West Africa can not compete with East and Southern Africa when it comes to National Geographic level fauna. Expansive human settlement and overhunting are the main reasons for that. But that doesn’t mean you have to settle for pied plovers and green monkeys (no disrespect to them). Increased conservation efforts and a growing spotlight on the benefits of tourism are creating the conditions for revitalized game reserves.

When you look at a map of West Africa, you will see nature reserves all over the place. But many parks are poorly maintained and have little in the way of infrastructure. Spotting wildlife may be difficult. But some of the parks are worth planning a trip around. Here are our favorite wildlife parks in the region.

Pendjari National Park, Benin

This is hands down the best park in West Africa. Unfortunately, we would not recommend visiting it as of this writing (September 2022). Two tourists were kidnapped in the park a couple of years ago and since then the security situation has only gotten worse. The close proximity to Southeast Burkina Faso, where insecurity has reined for some time now, does not bode well for future visits to Pendjari in the short-term. We will update this page if the situation changes.

Niokolo Koba National Park, Senegal

Niokolo Koba National Park may seem like a left field candidate for second on the list here. Don’t get too caught up in the order. These are not real rankings. Niokolo Koba would not even be on this list if we were writing this post some years ago. The park had little in the way of infrastructure and wildlife. Poaching was rife. A change in park management and endangered World Heritage Status since 2007 has revitalized the park and we would now consider it one of the best “wild” parks to visit in West Africa.

Despite the fact that their website still looks like it was made in 1998, Niokolo Koba has a revived lion population, which they are diligently tracking. It is also still the northernmost latitude in the world where you have a chance of spotting a wild chimpanzee. There is an endangered population of Derby Elands (largest antelopes in the world), hippopotamus, elephants, buffalo, and a very large amount of birdlife.

And guess what? There is even a proper lodge now! Pair a trip to Niokolo Koba with a visit to Tambacounda, Kedougou and points further south if you are feeling adventurous.

River Gambia National Park, the Gambia

Situated within the River Gambia National Park there is the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project. There is a semi-wild and protected population of chimpanzees on three islands in the park. I use the term semi-wild because they are fed, and sick chimps receive medical attention. But this is no petting zoo. You can stay on site at the rehabilitation center and there are guided tours to see and observe the chimps at a healthy distance. Our favorite eco-lodge in the Gambia can help you organize a trip there.

Photo from Footsteps Eco Lodge, the Gambia

Orango National Park in the Bijagos Islands, Guinea-Bissau

We touched on Orango in our write-up of Bubaque, the largest island in the Bijagos archipelago. If you thought Bubaque was wild and and somewhat inaccessible, Orango has practically fallen off the edge of the known universe. The furthest island from the mainland, Orango also has the most unique set of flora and fauna in arguably the whole region.

For one, it is one of the only places in the world where you can see salt water hippos. The hippos spend most of the day lounging in fresh water lagoons, but they often venture to the ocean for a bath. Think of it as a disinfection routine. There are also sea turtles on the island, a population of African Grey Parrots, manatees and even Nile crocodiles.

The entire island is a national park is their only one option for lodging. The whole trip will be a bit on the expensive side, but you are going to an exceptional place. With such a fragile and unique environment, it is a good thing that the island is not overly accessible.

Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, Sierra Leone

If you want to see what an undisturbed rainforest in West Africa looks like, this is the place.

Right in the middle of a whole lot of green. The Tiwai Wildlife Sanctuary is most well known for its rare population of pygmy hippopotamus and endangered Diana monkeys. Beyond the exceptional flora and fauna, the park is simply one of the most unique explorations of the natural world that you can experience while still having some level of support and infrastructure. You can visit their official website for information about booking a visit there.

The Drill Ranch, Nigeria

The Drill Rehabilitation and Breeding Center is one of West Africa’s original primate rehabilitation projects. There are two locations in Nigeria, but the Afi Mountain location is the field site and a much more interesting visit.

That is a Mandrill, one of the most colorful and strange looking primates on the planet. At the Drill Ranch, you can see Mandrills up close. You can also chimpanzees as the Ranch serves as an orphanage of sorts. For information on visiting, see their website. It is best to contact them directly before planning a trip there.

Mole National Park, Ghana

Mole is the largest protected area in Ghana and it is one of the more accessible wildlife parks in West Africa. It’s also one of the only places in the world where you can lounge at the pool while watching elephants at a nearby watering hole.

The park is most notable for its large elephant population (there are over 800) but there is also a serious proliferation of antelope species as well as heaps of cheeky baboons and warthogs. Overlapping habitats between the park and the local villages has fostered an environment where animals often scavenge for food in non-park areas. Respect park guidelines and always use a guide. For more information on visiting, check out their official website at molenationalpark.org.

Wildlife Park Lite

In Senegal, there are two parks that offer a chance to observe wildlife up close. The conditions may not be so “wild.” These are conservation centers that also serve as tourist attractions.

That photo is from the Fathala Wildlife Reserve. This is definitely not an activity you would undertake in an actual game reserve. At Fathala, the lions have been raised with close human contact since birth. It is unnatural, yes. But the lions are not drugged or anything like that. They are well cared for and looked after. In addition, Fathala serves as one of the few conservation centers for the critically endangered Western Giant Eland.

The other reserve that belongs in the “lite” category is Bandia. No lion walk here but a slightly larger population of overall wildlife. Instead of one ornery ostrich, they have several. It also has more of a “savannah” feel to it, with more scrubland and the occasional baobab tree.

Both of these parks are excellent if you are in Senegal (or The Gambia) and you cannot make it to Niokolo Koba or to other parks elsewhere in the region. Bandia is particularly accessible from Dakar, and Fathala is a breeze to get to from the Gambia (it is just a few kilometers over the border in Senegal).

As we approach the end of 2022, most of the world has lost its appetite for pandemic related border closures and travel restrictions. We are supportive of public health measures that save lives, but it is a huge relief to us that we can once again move around West Africa.

So are there still any restrictions on travel in West Africa? Yes. You need to be vaccinated with either one dose of Johnson & Johnson or two doses of the following: Pfizer, Moderna, AstraZeneca, Sinopharm, or Sinovac. In West Africa, this is fully vaccinated.

Normally we would break this down country by country, but for the moment we can speak globally for all of West Africa. At the time of this writing, there are no countries in West Africa that require a PCR test if you are fully vaccinated. There are no booster requirements and it seems vaccinations are still valid even if they are more than one year old.

Many countries, including the United States, do not have QR codes on their vaccination certificates. As far as we know, no countries in West Africa are requiring that vaccination certificates have a QR code.

If you are not vaccinated, then you will have to have a negative PCR test. Typically, the test must be completed no more than 72 hours in advance of the start of the itinerary. Always double check with your airline on these things.

Of course, we think you should get vaccinated. If you are thinking about marking your territory in our comments section with your opinions on masking, lockdowns and/or vaccinations, let me save you the trouble. We believe traveling is a privilege. We should not be a burden on any place that we are fortunate enough to visit.

In West Africa, fragile health care systems are already taxed and under-resourced. Getting vaccinated helps to prevent infection, transmission, and to mitigate symptoms if infection does occur. No, it is not a silver bullet. But that does not mean that it’s not an important tool.

At the end of the day, we believe in science and we believe in the basic principles of living together in a society with other humans. Imagine that.

Senegal’s Petite-Côte (little coast) runs from just south of Dakar down to the Sine-Saloum. While most people gravitate to the beachside town of Saly, if you want something a bit more laid back the small town of Toubab Dialaw is your spot.

It is a short drive from the airport and it has this immaculate beach that is often deserted, a welcome change of pace if you have spent any time on the beach in Saly.

Toubab Dialaw is not as developed as Saly and Sonome, but there are still places to eat and drink and there are a few good options for lodging. We like to stay at Sobo Bade, which is as much an art gallery as it is a hotel. Founded by the Haitian artist Gérard Chenet, the hotel features his sculptures and mixed media installations. Every room is unique and some have a panoramic view of the beach framed by large rock formations.

Sobo Bada has a restaurant on site, but if you are looking to venture out, just take the stairs down to the beach and head over to Le K’méléon, where you can feast on local specialties like thiof braisé (a whole barbecued fish) and enjoy a cocktail or a cold Gazelle beer. There are other little food shacks if you make your way further up the beach. Most feature local food and are fairly inexpensive (think 3-4000 CFA for a main dish).

The main draw in Toubab Dialaw is the untouched beach that is remarkably clean despite the proximity to Dakar. It’s great for a swim or a long walk. And most importantly, you won’t find the hordes of old French tourists and expats that you come across further south. If you start to get restless there are also several informal spots on the beach where you can partake in drumming and dance classes.

If you are serious about dance, the École des Sables, founded by the Senegalese choreographer Germaine Acogny, is an internationally renowned arts center. You may also be able to catch performances there depending on their schedule.

Getting There and Away

Toubab Dialaw is roughly 60 kilometers south of Dakar and 20-some kilometers north of Saly. It is a very short drive to Senegal’s Blaise Diagne International Airport.

A taxi from the airport should be between 5 and 10,000 CFA depending on your negotiating skills. If you are coming from Dakar, it will likely be at least 20,000 CFA. There are shared taxis that come through Toubab Dialaw, but it is not a typical stop for minibuses or regular buses. While Saly has a busy carrefour situated on the Mbour highway, Toubab Dialaw is a bit out of the way.

We think the extra effort is worth it. There are not many places in Senegal like it. If you are interested in a clean beach with no hassle that also has access to traditional and contemporary art, this is your spot.

Do you have a chilled out spot on the Petite-Côte that you would like to tell us about? Let us know in the comments below.

You can cover a surprising amount of ground in The Gambia, a tiny sliver of a country that looks like a fly-by on the map. In our previous post we talked about exploring the Gambian river. In this post, we will head down the coast to one of our favorite places in the whole region: Footsteps Eco Lodge.

Conveniently located about an hour’s drive from Banjul, and even less from the airport or from the Senegalese/Casamance border, Footsteps is on the northern end of the village of Gunjur. Set back from the road, the lodge integrates seamlessly with a patch of jungle that is just a few kilometers from the beach.

Most Ecolodges exist in name-only. Footsteps lives up to the title. All electricity on the premises comes from solar power, the toilets are compositing, and the structures are built with local materials. Free filtered water is provided to all guests to discourage the use of disposable plastic bottles. Meals feature local ingredients and indeed some of the ingredients are actually grown on the premises. The entire lodge is a haven for an incredible variety of birdlife and it is easy to understand why – David and his team have done everything they can to preserve the numerous trees and plant life on the property.

Speaking of David and his team, they are perhaps the most welcoming bunch in all of West Africa. There is a clear family culture when it comes to the staff, and it is unsurprising that some of the team members have been there for over two decades. From the rooms to the food, the team looks after you every step of the way.

Photo from https://footstepsinthegambia.com/

While Footsteps is a great place to unwind and relax, either in the comfortable rooms, on the sun deck or in the artfully done eco pool, there are also plenty of activities to keep you busy. The morning nature walk with Lamin is excellent. The walk is peaceful and meditative as well as a great chance to spot wildlife, birds in particular. Lamin is a professional and will help you point your binoculars – provided by him – in the right direction. Fishing, cooking class, and live music are some of the other activities you can enjoy. We should mention that there is also a ping pong table, but be forewarned, David is quite the hustler when it comes to this game.

Finally, it must be said that the rooms are well-appointed and in no way do they lack in comfort, something that is often the case in ecolodges. The food on offer is a mix of local and European dishes and it is delightful. We are a big fan of the evening barbecue, which is often accompanied by live kora music performed by a local musician.

We have stayed at Footsteps several times on Scoot West Africa trips and it has now become a permanent part of our itineraries through the Gambia. If you are heading to the Gambia or even the northern part of Casamance, don’t miss an opportunity to visit!

Photo from Fair Play, Gambia

We are writing this right in the middle of the coronavirus pandemic. No one is doing much traveling in West Africa, let alone the rest of the world. That said, Gambia’s tourism sector had already been ravaged by the bankruptcy of Thomas Cook.

Once we are all able to travel again, this is one country that deserves a visit. We say that not only because their tourism sector has been decimated. It is a tiny country with a little bit of everything, from beaches to jungle and river trips, to never-ending culture and history. It is also an English speaking country, and it is incredibly affordable.

Most people who come to the Gambia tend to stay on the coast where the beaches are admittedly deserving of all the hype they receive. However, one of the best ways to explore the country is by taking a trip on the Gambia River. The mouth of the river, where the Gambia meets the Atlantic Ocean, is quite wide, but as you go further inland, the river narrows and the population slims down as well. Small villages and plenty of nature will be the main features of your trip.

Not far from the mouth of the river is one of the more touristic sites in the Gambia. The famous “Roots” tour based on the book by Alex Haley. The legacy of former slave Kunta Kinteh is traced back to the villages of Juffureh and Albreda. While the historical accuracy has not been nailed down, the villages are certainly worth a visit as you make your way inland. Our friend Simon Fenton, who formerly ran the Little Baobab in Abene (he tragically died in a car accident in 2017), wrote about his experience in the “Roots” villages here.

For a customized and more comprehensive tour of the Gambia river, we highly recommend Fair Play, Gambia. Their boat, the Fula Princess, is fully equipped for lodging, dining and even activities like kayaking. They have a few set itineraries, but you can also contact them directly for a customized trip. Here is a bit of video to give you an idea:

Having a sundowner on the top deck of the boat while enjoying some excellent local cuisine, visiting villages, exploring mangroves and the diverse ecology of the Gambia River.

You can also take the Fula Princess all the way down to the River Gambia National Park. This is one of the few places (and one of the only in West Africa) in the world where you can see an unmolested population of chimpanzees. While land access to the Baboon islands is forbidden (where the chimpanzees live), it is possible to observe the chimpanzees whilst on a boat on the river. There is a considerable amount of additional wildlife in the park, including baboons, green and colobus monkeys, warthogs, bushbucks and even manatees.

It is unclear how far down the Gambia River you can go on a boat. We have never tried to reach the finish line ourselves. The river technically goes beyond the Gambia border and goes all the way down to Kedougou in Senegal, which is not far from the borders of both Guinea and Mali. We would love to hear from anyone who has tried to do such a trip. You would likely need a smaller watercraft for this. If anyone has any info or personal experience, please let us know in the comments.

You would think that with the large distances between most capital cities in West Africa, intra-regional air travel would be thriving. In fact, it is the opposite. There are not many carriers, operational costs are high, and most people living in the region can’t afford the tickets. Whereas you may be able to find a long distance bus ticket for $45-50 (one-way), a flight between the same two cities might be five times that or more.

For convenience, efficiency and comfort, you obviously can’t beat flying. So if you are willing to pony up some extra cash, there are some options. As we mentioned in our guide to getting cheap flights to West Africa, some of them are better than others.

Asky is a subsidiary of Ethiopian Airlines. Their hub is in Lomé, Togo. They fly to every major capital city in West Africa. They are often called the “taxi of West Africa.” A mini-bus is probably more accurate. Direct flights are rare and most itineraries involve picking up and dropping off passengers several times depending on your final destination. That said, they offer the most flexibility and their prices are usually the cheapest.

Carriers based outside of the region

Some of these carriers offer cheaper regional flights than the airlines that are actually based here. Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways both run flights between certain West African capital cities on their way to and from their hubs in Addis Ababa and Nairobi respectively. For example, you may be able to find a cheaper flight from Abidjan to Dakar with Kenya Airways (on a flight that started in Nairobi and makes a stop in Abidjan) than you can with Air Côte d’Ivoire.

Royal Air Maroc is another international carrier that sometimes has cheaper tickets between regional capitals than the regionally-based airlines. Unfortunately, this often means flying first to Casablanca and then back to West Africa.

National Airlines in West Africa

Air Burkina
Air Côte d’Ivoire
Arik Air (Nigerian)
Cabo Verde Airlines – As of July 2019, lots of great promotional deals to Dakar from Sal, Lisbon, Paris, Milan and Rome.
Dana Air (Nigerian)
Mauritanian Airlines
Senegal Airlines
Transair (Senegal)

In some cases, it may be cheaper to book in a local travel agency or in the office of the airline itself rather than on the internet. It is also worth mentioning that sometimes the booking agents on these airline websites reject bookings or reject credit cards without thinking twice. There is a lot of work to be done – that’s for sure – but you can sometimes find a decent deal between cities. The Senegal Airlines and Transair flights between Dakar and Ziguinchor, for example, are quite affordable.

The airport of Ziguinchor

Of these national carriers, Air Côte d’Ivoire has the greatest number of destinations with Senegal Airlines not far behind.

Safety

African airlines are often maligned for having poor aircraft and safety records. However, most of the airlines operating in the region have relatively new aircraft and not many reported incidents. Dana Air is one exception. They had a crash as recently as 2012 in which all passengers perished.

Mauritania Airlines was previously on the EU ban list, but the ban has been lifted since 2012.

The most recent incident in the region happened with an Air Algerie flight in 2017 in which dangerous rainy season storm conditions caused the plane to crash at high speeds, killing everyone aboard. It is also worth mentioning that while it was an Air Algerie plane it was a Spanish crew running the flight and a Spanish company that had leased the airline itself.

Other notable accidents that have happened in the recent past occurred with airlines that are no longer in operation.

I just recently watched The Endless Summer for the first time. Any images from that immediate postcolonial period in West Africa are to be treasured, and this film offers a unique angle with a sport that many West Africans on the coast were likely seeing for the first time.

Enterprising surfers have long been combing the West African coast for reliable waves. They have found plenty, and many of them are now well documented. As this article from the Guardian notes, Senegal just had their first pro surf competition, some fifty years after The Endless Summer premiered. In this article, we will point you in the direction of some great resources so that you can organize the surf trip you want – whether you have been surfing for years or you want to try it for the first time.

Start in Senegal

One of the most accessible countries in the region, Senegal also happens to have the most developed surf “infrastructure.” There are surf camps, schools, and plenty of waves. Most of the most well known spots are right in the capital. The Almadies peninsula juts out into the Atlantic and helps form a natural break in nearly every direction. Regardless of which way the wind is blowing, you will find something every day.

Novice surfer? Complete beginner?

A great place to start would be Ecole Surf Attitude. They are partnered with Quicksilver and have a great team capable of teaching any level and any age – yes, there are even plenty of children learning how to surf with them. Here is a great testimonial from a Dakar resident who has used the school for her whole family.

Experienced and ready for a proper surf holiday?

The Ngor Island Surf Camp offers packages that include lodging, meals, guiding, and transport to and from surf spots, even if a boat is needed. From their website:

Every day one of our local surf guides will take you to the best of 21 spots depending on your level. Located on the most Western point of Africa the nearby mainland peninsular attracts swell from the North, West and South offering potentially Africa’s largest and most consistent swell window.

Here is a video they produced:

If you get bored of the waves off Ngor, check out these 16 other spots charted by magicseaweed.com on the Almadies Peninsula alone.

Another great resource for Senegal and beyond is Go Surf Africa. While some of the information is a bit thin, they have a great overall guide that covers the whole coast of West Africa. In their Senegal guide, they also recommend the Yoff based Malika Surf Camp which also has their own surf school.

Where else in West Africa is there a strong surf community?

After Senegal, Ghana has perhaps the strongest community and the most surf schools and camps. From Côte d’Ivoire over to Benin, there is a strong swell that comes from the south. The waves vary once they hit the coast, and your luck may be firmly tied to the winds and the season.

In Ghana, the area around Busua is perhaps the most well known. In addition to Mr. Bright’s Surf School, you have places like the Busua Inn, which along with their sister location Ezile Bay, can take you to the best breaks east and west of the famous Cape Three Points. This is the best area in Ghana for surfing in terms of both waves, and community and accommodation. Not to mention the fact that the beaches are stunning and mostly quiet.

Magic Seaweed has a good dynamic map of all the breaks along this stretch of coast, including those in Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Togo and Benin.

Want a true surfing adventure?

Sierra Leone and Liberia have some of West Africa’s most promising surfing destinations. Both countries are facing serious development challenges, but they are far removed from the civil wars that seem to perpetually overshadow all of the positive steps both countries have taken in order to attract visitors.

There is far less infrastructure in both countries when compared to Senegal and Ghana, but there is at least one surf school/camp in each: the Bureh Beach Surf Club in Sierra Leone and the Kwepunha Retreat in Liberia. And there are plenty of adventurous surfers that have found reliable breaks in rarely visited parts of both countries.

For a basic overview for both Sierra Leone and Liberia, we would recommend Go Surf Africa and WannaSurf.com. Magic Seaweed doesn’t have quite as much info on these countries compared to the detailed knowledge base they have for Senegal, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Togo and Benin.

Have some West African surfing tips or experiences you want to share? Drop them in the comments below.

Photo credit at the top: https://www.flickr.com/photos/attawayjl/5294649856/in/photolist-94SsWu

Guinea, often called Guinea-Conakry to distinguish it from its neighbor to the west, is not known for its infrastructure. Despite a proliferation of road projects manned by Chinese companies, the transport network remains one of the weakest in the region. This does not mean that you should avoid Guinea. Depending on your travel outlook, you may enjoy the additional adventure.

Photo of a washed out bridge during the rainy season taken from the West Africa Travellers facebook group

In 2017, we traversed Guinea length-wise on small 110 cc scooters. The photo at the top of this post came from that trip. In addition to fording rivers, we spent a good amount of time navigating potholes and tank traps, rock staircases and trenches of sand. For more on that trip you can read the trip recap part 1 and part 2.

Need I say more?

Ok, that should do it.

Of course, you can always go into a travel experience blind, taking a chance and enjoying the many random challenges. We’ve done that plenty of times ourselves. But for those that want a bit of guidance, here are a few tips for navigating the Guinean road network.

Tips for Getting Around Guinea

Whether you are taking public transport or your own vehicle, you should first check out our article on road safety. All of those bullet points in that article apply here.

One point I would emphasize is that local knowledge trumps anything you will find on Google maps. Ask truck and sept-place (bush taxis) drivers about the best roads. These guys are constantly on the road and they know the best routes as well as travel times and possible obstacles. On our particular trip, a truck driver wisely steered us away from what looked like a shortcut on Google maps. We would probably still be on that bombed out track if it wasn’t for his advice.

Give yourself plenty of time to arrive at your location. Don’t count on logging especially long distances. We advise against driving at night in general in West Africa, and this is especially important on some of the more treacherous roads of Guinea, which are of course unfenced and unlit.

Use Patrick Madelaine’s map. We referenced Patrick in our writeup on the spectacular Fouta Djallon. He is a great resource for all things Guinea, and he has put together this excellent crowd-sourced map that evaluates the state of the roads throughout the country. It is updated with information from travelers themselves and is thus far more useful than something you will find in your typical guidebook.

Click here to access the full version of the map. Of course, if you drive on any of these roads, get in touch with Patrick and let him know the current conditions.

Lastly, if you are traveling in your own vehicle, it is a good idea to have some mechanical knowledge and spare parts. In West Africa, you will always come across friendly villagers and fellow drivers that will help you out. However, in Guinea, particularly in places like the Fouta Djallon, you will find that the villages do not have much in the way of parts and broken down vehicles can quickly turn into multi-day projects. Come equipped and you can avoid this.

Have you traveled on the roads in Guinea? Feel free to add your two cents in the comments below.

We enjoy traveling throughout West Africa, but we are often stuck in the orbit of Senegal’s southern province. The Casamance is naturally beautiful, culturally fascinating and incredibly easy to travel given the limited tourist infrastructure. Unfortunately, a lot of people skip the region because there is this inconvenient thing called the Gambia that separates the Casamance from the rest of Senegal.

Of course, you can have an excellent time in the Gambia on your way down south, but if you don’t have the time or the desire to visit the anglophone country sandwiched in the middle of Senegal, you might consider skipping the Casamance altogether. Don’t. There are plenty of ways to get to the Casamance by either blasting through the Gambia or going around it entirely.

Getting to the Casamance from Dakar

By Plane

There are 4 ways to get to the Casamance from Dakar. The quickest is via plane. There are currently two companies flying between Dakar and Ziguinchor: TransAir and Air Senegal. A one-way ticket is a bit less than $100. At the time of this writing, Air Senegal is running promotional rates of around $85 for a one-way ticket. We have flown with both Air Senegal and TransAir and have not had any issues outside of the occasional delay. There are usually at least two flights a day from each company. We arrange our tickets through Ramata at Casamance Voyages, who can be reached at +221 77 577 01 76.

By Boat

We have written a detailed article about the overnight ferry service that runs between Dakar and Ziguinchor. Check it out here. We highly recommend this option, especially if you are not prone to seasickness. It is cheaper than flying (even if you opt for a private cabin, which we would recommend) and it is an experience in itself.

By Road

With the completion of the bridge at Farafenni, traveling to the Casamance from Dakar by road has never been easier. Instead of relying on inconsistent ferry service at Bara or Farafenni, you can cross the Gambia river on a brand new bridge (inaugurated in January 2019). Give yourself a full day for the drive, whether you are taking public transport or a private vehicle. Immigration at Farafenni is as streamlined as possible for a West Africa border crossing. Whereas it is often difficult to get a transit visa at the Karang crossing, immigration officials in Farafenni regularly give it out. The UK and most EU countries don’t even need a visa.

The easiest way to travel between Dakar and Ziguinchor via public transport is through the Dem Dikk bus service, which costs 9000 cfa. Otherwise, you are looking at a combination of mini-cars and bush taxis, which will be less comfortable and far more tiring.

By Road (the Long Way)

If you really don’t want to go into the Gambia, you could drive to Tambacounda and then from there head south to Ziguinchor. Give yourself two days to do this. There are public transport options that go to Tambacounda from Dakar, including the Dem Dikk bus and plenty of Malian bus companies that travel in that direction on their way to Bamako. From Tambacounda, you can then get a bush taxi or a mini-car to Ziguinchor.

Getting to the Casamance from Mali 

Traveling by road to the Casamance from Mali is straightfoward. You just need to get a bus ticket (or drive yourself) to Tambacounda. Once again, Tambacounda is the junction where you will have to change transport to go in the direction of Ziguinchor. In order to get to Tambacounda, we highly recommend using a bus company that takes the Kenieba road rather than passing through Kayes. You can read all about that here.

Getting to the Casamance from Guinea-Bissau 

Considering the Guinea-Bissau border is only 20 km from Ziguinchor, you would think there would be more bus companies running between the two places. There are plenty of bush taxis and mini-cars, though. The cost is around 4000 cfa on public transport, and the ride will take four hours or more depending on how quickly you get through the border. The tarmac is perfect for the 20 km between Ziguinchor and the border. The Guinea-Bissau side is a different story. There are plenty of potholes and tank traps and several stretches of floodplains where the road has been washed out during previous rainy seasons.

Getting to the Casamance from the Gambia

The most well traveled route is of course the Trans-Gambian highway, which passes through Farafenni. However, there are plenty of other places to cross including the smuggler’s route (although, we can only advise this route if you just want to dip into Abene and the nearby area and then return to Gambia) and a small chilled out crossing that leads into the Senegalese village of Seleti. Needless to say, wherever you are in the Gambia, it won’t take you long to get to the Casamance.

Twenty-some kilometers inland from the Atlantic Ocean, there is a small town in Guinea-Bissau with a population of roughly 10,000 people. The town is called Cacheu, and it was one of the first colonial settlements in sub-saharan Africa. It served as a port for the Portuguese. The principal export was human beings, destined for the New World or for Cape Verde, where the Portuguese had set up a colony on a previously uninhabited archipelago.

Nowadays it is a sleepy town with no formal accommodation options and not much going on. But it is an easy day trip from Bissau, and it can also be used as a transit point to São Domingos via the mangroves. The nearby national park can also be explored with a guide (see below for guide contact info). The main attraction here is historical, with both the slavery museum and the restored fort on the water.

Getting to Cacheu

Getting to Cacheu by road is easy enough. You simply need to take the turnoff from Bula towards Canchungo. The road is in great shape and the scenery is excellent. You will see plenty of cashew and fromagier trees en route.

Once you get to Cacheu, the main road leads straight to the port. It dead ends at the water itself, and you will see a small pier and most likely a few boats around. We arrived in the afternoon when most of the town was taking a siesta, but there always seems to be a bit of activity near the water.

The fort is just west of the port area along the riverside road. The slavery museum is just before the fort on the left. You may have to ask around to find the caretaker, but people are more than willing to help you out.

The interior of the fort is off limits unless you ask for permission from the caretaker at the slavery museum. From there, you can get a guided tour. The fort, built in the 16th century, is quite small, but it is interesting for its bizarre statues, some of which are decapitated or split in two at the torso.

The fort and museum are important sites of remembrance for the trans-Atlantic slave trade, and several events and memorials have been held in Cacheu to reflect on the grim history of Portugal’s first settlement in sub-Saharan Africa. The museum in particular gives you a sense of the multi-generational destruction to the social and cultural fabric of so many areas of West Africa.

After visiting the slavery museum and the fort, you can either return by road back to Bula, and then continue south towards Bissau or north towards São Domingos, or you can try your hand at a boat trip through the mangroves. The Cacheu River Mangroves Natural Park is certainly worth visiting if you have the chance.

You can organize a local canoe, or you can hire the official park boat at a negotiable rate. We paid 180,000 CFA for 6 passengers and 6 motorbikes from Cacheu all the way to São Domingos, a journey that took about 2 hours. We saw plenty of birdlife and even a caiman lounging on the bank of the river. If you have a smaller group (meaning less weight), you will surely be able to negotiate a lower price. In our case, we had to put the motorbikes on as we were on a tour with Scoot West Africa. The other passengers on the boat included the driver as well as a guide for the park.

To organize such a boat trip, you can contact the park directly at +245 955 944 744 or just ask around town for the park headquarters and someone can direct you.

Whether you are passing through Cacheu or taking a day trip from Bissau, it is a town that is worth exploring, both for its history and its relaxed atmosphere.