Time and Watches

Introducing the Glashütte Original 70s: 1970s aesthetics meet modern performance

2026-09-16T12:05:27.582+02:00

Glashütte Original has introduced the 70s, a new line within its vintage collection inspired by the design language and rituals of analogue technology.

The collection combines a 1970s-inspired aesthetic with the brand’s contemporary mechanical watchmaking, initially comprising three models: Vinyl Record, Tweed Amp, and Stereo Panel.

The three watches share a 39 mm square stainless steel case with softly rounded edges, integrated lugs, and a height of 9.6 mm.

The case combines satin-brushed and polished surfaces, while sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating on both sides are used on the front and case back.

The overall dimensions, including a 43.7 mm lug-to-lug measurement, ensure the square silhouette wears comfortably and relatively compact on the wrist.

Water resistance is rated at 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

Each model features a finely embossed “hexagrid” dial structure, designed to create variations in light and depth across the surface.

Obelisk-shaped hour and minute hands are paired with a central seconds hand, while a date display is positioned at 3 o’clock.

The chapter ring sits on a thin réhaut, adding another layer to the dial construction.

The Vinyl Record takes its visual cues from the matte black surface of an LP.

Its black galvanic dial features a brushed, embossed finish, complemented by rhodium-plated solid gold bar indexes and burnished white gold hour and minute hands, all treated with Super-LumiNova.

It is the only limited edition in the initial release, capped at 500 pieces, and comes supplied with both a stainless steel bracelet and a black rubber strap.

The Stereo Panel draws inspiration from the control panels of 1970s hi-fi equipment, pairing a silver galvanic dial with a matching brushed, embossed surface.

Black-coated solid gold indexes and hands give the watch a sharp, monochrome appearance, with Super-LumiNova applied to the hands and hour markers.

The Tweed Amp features a brown galvanic dial with a brushed, embossed texture inspired by the woven fabric covers of vintage amplifier cabinets.

Its bar indexes and burnished hour and minute hands are crafted from 5N solid gold, creating a warm contrast against the stainless steel case.

Unlike the Vinyl Record set, the Stereo Panel and Tweed Amp are offered individually with a choice between a satin-finished stainless steel bracelet or a calfskin-lined rubber strap.

All strap and bracelet options feature Glashütte Original’s new patented Groove Lock System, making its debut in the 70s collection for completely tool-free strap changes.

On the rubber versions, the integrated end link releases easily from the underside, allowing both the strap and its folding clasp to be swapped or reused across compatible options.

The stainless steel bracelet incorporates this tool-free connection directly into its end links for quick click-on release.

It also features a fine-adjustment double-fold clasp that allows the bracelet length to be adjusted by up to 3 mm in either direction.

The rubber strap utilizes a similarly tool-free folding clasp, anchored securely via a recessed push-button and extendable locking rods.

Inside, the Tweed Amp and Stereo Panel are powered by Glashütte Original’s automatic Calibre 36-11, while the limited-edition Vinyl Record uses Calibre 36-10.

Both movements share the same technical architecture and operate at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), with a power reserve of up to 100 hours and 27 jewels. Their silicon hairsprings are designed to provide resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations, while the balances incorporate solid gold adjustment screws and a swan-neck spring.

The difference between the two calibres is primarily in their finishing. Calibre 36-11 is rhodium-plated, whereas the Calibre 36-10 used in the Vinyl Record is finished in black rhodium to complement its monochrome dial.

Both movements can be viewed through the sapphire case back and feature the traditional Glashütte three-quarter plate with ribbed finishing.

The balance cock is hand-engraved, while the winding train and individual components receive additional finishing, including bevelled and polished edges, polished steel parts, and blued screws.

The automatic winding system is fitted with a 21-karat gold oscillating weight carrying Glashütte Original’s skeletonised double-G logo.

Together with the transparent case back, this provides a clear view of the movement architecture while retaining the mechanical character that defines the collection.

The Glashütte Original 70s collection is available from September 2026 through Glashütte Original boutiques and authorised retail partners worldwide.

The black-dialled Vinyl Record (Ref. 1-36-10-04-02-86) is limited to 500 pieces and has an indicative retail price of €16,500 (prices may vary depending on local taxes and duties), supplied with both a stainless steel bracelet and a black rubber strap.

The silver-dialled Stereo Panel is available as Ref. 1-36-11-01-02-66 with a black rubber strap for €13,300, or Ref. 1-36-11-01-02-71 with a stainless steel bracelet for €14,500.

The brown-dialled Tweed Amp follows identical pricing: Ref. 1-36-11-03-02-66 on a sand-coloured rubber strap at €13,300, and Ref. 1-36-11-03-02-71 on a stainless steel bracelet at €14,500. glashuette-original.com

Rolex Perpetual Padellone brings an instantaneous complete calendar to the collection

2026-09-15T20:14:29.723+02:00

Rolex has added a new complete annual calendar to its Perpetual collection with the Perpetual Padellone, a 39 mm watch combining instantaneous calendar indications with a moon-phase display.

The name Padellone refers to Rolex Reference 8171, a rare model produced between 1949 and 1952. One of only two vintage Rolex references combining a complete calendar with a moon-phase display, it measured 38 mm and featured a non-Oyster case with a snap-on back.

Its large proportions, for its time, led Italian collectors to nickname it “Padellone”, meaning “large frying pan” in Italian.

A Rolex Padellone from the 1940s

The new model displays the hours, minutes and seconds alongside the date, day, month and moon phase. Its calendar mechanism distinguishes between 30-day and 31-day months, while the date, day and month change simultaneously at midnight.

The system therefore requires adjustment only once a year, at the end of February.

The dial combines a grained finish across most of its surface with a fine satin finish around the periphery.

A blue-coated central date hand terminates in a crescent moon and points to the date scale around the edge of the dial.

Day and month are shown through two apertures at 12 o’clock, while the moon-phase display occupies 6 o’clock. Its blue enamelled disc completes one rotation every 29.53 days.

The full and new moons are represented by meteorite, with the new moon receiving a dark blue PVD coating, while the stars are pad printed in silver.

The 39 mm case is available in 18 ct Everose gold or 950 platinum and measures 12.20 mm thick.

Its domed and subtly fluted bezel surrounds a domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating, while the screw-down case back incorporates sapphire and receives anti-reflective treatment.

Water resistance is rated to 50 metres. Correctors integrated into the case provide access to the calendar functions, with the month at 2 o’clock, date at 4 o’clock, moon phase at 8 o’clock and day at 10 o’clock.

The Everose gold version is offered in two configurations.

Reference M53505-0002 pairs the intense white grained dial with a matt brown alligator leather strap, while reference M53505-0003 combines the same case and dial with Rolex’s Settimo bracelet.

The platinum version, reference M53506-0002, features an ice-blue grained dial with a matt black alligator leather strap.

The Settimo bracelet uses seven small, slightly contoured elements per link and is fitted with a concealed Crownclasp, while the alligator straps feature a green calfskin lining, tone-on-tone stitching and a Dualclasp double-folding clasp.

At the centre of the watch is calibre 7190, an automatic movement developed and manufactured by Rolex and exclusive to the Perpetual Padellone.

It operates at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and provides approximately 66 hours of power reserve.

The calendar mechanism introduces the new Haplos system, consisting of an additional carrier finger and an annual lever added to the instantaneous date mechanism.

The programming that distinguishes between 30-day and 31-day months is incorporated into the reverse side of the month disc, allowing the annual lever to respond to the current month. This enables the date, day and month to change instantaneously at midnight.

Calibre 7190 also incorporates Rolex’s Dynapulse escapement, a silicon sequential-distribution system designed for energy efficiency and resistance to strong magnetic fields.

The movement uses a Syloxi silicon hairspring, with thicker coils in this calibre to provide the rigidity required for its 5 Hz operating frequency.

Its oscillator combines a ceramic balance staff with an optimised brass balance wheel and Paraflex shock absorbers, while regulation is handled by two gold Microstella nuts. The movement contains 35 jewels.

The transparent case back also reveals the movement’s finishing, including the Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and the cut-out yellow-gold oscillating weight.

The decoration differs from traditional Côtes de Genève through the polished groove separating each band.

The Perpetual Padellone carries Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification. Since 2026, the certification has incorporated additional criteria covering resistance to magnetism, reliability and sustainability alongside the existing requirements for precision, waterproofness, self-winding and autonomy.

After casing, the finished watch must meet Rolex’s stated precision range of −2/+2 seconds per day. Each watch is supplied with an international five-year guarantee.

The Rolex Perpetual Padellone Reference M53505-0002 in 18 ct Everose gold with a matt brown alligator leather strap is priced at €58,300. Reference M53505-0003 featuring the Settimo bracelet is priced at €71,900.

The platinum reference M53506-0002 with matt black alligator leather strap retails at €65,500. rolex.com

IWC introduces two Ingenieur Automatic Editions for the Ingenieur SL’s 50th anniversary

2026-09-15T14:08:06.636+02:00

Fifty years after the introduction of the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832, IWC Schaffhausen marks the anniversary of Gérald Genta’s influential design with two limited editions of the modern Ingenieur Automatic.

The Ingenieur Automatic 40 50th Anniversary (ref. IW328910) and Ingenieur Automatic 35 50th Anniversary (ref. IW324909) reinterpret the design in stainless steel, distinguished by brushed silver-plated dials inspired by a rare variant of the original 1970s model.

Introduced in 1976, the Ingenieur SL was the successor to the first generation of Ingenieur watches and was designed by Gérald Genta during a period when integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches were emerging as a new category within Swiss watchmaking. Despite its distinctive design, Reference 1832 was not a commercial success at launch.

Only 598 examples were produced between 1976 and 1983, and the model was rediscovered by collectors decades later, eventually becoming one of the most sought-after watches in IWC’s history.

The original Ingenieur SL is characterised by its integrated bracelet, structured grid dial and bezel secured by five functional screws.

These elements were carried over into the modern Ingenieur introduced in 2023, which retains the defining visual language of the 1970s model while revisiting its ergonomics, wearability and finishing.

The anniversary editions use the less familiar silver-plated brushed dial, complemented by rhodium-plated hands and applied metal hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova.

The dial logo has also been subtly modified, replacing the characteristic lightning bolt normally positioned below the “Ingenieur” name with the number “50”.

Both watches retain the characteristic Ingenieur bezel, secured to the case by five screws and combining a satin-finished surface with polished edges.

Their stainless steel cases and integrated bracelets attached through their middle links and fitted with butterfly folding clasps. Satin finishing and polishing are used throughout the construction.

The bracelet of the 40 mm model is entirely satin-finished, while the middle links of the 35 mm version are polished.

The Ingenieur Automatic 40 50th Anniversary measures 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm in height.

It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 32111 automatic calibre, which operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and uses 21 jewels. Its double-pawl winding system provides a power reserve of 120 hours.

The movement incorporates a soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields, continuing a technical feature associated with the original Ingenieur SL.

The watch has a screw-in crown and a date display, while the central seconds hand can be stopped for precise time setting. A convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides protects the dial, and water resistance is rated to 10 bar (100 metres / 0 feet).

The smaller Ingenieur Automatic 35 50th Anniversary measures 35 mm in diameter and 9.4 mm in height.

It is equipped with the IWC calibre 47110, an automatic movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), with 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve.

Unlike the 40 mm model, the 35 mm version features a see-through sapphire case back, through which the movement can be viewed.

The calibre is decorated with circular graining and Geneva stripes and features a gold-plated oscillating weight. The watch also has a date display, central hacking seconds and a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, while water resistance is rated to 10 bar.

The two anniversary editions are each limited to 1,150 pieces. They form part of the broader Ingenieur collection that IWC has developed since the model’s return in 2023, which now encompasses different case sizes, dial colours and materials, including stainless steel, titanium, 18-karat 5N gold, black ceramic and coloured ceramic. The collection has also expanded to include complications such as a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon.

The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 50th Anniversary (ref. IW328910) is priced at €14,900, while the Ingenieur Automatic 35 50th Anniversary (ref. IW324909) is priced at €13,000. iwc.com

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve 2026: the 84 nominated timepieces

2026-09-15T08:06:14.752+02:00

The 26th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the competition that annually rewards the most remarkable contemporary creations and promotes the art of watchmaking worldwide, will take place on Saturday, November 7, 2026, at the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva.

The event will be broadcast live on gphg.org and also streamed by Time and Watches as a media partner.

Ahead of the ceremony, the nominated watches will be exhibited in Mumbai, Bangkok and Geneva, before travelling to London where the winning models will be presented after the prize list has been announced.

Last year, the “Aiguille d’Or” was awarded to the Breguet Classique Souscription. We presented this and the other prize winners of the 2025 edition in our dedicated article.

The GPHG Foundation has now published the list of 84 pre-selected timepieces, nominated by the Academy, competing to win one of the 19 prizes in 2026. Only products commercialised after May 2025 and by the end of October 2026 are eligible to participate.

Below is the list of the 84 nominated timepieces for the GPHG 2026, categorised into 14 groups.

Review: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture

2026-09-14T12:56:31.935+02:00

When Frederique Constant introduced the Highlife collection in 1999, it established a distinctive case architecture defined by an integrated strap attachment and hornless geometry. Rather than using conventional lugs, the case lines transition directly into the bracelet or strap.

Reintroduced in 2020, this design language has since provided the foundation for various in-house complications within the Maison’s collection, including worldtimer, chronograph and perpetual calendar models.

Unveiled at the beginning of September, the new Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture extends the collection with a new combination of date and moon-phase indications.

It is available in two 39 mm references: a deep blue dial version (ref. FC-716BL3NH6) and a rosé champagne dial version (ref. FC-716RG3NH6).

In this hands-on review, we look at both models, focusing on the execution of their dial complications, case ergonomics and the updated in-house FC-716 movement.

The three-part stainless steel case measures 39 mm in diameter and 12.82 mm in thickness. Its finishing alternates between polished and satin-brushed surfaces, accentuating the case’s flowing lines and integrated construction.

A convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial, helping to minimise reflections under direct light.

At the back, an engraved, see-through threaded case back provides a view of the movement.

Water resistance is rated to 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet), adding to the watch’s versatility and suitability for everyday wear.

Thanks to its compact dimensions and hornless design, the watch sits comfortably and evenly on the wrist. For reference, the wrist shown in our hands-on photographs measures 17.8 cm (7 inches) in circumference.

The integrated strap system incorporates a tool-free quick-change mechanism using push-pins on the underside of the end-links.

Applying slight inward pressure to these pushers releases the strap from the case without the need for spring-bar tools, tape or technical assistance.

Each watch is supplied as a complete set with two options: a five-link stainless steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished finishes and a folding clasp, and a deep blue Saffiano calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a matching folding buckle.

The leather strap gives the watch a more dress-oriented appearance.

Its signature crosshatch grain adds texture while retaining a balance between elegant and sporty elements, and its protective finish provides resistance to scratches, light and moisture.

Both dial executions feature an asymmetrical sunray finish that originates directly from the centre of the 6 o’clock sub-dial rather than from the central cannon pinion.

This treatment gives greater visual emphasis to the moon-phase display and distinguishes the two overlapping dial surfaces.

The deep blue dial version (ref. FC-716BL3NH6) uses a midnight blue main surface rendered in a slightly lighter shade than that of the moon phase sub-dial, maintaining clear separation between the two displays.

The minute track is printed in white to complement the luminescent indexes, while the date ring around the 6 o’clock sub-dial features a red-printed “31” marking the end of the monthly cycle.

The rosé champagne dial version (ref. FC-716RG3NH6) uses warm solar tones that shift between gold and copper depending on the light, providing visual separation from the blue moon-phase disc.

The minute track around the outer perimeter is printed in black for legibility.

Applied silver-coloured indexes are faceted and polished, with white Super-LumiNova filling, and are paired with luminescent hour and minute hands and a central sweep seconds hand.

The moon-phase display at 6 o’clock features a photorealistic depiction of the lunar surface, micro-printed in grey tones to reproduce craters and other surface details against a starry background.

Surrounding the moon-phase aperture is a pointer date indicated by a slim, polished hand.

The date mechanism also controls the progression of the moon-phase display through its 29.5-day cycle, keeping the two indications synchronised.

Both functions are set through the winding crown, eliminating the need for external correction pushers on the case middle.

Powering both references is the new in-house FC-716 calibre, designed, produced and assembled at the Frederique Constant manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva.

Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and equipped with 26 jewels, the self-winding movement represents a structural evolution of the brand’s core FC-700 series.

The main technical improvement concerns power delivery. The FC-716 uses a newly designed mainspring barrel combined with a high-performance spring alloy to provide a continuous 72-hour (3-day) power reserve.

In practical terms, this allows the wearer to remove the watch on Friday evening and find it still running on Monday morning without requiring manual winding or a reset.

Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement combines its open architecture with traditional Haute Horlogerie decorative techniques.

The mainplate is finished with delicate perlage, providing a circular-grained foundation for the components above. The bridges feature fan-shaped Côtes de Genève striping radiating outward from the balance wheel, creating changing reflections as the watch moves.

An openworked, gold-plated rotor frames the assembly, complemented by blued screws and laser engravings detailing the calibre’s technical specifications.

Priced at €4,495 in either dial configuration and supplied with a five-year manufacture warranty, the Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture brings together the established Highlife case architecture with a genuinely manufacture-developed movement, a three-day power reserve and two useful calendar indications in a compact 39 mm format.

The combination makes the Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture a particularly versatile proposition within the collection. Its integrated case and quick-change system give it the practicality expected of a modern everyday watch, while the detailed dials, moon-phase display and movement finishing add a more traditional horological dimension.

It offers a considered balance between everyday usability and manufacture watchmaking, without moving too far from the accessible positioning that has long defined Frederique Constant. frederiqueconstant.com

Hamilton gives the Khaki Field Murph 38 mm a deep blue dial

2026-09-13T07:39:11.905+02:00

Hamilton’s Khaki Field Murph has its origins on the screen. Created for Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar, the watch became part of the film’s central relationship between Cooper and his daughter Murph, linking them across time and space.

What began as a watch designed for a cinematic story later evolved into a permanent Hamilton collection. The original model measured 42 mm, before the more compact 38 mm version joined the collection and became a particularly recognisable expression of the Murph.

For 2026, Hamilton gives the 38 mm Murph a new interpretation with a deep blue dial inspired by the appearance of an interstellar comet.

A luminous blue centre gradually fades towards black at the periphery, recalling the glow of ionised gases illuminated by sunlight and the darkness of deep space.

A pronounced grained texture evokes stardust and creates subtle variations in the way the dial catches the light.

The new Murph retains the visual elements that have defined the collection, including cathedral-style hands, slightly domed numerals and the restrained field-watch layout.

The 38 mm stainless steel case measures 11.1 mm thick and is topped by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance is rated to 100 metres / 330 feet.

Inside, the watch is powered by Hamilton’s automatic H-10 movement, which operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and provides an 80-hour power reserve.

The new blue-dial execution is available either on a stainless steel bracelet or on a black leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle.

The bracelet version, reference H70405140, is priced at €995 / US$995, while the leather-strap version, reference H70405740, is priced at €1,045 / US$1,075. hamiltonwatch.com

In pictures: Hublot Big Bang Reloaded

2026-09-12T12:02:38.407+02:00

Introduced in 2005, the Big Bang has become one of Hublot’s defining watches and a platform for the brand’s continuing experimentation with materials.

Ceramic has played a particularly important role in that story. Beyond improving hardness and scratch resistance, Hublot has developed the material in an increasingly broad range of colours, while also exploring composites, sapphire and other unconventional materials.

Presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the Big Bang Reloaded continues this material-focused approach while revisiting the openworked architecture of the Big Bang Unico.

The new collection places greater emphasis on the visibility of its manufacture chronograph movement and on the materials used for the case and other components.

We recently had the opportunity to photograph two Big Bang Reloaded models at Pisa 1940’s flagship store in Milan: the All Black and Blue Ceramic.

The historic Milan retailer is one of Italy’s best-known destinations for watch collectors and has collaborated with several prestigious watchmakers over the years on exclusive editions. We are pleased to share the images with our readers in this latest instalment of our “In Pictures” series. Click any image to enlarge.

Explore the All Black or the Blue Ceramic models on Pisa 1940’s online platform, or visit them at the Milan boutique.

The Big Bang Reloaded All Black (ref. 421.CX.1140.NR.RLD) revisits the monochromatic concept Hublot first introduced in 2006. The 44 mm case is made entirely of black ceramic, complemented by black-plated elements and a skeleton dial treated in matching tones.

The restrained colour palette places the emphasis on the combination of polished and satin finishes across the case and bezel, while giving the watch a deliberately uniform appearance.

The Big Bang Reloaded Blue Ceramic (ref. 421.EX.5129.NR.RLD) takes a different approach, using blue ceramic to demonstrate Hublot’s work with coloured versions of the material. Its case combines satin-finished and polished blue ceramic with a titanium bezel, while matching blue accents continue onto the strap.

The grey-toned skeleton dial provides greater contrast and keeps the movement components visible, with an anthracite-treated rotor adding another layer of detail on the reverse.

Both watches are powered by the HUB 1280 Unico, an integrated self-winding flyback chronograph operating at 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The 354-part movement contains 43 jewels and incorporates several patented solutions, including a backlash-compensating oscillating clutch and an anti-shaking system for the chronograph seconds hand.

For the Reloaded collection, the movement takes on greater visual prominence.

The column wheel is exposed at 6 o’clock and the dual clutch at 8 o’clock, while the chronograph counter at 3 o’clock has been redesigned. The date display has also been repositioned between 4 and 5 o’clock. Viewed through the sapphire caseback, the openworked rotor carries a cut-out “H” motif.

The shared 44 mm case measures 14.5 mm thick and provides water resistance to 100 metres.

A two-part bezel creates additional contrast between the different materials and surface treatments, while the multilayer skeleton dial contributes to the depth of the construction.

Both versions are supplied with two interchangeable straps: a fabric-textured rubber strap and a structured rubber strap. Each is fitted with a deployant clasp and uses Hublot’s One Click system for strap changes.

The Big Bang Reloaded models photographed for this article are available through Pisa 1940’s Milan boutique and online platform (All Black or Blue Ceramic).

More information at hublot.com and pisa1940.com

Panerai marks 100 years of its Florence Boutique with two Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni models

2026-09-11T08:04:25.060+02:00

Panerai marks the centenary of its historic Florence boutique with two new Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni models, combining a 1960s military reference with details linked to the Maison’s Florentine origins.

The PAM01734 and PAM01794 share a 44 mm case, the hand-wound P.5000 manufacture calibre and an eight-day power reserve, while differing in materials, water resistance and dial configuration.

The watches will also take centre stage at Immersion, Panerai’s exhibition at the Museo Marino Marini in Florence from September 10 to 19.

Panerai’s connection with Florence dates back to 1860, when Giovanni Panerai established a watch shop, workshop and watchmaking school at Ponte alle Grazie. The business moved several times before settling in Piazza San Giovanni in 1926, within the Archbishop’s Palace and overlooking Florence Cathedral.

Known as “Orologeria Svizzera”, the shop served not only as a retail space but also as a working watchmaking workshop, where watches were assembled and repaired. The experience gained through contacts with the Swiss Maisons represented there contributed to the Panerai family’s technical knowledge, while its developing relationship with the Italian Navy would eventually establish the foundations of the brand’s identity in water resistance, luminescence and professional instruments.

The partnership with the Italian Navy remained subject to military secrecy until September 10, 1993, when Panerai presented its watches to the civilian market. Four years later, following the acquisition of the company by Richemont, the Florence boutique underwent renovation and reopened in 2001 as Panerai’s first owned boutique. Its historical character has since been preserved, with contemporary collections displayed alongside historical instruments and watches and a working watchmaker’s station.

Panerai’s Florence boutique after its reopening in 2001, following its renovation under Richemont ownership. The historic location in Piazza San Giovanni has remained an important part of the Maison’s identity. Below, the boutique today.

The centenary of the Piazza San Giovanni boutique provides the context for the new Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni models.

Their design is based on the reference 6152/1 from the 1960s, specifically a rare prototype authenticated by Panerai and held in a private collection. The watch was selected for its connection to Florence, most notably through the “Panerai Firenze” inscription on its dial.

That inscription is reproduced at 12 o’clock on both new models.

Another detail from the prototype is also carried over: a crown-protecting bridge with parallel grooves cut into its inner sides facing the crown.

The feature appears on the PAM01734, reflecting an experimental modification developed to make winding easier in operational conditions, including when the watches were handled while wearing gloves or in low-visibility environments.

The 6152/1 prototype measured 47 mm, while the new watches adopt a more compact 44 mm case.

Both retain the cushion-shaped middle case, flat crown-protecting bridge and combination of polished and brushed surfaces associated with Panerai’s historical construction.

The two references differ most clearly in their case materials and water-resistance specifications.

The Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 uses Panerai’s Platinumtech alloy, a platinum material treated to increase its hardness compared with standard platinum.

Its 44 mm case is paired with an open sapphire case back and is water-resistant to 10 bar, approximately 100 metres / 330 feet.

The Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01794 uses polished stainless steel, with a brushed closed case back engraved with the Florence boutique, and increases water resistance to 30 bar, or approximately 300 metres / 1,000 feet.

Both watches use a slightly curved domed sapphire crystal, recalling the visual effect of the PERSPEX crystals used on Luminor watches in the 1960s.

On the PAM01734, the crystal sits above a circular-brushed green sandwich dial with green Super-LumiNova on the cut-out numerals, markers and vintage-inspired double pencil hands, which have a gold-effect finish.

The PAM01794 pairs its steel case with a circular-brushed black sandwich dial and green Super-LumiNova, with blue-finished hands providing a contrasting detail. Panerai reproduces the blue tone through a controlled oxidation process.

The dials are deliberately free of a date display or other auxiliary functions, keeping the focus on hours and minutes and on the characteristic sandwich construction.

The hand-wound P.5000 manufacture calibre provides the two watches with eight days of autonomy. The 113-part movement is 4.5 mm thick and uses two barrels to achieve its extended power reserve.

Its balance oscillates at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, and is fitted with an Incabloc Parechoc anti-shock device.

A variable-inertia balance with timing screws is supported by a full traversing bridge, while the movement’s predominantly enclosed architecture recalls the construction of historic Panerai calibres.

Horizontal brushing on the plates, blue inscriptions and red jewels provide the contemporary finishing details visible through the open case back of the PAM01734.

The eight-day reserve itself has a historical basis in Panerai’s professional watches. In the 1950s, the Maison adopted the Angelus SF 240 movement, whose eight-day autonomy reduced the need for frequent winding in watches used by underwater commandos.

Limiting the number of winding operations also helped reduce stress on the crown assembly, an important consideration for watches intended for use in demanding environments. The P.5000 continues this combination of manual winding and extended autonomy in a contemporary manufacture calibre.

The closed steel caseback of the PAM01794 carries the “Officine Panerai Firenze” inscription and an engraving of the historic boutique façade.

The Florentine theme continues with the straps. The PAM01734 is fitted with a black Tuscan calf leather strap bearing a hot-stamped Florentine lily and is supplied with a second green rubber strap.

The PAM01794 comes on a dark brown Tuscan calf leather strap with the same lily motif and an additional black rubber strap.

The watches are delivered in mahogany boxes with dovetail corner joints, with the lacquered box of the platinum model contrasting with the matte finish used for the steel version.

Both boxes feature a metal plaque depicting the historic entrance of the Florence boutique and include the tools required to change the straps.

The Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 is limited to 100 pieces and priced at €55,000, while the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01794 is limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at €10,700. Both will be available in Panerai boutiques from September 2026. panerai.com

Louis Vuitton adds five Tambour Spin Time watches to its permanent collection

2026-09-10T12:40:26.078+02:00

Louis Vuitton has added five new Tambour Spin Time references to its collection, extending the series with different materials, colours and complications.

The new models comprise the Tambour Spin Time in white gold with a green dial, the rose-gold Tambour Spin Time Australia’s Opal, the Tambour Spin Time Air Blue, the Tambour Spin Time Air Antipode Blue with world-time functionality, and the Tambour Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon Salmon.

The Spin Time concept dates back to 2007, when Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, founders of La Fabrique du Temps, developed the idea after being inspired by mechanical departure boards. The first Spin Time watch appeared in 2009, using 12 rotating cubes to indicate the hours.

It was also the first movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps for Louis Vuitton. La Fabrique du Temps was acquired by Louis Vuitton in 2011, bringing movement, case and dial production together in Geneva. The Spin Time Air followed in 2019, while 2025 saw the introduction of a new family of movements and the completion of fully in-house production.

The new Tambour Spin Time Green Ref. W9WGA2 is housed in a 39.5 mm white-gold case measuring 12.15 mm thick, including its domed crystal.

Water resistance is rated to 100 metres, and an open sapphire caseback reveals the LFT ST13.01 automatic movement. The calibre comprises 246 components and 35 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a 45-hour power reserve.

A rose-gold oscillating weight is visible through the caseback, while the watch is fitted with a green rubber strap. Price: €86,000.

The Tambour Spin Time Australia’s Opal Ref. W9PG42 uses the same 39.5 mm case diameter, here executed in rose gold, with a blue Australian opal forming the centre of the dial and appearing between the 12 rotating cubes.

The bezel is set with 48 baguette-cut blue sapphires, while 20 baguette sapphires decorate the lugs and 12 baguette-cut diamonds mark the hours. The buckle carries a further 14 baguette-cut sapphires, bringing the total to 82 sapphires and 12 diamonds, with approximately 4.71 carats of stones.

Its LFT ST13.01 movement has the same 246 components, 35 jewels, 45-hour power reserve and 28,800 vph frequency as the green model. Price: €190,000.

The Tambour Spin Time Air Blue Ref. W9WG81 moves to a larger 42.5 mm white-gold case measuring 12.45 mm thick, with 50 metres of water resistance.

Its blue dial uses the rotating cubes to spell out “Louis Vuitton”, while the open caseback displays the LFT ST13.01 movement.

As in the smaller references, the automatic calibre has 246 components, 35 jewels, a 45-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph. A blue calfskin strap completes the watch. Price: €95,000.

The Tambour Spin Time Air Antipode Blue Ref. W9WG91 retains the 42.5 mm white-gold case and 12.45 mm thickness, but adds a world-time display to the Spin Time Air construction.

Its dial features a world map at the centre, while the 12 rotating cubes represent 24 major time zones, with cities positioned 12 hours apart and day/night indication. Local time is shown by a miniature yellow pointer.

The watch is powered by the LFT ST12.01 automatic calibre, which combines the world-time mechanism with the Spin Time Air display. It contains 271 components and 36 jewels, operates at 28,800 vph and offers 45 hours of autonomy. Price: €120,000.

At the top of the range, the Tambour Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon Salmon Ref. W9PT21 combines the 42.5 mm format with a 950 platinum case and a central flying tourbillon.

The case measures 12.45 mm thick, is water-resistant to 50 metres and has an open sapphire caseback fitted with a saffron sapphire element. The salmon-coloured dial surrounds the central tourbillon, while the watch is paired with a taupe calfskin strap.

The LFT ST05.01 automatic movement comprises 283 components and 40 jewels, operates at 28,800 vph and offers a 45-hour power reserve. Its rose-gold oscillating weight can be seen through the caseback. Price: €200,000.

Across the five references, the cases share Louis Vuitton’s distinctive Tambour treatment, with sandblasted bezels, polished relief lettering and separately milled, hollowed lugs. The concave lug flanks are laser-frosted, while the case middle is brushed. The dials carry the “Fab. en Suisse” inscription, and the movements feature micro-sandblasted bridges, polished chamfers, an 18k rose-gold oscillating weight and transparent colourless jewels.

The five watches are now part of the permanent collection. louisvuitton.com

A. Lange & Söhne expands the 1815 UP/DOWN with a new 37.5 mm size in pink and white gold

2026-09-09T11:49:33.746+02:00

A. Lange & Söhne presents two new versions of the 1815 UP/DOWN, pairing the model’s traditional pocket-watch-inspired design with a blue dial and either a 18k pink gold or 18k white gold case.

Both are limited to 300 watches and feature the manually wound L051.2 manufacture calibre with a 72-hour power reserve.

The 1815 UP/DOWN takes its name from its power-reserve indication, displayed on a subsidiary dial positioned at 8 o’clock opposite the small seconds. “AB” indicates that the movement is unwound, while “AUF” marks a fully wound state.

The model was first presented in 2013, when A. Lange & Söhne introduced the 1815 UP/DOWN with a 39 mm case in yellow, white or pink gold, paired with an argenté solid-silver dial. The new references join the existing versions in a smaller 37.5 mm case and with blue dials in either pink or white gold.

As with the original model, the power-reserve display is integrated directly into the movement through a specially developed, space-saving planetary gear system, rather than being implemented as an additional module.

The 1815 collection draws its design language from historic Lange pocket watches, with a railway-track minute scale, Arabic numerals and a recessed central dial section.

On the new references, these elements are combined with a blue 925 silver dial and argenté-coloured auxiliary dials for the power-reserve and subsidiary seconds indications.

The latter is paired with blued hands, while the hour and minute hands are crafted in gold to match the case.

A slender, subtly stepped bezel completes the compact profile.

The 37.5 mm case measures 8.7 mm in height.

The white-gold version is fitted with a blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap, while the pink-gold edition comes with a reddish-brown strap. Each is matched with a corresponding 750 gold prong buckle.

Through the sapphire crystal case back, the L051.2 reveals a movement architecture that continues the traditional character of the 1815 collection.

The 245-part calibre features a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, along with integrated winding wheels decorated with solarisation. Seven gold chatons secured by blued screws are used for selected jewels.

The balance is held beneath a hand-engraved balance cock and uses a shock-resistant screw balance with an in-house manufactured balance spring.

The oscillation system operates at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and incorporates a precision beat-adjustment system with a lateral setscrew and whiplash spring. The movement measures 30.6 mm in diameter and 4.6 mm in height, and is precision-adjusted in five positions.

In addition to the hours and minutes, the watch provides subsidiary seconds with a stop-seconds function and the integrated UP/DOWN power-reserve display.

Winding and time-setting are performed through the crown, with the fully wound movement providing up to 72 hours of autonomy.

The two new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 UP/DOWN references, 244.037 in pink gold and 244.028 in white gold, were presented at this year’s Concours of Elegance at Hampton Court Palace, alongside the Triple Split chronograph covered by Time and Watches last week. Prices are available upon request. alange-soehne.com

Piaget Polo Minute Repeater: A new grand complication joins the collection

2026-09-08T13:22:31.865+02:00

Piaget presents the new Polo Minute Repeater, bringing an ultra-thin minute repeater into the Maison’s contemporary sports-watch collection.

The model combines an openworked, hand-guilloché gold dial with the Manufacture’s Calibre 1290P, allowing part of the chiming mechanism to remain visible while retaining the characteristic shape-in-shape architecture of the Polo.

The new watch continues Piaget’s long-standing focus on ultra-thin watchmaking and builds on the Maison’s experience with chiming complications.

In 2013, Piaget introduced the Polo Emperador Minute Repeater, which was, at the time, the world’s thinnest minute repeater. The new model transfers this expertise to the current Polo collection, pairing the complication with the proportions and styling of the contemporary sports-watch line.

The 1290P is entirely conceived, developed, finished and assembled at Piaget’s Manufacture in La Côte-aux-Fées.

Its 430 components require several weeks of hand finishing and assembly. The bridges are hand-beveled, while the mainplate is decorated with a subtle guilloché pattern.

The minute-repeater hammers are hand-polished to a mirror finish, and a platinum micro-rotor provides automatic winding. The rotor is finished in blue PVD to match the colour accents of the dial.

The dial combines several techniques associated with Piaget’s watchmaking and jewellery expertise.

Executed in gold, it features hand-guilloché decoration with a soleillé finish, surrounded by a contrasting opaline outer track.

A fine gold fillet crosses the dial, changing from a straight to a domed profile and opening views onto the repeater mechanism below.

At 4 o’clock, a smoked blue sapphire ring bearing the “La Côte-aux-Fées” inscription reveals the inertia wheel, which regulates the chiming sequence.

Piaget states that more than 150 hours were required to develop the dial, followed by around 50 hours of hand finishing for each individual piece.

The minute repeater is activated by a slide positioned at 9 o’clock, which operates downwards. The movement architecture was reworked to accommodate this configuration while preserving the required acoustic characteristics.

The 1290P strikes the hours in G sharp and the minutes in A sharp, both in the fifth octave.

Piaget specifies an intensity of 64 decibels, three harmonic partials and a damping factor of 2,600, the result of research into both the movement and the resonance of the case.

The movement is housed in a 48 mm 18-karat white gold case measuring 9.3 mm thick. Its fluid, rounded form retains the Polo’s characteristic shape-in-shape construction.

Water resistance is rated at 3 ATM. The watch is delivered on a blue textured embossed calfskin strap with a folding clasp, accompanied by an additional leather bracelet.

Only five numbered examples of the Piaget Polo Minute Repeater, ref. G0A51038, will be produced this year. According to Piaget, this production level reflects the amount of work required for each watch rather than a conventional limited-edition strategy.

The model joins the perpetual calendar and flying tourbillon as another grand complication integrated into the Polo collection.

Piaget is also presenting a High Jewellery version under the Piaget Polo Emperador Minute Repeater High Jewellery name. Ref. G0A51017 retains the 48 mm white gold case and 1290P movement, but adds a bezel set with baguette-cut blue sapphires and a case decorated with baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Its fully openworked dial leaves the extensive hand-finishing work visible, while a dark blue alligator strap completes the configuration.

The prices are available upon request. piaget.com

TAG Heuer redesigns the Carrera Chronograph Sport with a new 42 mm case

2026-09-07T11:02:46.663+02:00

TAG Heuer brings the Carrera Chronograph Sport back into focus with a redesigned 42 mm model that revises the proportions, case construction and dial layout of the racing chronograph.

The new generation is presented in five configurations, all powered by the in-house Calibre TH20-00 with an 80-hour power reserve.

The launch will take place in Madrid during the 2026 Formula 1 Spanish Grand Prix, where TAG Heuer is Title Partner of the race and Official Timekeeper of Formula 1.

The new Carrera Chronograph Sport continues the collection’s long association with motorsport, while revisiting the design of the chronograph introduced in 2020.

The Carrera name dates back to 1963, when Jack Heuer developed a chronograph intended for professional drivers. Inspired by the Carrera Panamericana road race, the original model placed particular emphasis on legibility, with a clean dial layout designed to make elapsed-time indications easy to read while driving.

That principle remains central to the new chronograph, although the execution has been adapted to contemporary proportions and construction.

The most apparent change is the case size. The new Carrera Chronograph Sport measures 42 mm in diameter, compared with 44 mm for its predecessor, while the lug-to-lug measurement has been reduced from 49.8 mm to 48.6 mm.

Its thickness has also decreased from 15.48 mm to 14.17 mm. The redesigned stainless-steel case combines brushed and polished surfaces, with brushed sides contributing to its more technical appearance.

The fixed tachymeter bezel has also been revised. A visible steel cradle surrounds a polished ceramic insert, creating a more defined transition between the case and bezel.

The chronograph pushers, inspired by engine pistons, further underline the model’s connection with motorsport.

The new Carrera Chronograph Sport is powered by TAG Heuer’s in-house Calibre TH20-00. Visible through a screw-down sapphire case back, this column-wheel automatic chronograph movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of 80-hours.

The back of the right upper lug is engraved with the Victory Wreath, a detail that has become part of the visual language of recent Carrera models.

The dial has been redesigned around an enhanced tricompax layout, with Arabic numerals replacing the indexes used on the previous generation.

The three counters are positioned at 3, 9 and 6 o’clock, with the permanent seconds display at 6 and the date integrated into the same area. White tachymeter markings remain on the bezel, while Super-LumiNova is applied to the faceted hour and minute hands.

Five versions form the initial range. The black opalin model, reference CDB2110.BA0054, combines a black dial and counters with red chronograph hands and markings, and is paired with a stainless-steel H-shaped bracelet.

The blue version, reference CDB2111.BA0054, uses a blue sunray-brushed dial, silver counters, grey chronograph details and a matching blue ceramic tachymeter bezel. It is available on the same steel bracelet, while reference CDB2111.FC8378 pairs the blue dial with a perforated brown calfskin strap.

The green version, reference CDB2112.BA0054, follows the same architecture with a green sunray-brushed dial, silver counters and a matching ceramic bezel.

The fifth configuration, reference CDB2113.BA0054, takes the classic panda approach, combining a silver sunray-brushed dial with black counters and a black ceramic tachymeter bezel.

The steel H-shaped bracelet is shared by four of the references and now incorporates an easy-link adjustment system intended to allow the wearer to modify its length without tools.

The brown-strap version uses a perforated calfskin strap with a folding pin buckle.

All five models have 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet) water resistance and sapphire crystals with double-sided anti-reflective treatment.

The bracelet versions are priced at CHF 6,200 / €6,550 / US$6,850, while the blue version on the brown perforated calfskin strap is priced at CHF 6,000 / €6,350 / US$6,650. tagheuer.com

Alpina Startimer Pilot Solarmetre adds solar technology to the Pilot collection

2026-09-06T07:46:33.063+02:00

Alpina expands its solar-powered lineup with the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre, bringing the brand's Solarmetre technology to its aviation-oriented collection for the first time.

Housed in a new, more compact 38 mm case, the model pairs the line’s signature pilot aesthetic with a high-efficiency solar quartz movement.

Originally introduced in the Alpiner range, the technology uses both natural and artificial light to generate and store energy, allowing the watch to run for up to 10 months after a full charge. After being completely discharged, the movement can also resume operation within a few seconds of being exposed to light.

Three dial and case configurations are available, including two stainless-steel versions and a champagne-toned PVD-treated edition.

The three-part case measures 9.32 mm thick and combines fine sandblasted and polished surfaces, with bevelled edges and satin finishing on the case middle and lugs.

An anti-reflective sapphire crystal covers the dial, while a threaded solid case back carries a stamped Startimer pattern. Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet).

The solar technology is integrated beneath the dial and is developed by La Joux-Perret, like Alpina part of the Citizen Group.

The system is built around three layers, with the translucent dial forming the outermost element and allowing light to pass through to solar cells positioned underneath.

These cells cover virtually the entire dial surface, with the exception of the area around the date window at 3 o’clock, and remain invisible when viewing the watch normally.

At the heart of the system, a battery stores the electrical energy generated by the solar cells, while an integrated circuit regulates its distribution.

Energy can either be stored for later use or supplied directly to the movement.

The translucent construction of the dial allows Alpina to retain the typical Startimer Pilot appearance while offering different colours and finishes.

The collection is available with a black grained dial and black leather strap, a navy blue grained dial paired with a navy Cordura fabric strap, and a third version with a champagne-coloured PVD-treated stainless-steel case, brown grained dial and sand-beige NATO-style strap.

Across the three versions, the dial follows the familiar Startimer Pilot layout, with three central hands, a date display at 3 o’clock and an outer ring carrying luminous markers.

The hour and minute hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova, while the seconds hand features a triangular counterweight.

A detail specific to the Solarmetre versions is the use of blue rather than Alpina’s traditional red for the triangular logo at 12 o’clock, the logo on the seconds hand and the Startimer wording at 6 o’clock, with blue luminous material also surrounding the triangle at 12.

The Alpina Startimer Pilot Solarmetre with black dial, reference AL-140BW3S26, is priced at €1,095.

The navy blue reference AL-140BLW3S26 is also priced at €1,095, while the champagne-coloured PVD version, reference AL-140BR3S25, is priced at €1,195. alpinawatches.com

Baume & Mercier Riviera 10897 and Classima 10898 mark historic racing event

2026-09-05T08:15:30.114+02:00

Baume & Mercier marks its role as Official Timekeeper of the 2026 Gran Premio Storico d’Italia with two limited-edition watches: the Riviera 10897 and the Classima 10898.

The two models draw on different collections to reflect the character of the historic motorsport event, combining sporting details on the Riviera with a more understated approach on the Classima.

Taking place from 2 to 4 October 2026 at the Mugello Circuit, the Gran Premio Storico d’Italia is organised by HVM Racing in collaboration with Ferrari Corse Clienti. The event brings together historic racing cars, drivers, collectors and enthusiasts, with a focus on the cars and eras that have shaped the history of motor racing.

The Riviera Chronograph 10897 uses the collection’s characteristic dodecagonal case architecture as the basis for its motorsport-inspired design.

Its 41 mm stainless-steel case measures 13.94 mm thick and combines polished and satin-finished surfaces, while the bezel is finished with a mix of sunray satin and polished surfaces and secured by four screws.

The opaline white dial features green snailed counters and a matching minute track, contrasted by red chronograph hands and a red central seconds hand.

Rhodium-plated Roman numerals and indexes, together with faceted hands coated with white Super-LumiNova, provide the main time indications with additional low-light legibility.

The chronograph is powered by the automatic Valjoux 7753, a 27-jewel movement operating at 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It displays the hours and minutes, small seconds, chronograph functions and date, with the date aperture positioned at 4:30.

The movement is visible through a personalised sapphire case back, while the dial carries the “Official Timekeeper GPSI” marking.

Water resistance is rated at 100 metres / 330 feet, and the watch is fitted with an integrated black rubber strap with canvas decoration and Baume & Mercier’s fast strap interchangeability system, allowing it to be changed without tools.

The Classima 10898 takes a different approach, incorporating the event references into the collection’s more traditional design. Its polished stainless-steel case measures 42 mm in diameter and only 6.2 mm thick, framing a black sunray satin-finished dial.

Rhodium-plated Roman numerals, indexes and leaf-shaped hands retain the Classima’s classical character, while a white minute track and a single red “60” provide the principal motorsport-related detail. A date display is positioned at 3 o’clock.

Inside, the Classima is powered by the quartz ETA F06.115 movement, providing approximately four years of autonomy and driving the hours, minutes and date indications.

The case back is personalised for the Gran Premio Storico d’Italia, while the black calfskin strap uses a carbon-effect finish with red edges and matching red stitching. Interchangeable bars allow the strap to be changed without tools.

The watch is water-resistant to 50 metres and secured by a polished stainless-steel pin buckle.

The Riviera 10897 is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at €4,700 / US$5,100. The Classima 10898 is priced at €1,350 / US$1,400. baume-et-mercier.com

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split returns in Platinum

2026-09-04T14:01:10.237+02:00

A. Lange & Söhne presents a new execution of the Triple Split (Ref. 424.025F), the world’s only split-seconds chronograph capable of measuring comparative and intermediate times extending to twelve hours.

Following the original white gold version introduced in 2018 and a pink gold version in 2021, the Glashütte manufacture now offers the model in a 950 platinum case with a rhodié-coloured dial and darker grey auxiliary counters.

The defining feature of the Triple Split is its extension of the rattrapante mechanism beyond the central seconds hand to the minute and hour totalizers.

While a conventional split-seconds chronograph can record intermediate times within a 60-second interval, the Triple Split allows secondary events lasting up to twelve hours to be measured. A pusher at 10 o’clock controls three blued-steel hands for the seconds, minutes and hours.

Pressing it stops these hands to display an intermediate interval while the primary rhodiumed chronograph hands continue recording elapsed time. A second press synchronizes the blued hands with the ongoing measurement.

The chronograph also incorporates a flyback function, operated by the pusher at 4 o’clock, which resets and immediately restarts the active counters.

Despite the quantity of information, the dial retains a clearly defined hierarchy. The central display combines the chronograph and rattrapante seconds hands and is surrounded by a peripheral tachymeter scale for calculating average speeds over 1,000 metres.

At 4 o’clock, the minute counter advances instantaneously at the 60-second mark, while the subsidiary dial at 8 o’clock displays the continuously running seconds. The hour counters are positioned at 12 o’clock, with Lange’s UP/DOWN power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock.

The main dial is made of 925 silver with a rhodié finish and is combined with recessed darker-grey subdials.

Rhodiumed-gold hour and minute hands are treated with luminous material, while red accents appear on the totalizers and power-reserve scale.

The resulting layout separates the various indications without compromising the technical character of the display.

Visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback, the hand-wound manufacture calibre L132.1 provides the mechanical basis for the Triple Split.

Its 567 components include 46 jewels and five gold chatons held by blued screws. The movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 3 Hz, and provides a power reserve of 55 hours.

The multiple rattrapante mechanisms and instantaneous jumping counters place additional demands on the movement’s energy management.

To limit friction losses, Lange has integrated a patented disengagement mechanism that disconnects the friction-intensive components on the seconds and minute arbors when the corresponding rattrapante hands are stopped.

This allows the balance wheel to maintain a stable rate while an intermediate time is being displayed.

Measuring 30.6 mm in diameter and 9.4 mm in height, the calibre is finished according to traditional Glashütte techniques.

Its plates and bridges are made of untreated German silver with Glashütte ribbing, while the levers, springs and rockers feature straight-grained surfaces and hand-polished bevels with internal angles.

The hand-engraved balance cock is combined with a whiplash precision beat-adjustment system.

The 950 platinum case measures 43.2 mm in diameter and 15.6 mm in thickness.

Satin-brushed case flanks provide a refined visual contrast against the mirror-polished bezel and lugs, while anti-reflective sapphire crystals on the front and back protect the dial and expose the movement.

A dark-brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap with grey stitching completes the watch, secured by a quick-release deployant buckle in 950 platinum.

Production of the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Ref. 424.025F is limited to 100 individually numbered pieces. Its price is available upon request. alange-soehne.com

Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition features a secret laser-etched mainspring

2026-09-03T13:29:21.242+02:00

The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition brings the character of Disney’s The Muppets’ Great Gonzo into the mechanical architecture of the ProPilot X Calibre 115, combining a titanium case and skeletonised dial with a 10-day power reserve and a mainspring that progressively reveals Gonzo’s face as the watch is wound.

The collaboration marks Oris’s third watch with Disney’s The Muppets, following earlier editions dedicated to Kermit the Frog and Miss Piggy.

Gonzo first appeared on The Muppet Show in 1976 and became known for his eccentric personality and elaborate, often improbable stunts. His distinctive appearance and unconventional character have made him one of the more recognizable figures in The Muppets universe.

The ProPilot X Gonzo Edition incorporates these references into the design of the watch, most notably through its colour scheme and some unique details.

The ProPilot X Gonzo Edition is based on the ProPilot X Calibre 115, an entirely mechanical design in titanium powered by Oris Calibre 115, operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hours).

The hand-wound movement combines a non-linear power-reserve indication with a 240-hour, or 10-day, power reserve.

At 3 o’clock, the remaining running time is indicated by a hand shaped like a chilli pepper, a reference to one of Gonzo’s characteristic shirt designs, while the scale is marked in “GREAT” days, echoing his stage name.

The most unusual element is integrated into the movement’s open barrel.

The 1.8-metre-long mainspring is visible through the skeletonised construction at 12 o’clock, and laser-etched details along its edge form Gonzo’s face when the spring is fully wound.

As the mainspring unwinds, the image progressively separates into individual elements, disappearing as the power reserve approaches zero. Winding the watch reverses the process, gradually bringing the character’s face back into view. Oris describes the mechanism as a first in Swiss watchmaking.

The visual treatment extends across the rest of the watch. The skeletonised dial is rendered in a gradient moving from blue through red to yellow, reflecting Gonzo’s blue fur and his preference for colourful clothing.

Around it, a laser-textured dial ring changes appearance with the angle of the light, ranging from the appearance of polished steel to different colours across the spectrum.

The watch retains the large, technical proportions of the ProPilot X Calibre 115. Its multi-piece titanium case measures 44 mm in diameter, 12.6 mm in thickness and 52 mm from lug to lug.

A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside protects the skeletonised dial, while the screwed titanium case back incorporates a transparent sapphire crystal.

A titanium screw-in security crown completes the case, which is water-resistant to 10 bar, or 100 metres.

The multi-piece titanium bracelet is fitted with an Oris-developed folding clasp and follows the case’s lightweight construction.

The ProPilot X Gonzo Edition is limited to the specific collaboration and is identified by reference 01 115 7759 7180-Set. It is priced at CHF 8,500 / €8,500 / US$10,500. oris.ch

The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta goes mechanical with the new Handwinding edition

2026-09-03T08:06:40.211+02:00

The Classics Moneta by Frederique Constant takes a mechanical turn with the new Handwinding edition, pairing the collection’s coin-edge-inspired inner rehaut with a 38.5 mm stainless-steel case, a smoked salmon-to-black gradient dial and a hand-wound La Joux-Perret movement offering 63 hours of power reserve.

Limited to 999 pieces, the Classics Moneta Handwinding brings a distinctly vintage character to one of Frederique Constant’s more recent collections.

Since its launch in 2024, the Classics Moneta has established a distinctive identity within the Frederique Constant collection, with much of its character concentrated in an unexpected detail.

Rather than relying solely on the shape or finishing of the case, the design is defined by the inner rehaut, whose fluted profile recalls the edge of a coin and provides the inspiration for the Moneta name. It is a relatively discreet feature, but one that gives the watch a recognizable point of distinction.

The new edition preserves this architecture while introducing the collection’s first mechanical movement.

Developed by La Joux-Perret in La Chaux-de-Fonds and customised exclusively for Frederique Constant, the hand-wound FC-435 calibre reflects the close relationship between the two companies, which are both part of the Citizen Group.

The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and contains 29 jewels, with a 63-hour power reserve.

Visible through the screwed sapphire case back, the movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève and features Frederique Constant’s coat of arms at its centre, a motif the brand has used since 1988.

The absence of an automatic winding rotor leaves the finishing unobstructed while also contributing to the watch’s restrained proportions and its vintage-inspired character.

The dial takes the same approach to the neo-retro theme.

Its grained surface transitions from a smoked salmon tone at the centre to black towards the periphery, creating a darker background for the applied, diamond-cut hour markers.

Silver-coloured dauphine hands indicate the hours and minutes, while a small seconds display occupies the 6 o’clock position. Together, these elements draw on design codes associated with mid-century dress watches without reproducing them literally.

The 38.5 mm polished stainless-steel case measures 10.13 mm in height and is topped by a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Its coin-edge-inspired inner ring remains one of the defining details of the case architecture.

The vintage character continues with the strap, which is made from black alligator leather with a round-scale pattern and tone-on-tone stitching. A conventional pin buckle completes the configuration.

Water resistance is rated to 5 ATM, or 50 metres / 165 feet.

The Classics Moneta Handwinding is limited to 999 pieces, with “ONE OF 999” engraved on the case back. Reference FC-435BBL3S6 is priced at €1,995. frederiqueconstant.com

DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 brings Grade 5 Titanium into the permanent collection

2026-09-02T13:09:38.146+02:00

Nearly six decades after the introduction of the SUB 300 in 1967, DOXA adds a new material to the permanent collection with the SUB 300 Ti5.

Following the limited SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler edition introduced earlier in 2026, Grade 5 titanium now becomes available across seven permanent expressions of the iconic diver, including the familiar Professional, Sharkhunter, Caribbean and Red Coral colourways, as well as two Whitepearl versions.

The choice of Grade 5 titanium brings a different set of properties to the established SUB 300 architecture. The material offers a high strength-to-weight ratio, mechanical rigidity and resistance to corrosion, while weighing approximately 40% less than stainless steel.

For a watch intended for prolonged wear both underwater and on land, the reduction in weight also changes the wearing experience without altering the fundamental construction of the dive instrument.

The SUB 300 Ti5 measures 42.50 mm in diameter and 45.00 mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 13.40 mm and 20 mm lug width.

The Grade 5 titanium construction extends to the screw-down crown and screw-in caseback, while the domed “glass box” sapphire crystal is treated with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance is rated to 300 metres, or 30 ATM and approximately 984 feet.

The watch retains the characteristic functional architecture of the SUB 300, including DOXA’s patented unidirectional rotating bezel with its dual scale.

The outer scale indicates depth, while the inner scale corresponds to dive time and allows divers to remain within the no-decompression limits established by the US Navy.

Beneath the sapphire crystal, the dive-related indications are coated with Super-LumiNova, while the oversized minute hand remains the most immediate visual reference on the dial.

Inside, the SUB 300 Ti5 is powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, individually COSC-certified as a chronometer. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, the 26-jewel calibre provides approximately 38 hours of power reserve.

The movement is decorated by DOXA and combines the practical requirements of a modern dive watch with the precision expected from a certified mechanical chronometer.

The permanent collection comprises seven expressions.

The Professional retains the orange dial that has become closely associated with the DOXA SUB, while the Sharkhunter uses a black dial and the Caribbean a deep blue one.

The Red Coral introduces a vibrant cherry-red dial, available in two configurations with either a matching red or black Dive Flex rubber strap.

The Whitepearl versions introduce a more substantial change than a new dial colour alone.

Their dials are entirely coated with Super-LumiNova, creating a luminous surface that changes considerably between day and night.

In daylight, the white dial contrasts with the metallic grey of the titanium case; in darkness, the luminous treatment provides an even and highly visible display.

The white version can be combined with either a white or black Dive Flex rubber strap, while the other models are paired with tone-on-tone or black versions of the same woven-texture rubber strap.

The return of Grade 5 titanium to the permanent SUB 300 collection therefore represents an evolution rather than a reinterpretation of the model's original design.

The SUB 300 itself dates to 1967, when DOXA introduced it as a professional-grade dive watch intended for the general public, with its patented rotating bezel and highly legible orange dial establishing many of the characteristics that remain associated with the model today.

Titanium was not part of that original 1967 construction. Instead, DOXA's modern use of the material on the SUB 300 Ti5 follows a more recent development.

The limited SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, unveiled in July 2026, was the first SUB 300 to use Grade 5 titanium and combined the material with a newly developed two-level titanium dial. The new permanent-collection Ti5 retains the same basic case dimensions and material strategy while returning to the more familiar single-plane dial and established colourways of the collection.

The new SUB 300 Ti5 is available from DOXA and authorised retailers, priced at €2,990 or US$3,190. doxawatches.com

Bulgari and Vianney Halter join forces on the Octo Finissimo Dual Time

2026-09-02T09:00:57.905+02:00

Bulgari introduces the Octo Finissimo Dual Time × Vianney Halter for Geneva Watch Days 2026, marking the first collaboration between the Maison and the independent watchmaker within the Octo Finissimo collection.

More significantly, the project extends beyond the case and dial: Vianney Halter has worked directly with Bulgari on the movement, bringing his distinctive approach to mechanical design to the architecture of one of the Maison’s ultra-thin calibres.

The result combines the geometric discipline of the Octo Finissimo with Halter’s characteristic approach to multiple indications, independent displays and three-dimensional construction.

The movement incorporates GMT, date and day/night functions alongside the hours, minutes and small seconds, while retaining the proportions and slim profile characteristic of the Octo Finissimo.

The design was developed jointly by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Executive Director of Product Creation, and Vianney Halter, with the aim of preserving the essential identity of both sides.

The four opaline rhodium-plated displays are arranged across the dial, with separate indications for the hours and minutes, GMT, date and day/night.

Vianney Halter’s characteristic shaped hands are rendered in blue, joined by a red arrow seconds hand.

The watch retains the Octo Finissimo’s characteristic proportions in a 40.5 mm case measuring 9.70 mm in overall thickness.

The case architecture comprises more than 50 components and incorporates satin-polished porthole bezels and integrated crown guards. The construction was developed to preserve water resistance without disrupting the clean geometry of the case.

A transparent sapphire crystal case back provides a view of the movement, while water resistance is rated to 3 ATM, or 30 metres / 100 feet.

Two versions are offered, distinguished by their case and bracelet or strap materials.

The first, reference 104356, is limited to 30 pieces and combines a sandblasted titanium case with a matching integrated titanium bracelet.

The case features polished titanium bezels and a polished titanium crown with a black ceramic insert.

The second version, reference 104355, is limited to 15 pieces and features a rose-gold case with a sandblasted base and vertically brushed upper part, complemented by satin-polished rose bezels and a polished crown with a black ceramic insert.

It is paired with a brown alligator strap secured by a rose-gold ardillon buckle.

Both versions use the same four-part dial construction, combining two opaline rhodium-plated dials for the hours and minutes and GMT functions with separate opaline indicators for the date and day/night.

Sandblasted and satin-brushed elements provide additional definition to the displays, while the blue Vianney Halter-shaped hands and red arrow seconds hand complete the design.

Achieving a homogeneous opaline finish across four separate elements presented a particular manufacturing challenge, especially while accommodating the different functions and hand clearances.

The miniaturisation of the additional components also required Bulgari to develop dedicated manufacturing tools.

At the heart of the collaboration is the new Bulgari manufacture Calibre BVF 200, produced across the Maison’s workshops in Saignelégier and Le Sentier.

The automatic movement uses a platinum micro-rotor and measures 5.49 mm thick. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 3 Hz, and provides a power reserve of 60 hours.

The movement is decorated with vertical Côtes de Genève, brushing and perlage, while the platinum micro-rotor is engraved with Vianney Halter’s signature. On the rose-gold version, the micro-rotor is finished in a rose-gold colour to complement the case.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time × Vianney Halter in titanium, reference 104356, is limited to 30 pieces and priced at €68,000 excluding taxes. The rose-gold reference 104355, limited to 15 pieces, is priced at €105,000 excluding taxes. bulgari.com

M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese reinterprets the Baladin

2026-09-01T17:59:46.236+02:00

M.A.D.Editions introduces the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the third chapter in the project created by MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser.

The new watch pays tribute to independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese and reinterprets his Baladin concept, a poetic take on the jumping hour in which the hour indication moves progressively across the dial.

At 82, Vincent Calabrese remains one of the more unconventional figures in contemporary watchmaking. Over a career spanning more than five decades, he has consistently approached mechanical watchmaking from outside established conventions, developing more than 40 patents and creating mechanisms ranging from wandering hours to tourbillons.

He co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) with Svend Andersen in 1985, with both later receiving the Special Jury Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2023, and designed the Golden Bridge movement for Corum, among many other projects.

The M.A.D.3 follows the M.A.D.1, originally conceived by Büsser and subsequently developed into the M.A.D.Editions project, and the M.A.D.2, created with designer Eric Giroud. The M.A.D.1S, introduced in 2024, further developed the original concept with a slimmer case and a Swiss La Joux-Perret movement, while retaining the project’s characteristic approach to accessible independent watchmaking.

The M.A.D.3 takes the concept in a different direction by placing the work of another independent creator at its centre.

The connection between Büsser and Calabrese predates M.A.D.Editions. The two have known each other for years and had discussed possible collaborations on several occasions. The M.A.D.3 eventually emerged from a conversation between them around two years ago, when the idea of bringing Calabrese’s Baladin into the M.A.D.Editions universe finally took shape.

The original Baladin was born from Calabrese’s dissatisfaction with the abrupt transition of a conventional jumping-hour display. Instead of allowing the hour indication to change instantaneously, he developed a mechanism in which the hour moves progressively while the minutes continue to advance normally.

The result is an indication that makes the passage from one hour to the next visible on the dial.

A Baladin model by Vincent Calabrese dating back to the 2000s - Courtesy of Christie's

For the M.A.D.3, the intention was not to reproduce the original Baladin but to preserve the principle behind it while adapting the mechanism to a contemporary watch and to the production requirements of M.A.D.Editions.

The technical team therefore redeveloped the wandering-hour module from the ground up, focusing on energy transmission, reliability and long-term stability while retaining the progressive movement that defines Calabrese’s concept.

The resulting automatic movement is based on the Swiss-made Manufacture La Joux-Perret G111 calibre, with a specially developed bi-directional jumping-hour and trailing-minutes module.

The movement measures 4.45 mm in height, operates at 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, and contains 24 jewels. Its power reserve is 55 hours.

The technical work also included tighter tolerances, improved amplitude control and a redesigned module intended to support the production requirements of the M.A.D.3 while preserving the visual smoothness of the original mechanism.

The progressive hour display is the central mechanical feature. Rather than appearing as a conventional digital jumping hour, the indication moves across the display as the hour changes, giving the transition a continuous visual quality.

The complication is integrated into a movement measuring 25.6 mm in diameter, or 11½ lignes, and is designed to operate within the dimensions of the new case.

The movement can also be observed from the reverse of the watch. Openings in the automatic rotor progressively reveal a sentence as it turns: “Il est assez aisé de plaire aux autres, bien plus ardu d’être fier de soi”, or “It is fairly easy to please others, far more difficult to be proud of oneself.”

The phrase was selected as a discreet reference to Calabrese’s independent approach to watchmaking.

The case, designed by Eric Giroud, measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.7 mm in height, with a lug-to-lug distance of 43.7 mm and 21 mm lug width.

It is made from 316L stainless steel and combines a layered construction with floating lugs and domed sapphire crystals on both sides.

The upper sapphire crystal is treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces, while the lower crystal receives anti-reflective treatment on its inner face.

Water resistance is rated to 3 ATM, or 30 metres / 100 feet.

The design retains elements of the visual language established by M.A.D.Editions while adapting them to the character of Calabrese’s work. The architecture is deliberately layered, with the display built around several overlapping elements.

A bombé sapphire minute ring and transparent components allow Super-LumiNova to be integrated into the construction, creating different levels of depth and changing the appearance of the display according to the light.

Colour is another important element. The two launch editions are distinguished by deep blue and sunny raspberry tones, inspired by colours found in Calabrese’s own work.

The Blue edition is paired with a leather strap and stainless-steel folding buckle, while the Pink edition follows the same general configuration.

The two colours also determine how the watches will be distributed.

The Blue M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese will be offered through the M.A.D.Editions raffle system, while the Pink edition will be reserved for M.A.D.Editions Tribe Members and Friends.

The Blue edition raffle opens on September 1 and remains open for one week, until September 7.

The retail price remains consistent with the positioning established by previous M.A.D.Editions releases at CHF 2,900 plus VAT.

At this level, the M.A.D.3 continues the project’s original intention of presenting unusual mechanical ideas at a considerably lower price than the independent high horology pieces with which Büsser and Calabrese are otherwise associated. mbandf.com

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph marks 50 years with a forged carbon case

2026-09-01T12:48:23.307+02:00

TAG Heuer celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Monza with the new Monza Flyback Chronograph, a 42 mm limited edition featuring a forged carbon case and inspired by the original 1976 racing chronograph.

Presented ahead of the 2026 Formula 1 Italian Grand Prix at the Monza circuit, the watch is produced in 500 numbered pieces and builds on the contemporary Monza Flyback Chronograph introduced in 2023.

The history of the Monza is closely linked to TAG Heuer’s long-standing relationship with motorsport. In 1971, Heuer became Official Timekeeper of Scuderia Ferrari, the first watchmaker to partner with a Formula 1 team. Following Niki Lauda’s 1975 Formula 1 World Championship victory with Ferrari, Heuer introduced the Monza in 1976 to commemorate the achievement.

The Heuer Monza launched in 1976

The collection subsequently evolved through successive interpretations, retaining its distinctive racing-oriented identity while incorporating the technical developments of each period.

For its 50th anniversary, the TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph features a 42 mm cushion-shaped case, fixed bezel and crown crafted from forged carbon, a lightweight composite known for its strength and distinctive marbled structure, which gives each piece a slightly different appearance.

A domed sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective treatment protects the matte black dial, which incorporates several details recalling the original Monza.

Black chronograph counters are integrated into the dial, with red accents providing contrast. The 30-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 3 o’clock, while the permanent seconds display occupies 6 o’clock.

At 9 o’clock, the angled date aperture retains a characteristic element of the contemporary Monza design.

The black flange surrounding the dial carries both tachymeter and pulsometer scales, reinforcing the instrument-oriented character of the chronograph.

White printed indexes and white lacquered hour and minute hands are treated with white Super-LumiNova for legibility, while the central chronograph seconds hand and the counter hands introduce further red and white accents.

The dial is signed TAG Heuer and carries the inscriptions “MONZA”, “OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER” and “FLYBACK”.

The chronograph is powered by the manufacture Calibre TH20-12, visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

COSC-certified, the automatic movement incorporates a flyback function that allows the chronograph to be reset and restarted with a single press without first stopping the timing sequence.

The case back is made from Grade 2 titanium with a black DLC coating and is engraved with the individual number of each watch out of 500.

Water resistance is rated to 100 metres / 330 feet.

The case is completed by a black perforated calfskin leather strap with contrasting red stitching. A black DLC-coated Grade 2 titanium folding clasp with double safety push-buttons secures the watch to the wrist.

The TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph, reference CR5092.FC8372, is limited to 500 numbered pieces and is priced at CHF 12,600 / €13,350 / US$13,400. tagheuer.com

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue

2026-09-01T08:14:07.727+02:00

Armin Strom has unveiled the Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue, a limited edition that brings a deep blue treatment to the independent Swiss watchmaker’s distinctive resonance-based dual-time architecture.

Limited to 50 pieces, the new version combines two white textured displays with a blue PVD-coated mainplate and matching details throughout the movement and dial.

The model builds on the Dual Time GMT Resonance that we reviewed in 2025, retaining its fundamental architecture while introducing a new colour treatment that changes the character of both the dial and the movement.

At the centre of the watch is Armin Strom’s manufacture Calibre ARF22, which uses two independent regulating systems connected by the brand’s patented resonance clutch.

The two balance wheels interact continuously, allowing them to oscillate in resonance and creating a visible kinetic element beneath the open architecture of the dial.

Each time zone has its own hours, minutes and day/night indication, making the resonance mechanism part of a practical dual-time display rather than a purely technical feature.

The ARF22 is manually wound and measures 34.15 mm in diameter and 4.92 mm in thickness. It comprises 231 components and 40 jewels, operates at 3.5 Hz, or 25,200 vibrations per hour, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours. The movement is entirely designed, developed and produced in-house.

For this edition, the mainplate and gear-train bridges are finished in blue PVD, creating a strong visual contrast with the two white grené dials.

Their finely grained surfaces are framed by white azurage chapter rings, while blue PVD-coated applied indexes and faceted hands continue the colour theme.

Each dial incorporates a black-polished day/night indicator, with sun rays and a crescent moon, the latter carrying a textured surface.

The blue treatment also extends to the reverse side of the movement. Relief lettering is laser engraved into the mainplate, while polished bevels around the blue surfaces catch the light as the watch moves.

A rhodium-coloured barrel bridge with Côtes de Genève provides another layer of contrast, complemented by black-polished components, circular graining and perlage.

The watch is housed in a 39 mm stainless-steel case measuring 9.05 mm in height, with a lug-to-lug length of 44.50 mm.

Sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment are fitted on both sides, and water resistance is rated to 5 ATM. The case is paired with a matte dark blue alligator strap with white stitching and a stainless-steel pin buckle.

The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue, reference ST26-DT.60, is limited to 50 pieces worldwide and is priced at CHF 95,000. arminstrom.com

Nomos Glashütte creates a Club Sport Worldtimer for Handelsblatt’s 80th anniversary

2026-08-31T13:10:40.817+02:00

Nomos Glashütte released the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer – Edition Handelsblatt, a special version created to mark the 80th anniversary of Handelsblatt, Germany’s leading business newspaper.

The watch adapts the worldtimer’s city ring to the world of international finance, replacing five of its 24 city codes with the abbreviations of the stock exchanges in New York, London, Frankfurt, Hong Kong and Tokyo.

The five codes, NYSE, LSE, FWB, HKEX and TSE, are rendered in Handelsblatt’s signature warm orange, giving the otherwise restrained dial a clear graphic accent.

Additional orange details are used for the day-and-night indication of the 24-hour home-time display, while a fine line separating the two phases references the visual language of a newspaper layout.

An orange marker above 12 o’clock identifies the selected time zone, with an orange scale around the perimeter helping to read time differences between locations.

The 40 mm stainless-steel case measures 9.9 mm in height and 48 mm from lug to lug, giving the watch a notably slim profile for an automatic worldtimer.

It is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides and a sapphire crystal case back.

A red warning ring on the crown indicates when it has not yet been fully screwed down; once secured, the case provides water resistance to 10 atm.

The galvanized dial features gray Super-LumiNova on the hour numerals and indexes, while the rhodium-plated hour and minute hands incorporate white luminous inserts.

The hands and dial markings glow blue in the dark.

The case back is engraved “Edition Handelsblatt” alongside an individual serial number, marking the limited-edition collaboration.

Powering the watch is the in-house automatic DUW 3202, Nomos Glashütte’s third neomatik worldtime calibre.

Measuring 4.8 mm in height and 31 mm in diameter, the movement integrates the worldtime mechanism into the gear train, allowing the complication to remain relatively compact. It also features a 24-hour second-time display operated by a single hand.

The sapphire case back provides a view of the movement, including a gold globe on the winding rotor.

The watch is fitted with the Club Sport bracelet in stainless steel, equipped with quick-change spring bars for strap changes without tools. The bracelet measures 20 mm between the lugs.

The Nomos Glashütte Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer – Edition Handelsblatt, reference 792.S1, is available through the Nomos online store and Handelsblatt. It is priced at €4,260 / US$5,580. nomos-glashuette.com

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas in Purple

2026-08-30T08:03:55.437+02:00

IWC introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, reference IW388121, ahead of the 2026 Singapore Grand Prix, which will take place from October 9 to 11 at the Marina Bay Street Circuit, with the race scheduled for October 11.

The fourth official team watch created for IWC’s longstanding Formula 1 partnership with Mercedes-AMG Petronas combines a 41 mm Grade 5 titanium case with a deep purple dial inspired by Singapore’s national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim.

The new chronograph continues the design language established by the 2022 team-watch series, combining advanced materials with details in the team’s signature Petronas green.

The purple dial marks the first use of the colour in IWC’s Pilot’s collection and is complemented by green numerals and indexes, while the hands use green luminous material for contrast and legibility.

The dial follows the vertical chronograph layout that has characterised IWC Pilot’s Chronographs for more than four decades. The 30-minute counter is positioned at 12 o’clock, while the combined day and date display sits at 3 o’clock.

The central chronograph seconds hand provides elapsed-seconds measurement, with the small seconds and hacking-seconds function completing the display.

The 41 mm case is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, a material valued in motorsport for its high strength-to-weight ratio, heat resistance and low density.

The brushed case measures 14.5 mm in height and is fitted with a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

A screw-in crown contributes to the 10-bar water resistance, equivalent to 100 metres / 330 feet, while the transparent sapphire case back reveals the movement.

Powering the watch is the IWC-manufactured Calibre 69385, an automatic mechanical chronograph with a column-wheel construction.

Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), the movement contains 33 jewels and provides a power reserve of 46 hours.

Its bidirectional pawl-winding system supplies energy to the movement, while Geneva stripes and circular graining decorate the visible components.

The watch is fitted with a purple rubber strap featuring IWC’s EasX-CHANGE system, which allows the strap to be exchanged without tools, and a titanium pin buckle.

Like its predecessors, the new team watch is intended for use by members of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, including mechanics and engineers trackside and staff at the team’s headquarters in Brackley.

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, reference IW388121, is priced at €9,700 / US$9,200. iwc.com

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 Carbotech combines high-tech with vintage style

2026-08-29T12:16:25.249+02:00

The new Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 combines the collection’s established 1960s-inspired design with a 44 mm case in Carbotech, a lightweight carbon-fibre composite.

The watch pairs the material with a matte black sandwich dial, beige Super-LumiNova, and a three-day automatic movement.

Carbotech is produced by compressing sheets of carbon fibre with PEEK (polyether ether ketone) at high temperature and pressure.

The resulting composite combines a high strength-to-weight ratio with corrosion resistance and, according to Panerai, is 64% lighter than titanium and 80% lighter than steel. Its matte black surface varies according to the orientation of the carbon layers during machining, giving each case a slightly different pattern.

The 44 mm case incorporates a matching Carbotech bezel and measures 14.5 mm thick. A titanium case back with DLC coating closes the case, while the same treatment is applied to the trapezoidal pin buckle.

The screw-down crown is protected by Panerai’s characteristic crown guard, and water resistance is rated to 30 bar, approximately 300 metres / 1,000 feet.

The completed watch weighs around 100 grams, depending on the configuration.

The matte black sandwich dial uses warm beige Super-LumiNova on the Arabic numerals and hour markers, producing a green glow in darkness.

Small seconds are displayed at 9 o’clock, a configuration associated with Panerai’s early professional diving watches.

The date has been omitted, leaving the dial with only the essential indications and reinforcing the instrument-like character of the Luminor Marina.

Powering the watch is Panerai’s automatic P.9010 calibre. Measuring 6 mm thick and comprising 200 components, the movement has 31 jewels, a Glucydur balance and an Incabloc anti-shock device.

It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and provides a power reserve of three days through two series-connected barrels.

The P.9010 also incorporates a stop-seconds mechanism, which halts the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out for precise time setting. Its quick-change mechanism allows the hour hand to be moved forwards or backwards in one-hour increments without stopping the movement or disturbing the minutes, a useful feature when adjusting to a different time zone.

The balance bridge is secured on both sides, while four gold screws on the balance allow fine adjustment of inertia.

For winding, the movement uses an automatic system with two reversing wheels arranged in series, converting the bidirectional motion of the oscillating weight into energy for the mainspring. Panerai specifies 42 turns of the crown for a complete manual wind.

The PAM01707 is supplied with a warm brown vintage-style calf-leather strap with beige stitching, echoing the colour of the luminous material on the dial.

A second black rubber strap is included for use in marine and more active environments. The standard Panerai packaging also includes a screwdriver for changing the buckle.

The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 is priced at €15,200 / US$15,600. panerai.com

Time and Watches

Introducing the Glashütte Original 70s: 1970s aesthetics meet modern performance

Rolex Perpetual Padellone brings an instantaneous complete calendar to the collection

IWC introduces two Ingenieur Automatic Editions for the Ingenieur SL’s 50th anniversary

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve 2026: the 84 nominated timepieces

Review: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture

Hamilton gives the Khaki Field Murph 38 mm a deep blue dial

In pictures: Hublot Big Bang Reloaded

Panerai marks 100 years of its Florence Boutique with two Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni models

Suggested reading:

Louis Vuitton adds five Tambour Spin Time watches to its permanent collection

A. Lange & Söhne expands the 1815 UP/DOWN with a new 37.5 mm size in pink and white gold

Suggested reading:

Piaget Polo Minute Repeater: A new grand complication joins the collection

Suggested reading:

TAG Heuer redesigns the Carrera Chronograph Sport with a new 42 mm case

Alpina Startimer Pilot Solarmetre adds solar technology to the Pilot collection

Baume & Mercier Riviera 10897 and Classima 10898 mark historic racing event

Suggested reading:

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split returns in Platinum

Suggested reading:

Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition features a secret laser-etched mainspring

The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta goes mechanical with the new Handwinding edition

DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 brings Grade 5 Titanium into the permanent collection

Bulgari and Vianney Halter join forces on the Octo Finissimo Dual Time

Suggested reading:

M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese reinterprets the Baladin

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph marks 50 years with a forged carbon case

Suggested reading:

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue

Nomos Glashütte creates a Club Sport Worldtimer for Handelsblatt’s 80th anniversary

Suggested reading:

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas in Purple

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 Carbotech combines high-tech with vintage style

Suggested reading: