Time and Watches

In pictures: Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only Marrone

2026-10-14T12:38:53.965+02:00

Revived in 2023 by LVMH, the Gérald Genta brand continues to develop the design language of the celebrated watch designer under the direction of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

In January 2026, the line expanded with two Geneva Time Only models, retaining the collection’s distinctive cushion-shaped case while adopting a more restrained design centred on hours and minutes.

Named after the city where Gérald Genta was born, the Geneva collection reinterprets the designer’s original 1970s aesthetic through softer lines and refined proportions.

Following the article presenting the Geneva Time Only in its Grafite and Marrone versions, we had the opportunity to photograph the Geneva Time Only Marrone ref. ECFD01A1 at Pisa 1940’s flagship store in Milan.

The historic retailer is a familiar destination for watch collectors and has collaborated with several prestigious watchmakers on exclusive editions.

We are now pleased to share the images in this latest installment of our “In Pictures” series. Readers can also explore the watch on Pisa 1940’s online platform or visit the retailer in Milan.

The Geneva Time Only models feature a 38 mm cushion-shaped case measuring 8.15 mm thick.

Polished and satin-brushed surfaces play against each other, while a sculpted gadroon accentuates the transition between the case’s curves and edges.

The Marrone version features a 4N rose gold case paired with matching hands and a grained brass dial in warm brown tones.

A smoked gradient effect adds depth to the dial, while the two-part minute track introduces a subtle geometric contrast.

Its outer section follows the cushion-shaped outline of the case, whereas the inner section forms a perfect circle, reinforcing the watch’s distinctive shape between round and square.

The case’s silhouette is further defined by a single, broader and shorter lug on each side.

The watch is fitted with a light brown calfskin strap secured by a rose gold pin buckle.

Powering the Geneva Time Only Marrone is the Zenith Elite GG-005P automatic calibre, equipped with a revised oscillating mass developed in-house.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Water resistance is rated to 50 metres.

The Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only Marrone, reference ECFD01A1, is available through Pisa 1940’s Milan boutique and online platform.

Further information can be found at geraldgenta.com and pisa1940.com.

MB&F LM1 EVO: The evolution of the original Legacy Machine

2026-10-13T14:00:07.614+02:00

Fifteen years after the introduction of the Legacy Machine N°1, MB&F revisits one of its defining creations with the LM1 EVO.

The new model retains the original’s three-dimensional architecture and independently adjustable time displays, while introducing a smaller case, a longer power reserve and the shock protection and water resistance associated with the brand’s sportier EVO collection first appeared in 2020 with the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO.

Launched in 2011, the Legacy Machine N°1 marked a different direction for MB&F, combining the brand’s unconventional approach to mechanical watchmaking with a round case and references to traditional 19th-century horology.

Developed in collaboration with independent watchmakers Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, the original received both the Public Prize and the Best Men’s Watch Prize at the 2012 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The model’s subsequent evolution included the Legacy Machine N°1 Final Edition.

The LM1 EVO preserves the defining elements of the original design: two separate subdials, each displaying its own hours and minutes, and an oversized balance wheel suspended above the movement.

The two time displays can be set completely independently, rather than being linked by a conventional GMT mechanism. This allows the wearer to accommodate time differences of 30 or 45 minutes, as well as full-hour offsets.

Alternatively, one display can be used to measure elapsed time while the other continues to show the current time.

The two crowns are positioned at 4 and 8 o’clock. The crown at 4 o’clock winds the movement and sets the right-hand time display, while the crown at 8 o’clock adjusts the left-hand display. The arrangement maintains the symmetry of the original while providing direct control over each indication.

The most visible mechanical element remains the large balance wheel, now paired with a Straumann double hairspring and supported by a redesigned titanium bridge.

The two hairsprings are arranged in opposing directions to counteract certain positional errors associated with the balance spring, with the aim of improving rate stability. Beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 2.5 Hz, the 14 mm balance wheel remains a central part of the watch’s visual architecture.

The manually wound movement provides a power reserve of 60 hours, compared with 45 hours in the original LM1.

Its indication has also been redesigned: the original’s vertical, sextant-like display gives way to an inclined indicator positioned at 6 o’clock. The new arrangement integrates the function into the lower part of the dial-side composition.

Developed by MB&F with Jean-François Mojon, with movement aesthetics and finishing specifications by Kari Voutilainen, the calibre features 25 jewels and traditional hand-finishing inspired by 19th-century watchmaking.

Gold chatons with polished countersinks, polished bevels including internal angles, Geneva waves and hand-made engravings are among its details. The movement also incorporates darkened, NAC-treated bridges, providing a contemporary contrast to the classical finishing.

The EVO case brings practical changes to the Legacy Machine design. Measuring 42 mm in diameter and 16.8 mm thick, it is smaller than the original LM1’s 44 mm case.

It incorporates MB&F’s patented FlexRing shock-absorbing system, an annular dampener positioned between the case and movement, and offers water resistance to 80 metres.

Screw-down crowns and a domed sapphire crystal on the front, together with a box-shaped sapphire crystal on the back, complete the construction. Both crystals feature anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Two versions are available. The titanium model combines a Grade 5 titanium case with a rhodium-plated dial plate, black displays and blue hands.

The second version features a 5N+ rose gold case with a green dial plate and rose-gold-toned details. This edition is limited to 33 pieces.

Both versions are fitted with integrated rubber straps, available in grey or black and matched to a titanium or rose gold folding buckle.

A quick-release system at both the case and clasp allows the straps to be changed without tools, a first for an EVO model.

The MB&F LM1 EVO in titanium is priced at CHF 82,000 plus VAT, equivalent to €89,000 plus taxes or US$109,000. The 5N+ rose gold edition, limited to 33 pieces, costs CHF 102,000 plus VAT, equivalent to €111,000 plus taxes or US$137,000. mbandf.com

MeisterSinger No.03 and Perigraph Special Editions: Turquoise blue dials in 38 mm cases

2026-10-13T09:08:11.762+02:00

MeisterSinger expands its collection of single-hand watches with two limited special editions of the No.03 and Perigraph, distinguished by turquoise blue dials and compact 38 mm stainless steel cases.

Both models retain the German brand’s approach to displaying time with a single hour hand, while offering different interpretations of its established design.

MeisterSinger’s philosophy centres on the idea that time does not need to be divided into minutes and seconds to be meaningful. Its watches use a single hand to indicate the time on a dial marked in five-minute increments, encouraging a more measured way of reading the hours.

The No.03 expresses this approach in its most direct form, while the Perigraph adds an open date display.

The defining feature of the two new editions is their turquoise blue dial, finished with a transparent lacquer that gives the colour depth and a distinctive brilliance. Depending on the light, the surface takes on changing nuances, bringing a fresh appearance to two familiar designs.

The 38 mm case diameter provides a relatively compact alternative within the collection, with proportions intended to suit a range of wrists. Both watches are designed as unisex models and will be produced in a one-time limited run.

The No.03 Special, reference S-BM9928, follows MeisterSinger’s established single-hand layout, keeping the dial focused on the passage of the hours.

The Perigraph Special, reference S-BM1128, introduces additional detail through its characteristic open date display.

For this edition, the hour numerals from 01 to 12 have been oriented to follow the circular layout of the dial. Polished silver chamfers frame the opening for the date disc.

The date scale has also been revised.

For the first time on the Perigraph, single-digit dates are displayed with a leading zero, so that the sequence runs from 01 to 31.

This detail echoes the two-digit format traditionally used for the hour numerals and brings greater consistency to the dial’s overall design.

Both watches are powered by the Swiss-made Sellita SW300 automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back secured by six screws.

The stainless steel cases measure 38 mm in diameter and offer water resistance to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet). A sapphire crystal protects each dial.

The turquoise blue theme continues with a light blue sport fabric strap, giving the watches a casual appearance.

For a more traditional look, MeisterSinger also offers a mahogany-coloured calf leather strap with crocodile embossing. Both models feature quick-release spring bars, allowing the strap to be changed without tools.

The MeisterSinger No.03 Special (ref. S-BM9928) is priced at €2,190, while the Perigraph Special (ref. S-BM1128) costs €2,490. meistersinger.com

Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBC011: A fan-selected limited edition

2026-10-12T13:17:54.520+02:00

Seiko introduced a new limited-edition Prospex diver’s watch whose dial design was selected by the brand’s international community of enthusiasts.

Created to mark the 60th anniversary of Seiko’s first diver’s watch, the model takes inspiration from the changing colours of the sea under daylight and combines this distinctive light blue dial with the design of the original 1965 diver.

The project began in 2025, when Seiko invited fans to vote for the dial of a new Prospex diver through a global campaign held online and in person from 1 to 31 July.

Four designs represented different seascapes and the changing light from dawn to sunset. The winning proposal was the one inspired by the ocean in daylight, characterised by a vivid blue shade described as “Daytime Blue”.

The resulting Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch Fan-selected Limited Edition, reference HBC011, features a blue dial and matching blue aluminium bezel insert.

The dial’s wave motif recalls a symbol associated with Seiko’s diving-watch heritage. The wave symbol first appeared on the case back of Seiko’s 1975 diver’s watch, the world’s first diving watch with a titanium case and water resistance to 600 metres, developed for saturation diving.

It has since remained a recurring feature on the case backs of Seiko dive watches. On the new limited edition, the case back is engraved with the words “LIMITED EDITION” and an individual serial number, identifying each of the 4,500 watches produced.

The watch draws on the design of Seiko’s original diver, introduced in 1965 and known among enthusiasts as the 62MAS.

Equipped with an automatic movement and water-resistant to 150 metres, the original model was designed to provide reliable timekeeping and clear legibility in demanding conditions.

Its capabilities were demonstrated when Japanese researchers used it during Antarctic expeditions in the 1960s, helping establish the foundations for Seiko’s subsequent range of professional diving watches.

The new model retains the functional approach of that early design while incorporating specifications suited to contemporary diving.

Its stainless steel case measures 40 mm in diameter and 13 mm thick, and is fitted with a curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface.

A unidirectional rotating stainless steel bezel carries an aluminium insert, while LumiBrite is applied to the hands, hour markers and bezel for visibility in low-light conditions.

The screw-down crown and case back contribute to water resistance rated to 300 metres / 1,000 feet, in accordance with the watch’s diver specification. Magnetic resistance is rated at 4,800 A/m.

Power comes from the automatic Seiko Calibre 6R55, which operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and contains 24 jewels. It provides a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, or three days.

The stainless steel bracelet features Seiko’s super-hard coating and a triple-folding clasp with a secure locking mechanism and push-button release.

Its sliding adjustment system allows the bracelet length to be extended by up to 15 mm in increments of 2.5 mm.

The adjustment can be operated while the clasp is closed, making it easier to accommodate changes in fit during wear. A high-strength silicone strap is also supplied.

The Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch Fan-selected Limited Edition is available worldwide through Seiko Boutiques and selected authorised retailers.

Production is limited to 4,500 pieces, and the recommended retail price is €1,550 / US$1,400. seikowatches.com

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle: A study in optical illusion

2026-10-11T08:03:44.793+02:00

The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle explores the relationship between watchmaking and visual perception, using geometric laser engraving to challenge the legibility of one of the collection’s most recognisable designs.

Its 40 mm sandblasted titanium case, opaline titanium dial and integrated bracelet feature a fragmented geometric pattern that disrupts the watch’s outlines, transforming its characteristic geometry into an optical illusion.

The design draws on the principle of dazzle camouflage, a technique used in the automotive industry to make a vehicle’s silhouette harder to discern during road testing. By covering bodywork with contrasting geometric patterns, manufacturers disrupt the perception of the underlying shape.

Bulgari applies a similar approach to the Octo Finissimo, where the engraved pattern causes the watch’s characteristic angles to merge visually, while the dial and bracelet appear as a continuous composition.

The bezel remains free of the motif, preserving a recognisable element of the collection’s design.

The Dazzle continues Bulgari’s broader exploration of the Octo Finissimo as a platform for artistic experimentation.

Previous collaborations have examined different approaches to form and perception, including the metaphysical work of Lee Ufan and the minimalist aesthetic of Tadao Ando. With the Dazzle, the focus shifts to optical disruption and the tension between a watch’s physical form and how it is perceived.

Achieving the effect required laser engraving, a technique developed and mastered in-house by Bulgari. The process allows the geometric motif to be reproduced with precision on the watch’s designated titanium surfaces, integrating the pattern into the design.

The square-based geometry reflects the modular structure underlying the case and bracelet, while making their individual planes and edges more difficult to distinguish.

Beneath the engraved surfaces, the Octo Finissimo Dazzle retains the collection’s characteristic emphasis on slim proportions. The sandblasted titanium case measures 40 mm in diameter and just 5.15 mm thick.

A transparent caseback reveals the manufacture BVL 138 automatic calibre, an ultra-thin movement equipped with a micro-rotor and measuring 2.23 mm in thickness. It is decorated by hand with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and perlage finishing.

Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), the BVL 138 provides a 60-hour power reserve and displays the hours, minutes and small seconds.

The opaline titanium dial carries the laser-engraved geometric motif and is fitted with black hands and hour markers. A sandblasted titanium crown with a black ceramic insert completes the case, while the integrated titanium bracelet incorporates a folding buckle and continues the geometric pattern.

Water resistance is rated to 30 metres or 100 feet. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle, reference 104382, is priced at CHF 16,900 / €19,500 / US$18,300. bulgari.com

Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784: Openworked mechanics and GMT functionality

2026-10-10T07:42:28.861+02:00

The new Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784 stands out with its openworked display, showcasing a skeletonised hand-wound movement equipped with a horizontal tourbillon, a GMT function, and a six-day power reserve.

At the centre of the watch is the P.2005/T calibre, a skeletonised mechanical movement measuring 10.05 mm in thickness, previously featured in the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT PAM767 "Lo Scienziato".

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it comprises 277 components and 31 jewels, with a Glucydur balance and an Incabloc shock-protection system.

Its blue Grade 5 titanium bridges and plates reduce weight while providing a visual link between the movement and the case material.

The calibre provides a power reserve of 144 hours, supplied by three spring barrels connected in series. Their combined mainspring length is 1.36 metres, and the movement can be fully wound with 68 turns of the crown.

The arrangement is based on a patented Panerai construction in which the third barrel is positioned laterally alongside the other two, engaging directly with the toothing of one of them without increasing the movement’s overall thickness.

The tourbillon of this model differs from a conventional construction in both its rotation speed and orientation. Its cage completes one rotation every 30 seconds rather than the usual 60 seconds and rotates on an axis perpendicular to that of the balance.

This horizontal arrangement is designed to compensate for rate variations associated with gravity. According to Panerai, assembling the cage requires seven times longer than assembling a simple movement.

The openworked dial allows the wearer to observe the tourbillon, gear train and three barrels in operation. Rather than being mounted on a conventional dial plate, the numerals and hour markers are assembled directly on the rehaut, leaving the movement to define the visual structure.

A grid motif across the exposed mechanism recalls the net barriers once placed beneath naval vessels, through which Italian Navy frogmen passed during underwater missions.

The functions are arranged around this open architecture. Hours and minutes are displayed centrally, while a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock incorporates a tourbillon indicator that rotates at the same speed as the cage.

The angular power reserve indicator follows the movement’s outer radius and uses a dedicated mechanism comprising more than 20 components, including a miniature ball differential with three balls measuring 0.5 mm each.

The GMT function is designed for travellers. The local hour hand can be moved forwards or backwards in one-hour increments without stopping the watch or disturbing the GMT hand.

Linked to the date, the mechanism allows local time to be adjusted while home time remains visible through a 12-hour GMT hand and a 24-hour indication. When the wearer is not travelling, the local and home-time hands can be aligned.

Colour also helps distinguish the indications. Orange accents mark the GMT, AM/PM and power reserve displays, while Super-LumiNova provides visibility in low light.

The 47 mm case is made from brushed Grade 5 titanium, with polished surfaces and Panerai’s characteristic crown-protecting bridge.

Grade 5 titanium is both lighter and harder than stainless steel, and its use for the case, bridges and plates brings the watch’s total weight to approximately 105 grams. Water resistance is rated to 10 bar, equivalent to 100 metres / 330 feet.

A domed sapphire crystal protects the openworked movement. Its curved profile recalls the appearance of Panerai watches from the 1960s, including reference 6152/1, and changes the perception of the numerals and mechanism as the viewing angle shifts.

The crystal also marks the first use of a domed sapphire construction in this high-complication configuration within the Panerai collection.

The PAM01784 is supplied with a blue alligator leather strap fitted with a titanium adjustable buckle, alongside a second blue rubber strap with a pin buckle. It is presented in a blue-finished cherry wood box that also includes a screwdriver for changing the buckle.

The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784 retails at €160,000 (including taxes) / US$155,100 (before sales taxes). panerai.com

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 “Arabic Blue”

2026-10-09T13:44:14.283+02:00

The new Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 “Arabic Blue” stands out within the brand’s collections with its distinctive Arabic numerals, a dial feature rarely found on the Japanese manufacture’s timepieces, which predominantly feature baton-style hour markers.

The limited edition pays tribute to the SBGW003, launched in 2001 with Grand Seiko’s first manually wound 9S-series movement, by revisiting its characteristic dial design.

The deep navy dial reflects traditional Japanese indigo-dyeing techniques. Boldly raised Arabic numerals add depth and definition, whilst a subtle golden tone on the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o'clock and the central seconds hand creates a striking contrast against the dark background.

The 37.3 mm stainless steel case measures 11.7 mm in thickness and 44.3 mm from lug to lug, with a 19 mm lug width.

Its rounded profile and gently sloping lugs give the watch a soft silhouette, while Zaratsu polishing creates the distortion-free mirror finish characteristic of Grand Seiko’s casework.

A box-shaped sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface, protects the dial. Water resistance is rated to 30 metres.

The SBGW325 is powered by the manually wound Calibre 9S64, a mechanical movement with 24 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. Its specified accuracy is +5 to −3 seconds per day.

As the mainspring unwinds, the movement’s torque decreases gradually, a characteristic addressed in its design to help maintain stable timekeeping. Magnetic resistance is rated at 4,800 A/m.

The watch is supplied with two interchangeable straps: an indigo-dyed crocodile leather strap using traditional Japanese hon-ai techniques, and a white pebbled leather alternative.

Both use leather sourced from Leather Working Group (LWG)-certified tanneries, an organisation of which Grand Seiko is a member.

Limited to 600 pieces worldwide, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 “Arabic Blue” features a numbered caseback with a sapphire crystal window revealing the finished movement. The watch retails at €5,700 or US$5,800. grand-seiko.com

A new era for Ebel: François-Paul Journe and Chanel take control

2026-10-08T23:25:44.907+02:00

Movado Group has entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in Ebel for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Montres Journe SA, the Geneva-based manufacturer behind F.P. Journe, alongside Chanel and Swiss watch industry executive Pierre Jacques.

Movado Group will retain a 5% stake in the business. The transaction is subject to customary adjustments and closing conditions and is expected to be completed within the coming months.

Pierre Jacques is set to become CEO of Ebel following completion, while Movado Group will provide transitional services to support continuity for the brand’s customers and business partners.

Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1911, Ebel has a long history in Swiss watchmaking and is closely associated with collections such as the Ebel Sport Classic, characterised by its integrated bracelet, geometric case and distinctive six-screw bezel.

The Ebel 1911 Chronograph relaunched in 2023

The new ownership structure brings together three established names in the luxury watch sector. Montres Journe, established in Geneva in 1999 by independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe, produces F.P. Journe timepieces and components in-house.

Chanel has an established presence in high-end watchmaking and fine jewellery, while Pierre Jacques brings extensive executive experience from the Swiss watch industry.

As part of the agreement, Ebel’s trademarks, intellectual property, inventory and dedicated assets will be transferred to a newly formed Swiss subsidiary of Movado Group prior to the sale of 95% of the equity to the buyer group.

Personnel within Movado Group currently dedicated to the Ebel business will also transition to the new subsidiary.

The assets being transferred include the Villa Turque, the historic modernist house in La Chaux-de-Fonds designed by Le Corbusier.

La Villa Turque - Courtesy of Schwizgebel

Acquired by Ebel in 1986, the architectural landmark has long been associated with the brand and forms part of its design heritage.

Movado Group stated that the divestment will enable the company to concentrate on its core accessible-luxury and fashion watch and jewellery portfolio, while providing Ebel with a dedicated ownership structure and resources for its future development. Movado will remain a minority shareholder with a 5% holding.

The transaction remains subject to customary closing conditions. Upon completion, Ebel will enter a new phase under majority ownership led by Montres Journe, with Chanel and Pierre Jacques as partners. ebel.com

Patek Philippe Gondolo Ladies First refreshes its Art Deco-inspired design

2026-10-08T17:35:15.149+02:00

Last week, on the occasion of the Patek Philippe WATCH ART Grand Exhibition Milano 2026, Patek Philippe presented six new Gondolo Ladies First watches, offering a contemporary interpretation of the collection’s Art Deco-inspired cushion-shaped design.

The new models revisit the aesthetic of the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph, Reference 7071, while combining precious-metal cases and gem-setting with the practical simplicity of quartz movements.

The Gondolo occupies a distinctive place in Patek Philippe’s design history.

Created during the Art Deco era for the Brazilian market, the collection has included cushion, square, rectangular and tonneau-shaped watches over the decades. Its influence also extended to the 1990s ladies’ Gondolo, which provided inspiration for the Twenty~4 collection.

The new watches retain the rounded, cushion-shaped case associated with the current Gondolo, with articulated lugs designed to allow the case to sit closely against the wrist.

The use of the slim quartz movement contributes to the relatively slender 8.03 mm profile. The cases measure 31 mm by 34.8 mm and are water-resistant to 30 metres, with a solid caseback.

Three of the new references feature opaline dials with a concentric wave pattern and a diamond-set flange. The flange is set with 108 diamonds weighing approximately 0.41 carats in total, with the stones graduated in size to follow the contours of the dial.

The blue-grey opaline version, Reference 7043G-001, combines a white gold case with a matching blue-grey calfskin strap featuring a denim pattern and contrasting white stitching. The dial is fitted with white gold faceted trapeze-shaped hour markers and leaf-shaped hands.

The same design is available with a rose gold case and chestnut opaline dial in Reference 7043R-001, paired with a chestnut calfskin strap with a denim pattern and cream stitching.

Reference 7043GR-001 combines a white and rose gold case with a silvery opaline dial and a grained beige calfskin strap.

In each case, the wave pattern provides a textured surface beneath the applied gold hour markers, while the opaline finish gives the dial a soft, luminous appearance.

The three Joaillerie versions take the gem-setting considerably further. Their gold cases, dials and lugs are set with a total of 687 brilliant-cut diamonds. The curved cushion-shaped cases and lugs alone accommodate 253 diamonds, while a further 411 diamonds decorate the dial and flange and 23 are set into the buckle.

At the centre of each Joaillerie dial, 303 diamonds are arranged in concentric circles, with their sizes carefully graduated towards the centre.

The 12 trapeze-cut coloured gemstones serving as hour markers are held in gold chatons that allow light to reach the stones.

Their colours correspond to the hands and straps: green tsavorites with a shiny green alligator strap for Reference 7043/250R-001, blue topazes with a peacock-blue strap for Reference 7043/250G-001, and purple amethysts with a matching purple strap for Reference 7043/250GR-001.

The gem-setting is carried out in Patek Philippe’s specialised ateliers, where the stones are selected according to the Manufacture’s criteria for colour, clarity, proportions and finish.

The Joaillerie models are fitted with shiny alligator leather straps and diamond-set gold prong buckles.

The six new watches are powered by Patek Philippe’s Calibre E15 quartz movement. Measuring 15 by 13 mm and just 1.8 mm thick, the movement comprises 57 components and six jewels and operates at a quartz frequency of 32,768 Hz.

It is powered by a 1.55-volt silver oxide battery with an approximate life of three years. The movement drives the hours and minutes and is adjusted through the crown.

Patek Philippe also emphasises that the E15 is conceived according to the same standards applied to the Manufacture’s mechanical calibres.

While approximately 20 per cent of its architecture is electronic, the remaining 80 per cent consists of components manufactured and finished using traditional watchmaking methods.

Bridges, plates and mechanical elements are produced with the same attention to quality found in the brand’s hand-wound and automatic movements, reflecting an approach that regards quartz not as an alternative to fine watchmaking, but as another expression of it.

The new Gondolo Ladies First models form part of Patek Philippe’s broader approach to women’s watches, combining the architectural character of the Gondolo case with different levels of gem-setting and a quartz movement designed for straightforward everyday use.

Prices start at €35,640. patek.com

Glashütte Original Senator Meissen “Cherry Blossom” pairs porcelain artistry with Saxon watchmaking

2026-10-08T12:23:02.442+02:00

Glashütte Original has unveiled the Senator Meissen “Cherry Blossom”, a new Atelier edition created in collaboration with Meissen that combines a hand-painted porcelain dial with the manufacture’s Calibre 36 automatic movement.

The watch follows the first Senator Meissen collaboration presented in 2025, which resulted in three exclusive porcelain-dial limited editions.

The new edition continues that collaboration with a cherry blossom motif inspired by the Japanese Jugatsu-zakura, a winter cherry tree whose blossoms can appear from October onwards.

The white and pink flowers are painted by hand on a wafer-thin Meissen porcelain dial, creating a delicate botanical motif against the light background.

The connection between Meissen and botanical decoration dates back to the 18th century, when the manufactory began incorporating floral motifs into its porcelain.

Early decorations were influenced by Far Eastern porcelain, before native flowers and foliage became established subjects in the repertoire. Cherry blossom subsequently became one of the motifs associated with Meissen porcelain and provides the theme for this latest collaboration with Glashütte Original.

The porcelain dial is produced in the Meissen workshops using colours developed and supplied by the manufactory’s own colour laboratory.

Experienced porcelain painters apply the motif by hand using fine brushes, with each layer followed by firing at approximately 900°C. The repeated firing process builds the depth and intensity of the colours while allowing the fine details of the blossoms to remain defined.

The dial is framed by a 40 mm 5N red gold case measuring 10.2 mm in height and 47.09 mm from lug to lug.

A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides protects the dial, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement.

Water resistance is rated at 5 bar.

Solid-gold 5N hour and minute hands complete the two-hand display, while a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red gold pin buckle provides the finishing element.

The Senator Meissen “Cherry Blossom” is powered by the automatic manufacture Calibre 36-16. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and provides a power reserve of up to 100 hours.

Its regulating system uses a silicon balance spring, together with a regulator-free adjustment system incorporating a swan-neck spring and solid-gold regulating screws.

The movement contains 27 jewels and features a shock-protected oscillating system.

A stop-seconds mechanism is activated when the crown is pulled out, allowing the balance to be stopped for precise time setting.

Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the movement reveals the characteristic finishing associated with Glashütte Original, including the striped decoration of the three-quarter plate, a hand-engraved balance cock and a sunray finish on the winding chain wheel.

The skeletonised bidirectional rotor features a mirrored double-G emblem and a solid-gold oscillating weight.

The Senator Meissen “Cherry Blossom” forms part of Glashütte Original’s Atelier commissions, for which each watch is assembled in its entirety by a single watchmaker.

While the porcelain dial is produced by Meissen, the watch is otherwise completed in Glashütte, bringing together the two manufactories’ respective areas of expertise.

The Glashütte Original Senator Meissen “Cherry Blossom”, reference 1-36-16-05-05-01, will be available from October 2026 at Glashütte Original boutiques and selected retailers worldwide, at an indicative price of €35,800. glashuette-original.com

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer dark gives world time a new night-time look

2026-10-07T13:17:19.678+02:00

Nomos Glashütte has presented the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer dark, a new version of its world time watch distinguished by a black dial and an expanded Super-LumiNova treatment that brings the entire world time display to life after dark.

Designed for travel across time zones, the watch combines local time on the main dial with a 24-hour display at 3 o’clock and a world time indication covering 24 cities.

The new luminous treatment extends beyond the hands and hour markers: for the first time on the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer, the city ring and home-time indicator are also filled with blue Super-LumiNova.

This creates a continuous luminous representation of the world time display in low-light conditions while keeping the individual time zones legible.

The watch is housed in a 40 mm stainless steel case measuring 9.9 mm in height.

A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides protects the dial.

The screw-down crown contributes to the water resistance of 10 ATM, making the watch suitable for swimming.

A red warning ring on the crown provides a visual indication when the crown has not been fully secured.

The deep black dial provides a dark background for the off-white typography and luminous elements.

The main dial displays local hours and minutes, while the world time mechanism is arranged around the periphery.

A 24-hour home-time display at 3 o’clock complements the city ring and day-and-night indication. Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands are fitted with off-white Super-LumiNova inserts, matching the luminous hour numerals and indexes.

The world time function can be adjusted using the dedicated pusher, which advances the city display with each click.

This allows the wearer to select the relevant time zone without altering the main time display, while the day-and-night indication provides an immediate reference to whether it is daytime or nighttime in the selected cities.

Powering the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer dark is the automatic Nomos Calibre DUW 3202, developed and produced in-house in Glashütte.

Measuring 31 mm in diameter and 4.8 mm in height, the movement combines automatic winding with an integrated world time mechanism, 24-hour and day-and-night displays, and Nomos’ proprietary swing system with a blue balance spring. It operates with a power reserve of up to 42 hours.

The Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer dark is available in two references.

In Ref. 793, the movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, where it is finished with characteristic Nomos decoration, including Glashütte ribbing, perlage and temperature-blued screws. The bidirectional rotor is decorated with a gold globe, providing a visual reference to the watch’s world time function.

Ref. 793.SB instead uses a solid caseback, allowing the owner to personalise it with an engraving of up to 88 characters. Nomos provides this personalisation free of charge.

Both references are fitted with the Club Sport stainless steel bracelet, equipped with quick-change spring bars and 20 mm lugs.

The bracelet is integrated into the sporty case design and complements the relatively compact 9.9 mm overall height of the watch.

The watch can also be paired with a leather or textile strap.

The Nomos Glashütte Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer dark Ref. 793, with sapphire crystal caseback, retails at €4,400 / US$5,760, while Ref. 793.SB, with solid caseback and complimentary personalisation, retails at €4,100 / US$5,370. nomos-glashuette.com

Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport: a new expression of the El Primero legacy

2026-10-06T12:40:30.508+02:00

Zenith has expanded the Chronomaster collection with the Chronomaster Solo Sport, a three-hand watch that brings the high-frequency character of the El Primero movement into a more streamlined format.

Introduced in 1969 as the world's first automatic integrated high-frequency chronograph calibre, El Primero established its identity through a 5 Hz regulating organ and has remained one of the most recognisable movements in modern watchmaking.

The Chronomaster Solo Sport retains this technical signature while dispensing with the chronograph display, placing greater emphasis on the rhythm and cadence of the movement.

The watch is housed in a 40 mm x 13.3 mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug distance of 46 mm.

A ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel adds a functional element to the design, while crown protectors frame the screw-down crown.

Water resistance is rated at 20 ATM (200 metres / 660 feet), giving the watch a robust construction suited to both everyday wear and more active environments.

The Chronomaster Solo Sport is offered in four distinct variations.

Three models are equipped with a date display, in black (ref. 03.5000.3620/22.M5000), white (ref. 03.5000.3620/69.M5000) and brown (ref. 03.5001.3620/72.M5000).

In addition, a black execution without a date is available for a more restrained and symmetrical dial configuration (ref. 03.5000.3620/21.M5000).

At the heart of the Chronomaster Solo Sport is the automatic El Primero 3620 calibre, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement.

Operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, the Manufacture movement preserves the high-frequency architecture associated with El Primero.

It features a silicon escapement, stop-second mechanism and bi-directional winding system with a star-shaped rotor, and provides a power reserve of 60 hours.

The high frequency is also expressed visually through the dial. Made from ceramic, the dial features a repeated 45-degree Z motif developed specifically for the Chronomaster Solo Sport.

The pattern is engraved into the sunray-finished white ceramic dial or rendered on the polished black and brown ceramic surfaces.

The same Z motif is also carried onto the counterweight of the central seconds hand, while the peripheral minute track uses Zenith's characteristic shark-tooth design.

The segmented scale recalls historical Zenith references and adds definition to the outer edge of the dial.

All versions are fitted with a three-link stainless steel bracelet secured by Zenith's ZENCLASP folding clasp.

The clasp was developed to combine an ergonomic profile with tool-free adjustment.

Its integrated micro-adjustment system allows the bracelet length to be changed in 2.5 mm increments, with a total adjustment range of 10 mm.

A lift-up safety cover bearing the Zenith star secures the clasp, while the secondary cover provides access to the adjustment mechanism.

ZENCLASP comprises 41 components and was developed over three years, involving approximately 1,800 hours of research, engineering and optimisation. Its durability was tested through more than 600,000 opening and closing cycles, corresponding to more than ten years of simulated use.

The black no-date version of the Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport retails at €9,500 / US$9,800, while the versions equipped with the date display retail at €10,500 / US$10,900. zenith-watches.com

Omega brings James Bond and Spectre together in a new Seamaster Diver 300M collection

2026-10-05T12:02:03.720+02:00

Omega brings James Bond and Spectre together for the first time in a collection of six Seamaster Diver 300M timepieces.

Based on the same 42 mm case and powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, the watches are divided between two stainless-steel models available individually and two limited-edition sets, each combining a stainless-steel watch with a platinum-gold version.

The collection draws on two contrasting sides of the James Bond story.

The Bond watches reference the character’s familiar 007 identity, while the Spectre models take their visual cues from the organisation featured in the 2015 film Spectre.

Each watch carries its respective emblem on the movement rotor, with the James Bond models featuring a gun-barrel decoration and the Spectre versions carrying the Spectre logo.

The two individually available watches are both presented in stainless steel with brushed mesh bracelets.

The James Bond edition, reference 210.30.42.20.03.004, combines a Grade 5 titanium bezel ring with a blue aluminium dial.

The dial is laser-engraved with Omega’s wave pattern, a familiar element of the Seamaster Diver 300M collection, and provides the blue background for the Bond-themed execution.

The Spectre edition, reference 210.30.42.20.01.023, takes a darker approach. Its bezel ring is made from black ceramic, while the dial has a blackened, grained finish.

The combination of the black surfaces and mesh bracelet gives the watch a more restrained appearance than its blue Bond counterpart.

The collection also includes two limited-edition sets, one dedicated to James Bond and the other to Spectre. Each is limited to 77 numbered sets, with the stainless-steel and platinum-gold watches sold exclusively together rather than individually.

These sets are accompanied by dedicated presentation boxes containing an additional NATO strap and strap-changing tool, cufflinks, a cord bracelet, a loupe, a leather travel pouch, a card holder and a certificate of authenticity.

The accessories follow the identity of each set: the James Bond version uses 007 engraving on the strap keepers and a blue travel pouch, while the Spectre set features the organisation’s emblem on the strap keepers, matching cufflinks and cord bracelet, and a black travel pouch.

Within each set, the stainless-steel model is fitted with a brushed mesh bracelet and carries its individual limited-edition number on a plate positioned at 9 o’clock. The platinum-gold watch is paired with a leather strap. All four watches feature a polished and brushed caseback following Omega’s wave-edged design and secured by the brand’s Naiad Lock system.

The platinum-gold versions introduce more elaborate dial and bezel treatments. Their bezel rings are made from polished ceramic, with the diving scales executed in platinum.

The James Bond model, reference 210.83.42.20.03.001, features an 18K white gold dial with a blue PVD gradient and a gun-barrel pattern.

The Spectre version, reference 210.83.42.20.01.001, uses a dark grey 18K white gold dial with a PVD gradient and an octopus motif.

The two platinum-gold watches also distinguish themselves through their movement decoration. Their respective emblems are rendered in 18K Moonshine Gold on the rotor, providing a direct visual link between the movement and the identity of each edition.

All six watches are powered by the automatic Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, operating at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour and providing a power reserve of 55 hours. It includes a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, capable of resisting magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss.

The movement forms the technical common ground of the collection, while the different dial, bezel, bracelet and rotor treatments establish the distinction between the Bond and Spectre versions. Water resistance is rated at 30 bar (300 metres / 1,000 feet).

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004) and Spectre edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023) are available individually and each retails at €8,500. The James Bond and Spectre limited-edition sets are each limited to 77 numbered sets and are sold exclusively as complete sets at the price of €89,300. omegawatches.com

Frederique Constant The Elements Collection 2026 pairs three Manufacture models with mineral dials

2026-10-04T08:55:11.537+02:00

Frederique Constant has presented the 2026 edition of The Elements Collection, a box set bringing together three watches from the Classic collection, each equipped with one of the Geneva-based manufacture’s in-house calibres and paired with a distinctive mineral dial.

Limited to 88 sets, the collection comprises a Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with an onyx dial, a Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with heliotrope and a Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture with turquoise.

The three watches are housed in stainless steel cases with sapphire crystal casebacks and share the same individual number within each set. As the mineral dials are cut from natural stones, no two examples have exactly the same pattern, making each watch visually unique.

The 2026 edition follows the first The Elements Collection set presented in 2025, which brought together five watches.

The new edition takes a more focused approach, combining three complications with three different minerals, while retaining the collection’s connection with Frederique Constant’s Manufacture movements.

The Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture (ref. FC-716ONB3H6) is housed in a 40 mm polished stainless steel case measuring 11.98 mm in height.

Its black onyx dial provides a deep, naturally varied surface for the applied nickel diamond-cut indexes and polished nickel hands.

The hours, minutes and seconds are indicated centrally, while the moon phase display occupies the 6 o’clock position.

Here, the moon phase is rendered against a glossy black background scattered with stars, with the date indicated around its circumference.

The watch is powered by the automatic Manufacture Calibre FC-716, which operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and contains 26 jewels.

Its 72-hour power reserve is complemented by decoration including perlage and fan-shaped Côtes de Genève, visible through the engraved and see-through threaded caseback.

A convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while water resistance is rated at 5 ATM, equivalent to 50 metres / 165 feet.

The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a folding buckle.

The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture (ref. FC-776TU3H6) takes a different mineral approach with a heliotrope dial housed in a 39 mm stainless steel case measuring 11.14 mm in height.

Heliotrope is an oxide mineral containing traces of aluminium, iron and potassium, which can produce inclusions in shades ranging from black and pale or deep green to occasional touches of red. The resulting patterns vary from one fragment of stone to another.

At 6 o’clock, an opening in the dial reveals the 60-second tourbillon of the automatic Manufacture Calibre FC-980-4.

The mechanism is held by a bridge with hand-polished chamfers, while the central small seconds indication is integrated into the tourbillon assembly.

The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a 38-hour power reserve. Its finishing includes hand-applied anglage, circular graining, flanks drawing and mirror polishing, while the escapement uses a silicon escape wheel and anchor.

The tourbillon is individually numbered on its upper bridge and on the movement, reinforcing the individuality created by the natural stone dial. A sapphire caseback reveals the movement, while a convex anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the front.

Water resistance is rated at 5 ATM, and the watch is paired with a dark brown alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a folding buckle.

Completing the set, the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (ref. FC-980HE3H6) uses a 40 mm polished stainless steel case with a height of 12.25 mm and a turquoise stone dial.

Its light colour and natural texture provide a contrasting background for the seven calendar and time indications, comprising hours, minutes, date, day, month, leap year and moon phase.

The displays are arranged with the date at 3 o’clock, day at 9 o’clock, moon phase at 6 o’clock and the month and leap-year indications at 12 o’clock. Applied nickel diamond-cut indexes and polished nickel hands complete the dial.

Powering the watch is the automatic Manufacture Calibre FC-776, Frederique Constant’s 34th in-house movement. Following a recent optimisation, its power reserve has been increased to 72 hours.

The calibre operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and contains 26 jewels, with perlage and fan-shaped Côtes de Genève visible through the engraved and see-through threaded caseback.

The Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a folding buckle.

Like the other two watches, it is protected by a convex anti-reflective sapphire crystal and offers water resistance to 5 ATM, equivalent to 50 metres / 165 feet.

The three watches are individually numbered out of 88 and share the same number within each box set. The mineral dials, meanwhile, ensure that each example has its own natural pattern, while the combination of the three Manufacture complications gives the collection a coherent technical identity.

The Frederique Constant The Elements Collection 2026 is limited to 88 box sets worldwide, with the three watches sold together as a set. For reference, the Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with onyx dial (ref. FC-716ONB3H6) retails at €4,895, the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture with turquoise dial (ref. FC-776TU3H6) at €10,995, and the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with heliotrope dial (ref. FC-980HE3H6) at €15,995. frederiqueconstant.com

Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1: A tribute to The King of Cool

2026-10-03T10:38:21.096+02:00

Hanhart has presented the 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1, a 300-piece edition that revisits one of the most recognisable watches associated with the American actor and racing driver.

Based on the 417 ES, the pilot’s chronograph that McQueen wore both on and away from the racetrack, the new edition retains the historical model’s 39 mm proportions while adding contemporary materials and a hand-wound flyback movement.

The connection between McQueen and the Hanhart 417 ES is documented in numerous photographs, from his motorcycle racing years to his time in California. In 1964, McQueen competed for the United States team at the International Six Days Trial in Erfurt, riding a modified Triumph through six days of competition in the Thuringian Forest.

He later competed in the Baja 1000 and was frequently photographed wearing his Hanhart chronograph. For some motorcycle events, he raced under the name “Harvey Mushman”, allowing him to participate without attracting the attention that accompanied his film career.

Steve McQueen with his wife Neile Adams: Globe Photos / ZUMA Press

The original 417 ES was developed in the mid-1950s as a pilot’s chronograph for the German Bundeswehr. The abbreviation ES refers to Edelstahl, the German word for stainless steel, while the design prioritised legibility, robustness and ease of operation.

The new edition follows those proportions with a 39 mm stainless steel case measuring 13.3 mm in height, including its highly domed sapphire crystal, and 46 mm from lug to lug.

Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet).

The matte black dial carries the historical Hanhart logo together with Steve McQueen’s signature, positioned discreetly at 6 o’clock.

The hands and numerals are coated with Super-LumiNova in a Light Old Radium tone, giving the dial a warm appearance inspired by the aged luminous material found on vintage watches.

The minute and seconds hands have curved-down tips designed to reduce parallax errors. A fluted bidirectional bezel with a red insert and the characteristic red chronograph pusher complete the design.

The red pusher has been part of Hanhart’s chronograph identity for decades. One well-known story attributes the colour to a pilot’s wife who painted the pusher of her husband’s watch with red nail polish as a reminder to return safely.

More practically, the contrasting colour also helped prevent accidental operation of the chronograph reset function. The new edition acknowledges the story in its presentation, with a small bottle of red nail polish included in the box.

Behind the screw-down sapphire case back is Hanhart’s hand-wound AMT5100 M calibre, based on the Sellita AMT platform. The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and provides a power reserve of at least 58 hours.

Alongside the hours, minutes and small seconds, it offers a 30-minute chronograph counter and a flyback function, allowing the running chronograph to be reset and immediately restarted with a single operation. Hacking seconds are also provided for precise time setting.

Hanhart regulates each movement at its manufacture in Gütenbach according to its own accuracy standard, with an average daily rate between 0 and +8 seconds across six positions.

The historical connection extends to the way the watch is worn. Photographs of McQueen show his 417 ES fitted to a dark brown cuff strap, with the leather running continuously underneath the case.

The new edition follows this configuration with a padded dark brown Shell Cordovan strap produced by an Italian tannery. Shell Cordovan is made from the dense fibrous layer of the horse’s hindquarters and is traditionally vegetable-tanned, producing a smooth and durable leather with a natural lustre. The strap is secured by a pin buckle bearing Hanhart’s historical logo.

The 20 mm lug width also allows the watch to be fitted with the other straps available for the 417 ES 39 mm, including black, dark brown and light brown leather options, as well as Hanhart’s newer-generation stainless steel bracelet with tool-free micro-adjustment.

All are equipped with quick-release spring bars.

The presentation box contains a booklet, a numbered plaque, the red nail polish and a limited-edition card inspired by McQueen’s 1964 international FIM racing licence.

The card is signed by his grandchildren, Chase and Madison McQueen, who were involved in the development of the edition and approved the use of their grandfather’s signature on the dial. The reverse also carries the signature of the watchmaker who assembles the chronograph in Gütenbach.

The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is limited to 300 pieces worldwide. Reference H705L.210-2110 is supplied with the dark brown Shell Cordovan cuff strap and retails at €2,890 including German VAT. hanhart.com

Inside the Patek Philippe WATCH ART Grand Exhibition Milano 2026

2026-10-02T18:55:09.726+02:00

Patek Philippe’s WATCH ART Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 opened today at CityOval in Milan’s CityLife district, bringing together more than 500 watches, movements and objects across approximately 2,900 square metres.

We had the opportunity to visit the exhibition ahead of its public opening, spending several hours moving through its different rooms and discovering an exceptionally broad selection of contemporary watches, historical pieces, Rare Handcrafts and material from the manufacture’s archives.

Now in its seventh edition, WATCH ART has previously travelled to Dubai, Munich, London, New York, Singapore and Tokyo.

Milan marks the first time the exhibition has been held in Italy and, in terms of scale, is the largest edition to date.

The setting is CityOval, the restored building formerly known as the Palazzo delle Scintille, whose 30-metre-high dome provides a striking architectural backdrop.

Rather than presenting the watches as a conventional trade exhibition, the layout is designed as a sequence of environments that reconstruct different aspects of Patek Philippe’s world, from its Geneva locations to its workshops, museum and archives.

The first impression is deliberately theatrical, with references to Geneva appearing throughout the exhibition.

A sculpture measuring 9 meters high and 4.5 meters wide, composed of more than 2,000 translucent droplets, represents the “Jet d’Eau”, one of Geneva’s symbols.

Streets, architectural elements and installations evoke the city where Patek Philippe has been based since its foundation, while the different rooms gradually move from the current collection towards historical watches, technical subjects and decorative crafts.

The layout makes it possible to see the breadth of the collection without reducing the exhibition to a succession of display cases.

One of the central areas is devoted to the current collection. Here, the watches are arranged across the main families and complications, offering a useful overview of the present-day catalogue.

The selection ranges from the familiar Calatrava, Nautilus and Aquanaut designs to perpetual calendars, chronographs, minute repeaters and other complicated watches.

Seen together in one space, the collection reveals how differently Patek Philippe approaches watches at very different levels of complexity.

The Rare Handcrafts section changes the pace considerably.

Instead of focusing primarily on mechanical construction, the displays concentrate on techniques including miniature painting on enamel, cloisonné enamel, hand engraving, micro-wood marquetry, hand-executed guilloché and gem-setting.

Around 25 exceptional pieces created with Italian themes are presented, including wristwatches, pocket watches and clocks.

The Italian references are particularly effective here because they allow the crafts themselves to remain at the centre while connecting the objects to places, architecture and artistic traditions familiar to the exhibition’s Milanese audience.

The presence of artisans working in front of visitors adds another dimension to this section. Watching a craftsperson work on a dial or decorative element makes the considerable amount of manual intervention behind these objects easier to understand.

Another room takes the visitor into the manufacture itself, focusing on movements and the production of their components.

Movements are displayed alongside explanations of the stages involved in producing and finishing watch parts, while areas dedicated to research and development provide a glimpse into the technical work that precedes the final assembly of a calibre.

The possibility of speaking with engineers and specialists makes this section more than a static presentation and gives visitors the opportunity to ask about aspects of movement development that are normally hidden from view.

The historical section is particularly impressive. Around 80 pieces from the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva have travelled to Milan, bringing together objects from the museum’s Antique Collection and the Patek Philippe Collection.

The selection reaches from early watches and horological instruments to important examples from Patek Philippe’s own history. Among the highlights are the first known Patek Philippe perpetual calendar wristwatch from 1925, the 1948 World Time Ref. 1415 HU and a 1918 pocket watch with minute repeater and 30-day power reserve that once belonged to James Ward Packard.

The historical owners section adds a more personal dimension to this part of the exhibition. Watches associated with figures such as Queen Victoria and Pope Leo XIII are displayed alongside other objects connected to notable owners. These pieces provide a different way of looking at watch history, placing individual objects within the circumstances in which they were commissioned, presented or worn.

We also enjoyed the new area devoted to Patek Philippe’s historical archives. Documents and other material preserved by the manufacture are presented here, including items that have not previously been shown publicly.

For an exhibition otherwise dominated by finished watches, this section provides a useful reminder that the history of a watchmaker is also contained in drawings, correspondence, technical records and other documents that rarely leave the archive.

The section dedicated to complicated watches is naturally one of the exhibition’s major attractions. It brings together a wide selection of high-complexity timepieces, with a separate area devoted to supercomplications.

Among the pieces on display are the Calibre 89 and Star Caliber 2000, two landmarks in Patek Philippe’s history of complicated watchmaking.

The “Master of Sound” room concentrates on chiming watches. Here, the Grandmaster Chime, with its 20 complications, is displayed alongside other minute repeaters and chiming mechanisms, including the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R-001.

The atmosphere is noticeably different from the rest of the exhibition, and demonstrations by master watchmakers provide an opportunity to see some of these mechanisms being operated and explained rather than simply viewed through glass.

The Milan exhibition also provides the setting for the Milano Special Collection, seven limited editions created specifically for the Italian market.

The platinum Ref. 5978P-010 combines a manually wound chronograph with an instantaneous perpetual calendar, powered by the new Calibre CHR 29-535 PS QI.

The calendar indications are displayed through apertures, with the day and month at 12 o’clock and the date at 6 o’clock, while the platinum case and black dial give the technically complex watch a restrained appearance.

The Calatrava trio takes a more direct visual approach to the Italian connection. The three watches share a design inspired by the Ref. 6007 and are distinguished by green, white and red accents corresponding to the colours of the Italian flag: a perpetual calendar with a green dial and strap (Ref. 7147G-010), a Calatrava with a white dial and strap (Ref. 7007G-010), and a sporty minute repeater with a red lacquered dial and matching alligator leather (Ref. 7047G-010).

The two World Time Minute Repeaters, Refs. 5531G-012 and 5531G-013, feature cloisonné Grand Feu enamel scenes of Milan at the centre of their dials. One depicts the city by day and the other by night, surrounded by the World Time display and paired with the minute repeater mechanism.

A further highlight is the new Gondolo Ladies First collection, comprising six watches that reinterpret the cushion-shaped, Art Deco-influenced Gondolo design in a more contemporary and colourful form. The collection includes both precious-metal and gem-set versions, with softly rounded cases, articulated lugs and richly coloured dials and straps.

All six use quartz Calibre E15 movements, placing the emphasis on the case, dial and gem-setting rather than on mechanical complexity.

The Gondolo presentation also provides an interesting link with Patek Philippe’s more recent history. The collection recalls the Ladies First Chronograph introduced in 2009, when Patek Philippe presented its first in-house manually wound chronograph movement specifically in a women’s watch.

The new Gondolo Ladies First takes a different approach, combining jewellery-watch aesthetics with the practicality of a quartz movement.

After moving through the different sections, what remains most striking is the extraordinary range of objects on display, bringing together contemporary pieces, historical watches, museum items, complicated movements, decorative crafts, production techniques and archival material within the same space. It is an unusually comprehensive view of a watch manufacture, allowing connections between these diverse areas to become clearly visible.

For anyone passionate about fine watchmaking, it provides an unparalleled overview of Patek Philippe’s heritage, craftsmanship and design.

Further coverage of some of the new models presented in Milan will follow soon.

Patek Philippe WATCH ART Grand Exhibition Milano 2026
Open from Friday 2nd to Sunday 18th October 2026
CityOval - CityLife
Palazzo delle Scintille
Piazza Sei Febbraio, Milan, Italy

Armin Strom Tribute 3 Au750: 18K rose gold from case to calibre

2026-10-02T11:08:50.533+02:00

Armin Strom has unveiled the Tribute 3 Au750, a new interpretation of the Tribute model in which 18K rose gold extends from the case and off-centre dial into the architecture of the movement.

Limited to eight pieces, the watch combines three distinct guilloché patterns with the Manufacture’s hand-wound Calibre AMW21.

Measuring 38 mm in diameter and 9.38 mm in height, the Tribute 3 Au750 is equipped with front and rear sapphire crystals featuring anti-reflective treatment.

The compact case frames an off-centre 18K rose gold dial decorated with a radiating soleil guilloché pattern and Roman numerals. The surrounding surface is decorated with a grain d’orge guilloché pattern.

Grey PVD-coated stainless steel Breguet-style hands, manufactured and hand-finished by Armin Strom, provide the hours, minutes and seconds indications. Their darker finish contrasts with the warm tone of the gold and the textured surfaces of the dial.

Gold continues into the visible barrel, held beneath a mirror-polished 18K rose gold finger bridge.

The reverse offers a view of the three-quarter bridge, also crafted from 18K rose gold and decorated with a clou de Paris guilloché pattern.

Its hand-bevelled edges stand out sharply against the grey PVD-coated mainplate, establishing a clear visual separation between the warm gold structure and the darker surfaces of the movement.

The movement combines several traditional finishing techniques.

Alongside the guilloché work and mirror polishing, the finishing includes hand-polished bevels, frosted surfaces, circular graining and black-polished screws.

The different treatments give the movement a varied surface texture while keeping its architectural elements clearly defined.

Entirely in-house designed and developed, the hand-wound Manufacture Calibre AMW21 measures 33.5 mm in diameter and 4.2 mm thick. It comprises 135 components and 21 jewels and operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz, or 25,200 vibrations per hour.

Its regulating system combines a flat hairspring with a variable-inertia balance wheel.

The movement achieves a 100-hour power reserve through a motor-barrel construction with a reversed architecture.

This arrangement allows the arbor to wind the mainspring within a fixed barrel drum, making efficient use of the available space while keeping the movement relatively compact.

Remarkably, 97% of the calibre’s components are produced entirely in-house by the Manufacture.

As with every Armin Strom timepiece, the Tribute 3 Au750 is assembled twice as part of the brand’s production process. The approach is intended to verify both the mechanical performance and the quality of the finishing before the watch is completed.

Water resistance is rated at 5 ATM, equivalent to 50 metres (165 feet). The Tribute 3 Au750 is fitted with a grey nubuck leather strap with grey stitching and an 18K rose gold pin buckle. The lug width is 18 mm.

Reference RG26-TRI.AU is limited to eight pieces worldwide and retails at CHF 69,000. arminstrom.com

Eberhard & Co. presents the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX Bronze Edition at the Genoa Boat Show

2026-10-01T07:55:00.000+02:00

Eberhard & Co., official timekeeper of the 2026 Genoa International Boat Show (October 1-6), has unveiled the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX Bronze Edition, a special version of the new diving watch line launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva.

For the fifth consecutive year, Eberhard & Co. presented a new creation at the show.

The new model combines a stainless steel case with a bronze bezel and crown, introducing the gradual patina of the material into the design of a collection rooted in the brand’s maritime history.

The relationship between Eberhard & Co. and the world of the sea dates back to the 1930s, when officers of the Italian Royal Navy received chronographs from the Maison. The Scafograf collection itself dates to 1959 and has since evolved through different models and technical configurations.

The Scafograf 200 MCMLIX Bronze Edition retains the 39 mm case of the existing collection, with a thickness of 12.30 mm and 19 mm lug width.

The stainless steel case has a satin finish with polished profiles and is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with an internal anti-reflective treatment.

Water resistance is rated at 200 metres / 660 feet, backed by professional diving specifications that include a screw-down crown and an automatic helium escape valve positioned at 9 o'clock.

Bronze is used for both the unidirectional rotating bezel and the screw-down crown. The bezel carries a black ceramic insert with bronze-coloured details and vintage luminescence applied to the first quarter of the minute scale.

The sexagesimal graduation is intended for measuring elapsed diving time, while the bronze crown is customised with a raised “E”.

The black dial follows the graphic language of the Scafograf 200 MCMLIX, with applied round and triangular indexes outlined in polished bronze-coloured profiles.

Vintage luminescence is applied to the indexes and hands, while a laser-engraved peripheral minute scale surrounds the dial.

The hour hand retains the triangular tip associated with the original 1959 Scafograf, while the baton-style minute hand and central seconds hand complete the display. The seconds hand incorporates a luminous circular element.

The movement is a Swiss self-winding movement operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The Scafograf 200 MCMLIX Bronze Edition is offered in three configurations. The first is a black water-resistant leather strap with a vintage appearance and bronze-coloured stitching near the lugs, secured by a custom Eberhard & Co. steel buckle. An optional DÉCLIC deployant clasp is also available.

The second pairs the watch with a woven Milanese-style steel mesh bracelet fitted with a two-push-button 2CLICK deployant clasp.

A third option uses uses Eberhard & Co.’s Chassis satin-finished steel bracelet with polished profiles and the same 2CLICK clasp.

The screw-fixed stainless steel case back is customised with a starfish rendered in 5N gold-coloured PVD, the symbol associated with the Scafograf collection.

The Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 200 MCMLIX Bronze Edition, ref. 41147, is presented at the 2026 Genoa International Boat Show. The price has yet to be confirmed. eberhard-co-watches.ch

Bulgari Titanio GMT and Titanio Chronograph pair titanium with black rubber

2026-09-30T07:55:00.000+02:00

Bulgari has extended its Aluminium collection with two watches in Grade 5 titanium, the Titanio GMT and Titanio Chronograph.

The new models retain the collection’s combination of a sculpted case, rubber and graphic dial design, while replacing aluminium with a material chosen for its lightness, resistance and contemporary appearance.

The story of the Bvlgari Aluminium model began in 1998, when the Roman maison combined aluminium and rubber to establish a different approach to the luxury sports watch.

The design drew on the aesthetic language of the Bvlgari Roma, introduced in 1975 and renamed Bvlgari Bvlgari in 1977, while using lightweight materials to create a more contemporary expression. The evolution of Bulgari’s watchmaking and the significance of these designs are explored in our feature, The history of Bulgari watches.

The new Titanio models continue this approach through the use of Grade 5 titanium, presented in brushed and sandblasted finishes with deep matte grey tones.

The material is resistant to shocks, scratches, and corrosion while remaining lightweight, making it ideally suited to the everyday and sporting character of the collection. Contrasting black rubber elements further accentuate its dynamic aesthetic.

The Bulgari Titanio GMT ref. 104300 is housed in a 40 mm sandblasted titanium case measuring 9.70 mm thick.

Its black rubber bezel is combined with a sandblasted titanium crown treated with black DLC, while the case back uses sandblasted and satin-finished titanium with the same black DLC treatment.

Water resistance is rated at 100 metres / 330 feet.

The dial combines matte and glossy black surfaces and incorporates a 24-hour disc with day-night indication for the GMT display.

White indexes provide contrast, while the grey galvanic-treated brass hour and minute hands, central seconds hand and GMT hand are treated with Super-LumiNova. The date aperture is positioned at 3 o’clock.

Powering the GMT is Bulgari Calibre B192, an automatic mechanical movement measuring 4.10 mm thick. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and provides a power reserve of 50 hours. The movement drives the hours, minutes, central seconds, GMT and date functions.

The watch is fitted with a black rubber strap incorporating sandblasted titanium links and a buckle with a hook-and-loop system. An additional bracelet with a titanium pin buckle is also available.

The Bulgari Titanio Chronograph ref. 104299 takes the same material combination into a larger 41 mm case measuring 12.35 mm thick.

Its sandblasted titanium case is paired with a black rubber bezel, while the crown and chronograph pushers receive black DLC treatment.

The case back is again made from sandblasted and satin-finished titanium with black DLC treatment.

Water resistance is rated at 100 metres.

The chronograph has a matte varnish black dial with azure circular counters, white indexes and a tachymetric scale.

Grey galvanic-treated brass hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, while the central chronograph seconds hand has a white lacquered tip. The chronograph counter hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova. A date aperture is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Inside the case is Bulgari Calibre B381, an automatic mechanical chronograph movement measuring 6.90 mm thick. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

Like the GMT, the Titanio Chronograph is fitted with a black rubber strap with sandblasted titanium links and a hook-and-loop buckle system. A titanium bracelet with pin buckle is available as an additional option.

The Bulgari Titanio GMT, reference 104300, retails at €4,900, while the Bulgari Titanio Chronograph, reference 104299, retails at €6,200. bulgari.com

Oris x Cervo Volante dresses the Big Crown Pointer Date in autumnal burgundy

2026-09-29T14:00:00.000+02:00

Oris returns to its collaboration with Swiss leather company Cervo Volante for a burgundy special edition of the Big Crown Pointer Date.

The watch pairs a stainless steel case and burgundy dial with a sustainable brown strap made from Cervo Volante deer leather, echoing the autumn colours of the Waldenburg Valley surrounding Oris’s Hölstein headquarters.

Founded in 2017 by two entrepreneurs with backgrounds in biotech and wildlife management, Cervo Volante crafts footwear and accessories from deer leather sourced via Switzerland’s population management programmes, using skins that would otherwise be discarded. The leather is naturally tanned in one of Switzerland's last remaining vegetable tanneries, retaining natural imperfections as part of its character.

The collaboration is centred on the Big Crown Pointer Date, a model that has been part of the Oris collection since 1938. The watch retains the defining elements of the design, including the fluted bezel, oversized crown and central pointer date hand, while adopting a burgundy dial for this edition.

The typical round case with fluted bezel measures 40 mm in diameter, 48.20 mm from lug to lug and 12.20 mm thick. It is constructed from multiple pieces and topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside.

The burgundy dial has printed indices and numbers, with Super-LumiNova applied to the indices, numbers and hands.

The date is indicated by a central pointer hand, preserving one of the characteristic features of the Big Crown Pointer Date.

A screwed stainless steel case back with a see-through mineral glass aperture provides a view of the movement, while a stainless steel screw-in security crown contributes to the water resistance of 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet).

Powering the watch is Oris Calibre 754, an automatic movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and providing a power reserve of 41 hours. It features central hours, minutes and seconds, a pointer date with instantaneous date, and stop-second function.

The watch is fitted with a brown Cervo Volante strap and equipped with a quick strap change system. Each watch is also supplied with a travel pouch made from the same Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather.

The Oris x Cervo Volante special edition, reference 01 754 7785 4038-Set, retails at CHF 2,250 / €2,250. oris.ch

Alpina introduces Seastrong Diver and Alpiner Extreme editions for the “Route du Rhum”

2026-09-28T13:42:48.523+02:00

Alpina, official timekeeper of the 13th Route du Rhum – Destination Guadeloupe, has presented two limited-edition watches for the upcoming 2026 race.

The Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic and Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre combine the brand’s sporting watch designs with details referencing the route from Saint-Malo to Pointe-à-Pitre.

The race will start on 1 November 2026, with competitors setting sail from Saint-Malo for Guadeloupe. The current record for the route stands at 6 days, 19 hours, 47 minutes and 25 seconds. Among this year’s competitors is French skipper Éric Péron, who is supported by Alpina.

The first of the two watches is the Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic “Route du Rhum”, limited to 313 individually numbered pieces, corresponding to the race’s 13th edition.

The model draws on the Seastrong, Alpina’s diving watch originally introduced in the 1960s and reinterpreted in 2024, adapting it for the occasion with a turquoise dial engraved with a pattern representing Atlantic Ocean currents.

The dial is framed by a turquoise outer ring with a white minute track and features applied silver-coloured indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova Grade X1.

Silver-coloured hour and minute hands use the same luminous treatment, while the seconds hand has a red triangle. A date display is positioned at 6 o’clock, with the number 13 appearing in red as a reference to the edition of the race.

The watch is housed in a brushed and polished three-part stainless steel case measuring 39.00 by 40.50 mm and 13.40 mm thick. Its bidirectional bezel incorporates a carbon-fibre insert and a compass graduation, while an anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the dial.

The screw-down crown is designed with a rubber grip, and a screwed solid case back carries a decoration depicting the Route du Rhum course from Saint-Malo to the Caribbean.

Water resistance is rated at 30 bar, equivalent to 300 metres / 1,000 feet.

Inside is Alpina Calibre AL-525, an automatic movement comprising 198 components and 24 jewels. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, the movement provides a power reserve of 38 hours.

The Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic is fitted with a two-tone rubber strap featuring a textured black central section and contrasting turquoise side sections, secured by a stainless steel pin buckle. The colour combination echoes the dial and bezel while maintaining the watch’s maritime theme.

The second model, the Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre “Route du Rhum”, takes a different approach to endurance, using solar-powered quartz technology.

Limited to 513 pieces, the watch shares several visual elements with the Seastrong edition, including turquoise detailing, a carbon-fibre bezel insert and a case back engraved with the race route.

The Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre measures 37.50 by 38.90 mm and 10.19 mm thick. Its brushed and polished three-part stainless steel case is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a standard crown, while water resistance is rated at 10 bar.

The black matt dial features a triangular pattern, a turquoise outer ring and a white minute track. Applied silver-coloured indexes are filled with white luminous material, with a blue triangle at 12 o’clock surrounded by blue luminous treatment.

The date is displayed at 3 o’clock, and the silver-coloured seconds hand features a blue triangle.

Power comes from Alpina Calibre AL-140, a solar quartz movement based on a La Joux-Perret calibre, presented earlier this year. According to Alpina, the system can continue running for up to 10 months in complete darkness.

The solar technology uses a translucent dial that allows light to reach the cells beneath its surface, where energy is captured and stored in a rechargeable battery.

Alpina states that one minute of exposure to light is sufficient to provide a full day of operation, while the watch can restart after approximately 10 seconds once exposed to light following a fully depleted battery.

The Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre is fitted with a black rubber strap and stainless steel pin buckle.

Both watches are presented as limited editions created specifically for the 13th Route du Rhum, linking Alpina’s maritime and outdoor-oriented watchmaking with the demands of the race.

The Alpina Seastrong Extreme Automatic x Route du Rhum, reference AL-525T3VE6, is limited to 313 pieces and retails at €2,195. The Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre x Route du Rhum, reference AL-140BT3AE6, is limited to 513 pieces and retails at €1,095. alpinawatches.com

Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback gain new blue versions

2026-09-27T07:53:07.870+02:00

Longines has expanded its Spirit collection with four new models for 2026: two versions of the Spirit Pilot and two Spirit Pilot Flyback chronographs.

All four feature matt blue dials and are officially certified as COSC chronometers, combining the collection’s aviation-inspired design with contemporary mechanical movements.

The new watches continue a line of pilot-inspired timepieces that draws on Longines’ involvement in aviation dating back nearly a century.

Introduced in 2020, the Spirit collection brings this heritage into a contemporary watch design.

The new Spirit Pilot is based on the model introduced in 2025 and adopts a 39 mm stainless steel case measuring 11.5 mm thick and 47.4 mm from lug to lug.

Its matt blue dial features a refined minute track, applied rhodium-plated Arabic numerals and rhodium-plated hands, all treated with Super-LumiNova for legibility.

A screw-in crown and screw-down case back contribute to a water-resistance rating of 10 bar, equivalent to 100 metres / 330 feet.

Inside, the Spirit Pilot is powered by the exclusive Longines automatic Calibre L888.4. Equipped with a silicon balance spring, the movement offers magnetic resistance up to ten times greater than the ISO 764 standard.

Operating at 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz) and delivering a 72-hour power reserve, the calibre is officially COSC-certified as a chronometer.

The Spirit Pilot is available with either a stainless steel bracelet fitted with a double safety folding clasp and micro-adjustment system or a Swiss-made blue rubber strap with a pin buckle and interchangeable system.

The Spirit Pilot Flyback takes the collection’s aviation theme into chronograph territory. The model is housed in a 39.5 mm stainless steel case measuring 13.4 mm thick, with a 47.4 mm lug-to-lug length.

Its matt blue dial is paired with a bidirectional rotating bezel featuring a blue ceramic insert and a countdown timer.

The bezel carries Arabic numerals, baton indexes and a triangle reference mark, with Super-LumiNova treatment applied to the relevant elements.

The dial follows the functional layout of a pilot chronograph, with small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a central 60-second chronograph hand.

Applied rhodium-plated Arabic numerals and rhodium-plated hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, while a box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to the aviation-inspired design.

The Spirit Pilot Flyback is powered by the hand-wound Longines-exclusive Calibre L792.4, a column-wheel chronograph movement with a flyback function.

The calibre incorporates a silicon balance spring and components designed for increased magnetic resistance, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and contains 23 jewels. Its power reserve extends to 68 hours, and the movement is officially certified as a COSC chronometer.

The movement can be viewed through a transparent screw-down case back fitted with a sapphire crystal. The case also features a stainless steel crown and chronograph pusher, while water resistance is rated at 10 bar, or 100 metres / 330 feet.

As with the three-hand model, the Spirit Pilot Flyback is offered on either a stainless steel bracelet with micro-adjustment or a blue rubber strap with an interchangeable system.

The Longines Spirit Pilot, reference L3.809.4.93.6, retails at €3,000 / US$3,100 on a stainless steel bracelet, while reference L3.809.4.93.9 is priced at €2,600 / US$2,700 on a blue rubber strap.

The Spirit Pilot Flyback, reference L3.721.4.93.6, retails at €5,500 / US$5,550 on a stainless steel bracelet, while reference L3.721.4.93.9 is priced at €5,150 / US$5,250 on a blue rubber strap. longines.com

Breguet adds new guilloché versions to the Marine 5517 and 5527

2026-09-26T08:07:37.089+02:00

Breguet has presented new versions of the Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527, combining the collection’s contemporary nautical design with hand-guilloché dials in the “Quai de l’Horloge” pattern.

The new references also reposition the date at 6 o’clock, while retaining the collection’s three-hand and flyback chronograph configurations.

The Marine collection draws on an important chapter in Breguet’s history. From the late eighteenth century, Abraham-Louis Breguet developed timepieces as scientific instruments, with precision, reliability and legibility suited to navigation.

In 1815, following his admission to the Bureau des Longitudes the previous year, Louis XVIII appointed him Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy.

His marine chronometers subsequently accompanied navigators and explorers, including Louis Le Goarant de Tromelin, whose Pacific expeditions were accompanied by Breguet No. 3502, and Hyacinthe de Bougainville, who travelled around the world with No. 3588 between 1824 and 1826. In 1840, a Breguet instrument also accompanied Jules Dumont d’Urville to Antarctica.

The contemporary Marine collection translates this maritime heritage into a modern design language centred on robustness, performance and navigation-inspired details.

In the new Marine 5517, the three-hand display is paired with a date at 6 o’clock, creating a more symmetrical dial layout.

The 5517 dials are executed in 18-carat gold and feature hand-guilloché decoration in Breguet’s “Quai de l’Horloge” pattern.

Introduced in the Classique Souscription for the Maison’s 250th anniversary, the motif takes its name from the address on the Île de la Cité where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop and where marine chronometers were produced. Its design draws on the contours of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis while also suggesting the movement of waves.

The guilloché is applied to the gold dial before the surface is treated and lacquered, producing different colours according to the version.

The white-gold model has an ice-blue dial, the rose-gold version is presented in black, while the titanium model uses a blue gradient.

Each dial is completed by a gold Breguet appliqué at 12 o’clock and Breguet Arabic numerals on the hour ring.

The hour and minute hands retain the Maison’s characteristic form, while the seconds hand incorporates a “B” shape, referencing the “Bravo” maritime flag. The crown guard is shaped to evoke the movement of waves.

The Marine 5517 measures 40 mm in diameter, 47.7 mm from lug to lug and 11.5 mm thick. The case is available in 18-carat white gold, 18-carat rose gold or titanium and features a fluted middle case, screw-down crown and sapphire crystals on both sides.

The front crystal has double-sided anti-reflective treatment, while the case-back crystal has a single anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance is rated at 10 bar, equivalent to 100 metres.

Powering the Marine 5517 is Breguet Calibre 777A, a self-winding movement measuring 33 mm in diameter and 4.3 mm thick. Numbered and signed by Breguet, it comprises 235 components and 26 jewels and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz.

The movement provides a 55-hour power reserve and uses a silicon balance spring and silicon escape wheel. Visible through the sapphire case back, its gold oscillating weight is shaped with lines inspired by a ship’s rudder and combines several finishing techniques.

The Marine 5517 can be fitted with a rubber strap decorated with a motif echoing the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché or with a matching metal bracelet.

The white-gold version is available with either an ice-blue dial and rubber strap or an 18-carat white-gold bracelet. The rose-gold model combines its black dial with either a rubber strap or an 18-carat rose-gold bracelet, while the titanium version has a blue-gradient dial and is offered with either a rubber or titanium bracelet.

The Marine Chronographe 5527 takes the same dial and case language into a larger chronograph format. Measuring 42.3 mm in diameter, 50.7 mm from lug to lug and 13.9 mm thick, it is available in 18-carat white gold, 18-carat rose gold or titanium.

As with the 5517, the case has a fluted middle, a screw-down crown, sapphire crystals on both sides and 10-bar water resistance.

The 5527 uses a flyback chronograph configuration, with a large central seconds hand and two sub-dials positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The 3 o’clock counter displays chronograph minutes, while the 9 o’clock counter shows the small seconds. The date is positioned at 6 o’clock, maintaining the balanced arrangement of the dial.

The 18-carat gold dials feature the same hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” pattern as the 5517, with blue gradient treatments on the white-gold and rose-gold versions and a grey gradient on the titanium model.

Breguet Arabic numerals are displayed on the hour ring, while the gold appliqué at 12 o’clock and the hands are matched to the treatment of each version. The central chronograph hand again incorporates the “B” motif associated with the “Bravo” maritime flag.

Inside the Marine Chronographe 5527 is Breguet Calibre 582QA, a self-winding flyback chronograph movement measuring 30 mm in diameter and 6.5 mm thick.

The calibre contains 343 components and 28 jewels and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz.

It provides a 48-hour power reserve and incorporates a silicon balance spring and silicon inverted anchor. The movement is numbered and signed by Breguet and is visible through the sapphire case back, where its gold oscillating weight follows the rudder-inspired design used for the Marine 5517.

The Breguet Marine 5517 is priced at €44,000 on a rubber strap in white or rose gold and €23,800 in titanium. The corresponding metal-bracelet versions retail at €72,300 in white or rose gold and €27,000 in titanium.

The Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 retails at €53,600 on a rubber strap in white or rose gold and €29,800 in titanium, while the versions on matching metal bracelets are priced at €84,600 in white or rose gold and €33,000 in titanium. breguet.com

Oris Social Club Edition II: a community-focused design for the Aquis Date

2026-09-25T12:00:10.199+02:00

Oris has introduced the Oris Social Club Edition II, a limited community edition created in collaboration with members of the Oris Social Club.

Based on the Aquis Date Relief 43.50 mm, the watch brings together the 62 Oris Social Club chapters around the world in a single design, with a frosted silver dial, an olive green NATO strap and dedicated details on the date display and case back.

The Oris Social Club Edition II uses the multi-piece stainless steel case of the Aquis Date Relief, measuring 43.50 mm in diameter, 51.00 mm from lug to lug and 13.10 mm thick.

The case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside and fitted with a stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel. Its insert carries the raised minute scale of the Aquis Date Relief design.

A stainless steel screw-down security crown with crown protection contributes to the watch’s water resistance of 30 bar, equivalent to 300 metres.

The most distinctive element is the white-silver dial, which has a frosted texture intended by Oris to evoke the fingerprint of a community.

Applied indices and the hands are treated with Super-LumiNova for visibility in low-light conditions.

The date window at 6 o’clock includes a further reference to the Oris Social Club: on the first day of every month, the Oris Bear appears in the date aperture with a winking expression.

The watch is fitted to an olive green NATO strap, marking the first time in more than a decade that Oris has presented an Aquis Date on a NATO strap.

The 23 mm interhorn width accommodates the textile strap, which gives the otherwise substantial dive watch a more informal configuration.

Powering the watch is the automatic Oris Calibre 733, based on a movement measuring 25.60 mm in diameter and 11½ lignes. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and uses 26 jewels.

The movement provides a power reserve of 41 hours and features central hours, minutes and seconds, an instantaneous date, a date corrector, a fine timing device and a stop-second function.

The stainless steel case back is screwed and carries special engravings created for the edition.

An outline of the Oris factory in Hölstein is accompanied by the inscription “OSC | INT”, identifying the watch as a product of the international Oris Social Club community.

The Oris Social Club Edition II, reference 01 733 7789 4121-Set, is available at a retail price of CHF 2,100 / €2,100 / US$2,600. oris.ch

Grönefeld 1941 Quadrivium combines four of the brand’s signature complications

2026-09-24T11:57:42.386+02:00

Dutch watchmakers Bart and Tim Grönefeld have presented the 1941 Quadrivium, a new complicated timepiece that brings together a 7.5-second remontoire, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds and a power-reserve indicator in a newly developed movement.

The name Quadrivium refers to the four disciplines of classical scholarship—arithmetic, geometry, music and astronomy—which were traditionally regarded as interconnected fields of study.

Here, the term is applied to the four mechanical complications brought together in the watch, drawing on technical concepts associated with several of Grönefeld’s earlier creations, including the One Hertz, Parallax Tourbillon and Remontoire.

The 1941 Quadrivium is housed in the brand’s 1941 case design, first introduced in 2016 and subsequently used for watches including the Remontoire, Principia, Decennium and Grönograaf.

The case measures 40.0 mm in diameter and 11.3 mm in height.

The dial is structured around the four complications. A raised one-minute flying tourbillon occupies the 6 o’clock position, while an exposed governor at 9 o’clock rotates once every 7.5 seconds as part of the remontoire mechanism.

Central jumping seconds provide a direct indication of the seconds, while the 50-hour power-reserve indicator is positioned at 10 o’clock. Hours and minutes are displayed at 2 o’clock.

The dial combines a finely frosted main surface with hand-bevelled stainless steel elements and polished, multi-faceted white gold hour markers.

Blued steel hands complete the design. Five base colours will be offered for the dial, with the specific colours to be announced by Grönefeld at a later date.

The movement has been developed specifically for the 1941 Quadrivium and comprises 473 components.

Its energy is supplied by two concentric barrels connected in series, providing the power required to drive the four complications.

The movement architecture is visible through a sapphire exhibition case back, with its finishing forming an integral part of the watch’s visual presentation.

The remontoire operates at 7.5-second intervals, while the central seconds hand advances in one-second jumps.

The watch also incorporates a hacking-seconds function, with the tourbillon stopping when it reaches the 60-second position to allow the time to be set precisely.

The 1941 Quadrivium will be produced in two limited editions of 28 pieces each.

The Première Edition features a tantalum case and matching buckle, while the second edition uses platinum for both components.

The Grönefeld 1941 Quadrivium retails at €280,000 in tantalum and €310,000 in platinum, excluding taxes. Deliveries of the tantalum Première Edition are scheduled to begin in 2027. gronefeld.com

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