Time and Watches

Oris Artelier Complication returns for 2026 with moon phase and second time zone

2026-05-11T13:10:00.002+02:00

With the new Artelier Complication, Oris enriches its catalogue with a contemporary interpretation of an elegant yet versatile timepiece that combines traditional mechanical functions with cleaner, more modern styling.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the model marks the return of the Artelier, historically the most classically styled collection in the Oris catalogue.

Reinterpreted with more streamlined proportions and a younger aesthetic, it preserves the collection’s longstanding emphasis on elegant complications.

Central to the watch is a moon-phase display, a feature that continues to bring a poetic dimension to mechanical watchmaking.

The stainless steel case measures 39.5 mm in diameter, 11.8 mm in thickness and 45.5 mm lug-to-lug, dimensions chosen to ensure contemporary presence while maintaining its understated elegance.

Its multi-piece construction is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective treatment, while the screw-down exhibition caseback incorporates a mineral glass window revealing the movement.

Water resistance is rated to 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet).

The dial is available in three colours: ivory, midnight blue and chestnut.

Each version is structured in three distinct zones, with a textured central area, a smooth gently curved outer ring and recessed counters for the complications.

On the chestnut model, the subdials are presented in a darker contrasting tone to reinforce legibility.

At 12 o’clock, the moon-phase display shows a silvered moon against a starry background matched to the curved aperture cover, whose shape allows the waxing and waning cycle to be read while reducing the visual weight traditionally associated with this type of display.

At 6 o’clock, the second time zone is shown on a 24-hour scale, offering practical utility alongside the more decorative lunar indication.

Further details underline the collection’s modern direction. Applied hour markers are tapered and stepped, while the hour and minute hands adopt a square-tipped profile and are filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in low light.

A new sans serif typography for the “Artelier” and “Swiss Made” signatures completes the refreshed identity.

Powering the watch is the automatic Oris Calibre 782, a new evolution derived from the earlier Calibre 781.

The 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) movement incorporates a stop-seconds function for precise setting and delivers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.

One of the practical benefits of this revised architecture is easier operation.

The complications can be adjusted through the crown and a single corrector discreetly integrated into the case flank between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The new Artelier Complication is offered either on a dark brown leather strap with butterfly clasp or on a multi-piece stainless steel bracelet, also secured by a butterfly clasp.

The new Oris Artelier Complication is priced at CHF 2,300 / €2,300 / US$2,950 on leather strap and CHF 2,500 / €2,500 / US$3,150 on steel bracelet. oris.ch

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Baltic x SpaceOne Seconde Majeure introduces jumping-hour display by Théo Auffret

2026-05-10T12:22:00.002+02:00

Baltic and SpaceOne have joined forces to create the Seconde Majeure, a timepiece focusing on an original jumping-hour display developed by independent watchmaker Théo Auffret.

Rather than combining familiar elements from the two brands, this first collaboration introduces a distinct design language built around an unconventional way of reading time.

Housed in a 38.5 mm case, the Seconde Majeure displays the jumping hours at 12 o’clock and the trailing minutes at 6 o’clock, both indicated by rotating sapphire discs.

A large central seconds hand sweeps above the dial, adding motion to a composition defined by symmetry and visible mechanical elements.

The jumping-hour mechanism is integrated into the dial side and partially exposed.

Beneath the minute disc, a control wheel completes one rotation every 60 minutes before engaging a star wheel connected to the hour disc.

A visible jumper spring stores and releases energy, allowing the hour display to change instantaneously at the top of the hour.

The dial, cut from a single piece of maillechort (German silver), also serves as a structural component supporting the complication module.

Two finishes are available: a brushed version and a hand-finished Charbonné execution, the latter produced directly in Théo Auffret’s atelier.

For this collaboration, the brands have utilized 904L stainless steel, a high-alloy material that offers superior corrosion resistance and a higher, more brilliant polish compared to the industry-standard 316L.

The case measures 47.5 mm lug-to-lug and 12.3 mm thick.

Brushed surfaces are contrasted by a polished concave bezel, while curved lugs improve comfort on the wrist.

Power comes from the automatic Soprod P024 calibre operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a 42-hour power reserve, fitted here with the exclusive jumping-hour module.

The watch is paired with a beige Alcantara strap by Delugs. Water resistance is rated to 50 metres.

The Seconde Majeure will be available for pre-order from 12 to 17 May 2026, with production limited to the number of orders placed during that period.

Prices before taxes are set at €2,500 for the Brushed version and €3,500 for the Charbonné model. baltic-watches.com

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 Ref. IW344904 now in Grade 5 titanium

2026-05-09T08:02:00.000+02:00

IWC gives the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 a lightweight Grade 5 titanium execution with the new ref. IW344904, introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026.

Combining a 41.6 mm x 13.2 mm case with an integrated titanium bracelet, the model brings together two signatures of the modern IWC catalogue: the Gérald Genta-inspired Ingenieur design language reintroduced in 2023, and the perpetual calendar system developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s.

At the same time, it becomes the brand’s lightest perpetual calendar wristwatch to date.

The use of Grade 5 titanium gives the watch a markedly different character from steel or precious-metal alternatives.

Around 45 percent lighter than steel while offering high strength and excellent corrosion resistance, the material contributes significantly to comfort on the wrist.

It also introduces a discreet technical aesthetic through its natural grey tone.

IWC has matched this material with an elaborate range of surface treatments. The case, bezel, crown guards and bracelet links are predominantly sandblasted, with polished bevels highlighting the geometry of the design, while satin-finishing along the flanks adds further contrast.

The familiar round bezel is secured by five functional screws, preserving one of the key visual codes of the Ingenieur.

Those familiar with last year’s Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in stainless steel with blue dial will recognise the same proportions and calendar architecture, now reinterpreted in a more monochromatic and lighter form.

The matte grey dial has been designed to integrate visually with the titanium case and bracelet, creating an almost monobloc appearance.

It features the characteristic “Grid” motif formed by fine lines and squares, adding depth without disturbing legibility.

Three subdials display the perpetual calendar indications: the date at 3 o’clock, the month with integrated moon phase at 6 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock.

A small leap-year indication is incorporated into the left-hand register. Circular satin-finishing and azurage details distinguish the counters from the main dial surface, while applied markers and hands filled with Super-LumiNova ensure visibility in reduced light.

The perpetual calendar remains one of IWC’s most practical complications. Developed by former chief watchmaker Kurt Klaus, the mechanism is synchronised through the crown and automatically compensates for the varying lengths of months, including leap years.

The moon-phase display is also highly precise, requiring correction by one day only after 577.5 years.

Powering the watch is the IWC-manufactured calibre 82600, an automatic movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

The movement employs IWC’s Pellaton winding system, which converts rotor motion in both directions into winding energy.

Components subject to higher wear, including the automatic wheel and clicks, are made from zirconium oxide ceramic for enhanced durability.

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the calibre is decorated with Geneva stripes, circular graining and blued screws.

Water resistance is rated to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

Combining reduced weight, refined finishing and one of the brand’s most enduring complications, the new IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 ref. IW344904 is is priced at €44,500 (including VAT) / US$44,000 (excluding sales taxes). iwc.com

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Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon adds ornamental stone to its 2 mm ultra-thin design

2026-05-08T12:39:00.001+02:00

Piaget continues its long-standing exploration of ultra-thin watchmaking with the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon ref. G0A51540, now enriched by the addition of ornamental stone decoration within its record-setting 2 mm profile.

First unveiled in 2024 with a blue interpretation that demonstrated the Maison’s ability to unite extreme thinness with contemporary design (read our previous coverage here), the concept now evolves into a warmer and more expressive execution combining technical complexity with decorative craftsmanship.

At the heart of the watch is the Piaget manufacture calibre 970P-UC, an ultra-thin hand-wound movement integrated directly into the case architecture.

As with the earlier calibre 900P, introduced in 2013, there is no traditional separation between movement and case: the caseback itself serves as the movement’s mainplate, a solution that saves vital space while preserving rigidity.

This construction remains fundamental to achieving the extraordinary overall thickness of just 2 mm.

The 41.5 mm case is crafted from deep brown treated cobalt alloy, a material selected for its favourable ratio of strength to thinness. Its rigidity is particularly important in a watch where every component must operate within microscopic tolerances.

The hours and minutes are displayed on the familiar off-centre dial, while the flying tourbillon is positioned at 10 o’clock.

A seconds scale engraved on the tourbillon ring provides a discreet running indication. Integrating all these functions within such limited vertical space remains one of the most remarkable aspects of the watch’s engineering.

The latest interpretation introduces ornamental stone to the bridges and dial elements, requiring a level of assembly precision beyond conventional finishing.

Stones are mounted on components that form part of the movement itself, meaning cleaning operations must be carried out without damaging the delicate surfaces.

Piaget notes that this process requires the use of a 0.15 mm needle, the finest employed by the manufacture.

Reference G0A51540 combines brown tones with pink gold-coloured accents and honey-hued tiger’s eye stone, creating a rich visual identity that contrasts with the technical austerity often associated with ultra-thin watchmaking.

In keeping with Piaget’s historical affinity for hardstone dials, the Maison also offers bespoke possibilities with a choice of four case colours and four ornamental stones: tiger’s eye, blue sodalite, jade or onyx, alongside additional personalisation options.

Energy is supplied by a skeletonised barrel inspired by the crosshair motif of earlier Altiplano models.

Piaget explains that the construction has been designed to deliver the additional power required by the tourbillon regulator, approximately 25% more than a comparable movement with a fixed regulating organ.

The crown is integrated into the case band and operated via a dedicated stylus tool incorporating gear reduction and torque control, allowing winding and setting without compromising the thinness of the profile.

Despite its extreme construction, the watch offers water resistance to 2 ATM and is fitted to a brown calfskin strap with polished mesh pattern and Kevlar core, secured by a cobalt alloy pin buckle.

Engraved on the back beside the sapphire aperture beneath the tourbillon is Piaget’s long-standing motto: “Always do better than necessary,” a phrase that aptly reflects the philosophy behind this remarkable creation.

The price of the new Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon ref. G0A51540 is provided on request. piaget.com

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum 104344 continues the exceptional ultra-thin saga

2026-05-07T14:25:00.000+02:00

Entirely crafted in platinum, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon ref. 104344 continues the exceptional series of record-breaking ultra-thin watches by Bulgari.

With both case and bracelet executed in the noble metal, the watch asserts an even more exclusive presence.

Distinguished by blue accents and a bracelet combining satin-brushed and polished finishes, the model remains the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon at just 1.85 mm in total thickness. It joins the titanium version that set the tenth world record for thinness in the Octo Finissimo saga and was later recognised at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2025.

Presented at Watches and Wonders 2026, this new interpretation retains the 40 mm proportions of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon while introducing one of watchmaking’s most demanding materials.

Platinum’s density, purity and particular machining requirements make its use in an ultra-thin construction especially complex, requiring dedicated expertise and tooling.

The case architecture integrates the movement directly into the main structure, a principle that has become central to the Ultra concept.

Rather than stacking calibre and case in the conventional manner, Bulgari uses the caseback as the movement’s mainplate, allowing the extraordinary reduction in height while preserving mechanical integrity.

Powering the watch is the hand-wound BVF 900 flying tourbillon calibre, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offering a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

Despite its extreme thinness, the movement remains fully functional and conceived for regular wear.

The skeletonised display receives a distinctive blue treatment for this limited edition, creating a visual contrast against the silvery tone of the platinum surfaces.

Collectors will also note a specially treated mainplate, a steel ratchet wheel, and the bracelet’s alternating satin-brushed and polished finishing, details developed specifically for this series.

Visible on the dial side, the flying tourbillon continues to serve as both regulating organ and focal point, emphasising the technical sophistication of a watch in which every fraction of a millimetre matters.

Limited to 10 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum ref. 104344 underlines Bulgari’s ongoing commitment to combining advanced engineering with precious materials and contemporary design language. Pricing is available on request. bulgari.com

Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732 revive 1960s design

2026-05-06T12:09:00.003+02:00

Panerai expands its historical Luminor line with two hand-wound models that reinterpret the design language of the Maison’s military diving watches from the 1960s.

First showcased at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the new Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732 draw inspiration from vintage references such as the 6152/1 (see our "History of the Panerai Luminor" article for pictures and details), while introducing contemporary construction standards, a 44 mm case size and the manufacture calibre P.6000.

Rather than focusing on aged finishes, these releases concentrate on the defining functional elements that established the Panerai identity: the cushion-shaped case, crown-protecting bridge, sandwich dial architecture, high legibility in low light and robust water resistance.

The two models share the same newly developed 44 mm polished steel case, which translates the proportions of the historical 47 mm references into a more versatile contemporary format.

The structure combines a polished bezel with a brushed crown-protecting bridge, preserving the contrast between surfaces that characterised earlier Panerai tool watches.

Water resistance is rated to 30 bar (300 metres / 1,000 feet).

A domed sapphire crystal recalls the visual profile of the acrylic crystals once used on vintage military models, while the sapphire caseback reveals the movement within.

The first of the two references, PAM01731, adopts a matte grainy tobacco-coloured sandwich dial with beige Super-LumiNova and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.

It is paired with a dark brown calf leather strap with beige stitching and supplied with an additional dark brown rubber strap.

The second model, PAM01732, is the left-handed Destro interpretation, with the crown-protecting bridge repositioned at 9 o’clock so the watch can be worn on the right wrist.

Historically associated with military divers requiring greater freedom of movement, the configuration remains one of Panerai’s most recognisable special executions.

This version features a matte grainy blue sandwich dial with a cleaner two-hand display, and is delivered with a light brown calf leather strap plus a second blue rubber strap.

Powering both watches is the hand-wound Panerai calibre P.6000, a movement measuring 15½ lignes in diameter and 4.5 mm thick.

Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), it uses a traversing balance bridge for improved stability and incorporates an Incabloc anti-shock system. Power reserve is three days (72 hours) from a single barrel.

The movement also features a stop-seconds mechanism for precise setting when the crown is pulled out.

Through the caseback, the calibre displays horizontal brushing on the plates together with blue engravings.

These new references also underline Panerai’s continued emphasis on durability.

The brand states that each watch undergoes individual pressure testing above its rated depth, including an additional safety margin beyond the guaranteed specification.

With these two releases, Panerai continues to explore its archive through historically coherent modern interpretations, following the recently introduced Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 Brunito, but here with a cleaner and more utilitarian approach.

The new Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732 are priced at €8,900 / US$9,200. panerai.com

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New MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition pays tribute to the brand’s beginnings

2026-05-05T13:34:00.001+02:00

As part of the ongoing celebrations marking its 25th anniversary, MeisterSinger presents the new Unitas 1Z Edition, a limited series that looks back to the brand’s early years while reaffirming the principles that have defined it since the beginning: clear displays, mechanical watchmaking, and a more measured approach to time.

The anniversary programme began earlier this year with the launch of the Panthero Jumping Hour, and now continues with a model that pays tribute to the Edition 1Z, introduced in 2004 as MeisterSinger’s first special edition featuring an enamel dial.

Produced in 222 pieces, that watch also stood out for its use of the Unitas 6497 pocket-watch movement and helped establish a tradition of annual enamel editions within the collection.

The 2004 Edition 1Z

For 2026, the concept returns in a more exclusive form.

The Unitas 1Z Edition is limited to 25 pieces and presented in a newly developed 40 mm stainless steel case, proportioned to showcase the large manually wound calibre within.

Water resistance is rated to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet), while sapphire crystals front and back allow a clear view of both dial and movement.

The white dial is crafted in genuine enamel, using a traditional multi-stage process in which finely ground enamel powder is applied to a copper base and repeatedly fired at around 800°C.

As with all Grand Feu enamel work, even slight variations in temperature or timing can affect the result, making each successful dial the product of considerable skill and experience.

Its design takes inspiration from historical pocket watches. MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand display is retained, with flowing numerals in the brand’s “365” style, slender hour markers and dots marking each five-minute interval.

An inner ring of numerals highlights the passing minutes within each hour, while the elongated hand is crafted in heat-blued steel, adding a subtle contrast against the bright enamel surface.

Turning the watch over reveals one of its main attractions: the ETA/Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement.

Originally conceived for pocket watches, this calibre is now rarely seen in contemporary wristwatches, yet remains appreciated for its generous dimensions, robust construction and clear architecture.

For this edition, the movement is finished with Geneva stripes, blued screws and a swan-neck fine regulator.

MeisterSinger specifies a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), higher than the slower beat traditionally associated with the calibre, helping improve rate stability. Power reserve is approximately 46 hours.

The large movement nearly fills the caseback opening, reinforcing the watch’s mechanical character and historical inspiration.

The watch is paired with an ice-blue bovine leather strap with croco embossing, secured by a double folding clasp.

Produced in just 25 examples, the new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition (ref. ED-Unitas-01E) is priced at €6,990 and is available from Q2 2026. meistersinger.com

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar: clarity and refinement

2026-05-04T13:06:00.001+02:00

An exercise in refined understatement, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne presents one of watchmaking’s most practical complications in a format that prioritises clarity and balance.

Time and date can be read at a glance, while the remaining indications — day of the week, month and moon phase — are arranged across three counters positioned at 3, 9 and 6 o’clock respectively.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026 alongside the impressive Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar is offered in two versions: a pink gold model with grey dial (ref. 331.033 E) and a white gold variant paired with an argenté-coloured dial (ref. 331.026 E).

The classic round Saxonia case measures 36 mm in diameter and 9.8 mm in thickness, dimensions that reinforce the model’s elegant proportions.

The lancet-shaped hands and baton appliques, now distinguished by peripheral ends recalling a pyramid profile, match the colour of the case. A delicate outer minute track completes the display.

The subsidiary dials for the day, month and running seconds are slightly recessed.

Their outer rings feature fine azurage, while the central sections display a deeper execution of the same decoration, enhancing the dial’s sense of depth.

Integrated within the running seconds display, the moon-phase indication shows the moon crossing a star-filled sky. It requires correction by one day only after 122.6 years.

The lunar disc, crafted in 750 gold, receives a deep blue coating and is decorated with 428 stars forming a miniature representation of the Milky Way.

The annual calendar mechanism is programmed to automatically distinguish between 30- and 31-day months.

Adjustment is required only once per year, at the transition from the end of February to the first day of March.

Lange has also focused on ease of use: all calendar indications and the moon phase can be adjusted individually via correctors or advanced together through a pusher at 10 o’clock.

Powering the watch is the new self-winding manufacture calibre L207.1, operating at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and delivering a power reserve of 60 hours.

Equipped with a unidirectional central rotor featuring a 950 platinum centrifugal mass, the movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Traditional finishing details include the hand-engraved balance cock, screwed gold chatons, polished surfaces and other decorative techniques characteristic of Saxon watchmaking.

Worn on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne is priced at approximately €65,000. alange-soehne.com

Baume & Mercier Riviera 73 revives the original 1973 spirit in three new models

2026-05-03T08:45:00.001+02:00

Baume & Mercier expands its Riviera collection with the new Riviera 73 series, a trio of 39 mm quartz models inspired by the aesthetic codes of the first Riviera launched in 1973.

Faithful to the collection’s hallmark dodecagonal case while refined for contemporary tastes, the new references emphasise slim proportions, clean dial design and everyday versatility.

The launch comprises three stainless steel versions. Reference M0A10845 pairs a white opaline dial with the integrated steel bracelet, offering the most classic interpretation of the new series.

Two blue-dial models complete the line-up: reference M0A10844 on steel bracelet and reference M0A10846 on a midnight blue calfskin strap with contrasting light blue stitching.

All three models share a polished and satin-finished stainless steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter and just 7.7 mm thick, giving the Riviera 73 a notably slender profile on the wrist.

The bezel retains the collection’s distinctive twelve-sided form but, in a nod to early Riviera models, appears without visible screws.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while water resistance is rated to 5 ATM (50 metres / 165 feet).

The octagonal crown bears the Phi emblem of the Maison. Around the back, a solid caseback is engraved with “73” framed by vertical lines recalling a yacht deck, with typography inspired by the 1970s.

Baume & Mercier also notes that the caseback can be personalised through engraving.

Each dial features the Riviera’s wave motif together with Roman numerals, riveted indexes and a date aperture at 3 o’clock.

The blue references use rhodium-plated indexes with openworked rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, while the white dial model is distinguished by ruthenium-toned applied markers and matching hands.

Powering the watches is the quartz calibre ETA F06.115, providing hours, minutes and date functions together with an autonomy of approximately five years.

The use of quartz is historically coherent, as the first Riviera models of 1973 were introduced with quartz movements before automatic versions followed.

The bracelet versions are secured by a triple folding clasp with push-piece release, while the leather strap model is fitted with a polished stainless steel pin buckle.

All three references benefit from an interchangeable spring-bar system that allows strap or bracelet changes without tools.

With the Riviera 73, Baume & Mercier revisits one of its defining designs through a slimmer interpretation that places emphasis on proportion and wearability while preserving the Riviera’s instantly recognisable identity.

The new Baume & Mercier Riviera 73 references M0A10844 and M0A10845 on bracelet are priced at €1,950 / US$1,950, while reference M0A10846 on strap is priced at €1,800 / US$1,800. baume-et-mercier.com

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Zenith unveils Chronomaster Sport Skeleton with openworked El Primero 3600

2026-05-02T08:59:00.000+02:00

Zenith expands its contemporary chronograph offering with the new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton, an openworked interpretation of the Chronomaster Sport that places the El Primero calibre at the centre of attention while introducing a newly developed folding clasp with on-the-fly micro-adjustment.

At launch, Zenith presented four versions, each offering a different interpretation of the model.

Two stainless steel references are available with either a black ceramic bezel (ref. 03.3130.3600 / 01.M3130) or a green ceramic bezel (ref. 03.3131.3600 / 01.M3130), both fitted to a three-link steel bracelet and accompanied by a matching rubber strap.

A third version in 18-carat rose gold pairs a black ceramic bezel with a black rubber strap (ref. 18.3130.3600 / 01.R951).

Completing the range is a limited edition of 10 pieces in rose gold (ref. 22.3130.3600 / 01.M3100), distinguished by a matching gold bracelet and a bezel set with 52 baguette-cut diamonds totalling approximately 5 carats.

All versions share a 41 mm case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, preserving the sporty profile of the Chronomaster Sport while adding greater visual depth through the transparent dial.

Water resistance is rated to 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet).

The dial is formed from sapphire crystal with a smoked black gradient that becomes increasingly transparent toward the centre, revealing the skeletonised movement below.

Zenith retains the familiar overlapping tri-colour counters in grey, anthracite and blue, a direct reference to the original El Primero introduced in 1969.

Applied baton hour markers and faceted hands are rhodium-plated and coated with Super-LumiNova SLN C1 to enhance legibility.

Powering the watch is the automatic El Primero 3600 SK, a skeletonised evolution of Zenith’s latest high-frequency chronograph calibre.

Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), it enables direct measurement of 1/10th of a second through the central chronograph hand, which completes one full rotation in 10 seconds.

The elapsed reading is displayed against the ceramic bezel engraved with a 10-second scale, making the indication immediately intuitive to use.

The movement uses a column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture, both visible through the dial and sapphire caseback. Zenith highlights the column wheel in blue, while a silicon escape wheel and lever contribute to long-term precision and reduced wear.

A stop-seconds mechanism allows accurate setting, while power reserve is rated at approximately 60 hours. Winding is handled by a newly shaped openworked rotor engraved with the Zenith star.

One of the practical novelties of the steel models is the introduction of the patented ZENCLASP folding clasp.

Comprising 41 components, it incorporates a micro-adjustment device that allows tool-free resizing directly on the wrist in 2.5 mm increments, with a total adjustment range of 10 mm.

Zenith states that durability testing simulated more than ten years of use, representing over 600,000 opening and closing cycles.

Prices for the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Skeleton are set at CHF 14,900 / €16,500 / US$16,700 for the stainless steel versions, CHF 27,900 / €31,200 / US$31,500 for the rose gold model, and CHF 99,000 / €111,400 / US$111,000 for the 10-piece gem-set limited edition. zenith-watches.com

Richard Mille RM 55-01 Manual Winding with new ultra-light calibre RMUL4

2026-05-01T12:23:00.000+02:00

Richard Mille has introduced the new RM 55-01 Manual Winding, a timepiece developed around a principle often associated with Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: true refinement comes not from adding more, but from removing everything unnecessary.

The result is a watch whose architecture has been reduced to essential mechanical functions, with each component positioned according to structural or technical purpose.

The model is offered in three case variations — Carbon TPT, Grey Quartz TPT and White Quartz TPT — each measuring 47.33 mm x 37.95 mm with a thickness of 10.75 mm.

These advanced composite materials combine low weight with strong resistance to shocks and scratches, while their layered surfaces give each version a distinct visual identity. The tonneau-shaped case retains the taut lines and curved ergonomics that define the Richard Mille silhouette.

At the centre of the watch is the new hand-wound Calibre RMUL4, an ultra-light movement weighing less than 5 grams.

Operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and delivering a power reserve of approximately 55 hours, it continues Richard Mille’s long-standing emphasis on lightweight engineering and openworked construction.

The choice of manual winding contributes to that objective by eliminating the mass of an automatic rotor, while also allowing an unobstructed view through the movement.

The calibre is built on a Grade 5 titanium baseplate, selected for its rigidity, corrosion resistance and low weight. Its surfaces receive a microblasted treatment with black PVD coating.

The going train is supported by three Grade 5 titanium bridges, finished with brushing and treated with Titalyt, an electrochemical oxidation process that increases surface hardness and resistance to wear while giving the metal a matte appearance.

As with many Richard Mille movements, the regulating organ is designed with stability and shock resistance in mind.

The free-sprung balance uses variable inertia adjustment through four movable weights rather than a traditional index regulator, improving long-term rate consistency. A stop-seconds mechanism is also integrated for precise time setting.

Energy is supplied by a twin-barrel system engineered to provide more consistent torque delivery over the running period.

By distributing energy through two barrels, pressure on internal components is reduced, contributing to smoother power transmission across the 55-hour autonomy.

The movement is secured inside the case by Grade 5 titanium spline screws and framed by satin-finished pillars with polished bezels.

Above it, rhodium-plated hands with microblasted surfaces sweep over a multi-part flange combining titanium, carbon fibre and steel, adding depth and contrast while preserving legibility.

Water resistance is rated at 50 metres / 165 feet.

The new Richard Mille RM 55-01 Manual Winding is priced at CHF 155,000, excluding taxes. richardmille.com

Nomos Glashütte adds white silver-plated dial to Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer ref. 792

2026-04-30T13:47:00.000+02:00

With the introduction of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer with white silver-plated dial (ref. 792), Nomos Glashütte adds a new dial execution to one of its most technically accomplished models, which we examined in detail in our review of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer.

While the underlying architecture remains unchanged, this version focuses on clarity and legibility through a different approach to dial finishing.

The 40 mm stainless steel case retains its compact proportions, with a thickness of 9.9 mm made possible by the ultra-thin automatic calibre DUW 3202, which itself measures only 4.8 mm in height despite integrating a full worldtime complication.

The tripartite construction includes a screw-down crown and a sapphire crystal caseback, ensuring water resistance to 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet).

These specifications, combined with the integrated Club Sport stainless steel bracelet with quick-change spring bars—alternatively paired with a dark grey textile strap—preserve the model’s positioning as a practical travel watch suited to both everyday use and more active contexts.

Compared to the sunburst-finished launch versions, the white silver-plated dial introduces a more matte surface, resulting in a more streamlined and legible presentation of the worldtime display.

In this configuration, the multi-layered layout appears even clearer, with reduced reflections helping to define each element.

The city ring encircles the dial and can be advanced via the pusher at 2 o’clock, allowing the wearer to move across 24 time zones in one-hour increments.

A 24-hour subdial indicates home time and is framed by a bicolour ring distinguishing day and night, while a peripheral scale enables quick calculation of time differences.

Red accents remain limited to functional highlights, including the marker indicating the selected time zone, while Super-LumiNova on the rhodium-plated hands and hour markers ensures visibility in low-light conditions.

Through the sapphire caseback, the DUW 3202 calibre reveals a construction consistent with Nomos’ approach to movement design, combining a fully integrated worldtime mechanism with the brand’s proprietary swing system and blue balance spring.

Alternatively, a solid caseback is available, offering the possibility of a personalised engraving of up to 88 characters, provided by Nomos free of charge.

Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz and offering a power reserve of approximately 42 hours, the movement features a bidirectional rotor with a gold globe motif, a stop-seconds mechanism, and is adjusted in six positions.

Finishing includes Glashütte ribbing, perlage, tempered blue screws and a three-quarter plate, maintaining the brand’s characteristic aesthetic language.

Now joining the permanent collection alongside the existing blue and silver sunburst variants, the reference 792 offers a more neutral interpretation of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer, focusing on legibility without altering its technical foundation.

Pricing is set at €4,260 / US$5,580 with the stainless steel bracelet or €4,080 / US$5,350 with the textile strap. nomos-glashuette.com

Patek Philippe marks 50 years of the Nautilus with four limited editions

2026-04-29T13:46:00.001+02:00

On the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe presented four limited editions at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, revisiting the collection’s original design codes with a focus on purity, proportions and case slimness.

Introduced in 1976, the Nautilus marked a clear departure from traditional luxury watchmaking, combining a steel case with a distinctive porthole-inspired design and integrated bracelet.

Its construction, based on a two-part case with lateral hinges and a clamped bezel, ensured water resistance while maintaining a relatively thin profile. Over time, the model has evolved through various interpretations, while remaining faithful to its recognisable aesthetic.

For this anniversary, the Manufacture returns to a more restrained display, with three wristwatches indicating only hours and minutes, powered by the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240.

Measuring just 2.53 mm in height and operating at 3 Hz, this movement—introduced in 1977—features a 22K gold mini-rotor engraved with “50 1976 – 2026” and offers a minimum power reserve of 48 hours.

The two 41 mm “Jumbo” models, references 5810/1G-001 (bracelet) and 5810G-001 (strap), are crafted in white gold and maintain a notably slim profile of 6.9 mm.

Their minimalist approach emphasises the geometry of the case and the horizontal embossing of the blue sunburst dial.

The bracelet version features applied baton hour markers and hands in white gold with luminescent coating, while the variant on a composite strap adds baguette-cut diamond-set hour markers.

Both are produced as limited editions of 2,000 and 1,000 pieces respectively.

A more compact interpretation is offered by reference 5610/1P-001, housed in a 38 mm platinum case with the same 6.9 mm thickness.

Its proportions recall earlier mid-size Nautilus models, while a diamond discreetly set into the case flank at 9 o’clock signals the use of platinum.

The blue embossed dial ensures clear legibility, and the integrated bracelet continues the alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes typical of the collection.

This version is also limited to 2,000 pieces.

Completing the anniversary series is an unexpected desk watch, reference 958G-001, which translates the Nautilus design into a larger format.

Crafted in white gold, the case measures 50.65 mm and retains the characteristic bezel and construction.

The blue dial with horizontal embossing is complemented by baguette-cut diamond hour markers.

A hinged cover on the back reveals the manually wound calibre 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, delivering an 8-day power reserve thanks to twin barrels connected in series.

Operating at 4 Hz, the movement incorporates a Pulsomax escapement and Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar, and displays day, date, small seconds and power reserve. This model is issued in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

All three wristwatches are water-resistant to 30 metres / 100 feet, in line with Patek Philippe’s updated standard introduced in 2024, while the desk watch is protected against humidity and dust.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5610/1P-001 in platinum is priced at €106,919, while the Nautilus reference 5810/1G-001 on a white gold bracelet is set at €89,099 and the Nautilus reference 5810G-001 on a composite strap at €71,280; the Nautilus desk watch reference 958G-001 is priced at €243,537. patek.com

Review: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph 2026 brings the icon closer to its roots

2026-04-28T14:17:00.000+02:00

Together with the Monaco Evergraph presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva, TAG Heuer also introduced a comprehensively reworked Monaco Chronograph, revisiting one of the most recognisable square watches in modern horology through a case redesign, upgraded ergonomics and a new in-house movement.

More than a simple update, the 2026 Monaco Chronograph was clearly conceived as a return to the spirit of the original 1969 reference 1133, while adapting the model to contemporary expectations in comfort, proportions and everyday wearability.

The Monaco remains a watch whose identity is inseparable from its unusual geometry. In 1969, the combination of a square water-resistant case, left-hand crown and automatic chronograph movement was genuinely disruptive (to learn more about this iconic watch, don't miss our feature article "The history of the TAG Heuer Monaco").

Over the decades, the model became an icon, not least through its association with Steve McQueen in Le Mans, yet successive generations often interpreted rather than directly echoed the first reference.

This latest version takes a more historically attentive route.

The case still measures 39 mm across, but it has been entirely reworked in Grade 5 titanium, with sharper edges, more defined surfaces and a profile that sits more naturally on the wrist.

Grade 5 allows for a sophisticated interplay of fine-brushed, polished, and sand-blasted surfaces, resulting in sharper edges and more defined facets that would otherwise be difficult to achieve in Grade 2 titanium.

The choice of titanium significantly reduces weight compared with steel predecessors, while the curved case flanks and reshaped caseback improve balance.

Water resistance is rated at 100 metres / 330 feet, making this one of the most practical Monaco executions to date.

The square sapphire crystal has been redesigned with a more faithful outline and rises above the bezel with a softened bevel, helping preserve the model’s architectural presence without excessive bulk.

The overall thickness is 13.9 mm.

Attention to ergonomics is also evident in the smaller round central section of the caseback, which curves toward the edges, echoing a design feature of the original while enhancing overall comfort.

The familiar crown remains positioned at 9 o’clock, opposite the chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, maintaining one of the collection’s most distinctive traits.

It is a layout that once derived from movement architecture but has long since become part of Monaco lore.

For our review, we photographed the blue and green dial executions, each highlighting a different facet of this new generation’s design language.

The collection is completed by a third version pairing a black dial with a two-tone Grade 5 titanium and 18K 5N rose gold case, offering a more elevated interpretation of the new Monaco Chronograph.

The blue model (ref. CDW2181.FC8360) is the most direct nod to Monaco history, recalling the colourway made famous in the early 1970s.

Its opaline blue dial is paired with silver counters, red accents on the central chronograph seconds hand and minute track, and rhodium-plated applied indexes.

It remains the most emblematic execution, and the one most closely associated with the Monaco’s public image.

The green version (ref. CDW2180.FC8360) offers a different personality.

The sunray-brushed and lacquered dial plays with changing light more dynamically than the blue opaline surface, shifting from deep forest tones to brighter metallic reflections.

Black chronograph counters provide strong contrast against the white printed scale and rhodium-plated hands.

Across both models, the dial layout adopts a bi-compax arrangement with a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, running seconds at 9 o’clock and a date aperture at 6 o’clock.

This configuration references the original Calibre 11-era Monaco while also bringing greater symmetry than some previous versions.

Typography and text placement have been carefully considered for optimal legibility.

For low-light conditions, white Super-LumiNova is applied to the hour markings on the minute track, as well as the hour and minute hands.

Powering the watch is the Calibre TH20-11, an in-house automatic chronograph derived from TAG Heuer’s TH20 platform but specifically reconfigured for the Monaco. It operates at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and delivers an 80-hour power reserve, a substantial improvement over older Monaco movements.

It features a column wheel and vertical clutch for precise actuation, paired with a bidirectional oscillating weight that echoes the shape of the TAG Heuer shield.

This winding system was designed to improve winding efficiency and help the movement spend more time near optimal torque levels, which can contribute to more stable timekeeping in daily wear.

In daily use, this longer autonomy is one of the most tangible benefits of the upgrade, allowing the watch to be left aside for several days without stopping.

The movement’s Geneva stripes and openworked rotor can be appreciated through the sapphire caseback.

The chronograph pushers feel positive and crisp, with a reassuring engagement that suits the model’s sporting roots.

On the wrist, the reduced weight of titanium transforms the experience. Monaco watches have often worn larger than their nominal dimensions suggest, but this version feels noticeably more manageable.

The perforated black calfskin strap reinforces the motorsport theme and closes with a newly designed Grade 5 titanium folding clasp featuring double safety push-buttons. The lug width is 22.5 mm.

For reference, the wrist shown in our pictures measures 17.8 cm / 7 in.

What emerges from this new Monaco Chronograph is not a radical reinterpretation but a carefully considered evolution that brings the model closer to its original spirit while addressing modern expectations.

Its redesigned case is both more ergonomic and more faithful to the proportions and character of the 1969 reference, improving comfort on the wrist and elevating perceived refinement.

The introduction of the in-house automatic Calibre TH20-11 further strengthens the package, adding a contemporary technical platform with enhanced reliability and an 80-hour power reserve.

Rather than trying to reinvent an icon through stylistic excess, TAG Heuer has focused on making it better.

The blue and green TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph references are priced at CHF 8,800 / €9,300 / US$9,350, while the two-tone titanium and rose gold version is priced at CHF 12,300 / €13,000 / US$13,050. tagheuer.com

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Eberhard & Co. presents Scafograf 200 MCMLIX with 39 mm case

2026-04-27T14:20:00.002+02:00

Presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Eberhard & Co. introduces the new Scafograf 200 MCMLIX, a model that draws directly from the Scafograf 100 of 1959, the Maison’s first professional diver.

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 100, circa 1959 - Courtesy of Pandolfini Auction House

The new model is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter, a compact size that reflects both contemporary preferences and historical proportions, and joins the larger Scafograf 300 MCMLIX, featuring a 43 mm case.

Water resistance is rated at 200 metres / 660 feet, supported by a screw-in caseback engraved with a starfish motif, a screw-down crown protected by two guards, and the presence of an automatic helium escape valve at 9 o’clock—an element associated with professional saturation diving, ensuring the safe release of helium during deep-sea dives.

The case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, while the 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel integrates a black or blue ceramic insert with vintage-style luminous markings on the first 15 minutes.

The dial is available in four versions: black dégradé (ref. 41047.01), black with a silver-toned minute track (ref. 41047.02), blue dégradé (ref. 41047.03) and blue with a silver-toned minute track (ref. 41047.04).

Across all versions, legibility remains a defining feature.

Applied hour markers with polished profiles incorporate vintage-toned luminescent material, with triangular indexes at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock—a direct reference to the 1959 model.

The hour hand reprises this geometry with its distinctive triangular tip, while a baton-style minute hand and a central seconds hand with a circular luminescent segment complete the display.

The watch is powered by a Swiss self-winding movement operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The caseback is decorated with a starfish, the symbol of the Scafograf collection.

The strap attachment measures 19 mm, and the watch can be paired either with a vintage-style water-repellent leather strap, the traditional Chassis stainless steel bracelet, or a newly introduced stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet.

Both metal bracelets are equipped with the proprietary 2CLICK folding clasp.

Prices for the new Scafograf 200 MCMLIX diver’s watches by Eberhard & Co. start at CHF 3,180. eberhard-co-watches.ch

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The new Tudor Monarch: faceted case and Roman-Arabic dial

2026-04-26T11:55:00.001+02:00

With the introduction of the new Monarch, Tudor revisits a name with a century-old legacy, now expressed through contemporary construction and performance standards.

This latest addition combines a faceted aesthetic with the performance standards of METAS Master Chronometer certification.

The stainless steel case measures 39 mm in diameter, 11.9 mm in thickness and 46.2 mm lug-to-lug, offering balanced proportions that bridge mid-century design references with contemporary construction.

The visual identity of the Monarch is defined by its sharp lines and a two-link faceted bracelet, featuring the proprietary “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp.

The dial, rendered in a dark champagne “papyrus” tone, adopts an “Error-Proof” layout—referencing early archival designs—with Roman numerals from 10 to 2 and Arabic numerals from 4 to 8.

These applied markers provide a classical counterpoint to the geometry of the case.

For everyday use, the watch is fitted with a screw-down winding crown, ensuring water resistance to 100 metres / 330 feet.

Produced for the brand by Kenissi Manufacture, the Calibre MT5662-2U reflects Tudor’s ongoing effort to extend Master Chronometer certification across its collection.

This standard requires the watch to operate within a daily deviation of 0/+5 seconds and to remain unaffected by magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss.

The movement features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring and a variable inertia balance wheel secured by a traversing bridge, oscillating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour).

Visible through the sapphire caseback, it is finished with perlage on the mainplate and Côtes de Genève on the bridges, along with an 18-carat gold inlay on the bidirectional rotor.

Performance is verified through a dual process: initial COSC certification followed by METAS testing, which evaluates precision at different temperatures, in multiple positions and at varying levels of power reserve.

The movement delivers a 65-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to run from Friday evening to Monday morning without winding.

The new Tudor Monarch (Ref. 2639W1A0U – 26060) is priced at CHF 4,800 / €5,460 / US$5,875. tudorwatch.com

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Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux redefines the chronograph display

2026-04-25T08:44:00.000+02:00

With the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux, Parmigiani Fleurier introduces a new chronograph architecture that redefines both the display and operation of one of watchmaking’s most codified complications.

Conceived without traditional sub-dials, it offers a full-dial reading while keeping the chronograph function entirely concealed when not in use.

At rest, the watch retains the visual purity of a three-hand Tonda PF, with no indication of the complication beneath.

This development is based on an unprecedented structure bringing together a triple clutch construction, comprising one vertical clutch and two horizontal clutches, and five coaxial hands at the centre of the dial.

When activated, three hands deploy to measure hours, minutes and seconds, while two others ensure the continuity of civil time. The result is an innovative display configuration in watchmaking, developed over several years.

Since 2022, the Maison has explored complications revealed on demand, notably with the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante.

In this new model, the concept is extended to the chronograph, integrating the function without altering the equilibrium of the dial and allowing it to appear only when required.

The entire sequence is controlled by a mono-pusher integrated into the caseband at 7:30.

A first press triggers an instantaneous flyback of the three rhodium-plated chronograph hands, which align at 12 o’clock before starting immediately in perfect synchronisation.

At the same time, the rose gold hour and minute hands dedicated to civil time appear, allowing both indications to coexist seamlessly. Measurement unfolds across the full dial, free from conventional counters.

A second press stops the chronograph, enabling a direct reading of elapsed time, while a third press realigns the chronograph hands precisely with the current time, restoring the original three-hand display.

In this configuration, a single central seconds hand alternates between civil and chronograph functions.

Such a system required a dedicated movement. The automatic manufacture calibre PF053 was developed specifically for this timepiece around the principle of complete disappearance of the chronograph indications at rest.

Built as an integrated column-wheel chronograph, it comprises 362 components and 41 jewels, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), and delivers a power reserve of 60 hours.

Measuring 32.4 mm in diameter, it incorporates a complex triple clutch architecture combining one vertical and two horizontal clutches, enabling the superimposition and transformation of hand functions with precise and instantaneous transitions.

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the movement is finished according to the Maison’s standards, with satin-finished openworked bridges, bevelled edges and a skeletonised 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight featuring alternating polished and sandblasted surfaces.

The watch is housed in a stainless steel case with alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness, and is water-resistant to 100 metres.

The knurled bezel in platinum 950, a defining element of the Tonda PF collection, frames a Mineral Blue dial decorated with hand-crafted Grain d’Orge guilloché, whose texture subtly modulates light.

Applied rhodium-plated gold indices and skeletonised delta-shaped hands in 18-carat rose gold reinforce the refined aesthetic, while the integrated stainless steel bracelet ensures continuity with the case design and is secured by a folding clasp.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux ref. PFC908-1020001-100182 is priced at CHF 36,900, offering a technically sophisticated reinterpretation of the chronograph centred on clarity, discretion and mechanical ingenuity. parmigiani.com

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Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Jasper reinterprets its sculptural display with red jasper

2026-04-24T16:17:00.007+02:00

The new Cyrus Genève Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Jasper builds on one of the Manufacture’s most distinctive complications, introducing a new material dimension while preserving the architectural identity of the model.

This latest interpretation retains the vertical tourbillon concept while incorporating natural stone elements into the display, offering a different visual balance between mechanics and material, in line with the Malachite version introduced in 2024.

The watch is housed in a Grade 5 titanium case, reduced to 42.5 mm in diameter from the 44 mm of earlier executions, while maintaining a substantial 19.9 mm thickness dictated by the vertical construction of the movement, the prominent central bridge and the domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

The cushion-shaped case retains the brand’s signature twin crowns, positioned at 3 o’clock for winding and time-setting, and at 9 o’clock for quick adjustment of the local hour via an integrated push-button.

Alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces highlight the sculptural nature of the case, which is water resistant to 5 ATM (50 metres / 165 feet).

At the centre of the dial lies the defining element of the Klepcys concept: a tourbillon cage positioned vertically at a 90-degree angle.

This unconventional configuration, developed under the direction of Jean-François Mojon, is designed to improve chronometric stability by keeping the regulating organ in a vertical position for most of the time on the wrist, thereby mitigating the effects of gravity.

The steel cage, composed of 52 components and weighing just 0.706 grams, completes one full rotation every minute and also serves as a running seconds indicator, with five-second markers arranged around its perimeter.

The dial architecture is structured around a prominent arched bridge in rhodium-plated metal, with bevelled and polished edges. Inspired by self-supporting bridge constructions, it spans the centre of the display and frames the tourbillon, reinforcing the symmetry of the composition.

The layout is organised along a vertical axis, with time indications arranged through retrograde displays on either side.

Hours are indicated on the left through a jumping retrograde display, while minutes are shown on the right via a sweeping retrograde hand. In this Jasper edition, both arcs are enhanced by inserts in natural red jasper, a microcrystalline quartz appreciated for its dense patterns and warm tonal variations.

Each stone element is unique, introducing subtle differences from one piece to another.

The indications are framed by rhodium-plated outlines and marked with white Arabic numerals, ensuring clarity against the darker tones of the skeletonised structure.

A spherical power reserve indicator positioned at 12 o’clock completes the display. Measuring approximately 5 mm in diameter, it indicates the remaining autonomy of the movement, which extends beyond four days.

The Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Jasper is powered by the in-house manual-winding calibre CYR625, composed of 344 components and 51 jewels.

The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and is equipped with two parallel barrels delivering a power reserve of over 100 hours.

The architecture is designed around the vertical tourbillon, with the regulating organ positioned centrally and visible from both the dial and the case back.

Finishing reflects a combination of traditional and contemporary techniques, with NAC-treated bridges decorated with a curved sunray pattern, alternating polished and sandblasted surfaces, and carefully executed bevels. The ratchet wheels, treated in matte black lacquer and engraved with the Cyrus logo, add a contrasting visual element within the movement.

The watch is completed by a black alligator leather strap secured with a folding clasp in titanium.

The Cyrus Genève Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Jasper, reference 539.506.TT.SP.A, is produced in a limited series of five pieces and is priced at CHF 150,000 (excluding taxes). cyrus-watches.ch

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Alpina presents the new Startimer Pilot Automatic with four references

2026-04-24T09:12:00.000+02:00

The new Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic marks a comprehensive evolution of one of the brand’s most recognisable collections, revisiting its aviation roots through updated proportions, refined finishing and a renewed mechanical base.

Originally introduced in 2011, the Startimer line drew inspiration from Alpina’s early pilot’s watches of the 1920s and 1930s.

Founded in 1883, the brand became an official supplier of military timepieces for aviators at a time when precision, robustness and legibility were essential.

Large Arabic numerals, luminous displays, oversized crowns and practical straps defined these early instruments. Fifteen years after its return, the collection undergoes a complete redesign for 2026, both aesthetically and technically, while remaining anchored in this functional heritage.

The new generation is presented through four distinct versions, each sharing the same construction but offering different visual interpretations.

The collection includes two black dial models. The first adopts a more vintage-oriented approach with a black PVD-coated steel case, beige luminous elements and a brown leather NATO strap (ref. AL-525BW4SB36).

The second features a stainless steel case, lighter-toned luminous markers and a black Cordura textile strap with red stitching, giving it a sportier character (ref. AL-525BW4S36).

These are complemented by two additional models with dials in petrol blue (ref. AL-525NW4S36) and khaki (ref. AL-525KW4S36). Both are housed in stainless steel cases.

The petrol blue version is paired with a light brown leather strap, while the khaki version comes on a dark brown leather strap, both secured to the wrist with a steel pin buckle.

Across all versions, the redesigned case measures 40 mm in diameter and 10.14 mm in thickness, representing a reduction of nearly 10% compared to the previous generation.

Despite the more compact dimensions, the watch retains a strong presence on the wrist, supported by carefully executed finishing.

The bezel features a circular satin-brushed surface, while the case middle and lugs are vertically satin-brushed, contrasted by polished bevels along the edges.

The construction is completed by an aviation-style crown designed for ease of use, and water resistance is rated at 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

The dial has been entirely reworked to improve both readability and visual depth.

A grained, velvet-like central surface is framed by a stepped flange carrying a precise minute track, white or slightly yellowed depending on the version.

Applied Arabic numerals and indexes are formed from solid blocks of luminous material, accompanied by silver-toned hour and minute hands with luminous inserts and a seconds hand distinguished by a red triangular tip.

A date aperture is positioned at 6 o’clock.

Luminous tones vary across the collection, ranging from beige “old radium” to blue-green and green, reinforcing the individuality of each reference while ensuring enhanced legibility in low-light conditions.

Powering all four models is the automatic calibre AL-525, based on a La Joux-Perret movement.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it comprises 198 components and 24 jewels, with a thickness of 4.45 mm and a diameter of 25.6 mm.

The movement delivers an extended power reserve of approximately 68 hours, reflecting the emphasis on reliability traditionally associated with aviation timepieces.

It is housed behind a solid screw-down caseback decorated with a stamped aviation motif inspired by early pilot instruments, rendered in an Art Deco style that recalls the period when Alpina first established its presence in this field.

With the new Startimer Pilot Automatic collection, Alpina presents a refined update of an important model, combining revised proportions, careful finishing and an automatic movement with extended power reserve, while prices ranging from €1,295 to €1,395 remain notably competitive for this level of execution. alpinawatches.com

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IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 IW338902 introduces coloured ceramic to the line

2026-04-23T12:19:00.001+02:00

Drawing on decades of expertise in ceramic, IWC introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 42 IW338902, marking the first coloured ceramic execution of the Gérald Genta-derived design.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, this new reference in dark olive green zirconium oxide highlights the brand’s continued refinement of one of the most technically demanding materials in watchmaking.

IWC’s work with ceramic dates back to 1986, when it introduced its first wristwatch featuring a case in black zirconium oxide. Since then, the brand has steadily developed its expertise, both in terms of engineering and finishing.

Following last year’s introduction of the Ingenieur in black ceramic, this new execution extends the concept into coloured ceramic, with the case ring, bezel, case back ring and crown protection all crafted in dark olive green ceramic.

Produced by mixing zirconium oxide with metallic oxides in precisely defined ratios, coloured ceramic remains challenging to control, as the final shade evolves during the sintering process, making uniformity across components particularly complex.

The integrated ceramic bracelet is attached to the case ring via its middle links, ensuring an ergonomic fit on the wrist. Lighter than steel, it also contributes to overall wearing comfort.

The “Grid”-patterned dial matches the green hue of the ceramic elements, while golden accents provide contrast: the crown is crafted from 18-carat 5N gold, the bezel screws from 18-carat Armor Gold, and the hands and appliqués are gold-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova.

The Ingenieur Automatic 42 IW338902 features a 42 mm case with a height of 11.5 mm, executed in ceramic using a multi-part construction.

As ceramic components shrink by around one-third during sintering, this must be anticipated at the design stage.

To preserve the proportions of the original design, IWC uses a construction that eliminates the need for a conventional movement container. Instead, a thin titanium ring secures the movement, holds the functional screws from both sides and contributes to a water resistance of 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

The sapphire crystals, antireflective on both sides, and the gaskets are fitted directly into the case and case back ring.

With a hardness of around 1300 Vickers, ceramic can only be machined after sintering using diamond tools. On this model, IWC combines satin-finishing, sandblasting and polishing: the case and bracelet are satin-finished, their edges are polished, and a fine sandblasted surface completes the overall appearance.

The transparent caseback reveals the IWC-manufactured 82110 calibre, a 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) automatic movement equipped with a Pellaton winding system.

This mechanism converts the oscillating mass’s movements in both directions into energy for the mainspring, delivering a power reserve of 60 hours.

Components of the winding system subject to high stress are made from virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic.

The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark olive green ceramic, ref. IW338902, is priced at €23,900 (incl. VAT) / US$23,800 (excl. sales taxes). iwc.com

Oris Star Edition revisits the model that marked a new beginning

2026-04-22T15:44:00.005+02:00

The new Oris Star Edition marks the 60th anniversary of a pivotal moment in the brand’s history, when it introduced its first watch equipped with a lever escapement.

More than a simple revival, the model reflects a turning point reached in 1965, when Oris secured the freedom to develop its own mechanical movements after decades of regulatory constraints.

For much of the mid-20th century, the Swiss watch industry operated under the Swiss Watch Statute, introduced in the 1930s to stabilise the sector during the economic turmoil of the Great Depression.

While effective in limiting destructive competition, the law also restricted innovation, preventing certain manufacturers from producing lever escapement movements. Oris was among the companies affected, confined to less precise pin-lever calibres.

A decisive shift came through the efforts of Rolf Portmann, who joined Oris in 1956 and led a decade-long legal battle against the so-called “watch cartel”. In 1965, these restrictions were lifted, allowing the brand to pursue mechanical development freely.

A vintage print advertisement for the Oris Star, circa 1960s

The following year, Oris introduced the original Star, its first watch with a lever escapement movement, making it the first model to emerge from this newly regained independence.

The Star Edition revisits that 1966 watch with a design that remains closely aligned with the original. The stainless steel case measures 35 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 11.10 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 41.50 mm.

Its barrel-shaped profile, with lugs integrated into the case, reflects the modernist aesthetic that emerged during the 1960s, when traditional round gold watches began to give way to more experimental forms.

The dial follows the same restrained approach. Finished in silver, it features applied baton hour markers and square-tipped hands, both filled with Super-LumiNova to ensure legibility.

Period-correct details include the “Star”, “Automatic” and “26 Jewels” inscriptions, along with an asymmetrical date window positioned at 3 o’clock.

A plexi-crystal reinforces the vintage character, while the overall layout remains clean and balanced.

Inside the case is the Oris Calibre 733 (base Sellita SW 200-1), a 4 Hz self-winding movement delivering a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.

It drives central hours, minutes and seconds, along with an instantaneous date function and a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting.

The case back, secured by screws, is engraved with the historic Oris Shield crest, further linking the watch to its origins.

Water resistance is rated at 5 bar (50 metres / 166 feet), and the watch is fitted with a black leather strap secured by a pin buckle.

The overall construction reflects a pragmatic approach consistent with the brand’s history, combining everyday usability with a design rooted in a specific period.

Introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the Oris Star Edition (ref. 01 733 7813 4151-Set) is not a limited series and will be available from May at the suggested retail price of CHF 1,800 / €1,800 / US$2,300. oris.ch

Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

2026-04-22T08:03:00.003+02:00

The Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition combines two of the most demanding areas of watchmaking—resonance and chiming—within a newly developed mechanical architecture.

Housed in a 42 mm titanium case with a thickness of 11.70 mm, the watch adopts more compact proportions than previous high-complication pieces from the brand while accommodating a substantial increase in mechanical complexity.

The case is fitted with sapphire crystals on both sides with anti-reflective treatment and offers water resistance to 3 ATM.

This development builds on the concept first explored with the Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Resonance, now reinterpreted through a more refined structure and a different distribution of components.

While remaining fully openworked, the composition has been simplified, with a centralised display reinforcing visual balance and placing emphasis on the essential elements of the mechanism.

At the centre of the watch is the new manual-winding manufacture calibre ARR25, developed and produced in-house.

Measuring 34.40 mm in diameter and 6.53 mm in thickness, the movement comprises 506 components and operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour), delivering a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The calibre is built around Armin Strom’s patented resonance clutch, which synchronises two independent regulating systems.

Each system is equipped with its own barrel, gear train, escapement and balance wheel, allowing them to operate in harmonic resonance.

This dual architecture significantly increases the complexity of the movement compared to a conventional repeater.

The striking mechanism has been developed accordingly and is equipped with four hammers and four gongs, enabling a full Westminster chiming sequence.

A flying governor, positioned on the dial side beneath the hammers, regulates the cadence of the strike and provides a visual indication during operation.

A further layer of functionality is introduced through two selectable striking modes. In standard operation, the repeater chimes the time indicated by the hands.

Alternatively, the wearer can activate the “12:59” sequence, which produces the longest possible strike of the mechanism—twelve hours, three quarters and fourteen minutes (you can listen to it in this Instagram reel).

The transition between these modes is controlled by a column wheel system, with a discreet indicator displaying the selected function.

Activation is performed via a slider at 9 o’clock, which both winds and releases the striking mechanism.

The dial layout reflects a focus on mechanical clarity.

The twin balance wheels remain positioned on the dial side, while the resonance clutch has been reoriented to animate upwards, making the interaction between the two oscillators more visible.

The four hammers and gongs are arranged prominently, contributing to a composition that emphasises both symmetry and depth without unnecessary elements.

Finishing is entirely executed by hand and extends across the full movement.

On the dial side, mirror-polished hammers, gongs and resonance components contrast with the frosted mainplate and bridges, while hand-bevelled edges and polished sinks define the geometry of the movement.

The flying governor combines circular graining, bevelled edges and matte engraved surfaces, acting as both a functional and visual focal point.

On the reverse, traditional decorations including Geneva stripes, straight and circular graining are combined with contemporary textures, creating a layered and highly detailed composition.

The watch is completed by an anthracite titanium dial ring, hand-finished steel hands and a matte grey alligator strap secured with a titanium pin buckle.

Produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition (ref. M26-RMR.5N) is priced at CHF 390,000. arminstrom.com

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Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 with Brunito case and eight-day power reserve

2026-04-21T13:47:00.002+02:00

The new Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 revisits one of the brand’s most recognisable configurations, combining heritage-inspired design with a contemporary execution centred on material treatment and long power reserve.

The model draws directly from the Luminor watches developed in the 1960s for professional use, translating their defining elements into a more wearable 44 mm case while preserving the characteristic cushion shape, integrated lugs and the signature crown-protecting bridge patented in the mid-1950s.

The proportions have been carefully reworked to retain the visual balance of the original 47 mm references.

A defining element of this edition is the Brunito finish applied to the steel case.

Developed to evoke the natural ageing of metal equipment exposed to repeated use, the treatment begins with a black PVD coating that is subsequently reduced through manual brushing.

This process creates controlled variations across the surface, particularly along edges and corners, resulting in a finish that recalls the patina of vintage instruments.

Each case is therefore slightly different, reflecting the hand-executed nature of the process.

The 44 mm case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal recalling the plexiglass used in early Panerai dive watches, enhancing both legibility and depth.

Water resistance is rated at 30 bar (approximately 300 metres / 1,000 feet).

The sapphire caseback reveals the hand-wound manufacture calibre P.5000.

This movement delivers an eight-day power reserve (192 hours) through a twin-barrel construction, operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz).

Its architecture is deliberately simple and robust, with most components held between a main plate and a large bridge, leaving only the balance and part of the gear train visible.

A stop-seconds function allows precise time-setting by halting the balance when the crown is pulled.

The emphasis on extended autonomy reflects a historical approach within Panerai, where reducing the frequency of winding contributed to preserving the crown system and maintaining water resistance under demanding conditions.

This principle, already present in mid-20th century military-issued watches, remains central to the identity of the Luminor 8 Giorni. Learn more about the history of the Panerai Luminor in this feature article.

The dial is presented in anthracite with a circular brushed finish achieved through a manual rotational technique, creating subtle variations in light reflection.

The sandwich construction ensures depth and clarity, with beige Super-LumiNova applied to the Arabic numerals, hour markers and vintage-inspired double pencil hands.

A small seconds display is positioned at 9 o’clock, while the “8 Giorni” inscription at 6 o’clock highlights the extended power reserve.

The watch is fitted with a light brown calf leather strap with beige stitching and a trapezoidal Brunito steel buckle, and is delivered with an additional black rubber strap for more functional use.

First unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 will be available as a preview in Italy from 21 to 26 April 2026 during the Salone del Mobile Milano 2026, where Panerai confirms its role as Official Timekeeper for the fourth consecutive year.

For the occasion, the brand will reopen its pop-up store at Rho Fiera, offering visitors the opportunity to discover the new model alongside a selection of its core collections.

The Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 is priced at €11,000 / US$11,300. panerai.com

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Hublot Big Bang Reloaded 2026, a new expression of the Big Bang concept

2026-04-20T17:24:00.002+02:00

Presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the new Hublot Big Bang Reloaded collection marks a further evolution of the openworked Big Bang Unico, with a stronger emphasis on the visibility of its manufacture chronograph movement and a renewed focus on materials.

At the centre of the collection is the HUB 1280 Unico calibre, a fully integrated self-winding flyback chronograph operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

Comprising 354 components and 43 jewels, it incorporates a series of patented solutions, including a backlash-compensating oscillating clutch and an anti-shaking system for the chronograph seconds hand.

In this latest iteration, the movement is more exposed, with the column wheel highlighted at 6 o’clock and the dual clutch at 8 o’clock, while the chronograph counter at 3 o’clock has been redesigned and the date repositioned between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The openworked rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, features a cut-out “H” motif.

All models share the same 44 mm case architecture, with a thickness of 14.5 mm and water resistance to 100 metres.

The case construction has been refined with a two-part bezel that enhances contrasts between materials and finishes, while the multilayer dial adds depth and reinforces the technical character of the watch.

Each version is delivered with two interchangeable straps – a fabric-textured rubber strap and a classic structured rubber strap – both fitted with a deployant clasp and compatible with the One Click system.

The Big Bang Reloaded Titanium Ceramic (ref. 421.NM.1123.NR.RLD) combines a satin-finished and polished titanium case with a black ceramic caseback and upper bezel.

The skeleton dial features grey tones that highlight the architecture of the movement, while the oscillating weight in tungsten is finished in black plating.

This version emphasises lightness and contrast, in line with Hublot’s use of technical materials.

The Big Bang Reloaded All Black (ref. 421.CX.1140.NR.RLD) revisits the monochromatic concept first introduced by Hublot in 2006.

Crafted entirely in black ceramic with black-plated elements, it features a skeleton dial treated in matching tones, reducing legibility in favour of a uniform aesthetic.

The case and bezel combine polished and satin finishes, reinforcing the visual depth despite the absence of colour contrast.

The Big Bang Reloaded Blue Ceramic (ref. 421.EX.5129.NR.RLD) showcases the brand’s expertise in coloured ceramics.

The case is executed in satin-finished and polished blue ceramic, paired with a titanium bezel and matching blue accents on the strap.

The grey-toned skeleton dial maintains legibility while allowing the movement components to remain clearly visible, with an anthracite-treated rotor visible through the caseback.

The Big Bang Reloaded Dark Green Ceramic (ref. 421.GM.1149.NR.RLD) offers a more subdued interpretation, with a dark green ceramic case combined with black-plated titanium elements.

The skeleton dial is finished in black tones, maintaining coherence with the overall colour scheme, while the green accents on the strap provide a subtle contrast.

As with the other ceramic versions, the material offers enhanced hardness compared to traditional ceramic.

The Big Bang Reloaded Magic Gold (ref. 421.MX.1133.NR.RLD) highlights one of Hublot’s most distinctive proprietary materials.

The case and upper bezel are crafted in 18K Magic Gold, an alloy developed to provide exceptional scratch resistance while retaining the characteristics of gold.

Its slightly bronzed tone contrasts with the black-plated titanium elements and the openworked dial, reinforcing the technical and aesthetic identity of the model.

The Big Bang Reloaded collection is priced according to material. The Titanium Ceramic version is offered at €23,500 / US$24,000 / CHF 19,900. The All Black, Blue Ceramic and Dark Green Ceramic models are each priced at €24,700 / US$25,200 / CHF 20,900. The Magic Gold version is positioned at €43,600 / US$44,500 / CHF 36,900. hublot.com

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Piaget Polo Signature 2026: The return of the gadroon icon

2026-04-20T11:39:00.003+02:00

Presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the new Piaget Polo Signature marks a further evolution of one of Piaget’s most recognisable designs, placing renewed emphasis on one of its defining aesthetic elements: the gadroon.

More than a decorative motif, these horizontal ridges have been central to the identity of the original Piaget Polo since its introduction in 1979, when the Maison proposed a fully gold watch conceived as an integrated bracelet rather than a conventional case-and-strap construction.

With the 2026 collection, this signature detail is extended across the broader Polo range, including the Polo Date models and a new pair of timepieces conceived as a contemporary “couple’s watch”.

The approach remains consistent with Piaget’s design language, combining refined finishing with a distinctive interplay of volumes, while maintaining the characteristic cushion-shaped dial set within a round case.

The visual update is immediately evident on the dials, where the gadroons are now rendered with greater depth through an appliqué-style construction.

This technique enhances the relief of the surface, creating a more pronounced play of light, particularly on the new blue dials that define much of the collection.

Roman numerals are absent here, replaced by a more streamlined display that aligns with the Polo’s sport-chic positioning, while maintaining a strong sense of identity through texture and proportion.

The collection is structured around two main case sizes, 42 mm and 36 mm, complemented by a silver-dial duo that revisits the idea of coordinated watches.

The larger models, measuring 42 mm in diameter and 9.4 mm in thickness, are powered by the self-winding manufacture calibre 1110P.

Operating with automatic winding and offering a balanced profile suited to daily wear, this movement drives hours, minutes and, in the Polo Date versions, a date indication, while maintaining water resistance to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

These models are available in stainless steel or 18K pink gold, with options including a steel version on a rubber strap or metal bracelet, as well as gold and gem-set variations.

Interchangeability is ensured by Piaget’s strap system, allowing the wearer to alternate between metal bracelet and rubber strap configurations.

The 36 mm versions adopt slightly more compact proportions, with a case thickness of 8.8 mm and water resistance rated at 5 bar.

They are powered by the self-winding calibre 500P1, a movement developed to preserve the slim profile while ensuring reliable everyday performance.

These models are offered primarily with gem-set details, including diamond-set bezels and indexes.

Here too, the gadroons structure the dial, whether in blue or silver tones, providing continuity across the collection.

Completing the range, the silver-dial duo introduces a more understated aesthetic while maintaining the same design principles.

The 42 mm version, housed in a steel case and fitted with a khaki green rubber strap, is driven by the calibre 1110P and retains the same 10 bar water resistance, while the 36 mm counterpart combines a steel case with a diamond-set bezel and is powered by the calibre 500P1.

Alongside these time-and-date models, Piaget presents a series of Polo Signature Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin interpretations that expand the collection into more complex territory while preserving its refined proportions.

These watches are housed in 42 mm cases with a thickness of 8.65 mm and are powered by the Manufacture calibre 1255P, an ultra-thin self-winding movement combining hours, minutes and moon phases with a perpetual calendar mechanism.

Blue dial versions are available in stainless steel with a matching bracelet or in rose gold paired with a blue rubber strap, offering two distinct interpretations of the same technical base.

Water resistance is rated at 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet), consistent with the slim construction.

Through this expanded Polo Signature collection, Piaget reinforces the role of gadroons as a unifying element, linking past and present.

First introduced at the end of the 1970s as part of a watch that challenged established conventions, they continue to define the character of the Polo, now adapted to contemporary expectations in terms of versatility, ergonomics and finishing.

Prices for the collection start at €13,800 for the 42 mm versions in stainless steel with rubber strap. piaget.com

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