Time and Watches

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: 10-day power reserve and business calendar

2026-07-22T13:39:33.105+02:00

Following the introduction of the renewed Artelier collection with the Artelier Complication presented in May, Oris has also reintroduced the Artelier Calibre 113, bringing back one of the Manufacture's most distinctive in-house movements after its recent appearance in the Year of the Horse Limited Edition.

While the Artelier Complication combined moon phase, dual time and pointer date indications within a slimmer, more contemporary case, the new Artelier Calibre 113 focuses on one of Oris's most technically distinctive in-house movements.

First introduced as part of the brand's manufacture calibre family, Calibre 113 remains notable for its unusual combination of a 10-day power reserve, a complete business calendar and a patented non-linear power reserve indicator.

The watch is housed in a 43 mm multi-piece stainless steel case measuring 13.10 mm thick with a lug-to-lug length of 50 mm.

Its design follows the contemporary Artelier aesthetic introduced earlier this year, with clean lines and restrained proportions intended to emphasise the dial and its complications.

A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inner surface protects the display, while the screw-down exhibition caseback reveals the movement. Water resistance is rated to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet).

Two dial versions are offered. The first features a classic white finish, available either on a dark brown cordovan leather strap (ref. 01 113 7806 4051-07 5 22 96FC) or a multi-link stainless steel bracelet (ref. 01 113 7806 4051-07 8 23 79PS).

The second pairs a rich green dial with the dark brown cordovan leather strap (ref. 01 113 7806 4057-07 5 22 96FC).

In both versions, applied hour markers and Super-LumiNova-coated hour and minute hands ensure good legibility without compromising the watch's understated appearance.

The display is dominated by the distinctive arrangement of Calibre 113's indications. Hours and minutes are shown centrally, while a small seconds subdial is positioned at 9 o'clock together with the date aperture.

The day is displayed in a separate window at 12 o'clock, and central hands indicate both the month and the week of the year, creating a complete business calendar.

All calendar functions are adjusted through the crown, avoiding the need for additional correctors integrated into the case.

One of the movement's defining features is the patented non-linear power reserve indicator positioned at 3 o'clock.

Unlike conventional reserve displays that divide the remaining energy evenly, Oris's mechanism becomes progressively more precise as the movement approaches the end of its autonomy, allowing the wearer to monitor the final portion of the reserve with greater accuracy and know exactly when rewinding becomes necessary.

Already familiar from the Year of the Horse Limited Edition, the hand-wound Oris Calibre 113 measures 34 mm in diameter (15 lignes) and operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

Equipped with 38 jewels, a fine timing device and a stop-seconds mechanism for precise setting, it delivers an impressive power reserve of 240 hours, or 10 days, from a single winding.

The new Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is presented in a dedicated wooden presentation box and benefits from the brand's extended five-year warranty upon registration through MyOris.

The retail price is €6,150 / US$7,600 on a leather strap or €6,350 / US$7,800 on a stainless steel bracelet. oris.ch

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

A new blue dial for the 41 mm Mido Ocean Star 200

2026-07-21T13:54:48.984+02:00

Mido has introduced a new version of its Ocean Star 200, reference M026.930.11.041.00, a 41 mm mechanical diving watch that combines the collection's proven technical specifications with a fresh blue dial accented by the brand's signature orange details.

Part of a collection whose origins date back to 1944, the Ocean Star continues Mido's long tradition of producing water-resistant watches, a field in which the brand had already established a strong reputation during the 1930s with its Aquadura sealing system.

The latest model remains faithful to the practical philosophy of the collection, offering the essential features expected of a modern dive watch while maintaining balanced proportions suitable for everyday wear.

Crafted from stainless steel with alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes, the case measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.7 mm of thickness with a lug-to-lug length of 47.03 mm.

It is fitted with a screw-down crown and screw-in caseback to ensure water resistance to 20 bar (200 metres / 660 feet).

The solid caseback is decorated with a polished relief engraving of a starfish, the longstanding emblem of the Ocean Star collection, while the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

The unidirectional rotating bezel features a black aluminium insert with large silver-toned numerals and a luminous reference marker at 12 o'clock.

Rotating only counter-clockwise, it provides a secure method for monitoring elapsed dive time while preventing accidental underestimation of immersion time.

The blue grained dial is designed to maximise legibility through strong contrasts.

Polished nickel-plated applied hour markers and the diamond-cut, tri-faceted hour and minute hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring clear visibility in low-light conditions and underwater.

Mido's orange appears on the tip of the central seconds hand and in the "Caliber 80" inscription.

A sandblasted flange carrying the minute track adds depth to the display, while the day-date aperture at 3 o'clock completes the ensemble.

Powering the Ocean Star 200 is the automatic Mido Caliber 80, based on the ETA C07.621.

Equipped with a Nivachron balance spring for enhanced resistance to magnetic fields and shocks encountered during everyday wear, the movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and delivers a power reserve of up to 80 hours.

The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet combining satin-brushed outer links with polished centre links.

A folding clasp with an integrated diving extension allows comfortable wear over a wetsuit, while Mido's quick-change system enables the bracelet to be removed without tools for easy strap changes.

The new Mido Ocean Star 200, reference M026.930.11.041.00, is priced at €950 / US$980. midowatches.com

Review: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004

2026-07-20T13:36:46.490+02:00

Today marks the anniversary of the Apollo 11 lunar landing—the historic 1969 mission that cemented the Omega Speedmaster’s status as the "Moonwatch." Following our weekend feature tracing the technical evolution of this legendary chronograph, today we turn our attention from horological history to current production.

To mark the occasion, we present a hands-on review of the latest addition to the core collection: the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with an inverted panda dial.

When Omega introduced this high-contrast execution earlier this year, it marked a notable addition to the core Moonwatch collection.

While contrasting panda layouts have appeared on the 42 mm Moonwatch in the past—most notably on sought-after limited or regional editions like the 2004 Apollo 11 35th Anniversary, the 2005 Gemini IV, the 2017 Speedy Tuesday, and the 2020 Tokyo Olympics edition—this release marks the first time an inverted panda step dial has been integrated into permanent, unrestricted production.

By making this motorsport-inspired layout a standard option alongside the classic monochromatic model, Omega offers enthusiasts an expressive alternative without the hurdles of limited availability.

Having spent extended time with the watch on the wrist, the immediate takeaway is how the white totalizers reshape the visual balance of the asymmetric case.

Where the traditional matte black dial absorbs light and relies on understated depth, the stark dual-layer contrast sharpens legibility and gives the watch an even sportier presence.

In the following review, accompanied by our original hands-on photography, we take a closer look at the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White in stainless steel (Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004), examining its dial execution, case construction and movement to see how this high-contrast version fits within today's Moonwatch collection.

The watch offers a striking, high-contrast look thanks to its dual-layer step dial: the upper plate is finished in polished black lacquer with rhodium-plated subdial frames, while the subdial bases are finished in contrasting white varnish.

The applied Ω logo, rather than a printed one, adds further depth to the dial under direct light.

The inverted aesthetic is reinforced by a white-printed minute track on the main dial and black-printed tracks within the subdials.

The layout remains classic Speedmaster geometry, with chronograph minutes and hours counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively, and running seconds at 9 o'clock.

All hands and hour markers are rhodium-plated.

The central minutes and seconds hands are subtly domed at their tips to follow the bevel of the step dial, while the counterweight of the central seconds hand features a refined teardrop shape rather than the flat profile of past generations.

Super-LumiNova is applied across the central hands and indices, ensuring high readability in low-light conditions.

The case follows the architecture of the current Moonwatch generation introduced in 2021.

Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the 42 mm asymmetrical case features signature twisted lyre lugs, integrated crown guards, flat-capped chronograph pushers, and a double-bevel caseback.

Differing from the classic Hesalite and sapphire Moonwatch models equipped with aluminium bezels, the steel bezel here features a durable black ceramic insert displaying a tachymeter scale in white enamel.

It retains the historic "Dot Over Ninety" (DON) and "Diagonal to Seventy" markings, honoring early Speedmaster reference points prized by collectors.

The dial is protected by a box-shaped, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating on its inner surface.

Total thickness measures 13.54 mm, making it only slightly taller than the standard sapphire-sandwich Moonwatch at 13.18 mm. Water resistance is maintained at 5 bar (approximately 50 metres / 165 feet).

Turning the watch over, the sapphire crystal caseback offers an unobstructed view of the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, the manual-wind evolution of the long-standing Calibre 1861.

First introduced in 2019 for the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition, Calibre 3861 incorporates non-ferrous alloys, a Co-Axial escapement, and a silicon balance spring.

These upgrades enable Master Chronometer certification, subjecting the fully cased watch to rigorous testing by METAS for precision, power reserve, and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss.

Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), Calibre 3861 delivers significantly improved chronometric performance, with an average daily rate of 0/+5 seconds compared to the +10/-1 seconds specified for its predecessor 1861. It also increases the power reserve to 50 hours.

The movement also offers a hacking seconds function, allowing the balance wheel to stop when the crown is pulled for accurate time setting.

In accordance with the 3 Hz operational frequency, the dial's track is split by 3 divisions per second, aligning mechanical beat frequency precisely with visual readout capability.

On the wrist, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Black and White is fitted with the current five-arched-link bracelet, featuring an alternating pattern of satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

The links are secured using a screw-and-pin construction rather than the friction pins employed on earlier generations.

The clasp features a satin-finished cover decorated with vertical grooves and a polished Omega logo.

Measuring 15 mm at the buckle (tapering from 20 mm at the lugs), it integrates oval pushers and Omega's tool-free comfort-release extension system, allowing for quick micro-adjustments as wrist size fluctuates throughout the day.

For visual reference, the wrist featured in our accompanying photography measures 17.8 cm (7 inches).

Ultimately, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White does not aim to replace the iconic monochromatic model. Instead, it sits alongside it as a sportier, highly legible alternative.

By bringing this two-tone graphic layout—once restricted to rare anniversary or regional editions—into standard production, Omega makes a previously exclusive aesthetic available as part of the permanent collection, without requiring collectors to navigate scarcity or secondary-market premiums.

While the standard black model offers classic space-age utility and the recent white dial variant presents a bright, uniform aesthetic, this inverted panda execution delivers a distinct motorsport edge. Its dual-layer contrast enhances immediate legibility while honouring the chronograph's historic racing roots.

Delivered with a five-year warranty and METAS Master Chronometer certification, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 42 mm Black and White in stainless steel (Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004) is priced at €10,300 / US$10,400. omegawatches.com

Hanhart introduces the new Aquasphere Matte Black dive watch

2026-07-19T08:49:19.929+02:00

Hanhart expands its Aquasphere collection with the new Aquasphere Matte Black, a 42 mm diving watch characterised by its matte black dial and bezel, excellent legibility and robust stainless steel construction.

Designed for both underwater use and everyday wear, the new model features a 42 mm stainless steel case measuring 12.95 mm in thickness and 49 mm lug to lug, with alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes highlighting its dynamic lines.

Integrated lugs milled directly into the case reinforce its distinctive profile, while crown guards protect the screw-down crown engraved with Hanhart's modern "h" logo.

The watch is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating applied to its inner surface.

Water-resistant to 30 bar (300 metres / 1,000 feet) in accordance with DIN 8310, the Aquasphere Matte Black is equipped with a helium escape valve designed for saturation diving.

During prolonged exposure to helium-rich environments, helium atoms can gradually penetrate the case. The valve allows the accumulated gas to escape safely during decompression, preventing excessive internal pressure that could compromise the watch's integrity.

The unidirectional diving bezel features a durable black ceramic insert and rotates through 60 precise clicks, each corresponding to one minute.

Its anti-clockwise rotation ensures that any accidental movement can only indicate a longer elapsed dive time, providing an additional safety margin.

A distinctive red reference marker contrasts with the matte black insert, while the horizontally divided stencil-style numerals reinforce the watch's utilitarian character.

The matte black dial contrasts with the applied hour markers, generously sized hands and silver-coloured rehaut, ensuring excellent readability.

Super-LumiNova C1 GL X2 applied to the hands, hour markers and bezel markings ensures clear visibility in darkness and underwater.

The red-tipped central seconds hand provides an immediate indication that the movement is operating, while the absence of a date display contributes to the clean, symmetrical layout.

Powering the watch is either the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 or the Soprod P024 automatic movement, depending on the production series.

Both calibres operate at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), offer hacking seconds and deliver a power reserve of at least 38 hours.

Regardless of which movement is fitted, every watch is regulated according to the same Hanhart standards at the manufacture in Gütenbach, where each calibre is adjusted by hand to achieve an average daily rate between 0 and +8 seconds across six positions, with no negative rate permitted in the principal positions.

The screw-down solid caseback is decorated with an embossed underwater scene and engraved with the watch's individual serial number.

The Aquasphere Matte Black is available with three different attachment options.

The lightweight Hook Strap offers continuous adjustment and can easily be worn over a wetsuit, while the black FKM rubber strap combines excellent resistance to water, perspiration and heat with a stainless steel folding clasp and quick-release spring bars.

Completing the range is a stainless steel bracelet featuring tool-free micro-adjustment integrated into the clasp, allowing the fit to be adapted easily as wrist size changes throughout the day.

Both the bracelet and the rubber strap can be exchanged without tools thanks to their quick-release systems.

The new Hanhart Aquasphere Matte Black is priced at €1,540 on the Hook Strap (Ref. 777.210-3038), €1,640 on the FKM rubber strap (Refs. 777.210-1020 and 777.210-1022), and €1,740 on the stainless steel bracelet (Ref. 777.210-6428). hanhart.com

Ahead of the anniversary: The evolution of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

2026-07-18T11:59:43.774+02:00

The Omega Speedmaster's history goes back to 1957 when it was introduced as a sports and racing chronograph, complementing Omega's position as the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games.

The "Speedmaster" name was chosen for its tachymeter scale bezel and followed the Omega convention used for other models like the Seamaster, which initially included the Speedmaster line, and the Railmaster.

But it was with the first manned space missions and, in particular, with the 1969 lunar landing that the Speedmaster became so popular worldwide and earned its legendary nickname: the "Moonwatch."

From the historic first reference CK 2915, also known as the "Broad Arrow," up to the current Co-Axial Master Chronometers, we trace the complete evolution of the watch that became the paradigm of the modern sports chronograph.

Ahead of the anniversary of the July 20 Moon landing this Monday, discover our comprehensive chronicle of this iconic timepiece.

Read our feature article "The Omega Speedmaster history"

Coming this Monday, July 20: To celebrate the anniversary of the lunar landing, we will be publishing an exclusive, hands-on review of the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with "Inverted Panda" dial, packed with original, high-resolution photography. Stay tuned!

In Pictures: Piaget Polo Signature Date watch G0A51012

2026-07-17T13:58:10.222+02:00

Introduced in 1979, the Piaget Polo was conceived as a sophisticated timepiece for everyday wear, embodying Piaget's distinctive vision of style, casual elegance and freedom.

Its latest interpretation, which we presented at the time of its launch during Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, marks a further evolution of one of Piaget's most recognisable designs, placing renewed emphasis on one of its defining aesthetic signatures: the gadroon.

We recently had the opportunity to photograph the new Piaget Polo Signature Date watch Ref. G0A51012 at the Pisa 1940 flagship store in Milan, and are now pleased to share the images with our readers (click any image to enlarge).

As Italy's largest watch retailer, Pisa 1940 is well known among international collectors, particularly within the auction community. Over the years, several prestigious watchmakers have created exclusive editions for the historic Milan retailer.

Like other Piaget creations, the Piaget Polo Signature Date can be ordered through Pisa 1940's online platform or directly at its Milan boutique.

Gadroons have been an integral part of Piaget's visual identity since their introduction in 1971. Sculpted or stamped onto dials, they create one of the Maison's most recognisable decorative signatures.

The visual update is immediately evident on the dial, where the gadroons are now executed using an appliqué-style construction that enhances their relief, creating an even richer interplay of light across the silver surface of this reference.

Readability is excellent thanks to the luminescent hands and applied rose gold-coloured hour markers. A trapezoidal date aperture at 6 o'clock completes the display.

The second hand features a counterbalance signed with Piaget’s “P” logo.

The cushion-shaped dial is framed by a round 42 mm stainless steel case, reaffirming the shape-within-a-shape architecture that has long been one of the Piaget Polo's defining design signatures.

At only 9.4 mm thick, the case combines satin-brushed and polished finishes that highlight its refined geometry.

The Polo Signature Date is powered by the self-winding manufacture calibre 1110P, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), it offers a power reserve of approximately 50 hours while displaying the hours, minutes, central seconds and date.

The movement is decorated with circular Côtes de Genève, bevelled bridges, sunburst-brushed wheels, blued screws and a slate-grey oscillating weight adorned with circular Côtes de Genève and engraved with the Piaget coat of arms.

The watch is paired with a self-interchangeable khaki green rubber strap secured by a stainless steel double folding clasp, further enhancing its versatility.

Water resistance is rated to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

Blending refined finishing with everyday versatility, the Piaget Polo Signature Date (Ref. G0A51012) perfectly illustrates the contemporary evolution of one of the Maison's most recognisable collections.

The timepiece shown here was captured at the Pisa 1940 flagship store in Milan and is available through the retailer's boutique and online platform.

More information at piaget.com and pisa1940.com

New Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chronograph PAM01768 and GMT PAM01791

2026-07-16T13:20:02.432+02:00

As preparations continue for the 38th America's Cup, scheduled to take place in Naples in less than a year's time, Panerai has expanded its Luna Rossa collection with two new models developed as part of its partnership with the Italian sailing team, a collaboration that has been ongoing since 2019.

The new Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768 and Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791 represent two complementary approaches to functional watchmaking.

While the Chrono focuses on elapsed-time measurement with a tachymeter scale inspired by sailing applications, the GMT introduces a second time zone in a more compact format while becoming the first Luna Rossa model to feature a stainless steel bracelet.

The collaboration with Luna Rossa has become an important platform for Panerai to further develop its long-standing philosophy of creating purpose-built instruments.

Across the collection, practical complications, advanced materials and technical solutions have been refined through testing in demanding conditions, while maintaining the recognisable design language of the Luminor.

The new Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768 is housed in a 44 mm brushed stainless steel case with a polished bezel and is produced in a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Its closed steel caseback is engraved with the individual edition number, while water resistance is rated to 10 bar (approximately 100 metres / 330 feet), with each watch pressure-tested by Panerai beyond its declared specification.

The chronograph is powered by the automatic P.9210 manufacture calibre, measuring 13¼ lignes in diameter and 6.9 mm thick. Comprising 174 components and 41 jewels, it operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and incorporates a Glucydur balance wheel, an Incabloc anti-shock device and a single barrel providing a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

Panerai also highlights refinements to the automatic winding system intended to improve winding efficiency, while the movement is finished with vertical brushing and blue-varnished details.

The chronograph pushers are positioned on the left side of the case, at 8 and 10 o'clock, preserving the distinctive crown-protecting bridge that defines the Luminor collection.

The central chronograph seconds hand, finished in red and white, works together with the tachymeter scale printed on the rehaut to calculate average speed over a measured distance.

After starting the chronograph at the beginning of a one-kilometre course and stopping it at the finish, the central seconds hand indicates the corresponding average speed directly against the tachymeter scale.

The silver sun-brushed dial incorporates rhodium-toned subdials with concentric azurage finishing, a decorative technique based on fine circular grooves that adds visual depth while recalling the movement of waves.

White Super-LumiNova X2 is applied to the hands and hour markers to maximise legibility, while the grey small seconds hand and chronograph minute counter provide subtle references to the Luna Rossa colour palette.

The watch debuts a new bi-material Velcro strap within the Luna Rossa collection. Combining grey textile with rubber and featuring a red Luna Rossa stripe, it is designed for rapid adjustment and comfort during active use. An additional black rubber strap is supplied in the presentation box.

The second novelty, the Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791, introduces a more compact interpretation of the collection. Its brushed stainless steel case measures 40 mm in diameter and features a polished bezel, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the automatic P.900/GMT 12 H manufacture calibre.

Measuring just 5.2 mm thick, the movement comprises 186 components and 23 jewels. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), it stores sufficient energy in a single barrel for a power reserve of approximately three days.

Alongside the hours, minutes, small seconds and date, it incorporates a 12-hour GMT function allowing the wearer to display a second time zone, together with a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting.

The silver sun-brushed dial follows the same visual language as the Chrono, with white Super-LumiNova X2, azurage finishing on the small seconds register and a red seconds hand.

The GMT hand takes inspiration from the profile of Luna Rossa's sails, reinforcing the connection with the sailing team.

Another first for the Luna Rossa collection is the introduction of a tapered stainless steel bracelet equipped with Panerai's PAM Click Release System, allowing tool-free removal and replacement with alternative straps from the brand's accessory range.

Like the Chrono, the GMT is water resistant to 10 bar (approximately 100 metres / 330 feet) and undergoes Panerai's enhanced pressure testing procedures.

The new Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768 has a suggested retail price of €11,200 / US$11,500, while the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791 is priced at €11,100 / US$11,400. panerai.com

A vibrant red for the latest Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance limited edition

2026-07-15T17:10:27.887+02:00

Armin Strom continues to explore one of the rarest phenomena in mechanical watchmaking with the introduction of the Mirrored Force Resonance Red, a new limited edition distinguished by a striking red guilloché dial while preserving the innovative resonance mechanism that has become the hallmark of the collection.

Following other interpretations such as the Green, Ice Blue and Rose Gold editions introduced over the past few years, this latest edition combines the distinctive patented interpretation of resonance with a vivid new colour executed using traditional decorative techniques.

Limited to just 15 pieces, it is housed in the familiar 43 mm stainless steel case and paired with a dark grey Alcantara strap, allowing both the dial and the exposed resonance mechanism to remain the visual focus.

The off-centre dial is crafted on a traditional hand-operated rose engine lathe, creating an intricate guilloché pattern whose radiating motif comes alive as the light moves across its surface.

The rich red finish is framed by black azuré chapter rings that enhance both contrast and legibility, while polished faceted baton indexes appear to float above the guilloché, visually linking the different levels of the display.

As with previous versions of the Mirrored Force Resonance, the left side of the dial reveals the two independent balance wheels, oscillating in opposite directions and connected by Armin Strom's patented Resonance Clutch.

Anthracite-coated bridges provide a restrained architectural framework that highlights the movement of the regulating organs without distracting from their operation.

Instead of relying solely on the natural interaction between two oscillators placed in close proximity, Armin Strom developed a patented Resonance Clutch that mechanically links the two balance springs.

This innovative system enables the vibrations of the two independent regulating organs to be continuously exchanged, allowing them to enter and maintain harmonic resonance with greater consistency. The result is enhanced chronometric stability and improved rate consistency over time.

At the heart of the watch beats the manufacture Calibre ARF21, developed, engineered and produced entirely in-house. The manually wound movement integrates two complete and independent gear trains within a single calibre, each with its own barrel, escapement and regulating organ.

Operating at a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour), it delivers a power reserve of 48 hours while driving the hours, minutes and twin independent seconds displays.

A pusher positioned at 2 o'clock simultaneously resets both seconds hands to zero, allowing the wearer to verify visually that the two regulating systems remain perfectly synchronised after resonance has been established.

Visible through sapphire crystals on both sides of the watch, the movement reflects Armin Strom's commitment to both technical transparency and traditional hand finishing.

Hand-polished bevels, frosted surfaces, perlage, circular graining and black-polished screws demonstrate the high level of finishing applied throughout the 276-component calibre.

Particularly distinctive is the reverse side, where technical inscriptions emerge from the main plate in three-dimensional relief rather than being engraved into it, adding another layer of visual depth to the movement.

As with every Armin Strom timepiece, each watch is assembled twice, a process that allows the manufacture to complete the decorative work before carrying out the final assembly and regulation.

The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter, 11.55 mm in thickness and 49.6 mm lug to lug. Protected by sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, it offers water resistance to 3 ATM (30 metres / 100 feet) and is fitted with a dark grey Alcantara strap featuring white stitching and a stainless steel pin buckle.

Limited to only 15 pieces worldwide, the new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red (Ref. ST25-RF.10) is priced at CHF 78,000. arminstrom.com

DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler with new dual-layer titanium dial

2026-07-15T10:09:01.950+02:00

DOXA has introduced the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a limited edition paying tribute to the celebrated American novelist and maritime explorer on what would have been his 95th birthday.

Reinterpreting the original SUB 300 introduced in 1967 in Grade 5 titanium, the new model celebrates the watch that became inseparably associated with Cussler's fictional hero Dirk Pitt while introducing several technical and aesthetic features unique to this edition.

Produced in a numbered limited edition of 300 pieces, the watch debuts a new two-level dial architecture that adds depth to the display while preserving the excellent legibility for which the SUB collection has long been known.

The new DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler also marks the return of Grade 5 titanium to the collection, a material chosen for its excellent strength-to-weight ratio, corrosion resistance and reduced weight on the wrist.

The 42.5 mm case measures 45 mm lug to lug and 13.4 mm thick, while the screw-down crown and screw-in caseback are also crafted from Grade 5 titanium.

Water resistant to 30 ATM (approximately 300 metres / 984 feet), the watch retains the characteristic "glass box" sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and the patented unidirectional rotating bezel that has distinguished the SUB collection since its origins.

The bezel preserves DOXA's distinctive dual-scale layout, combining the no-decompression depth scale on the outer ring with the dive time scale on the inner ring.

The depth indications are highlighted in the brand's signature orange, contrasting with the black timing scale and reinforcing the watch's strong functional character.

One of the most distinctive features of this edition is its entirely new dial architecture. For the first time, DOXA employs a two-level construction composed of two superimposed Grade 5 titanium dials.

The lower dial carries the Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and minute track, while the upper dial has been precisely laser-cut so that openings reveal the luminous elements beneath, creating a subtle sense of depth that changes with the light.

The sandblasted finish further reinforces the technical appearance of the dial, while the oversized orange minute hand, a defining feature of the SUB collection, immediately draws attention to the most important information during a dive.

The date display at 3 o'clock incorporates a discreet tribute to Clive Cussler, with the numerals 15, 7 and 31 printed in orange to reference his birth date, July 15, 1931.

Powering the watch is the COSC-certified Sellita SW200-2 automatic movement, customised with exclusive DOXA decoration. Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it is equipped with 26 jewels and delivers a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

The Grade 5 titanium screw-in caseback features the emblem of NUMA (National Underwater and Marine Agency), the organisation founded by Clive Cussler in 1979 to locate, investigate and help preserve historic shipwrecks.

Each watch is individually numbered XXX/300, reinforcing the exclusivity of the edition.

Completing the watch is a black Dive Flex rubber strap with a perforated tropical-inspired pattern that recalls vintage dive straps from the late 1960s, further strengthening the connection with the original SUB 300.

Beyond honouring one of the world's best-known maritime adventurers, the project also supports his legacy. DOXA will donate part of the proceeds from the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler to NUMA.

Available from 15 July 2026 through both DOXA's official website and, for the first time, authorised DOXA retailers, the new DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler is priced at CHF 2,890 / €3,190 / US$3,390. doxawatches.com

Review: Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 200 MCMLIX

2026-07-14T14:14:23.048+02:00

Following the presentation of the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX diver's watch by Eberhard & Co. earlier this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva, we had the opportunity to spend some time with all four versions of the collection.

After wearing and testing them, we are pleased to share our images and impressions.

The collection is offered with two dial executions for both the black and blue versions: a fumé (dégradé) finish or a dial with a uniform central colour framed by a silver-toned minute track with circular satin finishing.

Each of the four main variations can then be paired with three different strap or bracelet options, resulting in a total of twelve references.

For this hands-on review, we selected four references representative of the collection.

Among the black models, we wore the fumé dial paired with the traditional Chassis stainless steel bracelet (Ref. 41047.01 CA2C), and the dial with a silver-toned minute track fitted with the newly introduced stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet (Ref. 41047.02 CAM2C).

For the blue models, we chose the fumé dial paired with the Milanese mesh bracelet (Ref. 41047.03 CAM2C), and the version with a silver-toned minute track equipped with a water-repellent leather strap secured by a customised E&C stainless steel buckle (Ref. 41047.04 CP).

The polished stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet represents an absolute first for the Maison and complements the vintage-inspired design particularly well, giving the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX an even more distinctive character.

Both steel bracelets are equipped with the brand's 2CLICK folding clasp, providing secure protection against accidental opening.

The clasp bears the Shield emblem, Eberhard's signature symbol, which is echoed in the design of the inner blades.

The 19 mm lug spacing also allows owners to personalise the watch with alternative straps, including NATO options or other compatible choices.

The new Scafograf 200 MCMLIX introduces a compact 39 mm case measuring 12.3 mm thick, compared to the 43 mm by 12.6 mm dimensions of the larger Scafograf 300 MCMLIX.

The smaller size combines genuine diving capability with excellent everyday wearability, a balance we particularly appreciated during our time with the watch.

For reference, the wrist shown in the photographs measures 17.8 cm (7 inches).

Both the case and the bracelets are crafted from 316L stainless steel, a high-grade alloy known for its excellent corrosion resistance, durability and ability to maintain an attractive finish over time.

Water resistant to 20 ATM (equivalent to 200 metres / 660 feet), the case features alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces that emphasise its dynamic lines.

The screw-down crown is protected by integrated crown guards, while the opposite side of the case houses an automatic helium escape valve at 9 o'clock.

This device allows helium molecules that may enter the case during prolonged saturation diving to escape safely during decompression, preventing excessive internal pressure from compromising the crystal or seals.

The case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, while the 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel incorporates a black or blue ceramic insert with vintage-style luminous markings on the first 15 minutes.

The Scafograf 200 MCMLIX is immediately recognisable thanks to several signature design elements inherited from the original model, particularly the large triangular hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock and the distinctive pointed hour hand.

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 100, circa 1959 - Courtesy of Pandolfini Auction House

Originally conceived to maximise legibility underwater, these features have become defining characteristics of the collection.

The applied hour markers and hands feature polished surrounds filled with vintage-toned luminescent material, which proved both exceptionally bright and remarkably long-lasting during our testing.

More than 12 hours after exposure to daylight, the watch remained clearly legible in complete darkness.

The luminous "lollipop" tip of the central seconds hand further reinforces the watch's diving credentials while making it easy to confirm that the movement is running in low-light conditions.

The absence of a date display contributes to a particularly clean and symmetrical dial layout, something many enthusiasts of classic dive watches will appreciate.

Choosing between the fumé dial and the version with the silver-toned minute track ultimately comes down to personal preference. It is welcome to see Eberhard offering both interpretations, allowing the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX to appeal to different tastes while preserving its distinctive identity.

Inside beats a Swiss automatic movement operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The screw-down caseback is engraved with a starfish motif, a long-standing symbol of the Maison's connection with the underwater world.

The new Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 200 MCMLIX is priced at CHF 3,180 with the leather strap, CHF 3,900 with the traditional Chassis stainless steel bracelet, and CHF 4,070 with the new Milanese mesh bracelet.

With the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX, Eberhard & Co. has successfully distilled the historical identity of the collection into a more compact and versatile format.

The signature dial design, the inclusion of professional features such as the automatic helium escape valve and 200-metre water resistance, and the careful attention to finishing all reinforce its credentials as a genuine diving instrument.

At the same time, the balanced 39 mm dimensions, vintage-inspired aesthetics and variety of dial and bracelet combinations make it equally convincing as an everyday sports watch, well beyond its underwater vocation.

For enthusiasts looking for a dive watch with authentic heritage, distinctive character and refined proportions, the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX offers a particularly compelling proposition.
eberhard-co-watches.ch

Seiko Presage Classic Series celebrates Tomioka silk with four new 38 mm models

2026-07-13T12:49:46.843+02:00

The Seiko Presage Classic Series expands with four new mechanical models inspired by Tomioka silk, one of Japan's finest textile traditions.

Presented in a new 38 mm case size for the Presage Classic Series, the latest additions comprise one limited edition and three regular-production references, each distinguished by dials that reinterpret the texture and subtle lustre of premium Japanese silk.

Produced exclusively from locally cultivated cocoons in Gunma Prefecture, Tomioka silk is renowned for its smooth texture, refined sheen and elegant drape.

Its heritage is closely associated with the Tomioka Silk Mill, established in 1872 as the centre of Japan's silk industry and recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014. Through these new Presage models, Seiko pays tribute to this important tradition of Japanese craftsmanship.

The highlight of the launch is the Seiko Presage Classic Series "Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization" Limited Edition (Ref. HCC008), produced in a limited run of 2,000 pieces.

Finished with a pearl-like coating, the textured dial captures the luminous appearance of Tomioka silk, creating elegant reflections that change with the light.

Its intricate pattern is designed to evoke the graceful folds and delicate weave of the fabric, reinforcing the connection between the watch and its inspiration.

Complementing the dial is a 38 mm stainless steel case with pink-gold-coloured plating, paired with a bezel featuring finely executed decorative textures that reinforce the watch's refined character.

Measuring 12.9 mm thick, the case is fitted with a dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface, while the see-through screw caseback reveals the mechanical movement. Water resistance is rated to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).

The limited edition is completed by a dark brown leather strap inspired by the distinctive brick façade of the historic Tomioka Silk Mill. Sourced from Leather Working Group-certified tanneries, it is secured by a three-fold clasp with push-button release.

Alongside the limited edition, three regular-production models adopt the same silk-inspired dial pattern while introducing colours rooted in traditional Japanese aesthetics.

The HCC001 features a shironeri dial, an immaculate white recalling refined silk threads, while the HCC002 is presented in wakatake-iro, a fresh green long associated with traditional kimono dyeing.

The HCC003 is distinguished by a delicate sakura-iro pink inspired by cherry blossoms.

The white and green versions are paired with stainless steel bracelets featuring Seiko's super-hard coating, while the pink model is fitted with a deep brown leather strap recalling the trunk of the cherry tree, also crafted from Leather Working Group-certified leather.

All four watches are powered by the automatic Calibre 6R51, operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

Equipped with 24 jewels, the movement delivers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and displays the hours, minutes and central seconds. Magnetic resistance is rated to 4,800 A/m.

Beyond celebrating Japanese craftsmanship, the project also supports its preservation. Seiko Presage will donate a portion of the proceeds from the collection to the Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization, which works to preserve and promote the region's long-standing sericulture tradition.

The new Seiko Presage Classic Series models will be available from July 2026 through Seiko Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide. The HCC008 limited edition is priced at €1,200, while the HCC001 and HCC002 retail for €1,050, and the HCC003 for €1,030. seikowatches.com

Bovet Récital 31 debuts with new in-house perpetual calendar calibre

2026-07-12T08:12:56.825+02:00

Bovet has unveiled the Récital 31, a new interpretation of the perpetual calendar that pairs high-end technical sophistication with a more intuitive and legible user experience.

Housed in a 44 mm Dimier case topped by a box-shaped sapphire crystal, the new model combines a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display, a spherical precision moon phase and a newly developed in-house movement, while introducing several practical features intended to simplify everyday use.

Available in Grade 5 titanium or 18K red gold, the Récital 31 is offered in blue, red and black colourways, each produced in a limited edition of 60 numbered pieces.

One of the key innovations concerns the calendar adjustment system. Rather than requiring the owner to identify the correct adjustment pusher for each indication, Bovet has engraved clear labels directly on the case, identifying the pushers used to adjust the date, day, month and spherical moon phase.

This practical solution addresses one of the most common frustrations associated with perpetual calendars while preserving the complexity of the underlying mechanism.

The Récital 31 also continues the design direction established by the Récital 30, presenting the perpetual calendar in a layout intended to remain intuitive in everyday use while preserving the hand engraving, guilloché decoration and artisanal finishing for which Bovet is known.

Powering the watch is a brand-new manufacture calibre developed entirely in-house. The movement comprises 469 components and combines a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display and a spherical precision moon phase, a configuration that posed significant engineering challenges due to the available space and power requirements.

The calibre offers a power reserve of five days and reflects Bovet's extensive vertical integration, with more than 95% of the watch's components manufactured at the company's facilities in Tramelan.

The movement is decorated entirely by hand and introduces a new engraving motif known as étoiles carrées ("square stars"), created specifically for the Récital 31 and its companion model, the Récital 32.

The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, allowing appreciation of both its architecture and extensive hand finishing. According to the manufacture, engraving the movement alone requires more than 15 hours of work by its artisans.

Measuring 44 mm in diameter and 13.3 mm thick, the Récital 31 is paired with a rubber strap matching the dial colour.

The new Bovet Récital 31 is priced at CHF 102,000 in titanium and CHF 122,000 in 18K red gold. bovet.com

Oris Divers Date 39 mm with Olive Green Dial

2026-07-11T12:26:23.071+02:00

The Divers Date collection expands with the new Oris Divers Date 39 mm Olive Green, a model inspired by the muted tones of vintage military equipment that adds another distinctive colour option to a collection tracing its origins back to 1965, when Oris introduced its first purpose-built dive watch.

The Divers Date represents the modern evolution of that historic design while retaining the practical characteristics expected of a contemporary dive watch.

The new olive green dial is paired with a 39 mm multi-piece stainless steel case. Measuring 12.1 mm thick with a 46.5 mm lug-to-lug length, the case features a screw-down crown and is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating applied to the inside.

The unidirectional rotating bezel incorporates a black ceramic insert, chosen for its scratch resistance while providing a durable timing scale for diving or any activity lasting up to 60 minutes.

The dial combines applied hour markers with Super-LumiNova on both the markers and hands to ensure excellent legibility in low-light conditions.

As expected on a professional-style dive watch, the "lollipop" seconds hand also features a luminous tip, allowing the wearer to verify at a glance that the watch is running while underwater.

A discreet date window completes the display without disrupting the clean layout.

Powering the watch is the Oris Calibre 733, an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW200 architecture. Operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and features stop-seconds for precise time setting as well as instantaneous date change.

The movement is visible through the screwed caseback featuring a mineral crystal window.

The stainless steel bracelet is equipped with a folding clasp and Oris' quick strap change system, allowing owners to switch easily between bracelet and strap without tools.

An additional black rubber strap with stainless steel buckle is supplied with the watch, providing a sportier alternative for everyday wear or water activities.

Water-resistant to 20 bar (200 metres / 660 feet), the new Oris Divers Date Olive Green Ref. 01 733 7795 4057-Set will be available from July 2026 with a retail price of CHF 2,450 / €2,450 / US$2,800. oris.ch

Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 in Platinum and Bleu de France

2026-07-10T13:30:00.000+02:00

Following our recent presentation of the Classique Tourbillon 7357, we continue exploring the special horological creations unveiled by Breguet to mark the anniversary of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most famous invention.

Today, the spotlight shifts from the classical refinement of the Classique line to the architectural layout of the Tradition collection with the debut of the Tradition Tourbillon 7047 (ref. 7047PT/YY/5ZU SL).

Issued in a highly exclusive 25-piece limited edition, this new platinum execution introduces a contemporary, monochromatic blue palette that highlights its complex mechanical architecture.

The Tradition Tourbillon 7047 is built around the combination of two historic engineering principles aimed at optimizing chronometric rate regularity: the Tourbillon regulator, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, and the fusee-and-chain transmission, a torque-regulating mechanism whose geometric principles were detailed by Leonardo da Vinci.

In a fusee-and-chain system, the chain unwinds from a mainspring barrel onto a cone-shaped element called the fusee. When the watch is fully wound and torque is at its maximum, the chain pulls on the smallest circumference at the top of the cone.

As the power diminishes, the chain moves down to the wider base. These opposing forces cancel each other out, ensuring a constant delivery of energy to the escapement regardless of the winding level.

Breguet has engineered this microscopic architecture to an extreme degree. The hand-assembled chain of the Calibre 569 is capable of withstanding a tensile force of 6 kilograms, ensuring exceptional structural integrity during operation.

This edition represents a stylistic departure for the 7047 family, opting for a high-contrast chromatic treatment. The mainplate, visible on both the dial side and through the sapphire caseback, features a glacier blue hue with a clean, sandblasted finish.

Contrasting against this cool backdrop are the bridges, the barrel, and the large fusee bridge, all finished in a deep Bleu de France. This proprietary shade was first introduced by the Maison in late 2025 on the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 and is reserved for the manufacture’s most exclusive creations.

The chromatic consistency is carried out through the finer details of the movement. The one-minute Tourbillon cage, crafted from lightweight titanium, is treated in Bleu de France, as is the 77-link portion of the chain assembly.

To maintain visual harmony across the movement, the traditional ruby-red jewel on the Tourbillon bar has been replaced by a blue spinel, while the remaining functional jewels are retained to ensure the durability of the moving parts.

The off-centered time subdial at 7 o'clock is crafted from 18K palladium gold and decorated with a Grand Feu Bleu de France enamel. For the first time in this model's history, the chapter ring features Arabic numerals instead of Roman ones, paired with rhodium-plated 18K gold Breguet hands.

It is on this enamel surface that Breguet’s secret signature resides, hand-engraved using a historical pantograph. Completing the mechanics is a patented power reserve indicator positioned at 10 o’clock, which utilizes a reducer differential to display the remaining autonomy directly onto the barrel drum.

The 950 platinum case measures 41 mm in diameter, 16 mm in thickness, and 50.5 mm from lug to lug, featuring the traditional fluted caseband, welded lugs, and a water resistance of 3 bar (30 meters / 100 feet).

The sapphire crystal on the dial side features a double anti-reflective coating, while the caseback sapphire has a single coating.

The hand-wound manufacture Calibre 569 operates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 55 hours.

It is equipped with an inverted in-line lever escapement featuring horns made of silicon, as too is the Breguet balance-spring. Thanks to its properties, this material makes the watch more resistant to the influence of magnetic fields while also improving precision.

The inscription "Brevet Du 7 Messidor An 9" refers to the date when the French Interior Minister granted Breguet the tourbillon patent based on the Republican calendar in force in France at the time and corresponding to June 26, 1801.

The watch is completed by a Bleu de France rubber strap with glacier blue topstitching, secured by a triple-blade folding clasp in 950 platinum.

The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Platinum / Bleu de France is limited to 25 individually numbered pieces, hand-engraved from 1/25 to 25/25 on the caseback. The retail price is €292,900. breguet.com

Raymond Weil debuts A.R.T., the brand's first integrated bracelet collection

2026-07-09T14:25:26.013+02:00

Marking its 50th anniversary, Raymond Weil introduces the A.R.T. collection, a new sport chic family that represents an important milestone for the Geneva-based independent watchmaker.

The collection is the brand's first to feature an integrated bracelet, combining contemporary styling with the company's long-standing commitment to offering accessible Swiss watchmaking.

The new collection is distinguished by a sculpted case with polished bevels, flowing curves and alternating brushed and polished finishes.

The integrated bracelet continues these lines seamlessly, featuring H-shaped links with polished bevels and chamfered intermediate side links, a first for the brand.

The fluted crown echoes the geometry of the bezel, while the overall construction has been designed to provide both visual balance and comfort on the wrist.

The launch is led by the 38 mm automatic version (Ref. 1000), which is available in five references.

Measuring 38 mm in diameter and only 9.95 mm thick, the stainless steel case is water resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet (10 ATM) and protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

Behind the solid caseback, which can be optionally engraved, beats the RW4200 automatic calibre (based on the Sellita SW200), offering a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and driving the hours, minutes, central seconds and the date display at 3 o'clock.

The dial features a sunray-brushed central section framed by an azuré minute track, separated by a recessed groove that adds depth while enhancing legibility.

Applied indexes and faceted hands are filled with green Super-LumiNova for improved visibility in low-light conditions, while a chamfered date window integrates neatly into the overall design. A small luminous dot on the minute track contributes to the balanced appearance of the dial.

Three dial colours are offered for the automatic model: sage grey, metallic blue and graphite.

The watches are paired either with a stainless steel integrated bracelet or a bi-colour bracelet, both fitted with a folding clasp that continues the integrated design of the case.

Alongside the automatic version, Raymond Weil also introduces a 30 mm quartz model (Ref. 1250), available in nine references.

With a case thickness of only 7.5 mm, it offers a more compact profile while retaining the same integrated bracelet architecture, sculpted case design and 100-metre water resistance.

The collection includes steel models with sage grey, charcoal blue or mother-of-pearl dials, several versions with bezels set with 48 laboratory-grown diamonds (0.40 ct), as well as bi-colour and yellow gold PVD executions.

Like the automatic model, the quartz versions display the hours, minutes, central seconds and date.

The 38 mm automatic A.R.T. models are priced from €1,995 (Refs. 1000-ST-20001, 1000-ST-50001 and 1000-ST-52001) to €2,095 (Refs. 1000-STP-20001 and 1000-STP-50001). The 30 mm quartz versions range from €1,525 to €2,975, depending on the configuration, materials and diamond setting. raymond-weil.com

Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue with sapphire case and Meca-10 movement

2026-07-08T14:00:19.934+02:00

Hublot expands its sapphire collection with the new Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue, a limited edition that combines the brand's expertise in coloured sapphire with its in-house Meca-10 movement.

Produced in 100 pieces, the new model features a transparent sky-blue sapphire case that highlights the distinctive architecture of the manufacture calibre while reinforcing Hublot's long-standing focus on innovative materials.

Since introducing the Meca-10 in 2016, Hublot has taken a different approach to movement design by placing the mechanics at the centre of the watch's identity.

Rather than concealing the movement beneath the dial, the calibre adopts an open, structural architecture inspired by mechanical construction systems, allowing its operation to become an integral part of the visual experience.

The hand-wound HUB1201 manufacture calibre is composed of 223 components and 24 jewels, operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

Its two parallel mainspring barrels deliver an impressive 10-day (240-hour) power reserve, while an unconventional rack-and-pinion mechanism with sliding racks moving along the 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock axis creates the signature dual power reserve display that has become one of the defining features of the Meca-10 family.

The movement is housed in a fully polished 44 mm sapphire crystal case, whose transparency extends to the matching bezel, secured by Hublot's signature H-shaped titanium screws.

The sapphire construction allows light to penetrate the watch from every angle, accentuating the skeletonised movement and the matte sky-blue bridges that visually blend into the overall design. The watch is protected by sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment and is water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 metres / 165 feet).

The openworked dial continues the monochromatic theme with a matte sky-blue skeletonised construction that leaves the mechanics fully visible while ensuring excellent legibility.

Through the sapphire caseback, the intricate finishing and three-dimensional architecture of the calibre can be appreciated in full.

The watch is completed by a structured sky-blue rubber strap fitted with Hublot's One-Click interchangeable strap system and secured by a titanium deployant clasp.

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue (Ref. 424.JX.5120.RX) is limited to 100 pieces and is available through selected Hublot boutiques and authorised retailers as well as online. Retail prices are CHF 70,000 / €82,700 / US$84,300. hublot.com

Panerai Submersible PAM01756: first 44 mm Submersible with steel bracelet

2026-07-07T14:23:23.377+02:00

Panerai expands its Submersible collection with the new Submersible PAM01756, introducing for the first time a 44 mm model fitted with a metal bracelet.

Conceived as a professional diving instrument, the new reference combines a robust stainless steel case, a high-contrast no-date dial, a blue ceramic bezel and the automatic P.980 calibre, while staying true to the functional design of the brand's dive watches.

The 44 mm case is crafted from AISI 316LVM stainless steel, selected for its superior corrosion resistance and durability. It is paired with a unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a polished blue ceramic insert, whose scratch-resistant surface enhances both performance and appearance.

As on all professional dive watches, the bezel is designed to measure immersion time by aligning its luminous marker with the minute hand before a dive.

One of the defining features of the PAM01756 is its no-date dial. By omitting the date display, Panerai recalls the clean, purpose-driven instruments it supplied to the Italian Navy before 1998, where the emphasis was placed entirely on legibility and operational use.

The black sun-brushed dial is complemented by white Super-LumiNova-filled indexes and hands, while Panerai's distinctive colour coding remains in place: the hour markers and hour hand glow green in the dark, whereas the minute hand and the luminous dot at 12 o'clock on the bezel emit blue light, allowing elapsed dive time to be identified immediately.

At 9 o'clock, the small seconds display features an azurage finish composed of concentric engraved circles that create additional visual depth while also serving a practical purpose inherited from Panerai's military watches: confirming at a glance that the movement is running.

Powering the watch is the automatic manufacture Calibre P.980. Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement comprises 177 components, incorporates 23 jewels and stores a power reserve of three days in a single barrel.

It is fitted with a traversing balance bridge to improve stability and features a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting, a function originally developed to allow exact synchronisation during military operations.

Each movement undergoes six-position testing to ensure consistent chronometric performance.

The solid screwed stainless steel caseback is engraved with the historic Slow Speed Torpedo, or "Maiale", used by Italian Navy commandos during underwater missions, recalling Panerai's long association with military diving instruments.

Water resistance is rated to 50 bar (approximately 500 metres / 1,640 feet), with every watch tested at pressures exceeding its guaranteed rating by 25% as part of Panerai's quality-control procedures.

The PAM01756 also marks the introduction of a metal bracelet to the 44 mm Submersible collection. Crafted from stainless steel with alternating brushed and polished finishes, the bracelet echoes the shape of Panerai's signature crown-protecting bridge.

It is equipped with the Quick Length Adjustment system, making its debut in the Submersible line and allowing the bracelet to extend by 2 mm on each side without tools, providing additional comfort as wrist size changes throughout the day.

The new Panerai Submersible PAM01756 is priced at €12,800 / US$13,200. panerai.com

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume with fully luminous case and dial

2026-07-06T07:40:48.584+02:00

The launch of the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume (Ref. IW505801) marks the latest milestone in IWC’s four decades of advanced material development.

This 250-piece limited edition represents the transition of the Swiss manufacturer's proprietary luminescent ceramic technology from a conceptual prototype into a commercial reality—a legacy of technical ceramic engineering that began with the brand's first black zirconium oxide case in 1986 and later expanded into applications like silicon nitride and boron carbide.

Developed by IWC’s internal engineering division, IWC Experimental (XPL), in partnership with Swiss pigment specialists RC Tritec, the new Ceralume material allows the watch structure to emit an intense, independent bluish glow for more than 24 hours.

The manufacturing process of the white luminous ceramic demands a departure from conventional ceramic composition. Rather than sintering a standardized mixture of zirconium oxide and metallic oxides, the engineering team introduced Super-LumiNova pigments directly into the raw ceramic powder.

To achieve structural integrity and ensure the different particle sizes blended without clumping, IWC utilized a dedicated ball-milling process inside a spinning cylindrical drum. The resulting material stores ambient light energy and discharges it in darkness.

To maximize the luminescent output across the entire watch, the 46.5 mm case, which has a total thickness of 15.9 mm and features a water resistance of 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet), is matched with a white dial and a white rubber strap that have been similarly saturated with Super-LumiNova pigments.

The architecture creates two distinct aesthetic profiles depending on lighting conditions.

In daylight, the timepiece is monochromatic, relying on different tones of matte and polished white, paired with indices and numerals printed in an alternative shade of white, and completed by grey hands.

When light levels drop, the entire case, strap, and dial illuminate in blue, leaving the printed indices and the grey hands to appear as dark, legible silhouettes silhouetted against the ambient radiance.

A convex sapphire crystal, secured specifically against sudden drops in air pressure, protects the dial side, while the operation is managed by a traditional screw-in crown fabricated from stainless steel, which matches the case back ring and the folding clasp.

Beneath the luminescent exterior sits IWC’s signature perpetual calendar module, a mechanical system originally engineered by Kurt Klaus during the 1980s.

The mechanism is autonomously programmed to account for the varying lengths of months and the adjustments of leap years. It coordinates displays for the date, day of the week, month, and a four-digit year window positioned between 7 and 8 o'clock.

The dial layout also includes the brand’s Double Moon display, presenting the phase of the moon simultaneously for the Northern and Southern hemispheres via a reduction gear system that requires no manual correction for 577.5 years.

Visible through a transparent sapphire crystal case back, the mechanical architecture is driven by the IWC-manufactured Calibre 52616.

This high-end automatic movement runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and incorporates 54 jewels. It utilizes a Pellaton automatic winding mechanism reinforced with ceramic components to minimize friction and wear over time, allowing the twin barrels to accumulate a 7-day power reserve, or 168 hours, indicated on the dial.

The luminescent motif is carried through to the mechanical components on the reverse side, where the traditional "Probus Scafusia" medallion integrated into the winding rotor is crafted from Super-LumiNova, glowing alongside the blued screws and circular graining of the plates.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume, ref. IW505801, is priced at €78,400. iwc.com

DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES

Seiko Prospex PADI 60th Anniversary Limited Edition HBB002K1

2026-07-05T08:09:02.303+02:00

Seiko celebrates the 60th anniversary of PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) with a new limited-edition Prospex model that also marks ten years of collaboration between the Japanese watchmaker and the world's largest diving organisation.

The partnership is built on a shared commitment to promoting safe diving, exploration and the protection of marine environments. Over the past five years, Seiko has also supported the PADI AWARE Foundation through its Save the Ocean initiative, contributing to projects aimed at reducing marine debris and preserving ocean ecosystems.

The connection between the two organisations can be traced back to the mid-1960s. In 1965, Seiko introduced the 62MAS, Japan's first diver's watch, while the following year PADI was founded with the objective of raising standards in recreational diving education.

Seiko 62MAS

Today, PADI operates in 183 countries and has issued more than 30 million diving certifications.

The new Seiko Prospex Diver's Watch PADI 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Ref. HBB002K1 adopts the familiar "Turtle" case, one of Seiko's most recognisable dive watch designs.

Its rounded profile and crown positioned at 4 o'clock have earned it a loyal following among enthusiasts and professional divers alike.

The dial takes its inspiration from the colours of PADI's 60th anniversary logo. Finished in a rich blue, it is enlivened by red accents on the central seconds hand and the "Diver's 200 m" inscription above 6 o'clock.

A subtle globe motif derived from the commemorative logo extends across the entire dial, adding visual depth without compromising legibility. The unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with a blue ceramic insert, offering excellent scratch resistance while complementing the overall colour scheme.

Inside beats Seiko's automatic Calibre 4R36, operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz).

The movement incorporates 24 jewels, provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours, and offers both day and date indications.

The stainless steel case measures 45 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm in thickness. It features a curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface and a magnifying lens over the date display.

Both the crown and caseback are screw-down, contributing to a water resistance of 200 metres, fully compliant with ISO standards for diver's watches. Lumibrite coating on the hands and indexes ensures excellent readability underwater and in low-light conditions.

The watch is supplied on a stainless steel bracelet fitted with a triple-folding clasp incorporating a safety lock, push-button release and wetsuit extension.

Seiko also includes a highly resistant black silicone strap featuring the full "Professional Association of Diving Instructors" inscription. Its accordion construction allows the strap to expand comfortably when worn over a diving suit.

Limited to 8,000 pieces worldwide, the Seiko Prospex Diver's Watch PADI 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Ref. HBB002K1 will be available from July 2026 at Seiko Boutiques and selected authorised retailers. The recommended retail price is €750. seikowatches.com

Longines unveils new light blue Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve

2026-07-04T11:45:00.000+02:00

Longines has expanded its Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve collection with a new light blue opaline dial, two years after introducing the model to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection.

As we noted in our hands-on review of the launch edition, the model revives one of the most unusual complications developed by Longines: a central power reserve display inspired by a rare watch introduced in 1959.

The 2026 edition preserves the same technical and aesthetic concept while introducing a fresh light blue opaline dial, available with either a stainless steel bracelet or a grey leather strap.

Originally introduced in 1954, the Conquest was the first Longines collection to have its name officially protected by the Swiss Federal Intellectual Property Office. Five years later, the brand unveiled a model featuring a central power reserve indication, a distinctive complication developed in-house and used exclusively by Longines.

Rather than relying on a conventional power reserve scale, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve displays the remaining energy through two rotating discs positioned at the centre of the dial.

A baton-shaped indicator points to an outer graduated disc marked from 64 to 0 hours. As the watch is worn or wound, the disc rotates continuously, providing an intuitive indication of the remaining autonomy while adding a subtle sense of motion to the display.

The new light blue opaline dial gives the watch a contemporary appearance while respecting the refined proportions of the original design. Its domed surface is complemented by twelve faceted rhodium-plated applied indexes and polished "sky-scraper" style hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova for improved legibility in low-light conditions.

A slender baton seconds hand completes the display, while the date aperture remains positioned at 12 o'clock beneath its distinctive trapezoidal applied frame.

Driving the watch is the exclusive Longines calibre L896.5, a self-winding movement operating at 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz).

Equipped with a silicon balance spring and resistant to magnetic fields in accordance with ISO 764, the movement incorporates 21 jewels and provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, it represents a modern evolution of the historical concept while maintaining the collection's vintage character.

The stainless steel case measures 38 mm in diameter, 12.30 mm in thickness and 45.60 mm from lug to lug.

Protected by a box-shaped sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating on both sides, it features a screw-down sapphire caseback and offers water resistance to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet).

Longines offers the new model in two configurations. The Ref. L1.648.4.92.6 is paired with a stainless steel bracelet fitted with a double-folding safety clasp featuring push-button release and a micro-adjustment system, while the Ref. L1.648.4.92.2 comes on a grey alligator leather strap secured by a heritage-style pin buckle.

The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Ref. L1.648.4.92.6 is priced at €4,450, while the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Ref. L1.648.4.92.2 is available for €4,300. longines.com

MB&F celebrates New York Lounge opening with the LM101 EVO NYC Edition

2026-07-03T12:20:20.549+02:00

To celebrate the opening of its new MB&F Lounge in Manhattan, MB&F has unveiled the LM101 EVO NYC Edition, an exclusive limited edition of 25 pieces available only through the brand's new New York space.

The launch also marks another milestone for the Legacy Machine 101 collection.

First introduced in 2014, the LM101 has long occupied a distinctive position within the MB&F universe as one of the smallest and thinnest Legacy Machines, focusing on the essential elements of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the display of time.

It was also the first movement conceived entirely by MB&F's in-house engineering team, with acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen contributing to its movement architecture and finishing specifications.

Last year, for the brand's 20th anniversary, MB&F introduced the LM101 EVO, answering long-standing requests from collectors for a sportier interpretation of the model. The EVO execution brought 80-metre water resistance, a screw-down crown, an ergonomic case with an integrated rubber strap, Super-LumiNova-enhanced displays, a patented FlexRing shock absorber and an increased power reserve of 60 hours.

The new LM101 EVO NYC Edition retains all these technical upgrades while introducing a distinctive aesthetic reserved for the New York launch.

Its 40 mm case is crafted from 18K 5N+ rose gold, paired with a black PVD-treated dial plate featuring a sunray-brushed finish that creates a strong contrast with the movement's signature suspended balance wheel and floating subdials.

The dark background further emphasises the watch's three-dimensional architecture, allowing the mechanical elements to stand out even more clearly beneath the high-domed sapphire crystal.

The hours and minutes are displayed on the upper right subdial, while the lower subdial indicates the enhanced 60-hour power reserve.

Dominating the composition is the oversized 14 mm flying balance wheel, suspended above the movement and oscillating at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour).

The manually wound calibre comprises 233 components and 23 jewels, incorporating a single mainspring barrel and a Straumann double hairspring.

The movement continues to reflect the collaboration with Kari Voutilainen through traditional haute horlogerie finishing, including polished bevels, Geneva waves, hand-made engravings, internal angles and NAC-treated bridges.

Like the other EVO models, the watch benefits from MB&F's patented FlexRing shock protection system, positioned between the movement and the case to improve resistance to impacts encountered during everyday wear.

The rose gold case measures 40 mm in diameter and 16.5 mm in height. It is fitted with sapphire crystals on both sides with anti-reflective treatment and features a screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance to 8 ATM (80 metres / 270 feet). It is completed by a black rubber strap secured with a matching folding buckle.

Turning the watch over reveals a discreet tribute to the occasion: the sapphire caseback is engraved "MB&F NYC", commemorating the opening of the brand's new Manhattan Lounge.

Located on the fifth floor of the historic Fuller Building at 595 Madison Avenue, overlooking 57th Street, the new MB&F Lounge is conceived less as a traditional boutique than as a welcoming environment where collectors and enthusiasts can discover the brand's creations in a relaxed setting surrounded by mechanical art.

Designed by long-time collaborators Voltige Design & Architecture, the space combines presentation areas, a comfortable lounge, private meeting rooms and office facilities. The Lounge will operate by appointment from Monday to Friday.

Limited to 25 pieces and available exclusively through the MB&F New York Lounge, the MB&F LM101 EVO NYC Edition is priced at CHF 77,000 (before taxes) / US$105,000 (before taxes). mbandf.com

Frederique Constant Classics Runabout Automatic GMT 2026 unveiled

2026-07-02T12:55:51.842+02:00

Since 2013, every two years Frederique Constant has presented limited-edition timepieces developed in partnership with the Riva Historical Society, a non-profit organisation dedicated to preserving the heritage of Riva, one of Italy's oldest and most iconic boat builders, renowned for its timeless elegance.

In 2026, Frederique Constant introduces the Classics Runabout Automatic GMT, a 42 mm stainless steel model available in two versions: Ref. FC-350RN5B6, with a deep blue dial and black rubber strap, and Ref. FC-350RBR5B6, featuring a teak-inspired brown dial paired with a brown leather strap.

As with previous Runabout models, the design takes its inspiration from the elegant wooden decks of the legendary Riva motorboats.

The vertically satin-brushed centre of the dial reproduces the appearance of teak planking, with the blue version evoking open water while the brown execution recalls the warm tones of polished wood.

The dial is organised around three concentric circles. At the centre, a 24-hour scale works in conjunction with the arrow-tipped GMT hand to display a second time zone without the need for a separate day/night indicator, helping to preserve the overall clarity of the display.

The date aperture is positioned discreetly at 6 o'clock, while applied indexes alternate with Arabic numerals at 3, 9 and 12 o'clock.

Both the markers and the rhodium-plated hour, minute and GMT hands are filled with beige Old Radium Super-LumiNova, lending the watch a subtle vintage character while maintaining excellent legibility.

Powering both models is the automatic FC-350 calibre, which pairs a reliable Sellita SW200-1 base movement with an in-house GMT module.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement uses 26 jewels and provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, it is decorated with vertical Côtes de Genève on the bridges and oscillating weight.

The caseback also bears the white Riva Historical Society logo, while each watch is individually engraved "One of 888".

Protected by a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, the polished stainless steel case measures 12.85 mm in thickness and is water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 metres / 165 feet).

The blue-dial version is paired with a black rubber strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching and a pin buckle, while the brown-dial model is fitted with a brown leather strap secured by a folding clasp.

Limited to 888 pieces each, the Frederique Constant Classics Runabout Automatic GMT Ref. FC-350RN5B6 and Frederique Constant Classics Runabout Automatic GMT Ref. FC-350RBR5B6 are both priced at €1,995.

Each watch is delivered in a dedicated collector's box that includes a miniature replica of a classic Riva Runabout, further celebrating Frederique Constant's partnership with the Riva Historical Society. frederiqueconstant.com

Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago celebrates Italian cycling engineering

2026-07-01T13:35:18.649+02:00

Richard Mille expands its long-standing involvement in professional cycling with the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago, a limited edition created in collaboration with the legendary Italian bicycle manufacturer.

Produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the RM 64-01 brings Colnago's distinctive design language into a manual-winding tourbillon, combining the two brands' shared focus on lightweight construction, technical innovation and craftsmanship.

Richard Mille has long been associated with professional cycling through partnerships with riders such as Mark Cavendish, Mathieu van der Poel, Tadej Pogačar and UAE Team Emirates.

The collaboration with Colnago, one of Italy's most renowned bicycle manufacturers, is a natural extension of this relationship.

Developed jointly with Colnago's design team, the RM 64-01 takes inspiration from one of Richard Mille's most recognisable architectural movements, the 2006 RM 012 Tourbillon, while incorporating visual references drawn directly from the Italian bicycle maker.

The movement is conceived around the same principles that guide the design of a high-performance racing frame: lightness, structural rigidity and clarity of construction.

Its manually wound Calibre RM64-01 measures 33.0 x 30.8 mm and is built around an ultra-skeletonised Grade 5 titanium baseplate and bridges.

Microblasted surfaces, black and grey PVD treatment, extensive hand-polished bevels and carefully applied lacquer create a striking contrast that exposes the movement's 274 components with exceptional clarity.

The architecture itself recalls a bicycle drivetrain.

The fast-rotating barrel, providing approximately 65 hours of power reserve, is positioned at 1 o'clock directly opposite the one-minute tourbillon regulator at 7 o'clock.

The upper titanium bridges feature a distinctive star-shaped profile inspired by the tubing geometry of Colnago's historic Master frames of the 1980s, whose unique design improved torsional rigidity without increasing weight.

Finished in white lacquer with hand-painted azure blue and 5N red gold accents, these bridges echo the colour scheme of Colnago's modern C68 bicycles.

The movement also incorporates Richard Mille's variable-inertia balance wheel with four regulating screws, oscillating at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

This free-sprung architecture improves long-term chronometric stability while enhancing shock resistance, an important consideration for a sports watch conceived around cycling.

The gear train benefits from the brand's fast-rotating barrel concept, designed to reduce internal mainspring adhesion and improve torque delivery throughout the running period.

The technical inspiration continues into the case.

Measuring 43.21 mm x 49.94 mm with a thickness of 14.23 mm, it combines White Quartz TPT with newly developed Azure Blue Quartz TPT inserts integrated into the notched bezel.

The layered composite material offers exceptional rigidity while keeping weight to a minimum.

A 5N red gold flange, appearing for the first time on a Richard Mille sports watch, introduces a warm contrast to the white and blue case architecture.

Water resistance is rated to 50 metres / 165 feet.

The crown continues the cycling references. Crafted from Quartz TPT with a 5N red gold core, it features a lacquered Ace of Clubs, Colnago's historic emblem, while the specially designed hands take their inspiration from bicycle cranksets.

Viewed from either side through anti-reflective sapphire crystals, the movement and case form a coherent three-dimensional composition in which the mechanics remain the central visual element.

Like every Richard Mille calibre, the RM64-01 receives extensive manual finishing throughout, including hand-polished bevels, polished locking sections, sapphire microblasting, burnished pivots, hand-finished wheels and carefully executed steel components that preserve both aesthetic refinement and mechanical performance.

The Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is issued as a limited edition of 50 pieces and is priced at CHF 800,000, excluding taxes. richardmille.com

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf debuts with forged carbon bezel

2026-06-30T13:57:18.440+02:00

TAG Heuer continues its collaboration with Gulf by unveiling a new Formula 1 chronograph inspired by the iconic racing colours of the oil company.

The new Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf (Ref. CBZ208B.BF0009) draws on a visual identity that has become inseparable from endurance racing, particularly the Gulf-liveried cars that competed at Le Mans and gained worldwide recognition through Steve McQueen's 1971 film Le Mans.

For more on TAG Heuer's long-standing ties with motorsport, see our feature article The history of TAG Heuer.

While TAG Heuer and Gulf share decades of association with motorsport, this latest limited edition focuses on combining the unmistakable blue-and-orange colour scheme with the technical character of the Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph collection.

The 44 mm case is crafted from sandblasted Grade 2 titanium, chosen for its combination of light weight and durability.

Between the case and bezel sits an orange ring that provides a subtle reference to the Gulf palette.

The fixed tachymeter bezel features a forged carbon insert whose naturally irregular surface gives each watch a slightly different appearance.

Further motorsport-inspired details include the black DLC-coated titanium pushers and screw-down crown, the latter accented with orange lacquer. Water resistance is rated to 200 metres / 660 feet.

The dial is organised for maximum legibility, with a black opaline central section framed by a blue running track and crossed by the signature vertical Gulf stripes in blue and orange.

The chronograph counters are arranged in the traditional tri-compax layout, with a 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and the running seconds at 9 o'clock.

Their lacquered hands echo the Gulf colours, while the central chronograph seconds hand is finished in bright orange.

Rhodium-plated applied indexes and skeletonised hour and minute hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova that emits a green glow in low light. A date aperture is positioned at 3 o'clock.

Inside, the watch is powered by the automatic Calibre 16, whose cam-actuated chronograph mechanism is well known for its reliability.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the self-winding movement offers a 42-hour power reserve.

The movement is protected by a screw-down titanium caseback engraved with the Gulf logo, underscoring the collaborative nature of the edition.

The watch is fitted with a three-row sandblasted Grade 2 titanium bracelet secured by a folding clasp with double safety push-buttons and a comfort extension.

It is presented in dedicated packaging featuring Gulf's distinctive blue and orange colours.

Limited to 1,000 pieces, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf (Ref. CBZ208B.BF0009) is priced at CHF 5,950 / €6,300 / US6,300. tagheuer.com

Greubel Forsey introduces the Balancier QM with "Qualité Musée" standard

2026-06-29T14:01:33.015+02:00

With the introduction of the new Balancier QM, Greubel Forsey officially debuts its "Qualité Musée" designation—a formal certification of the exceptional hand-finishing applied to every component of the timepiece.

Today, manual decoration remains one of the most critical measures of haute horlogerie. While this uncompromising approach has defined the brand since its founding in 2004, the newly named standard is now driven forward by a dedicated research wing within the EWT (Experimental Watch Technology) Laboratory.

Ultimately, Qualité Musée reinforces a singular rule of the brand: every individual component, even those hidden deep within the movement, must stand alone as a work of art.

The Balancier QM embodies this philosophy in one of Greubel Forsey's most restrained designs to date.

Housed in a compact 39.60 mm white gold case, just 12.25 mm thick including its two highly domed sapphire crystals, it presents hours, minutes, small seconds and a sector-type power reserve indication through a movement conceived as a fully three-dimensional landscape rather than a flat mechanical assembly.

Produced as a limited edition of just 33 pieces, it is manually wound and offers a 72-hour chronometric power reserve.

The movement architecture creates multiple visual planes that naturally guide the eye from the oversized balance wheel positioned deep within the movement to the elevated small seconds display, the exposed twin-barrel system, the flame-blued steel hands and the suspended chapter ring, beneath which the blue hand appears to indicate the power reserve.

This careful use of depth is one of the defining characteristics of the Balancier QM and demonstrates the Manufacture's continuing effort to bring highly three-dimensional movement construction into increasingly compact dimensions.

The movement itself, Calibre GF07, comprises 298 components and operates at a traditional frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

At its heart beats Greubel Forsey's proprietary 12.60 mm variable-inertia balance fitted with six gold mean-time screws and a stop-balance mechanism activated through the crown for precise time setting.

Continuing the company's long-term strategy of vertical integration, the hairspring is now manufactured entirely in-house, from the proprietary alloy through to the finished component.

The process, initiated in 2012 and first realised for the Hand Made 1 in 2019, allows the Manufacture to control every stage of production, ensuring consistency while preserving traditional manufacturing techniques that often rely on restored historic machinery.

In line with the Qualité Musée designation, every component, whether visible or hidden once the movement is assembled, receives the same attention.

The steel balance bridge alone combines seven different hand-finishing techniques, including barrel polishing, black polishing, circular graining, spotting, straight graining and hand-polished bevels measuring up to 0.40 mm.

The same philosophy applies throughout the movement, from the bi-level escape wheel, polished and bevelled on both sides, to the convex pallet jewels and the winding mechanism on the reverse.

Turning the watch over reveals the three-quarter nickel-silver plate, decorated with a frosted finish and broad polished bevels.

The winding mechanism is fully exposed, with concave sinks, polished gear teeth, hand-matted wheels and black-polished steel components showcasing the extraordinary level of hand-finishing applied throughout the calibre.

According to Greubel Forsey, the standards established with the Balancier QM will progressively extend across the collection.

The new escapement geometry, convex pallet jewels, enlarged hand-polished bevels and fully in-house hairsprings will gradually appear in future creations, while the Manufacture has already announced a series of increasingly compact developments, including a new Nano Foudroyante later this year and additional movements planned through 2027.

Limited to 33 pieces worldwide, the Greubel Forsey Balancier QM is offered in white gold at a price of CHF 265,000 before taxes. greubelforsey.com

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