Time and Watches

Omega unveils Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph for 007 First Light

2026-05-22T13:01:23.952+02:00

Unveiled ahead of the worldwide launch of 007 First Light on May 27, 2026, the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light brings James Bond back into the brand’s contemporary watch collection through a model developed in collaboration with IO Interactive and Amazon MGM Studios.

Created for the new third-person action-adventure game 007 First Light, the watch accompanies a 26-year-old James Bond in an original storyline exploring the early stages of his career.

Within the game, the chronograph serves as one of Bond’s operational tools, equipped with fictional hacking and laser functions used during missions.

The model also marks the first chronograph integrated into the Seamaster Diver 300M line associated with the 007 franchise.

Translating the in-game watch into a production model, Omega has chosen a 44 mm stainless steel case measuring 17.20 mm thick with a lug-to-lug distance of 52.80 mm.

Water resistance is rated to 30 bar (300 metres / 1,000 feet), consistent with the professional diving specifications of the Seamaster Diver 300M collection.

The watch introduces several elements specific to this edition, most notably the polished black ceramic chronograph pushers, paired with a black ceramic bezel insert featuring a white enamel diving scale.

The black ceramic dial retains the laser-engraved wave motif characteristic of the modern Diver 300M line while incorporating details linked to the game’s visual identity.

At 3 o’clock, the chronograph register is framed in PVD bronze gold, a finish also used for the central chronograph seconds hand.

The remaining hands and indexes are rhodium-plated and filled with white Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in low-light conditions. Additional details include a red “Seamaster” inscription and a date aperture positioned at 6 o’clock.

Powering the watch is the self-winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 9900, operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

Certified as a Master Chronometer, the movement combines chronometric precision with high resistance to magnetic fields and can be viewed through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

On the underside of the sapphire, Omega has added a black-metallised “007 First Light” logo integrated within the wave-edged construction of the caseback.

The watch is fitted to a new NATO strap developed specifically for this edition. Combining black, grey and beige tones, the design recalls the colour palette of the Seamaster worn in No Time to Die while adopting a different stripe arrangement inspired by the game’s visual identity.

The strap is completed by a dedicated Seamaster buckle and engraved keepers bearing both the 007 and First Light markings. Omega also notes that six additional NATO straps inspired by versions appearing in the game will be available separately within the brand’s accessories collection.

Delivered in a presentation box inspired by the suitcase used to transport watches within the game, the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light ref. 210.32.44.51.01.002 is priced at €9,300 / US$9,400. omegawatches.com

A. Lange & Söhne honours Best of Show winner at the 2026 Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

2026-05-22T10:05:05.288+02:00

For the past 15 years, A. Lange & Söhne has partnered with the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, supporting one of the world’s most prestigious and exclusive events dedicated to historic automobiles.

Held annually in the gardens of the historic Grand Hotel Villa d’Este on the shores of Lake Como, this year’s edition took place from 15 to 17 May 2026 and brought together around 50 exceptional classic cars competing across eight categories before an international jury and an enthusiastic audience of collectors and enthusiasts.

The event concluded with the presentation of the “Trofeo BMW Group – Best of Show”, awarded this year to a 1937 BMW 328 “Bügelfalte” owned by Stefano Martinoli.

During the closing gala dinner, Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid presented the winner with a unique version of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 CHRONOGRAPH created specifically for the occasion.

Crafted in white gold and distinguished by a solid pink-gold dial, the one-of-a-kind chronograph also features a hinged cuvette engraved by hand with the coat of arms of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este as well as the founding year 1929 and the current event year.

Inside the watch beats a manually wound movement composed of 306 components, assembled and hand-finished in Glashütte according to the manufacture’s traditional standards.

Commenting on the anniversary partnership, Wilhelm Schmid underlined the shared values linking the German manufacture and the concours, notably the appreciation for technical craftsmanship and the commitment of those who preserve mechanical and automotive masterpieces across generations.

Helmut Käs, Head of BMW Group Classic and President of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, also emphasised the continuity of a collaboration that has accompanied the event since 2012.

Alongside the prize-giving ceremony, A. Lange & Söhne also presented a selection of recent timepieces during the concours weekend, including the debut of the new A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold. Limited to 50 pieces, the rectangular model combines a case and dial crafted from Lange’s proprietary Honeygold alloy with a black-rhodiumed relief dial manufactured entirely in-house.

Powered by the manually wound calibre L042.1, the watch incorporates Lange’s patented stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon and offers a power reserve of up to 120 hours.

Introduced during the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, the model represented one of the principal horological highlights presented by the Saxon manufacture during this year’s edition. alange-soehne.com

Rolex marks 100 years of the Oyster with new Oyster Perpetual references

2026-05-21T12:28:36.810+02:00

Following our overview of Rolex’s 2026 novelties at Watches and Wonders Geneva, we now take a closer look at the central theme of this year’s releases: the centenary of the Oyster.

First introduced in 1926 as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, the Oyster is celebrated through a new expansion of the Oyster Perpetual collection, where Rolex introduces new materials, dial designs and commemorative details to its most essential line.

The most historically referential of the new releases is the Oyster Perpetual 41 ref. 134303, presented in yellow Rolesor, combining Oystersteel and yellow gold.

Rather than using the traditional two-tone formula with gold centre links, Rolex opts for an Oystersteel bracelet throughout, reserving yellow gold for the domed bezel and winding crown.

Several details underline the centenary theme: the crown bears the number “100” in relief, while the slate sunray dial replaces the customary “Swiss Made” signature at 6 o’clock with the inscription “100 years”.

Green accents, a colour long associated with the brand, appear in the printed Rolex logo and in the square markers used at each five-minute interval on the minute track.

The 41 mm Oyster case remains water-resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet and measures 11.60 mm thick.

Inside works calibre 3230, Rolex’s automatic movement with Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring and approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

Operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement is regulated to Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer standard of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.

Like all new 2026 Oyster Perpetual models, it also benefits from the strengthened Superlative Chronometer certification, now expanded to include additional criteria relating to magnetic resistance, reliability and sustainability.

The new Oyster Perpetual 41 ref. 134303 is priced at €9,500 / US$9,650.

The second steel model, the Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000, takes a more expressive route. Crafted entirely in Oystersteel, it introduces a multicoloured lacquered dial featuring a newly reworked Jubilee motif.

Historically seen on Rolex dials from the late 1970s, the pattern is here reinterpreted through repeated “Rolex” lettering rendered in ten contrasting colours.

According to the brand, the process requires successive colour applications rather than a single operation, demanding particularly precise alignment of the various shapes and letters.

Its 36 mm Oyster case shares the same waterproof construction, domed bezel and robust Oyster bracelet with Easylink extension system.

Power also comes from calibre 3230, delivering the same 70-hour autonomy and chronometer-rated precision. The Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000 is priced at €6,600 / US$6,750.

Rolex also broadens the precious-metal side of the collection with two smaller references in full gold.

The Oyster Perpetual 28 ref. 276208 in 18 ct yellow gold features a new green stone lacquer dial accented by heliotrope natural-stone hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

The Oyster Perpetual 34 ref. 124205 in 18 ct Everose gold adopts a blue stone lacquer dial with dumortierite markers in the same positions. Both watches introduce, for the first time on full-gold Oyster Perpetual models, predominantly satin-finished cases and bracelets contrasted by polished domed bezels.

The Oyster Perpetual 28 measures 28 mm while the Oyster Perpetual 34 retains its familiar 34 mm diameter.

Both are powered by calibre 2232, a self-winding movement operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and equipped with Rolex’s Syloxi silicon hairspring.

The movement delivers approximately 55 hours of power reserve and benefits from the same Superlative Chronometer certification applied across the collection.

The Oyster Perpetual 28 ref. 276208 is priced at €29,700 / US$30,000, while the Oyster Perpetual 34 ref. 124205 is priced at €37,600 / US$38,100. rolex.com

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Armin Strom introduces the Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine limited edition

2026-05-20T17:00:24.180+02:00

Armin Strom continues to explore the possibilities of its resonance technology with a new interpretation of the Dual Time GMT Resonance distinguished by an aventurine dial inspired by the appearance of a star-filled night sky.

Limited to 15 pieces, the new Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine combines the architectural symmetry of the manufacture’s resonance movement with the shimmering depth of aventurine, creating a markedly different visual character from previous editions.

Warm rose gold-coloured movement elements creates a striking contrast with the cool luminosity of the dial.

The two independent time displays are positioned symmetrically on the dial side, each featuring its own hours, minutes and day/night indicator.

Black azurage chapter rings provide additional contrast against the aventurine base, while polished rose gold-coloured applied indexes and faceted hands improve legibility. The polished and blackened steel day/night discs add visual depth.

Powering the watch is the manually wound manufacture calibre ARF22, entirely developed and produced in-house by Armin Strom.

Measuring 34.15 mm in diameter and 4.92 mm thick, the movement is composed of 231 components and 40 jewels, operating at a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 42 hours.

The defining feature of the calibre remains the patented resonance clutch developed by Armin Strom.

This system mechanically connects two independent regulating organs, allowing the balance wheels to synchronise their oscillations through the physical phenomenon of resonance.

Beyond its technical interest, the system is intended to improve chronometric stability by enabling the two oscillators to continuously influence and stabilise one another.

Readers interested in a closer look at the functioning of the resonance system can also refer to our review of the Dual Time GMT Resonance Black Edition published last year.

Visible through sapphire crystals on both the front and back, the movement retains the open-worked architecture characteristic of the collection.

The rose gold-coloured mainplate establishes a warm visual foundation beneath the dial-side displays, while matching bridges on the reverse side create continuity throughout the calibre.

Finishing combines hand-executed and traditional decorative techniques, including hand-polished bevels, black-polished elements, circular graining, perlage and Côtes de Genève on the reverse side.

The mirror-polished balance bridge, with its hand-bevelled edges, remains one of the visual focal points of the movement, contrasting with the darker rhodium-coated and steel components surrounding it.

As with all Armin Strom watches, the movement is assembled twice, first for technical adjustment and subsequently for final finishing and assembly.

The Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter, 44.5 mm lug-to-lug and 9.05 mm thick.

Both the sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback feature anti-reflective treatment, while water resistance is rated to 5 ATM (50 metres / 165 feet).

Paired with a matte grey alligator leather strap with grey stitching secured by a stainless steel pin buckle, the new Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine ref. ST26-DT.CT is issued in a limited edition of 15 pieces and priced at CHF 105,000. arminstrom.com

Blancpain enriches the Ladybird Colors collection with snow-set Diamond Bloom editions

2026-05-20T11:23:16.079+02:00

Blancpain expands the Ladybird Colors collection with two highly jewelled interpretations that place gem-setting at the centre of the design while maintaining the mechanical identity that has long distinguished the line.

The new Ladybird Colors Diamond Bloom references 3662A-9696-99A in red gold and 3662-9496-99A in white gold combine elaborate snow-setting techniques with Blancpain’s moon-phase complication, integrating 919 diamonds totalling 4.794 carats across the case, dial, lugs and buckle.

Rather than treating gem-setting as a decorative addition, Blancpain approaches these new models as fully integrated jewellery watches in which the entire surface is conceived as a continuous field of light.

The 34.9 mm case, available in either 18-carat red gold or white gold, adopts softly rounded forms that reinforce this effect, while the crown itself is set with a rose-cut diamond.

Measuring 10.43 mm thick and water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet), the case retains proportions intended to balance elegance with everyday wearability.

A key role is played by the snow-setting technique used throughout the watch.

This demanding artisanal process involves positioning diamonds of varying sizes in apparently irregular arrangements while minimising any visible metal between the stones.

The result creates a more organic and vibrant play of light compared to traditional symmetrical gem-setting patterns.

At the centre of the composition is a nacre perlée mother-of-pearl dial whose naturally textured surface reveals changing reflections in green and pink tones, a characteristic element of the Ladybird Colors collection.

Blancpain explains that this rare form of mother-of-pearl represents less than 2% of usable material extracted from each shell, with only one or two suitable dials obtainable from each specimen.

The dial itself incorporates 222 snow-set diamonds while preserving legibility through painted Roman numerals executed in glacier blue on the white-gold model and royal purple on the red-gold version.

To avoid interrupting the gem-setting, the Blancpain logo is transferred directly onto the underside of the sapphire crystal, creating the impression that it floats above the dial.

The familiar openworked sage leaf-shaped hands indicate the hours and minutes, while a small seconds display appears at 6 o’clock alongside Blancpain’s characteristic moon-phase indication.

As on previous Ladybird models, the moon displays a feminine face with closed eyes, pronounced eyelashes and a discreet beauty mark.

Powering both references is the automatic Blancpain manufacture calibre 1163L, visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

Measuring 26.2 mm in diameter and 4.58 mm thick, the movement is composed of 243 components and 30 jewels, operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

It delivers a power reserve of approximately 100 hours and is decorated with Geneva stripes in line with Blancpain’s traditional finishing standards.

Each version is delivered with two interchangeable alligator leather straps. The white-gold reference 3662-9496-99A is paired with Glacier Blue and Midnight Blue straps, while the red-gold reference 3662A-9696-99A includes White and Royal Purple options.

The new Blancpain Ladybird Colors Diamond Bloom references 3662-9496-99A and 3662A-9696-99A are produced in very limited quantities and priced at CHF 107,000. blancpain.com

Atelier Wen introduces the Perception V3 with Pequignet movement

2026-05-19T07:35:17.709+02:00

Four years after the launch of the Perception collection, Atelier Wen introduces the Perception V3, the most technically advanced evolution of the series to date.

While preserving the hand-guilloché dials that established the identity of the collection, the new generation introduces a major technical development through the adoption of a French-made movement supplied by Pequignet.

The result further reinforces Atelier Wen’s Sino-French approach, combining Chinese decorative craftsmanship with European mechanical engineering.

At the heart of the Perception V3 is the Pequignet EPM03, an automatic calibre developed and manufactured in-house by the French manufacture based in Morteau, near the Swiss border.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement offers a 65-hour power reserve and is regulated to chronometer-grade standards, with a stated daily accuracy of -4/+6 seconds and an average deviation within ±2 seconds per day.

For the first time in the Perception collection, the movement incorporates a hacking-seconds function.

The winding system uses a bi-directional pawl-based architecture with a patented tooth profile designed to improve efficiency while reducing long-term wear.

The Perception V3 is offered in three versions. Piāo reprises the familiar ice-blue dial combined with brushed and polished surfaces and rhodium-plated feuille hands.

Xiá adopts a salmon-toned dial whose appearance shifts between copper and softer pink hues depending on the light.

The third version, Yún, marks the first entirely new Perception reference since the collection’s launch in 2022.

Its bamboo-green dial is paired with a micro-frosted finish applied across the case and bracelet, replacing the directional brushing used on the other variants and creating a softer contrast with the polished bevels.

Regardless of the version, the dial remains the defining element of the Perception collection. Each dial is produced by the workshop of Cheng Yucai in Xinmi, Henan province, considered China’s first master of hand-operated guilloché.

Using rose engines designed and built by Cheng himself, the dials are engraved with Atelier Wen’s signature écailles de poisson motif, whose radiating geometry creates constantly shifting reflections under changing light conditions.

The process remains entirely manual and requires several hours of uninterrupted work for each dial.

Construction details continue to reference traditional Chinese craftsmanship. The applied hour markers are assembled according to the principle of sǔn mǎo, an ancient joinery technique relying on friction rather than adhesives.

Surrounding the dial is a raised chapter ring decorated with a segmented huí wén motif filled with Super-LumiNova and serving simultaneously as the minute track.

The calibre also introduces a decoration programme developed specifically for Atelier Wen.

The bridges feature shapes inspired by traditional Chinese representations of wind and are partially filled with mirror-polished blue aventurine lacquer intended to evoke the appearance of a night sky.

Additional finishing includes Côtes de Genève on the escapement bridge, perlage, machine-executed anglage, black-polished screws, a snailed barrel and a rotor combining frosting and snailing.

A full sapphire crystal caseback now replaces the smaller opening used on previous generations, allowing a more complete view of the movement.

Crafted from 904L stainless steel, the case measures 40 mm in diameter, 47 mm lug-to-lug and 10.4 mm thick.

The profile continues to draw inspiration from traditional Chinese roof architecture, particularly in the curvature of the flanks and the angular geometry of the lugs.

Water resistance is rated to 100 metres / 330 feet, while the dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating.

The integrated bracelet follows the same architectural language through faceted centre links inspired by traditional Chinese window patterns.

Tapering from 22 mm at the case to 18 mm at the clasp, it incorporates a concealed micro-adjustment system together with a telescopic deployant mechanism designed to reduce thickness when closed.

A quick-release system also allows the bracelet to be removed without tools.

The new Atelier Wen Perception V3 is priced at US$4,850 and is not limited. Deliveries are expected to begin in late July 2026. atelierwen.com

New Longines Legend Diver 59 revisits the 1959 original

2026-05-18T12:06:02.068+02:00

Longines expands its Legend Diver line for 2026 with a new model that remains closely aligned with the spirit of the original 1959 watch.

The new Legend Diver 59 ref. L3.795.4.59.9 retains the collection’s distinctive design while introducing updated materials, finishing, and technical features.

The 1959 Longines Diver ref. 7042 featured a Super-Compressor case with an internal bidirectional rotating bezel and water resistance to 12 bar (120mt/400ft)

The watch is housed in a 42 mm x 12.85 mm stainless steel case and continues to feature the internal rotating bezel operated via the crown at 2 o’clock, a solution that has characterised the model since its origins.

The black grained dial maintains a strong focus on legibility, with white indexes and raised Arabic numerals enhanced by a light Old Radium Super-LumiNova treatment.

The overall layout remains restrained and functional, complemented by satinated arrow hands and a luminescent seconds-hand tip used to confirm operation in low-light conditions.

Protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal with a black metallic coating and multi-layer anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The screw-in crowns and robust case construction contribute to water resistance rated to 30 bar (300 metres / 1,000 feet), in accordance with ISO 6425 standards for diving watches.

At the heart of the watch is the Longines calibre L888.6, an automatic movement equipped with a silicon balance spring and anti-magnetic components designed to resist magnetic fields significantly beyond the ISO 764 standard.

The angled screw-down case back is adorned with a diver, the symbol of the collection.

Certified as a chronometer by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), the movement beats at 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour) and offers a 72-hour power reserve.

The Legend Diver 59 is presented on a stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet fitted with a micro-adjustable double-folding safety clasp.

A black rubber Tropic-style strap is also included as an alternative for sportier use.

The new Longines Legend Diver 59 ref. L3.795.4.59.9 is priced at €4,050 / US$4,100. longines.com

Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Ref. 5322G with 24-hour alarm on a classic gong

2026-05-17T07:15:32.659+02:00

With the new Calatrava Alarm reference 5322G, Patek Philippe brings the alarm function back to the forefront of its grand complications in a more contemporary and streamlined form.

Presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the new model focuses on a 24-hour alarm mechanism striking on a classic gong, housed in a white-gold Calatrava case distinguished by Clous de Paris guilloché on the caseband and paired with textured lacquered dials in either blue or green.

While the technical foundations originate from the calibre developed for the Pilot Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 introduced in 2019, the new reference 5322G removes the dual-time display and centres attention on the alarm function itself.

The result is a cleaner and more balanced layout, combined with a more versatile aesthetic that aligns with the recent evolution of the Calatrava collection.

The dial adopts the textured, black-gradient style first seen on references 5226 and 5326.

Its granular lacquered surface transitions from blue or green at the centre to black around the outer edge, while white-gold applied numerals and syringe-shaped hands filled with luminescent material reinforce legibility.

The central seconds hand and date hand are executed in white-painted steel, with the latter indicating the date on a recessed subdial at 6 o’clock.

The upper section of the dial is dedicated entirely to the alarm indications. A double aperture at 12 o’clock displays the programmed alarm time, with the hours shown on the left and the minutes on the right in 15-minute increments.

Just below, a small circular aperture indicates whether the programmed time falls during the day or night.

A bell-shaped aperture above the display changes colour depending on the status of the alarm: white when activated and black when deactivated.

The 41 mm white-gold case features openworked lugs and a continuous Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché decoration extending around the entire caseband.

To preserve the uninterrupted pattern, the lugs are attached directly to the caseback rather than integrated into the middle case.

Despite incorporating a chiming mechanism, the watch is water-resistant to 30 metres (100 feet), making it the only water-resistant chiming watch currently in the Patek Philippe collection.

Operation has been designed to remain intuitive despite the complexity of the mechanism. The crown, unusually positioned at 4 o’clock, performs three different functions depending on its position.

When pushed in, rotating it clockwise winds the alarm barrel, while turning it anticlockwise winds the movement.

Pulled out halfway, it allows the alarm time to be adjusted forwards or backwards in 15-minute increments. Fully extended, it is used to set the time, with the balance stopping for precise synchronisation.

A single pusher at 2 o’clock activates, deactivates or interrupts the alarm, while a discreet corrector between 6 and 7 o’clock adjusts the date.

Visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback, the new self-winding calibre AL 30-660 S C is composed of 524 parts yet maintains a relatively slim profile at 6.6 mm thick.

Its architecture is derived from the calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS used in the Pilot Alarm Travel Time, but simplified here by removing the Travel Time mechanism.

The movement beats at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and uses a 21K gold central rotor for automatic winding.

The Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar contribute to chronometric stability, resistance to magnetic fields and long-term precision.

Particular attention has been paid to the striking mechanism itself. Unlike many alarm watches, where a hammer strikes directly against the caseback to produce a buzzing sound, the calibre AL 30-660 S C uses a traditional gong coiled around the movement, similar in principle to a minute repeater.

The hammer strikes this gong at a steady rhythm controlled by an inertial governor, producing approximately 90 strikes at a cadence of around 2.5 strikes per second.

The system has also been designed to avoid accidental misuse. The alarm cannot be activated unless the striking barrel is fully wound, a process requiring around ten clockwise turns of the crown.

Once the power stored for the striking mechanism is exhausted, the watch automatically switches to OFF mode.

Reference 5322G is available in two versions: the ref. 5322G-001 with a navy-blue dial paired with a navy-blue composite strap featuring a fabric texture, and the ref. 5322G-010 with a green dial combined with a green patinated alligator strap.

Both versions are additionally supplied with a beige nubuck calfskin strap and fitted with Patek Philippe’s patented triple-blade fold-over clasp designed for easy strap interchangeability.

The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm references 5322G-001 and 5322G-010 are priced at €267,297. A three-minute video presenting the main features and mechanisms of the new model is available below. patek.com

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold debuts at Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

2026-05-16T10:50:13.738+02:00

Unveiled today on the occasion of the 2026 edition of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, held on the shores of Lake Como, the new A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold marks the return of one of the manufacture’s most distinctive mechanical creations.

The new reference 703.050 revisits the rectangular Cabaret Tourbillon first introduced in 2008, combining Lange’s patented stop-seconds tourbillon with a case and dial crafted from 750 Honeygold.

The launch also reinforces the long-standing relationship between A. Lange & Söhne and the prestigious concours event, a setting particularly suited to the Cabaret collection’s balance of technical refinement and design identity.

With its warm-toned Honeygold surfaces contrasted by a black-rhodiumed dial, the new edition introduces a distinct character while preserving the architecture and mechanical philosophy of the original model.

The warm tone of Lange’s proprietary Honeygold alloy contrasts sharply with the dark dial surface, highlighting the elaborate relief work executed directly in the gold.

Manufactured entirely in-house, the dial is composed of three elements: the main dial and two subsidiary counters for the small seconds and power-reserve indication.

Rather than being printed, the scales, frames and “A. Lange & Söhne” signature are sculpted directly from the gold surface, rising approximately 0.15 mm above the black-rhodiumed background.

After rhodium treatment, the raised elements are carefully hand-finished to reveal the underlying lustre of the Honeygold, producing a pronounced three-dimensional effect.

Additional details include applied Roman numerals at III, IX and XII, lozenge-shaped hour markers and the outsize date at 12 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, an aperture reveals the one-minute tourbillon, whose upper bridge and cage top are finished using the demanding black-polish technique.

This artisanal process involves repeatedly polishing the steel components by hand on a tin plate with fine abrasive pastes until the surface alternates between a mirror-like reflection and a deep black tone depending on the angle of light.

The internal angles of the cage are also finished by hand, underscoring the level of craftsmanship associated with the most complex Lange calibres.

The manually wound calibre L042.1 remains faithful to the rectangular architecture of the original Cabaret introduced in 1997. Measuring 22.3 × 32.6 mm, the movement is shaped specifically for the case proportions and is composed of 370 parts, including 84 dedicated to the tourbillon.

Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), it features twin mainspring barrels delivering a power reserve of 120 hours.

Visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback, the movement displays the traditional finishing codes of the Saxon manufacture, including untreated German silver plates with Glashütte ribbing, screwed gold chatons, blued screws and hand-engraved cocks.

The ratchet wheel is decorated with solarisation, while the tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks are individually engraved by hand.

A notable feature of the Cabaret Tourbillon remains its stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon, a patented system introduced in 2008.

Using an arresting spring, it allows the tourbillon cage to be stopped instantly when the crown is pulled, enabling setting to the exact second — a function that was rarely achievable in tourbillon wristwatches at the time.

The Honeygold case measures 29.5 × 39.2 mm with a thickness of 10.3 mm, preserving the elongated proportions characteristic of the Cabaret family.

The Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold ref. 703.050 is issued as a limited edition of 50 pieces and completed by a dark-brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap with a Honeygold pin buckle. The price is available on request. alange-soehne.com

Nomos Glashütte Tangente neomatik 38 Update: a new size and 18 kt gold versions

2026-05-15T13:48:06.936+02:00

Nomos Glashütte expands its Tangente Update line with a new 38.5 mm format and, for the first time, versions crafted in 18 kt gold.

Presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the new Tangente neomatik 38 Update joins — rather than replaces — the larger 41 mm Tangente Update that we reviewed in 2019, offering more compact proportions while preserving the distinctive ring-date display that has become one of the manufacture’s signature complications.

Originally introduced in 2018 and awarded at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the patented Nomos ring-date system displays the entire month around the dial perimeter, with the current date framed by two red markers moving along the outer track.

Unlike conventional date windows, the indication remains fully integrated into the dial design while providing immediate readability.

This complication is driven by the in-house automatic calibre DUW 6101, developed specifically around the ring-date architecture.

To maintain the movement’s slim profile, the date mechanism is positioned around the calibre’s outer edge, an arrangement that has now been adapted to fit the smaller 38.5 mm case.

Despite the reduced dimensions, the watch remains only 7.4 mm thick and retains the clean proportions characteristic of the Tangente line.

The calibre DUW 6101 features automatic winding, bidirectional quick date correction and a power reserve of up to 50 hours.

Visible through the sapphire caseback versions, the movement also incorporates the Nomos swing system with its proprietary blue balance spring, one of the elements underpinning the brand’s increasingly independent movement production in Glashütte.

The stainless steel models are presented in two dial executions, each available with either a sapphire crystal caseback or a solid steel back (denoted by the .SB suffix). References 147 and 147.SB feature the signature silver-plated dial with a white date disk and oxidized black hands.

In contrast, references 148 and 148.SB introduce a forest green dial, marking the first permanent addition of this color to the Tangente core collection.

According to Nomos, this green tone was developed to provide a contemporary character while respecting the Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic of the original design.

Pricing reflects the choice of caseback construction: references 147 and 148, fitted with sapphire crystal backs, are priced at €3,680 and €3,760 respectively. The solid-back versions, references 147.SB and 148.SB, are positioned at €3,380 and €3,460.

The most significant addition to the collection is the introduction of Tangente gold neomatik 38 Update, marking the first time the Update complication appears in an 18 kt gold case.

Just like the steel editions, the gold models maintain the same 38.5 mm x 7.4 mm dimensions. This continuity ensures the watch remains remarkably slim on the wrist, while the warm tone of the 18 kt gold lends a more formal, elevated character to the minimalist design.

Reference 195 pairs the silver-plated dial with tempered blue steel hands and a black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, while reference 196 adopts a more monochromatic approach with gold-coloured hands and a brown Shell Cordovan strap.

Both gold models feature sapphire casebacks, water resistance to 3 ATM and are priced at €12,400.

Across all versions, the characteristic Tangente architecture remains unchanged, with its straight case profile, angular lugs and narrow bezel continuing to define one of Nomos Glashütte’s most recognisable designs. nomos-glashuette.com

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

Panerai unveils Submersible GMT PAM01495 in DMLS titanium with skeletonised calibre

2026-05-14T13:38:38.561+02:00

Panerai has unveiled a new addition to its Submersible collection with the Submersible GMT PAM01495.

Drawing on a long history of producing precision instruments for the Italian Navy, Panerai continues to develop watches in which functionality remains central to the design.

The new Submersible GMT PAM01495 reflects this approach, combining professional diving specifications with a 47 mm titanium case and the fully skeletonised calibre P.4001/S.

Water-resistant to 50 bar (approximately 500 metres), the case is manufactured using Titanium DMLS (Direct Metal Laser Sintering), a technology Panerai has previously employed for models such as the Luminor Marina DMLS PAM01662 or the Submersible S Brabus PAM01241.

Panerai was among the first watch brands to explore 3D-printed titanium, filing a patent in this field as early as 2012. Produced layer by layer from Grade 5 titanium powder, this construction allows the creation of internal cavities that reduce weight while maintaining structural strength.

According to Panerai, Titanium DMLS is approximately 25% lighter than conventional titanium constructions of the same design and more than 50% lighter than steel, while also offering strong resistance to corrosion, an important advantage in marine environments.

The sandblasted case is paired with a unidirectional titanium bezel fitted with a matte blue ceramic insert, while the signature crown-protecting bridge reinforces the recognisable Submersible identity.

Panerai’s use of titanium dates back to 1985 with the Mille Metri prototype, a 47 mm diving watch developed in titanium.

The material entered regular production in 1998 and has since remained central to the brand’s exploration of lightweight and high-performance case construction.

Powering the PAM01495 is the automatic calibre P.4001/S, a skeletonised movement introduced in 2021. Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it comprises 341 components and incorporates two patented solutions.

Among them is a polarised date display designed specifically for an open-worked movement.

Unlike conventional opaque date discs that obscure the mechanics beneath, this system keeps the date ring largely invisible, revealing the numeral only through the aperture at 3 o’clock.

The skeletonised architecture remains fully visible, while indexes mounted directly on the rehaut preserve clear legibility. Applied indexes and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova.

For diving readability, the minute hand and bezel marker emit a blue glow, while the remaining indications shine green.

The movement also features a 12-hour GMT indication with AM/PM display, allowing immediate reading of a second time zone via the orange-tipped GMT hand. A patented mechanism enables the local hour hand to jump forward or backward in one-hour increments, making time adjustments practical while travelling.

Precision is further supported by a seconds-reset function inspired by Panerai’s military heritage.

When the crown is pulled, the seconds hand returns to zero, allowing accurate synchronisation with a reference signal.

The watch offers a power reserve of three days, supplied by twin barrels. Energy is generated through an off-centred micro-rotor positioned to preserve visibility of the movement while helping reduce overall calibre thickness.

Remaining autonomy can be monitored through a circular sapphire indicator on the caseback, keeping the dial free for essential timekeeping information.

A grid motif integrated into the movement architecture references the heavy maritime nets historically used to secure vessels in harbour, adding a subtle nod to Panerai’s naval heritage.

The 50 bar water-resistance rating is verified through Panerai’s testing protocol developed by its Laboratorio di Idee. Each case component is inspected before assembly, while representative production batches undergo laboratory tests simulating years of wear and demanding conditions.

Once assembled, every watch undergoes a multi-stage water-resistance process beginning with a vacuum test before pressure testing. The completed watch is then immersed in a pressurised water chamber simulating the rated depth plus an additional 25% safety margin.

To verify perfect sealing, the case is subsequently heated and cold water is applied to the sapphire crystal, making any internal condensation immediately visible. Excluding ageing simulations, this protocol is carried out on every individual timepiece.

The Submersible GMT PAM01495 is fitted with a blue rubber strap and delivered in a blue cherry wood presentation box that also includes a second black bi-material strap.

The new Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495 will be available exclusively through Panerai boutiques at the price of €49,000. panerai.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 2026: New Tribute Duoface and Classic small models

2026-05-13T15:13:12.702+02:00

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues the evolution of one of watchmaking’s most enduring icons with a series of newly proportioned Reverso models for 2026, led by the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds ref. Q3908410, a refined reinterpretation of the dual-time classic with dimensions closer to the historical spirit of the collection.

Created in 1931 and instantly recognisable for its swivelling case and Art Deco lines, the Reverso has continually adapted to changing tastes while preserving its unmistakable identity (see its history here).

With current interest returning to more restrained proportions and classical elegance, Jaeger-LeCoultre has revisited several references through more compact executions designed to offer improved comfort and balance on the wrist.

At the centre of this new chapter is the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds, now presented in a new “medium” format measuring 42.9 mm x 25.5 mm and 9.23 mm thick.

These revised proportions bring it closer to the original Duoface models introduced in 1994, while maintaining the presence and practicality expected of a contemporary travel watch.

Crafted in stainless steel, the case retains the signature reversible construction that allows two distinct dials to coexist within a single watch.

On the front, a silvered opaline dial presents the time with Dauphine-style hands, small seconds at 6 o’clock, trapezoidal applied indexes and a railroad minute track.

Turning the case over reveals the second face, dedicated to travel functionality. Here, a blue-grey dial introduces a new colour to the Duoface line, enhanced by sunray satin-brushing that interacts elegantly with the polished steel surfaces of the case.

This reverse side displays a second time zone together with a 24-hour indication, allowing intuitive distinction between day and night hours.

The second time zone is easily set by means of a trigger on the side of the steel case.

Powering the watch is the manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854, developed specifically for the Duoface concept.

The movement drives both displays while maintaining a slim profile suited to the Reverso case architecture. It offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

The Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds ref. Q3908410 is delivered with a black calfskin strap designed by Casa Fagliano and equipped with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quick-change system, allowing effortless strap changes without tools. Price: €14,800 / US$14,100.

The new launches also include several smaller models for women.

The Reverso Classic Small Monoface (35.78 mm x 21 mm x 7.4 mm) is presented in two versions: one in steel with an alligator strap or steel bracelet, and one in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with an alligator strap.

For the Reverso Classic Small Duetto (34.2 mm x 21 mm x 8.7 mm), Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces three variations. Two models are crafted in steel, including one set with diamonds on the verso, available with an alligator strap or steel bracelet.

A third variation features diamonds on both the recto and verso, paired with a blue alligator strap or steel bracelet, and is delivered with an additional alligator strap for added versatility.

Finally, an updated Reverso Classic Monoface ‘Origin’ features gadroons set with diamonds on the recto and is presented in steel with an interchangeable blue alligator strap or a steel bracelet.

Unlike the other ladies' references, which are powered by the hand-wound Calibre 844, this model is equipped with the Quartz Calibre 657. jaeger-lecoultre.com

Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop unveiled in eight colourful pocket watches

2026-05-13T08:46:53.023+02:00

Following a week of growing online buzz, the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop collection has now been officially unveiled as an eight-piece series of transformable pocket watches in Bioceramic, combining AP’s Royal Oak design language with Swatch’s Pop universe from the 1980s.

For Swatch, it is another high-profile collaboration following the impact of the 2022 Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch launch, while for Audemars Piguet it offers an unexpected reinterpretation of the design language established by the Royal Oak in 1972 (discover the history of this iconic timepiece here).

Rather than translating the concept into a conventional wristwatch, the project reinterprets it as a modular object designed to be worn, carried or displayed. Each piece can be used as a pocket watch, pendant, clipped accessory or desk timepiece, underlining its focus on versatility rather than fixed form.

The collection is built around two distinct pocket-watch architectures.

The Lépine-style models are characterised by the crown positioned at 3 o’clock and by the addition of a small seconds display.

This layout gives the dial a more technical appearance while recalling traditional open-face pocket watches. In the Royal Pop collection, these versions introduce an extra layer of animation through the running seconds indication, complementing the central hours and minutes display.

Lan Ba

Otg Roz

The Savonnette-style models adopt a different architecture, with the crown moved to 12 o’clock and no small seconds indication.

Historically associated with hunter-case pocket watches, this configuration creates a more symmetrical dial composition and a cleaner visual balance. Within the Royal Pop collection, it emphasises the geometric Royal Oak-inspired elements and the bold colour treatment of each reference.

Otto Rosso

Huit blanc

Green Eight

Blau Acht

Ocho Negro

Orenji Hachi

Across both executions, the 40 mm Bioceramic case retains familiar Royal Oak codes, including the octagonal bezel secured by exposed screws and a dial surface evoking the Petite Tapisserie motif.

Sapphire crystal is used on the front, while a transparent caseback reveals the movement architecture. Super-LumiNova is applied to the hands and markers to maintain legibility in low-light conditions.

Colour plays a central role in differentiating the eight references, with each model presented in a distinct Pop-inspired palette that extends to both case and detailing. The combinations emphasise contrast between the industrial character of the Royal Oak design elements and the more expressive Swatch aesthetic.

Powering the collection is a newly developed hand-wound evolution of the SISTEM51 calibre, marking the first manual-winding execution of this architecture.

The movement incorporates a Nivachron balance spring for improved resistance to magnetic fields and delivers a power reserve of approximately 90 hours.

Water resistance is rated to 2 bar, consistent with the collection’s non-traditional, object-like approach to watch design rather than tool-watch positioning.

The Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop pocket watches are not limited editions and will be available from 16 May in selected Swatch stores worldwide. Pricing is set at CHF 350 / €385 / US$400 for the two-hand versions and CHF 375 / €400 / US$420 for the small seconds executions. swatch.com

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Essential Taupe continues the online-exclusive monochrome series

2026-05-12T11:15:00.001+02:00

Hublot continues its online-exclusive Essential series with the new Spirit of Big Bang Essential Taupe, the fifth chapter in a monochrome concept built around a simple formula: one colour, one design, once a year.

This latest edition applies the taupe theme to the Spirit of Big Bang collection for the first time, following previous Essential Grey and Essential Taupe releases in other lines.

As with earlier editions, production is limited to 200 pieces for each model and availability is restricted to Hublot’s online channels.

Presented in two sizes, 32 mm and 42 mm, the new releases interpret the tonneau-shaped Spirit of Big Bang case in coordinated tone-on-tone taupe finishes across dial and straps.

The neutral colour palette gives the watches a more understated character while preserving the bold architecture associated with the collection.

The larger 42 mm version, reference 642.NX.4610.NR.HEC26, is crafted in satin-finished and polished titanium.

Measuring 14.1 mm in thickness and water resistant to 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet), it combines lightness with the structural complexity of the multi-part Spirit of Big Bang case.

Its dial introduces a new carbon-stamped taupe execution featuring alternating satin-finished and polished squares arranged in a checkerboard-style pattern.

The layered treatment creates additional depth and complements the openworked nature of the chronograph movement beneath.

Powering the watch is the HUB4700 automatic skeleton chronograph calibre, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) and offering a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.

Composed of 278 parts and 31 jewels, the movement is visible through the sapphire caseback.

The 42 mm model is delivered with two interchangeable straps: a taupe fabric strap with Velcro fastening and an additional lined taupe rubber strap.

The titanium clasp system includes a deployant buckle and microblasted sport buckle.

The smaller 32 mm version, reference 682.SX.4610.NR.HEC26, is executed in satin-finished and polished stainless steel.

Measuring 10.8 mm thick and also water resistant to 100 metres, it marks the first time a 32 mm Spirit of Big Bang is presented without diamond setting, reinforcing the more restrained identity of the Essential concept.

Its sunray taupe dial offers a simpler and more compact interpretation of the collection’s design language. Inside is the HUB1120 self-winding movement, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and delivering approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

This version is supplied with two taupe straps: a rubber and Nytech fabric combination, plus an additional lined rubber strap, secured by a stainless steel deployant buckle.

With these two new editions, Hublot continues to build a recognisable annual series centred on colour and limited availability, while extending the Essential Taupe theme to one of its most distinctive case designs.

The Spirit of Big Bang Essential Taupe 32 mm is priced at CHF 12,400 / €14,600 / US$14,900, while the 42 mm chronograph is priced at CHF 20,600 / €24,300 / US$24,800. hublot.com

Oris Artelier Complication returns for 2026 with moon phase and second time zone

2026-05-11T13:10:00.002+02:00

With the new Artelier Complication, Oris enriches its catalogue with a contemporary interpretation of an elegant yet versatile timepiece that combines traditional mechanical functions with cleaner, more modern styling.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the model marks the return of the Artelier, historically the most classically styled collection in the Oris catalogue.

Reinterpreted with more streamlined proportions and a younger aesthetic, it preserves the collection’s longstanding emphasis on elegant complications.

Central to the watch is a moon-phase display, a feature that continues to bring a poetic dimension to mechanical watchmaking.

The stainless steel case measures 39.5 mm in diameter, 11.8 mm in thickness and 45.5 mm lug-to-lug, dimensions chosen to ensure contemporary presence while maintaining its understated elegance.

Its multi-piece construction is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective treatment, while the screw-down exhibition caseback incorporates a mineral glass window revealing the movement.

Water resistance is rated to 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet).

The dial is available in three colours: ivory, midnight blue and chestnut.

Each version is structured in three distinct zones, with a textured central area, a smooth gently curved outer ring and recessed counters for the complications.

On the chestnut model, the subdials are presented in a darker contrasting tone to reinforce legibility.

At 12 o’clock, the moon-phase display shows a silvered moon against a starry background matched to the curved aperture cover, whose shape allows the waxing and waning cycle to be read while reducing the visual weight traditionally associated with this type of display.

At 6 o’clock, the second time zone is shown on a 24-hour scale, offering practical utility alongside the more decorative lunar indication.

Further details underline the collection’s modern direction. Applied hour markers are tapered and stepped, while the hour and minute hands adopt a square-tipped profile and are filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in low light.

A new sans serif typography for the “Artelier” and “Swiss Made” signatures completes the refreshed identity.

Powering the watch is the automatic Oris Calibre 782, a new evolution derived from the earlier Calibre 781.

The 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) movement incorporates a stop-seconds function for precise setting and delivers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.

One of the practical benefits of this revised architecture is easier operation.

The complications can be adjusted through the crown and a single corrector discreetly integrated into the case flank between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The new Artelier Complication is offered either on a dark brown leather strap with butterfly clasp or on a multi-piece stainless steel bracelet, also secured by a butterfly clasp.

The new Oris Artelier Complication is priced at CHF 2,300 / €2,300 / US$2,950 on leather strap and CHF 2,500 / €2,500 / US$3,150 on steel bracelet. oris.ch

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

Baltic x SpaceOne Seconde Majeure introduces jumping-hour display by Théo Auffret

2026-05-10T12:22:00.002+02:00

Baltic and SpaceOne have joined forces to create the Seconde Majeure, a timepiece focusing on an original jumping-hour display developed by independent watchmaker Théo Auffret.

Rather than combining familiar elements from the two brands, this first collaboration introduces a distinct design language built around an unconventional way of reading time.

Housed in a 38.5 mm case, the Seconde Majeure displays the jumping hours at 12 o’clock and the trailing minutes at 6 o’clock, both indicated by rotating sapphire discs.

A large central seconds hand sweeps above the dial, adding motion to a composition defined by symmetry and visible mechanical elements.

The jumping-hour mechanism is integrated into the dial side and partially exposed.

Beneath the minute disc, a control wheel completes one rotation every 60 minutes before engaging a star wheel connected to the hour disc.

A visible jumper spring stores and releases energy, allowing the hour display to change instantaneously at the top of the hour.

The dial, cut from a single piece of maillechort (German silver), also serves as a structural component supporting the complication module.

Two finishes are available: a brushed version and a hand-finished Charbonné execution, the latter produced directly in Théo Auffret’s atelier.

For this collaboration, the brands have utilized 904L stainless steel, a high-alloy material that offers superior corrosion resistance and a higher, more brilliant polish compared to the industry-standard 316L.

The case measures 47.5 mm lug-to-lug and 12.3 mm thick.

Brushed surfaces are contrasted by a polished concave bezel, while curved lugs improve comfort on the wrist.

Power comes from the automatic Soprod P024 calibre operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a 42-hour power reserve, fitted here with the exclusive jumping-hour module.

The watch is paired with a beige Alcantara strap by Delugs. Water resistance is rated to 50 metres.

The Seconde Majeure will be available for pre-order from 12 to 17 May 2026, with production limited to the number of orders placed during that period.

Prices before taxes are set at €2,500 for the Brushed version and €3,500 for the Charbonné model. baltic-watches.com

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 Ref. IW344904 now in Grade 5 titanium

2026-05-09T08:02:00.000+02:00

IWC gives the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 a lightweight Grade 5 titanium execution with the new ref. IW344904, introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026.

Combining a 41.6 mm x 13.2 mm case with an integrated titanium bracelet, the model brings together two signatures of the modern IWC catalogue: the Gérald Genta-inspired Ingenieur design language reintroduced in 2023, and the perpetual calendar system developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s.

At the same time, it becomes the brand’s lightest perpetual calendar wristwatch to date.

The use of Grade 5 titanium gives the watch a markedly different character from steel or precious-metal alternatives.

Around 45 percent lighter than steel while offering high strength and excellent corrosion resistance, the material contributes significantly to comfort on the wrist.

It also introduces a discreet technical aesthetic through its natural grey tone.

IWC has matched this material with an elaborate range of surface treatments. The case, bezel, crown guards and bracelet links are predominantly sandblasted, with polished bevels highlighting the geometry of the design, while satin-finishing along the flanks adds further contrast.

The familiar round bezel is secured by five functional screws, preserving one of the key visual codes of the Ingenieur.

Those familiar with last year’s Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in stainless steel with blue dial will recognise the same proportions and calendar architecture, now reinterpreted in a more monochromatic and lighter form.

The matte grey dial has been designed to integrate visually with the titanium case and bracelet, creating an almost monobloc appearance.

It features the characteristic “Grid” motif formed by fine lines and squares, adding depth without disturbing legibility.

Three subdials display the perpetual calendar indications: the date at 3 o’clock, the month with integrated moon phase at 6 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock.

A small leap-year indication is incorporated into the left-hand register. Circular satin-finishing and azurage details distinguish the counters from the main dial surface, while applied markers and hands filled with Super-LumiNova ensure visibility in reduced light.

The perpetual calendar remains one of IWC’s most practical complications. Developed by former chief watchmaker Kurt Klaus, the mechanism is synchronised through the crown and automatically compensates for the varying lengths of months, including leap years.

The moon-phase display is also highly precise, requiring correction by one day only after 577.5 years.

Powering the watch is the IWC-manufactured calibre 82600, an automatic movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

The movement employs IWC’s Pellaton winding system, which converts rotor motion in both directions into winding energy.

Components subject to higher wear, including the automatic wheel and clicks, are made from zirconium oxide ceramic for enhanced durability.

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the calibre is decorated with Geneva stripes, circular graining and blued screws.

Water resistance is rated to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

Combining reduced weight, refined finishing and one of the brand’s most enduring complications, the new IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 ref. IW344904 is is priced at €44,500 (including VAT) / US$44,000 (excluding sales taxes). iwc.com

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon adds ornamental stone to its 2 mm ultra-thin design

2026-05-08T12:39:00.001+02:00

Piaget continues its long-standing exploration of ultra-thin watchmaking with the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon ref. G0A51540, now enriched by the addition of ornamental stone decoration within its record-setting 2 mm profile.

First unveiled in 2024 with a blue interpretation that demonstrated the Maison’s ability to unite extreme thinness with contemporary design (read our previous coverage here), the concept now evolves into a warmer and more expressive execution combining technical complexity with decorative craftsmanship.

At the heart of the watch is the Piaget manufacture calibre 970P-UC, an ultra-thin hand-wound movement integrated directly into the case architecture.

As with the earlier calibre 900P, introduced in 2013, there is no traditional separation between movement and case: the caseback itself serves as the movement’s mainplate, a solution that saves vital space while preserving rigidity.

This construction remains fundamental to achieving the extraordinary overall thickness of just 2 mm.

The 41.5 mm case is crafted from deep brown treated cobalt alloy, a material selected for its favourable ratio of strength to thinness. Its rigidity is particularly important in a watch where every component must operate within microscopic tolerances.

The hours and minutes are displayed on the familiar off-centre dial, while the flying tourbillon is positioned at 10 o’clock.

A seconds scale engraved on the tourbillon ring provides a discreet running indication. Integrating all these functions within such limited vertical space remains one of the most remarkable aspects of the watch’s engineering.

The latest interpretation introduces ornamental stone to the bridges and dial elements, requiring a level of assembly precision beyond conventional finishing.

Stones are mounted on components that form part of the movement itself, meaning cleaning operations must be carried out without damaging the delicate surfaces.

Piaget notes that this process requires the use of a 0.15 mm needle, the finest employed by the manufacture.

Reference G0A51540 combines brown tones with pink gold-coloured accents and honey-hued tiger’s eye stone, creating a rich visual identity that contrasts with the technical austerity often associated with ultra-thin watchmaking.

In keeping with Piaget’s historical affinity for hardstone dials, the Maison also offers bespoke possibilities with a choice of four case colours and four ornamental stones: tiger’s eye, blue sodalite, jade or onyx, alongside additional personalisation options.

Energy is supplied by a skeletonised barrel inspired by the crosshair motif of earlier Altiplano models.

Piaget explains that the construction has been designed to deliver the additional power required by the tourbillon regulator, approximately 25% more than a comparable movement with a fixed regulating organ.

The crown is integrated into the case band and operated via a dedicated stylus tool incorporating gear reduction and torque control, allowing winding and setting without compromising the thinness of the profile.

Despite its extreme construction, the watch offers water resistance to 2 ATM and is fitted to a brown calfskin strap with polished mesh pattern and Kevlar core, secured by a cobalt alloy pin buckle.

Engraved on the back beside the sapphire aperture beneath the tourbillon is Piaget’s long-standing motto: “Always do better than necessary,” a phrase that aptly reflects the philosophy behind this remarkable creation.

The price of the new Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon ref. G0A51540 is provided on request. piaget.com

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum 104344 continues the exceptional ultra-thin saga

2026-05-07T14:25:00.000+02:00

Entirely crafted in platinum, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon ref. 104344 continues the exceptional series of record-breaking ultra-thin watches by Bulgari.

With both case and bracelet executed in the noble metal, the watch asserts an even more exclusive presence.

Distinguished by blue accents and a bracelet combining satin-brushed and polished finishes, the model remains the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon at just 1.85 mm in total thickness. It joins the titanium version that set the tenth world record for thinness in the Octo Finissimo saga and was later recognised at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2025.

Presented at Watches and Wonders 2026, this new interpretation retains the 40 mm proportions of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon while introducing one of watchmaking’s most demanding materials.

Platinum’s density, purity and particular machining requirements make its use in an ultra-thin construction especially complex, requiring dedicated expertise and tooling.

The case architecture integrates the movement directly into the main structure, a principle that has become central to the Ultra concept.

Rather than stacking calibre and case in the conventional manner, Bulgari uses the caseback as the movement’s mainplate, allowing the extraordinary reduction in height while preserving mechanical integrity.

Powering the watch is the hand-wound BVF 900 flying tourbillon calibre, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offering a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

Despite its extreme thinness, the movement remains fully functional and conceived for regular wear.

The skeletonised display receives a distinctive blue treatment for this limited edition, creating a visual contrast against the silvery tone of the platinum surfaces.

Collectors will also note a specially treated mainplate, a steel ratchet wheel, and the bracelet’s alternating satin-brushed and polished finishing, details developed specifically for this series.

Visible on the dial side, the flying tourbillon continues to serve as both regulating organ and focal point, emphasising the technical sophistication of a watch in which every fraction of a millimetre matters.

Limited to 10 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum ref. 104344 underlines Bulgari’s ongoing commitment to combining advanced engineering with precious materials and contemporary design language. Pricing is available on request. bulgari.com

Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732 revive 1960s design

2026-05-06T12:09:00.003+02:00

Panerai expands its historical Luminor line with two hand-wound models that reinterpret the design language of the Maison’s military diving watches from the 1960s.

First showcased at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the new Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732 draw inspiration from vintage references such as the 6152/1 (see our "History of the Panerai Luminor" article for pictures and details), while introducing contemporary construction standards, a 44 mm case size and the manufacture calibre P.6000.

Rather than focusing on aged finishes, these releases concentrate on the defining functional elements that established the Panerai identity: the cushion-shaped case, crown-protecting bridge, sandwich dial architecture, high legibility in low light and robust water resistance.

The two models share the same newly developed 44 mm polished steel case, which translates the proportions of the historical 47 mm references into a more versatile contemporary format.

The structure combines a polished bezel with a brushed crown-protecting bridge, preserving the contrast between surfaces that characterised earlier Panerai tool watches.

Water resistance is rated to 30 bar (300 metres / 1,000 feet).

A domed sapphire crystal recalls the visual profile of the acrylic crystals once used on vintage military models, while the sapphire caseback reveals the movement within.

The first of the two references, PAM01731, adopts a matte grainy tobacco-coloured sandwich dial with beige Super-LumiNova and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.

It is paired with a dark brown calf leather strap with beige stitching and supplied with an additional dark brown rubber strap.

The second model, PAM01732, is the left-handed Destro interpretation, with the crown-protecting bridge repositioned at 9 o’clock so the watch can be worn on the right wrist.

Historically associated with military divers requiring greater freedom of movement, the configuration remains one of Panerai’s most recognisable special executions.

This version features a matte grainy blue sandwich dial with a cleaner two-hand display, and is delivered with a light brown calf leather strap plus a second blue rubber strap.

Powering both watches is the hand-wound Panerai calibre P.6000, a movement measuring 15½ lignes in diameter and 4.5 mm thick.

Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), it uses a traversing balance bridge for improved stability and incorporates an Incabloc anti-shock system. Power reserve is three days (72 hours) from a single barrel.

The movement also features a stop-seconds mechanism for precise setting when the crown is pulled out.

Through the caseback, the calibre displays horizontal brushing on the plates together with blue engravings.

These new references also underline Panerai’s continued emphasis on durability.

The brand states that each watch undergoes individual pressure testing above its rated depth, including an additional safety margin beyond the guaranteed specification.

With these two releases, Panerai continues to explore its archive through historically coherent modern interpretations, following the recently introduced Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 Brunito, but here with a cleaner and more utilitarian approach.

The new Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732 are priced at €8,900 / US$9,200. panerai.com

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

New MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition pays tribute to the brand’s beginnings

2026-05-05T13:34:00.001+02:00

As part of the ongoing celebrations marking its 25th anniversary, MeisterSinger presents the new Unitas 1Z Edition, a limited series that looks back to the brand’s early years while reaffirming the principles that have defined it since the beginning: clear displays, mechanical watchmaking, and a more measured approach to time.

The anniversary programme began earlier this year with the launch of the Panthero Jumping Hour, and now continues with a model that pays tribute to the Edition 1Z, introduced in 2004 as MeisterSinger’s first special edition featuring an enamel dial.

Produced in 222 pieces, that watch also stood out for its use of the Unitas 6497 pocket-watch movement and helped establish a tradition of annual enamel editions within the collection.

The 2004 Edition 1Z

For 2026, the concept returns in a more exclusive form.

The Unitas 1Z Edition is limited to 25 pieces and presented in a newly developed 40 mm stainless steel case, proportioned to showcase the large manually wound calibre within.

Water resistance is rated to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet), while sapphire crystals front and back allow a clear view of both dial and movement.

The white dial is crafted in genuine enamel, using a traditional multi-stage process in which finely ground enamel powder is applied to a copper base and repeatedly fired at around 800°C.

As with all Grand Feu enamel work, even slight variations in temperature or timing can affect the result, making each successful dial the product of considerable skill and experience.

Its design takes inspiration from historical pocket watches. MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand display is retained, with flowing numerals in the brand’s “365” style, slender hour markers and dots marking each five-minute interval.

An inner ring of numerals highlights the passing minutes within each hour, while the elongated hand is crafted in heat-blued steel, adding a subtle contrast against the bright enamel surface.

Turning the watch over reveals one of its main attractions: the ETA/Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement.

Originally conceived for pocket watches, this calibre is now rarely seen in contemporary wristwatches, yet remains appreciated for its generous dimensions, robust construction and clear architecture.

For this edition, the movement is finished with Geneva stripes, blued screws and a swan-neck fine regulator.

MeisterSinger specifies a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), higher than the slower beat traditionally associated with the calibre, helping improve rate stability. Power reserve is approximately 46 hours.

The large movement nearly fills the caseback opening, reinforcing the watch’s mechanical character and historical inspiration.

The watch is paired with an ice-blue bovine leather strap with croco embossing, secured by a double folding clasp.

Produced in just 25 examples, the new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition (ref. ED-Unitas-01E) is priced at €6,990 and is available from Q2 2026. meistersinger.com

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar: clarity and refinement

2026-05-04T13:06:00.001+02:00

An exercise in refined understatement, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne presents one of watchmaking’s most practical complications in a format that prioritises clarity and balance.

Time and date can be read at a glance, while the remaining indications — day of the week, month and moon phase — are arranged across three counters positioned at 3, 9 and 6 o’clock respectively.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026 alongside the impressive Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar is offered in two versions: a pink gold model with grey dial (ref. 331.033 E) and a white gold variant paired with an argenté-coloured dial (ref. 331.026 E).

The classic round Saxonia case measures 36 mm in diameter and 9.8 mm in thickness, dimensions that reinforce the model’s elegant proportions.

The lancet-shaped hands and baton appliques, now distinguished by peripheral ends recalling a pyramid profile, match the colour of the case. A delicate outer minute track completes the display.

The subsidiary dials for the day, month and running seconds are slightly recessed.

Their outer rings feature fine azurage, while the central sections display a deeper execution of the same decoration, enhancing the dial’s sense of depth.

Integrated within the running seconds display, the moon-phase indication shows the moon crossing a star-filled sky. It requires correction by one day only after 122.6 years.

The lunar disc, crafted in 750 gold, receives a deep blue coating and is decorated with 428 stars forming a miniature representation of the Milky Way.

The annual calendar mechanism is programmed to automatically distinguish between 30- and 31-day months.

Adjustment is required only once per year, at the transition from the end of February to the first day of March.

Lange has also focused on ease of use: all calendar indications and the moon phase can be adjusted individually via correctors or advanced together through a pusher at 10 o’clock.

Powering the watch is the new self-winding manufacture calibre L207.1, operating at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and delivering a power reserve of 60 hours.

Equipped with a unidirectional central rotor featuring a 950 platinum centrifugal mass, the movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Traditional finishing details include the hand-engraved balance cock, screwed gold chatons, polished surfaces and other decorative techniques characteristic of Saxon watchmaking.

Worn on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne is priced at approximately €65,000. alange-soehne.com

Baume & Mercier Riviera 73 revives the original 1973 spirit in three new models

2026-05-03T08:45:00.001+02:00

Baume & Mercier expands its Riviera collection with the new Riviera 73 series, a trio of 39 mm quartz models inspired by the aesthetic codes of the first Riviera launched in 1973.

Faithful to the collection’s hallmark dodecagonal case while refined for contemporary tastes, the new references emphasise slim proportions, clean dial design and everyday versatility.

The launch comprises three stainless steel versions. Reference M0A10845 pairs a white opaline dial with the integrated steel bracelet, offering the most classic interpretation of the new series.

Two blue-dial models complete the line-up: reference M0A10844 on steel bracelet and reference M0A10846 on a midnight blue calfskin strap with contrasting light blue stitching.

All three models share a polished and satin-finished stainless steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter and just 7.7 mm thick, giving the Riviera 73 a notably slender profile on the wrist.

The bezel retains the collection’s distinctive twelve-sided form but, in a nod to early Riviera models, appears without visible screws.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while water resistance is rated to 5 ATM (50 metres / 165 feet).

The octagonal crown bears the Phi emblem of the Maison. Around the back, a solid caseback is engraved with “73” framed by vertical lines recalling a yacht deck, with typography inspired by the 1970s.

Baume & Mercier also notes that the caseback can be personalised through engraving.

Each dial features the Riviera’s wave motif together with Roman numerals, riveted indexes and a date aperture at 3 o’clock.

The blue references use rhodium-plated indexes with openworked rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, while the white dial model is distinguished by ruthenium-toned applied markers and matching hands.

Powering the watches is the quartz calibre ETA F06.115, providing hours, minutes and date functions together with an autonomy of approximately five years.

The use of quartz is historically coherent, as the first Riviera models of 1973 were introduced with quartz movements before automatic versions followed.

The bracelet versions are secured by a triple folding clasp with push-piece release, while the leather strap model is fitted with a polished stainless steel pin buckle.

All three references benefit from an interchangeable spring-bar system that allows strap or bracelet changes without tools.

With the Riviera 73, Baume & Mercier revisits one of its defining designs through a slimmer interpretation that places emphasis on proportion and wearability while preserving the Riviera’s instantly recognisable identity.

The new Baume & Mercier Riviera 73 references M0A10844 and M0A10845 on bracelet are priced at €1,950 / US$1,950, while reference M0A10846 on strap is priced at €1,800 / US$1,800. baume-et-mercier.com

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

Zenith unveils Chronomaster Sport Skeleton with openworked El Primero 3600

2026-05-02T08:59:00.000+02:00

Zenith expands its contemporary chronograph offering with the new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton, an openworked interpretation of the Chronomaster Sport that places the El Primero calibre at the centre of attention while introducing a newly developed folding clasp with on-the-fly micro-adjustment.

At launch, Zenith presented four versions, each offering a different interpretation of the model.

Two stainless steel references are available with either a black ceramic bezel (ref. 03.3130.3600 / 01.M3130) or a green ceramic bezel (ref. 03.3131.3600 / 01.M3130), both fitted to a three-link steel bracelet and accompanied by a matching rubber strap.

A third version in 18-carat rose gold pairs a black ceramic bezel with a black rubber strap (ref. 18.3130.3600 / 01.R951).

Completing the range is a limited edition of 10 pieces in rose gold (ref. 22.3130.3600 / 01.M3100), distinguished by a matching gold bracelet and a bezel set with 52 baguette-cut diamonds totalling approximately 5 carats.

All versions share a 41 mm case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, preserving the sporty profile of the Chronomaster Sport while adding greater visual depth through the transparent dial.

Water resistance is rated to 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet).

The dial is formed from sapphire crystal with a smoked black gradient that becomes increasingly transparent toward the centre, revealing the skeletonised movement below.

Zenith retains the familiar overlapping tri-colour counters in grey, anthracite and blue, a direct reference to the original El Primero introduced in 1969.

Applied baton hour markers and faceted hands are rhodium-plated and coated with Super-LumiNova SLN C1 to enhance legibility.

Powering the watch is the automatic El Primero 3600 SK, a skeletonised evolution of Zenith’s latest high-frequency chronograph calibre.

Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), it enables direct measurement of 1/10th of a second through the central chronograph hand, which completes one full rotation in 10 seconds.

The elapsed reading is displayed against the ceramic bezel engraved with a 10-second scale, making the indication immediately intuitive to use.

The movement uses a column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture, both visible through the dial and sapphire caseback. Zenith highlights the column wheel in blue, while a silicon escape wheel and lever contribute to long-term precision and reduced wear.

A stop-seconds mechanism allows accurate setting, while power reserve is rated at approximately 60 hours. Winding is handled by a newly shaped openworked rotor engraved with the Zenith star.

One of the practical novelties of the steel models is the introduction of the patented ZENCLASP folding clasp.

Comprising 41 components, it incorporates a micro-adjustment device that allows tool-free resizing directly on the wrist in 2.5 mm increments, with a total adjustment range of 10 mm.

Zenith states that durability testing simulated more than ten years of use, representing over 600,000 opening and closing cycles.

Prices for the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Skeleton are set at CHF 14,900 / €16,500 / US$16,700 for the stainless steel versions, CHF 27,900 / €31,200 / US$31,500 for the rose gold model, and CHF 99,000 / €111,400 / US$111,000 for the 10-piece gem-set limited edition. zenith-watches.com

Richard Mille RM 55-01 Manual Winding with new ultra-light calibre RMUL4

2026-05-01T12:23:00.000+02:00

Richard Mille has introduced the new RM 55-01 Manual Winding, a timepiece developed around a principle often associated with Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: true refinement comes not from adding more, but from removing everything unnecessary.

The result is a watch whose architecture has been reduced to essential mechanical functions, with each component positioned according to structural or technical purpose.

The model is offered in three case variations — Carbon TPT, Grey Quartz TPT and White Quartz TPT — each measuring 47.33 mm x 37.95 mm with a thickness of 10.75 mm.

These advanced composite materials combine low weight with strong resistance to shocks and scratches, while their layered surfaces give each version a distinct visual identity. The tonneau-shaped case retains the taut lines and curved ergonomics that define the Richard Mille silhouette.

At the centre of the watch is the new hand-wound Calibre RMUL4, an ultra-light movement weighing less than 5 grams.

Operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and delivering a power reserve of approximately 55 hours, it continues Richard Mille’s long-standing emphasis on lightweight engineering and openworked construction.

The choice of manual winding contributes to that objective by eliminating the mass of an automatic rotor, while also allowing an unobstructed view through the movement.

The calibre is built on a Grade 5 titanium baseplate, selected for its rigidity, corrosion resistance and low weight. Its surfaces receive a microblasted treatment with black PVD coating.

The going train is supported by three Grade 5 titanium bridges, finished with brushing and treated with Titalyt, an electrochemical oxidation process that increases surface hardness and resistance to wear while giving the metal a matte appearance.

As with many Richard Mille movements, the regulating organ is designed with stability and shock resistance in mind.

The free-sprung balance uses variable inertia adjustment through four movable weights rather than a traditional index regulator, improving long-term rate consistency. A stop-seconds mechanism is also integrated for precise time setting.

Energy is supplied by a twin-barrel system engineered to provide more consistent torque delivery over the running period.

By distributing energy through two barrels, pressure on internal components is reduced, contributing to smoother power transmission across the 55-hour autonomy.

The movement is secured inside the case by Grade 5 titanium spline screws and framed by satin-finished pillars with polished bezels.

Above it, rhodium-plated hands with microblasted surfaces sweep over a multi-part flange combining titanium, carbon fibre and steel, adding depth and contrast while preserving legibility.

Water resistance is rated at 50 metres / 165 feet.

The new Richard Mille RM 55-01 Manual Winding is priced at CHF 155,000, excluding taxes. richardmille.com

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