their elegance and finesse, Pierre Jaquet Droz succeeded in making people forget about the phenomenal complexity of the mechanisms and movements required to actually run his masterpieces. It was in his first workshop that Pierre Jaquet Droz began to specialize in the production and export of timekeepers endowed with Grand Complications such as a piece of music, a songbird, or a mechanism striking en passant or automatically… The workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds excelled in all fields of mechanical ingenuity.

Elegance Paris

A cultural and intellectual bastion central to 18th century history, Parishas always held pride of place for our Manufacture. During the Enlightenment, its founder Jaquet Droz frequently visited Paris, where he presented his models to Marie-Antoinette, queen of France. Designated the capital of femininity, art and fashion, the city has been famous ever since for its jewellery watches, set with precious stones or pearls. Mysterious and enchanting, the  collection represents yet another milestone in our unrelenting quest to push back the limits of Beauty.

The whole Jaquet Droz Story can be seen in this 128 page, well illustrated book, which can be viewed online free at http://book.jaquetdroz.ch/Jaquet-Droz/181-JD-Catalogue-2012-2013-ENG.html#/0

Video: Audemars Piguet the Making of….

We found this little treasure online and thought that discerning watch enthusiast, watch reviews and bloggers would be interested.

Its an 8 minute video on the process of making an Audemars Piguet Watch, Interesting watching for all we think from the novice watch enthusiast to the more adapt timepiece aficionados out there.

We hope you enjoy it as much as we did….

Here it is Audemars Piguet The Making of…..

You may also like to see some other related videos and reviews on The Watch Review Site, some related articles are the video interview with Audemars Piguet Art Director Octavio Garcia about The Royal Oak Anniversary or the  The Story Behind the L’odyssee de Cartier a behind the scenes look at the phenomenon of L’odyssee de Cartier video and interview with Cartier Heritage Director.

Video: The Royal Oak Anniversary, Park Armory and Audemars Piguet Art Director Octavio Garcia

Patek Philippe Sticks the Landing with the Ref. 5204

Written By: Meehna Goldsmith

Further to The Watch Review Sites recent article on the Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication  Meehna has a bit more of a horologistic view on matters. Lets see what Meehna’s thoughts are on the Patek Philippe 5204 Men Grand Complication below;

It’s extremely hard to climb Mount Everest. Most wouldn’t even think of walking up to that challenge. It takes a lot of perseverance and grit to top the highest mountain in the world. Only a few can claim the feat. Doing it once might be luck. Doing it twice shows some skill. But continuously reaching the summit demonstrates mastery and expertise. That’s exactly what Patek Philippe continues to do in its high complications.

At Patek Philippe, topping themselves isn’t just a goal, it’s a mantra. And so they’ve proved again with the release of the Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication, a split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar. The title sounds relatively simple compared to what this thing does. Let’s break it down. The Ref. 5204 tells time, obviously. For everyday use, this will be the function you’ll go to most, providing you don’t make it a safe queen.

In addition to telling time, the Patek Philippe 5204 Men Grand Complication  is a perpetual calendar. Not one you’ve got to reset several times a year (a regular calendar), or even once a year, twice if it’s a leap year (annual calendar) but never. That’s right, never! You don’t ever have to wonder where you are in the leap year cycle. If you keep it wound up. The Ref. 5204 will keep track of the Gregorian calendar long after you’ve kicked the bucket.

Now we come to the chronograph. A de rigeur complication for the sportsman, the chronograph breaks time into intervals. For example, in Los Angeles, you can time your meter so you don’t get a ticket or use it for barbecuing so you don’t make Uncle Bernie’s steak well-done when he likes it medium rare—or even time how long your Aunt Gladys keeps yapping at you before you can get away.

So you’ve got your perpetual calendar and chronograph, but that wasn’t enough for Patek Philippe. No, they wanted to top that chronograph summit with a split seconds. With a split seconds, you can measure intervals within intervals. There are two chronograph hands, one under the other. Once you make the split and note the time, the second hand catches up to the first (called a rattrapante) so you can mark another interval when you want to.

Patek Philippe reworked the splits function to include two innovations to optimize the alignment of the split-seconds hand and thus increase accuracy. They did this through an isolator for the splits-seconds lever, and a congruent alignment mechanism for the split- seconds hand and the chronograph hand, which qualified for a patent application.

When are you going to use a split seconds if you’re not a horse trainer or high-school coach? Probably never. Still, it’s a rad complication and fun to play with.

Such complicated watches tend to have fussy dials, making the functions more of an art than a practice. But Patek Philippe nailed a crisp layout with in-line apertures for the day of the week and month below 12 o’clock, while a moonphase and date dial balance out the picture at 6 o’clock. The upside moonphase adds a provocative design element. Sub seconds and jumping 30-minute chrono counter reside just below the horizontal centerline at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively. A quick look between 4 and 5 o’clock reveals the leap-year cycle and a day/night indicator looks out between 7 and 8 o’clock.

While Patek Philippe previously used the outsourced Lemania for its chronographs, in 2009 they introduced the in-house produced manually wound, column-wheel-controlled CH 29-535 PS. Of course you could still expect the meticulous finishing Patek Philippe is known for, the finishing that makes grown men practically break down in tears. Gentleman that they are, Patek Philippe made the chronograph Ref. 7071 for ladies first and made the men wait. Chivalry is not dead at Patek Philippe.

The Patek Philippe 5204 Men Grand Complication steps it up a level (are you surprised?) and uses the in-house chrono caliber, culminating the brand’s expertise in producing a stunning triple-complication watch that demonstrates the utmost in technical virtuosity. It’s like doing a triple back flip with a half twist and sticking the landing.

I can’t wait to see it in other metals and perhaps with a rich Havana Brown dial, in a rose gold case and chocolate brown strap. Now that would be sweet.

Read a great explanation of the watch and technical innovations by Ron DeCorte here.

You may also be interested in Other Articles at The Watch review Site relating to Patek Philippe such as /patek-phillipe-platinum-men-grand-complications/ or /patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/1_mens_watches/the-patek-philippe-sticks-the-landing-with-the-ref-5204.html

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

Written By: D Constant for The Watch Review Site

We look at the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar and we can clearly see that the growing love affair of women with mechanical watches and complicated functions is one of the great current trends in the world of horology. That must be the reason Patek Philippe saw fit to launch the 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar before any of its new Men’s novelties in 2012.

Could their decision also be based on the response to the Ladies First Chronograph launched by Patek Philippe in Autumn 2009, along with further ladies complications launched 2 years later in 2011, being an ultrathin split-seconds chronograph and a minute repeater. Now in 2012 with the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar, they hope to fasscinate every woman with a penchant for the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry and with the perpetual calendar, a grand complication that qualifies as an incarnation of eternity with its functionality, lasting value, reliability across generations, timelessly elegant design, and enduring array of diamonds. The workshops’ design team and the complications ateliers spared no effort to endow this complicated timepiece with an irresistibly feminine personality.

The Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual is beautiful and everlasting

This was Patek Philippe’s objective and it has been accomplished with panache and style. All of the elements of this elegant timepiece reflect feminine poise, from the classic round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold and the gracefully curved lugs to the shimmering creamy white dial, the interchangeable mink gray and royal purple alligator straps, the lovely bezel, and the clasp set with precious diamonds that deserve to be called a girl’s best friend.

The dimensions of the case are suited to a feminine wrist with its compact diameter of 35.10 mm and a height of 8.8 mm. Still even though it is neatly designed in a compact package the ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual still has eight indications, these being hours, minutes, date, day of the week, month, leap-year cycle, 24-hour subdial, and moon phases. All of these are well organised on the dial and are clear and easily read. This is achieved by the contrasting components to the White Opalescent Dial

The Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar has no less than 68 Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct. on the dial. The Ladies Perpetual Calendar comes with a solid-gold case back and an exchangeable sapphire-crystal display back that allows you to admire the magnificently intricately designed and artistically decorated mechanical caliber 240 Q. This is A Patek Philippe legendary caliber, which is assembled in the manufacture’s ateliers for it’s complicated watches.

Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. This feat was made possible by recessing the off-center 22K gold minirotor in the plate, combined with an ingenious arrangement of the mechanisms for the perpetual calendar and the moonphase display. A key feature is the 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar’s mechanical memory of 4 years, which allows the perpetual calendar to always indicate the correct date, automatically taking into consideration the months with 31, 30, or 28 days, and the 29th of February in leap years. This means that as long as the 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar is worn regularly  and not let to run down the Ladies Perpetual calendar will take until 2100 before the calendar has to be manually adjusted and at that point it will only be by one day. So we have a watch if worn regularly that will most likely outlast you and see you to the grave (for want of a better term) or just think this is definately one for the family collection.

This timepiece has been designed for eternity and is has a hand-stitched alligator strap with a prong buckle in 18K rose gold which has a further 27 Top Wesselton diamonds totaling about 0.20 ct.

The Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar definately adds to, and enhances Patek Philippe’s collection of ladies’ watches and we look forward to the next installment in Patek philippes portfolio of complicated watches for women.

Technical details – Patek Philippe Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

Complicated ladies’ wristwatch with perpetual calendar in 18K rose gold

Movement: Caliber 240 Q, Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement.

Perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-year cycle. Moon phases.

Diameter: 27.50 mm

Height: 3.88 mm

Number of parts: 275, Number of jewels: 27

Power reserve: 48 hours

Winding rotor: Recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding

Balance: Gyromax®

Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)

Balance spring: Spiromax®

Functions: Two-position crown – Pushed in: To wind the watch – Pulled out: To set the time

Displays: Center hour and minute hands

Subsidiary dials: – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock – Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock – Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors: At 9 o’clock: Day of week correction, Between 11 and 12 o’clock: date correction, Between 12 and 1 o’clock: month correction,

At 6 o’clock: moon-phase correction

Features

Case: Round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold (4N),

cambered sapphire crystal glass,

bezel with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct.

Snap back in 18K rose gold and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back.

Water-resistant to 30 meters

Case dimensions: Diameter 35.10 mm, Height: 8.8 mm (overall), Height: 8.7 mm (back to glass), Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial: White opalescent, Six applied Breguet numerals in 18K rose gold, Thin leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold

Subsidiary dials: – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand, – Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand, – Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand

Diamonds Bezel set with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (totaling approx. 0.68 ct.)

Clasp set with 27 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (totaling approx. 0.20 ct.)

Strap: Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny mink gray, prong buckle in 18K rose gold, diamond-studded.

Additional handstitched alligator strap with square scales in royal purple.

You may also like to see some other Patek Philippe Watch reviews

/patek-phillipe-platinum-men-grand-complications/or

/patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/

The Swiss Confederation has chosen Hublot as its watch partner for the World Expo 2012.

Hublot is incredibly proud to have been selected by Presence Switzerland in the Swiss Federal Department of Foreign Affairs (FDFA) to be the watch partner of the Swiss Pavilion at the World Expo 2012 which will take place over 3 months, between 12th May and 12th August 2012, in the South Korean coastal city of Yeosu.

Already selected as partners of the “Sommet de la Francophonie” French language summit in Montreux 2010, the FDFA and Hublot are continuing their collaboration, this time to help promote Switzerland on an international scale.

“It is an immense privilege to work with the Confederation to promote Switzerland to the entire world. It is the greatest of honours and I would like to recognise and pay tribute to the teams who are working in Bern every day to spread the values of our country. their work is incredible and highly worthwhile, and I promise that Hublot will once again live up to their ambitions.” stated Jean-Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot.

The theme of the YEOSU World Expo 2012 is “The living ocean and coast”. Around eight million visitors are expected. The Swiss Pavilion, which was created by the team Steiner Tamschick Nüssli and which will be managed by Presence Switzerland, should offer visitors an emotive and interactive experience. It will highlight the Swiss glaciers as the guardians of the primordial water, but will also bear witness to Switzerland’s responsibility and competencies when it comes to protecting and re-establishing the purity of the water.

In this context, Hublot’s “Oceanographic 4000″ dive watch – symbol of Switzerland’s innovative and high tech watchmaking expertise, and sponsored by the prestigious Monaco Oceanographic Museum – will be on display in the Swiss Pavilion.

Through its association with the Swiss Pavilion at the YEOSU World Expo 2012, Hublot is not only incredible proud to play a role in the promotion of Switzerland across the world, but is also delighted to reaffirm its profound attachment to the values of sustainable development and environmental responsibility and respect.

About Presence Switzerland

Part of the Swiss Federal Department of Foreign Affairs (FDFA), Presence Switzerland aims to protect Swiss interests abroad using international communication tools. These tools include informational and promotional resources, carrying out Swiss-themed projects abroad, organising visits to Switzerland for foreign delegations, maintaining a uniform image of “Brand Switzerland” as well as managing Switzerland’s participation in world exhibitions and the presence of House of Switzerland at the Olympic Games. The international communication strategy is regularly updated by the Federal Council based on the analysis of Switzerland’s image abroad. Under the slogan “The source. It’s in your hands”, the Swiss Pavilion at the World Expo 2012 at Yeosu in South Korea, will offer visitors an emotive and interactive experience. Switzerland’s official presence in South Korea is complemented by a very rich and diverse framework programme as well as an intense communications campaign in the lead up to the exhibition. This presence will enable Swiss international communication to strengthen Switzerland’s image in Asia in a sustainable way and to promote Switzerland’s competitiveness abroad in an attractive and efficient manner. www.swisspavilion.org - www.eda.admin.ch - www.swissworld.org

 About Hublot

“Hublot? A different way to progress”. So say those in the know about this unique Swiss watch company, where each and every moment moves forward to create the future at breathtaking speed. A dream, a meteoric rise initiated and developed by Jean-Claude Biver, Hublot’s Chairman, along with Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO, who are responsible for turning this brand into a genuine success story in which the Big Bang, King Power, Classic Fusion and Masterpieces represent the symbols of a constantly developing tradition. From watch complications and revolutionary materials to world class collaborations such as FIFA World Cup™, Ferrari, Formula 1™, Hublot represents the “Art of Fusion” philosophy, bringing tradition into the future “to continue to wow the world of watchmaking!”. Finally, on a commercial level, the network of approved retailers has grown rapidly and currently stands at 700 points of sale and more than 40 exclusive boutiques (Geneva, Cannes, Saint-Tropez, Paris Place Vendôme, Berlin, Moscow, New York, Miami, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, Singapore, Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Kuala Lumpur …). For more information, visit: www.hublot.com