Time and Watches

Panerai presents the Submersible Marina Militare GMT PAM01758 and Destro PAM01757

2026-11-11T13:34:12.701+01:00

Panerai expands its Submersible collection with two watches developed in tribute to its long-standing relationship with the Italian Navy: the Submersible Marina Militare GMT PAM01758 and the Submersible Marina Militare Destro PAM01757.

Both revisit design elements associated with the brand’s historical military diving instruments, combining black matte dials, beige luminous material and vintage-inspired brown leather straps with contemporary movements and water resistance to 50 bar (approximately 500 metres / 1,640 feet).

The collaboration between Panerai and the Italian Navy dates back to the 1910s, when the Florentine company began supplying precision instruments for naval operations.

Its work extended beyond watches to include luminous instruments, depth gauges, compasses and equipment supporting naval aviation. The two arrows in the Officine Panerai logo refer to these activities above and below the surface.

The new references continue this association through two different configurations, one adding a practical second-time-zone display and the other reviving the Destro arrangement originally conceived for military divers.

The Submersible Marina Militare GMT PAM01758 is housed in a 42 mm brushed steel case and powered by the automatic P.900/GMT24H calibre.

Measuring 5.2 mm in thickness, the movement is built around a single barrel and a bidirectional winding rotor, providing a power reserve of three days.

It comprises 189 components and 23 jewels, and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).

Its functions include central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, a date display at 3 o’clock and a second time zone indicated by an orange-tipped hand against a 24-hour scale on the rehaut.

The 24-hour format makes it possible to distinguish day from night in the second time zone, while the orange tip ensures that the additional indication is readily identifiable.

A stop-seconds function allows the movement to be halted when setting the time, facilitating precise synchronisation.

The Submersible Marina Militare Destro PAM01757 takes a different approach, with a larger 44 mm brushed steel case and a crown-protecting bridge positioned on the left side, at 9 o’clock.

This configuration was developed for military divers who wore their watches on the right wrist, keeping the crown and its protective structure away from the back of the hand while leaving the left hand free to operate instruments such as a compass or depth gauge.

The model also dispenses with the date, following the functional layout of early Panerai military watches, where the emphasis was placed on hours, minutes, running seconds and elapsed immersion time.

Its small seconds display at 9 o’clock provides an immediate indication that the movement is running.

Powering the PAM01757 is the automatic P.980 calibre, which shares the three-day power reserve and 28,800 vibrations-per-hour frequency of the GMT movement.

Measuring 4.2 mm thick, it comprises 163 components and 23 jewels. A traversing balance bridge is designed to provide greater stability, while the movement undergoes testing in six positions to assess its chronometric performance. It also features a stop-seconds function for precise time setting.

Both watches have black matte dials with beige Super-LumiNova on the hands, hour markers and bezel indications.

The warm tone recalls the appearance of aged luminous material on vintage Panerai dials, where originally white compounds could acquire a beige colour over time.

The unidirectional rotating steel bezels are fitted with matte black ceramic discs, providing a scratch-resistant surface for the elapsed-time scale.

Their one-way operation is an essential safety feature: accidental movement can only reduce the indicated immersion time, rather than extend it.

The screwed steel casebacks are engraved with the Slow Speed Torpedo, the underwater vehicle nicknamed ‘the pig’ and used by Italian naval commandos during operations in the 1940s.

Panerai subjects the assembled watches to individual water-resistance testing, including a pressure test carried out at 25% above the stated rating.

The verification process also includes a thermal test to check for any moisture inside the case. Before assembly, the components undergo quality checks, while representative batches are subjected to additional laboratory testing designed to simulate extended use.

The vintage-inspired styling continues with gold-brown Ponte Vecchio calf leather straps, finished with tone-on-tone stitching and fitted with trapezoidal brushed-steel buckles.

Each watch is also supplied with a black accordion-style rubber strap, providing an alternative more suited to use in the water.

Both references come in Panerai’s standard packaging, made from recycled paper and accompanied by a travel pouch.

The Panerai Submersible Marina Militare GMT PAM01758 is priced at €12,700 (including VAT) / US$13,100 (excluding sales tax), while the Submersible Marina Militare Destro PAM01757 is priced at €12,300 (including VAT) / US$12,700 (excluding sales tax). panerai.com

MB&F LM101 Gabriel Colliard: three miniature worlds in cloisonné enamel

2026-11-10T14:00:04.501+01:00

MB&F brings together independent watchmaking and traditional decorative arts in the new LM101 Gabriel Colliard editions, a series of three watches featuring miniature jungle scenes created by Swiss-based artist and enameller Gabriel Colliard.

The project brings his compositions in cloisonné enamel to the dial and movement architecture of the Legacy Machine 101, with each watch built around a distinct dominant colour.

The LM101 Gabriel Colliard is presented in three editions: Monkey - Blue, Macaw - Red and Crocodile - Green. Each depicts its respective animal in a composition built around the corresponding colour.

Limited to eight pieces per edition, they draw inspiration from the richly decorated enamel dials of the 1950s, while adopting a more contemporary approach to colour.

Rather than relying on a broad multicoloured palette, Colliard uses numerous variations of a predominant hue, combining translucent, semi-opaque and opaque enamels to create depth, contrast and atmosphere.

The collaboration began with MB&F's wish to give an independent artist the freedom to develop his own compositions. Colliard studied fine arts in Argentina before moving to Switzerland in 2003.

After initially working in watchmaking, he trained in enamelling in Limoges, France, and subsequently gained experience in specialist workshops and at Patek Philippe. His background as a painter informs his approach to the medium, which he uses not simply as a decorative technique but as a means of exploring colour, light and composition.

Each dial is produced using the traditional cloisonné technique.

Fine gold wires are bent by hand to outline the animals, leaves and other elements of the scenes, creating small compartments that are then filled with enamel.

The dial is fired repeatedly in a kiln, with successive applications building up the colours and their different levels of transparency.

The process requires considerable precision, as enamel changes appearance during firing and even a small adjustment to a shade can require several further stages of work.

As Colliard puts it, the fire always has the final say. With approximately one composition completed per month, producing all 24 watches is expected to take more than two years.

The artwork also had to accommodate the distinctive three-dimensional architecture of the LM101.

Its large suspended balance wheel and sculptural bridges occupy much of the dial's surface, making the integration of the enamel scenes a particular challenge. Rather than treating these mechanical elements as obstacles, Colliard incorporated them into his compositions.

The project required modifications to the dial plate, which was adapted to accommodate the thickness of the enamel, as well as the removal of the original sub-dials and the extension of their hands.

The result is a composition in which the mechanical structure and the enamel artwork interact.

The decorative work continues on the reverse of the movement, where an enamelled ratchet wheel echoes the colours and motifs of the dial.

Colliard develops the two elements in parallel, creating a visual connection between the front and back of the watch.

The LM101 Gabriel Colliard is housed in a 40 mm platinum case measuring 16.55 mm in height, with sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and water resistance to 30 metres / 100 feet.

The manually wound movement was originally developed by MB&F's in-house engineering team in collaboration with independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, who established its traditional finishing specifications.

For these editions, the calibre has been upgraded to provide a 60-hour power reserve, compared with 45 hours in previous versions.

Comprising 222 components and 23 jewels, the movement features a 14 mm suspended balance wheel fitted with a Straumann double hairspring and operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).

Hours and minutes are displayed at 2 o'clock, while the power reserve indication is positioned at 6 o'clock.

The movement's finishing includes undulating Geneva waves, hand-polished bevels, gold chatons and countersunk blued screws, alongside NAC-treated rear bridges and a rhodium-plated mainplate.

The MB&F Legacy Machine 101 Gabriel Colliard is offered in three eight-piece limited editions: Monkey – Blue, Macaw – Red and Crocodile – Green.

Each piece is fitted with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap featuring a white gold folding buckle cover. Retail pricing is set at CHF 98,000 / €107,000 / US$ 131,000 (excluding taxes). mbandf.com

Hands-on review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre editions

2026-11-09T08:32:48.128+01:00

Omega’s long-standing connection with James Bond, the fictional secret agent also known as 007, takes a dual direction with the latest Seamaster Diver 300M releases.

The brand introduces two distinct versions of its signature dive watch, one dedicated to Bond himself and the other to his nemesis, the Spectre organisation.

Sharing the same technical platform, the watches express their different identities through contrasting dial and bezel designs.

Following our introductory article published last October 5, we had the opportunity to examine the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond (Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004) and the Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre (Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023) side by side.

We are now pleased to share our impressions and photographs.

Both watches are crafted from 316L stainless steel, a material valued for its corrosion resistance and ability to take a high polish.

Their 42 mm cases measure 14.23 mm in thickness, with a 50 mm lug-to-lug distance.

Polished and brushed surfaces alternate across the case, while the lyre-shaped lugs are a characteristic feature of the Seamaster Diver 300M design.

The screw-down crown is protected by crown guards, while a helium escape valve is positioned on the caseband at 10 o’clock.

Its conical shape is distinctive, and Omega’s patented technology allows it to be operated underwater down to its full depth rating.

A helium escape valve is designed for saturation diving, where helium can enter the watch during prolonged exposure to high-pressure environments. As divers return to normal pressure, the valve allows the gas to escape, preventing pressure build-up inside the case that could dislodge the crystal. While not necessary for all diving watches, it is an important feature for watches intended for saturation diving.

Water resistance is rated at 30 bar, equivalent to a depth of 300 metres / 1,000 feet.

The two models are distinguished most clearly by their bezels.

The James Bond edition features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a Grade 5 titanium ring and a diving scale laser-ablated in positive relief.

The Spectre version uses a black ceramic bezel, also with a laser-ablated diving scale.

Both bezels rotate counter-clockwise with 120 clicks.

A domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside protects each dial.

The James Bond edition features a blue aluminium dial decorated with Omega’s laser-engraved wave pattern.

Its skeletonised, polished, and faceted rhodium-plated hands are accompanied by rhodium-plated indexes, all filled with white Super-LumiNova.

The central seconds hand is also rhodium-plated, while the dial markings are transferred in white.

A further detail specific to this version is the Bond family coat of arms at 12 o’clock.

The Spectre edition adopts a darker look, with a black dial featuring a grained finish complemented by skeletonised, polished, and faceted rhodium-plated hands.

In both watches, the hour and seconds hands emit a blue glow, matching the indexes, while the minute hand glows green, in line with the luminous dot at 12 o’clock on the diving bezel.

This colour distinction helps identify the minute hand and the bezel reference in low-light conditions.

Powering both models is the automatic Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806. Operating at 25,200 vibrations per hour, or 3.5 Hz, it provides a power reserve of 55 hours.

The movement features a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring and is designed to resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss.

The sapphire crystal casebacks reveal another difference between the two editions.

The James Bond model has an oscillating weight decorated with a gun-barrel motif, while the Spectre version carries the organisation’s logo.

The engravings are kept in alignment by Omega’s patented NAIAD locking system, named after the water nymphs of Greek mythology.

Both watches are fitted with stainless steel mesh bracelets, secured by a double-folding clasp with security push-pieces.

The lug width is 20 mm, and Omega also offers a range of alternative straps, including its familiar striped NATO options.

The 42 mm case looks well-proportioned on the wrist, with the curved lugs contributing to a balanced overall appearance.

For reference, the wrist shown in our photographs measures 17.8 cm / 7 inches in circumference.

As Master Chronometer-certified watches, both models undergo a testing process approved by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).

The movement first receives chronometer certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), which assesses its precision against a tolerance of −4/+6 seconds per day. The complete watch and its movement then undergo the eight Master Chronometer tests established by METAS, with a precision requirement of 0/+6 seconds per day.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond (Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004) and Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre (Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023) are available individually, each priced at €8,500.

The Bond edition is delivered in a blue presentation box with a push-button opening and the 007 logo, while the Spectre version comes in a black box featuring the organisation’s logo.

The two new models offer an interesting interpretation of the James Bond universe, expressing opposing identities while sharing the same technical foundations.

Both feature substantial diving capabilities, including 300-metre water resistance and Master Chronometer certification under the demanding METAS testing standards.

Their sophisticated movements are complemented by distinctive design elements, particularly the oscillating weights, decorated with a gun-barrel motif on one model and the Spectre logo on the other.

Together, they combine robust technical specifications with carefully considered details that reflect their connection to the world of 007. omegawatches.com

Breguet presents the Classique Souscription in platinum

2026-11-08T08:32:04.648+01:00

Breguet introduces the Classique Souscription in platinum, a new interpretation of the historically inspired single-hand watch that follows the Breguet gold version, winner of the Aiguille d’Or at the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

The new edition retains the design and mechanical architecture of its predecessor, replacing its warm-toned precious-metal case with platinum.

The Souscription takes its name from the innovative sales system introduced by Abraham-Louis Breguet towards the end of the 18th century. Customers could reserve a watch by paying a deposit of 25%, allowing the watchmaker to finance the purchase of materials and production in advance.

This approach also contributed to the development of a more organised form of series production, with approximately 700 Souscription watches made over a period of more than 30 years.

The historical model provided the inspiration for the Classique Souscription presented as part of Breguet’s 250th-anniversary celebrations.

As we explained in our 2025 article on the Classique Souscription in Breguet gold, the wristwatch draws on the original pocket watches’ single-hand display, enamel dial and distinctive movement architecture, reinterpreting these elements in a contemporary wristwatch.

The new version preserves the 40 mm round case, now crafted from platinum. It measures 10.8 mm in thickness, has 21 mm lugs and is fitted with a non-screw-down crown.

The white Grand Feu enamel dial retains the uncluttered layout of the Souscription, dominated by a single flame-blued steel Breguet hand.

Shaped and curved by hand, it indicates the hours and minutes against slightly inclined Breguet Arabic numerals and a circular chemin de fer minute track, with markings at five-minute intervals and larger markers at the hour positions.

The dial also features Breguet’s secret signature, engraved into the enamel using a diamond-point pantograph, a traditional precision tool.

The sapphire caseback provides a view of the hand-wound Manufacture Calibre VS00, whose architecture is inspired by the movement of the original Souscription pocket watches.

Comprising 144 components, the calibre measures 35.2 mm in diameter and 6 mm in thickness.

It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and delivers a power reserve of 96 hours from a single barrel.

Its balance spring is made from Breguet Nivachron, a non-magnetic alloy designed to improve resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations.

The watch is paired with a blue alligator leather strap and a platinum pin buckle. The Breguet Classique Souscription in platinum, reference 2026PT/28/9W6, is priced at €69,000, including VAT. breguet.com

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2026: the Winners

2026-11-07T21:37:16.797+01:00

The jury of the 26th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), held at the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva on 7 November, has chosen the 2026 winners in each category.

The international jury has awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix, the highest distinction honouring the finest timepiece of the year, to Rexhep Rexhepi for the Chronograph Flyback. Congratulations to the entire team at Rexhep Rexhepi.

We list below all the other 2026 prize winners in the various categories.

Time Only: Chopard L.U.C 1860

Essential: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton

Complication: Cleguer Inspiration One

Mechanical Exception: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie

Gemset: Piaget Swinging Pebble

Tourbillon: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2TV

Chronograph: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Calendar and Astronomy: Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage

Sports: Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

Jewellery: Chopard Mystery Nut

Artistic Crafts: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Arty Automata

"Petite Aiguille" (watches with a retail price between CHF 4,500 and CHF 10,000): Otsuka Lotec No.8

Challenge (watches with a retail price equal or under CHF 4,500): Baltic x SpaceOne Seconde Majeure

Mechanical Clock: La Vallée Cosmo

Other special prizes were awarded.

With its ThinKing Mystery, Konstantin Chaykin won the Audacity prize.

The Horological Revelation prize rewarded Dominique Renaud for his Pulse60.

The Iconic Watch prize was awarded to Audemars Piguet for the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 “150th Anniversary”.

Awarded to the the best competing timepiece that stands out for its remarkable precision timekeeping performance and which is officially certified (ISO 3159 standards) by at least an inspection authority, the Chronometry prize went to Ferdinand Berthoud for the Naissance d’une Montre 3.

Finally, the Special Jury prize was assigned to Patek Philippe for the WATCH ART Grand Exhibition.

Read more at gphg.org

Piaget Andy Warhol 'Camouflage' Watch: limited edition inspired by the artist’s iconic portraits

2026-11-06T13:03:19.916+01:00

Piaget unveiled the Andy Warhol 'Camouflage', the second watch created under its collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts.

Limited to 86 pieces, the new model takes inspiration from the American artist’s 'Camouflage' self-portraits of 1986, translating their bold colours and abstract patterns into a dial made from gold and ornamental stones.

The relationship between Piaget and Andy Warhol dates back well before the formal partnership.

A passionate watch collector, the artist owned seven timepieces by the Maison, including the cushion-shaped model now known as the Andy Warhol watch.

Andy Warhol with Yves Piaget and, on the right, two of Warhol's Piaget timepieces

Designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, Piaget’s artistic director at the time, the 45 mm reference 15102 was produced in limited numbers between 1972 and 1977. Following its reinterpretation as the Black Tie Vintage in 2014, the watch became the focus of a licensing agreement with the Andy Warhol Foundation in 2024, allowing Piaget to use the artist’s name and develop an annual series inspired by his work.

The first result was the 'Collage' edition, presented in 2025 with a dial combining pink opal, green chrysoprase and yellow serpentine.

For the 2026 edition, Piaget turns to Warhol’s 'Camouflage' self-portraits, in which the artist explored the dual nature of fame through a vivid camouflage pattern superimposed across his face.

Rather than reproducing the original artwork, the Maison has translated its visual language into a composition of contrasting materials and colours.

The dial combines sodalite and turquoise with satin-finished yellow gold and polished rose gold.

Its 27 individual elements form a geometric arrangement in shades of blue, with the textures of the stones set against the different finishes of the precious metals.

Developing and producing this intricate marquetry required more than 100 hours of work.

The result reflects Piaget’s long-standing interest in combining gold with ornamental stones, a practice that began in the early 1960s and has since become one of the Maison’s recognisable design signatures.

The composition is framed by the collection’s familiar 45 x 43 mm cushion-shaped case, here crafted from rhodium-finished 18-carat white gold.

Its gadroon decoration takes the place of a conventional bezel, creating a sculptural transition between the case and the dial. Dauphine hands indicate the hours and minutes, while a blue alligator leather strap completes the watch.

Inside, the Andy Warhol 'Camouflage' is powered by the Piaget Manufacture 501P1 self-winding movement.

Measuring 20.5 mm in diameter and 3.63 mm in thickness, the calibre comprises 23 jewels and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

Its finishing includes circular Côtes de Genève, a circular-grained plate, bevelled bridges and blue screws, while a tungsten oscillating weight is finished in slate grey.

The caseback is engraved with Andy Warhol’s signature and the individual number of the limited edition. Water resistance is rated to 3 bar.

The Piaget Andy Warhol 'Camouflage' Watch, ref. G0A51242, is priced at €92,000, including VAT.

Produced in 86 examples, the 'Camouflage' continues Piaget’s exploration of the artist’s visual language through its own expertise in precious-metal work and ornamental-stone marquetry. piaget.com

The GPHG 2026 Awards Ceremony LIVE at Time and Watches on November 7th

2026-11-06T08:51:44.714+01:00

The 26th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), a competition that annually rewards the most remarkable contemporary creations and promotes the watchmaking art worldwide, will be held on November 7, 2026.

As a GPHG Supporting Media Partner, Time and Watches will host a livestream of the 2026 Awards ceremony from the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva, with 84 nominated watches competing fro prizes, including the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix.

Join us from 18:30 CET (12:30 PM ET / 9:30 AM PT) to discover the winners. Be sure to bookmark this page.

Bulova revives the Accutron Alpha 314 and adds a bracelet version of the Spaceview 314

2026-11-05T13:46:46.091+01:00

Bulova expands its Accutron collection for 2026 with two models celebrating the history of the brand’s tuning-fork technology: the Alpha 314, a re-edition inspired by one of Accutron’s recognisable designs, and a new version of the Spaceview 314, first reintroduced in 2025 and now offered with a vintage-inspired metal bracelet.

The story of Accutron began in 1960, when its technology replaced the conventional balance wheel with an electronically driven tuning fork. The resulting movement became known for its accuracy, distinctive humming sound and exceptionally smooth seconds-hand motion.

It also marked an important step in the development of electronic timekeeping, preceding the arrival of quartz watches.

In 2025, Bulova brought the technology back with the Calibre Y230, recreating the original mechanism while incorporating modern materials and manufacturing techniques. This hand-assembled movement powers both new models.

The Accutron Alpha 314 combines the Y230 with a case design inspired by Accutron’s historical models. Its asymmetrical, shield-shaped case is crafted from 904L stainless steel.

Measuring 38 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness, it has a bi-finished surface and two different styles of lugs, which give the watch its distinctive profile while accommodating the black leather strap.

Made from padded Italian calfskin, the strap is secured by a foldover deployant clasp with double push-buttons.

The open dial provides an unobstructed view of the movement. A silver-tone chapter ring carries dot-shaped hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova, while the matching hands are also treated with luminous material.

A domed sapphire crystal protects the display and reveals the movement’s finishing, which includes anglage, perlage, Côtes de Genève and frosted surfaces.

At the centre of the Alpha 314 is the hand-assembled Accutron Calibre Y230.

Its tuning fork vibrates at a frequency of 360 Hz, producing the distinctive F-sharp hum and driving the seconds hand in a smooth, continuous motion.

The movement is stated to achieve an accuracy of within two seconds per day. Silicium and Elinvar are among the modern materials used in its construction, with the aim of improving efficiency and durability.

The second model is the Accutron Spaceview 314, whose open dial has long been a defining feature of the design.

For 2026, Bulova adds a vintage-inspired 904L stainless steel bracelet to the 39 mm model. The case measures 13.4 mm in thickness and features straight lugs and a crown positioned at 4 o’clock.

The bracelet follows the “Coffin Link” design, with hexagonal links that were popular during the 1960s and 1970s.

Brushed and polished surfaces complement the case, while the articulated construction is designed to provide a comfortable fit on the wrist.

The Spaceview 314 retains its green dial, with a matching chapter ring carrying luminous hour markers and hands.

A domed sapphire crystal provides a clear view of the movement, which shares the Calibre Y230 and its 360 Hz operating frequency, F-sharp hum and stated accuracy of within two seconds per day.

As for water resistance, both watches are splash-resistant.

The Bulova Accutron Alpha 314 (ref. 26A224) is priced at €5,100 / US$5,990, while the Accutron Spaceview 314 (ref. 26A222) is priced at €5,300 / US$6,390. accutronwatch.com

H. Moser & Cie. expands Heritage collection with two new fumé dial models

2026-11-04T13:29:30.690+01:00

H. Moser & Cie. has expanded its Heritage collection with two new timepieces that pay homage to distinct eras of watchmaking.

The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé draws inspiration from mid-20th-century Moser chronographs, while the Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé evokes early 20th-century pocket watches adapted for the wrist.

Both models translate these historical references through the contemporary mechanical lens of the Schaffhausen manufacture.

Founded in 1828, H. Moser & Cie. frequently draws on its historical archives. The Heritage collection reflects this connection through rounded case silhouettes, slender tapered lugs, and notched crowns that recall early pocket watch conversions.

Directly referencing Moser chronographs from the 1940s and 1950s, the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé features a 42 mm steel case measuring 13.8 mm in height, complete with a notched crown bearing the Moser “M”.

Its sunburst white fumé dial carries the vintage 1947 H. Moser & Cie. logo and a classic two-register layout: a 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock.

A central hand measures chronograph seconds against an outer tachymeter scale.

Distinct blue accents highlight the scale markings, subdial graduations, and Super-LumiNova-filled hour numerals, which pair with luminous sword hands for an instrument-style aesthetic.

Sapphire crystals protect both the front dial and the movement visible through the caseback.

Powering the chronograph is the automatic HMC 220 Manufacture calibre, equipped with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.

Measuring 32 mm in diameter and 8.4 mm thick, the 51-jewel movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour or 3 Hz.

A bidirectional pawl winding system delivers a 3-day minimum power reserve, while the movement is equipped with an original Straumann hairspring, an engraved oscillating weight, and Moser double-stripe decoration.

The watch is fitted with a hand-stitched grey kudu leather strap with matching thread and a logo-engraved steel pin buckle.

Offering a three-hand interpretation of the vintage pocket-watch-to-wristwatch transition, the Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé shares the 42 mm steel case profile, tapered lugs, and 'M'-engraved crown of the chronograph, but with a slimmer 11.1 mm height.

Its sunburst fumé dial comes in a warm espresso-brown hue, framed by a white railway minute track.

Three-dimensional, Super-LumiNova-infused Globolight numerals and luminous sword hands ensure low-light legibility, while a subtle transparent-lacquer logo blends seamlessly into the dial.

Inside beats the automatic HMC 200 Manufacture calibre (32 mm x 5.5 mm).

Operating at 21,600 vph with 27 jewels, it incorporates an original Straumann hairspring with a flat terminal curve, a bidirectional pawl winding system with a 3-day power reserve, and signature Moser double stripes across the bridges and engraved rotor.

A brown kudu leather strap with white hand-stitching and a steel pin buckle completes the ensemble.

The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Chronograph White Fumé (ref. 8220-1200) is limited to 100 pieces and priced at CHF 27,000 excluding VAT.

The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé (ref. 8200-1207) is limited to 200 pieces and priced at CHF 14,500 excluding VAT. h-moser.com

Review: Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Oxblood

2026-11-03T14:00:04.965+01:00

Founded in 1904 in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has built its identity around mechanical watches that combine practical functionality with an independent approach to watchmaking.

The Maison’s history is closely connected to the development of reliable, everyday timepieces, with the Big Crown Pointer Date standing among its most recognisable designs.

First introduced in 1938 as a watch for aviators, the Big Crown was conceived around two distinctive features: an oversized crown that could be operated while wearing flight gloves and a date indication displayed by a central pointer hand.

Almost nine decades later, these elements remain at the heart of the collection, which continues to evolve while retaining its original design language.

Just unveiled by Oris, the Big Crown Pointer Date Oxblood is a variation of this established design, distinguished by an oxblood red dial that gives the familiar configuration a new character.

We had the opportunity to preview the watch and are now pleased to share our live photographs and hands-on impressions.

This version of the Big Crown Pointer Date is housed in a 40 mm multi-piece case crafted from 316L stainless steel, an alloy widely used in watchmaking for its corrosion resistance and suitability for polishing.

Its flowing lines and curved lugs give the case a fluid profile, while a fluted bezel frames the domed sapphire crystal, which has an anti-reflective coating on its inner surface.

With a thickness of 12 mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.50 mm, the Oxblood has well-balanced proportions.

On the wrist, it sits comfortably, with the curved lugs helping the case follow the wrist's shape.

This sense of comfort is complemented by the H-link stainless steel bracelet, whose links alternate brushed and polished surfaces.

We particularly liked the way its construction integrates with the case, giving the watch a more substantial presence than the traditional leather-strap versions of the Big Crown Pointer Date.

An Oris-developed triple folding clasp with double safety push-buttons secures the bracelet. The lug width is 20 mm.

For reference, the wrist shown in our photographs measures approximately 17.8 cm (7 inches).

The oversized stainless steel crown is screw-down, contributing to the watch's water resistance of 5 bar.

Its pronounced fluting provides a secure grip when winding and setting the watch, while the Oris logo is engraved on its outer surface.

The oxblood red dial is the most distinctive element of this version. Its deep, warm tone gives the watch a different visual character while preserving the familiar Big Crown Pointer Date layout.

Applied Arabic numerals stand above the dial surface, adding depth and definition to the display.

Super-LumiNova is applied to the central hour and minute hands, the raised Arabic numerals and the small triangular hour markers along the outer track, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions.

The date is indicated by a fourth central hand with a red tip, which points to the date scale running around the dial's periphery.

This pointer-date arrangement is one of the collection's defining features, dispensing with a conventional date aperture in favour of a scale that makes use of the entire circumference of the dial. The red tip also provides a clear visual reference to the date indication.

Turning the watch over, the stainless steel caseback is secured by screws and incorporates a see-through mineral glass window, offering a view of the movement.

Powering the watch is the Oris Calibre 754, an automatic mechanical movement measuring 25.60 mm in diameter. Based on the Sellita SW200-1 architecture, it operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and contains 26 jewels. Its power reserve is approximately 41 hours.

The movement is visible through the caseback, with the red oscillating weight providing an especially noticeable detail. Its colour brings a vivid accent to the movement view and adds to the visual appeal of the watch when seen from the back.

The calibre drives central hours, minutes and seconds, together with the pointer-date display. The date mechanism provides an instantaneous change, while the movement also incorporates a date corrector, fine timing adjustment and a stop-second function.

Once the screw-down crown has been released, it can be used for manual winding. Pulling it out to the first setting position allows the date to be adjusted, while the second position stops the seconds hand and enables precise time-setting.

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Oxblood, reference 01 754 7798 4038-07 8 20 06, is priced at CHF 2,000 / €2,000 / US$2,400.

We particularly enjoyed this version of the Big Crown Pointer Date. The oxblood dial gives the familiar design a strong visual identity, while the stainless steel H-link bracelet changes its character from the more traditional leather-strap configurations.

Together with the oversized crown and the distinctive pointer-date display, it makes for an appealing interpretation of one of Oris's best-known designs. oris.ch

L.Leroy Vox Temporis: a different way to experience time

2026-11-02T13:12:36.031+01:00

The L.Leroy Vox Temporis takes an unconventional approach to time display, combining a rotating dial and a fixed arrow-shaped hand with the acoustic indication of a minute repeater.

Part of the Osmior collection, the watch displays the hours visually, while the exact time can be heard on demand through the striking mechanism.

Its name, Latin for “Voice of Time”, reflects this combination of visual and acoustic indications, bringing together a hand-wound movement with a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon.

The design draws on a historical L.Leroy tact watch made in 1810 for the Prince of Hesse, now preserved at the Patek Philippe Museum. That timepiece allowed its owner to read the hours and half-hours discreetly by touch, using diamonds and pearls arranged around the case.

Created at a time when electric lighting was not yet available, it offered a practical way of consulting the time without relying on a conventional dial. The same interest in alternative ways of reading time has continued in the Maison’s contemporary creations, including the Bal du Temps model from 2025.

The Vox Temporis revisits this idea through a 43 mm Officer-style case, available in 18-carat 5N red gold, platinum or Grade 5 titanium.

The case measures 14.74 mm in thickness, including the front crystal and hinged back cover, and has a polished domed bezel.

A fluted crown and a discreet repeater slide integrated into the case band between 8:30 and 9:30 complete the profile. The front and rear are protected by sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment, while the water resistance is rated to 3 ATM.

The hinged protective cover is reminiscent of historic pocket watches and can be personalised on request. Beneath it, a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement and its finishing.

The ring securing the rear crystal combines polished surfaces with sandblasted sections and polished relief engravings, interrupted by six visible fixing screws bearing the model’s identification details.

The dial follows a deliberately minimal approach, with no logo or conventional minute markers. Its radial guilloché flinqué pattern is covered by translucent varnish, creating depth and reflections that change with the light.

Rather than moving across the dial, the arrow-shaped hour hand remains fixed at the peripheral pivot point while the dial rotates beneath it.

The hours are therefore indicated by the position of the dial relative to the hand, while the quarter-hours and minutes are communicated acoustically by the minute repeater.

The three versions are distinguished by their case materials and dial colours.

The 18-carat 5N red gold model, reference LL301/1, has an anthracite dial with a gilded hour hand.

The platinum version, reference LL302/1, pairs a blue dial with a silver-toned hand.

In the Grade 5 titanium model, reference LL303/1, a silver dial is matched with a blue hand treated using ALD technology.

All three are fitted with alligator leather straps, available in black, dark navy blue or brown, and a matching open-worked folding clasp bearing L.Leroy’s interlaced double-L emblem.

Inside, the hand-wound L601SQR calibre is developed and manufactured in Geneva exclusively for L.Leroy. Comprising 321 components and 29 jewels, it operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and provides a power reserve of 90 hours from a single barrel.

Its variable-inertia balance wheel is fitted with a flat balance spring and works with a Swiss lever escapement.

The minute repeater operates on two gongs struck by two hand-finished hammers. It distinguishes the hours, quarter-hours and minutes through different chimes, allowing the wearer to hear the time on demand by operating the slide on the case band.

The hammers are visible through the sapphire caseback, where their mirror-polished surfaces can be seen alongside the movement’s single rhodium-plated bridge, which has frosted decoration and hand-finished bevels. Polished screw heads and carefully finished edges complete the movement’s decoration.

The second complication is a flying tourbillon, composed of 76 parts and making one complete rotation per minute. Supported from below without an upper bridge, the cage appears suspended within the movement.

The L.Leroy Vox Temporis has been nominated in the Artistic Crafts category of the 2026 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, whose awards ceremony will be held in Geneva on 7 November 2026.

Produced in a limited edition of 15 pieces in total across the three case materials, it is priced at CHF 265,000 in Grade 5 titanium, CHF 290,000 in 18-carat 5N red gold and CHF 320,000 in platinum. montres-leroy.com

Joia de Baume & Mercier, five interpretations of feminine watchmaking

2026-11-01T08:25:09.723+01:00

The Joia collection revisits Baume & Mercier’s long-standing relationship with women’s watchmaking through five 28 mm models.

The range comprises polished stainless steel cases with variations in 4N PVD gold-tone details, diamond settings and bracelet or strap designs.

Combining a compact round case with Roman numeral hour markers and leaf-shaped hands, Joia draws on the Maison’s heritage of jewellery watches while adopting a contemporary design.

Baume & Mercier’s history with women’s timepieces dates back to 1918, when Paul Mercier joined William Baume to establish the Maison. At a time when women were gaining greater independence and taking on new roles in society, the company recognised their growing interest in watches as objects of both function and personal expression.

Its early creations included elaborate jewellery watches, described in the 1920 Davoine General Indicator of Watchmaking as “haute Fantaisie pour Dames”.

This approach continued through subsequent decades, with designs ranging from gold jewellery pieces to cuff watches incorporating mother-of-pearl, onyx, lapis lazuli and turquoise.

A vintage 1980s Baume & Mercier jewelry timepiece in 18k white gold, featuring a diamond-set bezel, linen-textured dial, and integrated bark-finish bracelet

The Joia collection draws on this tradition through a 28 mm round case and a combination of polished surfaces, precious details and classical dial elements.

All five models are powered by the quartz Ronda 751 movement, which provides an autonomy of approximately five years.

They are water-resistant to 5 ATM and feature a crown set with a black agate cabochon.

The solid case back is also polished, while the interchangeable straps and bracelets can be removed without tools.

The reference 10847 features a polished stainless steel case and a silvery sun-satin dial with Roman numerals and 4N gold-tone leaf-shaped hands. It is paired with a midnight blue calfskin strap.

With a similar dial configuration, the reference 10848 is distinguished by its integrated three-row bracelet, made of H-shaped steel links with alternating satin and polished finishes.

The silvery sun-satin dial is paired with Roman numerals and 4N gold-tone hands.

The 10849 pairs a polished stainless steel case with polished 4N PVD steel details.

Its silvery sunburst dial features Roman numerals and black transfer leaf hands, while a black calfskin strap completes the design.

The reference 10896 combines a polished stainless steel case with a polished 4N PVD bezel. Its silvery sun-satin dial features Roman numerals and 4N gold-tone leaf hands, matched with an integrated three-row steel bracelet.

Five central links on each side are finished in 4N PVD, creating a two-tone effect.

At the more jewellery-oriented end of the collection, the Joia 10850 features a polished steel case set with 40 diamonds.

Its silvery satin-finished dial is decorated with a criss-cross pattern, Roman numerals and black transfer leaf hands. The watch is fitted with a steel bracelet featuring an embossed flattened-link decoration.

The Baume & Mercier Joia models are priced at €1,350 for the reference 10847, €1,450 for the reference 10849, €1,550 for the reference 10848, €1,700 for the reference 10896 and €4,400 for the diamond-set reference 10850. baume-et-mercier.com

Laurent Ferrier adds an Iceberg dial to the Grand Sport Tourbillon in titanium

2026-10-31T13:36:26.421+01:00

Laurent Ferrier introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Iceberg, a new version of its sport-chic tourbillon watch featuring a Grade 5 titanium case and integrated bracelet, paired with an opaline white dial with subtle blue nuances.

Introduced in 2019, the Grand Sport collection brings together two themes closely associated with Laurent Ferrier: motor racing and Haute Horlogerie. The former racing driver finished third overall at the 1979 24 Hours of Le Mans, driving a Porsche 935 Turbo alongside François Servanin and François Trisconi.

The collection has since evolved through several editions, including the stainless steel models of 2019 and 2020, the 5N red gold Golden Brown of 2022 and the titanium Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit, presented in 2023.

The Iceberg edition brings a new colour palette to the collection.

Its opaline white dial features delicate blue reflections, complemented by applied drop-shaped hour markers and Assegai-shaped hour and minute hands, all crafted in 18K white gold with a ruthenium treatment.

White Super-LumiNova provides visibility in low-light conditions. At 6 o’clock, the small seconds display has a circularly snailed finish, while the words “Tourbillon Grand Sport” are transferred tone-on-tone beneath the central hands.

As with previous models, the tourbillon remains hidden from the dial side and can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back.

The 44 mm case measures 13.40 mm in thickness and combines a cushion-shaped bezel with a tonneau-contoured middle. Circular satin-brushing on the bezel, vertical and horizontal brushing on the case middle, and polished edges create contrasting surfaces inspired by automotive bodywork.

A gently domed sapphire crystal follows the case contours, while the screw-down case back reveals the movement. Water resistance is rated to 100 metres / 330 feet.

The integrated three-link bracelet is also crafted from Grade 5 titanium, with satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels. It is secured by a folding clasp.

The lightweight material helps offset the watch’s substantial dimensions.

Powering the watch is the manually wound Laurent Ferrier calibre LF619.01. Measuring 31.60 mm in diameter and 5.57 mm in thickness, it comprises 188 components, including 23 jewels, and operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz).

It provides an 80-hour power reserve and displays central hours and minutes, with small seconds at 6 o’clock on the tourbillon cage pivot.

The tourbillon combines two opposing balance springs with a variable-inertia balance wheel adjusted by screws and a Swiss lever escapement.

The bridges feature horizontal satin-brushing and ruthenium treatment, while the tourbillon cage bridge is hand-finished with mirror-polished surfaces and 30 internal angles. The winding mechanism incorporates a long-blade click inspired by nineteenth-century chronometric constructions.

The ball-shaped crown, a signature detail of Laurent Ferrier watches, provides a comfortable grip when winding.

The Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Iceberg (ref. LCF044.T1.C3GC1) is priced at CHF 175,000, excluding taxes. laurenteferrier.com

Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur: two dials, two movements

2026-10-30T10:04:46.408+01:00

Louis Erard and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter present the Futur Antérieur, a new collaborative model inspired by Halter’s distinctive Antiqua.

Available in Gold and Silver versions, the watch introduces a stainless steel case construction that houses two separate dials, each powered by its own automatic movement. Both versions are limited to 178 pieces.

Following their 2024 collaboration on Le Régulateur II, the two partners once again draw on the design language of the Antiqua, known for its riveted, porthole-like bezels and unconventional display.

The new watch reinterprets these elements in a different case architecture, with two raised bezels framing separate indications: one for hours and minutes, and the other for seconds.

Each dial has its own crown, decorated with six polished yellow-gilt rivets, while each bezel is visually secured by twelve matching rivets.

The stainless steel case measures 38 mm in width and 44 mm in length, with a thickness of 8.85 mm.

It is assembled from 67 components and combines circular brushing on the front, vertical brushing on the sides and polished chamfers along the edges.

Two sapphire crystals, each treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides, cover the dials. The solid case back is engraved with the collaboration name and individual edition number.

Water resistance is rated to 5 bar, equivalent to 50 metres / 165 feet.

The two versions differ primarily in their dial finishes and straps.

The Futur Antérieur Gold features yellow-gilt dials with grained baseplates, circular-brushed outer rings and polished chamfers, paired with black transfers and a black ostrich leather strap.

The Futur Antérieur Silver uses rhodium-plated dials with the same grained and circular-brushed finishes, combined with a blue ostrich leather strap.

Both models feature Vianney Halter’s signature blued steel hands.

Powering the two indications are two automatic Sellita SW100 movements, each measuring 17.2 mm in diameter and 4.8 mm in thickness. Both operate at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and use 25 jewels.

Their oscillating weights are decorated with Côtes de Genève and engraved with the Louis Erard logo. The power reserve is typically 42 hours, with a minimum of 38 hours. One movement drives the central hours and minutes hands, while the other operates the central seconds hand.

The textured ostrich leather straps have tone-on-tone stitching, black grained calfskin linings and quick-change spring bars. They are secured by stainless steel pin buckles with brushed and polished surfaces.

The name Futur Antérieur refers to the French grammatical tense used to describe something that will have happened.

It reflects the collaboration’s combination of a design associated with Halter’s earlier work and a new construction developed with Louis Erard.

The Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Gold (ref. 22243AA01.BOA02) and Futur Antérieur Silver (ref. 22243AA07.BOA05) are each limited to 178 pieces and priced at CHF 4,950, excluding taxes. A Duo Set containing both versions is also available in a limited edition of 78 sets, priced at CHF 9,900, excluding taxes. louiserard.com

Glashütte Original Senator Aventurine Art Nouveau Green and Art Déco Blue

2026-10-29T13:03:07.835+01:00

Glashütte Original takes inspiration from Art Nouveau and Art Deco for two new Senator Aventurine models: the Art Nouveau Green in red gold and the Art Déco Blue in platinum.

The first pairs the warmth of a precious red gold case with a deep green dial, while the second is crafted from cool platinum and dressed in an icy blue shade.

Both creations reveal a remarkable sense of depth and luminosity, offering a fresh, contemporary interpretation of the aesthetic codes that defined these two historic movements.

The dawn of the 20th century was marked by unprecedented technological progress, as industrialization, electricity, and modern transportation rapidly transformed daily life. Flourishing between 1890 and 1910, Art Nouveau responded with an artistic return to nature, celebrating organic forms and flowing contours.

By contrast, the Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s captured the speed and dynamism of a new era through sharp geometric forms and pronounced symmetry. This period of artistic evolution coincided with a pivotal turning point in Glashütte, where traditional pocket watch traditions gave way to modern wristwatches that embodied the spirit of the age.

Today, these two new Senator models honor that shared history: green evoking Nouveau’s bond with nature, and blue capturing Deco’s enduring spirit of progress.

Glashütte Original channels these artistic influences through the medium of aventurine glass, a material originally created in 17th-century Murano, Venice, when glassmakers added metal oxides to molten glass to form glistening particles.

Derived from the Italian "a ventura," meaning "by chance," the random distribution of these metallic inclusions ensures that no two dials are identical.

A black lacquer coating applied to the reverse of each thin disc adds striking optical depth to the shimmering surface.

Housed in balanced 40 mm cases measuring 10.2 mm in height, both watches are driven by the automatic in-house Calibre 36-16.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), this movement delivers a 100-hour power reserve via a single mainspring barrel and incorporates an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring.

As part of Glashütte Original's Atelier commissions, each watch is assembled in its entirety by a single master watchmaker.

Through the sapphire crystal case back, one can admire traditional Saxon finishing touches, including Glashütte stripe decoration on the three-quarter plate, a hand-engraved balance cock, sunburst finishing on the winding wheels, and a skeletonised rotor featuring the brand's double-G logo with a 21-carat gold oscillating weight. Water-resistance is rated at 50 metres / 165 feet.

The Glashütte Original Senator Aventurine Art Nouveau Green (ref. 1-36-16-41-05-01) is fitted with a brown Louisiana alligator nubuck leather strap and a red gold pin buckle. It retails for €35,800.

The Senator Aventurine Art Déco Blue (ref. 1-36-16-40-03-01) comes with a blue Louisiana alligator leather strap and a platinum pin buckle, and is priced at €37,800.
glashuette-original.com

Sylvain Pinaud 30s Tourbillon, asymmetric design and a 30-second rotation

2026-10-28T12:40:50.635+01:00

The latest creation by independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud, the 30s Tourbillon combines an asymmetric dial layout with a rapidly rotating tourbillon and a manually wound movement developed and assembled in-house.

Following the design language established by the Origine, the watch combines an asymmetric dial layout with a rapidly rotating tourbillon and a manually wound movement developed and assembled in-house.

The design is built around a balance between proportions, contrast and legibility. The dial’s asymmetric composition places the 30-second tourbillon at the centre of attention without overwhelming the other indications.

Black polished steel components contrast with finely grained surfaces, creating different reflections across the layered display. The round case measures 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in thickness, dimensions intended to make the watch suitable for everyday wear.

The three variations differ in their case, movement and dial configurations.

The first combines a titanium case and movement with a silver dial, a white agate centre and black hands, giving the watch a lighter, contemporary appearance with a technical emphasis.

The other two variations use platinum cases and movements crafted from nickel silver and rose gold. One pairs a black dial with an onyx centre and rose gold hands, while the other features a white dial with a white agate centre and blued steel hands.

The tourbillon cage completes one rotation every 30 seconds.

Made from titanium, it is designed to reduce weight by approximately 20%, improving mechanical efficiency while balancing inertia, rotation speed and movement frequency.

The balance wheel measures 9.1 mm and features variable inertia and a Phillips curve balance spring.

Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), the movement combines this regulating system with a double-barrel construction that provides a remarkable power reserve of 100 hours.

The watch displays hours, minutes and seconds, with a zero-reset mechanism integrated into the large seconds indication to facilitate precise time setting.

The movement can also be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback, which reveals an architecture conceived around the mechanical components and their finishing.

The components are finished through techniques including fine graining, satin finishing and black polishing. Bridges feature hand-executed bevels with sharp internal angles, while the wheels receive circular brushing and bevelled edges on both sides.

The large barrel bridge on the reverse is treated as a sculptural element, with its anglage worked from the raw edge and polished by hand.

All three variations are fitted with leather straps and have a water-resistance rating of 3 ATM (30 metres / 100 feet). The Sylvain Pinaud 30s Tourbillon is priced at CHF 180,000 before sales taxes.
sylvain-pinaud.com

Audemars Piguet launches The Watch Keepers, its official Certified Pre-Owned service

2026-10-27T19:49:46.560+01:00

Audemars Piguet has introduced The Watch Keepers, a new end-to-end service dedicated to the buying and selling of certified pre-owned (CPO) watches from the Manufacture.

Accessible through a digital platform, the service allows collectors to sell eligible timepieces and discover authenticated watches, extending their lifecycle while maintaining the brand’s standards of quality and verification.

The platform connects buyers and sellers directly with Audemars Piguet, whose watchmakers authenticate each timepiece, cross-check it against the Manufacture’s archives, and assess its condition.

The service is designed to provide verified information throughout the process, drawing on the brand’s access to historical records and its expertise in servicing watches across generations.

To sell a watch, owners must register, verify its serial number online and provide proof of ownership. Eligible timepieces must be at least two years past their first sellout date.

Once received at an Audemars Piguet Customer Service facility, each watch undergoes authentication and condition checks. The Manufacture then prepares high-resolution photographs and a detailed listing, including a five-point grading system covering the aesthetic condition of the case, dial and bracelet.

Sellers can choose between a fixed price and an auction format, while retaining control over the publication date. The watch remains their property and is securely stored until the sale is completed.

Buyers must also register to access transactional features, while the catalogue remains visible to all account holders.

Following a completed sale, each watch is delivered with a travel pouch, a certificate of authenticity and a two-year warranty covering proper functioning.

The digital platform features colour-themed virtual rooms and digital avatars of dedicated Expert Watch Keepers, who provide guidance as users browse available watches, list a timepiece for sale or explore editorial content. Operations are overseen from Audemars Piguet’s headquarters in Le Brassus, in coordination with regional service centres.

The service will initially roll out in Switzerland and Europe before progressively expanding to other regions. thewatchkeepers.com

Sinn 140 A S Anniversary, celebrating 65 years of watchmaking

2026-10-27T12:46:46.323+01:00

Sinn celebrates its 65th anniversary with the 140 A S Anniversary, a limited-edition chronograph produced in 300 pieces.

The new model continues the history of the 140 series, known for its association with spaceflight, while incorporating the brand’s SZ01 chronograph movement and a range of technical features designed to enhance reliability in demanding conditions.

The 140 series occupies a distinctive place in Sinn’s history. During the D1 Spacelab mission in 1985, physicist and astronaut Reinhard Furrer wore a Sinn 140 S equipped with the Lemania 5100 movement.

The watch became associated with the mission’s demonstration of the practicality of a self-winding mechanical chronograph in the weightless environment of space.

The 140 A S Anniversary builds on this heritage with the Sinn SZ01 self-winding chronograph movement, based on the architecture of the ETA 7750.

Its defining feature is a centrally mounted 60-minute chronograph hand with jumping minutes. Unlike conventional arrangements with a separate minute counter, this configuration allows elapsed minutes to be read directly from the centre of the dial.

A minute scale extending around the dial further supports the rapid reading of measured times.

The chronograph is complemented by a subsidiary seconds display, a date indication and a central chronograph seconds hand.

The yellow chronograph hands provide a clear visual distinction from the other indications, while luminous coating on the chronograph hands, hour and minute hands and dial indices supports legibility in low-light conditions.

An interior pilot’s bezel, equipped with a luminous key mark, provides an additional timing function.

The SZ01 operates at 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, contains 28 jewels and incorporates a stop-seconds function. It is also anti-magnetic in accordance with DIN 8309.

The stainless steel case measures 44 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness, with a lug width of 22 mm.

Its combination of polished and satinised surfaces gives the watch a varied finish, while the black hard coating, applied over a TEGIMENT-treated surface, is designed to improve scratch resistance. The matte black dial maintains the functional appearance associated with the 140 series, with contrasting chronograph indications arranged for clear legibility.

Sinn equips the watch with a sapphire crystal featuring anti-reflective coating on both sides and a screw-fastened case back.

Water resistance is rated to 10 bar, equivalent to a nominal pressure rating of 100 metres / 330 feet.

Additional technical measures address reliability in changing environmental conditions. Sinn’s Ar-Dehumidifying Technology reduces moisture inside the case, helping to prevent fogging and preserve functional reliability.

The crown and push-pieces incorporate the D3-System, designed to improve their sealing against external influences. Together with the TEGIMENT-based black hard coating, these features reflect the engineering-led approach that characterises the brand.

The 140 A S Anniversary is supplied with a black-coated stainless steel bracelet with a satinised finish and an additional black-and-yellow cowhide leather strap.

The contrasting yellow accents of the leather strap echo the chronograph hands, offering an alternative to the more uniform appearance of the bracelet.

The Sinn 140 A S Anniversary is limited to 300 pieces and is priced at €5,490. sinn.de

Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue, new dial and new calibre

2026-10-26T12:38:01.175+01:00

The new Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue combines a light blue metallic dial with a newly developed hand-wound movement.

Crafted from stainless steel, reference 1121 is the first model from the Glashütte manufacture to be powered by the DUW 4701 calibre, which features a quick-set date and a power reserve of up to 52 hours.

The new dial gives the Metro a different appearance depending on the lighting conditions, shifting from a cool light blue to an almost white tone.

Its metallic finish adds subtle reflections, while the fine minute track, marked by individual dots, preserves the contemporary design language of the introductory model.

The Metro Date Power Reserve was first introduced in 2014 and marked an important technical step for Nomos Glashütte as the first watch to feature the manufacture’s proprietary Nomos swing system, an in-house escapement.

The new Ice Blue edition continues this development with a different movement architecture, while retaining the collection’s emphasis on clean lines and functional indications.

The stainless steel case measures 37 mm in diameter and 8 mm in height, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 43.6 mm.

A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, while a sapphire crystal case back reveals the movement.

Water resistance is rated to 5 ATM (50 metres / 330 feet), making the watch suitable for everyday exposure to splashes but not intended for swimming.

The dial is galvanised and finished in light blue metallic, with rhodium-plated hands and a light blue seconds hand.

The date and power reserve indications are integrated into the display, adding practical information without disrupting the dial’s balanced layout.

The black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap is fitted with quick-change spring bars and has an 18 mm lug width.

Measuring just 2.8 mm in height and 32.1 mm in diameter, the hand-wound Nomos DUW 4701 calibre operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

The power reserve indicator is positioned directly on the barrel, integrating the indication into the movement’s construction.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the calibre features Glashütte stripes, perlage and temperature-blued screws. With 23 jewels, the movement combines a slim profile with traditional Glashütte finishing and the practical functions required for everyday use.

Nomos also offers the option of a solid caseback, ideal for a personalized engraving.

The Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue, reference 1121, is priced at €3,500 / US$4,500 with a sapphire crystal caseback or €3,280 / US$4,210 with a solid caseback.
nomos-glashuette.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon, now in a 36 mm pink gold case

2026-10-25T08:06:04.624+01:00

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Master Ultra Thin Moon Ref. Q1242521, a new version of its classic dress watch featuring a smaller 36 mm case crafted from 18-carat pink gold.

With its refined proportions and balanced dial layout, the new model draws inspiration from the dimensions of classic round watches of the 1950s.

It retains the moon-phase and date display that define the Master Ultra Thin Moon, combining traditional aesthetics with contemporary mechanical performance.

The Master Ultra Thin collection reflects Jaeger-LeCoultre’s long-standing expertise in the development of slim mechanical watches, building on a history of ultra-thin timepieces that dates to the early 20th century.

The collection combines clean lines and elegant proportions with mechanical movements developed, manufactured and assembled at the Maison’s Manufacture-Atelier in the Vallée de Joux.

The polished 18-carat pink gold case measures 36 mm in diameter and 9.3 mm in thickness.

Its rounded profile, curved lugs and polished bezel give the watch a classic dress-watch appearance, while the warm tone of the gold is echoed by the gilt hour markers and faceted Dauphine hands.

Each hand combines a satin-brushed facet with a polished one, creating contrasting reflections as the watch moves in the light.

The silver-coloured dial features a sunray-brushed finish that contrasts with the pink gold case and the warmer tones of the applied markers.

Its layout is organised around the combined date and moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, which provides a visual focal point while maintaining a clear arrangement of the time indications. The moon appears against a deep blue, starry background, with the dates printed in black around the aperture.

Powering the Master Ultra Thin Moon is Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 925, a 4 Hz self-winding movement developed and produced in-house.

Established as one of the Manufacture’s mainstay calibres, it has been updated over time to improve reliability and precision. In its latest version, it provides a power reserve of 70 hours, allowing the watch to run for nearly three days when fully wound.

The movement is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back. Its finishing includes Côtes de Genève decoration, bevelled bridges and blued screws, while an open-worked winding rotor in 22-carat pink gold adds a further decorative element.

The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap and an interchangeable pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold. Water resistance is rated to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet).

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in pink gold, reference Q1242521, is priced at €24,300 (including VAT) / US$23,200 (before sales tax). jaeger-lecoultre.com

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual, a platinum edition with baguette-cut diamonds

2026-10-24T12:01:00.000+02:00

A. Lange & Söhne marks the 20th anniversary of the Datograph Perpetual with a new limited edition in 950 platinum.

Combining a flyback chronograph with a perpetual calendar and the manufacture’s characteristic outsize date, the new Datograph Perpetual reference 410.136E revisits one of the most technically demanding models in the collection.

It is distinguished by a black dial set with baguette-cut diamond hour markers and an integrated platinum bracelet.

Introduced in 2006, the original Datograph Perpetual was the first A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch to combine a chronograph and a perpetual calendar with an outsize date.

The new edition retains the characteristic arrangement of its indications while introducing a different material and decorative treatment.

The 41 mm case, measuring 13.5 mm in height, is crafted from 950 platinum and paired with a five-row platinum bracelet.

Alternating polished and matte surfaces, together with the chamfered edges of the links, emphasise the properties of the precious metal.

The bracelet is secured by a quick-release deployant buckle in platinum.

The black dial, made of 925 silver, features eleven manually applied baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers. The stones, graded F–G in colour and VVS in clarity, have a combined weight of approximately 0.13 carats.

A pair of diamonds marks 12 o’clock, while the markers at 4 and 8 o’clock are omitted to accommodate the lower positioning of the auxiliary dials, which are finished in rhodié colour to provide contrast against the black background.

The outsize date occupies its familiar framed double aperture at 12 o’clock.

Below the dial’s horizontal centreline, the subsidiary seconds, day-of-week indication and day/night display are arranged at 9 o’clock, while the month, leap-year indication and precisely jumping chronograph minute counter sit at 3 o’clock. The moon-phase display completes the configuration at 6 o’clock.

The hands are made from different materials according to their functions. The hour and minute hands, along with the calendar hands, are crafted from 18-carat gold, while the chronograph minute-counter and subsidiary-seconds hands are blued steel and the chronograph-seconds hand is rhodiumed steel. A tachymeter scale and stop-seconds function complete the indications.

At the heart of the watch is the manually wound Lange manufacture calibre L952.1, comprising 556 individual parts and 45 jewels.

The movement measures 32 mm in diameter and 8 mm in height, and provides a power reserve of 36 hours when fully wound.

It is precision-adjusted in five positions and operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).

Its shock-resistant balance features eccentric poising weights, while the balance spring is manufactured in-house. The precision beat-adjustment system uses a lateral setscrew and whiplash spring.

The flyback chronograph is controlled by a traditional column wheel, which coordinates the switching sequences of the mechanism.

The flyback function allows an ongoing measurement to be stopped and restarted with a single pusher action, while the precisely jumping minute counter ensures clear readings of elapsed time.

The perpetual calendar is designed to display the date, day, month and leap years correctly over decades. Like other perpetual calendars following the Gregorian calendar, it requires a one-day correction on 1 March 2100, when the century year is not treated as a leap year.

The moon-phase display is calculated to deviate from the actual lunar cycle by just one day after 122.6 years, provided the watch continues to run.

The calendar indications and moon-phase display can be advanced together using the rapid-correction pusher at 10 o’clock or adjusted individually through recessed correctors. A safety mechanism prevents accidental activation of the rapid-correction pusher.

The crown is used to wind the movement and set the time, while two pushers operate the chronograph.

Visible through the sapphire-crystal case back, the L952.1 is decorated and assembled by hand. Its plates and bridges are made from untreated German silver, while the balance cock is engraved by hand. Four screwed gold chatons add further traditional detail.

The calibre is assembled twice, allowing the watchmakers to inspect, finish and adjust the components before final assembly. The transparent case back reveals the column-wheel chronograph and the levers required to coordinate the chronograph and calendar mechanisms within the movement’s architecture.

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual reference 410.136E is limited to 50 watches, each identified by an engraved edition number. Price on request. alange-soehne.com

Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition, a tribute to marine conservation

2026-10-23T14:00:02.016+02:00

Oris returns to its ocean conservation initiatives with the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition, a 1,000-piece edition of its dive watch inspired by the underwater ecosystems formed by giant kelp.

Developed in collaboration with award-winning underwater photographer and long-time Oris ambassador Francis Pérez, the watch draws attention to the decline of kelp forests, which play an important role in marine biodiversity, carbon absorption and the production of oxygen.

Found in temperate and cold waters around the world, kelp forests provide food and shelter for fish, invertebrates and marine mammals.

They also absorb carbon and contribute to the ocean’s role in regulating the global climate. However, rising sea temperatures and commercial harvesting have placed these ecosystems under increasing pressure. Pérez, who has spent more than 25 years photographing the underwater world, has witnessed their decline and encouraged Oris to bring greater attention to the issue through a dedicated timepiece.

The watch is based on the Aquis Date 41.50 mm and retains the collection’s established dive-watch architecture. Its multi-piece stainless steel case measures 41.50 mm in diameter, 12.90 mm in thickness and 49 mm from lug to lug.

The case is fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a green ceramic insert with a minutes scale, while a screw-in stainless steel security crown with protective shoulders helps ensure water resistance to 30 bar, equivalent to 300 metres or 1,000 feet.

The defining feature is the ocean-green dial, whose textured surface evokes kelp swaying in underwater currents. Created using a 3D-printed finish, it combines green and golden tones that vary with the light.

The hands and applied hour markers are filled with Super-LumiNova, with golden outlines complementing the dial’s colour palette. A date window is positioned at 6 o’clock.

A domed sapphire crystal, curved on both sides and treated with anti-reflective coating on the inside, protects the dial.

The screw-secured stainless steel case back features special engravings inspired by kelp forests and identifies each watch as part of the limited edition.

The watch is fitted with a multi-piece stainless steel bracelet with three-link construction and alternating brushed and polished surfaces.

It has a 22 mm lug width and is secured by a folding clasp incorporating quick-adjust and quick-change systems for easier sizing and bracelet removal.

Powering the Kelp Forest Limited Edition is the automatic Oris Calibre 733-1. The Swiss-made movement provides central hours, minutes and seconds, together with an instantaneous date display, date corrector, fine timing adjustment and stop-seconds function.

It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and offers a power reserve of 41 hours.

The Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition, reference 01 733 7787 4187-Set, is priced at CHF 2,450 / €2,450 / US$2,950.

With this edition, Oris continues its broader commitment to ocean conservation, using the familiar format of a professional dive watch to draw attention to an ecosystem whose decline has consequences for marine life and the global climate. oris.ch

Jumping Hour watches: The appeal of instantaneous time display

2026-10-22T12:56:31.491+02:00

In recent years, watchmakers across various segments—from major historic manufactures to niche independent creators—have shown a renewed fascination with the Jumping Hour complication.

While A. Lange & Söhne set the modern benchmark for mechanical digital displays in 2009 with the landmark Zeitwerk, the industry at large has increasingly embraced this distinct mechanism in recent years.

By replacing the continuous sweep of the hour hand with an instantaneous jump, the complication challenges classical dial architecture while offering exceptional visual clarity.

Whether through radical openworked geometry, minimalist Art Deco apertures, or innovative mechanical modules, contemporary timepieces are reinterpreting this historical complication for a new generation of collectors.

Below is a selection of notable recent releases that demonstrate the creative vitality driving the jumping hour revival, presented in alphabetical order with links to our dedicated articles.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date
Bringing digital clarity to mechanical watchmaking, the design combines an instantaneous jumping numerals display with a peripheral glass ring date indicator, showcasing German engineering precision.

Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Fusing Art Deco-inspired architectural rigour with contemporary design, the model frames its first automatic jumping hour mechanism within a pink gold case and a black PVD sapphire crystal dial featuring dual apertures.

Baltic SpaceOne & Théo Auffret Seconde Majeure
A creative collaboration pairing a space-age aesthetic with a distinct jumping hour module developed by the independent watchmaker.

Berneron Quantième Annuel
Housed in a refined round platinum case with an innovative cross-architecture movement, the design integrates an intuitive annual calendar layout with a jumping hour display for optimal legibility.

Cartier Tank Guichets
Reviving one of the most iconic vintage designs from 1928, the model reinterprets the silhouette with a pure, window-based digital display that honors Art Deco heritage with timeless elegance.

Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur
Featuring a distinct rectangular architecture reminiscent of early digital wristwatches, the design updates historical regulator-style jumping hour displays with high-contrast modern aesthetics.

Cyrus Ethereal Twin Orbital
An exercise in high-end mechanical complexity pairing a double-axis tourbillon with an orbital jumping hour mechanism, showcasing avant-garde watchmaking at its technical peak.

Czapek Time Jumper
The timepiece channels sophisticated independent watchmaking codes, balancing a minimalist dial aesthetic with a crisp, instantaneous mechanism dedicated to direct-read time.

Louis Vuitton Escale Complications
Traditional craft is elevated by pairing métiers d'art dials with practical high complications, integrating a seamless jumping hour display into a refined travel-oriented collection.

M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese
Created in partnership with the legendary independent watchmaker, the model reinterprets his iconic progressive jumping-hour concept within a vibrant, highly unconventional design.

MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour
Shifting away from signature single-hand layouts to embrace instant readability, the piece offers a clean, instrument-inspired jumping hour presentation with effortless legibility.

TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12
Blending legendary racing heritage with modern mechanical innovation, the chronograph incorporates a piston-inspired jumping hour complication into the unmistakable square case profile.

Perrelet expands the Weekend collection with four natural stone dials

2026-10-21T12:55:46.481+02:00

Perrelet expands its Weekend collection with four new 39 mm models distinguished by dials crafted from natural stones.

Following the previous aventurine and malachite editions, the Swiss watchmaker introduces four variations in turquoise, lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye and black onyx, bringing different colours and natural textures to the collection’s contemporary design.

Each stone dial has its own visual character, shaped by the material’s natural patterns and variations.

The turquoise version stands out for its vibrant blue-green colour, while lapis lazuli introduces a deeper blue, often punctuated by natural golden inclusions.

Tiger’s eye offers warmer brown and golden reflections, whereas black onyx provides a more understated appearance.

The inherent variations in these materials ensure that every dial has a distinctive pattern.

The dial layout remains deliberately restrained to preserve the prominence of the stones.

Slender baton hour markers and polished Dauphine-style hands, all rhodium-plated, provide clear indications of the time without distracting from the natural material.

A date display at 3 o’clock is framed by a silver-toned surround, while a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial and supports legibility.

The four watches share a round stainless-steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter and 9.56 mm in thickness, with a polished and satin-brushed finish that emphasises its contours.

The fluted crown, embossed with the Perrelet logo, completes the case design. Water resistance is rated at 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet), making the watches suitable for everyday use.

A transparent caseback reveals the automatic Perrelet P-321 calibre, manufactured by Soprod, the Swiss movement producer owned by the same group as Perrelet.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement provides a power reserve of 42 hours and drives the hours, minutes and date indications.

Its construction includes an oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings, while the visible finishing features a sunburst decoration, circular graining on the bridges and an openworked rotor.

The Weekend stone-dial editions are delivered with two interchangeable strap options: an integrated stainless-steel bracelet featuring seven links per row, with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces, and a calfskin leather strap embossed with an alligator pattern.

A quick-release system allows the wearer to switch between the two without tools, adapting the watch to different occasions and styles.

All four new Perrelet Weekend models — turquoise (ref. A1300/L), lapis lazuli (ref. A1300/M), tiger’s eye (ref. A1300/N) and black onyx (ref. A1300/O) — have a suggested retail price of CHF 1,590 / €1,590 / US$1,815. perrelet.com

Art Deco on the wrist: Hamilton’s new American Classic Cushion collection

2026-10-20T12:27:43.624+02:00

A century after Hamilton introduced its first cushion-shaped watches, the American Classic Cushion collection revisits the brand’s distinctive designs of the 1920s, bringing their Art Deco character into a contemporary mechanical watch.

Inspired by Hamilton’s Cushion Plain and Cushion Engraved models of 1926, the new collection draws on the geometric forms, architectural lines and distinctive proportions that defined the era.

With their compact, symmetrical cases and refined details, the watches recall a period when wristwatches were becoming not only practical timekeepers but also expressions of personal style.

The collection comprises two case sizes, 30 x 30 mm and 34 x 34 mm, with stainless steel cases available in different finishes, including yellow gold-coloured PVD coating. All models maintain a slim profile of just 8.1 mm.

The 30 mm models include reference H36109710, featuring a beige sandblasted dial with Arabic numerals and Super-LumiNova. It is paired with a black or brown leather strap fitted with Hamilton’s Easy Click system for convenient strap changes. The price is €995 or US$995.

Reference H36109720 features a white enamel dial with Roman numerals and Super-LumiNova, at the same price of €995 or US$995.

Completing the smaller models is reference H36119520, which combines a yellow gold-coloured PVD-coated case with a beige dial. It is priced at €1,095 or US$1,095.

For a larger presence on the wrist, the 34 mm models measure 34 x 34 mm and feature an 18 mm lug width.

Reference H36139520 pairs a yellow gold-coloured PVD-coated case with a beige dial and Arabic numerals. It is priced at €1,095 or US$1,095.

Reference H36129730 features a black dial with Arabic numerals, while reference H36149710 combines an engraved case with a silver sunray-finished dial and Arabic numerals. Both models are priced at €995 or US$995.

All variants feature a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and a screw-secured sapphire exhibition case back. Water resistance is rated at 5 bar, equivalent to 50 metres or 165 feet.

Powering the collection is the H-42, a new hand-wound mechanical calibre based on the ETA 7001, an architecture that traces its roots to the Peseux 7001 introduced in the 1970s.

Its slim construction allows Hamilton to retain the elegant proportions of the original cushion design while incorporating a contemporary mechanical movement.

The H-42 incorporates a Nivachron balance spring and features a small seconds display at 6 o’clock. It provides a power reserve of 57 hours, bringing modern-day practicality to a design rooted in Hamilton’s watchmaking heritage.

With the American Classic Cushion, Hamilton revisits a defining chapter in its design history. Art Deco-inspired geometry, compact proportions and varied dial treatments meet a slim, hand-wound movement, giving the collection a contemporary identity while retaining the distinctive character of the 1926 originals. hamiltonwatch.com

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