This post is sponsored by Digz Gardening but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

How To Grow Seedlings

First of all, congrats on having gone to all the effort of sowing seeds indoors. It can be a messy job. Whether you used egg cartons, plastic seed cells, or some other seed-starting containers, seed germination is the funnest part of the process. I love anticipating the seeds popping up out of the dirt and getting so excited when they finally do make an appearance. There's a good portion of the winter months when my dining table is covered in seed packets, seed trays, and sprinkled with soil. One day I will be lucky enough to get a greenhouse. But until then, my kitchen will have to do. If you haven't started sowing seed yet, I have another post all about how to get started. 

Thinning Your Seedlings

Some seeds are so tiny they are practically dust. It can be very hard to only get a few seeds in each cell or container. If you planted multiple seeds and they all germinated, you will need to thin the seedlings down to 1-2 per cell. This use to be so hard for me. I felt like I was killing all these potential plants. So I get the feeling of wanting to save them all. But I promise if you thin them, the ones that you keep, will thrive without the competition for water and nutrients. You will be surprised at how fast they grow after you thin them. 

I use either small pointy scissors or small snips like these from Digz Gardening. Make sure they are sharp. Be gentle as you handle the seedlings and go slowly so you don't cut more than you want. I pick the two largest/strongest looking seedlings to keep and cut away the rest. I do not pull the seedling out because you run the risk of disturbing the roots of the seedling you want to keep.

In the past I have pulled apart the seedlings and tried to transplant the thinned ones into new cells. Sometimes they survive but their growth is stunted. They never seem to take off like the ones I thin with snips. 

Immediately after thinning it will go from looking full, to looking bare and you may panic thinking "What have I done!" Give it a few days and I guarantee you will see growth. It is all part of the process.  

Give Your Seedling Plenty of Light

One of the biggest questions I get is "What is wrong with my seedlings? They are so tall and are falling over." Leggy seedlings are a common mistake that happens when you are starting out growing seeds indoors. It is a result of the young seedlings not having enough light. Not only do these young plants need plenty of light, the light source needs to be close to the seedlings. That is why I really believe if you are going to be starting seeds indoors that you should get grow lights. They are not expensive and will make such a difference. 

If you don't have a grow light, the next best thing is to place them in direct sunlight in a south facing window. But given that seeds are started in the winter and early spring when the sun is not at its peak, even a south-facing window can still produce leggy seedlings. I hang the grow lights within 2-3 inches of the seedlings. As they grow taller, I can move the lights higher. I use S hooks and chain to adjust the height but you can use string or zip ties as well to adjust the artificial light. 

Water & Fertilizer

The reason I like using plastic cell seedling trays trays, aside from the fate that they are reusable, is that it is the easiest way to bottom water. Water your seedling from the bottom so you don't disrupt the seeds while they are trying to germinate. Watering from the top can also wash away some of the soil. It is gentler for the baby plant to absorb water from the the bottom. Avoid adding too much water. The soil needs to be moist but not soggy. If you are going to water from the top instead of bottom watering, use a spray bottle to reduce the chance of disturbing the seeds or tiny seedling.

If your seed starting soil mix doesn't contain and fertilizer (most don't) then you will need to start fertilizing them when they are 3-4 inches tall and have at least one set of true leaves. Most seed starting mixes and growing medium are primarily peat moss or coco coir which are great for retaining moisture but don't give the new plant many nutrients. Choose a liquid fertilizer that is either specifically labeled for seedlings or one that is balanced (meaning the numbers are all the same). 

Strengthen & Protect Your Plants

Your little plants need good air flow. Run a fan directed at your seedlings. I know this sounds weird, but it is one of the best things you can do for your seedlings. The fan blowing on them recreates outside conditions and will help strengthen them. When wind blows on the stems, it stimulates a hormone call auxin which strengthens the cells in the stems. Wind also prevents fungus and mold from growing on the soil surface which causes damping off (a fungal disease where the base of the plant rots and dies). So blast that fan for healthy seedlings!

If you don't have a fan or that seem like too much of a hassle, brush your hands over the seedlings daily to stimulate that hormone. 

Transplanting Into Larger Containers

I really try to avoid up potting my seedlings since a larger pot means they will take up more space. Since I don't have a greenhouse, space is at a premium in my basement where my shelves are set up. But there are some plants that grow big quickly (like tomatoes) that will need to be potted up into larger pots. I use 4" pots and I place them in large 19x11 aluminum trays. This way it makes moving them around easier and I can still bottom water. 

 Most of my seedlings stay in their trays but depending on the type of plant, I will also pot up the ones that are getting root bound like these dahlias. If you see a lot of roots coming out the bottom or the plant itself is getting really big, you may need to choose a larger container. I like to use a potting mix with lots of organic material in it so I don't have to fertilize it with the liquid fertilizer anymore. 

Side Note: Not all 4 inch pots have the same dimensions. The pots I bought this year are shorter and wider so less fit into my aluminum trays. Just something to think about if space is an issue.

Harden Off Your Seedlings Before Planting Outside

This is where some people misstep and have plants die. If you skip this step, you risk all your hard work being undone. Your plants have been in a very controlled environment their whole lives where the air temperature has stayed the same. If you were to plant them directly outside, even if all chance of frost has past, they may go into shock and either struggle, or die completely. Help them gradually get used to their new environment by taking them outside for a little bit each day.

Every day you can increase the amount of time they are out until they can handle being outside all day. Start out by putting them in the shade and work up to them being in the sun. If they are in the sun, keep an eye on the moisture levels since the little cells or containers can dry out quickly. This is the most nerve wracking part for me. I set alarms on my phone and I usually put them where I can easily see them so I don;t forget they are out there. 

Planting

Aaaaah! You finally made it to the most satisfying part of this whole process. Planting day. Make sure all chance of a last frost has passed for you particular zone. In my Zone 6b, I have to wait until mid May. Some of my seeds I started in January. So it is definitely a reason to do a little happy dance when I can finally get things in the ground. And when you see them thrive and start to produce, you know all your work was well worth it. Not to mention all the money you have saved by starting seeds indoors. 

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If you ever have any questions about this process, please don't hesitate to comment or even email me. I am happy to help you on your gardening journey. 

This post is sponsored by Digz Gardening but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

Why You Should Prune Your Indoor Houseplants

Pruning isn't just for when your plant has outgrown its space and to keep it a more manageable size. Although sometimes I forget to prune them until I see they are touching the floor! Pruning your houseplants helps the overall health of the plant too. Regular pruning should be a part of your plant care routine. Just like with outdoor plants, when you prune house plants, it signals the plant to put on new healthy growth. If you don't ever trim up your plant, it will eventually get leggy. 

You don't need to prune a lot of length off. If you want to maintain the long trailing length, then just cut a little off the ends. Think of it like a haircut. You don't have to get the bob. You can just get a trim to keep it healthy.

Take my cebu blue pothos as an example. I have had it for a couple of years but have never pruned it. It was a tiny plant when I bought it but now is trailing down a couple of feet. When it is hanging from the ceiling it looks okay, but a closer look reveals that it is bald on the top. It would look much better (and much healthier) if it had fuller growth at the top. I will share how to fix this super common problem in just a bit. First let's talk about propagation. 

What Is Propagation?

You can propagate a new plant from the parent plant (original plant) by either taking a cutting, or by dividing the roots and rhizomes. For today's post we will focus on taking cuttings, but in my post about snake plants, I show how to divide the other way.

You can use pruners or snips. Either way, make sure they are sharp. You want to make nice, clean cuts. Sanitize before use and if you are cutting multiple plants, make sure to clean the snips in between each plant so you don't spread any possible fungus or diseases. 

             I love these snips from Digz!  They are comfortable to hold and easy to lock and unlock. 

Ways To Propagate From Cuttings

You can propagate in water, and in soil (or your growing medium of choice). I prefer to use water since I think it is the easiest way and I get the best results. 

Water

If your cutting is small, simply add the end of it to the water. If you remove a long section of a vine, you will need to cut it into smaller pieces. The sections you cut should have 2-3 leaves, although 1 leaf will also work. Make sure that each section has at least one node since those are what will become roots. 

You can use a drinking glass, mason jar or any other glass container you have on hand. If you do a lot of propagating like I do, you can even make pretty propagation stations that blend in with your decor. Either way, you will leave the cuttings in the water until they have grown roots. You may need to change out the water every couple of weeks if you notice it is getting murky. I just use regular tap water. You don't need to use filter water or anything special. 

I like to wait until there are not only primary roots but secondary roots before I pot them up. Primary roots are the first, single strand roots to develop. When new roots start to branch off from the primary roots, then it is ready. I will say that I have potted up cuttings with smaller roots and they did okay. I just think it's best to wait until they get a bit more mature. If your cuttings are in the water a long time, you can add a few drops of liquid fertilizer so the leaves color doesn't start to fade.

The time it takes for your cutting to grow roots depends on what kind of plant it is. Pothos, philodendron, pilea, and calatheas all root fairly quickly for me and are the easiest plants. But plants in the ficus family (like fiddle leaf fig and rubber trees), snake plant, and zz plant take a long time. I have a whole post about propagating fiddle leaf figs you can read HERE. That is why I like to have a cute propagation station so it can look good while I wait. It just becomes part of the decor.

Soil

To propagate a cutting in soil, there are a few different ways you can go about it.  You can simply add the healthy cuttings to some moist soil in a pot. This is a bit tricky because if the soil drys out too much it won't root but if the soil is too wet the cutting will rot. It can be done, but it isn't the most reliable way in my experience. Add rooting hormone powder to the cut tips can increase your chances. And if you have a greenhouse, this method works even better. 

Speaking of greenhouses, the next two ways are kind of like little mini greenhouses, since most of us are not lucky enough to have a full on greenhouse. I sometimes stick plant cuttings in my terrariums. It is a controlled, humid environment that works really well. Sometimes I leave the cuttings in there indefinitely and sometimes I pull them out and pot them up after they have rooted. 

Another way to create a humid environment is to fill a clear tote with the growing medium of your choice (soil, peat moss, coco coir, sand, ect). Add your cuttings to the soil mixture and then place the lid on it. Some people like to poke holes in the lip for some ventilation. Just make sure to put it in a place where you won't forget about it. 

With both of these methods, it is important to make sure the soil isn't too wet or the cutting will rot. I like to add enough water that I can squeeze a handful and it makes a loose ball without any water dripping out while I squeeze. 

Fixing Bald And Leggy Plants

Remember my poor cebu blue with the bald mullet? Now that we have a basic understanding of propagating, let's talk about how to fix this guy and make it a bushy plant instead of leggy. 

First I untangled the vines. Then I trimmed off about ½ of the length of the vines. Maybe even closer to ⅔ of them. Like I stated above, you don't need to take that much length off if you don't want to. You can just trim the ends to maintain the length you want. I never cut them all the same length. I stagger my cuts so it still looks natural. There was one vine that didn't have any leaves on the top half so I removed the whole vine. 

Cutting the growth tips off will trigger the plant to add new growth both from the base and on the vines. So even if you didn't propagate what you cut off, the plant would still get better looking and healthier. BUT, we aren't done. 

Everything I trimmed off got cut into smaller sections. Once they are rooted, I will add them back in the pot with the original parent plant to help fill in the top. This new cuttings will fill in and start to trail over and the result is a bushier plant! 

​Create Whole New Plants!

If all your plants are lush and full and you don't need to add cuttings back in, then you can pot up the cutting to create new plants. And who doesn't love FREE plants?

Add a little soil to the bottom of a pot with a drainage holes, and then gather the cuttings all together in one had and add soil with the other hand. Dry potting soil is easier to use because it falls down in between the roots better than moist, clumpy soil.

After the pot is filled with dirt, I water it really well. When you pot up new cuttings it is important to keep them damp until they get established. So water a little bit more frequently than you would otherwise. I like to keep newly potted cutting near my kitchen sink since it has great bright indirect light and so I can keep an eye on them. 

I move the healthy plant to a new spot when I notice new leaves starting to grow on the plant or when I tug on the plant and it seems firm in the soil. If it is loose when you tug, it hasn't grown a strong root system yet.  

I hope this has inspired you to grab your snips and prune your plants! If you have never pruned them, now is the best time to start! Because no one likes a leggy plant. Your plants will thank you by growing healthier and fuller! And you can get even more houseplants (or share with friends) when you propagate the cuttings. 

​

I gathered vines from my backyard. I have to trim them back every year anyway, so it was nice to put them to good use instead of throwing them away. If you don't have vines growing in your yard, you can use grape vines, or thin tree branches. You could also ask a neighbor for some.

I grabbed some wire I already had to create the frame for the trellis. You are going to want a thicker gauge wire that will hold its shape well. A wire hanger would work as well. Since it was almost Valentines Day, I shaped mine into a heart shape. But any shape will work.

Twist the ends and create a long "tail" at the bottom. This is what you will stick in the dirt to hold up the trellis.

Since my wire was silver, I chose to spray paint it brown so it would blend in with the vines better. This is totally optional.

This is the fun part! Start wrapping the vines around the wire. It is easier to wrap the vines shortly after cutting them so they bend more easily. If you are using grape vines or branches that are not easily bent without breaking, you can soak them in warm water before starting to wrap them. This will soften them up.

When you have it the thickness you want, trim the ends to the same length. Then wrap the wire tail up and around the base to keep the vines in place.

What I love about this project is that you can make any shape you want. Hexagon, star, round, etc. It would be fun to make several circles and combine them to make a sphere! You could even make a bunny or egg shape for Easter!

Add your trellis to the houseplant of your choice and gently wrap the vines around the trellis.

This was such a simple project. Sometimes in the middle of winter, it is nice to do a little indoor "gardening". This DIY houseplant trellis makes the perfect addition to my Valentine's Day mantel!

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This post was sponsored by Digz Gardening but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

Many years ago I organized my home office closet to hold all my tools and DIY supplies. It has been a system that has worked really well for us. I wanted to include my gardening tools as well, but was lacking any available space. When you live in a small home, you tend to get creative when it comes to space, and this was no different. 

I had covered all three walls with shelves but what about the door? 

Prep Work

Actually, up until this point we didn't have a door on this closet. The door was badly damaged when we bought the house so it got taken off and stored away. That was part of why the storage in that closet needed to be pretty. But I now really needed a door so I fixed the damage, stripped the paint, and repainted it to match the other doors. 

Indoor Storage For Gardening Gear

I looked online and found the perfect over the door storage on Amazon (affiliate link). It has 5 shelves that are large enough to hold all my gardening accessories. It was very affordable too. There is a 4 shelf option as well as a 6 shelf option depending on your storage capacity needs. 

Since everything else was labeled in my office closet, I of course had to label the shelves. I used my cricut to cut out vinyl. I was hesitant to use iron-on material since I wasn't sure what the hanging organizer was made out of and it felt plasticy. The vinyl looks great, however it is not sticking quite as well as I hoped. I think I will need to cut more vinyl and use the negative space as a stencil to paint the lettering on. I'm going to give it some time and see how it holds up.

You could also just make little tags and attach them. Or you could forgo the labeling since the shelves are partly see through and it is easy to tell what is in them.

But I do love how it looks with all the categories on the fronts of the cubby shelves! I have space for my sun hats and cooling cloths, all my small garden tools, gardening gloves, seed packets and bulbs, as well as my aprons and collapsible tote.

The little side pockets are perfect for things like string and twine, and neem oil. And the best part is that I have easy access to it all year long.

If all my things were small items, I could have used an over the door shoe organizer as well. Either way, taking advantage of the door is a smart way to maximize storage. When you run out of room, use your vertical space!

Outdoor Storage For Gardening Gear

This hanging organizer would also work if you did want to store these things in your garage or storage shed. It is a nice place to keep track of smaller items no matter the location. If your shed looks anything like my garage, you might need to take advantage of more vertical storage for smaller gardening tools! 

If you are going to be storing your hand tools outside, it is a good idea to store them in sand. Fill a container with clean, dry sand and place your hand tools (sharp side down) into the sand. This keep them sharp and dry. You can do this for your larger long-handled tools as well with a larger bucket of sand. 

Sharpening Garden Tools Before Storage

BONUS TIP: Before storing them away for the winter, it is best to sharpen them so they are ready to go in the spring. For hand tools like these pruners and snips from Digz Gardening, you can use sharpener like this inexpensive one from amazon. Simply swipe the sharpener across the blade at an angle a few times until it feels sharp. 

What are your favorite ways to store your garden supplies and small tools? I'd love to hear about it and get even more clever ideas! Anything is possible with a little creativity :) 

Privacy Screen

This has been on my to-do-list for a few years now. I didn't even want to add it to the list this year because of that. But I have started collecting the supplies for it so it seems more real. Like it might just actually happen.

It will be a large project. It hasn't been completed yet because of all three reasons I listed above. I was healing from back surgery for the first half of 2025. After a ton a large, unexpected expenses on top of Shane's company laying him and his department off, we kind of paused any large DIY projects. It is also a time issue. Since it is a 2 person job, I am forced to wait until Shane is home on the weekend to help. And when you have kids, weekends are not always yours to do as you please. So fingers crossed, this giant 100 foot privacy screen can at least get started!

It will run parallel with my 100 foot long flower bed with all my perennial flowers and roses.

More Attic Storage Space

Several years ago we decided to take advantage of our attic space for storage. When you live in a small home, storage is a premium. We added 2x10s (sistered the joists and added blocking) and OSB boards for flooring. We also enlarged the teeny tiny access hole so we could easily lift large totes in and out and added a pull down ladder.

We only did one quarter of the attic at that time. Our goal was to do a quarter of the attic each year, but we got busy with other things. This winter we are going to finally get around to doing another section. The lumber is already purchased!

I'll do a better job documenting the process since I had a lot of questions about it last time.

Down Bathroom

We partially completed the down bathroom (which hasn't been shared) but we need to finish it completely and make it pretty. I have all the supplies except the sink. I can't 100% decided on which direction to go in with that. But a reveal will definitely be happening this year!

Primary Bedroom

The black wall is no more! I have been craving a more cottage-y vibe with antiques, more color and more patterns. I want it to whisper "cozy" and be light and bright. I have a new headboard, new night stands, the paint, and some new accessories and art. I am currently hung up on the bedding. I can't decide and it driving me crazy. And I don't feel like I can chose a rug until the bedding is sorted out. Do you ever get stuck on one thing in a room makeover? And then it all just halts? It's very frustrating!

My Son's Bedroom

In a month, I will be down to one kid left at home out of my 4 sons. That is absolutely crazy to me! My third son will be leaving on a church mission for 2 years (in the Philippines) and so I thought it would be a good time to redo the boys' bedroom since there are currently 3 twin beds in there. The last time we did a makeover in there was back in 2018 (8 years ago!).

My youngest keeps changing his mind on how he wants it to look so until he nails down a layout, we are stuck in the planning phase right now. But that is okay since this winter we will be busy with the projects we already have supplies for.

Laundry/Storage Room

The last time I did anything with my laundry room area was in 2013! It is gray and... functional. It is in the basement and has a concrete floor. I would love to paint it white to brighten it up, add some peel and stick flooring, and organize it a bit more. It will not be a jaw dropping or expensive. But it will freshen it up!

I don't have any of the supplies and it is a low priority project (hence the 12 years of nothing). But I do hope we can get to it this year.

Office Refresh

My office is perfectly fine and is not in need of an overhaul or anything but the last time I painted the cabinets and refreshed it was 6 years ago and I am just wanting to change it up a little bit. My office is the darkest room in my house since it faces north & west. It gets sunny in the late afternoon for a brief period of time and that's it. In the winter time it is extra dark.

Right now the greens and grays are on the cool side and I just want to brighten it up. I will be adding in warmer colors to make it feel more cheerful.

More Content

Overall, I want to be more consistent with sharing. I feel like I pulled back last year. It was my year of healing a slowing down. And I needed it. But I want to be more present here and on social media. I love sharing and teaching and the feeling of community.

I will do a better job of sharing the process and not just the before and after. I will be sharing more gardening content as well. That has always been a passion of mine since I was a small child and I am in a season of life where I have more time than ever before to spend outside.

If you don't already, please consider following me on social media (Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, YouTube). I thrive on that feeling of community and comments here, as well as interaction on those platforms. It is what keeps me going.

I have many more goals, but these are the main ones. I am so excited to share any and all projects that I am able to do this year.

Thank you for sharing this journey with me and for supporting me all these years.

This post is sponsored by Digz Gardening but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own. 

Pressed Flower Ornaments

Before you pull out your craft supplies, you first need to grab your gardening gloves! Go on a little nature walk and collect leaves and flowers from your yard. I collected mine at the end of November before we had our first snow. There were still a surprising amount of flora and fauna alive and green to choose from. I even had some flowers in bloom. If you didn't collect leaves and flowers in time before your weather got cold, you can always collect leaves from your houseplants. Another idea is to buy a bouquet of mixed flowers from a florist or the grocery store and use those. 

The best flowers to press are ones like cosmos where they are more delicate. You'll get the best results with less bulky flowers and leaves. Thicker flowers like zinnias are harder to press and don't look as good when they dry. But if you aren't sure, just try it anyway and see. It's fun to experiment!

You can buy an actual wooden flower press for a good price online but I have always just used heavy books. I have found that for leaves, you can simply place them in between the pages. If you have flowers, it is best to put parchment paper (or wax paper) between the pages first to protect the book pages from pollen or moisture. The time they need to dry out will depend on your home's humidity level and the thickness of the plants you are pressing. It will take at least a week so take that into account for when you want to make the ornaments and plan ahead. You may want to press flowers a couple of weeks in advance, especially if you are hosting a craft night or doing this activity with kids.

Once you have your pressed flowers and leaves ready, it is time to create the ornaments!

Wood Slice Ornaments

Supplies:

• Wood Slices
• Craft Paint Brush
• Mod Podge
• Craft Paint (Optional)
• Drill and Small Drill bit
• Pressed Leaves and Flowers
• String

I used a miter saw and a branch we trimmed off one of our trees this year to cut a bunch of wood slices. If you do not have access to a saw, you can easily find these in craft stores or online. If you are cutting your own, make sure the branch has had time to dry out or you risk the wood slices splitting as they do eventually dry out. 

You can leave them as raw wood or you can paint the center of the wood slice. I chose to leave some plain, paint some white, and paint a few gold. You can paint the entire wood slice but I like to leave the bark unpainted to keep the rustic vibe.

Once the paint has dried completely, you are ready to add the mod podge. I add a thin layer of mod podge directly to the wood slice using a craft paint brush. This allows the surface to be sticky enough that your flowers will stay in place for the next step. Press them into the mod podge. You can wait for the mod podge to completely dry, or you can start to add the top layer after the flowers are placed as long as they don't slide around. Make sure to cover all the flowers and leaves evenly and brush out any air bubbles. 

The mod podge will dry clear. There are different options for the sheen. Mod podge comes in gloss, satin, matte, and ultra matte. I chose satin for this project.

Once it has dried, you can drill a small hole in the top to feed string through. It is best to place a scrap piece of wood under the wood slice so you don't accidentally drill through your work surface.

More Ideas For Pressed Flowers and Leaves

These simple pressed flower ornaments look great on Christmas tree. They could work as home decor all year as well. I just love their natural beauty! And these ornaments would make a beautiful gift for the flower lover in your life. It is a fun way to preserve flowers from a special event like a wedding or anniversary too. The wood slice ornaments could even be gift toppers or gift tags! 

If you are going to hand them somewhere all year, make sure to keep them out of direct sunlight so they don't fade. 

Aside from Christmas ornaments, some other creative ways to use pressed leaves and dried flowers are to make flower bookmarks or birthday cards. I have made resin leaf knobs for my boy's bedroom dresser. I have also made another resin craft with pressed leaves by turning them into magnets for my fridge. And I have framed them for wall art.

What flower crafts have you made with pressed flowers and leaves? I'd love to hear about your flower art! 

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Check out the Digz website to see another pressed leaf ornament I made with pressed flowers and leaves! Which do you like more?

Back Recovery

The last time I gave an update I had recently had my back surgery. The recovery was a long 6 months of having to baby by back. No bending or twisting or lifting heavy objects. Luckily most of that time was during the winter and spring months when I didn't have a lot of heavy outside yard work. It also meant I couldn't complete a lot of projects. And while I can't claim to be 100% back to where I was before, I am thankful that I am on the mend.

Lay Off

Shane was laid off earlier this year. His firm had suffered some setbacks with some large projects so Shane was not surprised when most of his department lost their jobs. It stirred up a lot of anxiety from the recession over a decade ago when he was out of full time work for 3 years. That was a few years after I started this blog and really stretched our family of six.

Fast forward to this fall, Shane was able to find a new job that pays the same and is closer to home. He has only been there a couple of months, but is already enjoying it. He even won the office pumpkin carving contest :)

Family Pictures

While were were visiting the redwoods in California this summer, we took family pictures. Nothing in this world makes me happier than having all my family together. Shortly after we got back from this vacation, I chopped my hair because it had been a long time since I had shorter hair and I was ready for a change!

Leaving The Nest

My oldest and his wife live a couple of hours away so we get to see them quite often. They celebrated their 1 year anniversary this summer! My oldest had an emergency appendectomy this summer and I was able to go up and help out for a couple of days while he recovered and his wife was at work. It makes me feel good when I can still be helpful and do things for my kids even though they are adults.

My second son got home from his mission in early January and worked full time until school started in this fall. I loved having him live at home after having him gone for two years! He is now living 30 minutes away and loving university life.

My third oldest graduated high school this spring and recently submitted his paperwork so he can serve a two year mission for our church. He has been working full time to save money for his mission (and for school when he gets back). It is wild to me that I am about to send off my THIRD child and will only have one kid left at home.

He was called to the Manila, Philippines mission which also includes the island of Palawan. He will leave in early February to go to the MTC where he will learn the Tagalog language. Then he will fly out to Manila in mid April.

My youngest is in high school and recently went on his first date. Time really needs to slow down. It's slipping away to quickly.

Loss

We lost our sweet french bulldog Kevin this fall. We found out he had a brain tumor early this summer and by the end of August he was gone. I knew I would be incredibly sad when he left us but I was surprised at just how deeply I felt it. He was a beloved member of our family for over a decade and was such a part of my daily life. I still find myself looking for him.

Seasons of Life

The older I get, the more I am learning to lean into the seasons instead of fighting them. I HATE winter. Or I should say that I have really struggled in the past with winter. And honestly, when fall comes, I can't even enjoy it fully because I know that the colder months are just around the corner. Part of it is my seasonal affective disorder and part of it is because I am such an outdoor person and I crave the sunshine and playing in the dirt.

But your 40's bring some wisdom. I am focusing on the good parts of winter. I have more time to bake bread and meal prep. I don't really do that in the summer when things are so busy. I have more time to curl up with an actual book instead of mostly listening to an audio one while doing other things. I get to wear cozy sweatpants and sip hot cocoa. It is a slower paced time and I am learning to be okay with that.

And just like with the weather, there are seasons to life. I am trying to lean into my current season instead of fighting it as well. This is such a weird time with my kids leaving home, perimenopause (seriously...aaahhhh!), and parents aging. So many emotions!

Projects

I was the queen of starting, but not finishing, many projects this year. Whether it was due to the budget (thanks layoff), boredom/distraction (I may or may not have recently discovered I have ADHD), or not being able to find certains items, I have loads of started projects but nothing to show for it. The good news is that it won't take much to finish.

But even with all the obstacles, I was able to get some projects completed so far this year. And with a few more finishing touches, I'll have a lot MORE to share with you. So buckle up. I will have several room makeovers coming soon...

I am looking forward to the new year and all of its possibilities!

What Are Butterkins?

I have always grown both butternut squash and pumpkins. Both take up a large amount of space. When I started growing cut flowers I had to figure out how to fit them in my garden so I grew butternut squash on a trellis. Then I finally gave up on growing pumpkins since we never actually ate them. But I missed being able to pick pumpkins to decorate with every fall. One day as I was scrolling all my favorite seed company websites when I came across a hybrid called a ButterKin. It looks like a pumpkin but tasted like a butternut squash!

They truly are the best of both worlds. I get darling medium sized pumpkins that have a tan, terracotta like skin color that are perfect for decorating with in the fall. But instead of throwing them out after Thanksgiving, or feeding them to our animals, I can store them all winter and eat them. Because let's be honest, no one is eating all 10+ pumpkins they use for decorations. Maybe one or two for pies and desserts. Maybe.

And to be perfectly honest, I think I like these better than butternut squash. Because while the taste is exactly the same, the butterkins have a smoother, velvety texture.

How To Grow Butterkins

You grow these sweet winter squashes like you would regular butternut squash. You can direct sow the seeds in the spring after all danger of frost is gone. For my zone 6b that is usually mid to late May. Or you can start them indoors 3-4 weeks before your last frost. They grow quickly so don't start them indoors before that.

You can either let the vines spread across your garden or grow them on a trellis. I have grown them on an A frame trellis both years I have grown them. In the past when I grew butternut squash, I noticed my yield went down by growing them on a trellis. This is due to the fact that the vines are not able to grow extra roots since they are not in contact with the ground. Normally, the nodes on the vines will grow roots when they are touching the soil.

But for me, the space I saved made up for that. Plus I like the look of the trellis. You have to decide if yield or space is more important to you.

The butterkins will start out green and will change color as they mature on the vine. By fall, most, if not all, will have turned the orangey tan color. But even if they haven't fully turned by the time of your first frost, you can still harvest them all. They will continue to ripen after they are picked.

You will need to order new seeds each year since this is a hybrid variety. If you try to save seeds to grow the next year, they will be unstable and will not come back true to the parent plant.

Storing Butterkins

I store butterkins the same way I store butternut squash and other winter squash. After I harvest them I let they sit in the sun. The sun will help harden the skin a bit so they last longer in storage.

After they have spent some time in the sun, I bring them in and store them in my vegetable storage cabinet which is in my dark, cool part of our basement.

They will store up to six months. However, the taste will change over time. Peak flavor is in the first 2-3 months. The squash we eat after 4-6 months are much less sweet.

You can also freeze cooked squash for up to a year. Cook it until it is soft and either mash or puree it before storing in your container of choice. I have done this and it maintains its flavor quite well.

You can also can winter squash as long as you use a pressure canner and follow the correct instructions.

How To Eat Butterkins

Butterkins are delicious! We love to eat it steamed and mashed with butter, as butternut squash soup, butternut ravioli, diced and added with other fall veggies in dishes like casseroles, and butternut squash risotto.

While the skin of the butterkin is not bad for you, it is tough and isn't pleasant to eat. You can either peel the skin off with a peeler before cooking or cut the butterkin in half and scrape the insides out after you steam.

Butterkins have solved my space problem in my garden and allowed me to grow "pumpkins" to decorate with that also taste YUMMY! I highly recommend you grow them if you like butternut squash.

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This post is sponsored by Digz Gardening but all thoughts are 100% my own.

Protect Tender Perennials

We have some things in our yard, like artichokes, that are normally treated as an annual in our zone 6 area. But with some extra care, can be winterized and they will make a comeback in the spring. Normally we cover them with a bunch of leaves and then place a tarp over them. But this year I decided to try a low tunnel, or hoop house. I am covering my craspedia (Billy Ball) flowers and I am excited to see how they do. I typically get 75% of them to come back each year with the leaves and tarp method so I am hoping to increase that number with the low tunnel. Hopefully it can keep the air temperatures, and more importantly, the soil temperatures warm enough. But if you don't want to go to the effort of creating a low tunnel the leaves and regular tarp has worked great for me for years. Just make sure to weigh down the tarp with pavers or rocks so it doesn't blow away. 

Protecting tender perennials like this is beneficial because it not only saves you money from having to replace them each year, but it also means the plant will get bigger and produce more year after year. You can see the plants I started this year (to replaces ones that didn't over winter) are so much smaller than the ones that are 4 years old. 

Plant Bulbs

Fall is a great time to plant bulbs for blooms the next year. There are fall planted bulbs and spring planted bulbs. Examples of spring planted bulbs are things like dahlias and canna lily which bloom in the summer. Fall planted bulbs are things like daffodils, hyacinth, and tulips and they bloom in the spring. So if you want a splash of color all through the spring, plant those bulbs now!

I created a new flower bed in the front yard and wanted to add some tulips. Since I had 100 bulbs for a relatively small bed, I just dug a trench instead of individual holes. 

Clean and Drain Water Features

We have a fountain that we enjoy most of the year, but we will drain and clean it in the late fall when temperatures start to drop dramatically. There have been times when we haven't taken the time to empty it and we always regret it come spring. It is a slimy, stinky mess! It is a good idea to cover it with plastic as well. 

We actually have a few fish that live in the fountain so they get moved to a giant plastic tote in our garage for a few months. They will actually hibernate. We don't feed them and they look like they are just suspended there floating. As it warms up in the spring, they will wake up and start swimming again. Then it's time to move them back out! If we had a pond or fountain that was deeper than 2 feet, we could probably keep them outside. But if our fountain isn't drained, it will completely freeze solid. 

Protect Outdoor Animals

Our coop area for our chickens, ducks, and bunnies is like it's own little climate since it is up against our brick garage and the neighbors shed on the other side of the fence. It also faces south. So they stay pretty warm. You may need consider a heat lamp in your coop if the temperatures are too cold. We do spread a fresh layer of straw on the ground though. This extra thick layer prevents it from getting muddy which keeps the animals cleaner and more comfortable. Except our naughty ducks. They always manage to find some mud!

Weed

If you have any weeds that you didn't get pulled during the summer, now is the time to take care of them before they go to seed. Weed roots will also continue to grow during the winter months so to prevent them from becoming a bigger problem in the spring, the best time to get rid of them now! Weed control starts in the fall. 

Skip The Pruning, Except...

Pruning is best left for late winter and early spring since it encourages new growth which you don't want to do during cold weather and right before the first freeze. There are some exceptions however like if there are damaged or diseased branches that need to come off for the overall health of the plant. Also, roses can send up these octopus like canes in the late summer or early fall. These tall canes can be trimmed down to the height of the bush to prevent them from breaking off with heavy snowfall or wind during the winter. 

Sprinklers & Hoses

To prevent any damage from freezing and expanding pipes, make sure to turn off your irrigation water valve and blow out your sprinklers. Your spring will be so much nicer if you don't have to dig up pipes and make repairs! Also remove and hoses from exterior spigots and put them away for the winter. 

Harvest Your Garden

I am sure you have been harvesting throughout the summer but now is the time to gather anything that is left out there. Usually the last things I collect from the garden are my winter squash and carrots. Winter squash will store longer if you let them sit in the sun so it will harden their skins. I wrote a blog post all about storing squash you can read HERE.

Carrots will taste sweeter and be even crispier if you wait to harvest them after the first frost. There have been some years I have even left some of my carrots in the ground through the early winter months. 

As far as herbs go, if they are annual herbs like basil, parsley, or dill, I pull the whole plant since it will not survive the winter or come back the next spring. But for perennial herbs, I cut them back a bit. Things like lemon balm and mint are collected and dried for tea. Other herbs are also dried and stored in jars for cooking.

I will rake up the leaves that are on the pea gravel. But I leave the others in the garden boxes since I have beneficial bugs like ladybugs that overwinter in the garden boxes. I even found some praying mantis eggs in a couple of spots as I was cutting herbs.

Garden Clean Up

After harvesting everything edible from your garden, it is time to clear out the dead plants. Now while I am a big believer in leaving flowerbeds alone for beneficial bugs to hibernate, it is important to clear the garden beds out of the dead vines and other plants especially if things like squash bugs and powdery mildew were a problem. You don't want those things living in your garden all winter. Add the dead plants that are disease and fungus free to your compost pile or to your local landfill. Most city landfills will create their own compost piles with the green waste. 

I also store any tomato cages or trellises in the garage until the following spring.

Preparing Your Soil

Once you garden is cleared of the dead plants, you can loosen the soil. After being walked on all season the soil is pretty compacted. Especially if you have heavy clay soil like we do. I have been experimenting with the "no-till" method of gardening for 4 years now. That could be a whole post on its own! Basically the thinking behind it is that it's better for soil health to not completely turn over the soil. It keeps all the microorganisms from being disrupted.

But I tilled for years and years and still had a great garden, so if that is easier for you or your own preference, then that is a great way to loosen the soil as well. I am currently using a broadfork to loosen the soil in my vegetable garden. I press the tines down in and then gently pull back. It takes about as long to do as it did to till. 

When the soils has been loosened, I add some type of organic matter. Examples of organic matter are aged manure, wood chips mulch, leaves, or compost. You could also grow a cover crop that would add nutrients back into the soil.

This year I am trying alfalfa pellets for a boost in nitrogen and mulched up leaves. Mulching the leaves helps speed up the decomposition process so you aren't left with slimy leaves in the spring. I simply mow over the leaves on my lawn and then empty the bag in my garden. I need to sharpen my lawn mower blade though, since this year I had to go over the leaves a couple of times to get them as small as I wanted. Which leads me into the next thing on the list. 

Clean And Sharpen Tools

When you are done with all your fall yard chores, clean and sharpen your pruners, clippers, lawn mower blades, etc so that come spring, they will be ready to go! If you are storing them outside in a shed or garage, you can store your sharp hand tools in a bucket of sand to help keep them clean, dry and sharp. 

Plant!

Did you know that fall is the perfect time to plant new perennials, bushes, and trees? I wrote a whole post about it! But basically it boils down to these reasons. There are less pests during that time of year to bug your new plant. Fall is when plants take up a lot of nutrients and devote energy to growing strong root systems so it gives them a head start over plants that go in the ground in the spring. Plus it is cooler so your plant won't have any stress from excess heat. Garden centers tend to have big sales in the fall. As long as the soil is workable, you can plant! So this is your permission to go buy new plants before the ground freezes :) There are a few more reason and more information in the post I wrote all about it HERE. 

Protect Young Trees and Bushes

If you have young trees, wrap them in white fabric tree wrap. This will prevent damage from sun scald (also known as southwest winter injury) which is when there is fluctuating temperatures in the winter months. The sun can heat up the cells in the tree bark and then when the temperatures drop again the cold temperatures kill off those cells causing lasting damage to the bark. 

If you have upright evergreen bushes, you may want to wrap them in burlap if your area experiences a lot of snow. Otherwise the snow can weigh down the branches causing them to either break or become permanently misshapen. 

Water Deeply

If you are experiencing a warm or dry fall, it is important to water your plants deeply, especially if they have been planted in the last few years. This can be a pain if your irrigation water has been shut off. You will have to fill up buckets or watering cans. But it is worth it so you don't lose any plants over the winter. If you find dead perennials, trees, or bushes in the spring, odds are they got too dry over the winter. It is a chore that is worth the extra effort. 

Flowerbeds

Like I mentioned up above, I tend to leave my flower beds alone in the fall. I will pull out any diseased plants though. Annuals that have a fungal disease like powdery mildew get pulled out and perennials get trimmed back so it doesn't become worse in following years. Just don't add them to your compost bin. 

But I leave my other plants alone in the flower beds since beneficial insects are known for overwintering in the leaf litter, plant debris, and in the stems of plants. I also love that the birds are able to eat the seeds from the perennial flowers and the sunflowers all winter long. Any leaves left in the beds will break down and add nutrients back into the soil so it really is a win win. Plus not cleaning out your flower gardens is one less thing to worry about in the fall. 

Test Your Soil

The fall is a good time to have your soil tested so you know which nutrients your soil needs. I have sent soils samples off to our local extension office at the university. You can look up online where your closest soil testing center is located. They will also have instructions on how to gather the soil sample, the type of container to use, and how to get it to them for the best results. A soil test is not expensive to do and is the BEST investment when it comes to your soil health and in turn your plants health. If you want a healthy garden, test your soil. Without knowing any better, you may be adding things to your soil that it doesn't need or too much fertilizer which can harm the overall health.  

I hope you enjoy working in the yard this fall season while the temperatures are cooler and the air smells sweet and crisp. Good luck on checking off all your garden tasks!

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This post is sponsored by Wagner but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own

Back Porch Before

She is very lucky to have not only a covered front porch but a spacious covered back porch. Just like the rest of her house, the siding gets stained with the iron that is in her well water. So just like her front porch makeover, I had to use the iron out stuff and a bit of elbow grease. 

Where the sprinklers hit her house the iron is quite dark from years of exposure. We attempted to get the iron off the concrete too. It definitely lessened the orange look, but it didn't come off completely. 

Painting The Back Door

Now for the the project my mom actually asked for... the door! She has completely loved having her front door be pink and since she spends quite a bit of time on her back porch, she wanted it to also be pink. I took the door off the hinges, took off the hardware, and placed it on some totes so it was at a comfortable level for me. I sanded it really well with a 220 grit sandpaper. 

Once it was all sanded, I scrubbed it clean with some soapy, wet rags. While I was taping off the glass, it started raining pretty hard so I moved the project to under the covered porch. Luckily I had a tarp with me to cover the patio. It continued to rain even while I was painting so I was very thankful for the covered patio. It was one of those storms where it rains while it is sunny. Beautiful!

I have said it before and I will say it again, A paint sprayer is the way to go if you need to paint doors. You will get a smooth, factory looking finish that is stunning. No brush strokes, no goopy runs, and no weird texture from a roller. I love my Flexio 3500! I used the detail finish nozzle to get that buttery smooth finish. 

Pink Fall Porch Decor

​When the door was dry, with some help, I got the door back up and added a new knob and lock. The old gold ones were not going with all the black accents. And then it was time to DECORATE!

I was just going to go for just a fall vibe, but them I saw these ghost pillows and it spiraled from there. How adorable are these? 

I visited my local nursery (where I sometimes work) and picked out their last 3 pink mums. I would have bought more if there were any. Ornamental kale would have also been a fun plant to use since they come in greens, whites, pinks, and purples. While I was there I also grabbed a bunch of white and green decorative pumpkins. I haven't grown pumpkins the last couple of years and I miss it!

I also quickly made a bat wreath with things I had on hand. It was the easiest craft ever! I painted a grapevine wreath black and added bat cut outs to wire and poked them into the wreath. The black really pops against the pale pink. If I were going for  more of just a fall vibe instead of Halloween, I could have left the wreath natural and added pink and purple leaves to create a fall wreath. 

I love using non-traditional colors when decorating for holidays. Pink and green were a fun colors to use for fall and Halloween because they are so different from the bright orange and browns we normally see with fall decorations. 

So like I said before, if you give me a small DIY project, I may need to add a few more things. And you may end up posing on your cute new porch in a witches hat. Isn't she adorable!?

Aside from the pillows and the wreath, I used primarily natural elements to decorate the porch for fall/Halloween. Seasonal decorating doesn't need to be expensive or over the top. Use things you have on hand, and things from nature in your front porch decor. 

In case you missed the other outdoor projects at my mom's house from the past couple of years, check out her raised garden beds from last year (which are right off of her back porch!) and her front porch makeover. 

I am really happy with how the porch turned out. In the past my mom has had a full set of patio furniture but she got rid of it because she prefers to keep it more open. It is easier for her to maneuver around if it is kept clear. She has a direct path to get to her garden boxes.

Do you decorate your porch for fall? What are your favorite things to add? I'd love to hear about it in the comments below :)

This post is sponsored my Digz Gardening but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

Picking The Grapes

Using clean, sharp pruners or snips is the best way to harvest the grapes whether you grow them yourself or you visit a U-Pick farm. It is so much better than trying to tear them from the vine. I love these new pruners from Digz Gardening. They feel great in your hands and are nice and sharp!

I wait as long as I can before I pick the concord grapes. The longer the grapes stay on the vine, the sweeter they get. Unlike some other fruit, grapes will not continue to ripen off the vine. You can taste test your grapes to see if they are sweet enough before picking them. The stems starting to dry out and turn brown are another indicator they are ready. I usually harvest them here in Utah around the beginning of October. Since my vines are relatively young, I was thrilled to get two full baskets this year! 

Types of Grapes

Before my vines were producing enough, I would add red grapes to the concord grapes so I ended up with more juice. It was still very yummy! I have also used all red grapes to make a beautiful pink grape juice. You can make grape juice out of any kind of grapes including green grapes. I just prefer concord grape varieties. 

Prepwork For Making Grape Juice

After bringing them inside, it is important to wash them really well. Especially if any were touching the ground. I soak them in water in a sanitized sink, drain, and then rinse. It is best to use fresh grapes that were just picked when making juice. But if you need to wait for some reason, you can keep them in the refrigerator until you are ready.  

Gather and sterilize your quart jars as well at this time. Have them ready to go on the counter. You can sterilize them by running them in the dishwasher with the high heat dry or by soaking them in hot soapy bleach water and then rinsing well.

Easiest Way To Make Grape Juice

I used to hate making grape juice. When I was younger and new to canning, I looked up instructions online and found a website that said to pick all the grapes off the stems and then add the grapes to a large pot. You were to mash them as they heated with a potato masher. Then you had wait until the messy mixture cooled to room temperature before you then squeezed it through cheesecloth. Skins and seeds always made their way through the cheese cloth because of the pressure of squeezing so you had to keep straining until it ran clear. I also tried using my juicer once which was a messy nightmare. I wish I would have asked others or done more searching online because once I found out about the steam juicer, I have LOVED making grape juice.

You simply place grapes (stems and all!) to the top section of the steamer and the juice will eventually come out the tube. The bottom section of the steamer is filled with water. I like to place a pitcher on a stool for the juice to collect in. I check it every so often and when it gets mostly full, I pour it into jars. It is nice to be able to do other things and let the steam juicer do all the work!

Keep adding grapes every now and then as the level of stems and skins goes down until you have added them all. There is no need to remove the old stems and skins before adding more grapes. Check the water level in the bottom of the steamer every 30-45 minutes to make sure there is enough water. If you are making a lot of juice you will eventually need to add more water so it doesn't burn. 

Once all your grapes have been added and there is no longer juice coming out of the tube. You are all done! I do like to tip the steamer forward a bit to ensure every drop comes out. TIP: Add the stems and skins to your composter! They are wonderful for making compost. 

Refrigerate & Strain The Juice

You will need to refrigerate the juice for about 24 hours before you can bottle them. This is because the juice will form natural tartrate crystals. Refrigeration also allows any sediment to sink to the bottom. In my early days of canning, I did not realize you needed refrigerate them so I had to strain each jar as we used them throughout the year. It is just easier to do the straining process all at once. 

I place cheese cloth over a fine mesh strainer which rests over a large stock pot. I then pour the cold juice through it. You will need to heat the juice back up before adding it to clean quart jars because if you added cold juice to the water bath canner, the drastic temperature change would cause the mason jars to crack. 

I do not add any sugar because the fruit juice is sweet enough as it is. I avoid added sugar in recipes when possible. 

Processing The Grape Juice

Add the heated juice to clean jars leaving about an inch headspace, clean the rims with a damp paper towel, and add new lids and rims. The quarts of hot juice are ready to go in the boiling water bath canner!

Because of the acidity of the juice, using a pressure canner is not necessary. A hot water bath canner is not very expensive and is so useful for canning a variety of things like tomatoes (and tomato based recipes) and pickled veggies. 

For elevations of 0-1,000 you only need to process pints and quarts for 5 minutes. For elevation 1,001-6,000 your processing time is 10 minutes. Above 6,000 feet it will take 15 minutes. 

When the jars come out of the water bath canner, twist the lid on as tight as you can and wait for them to seal and cool. Then you can store your homemade juice in a cool, dark place like a pantry. The deep purple color of the juice looks so pretty on your shelves! And it is so satisfying to know you made your own grape juice. Homemade grape juice will be the best grape juice you have ever tasted. 

Have you ever made your own homemade grape juice before? What method did you use and which types of grapes? I would love to hear about your experience!

*TIP: If you have a large amount of grapes, a great way to use extra juice is to make grape jelly. Just follow the instructions that come with your pectin box. It is really easy! 

Common Questions About Homemade Grape Juice

How long does grape juice last? 

Properly canned grape juice can last on your shelf pretty much indefinitely but it is recommended to use them within 3-5 years for the best flavor. All preserved food will start to lose flavor over time. 

How long does grape juice last once it's opened?

Once the jar of grape juice is opened (and refrigerated) is best to use it up within a week. 

Are there any health benefits of drinking grape juice?

Yes! Grape juice is full of antioxidants, vitamin C, manganese and other nutrients. But with most things, it is better to enjoy grape juice in moderation due to the high natural sugar content. I could easily drink the whole quart but chose to settle for one cup :)

Let me know if you have any other questions. If you want more information about preserving fruits and veggies from your garden you can read this post. Happy gardening!

This post is sponsored by Digz Gardening but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

​Tips For Harvesting Herbs

I love being able to walk out into my yard and cut fresh herbs anytime I want. You can grow them in your vegetable garden, raised beds, flowerbeds, and even in containers. Herbs are easy to grow and once you start, you'll be adding more and more to your space. The best thing about herbs is that you can harvest them all season long. The more you cut, the better they grow! Here are some tips for harvesting herbs.

When To Harvest Herbs

The best time to harvest herbs is mid morning after the dew has dried. Cutting the herbs when they are wet can increase the likelihood of mold. They will last longer if the leaves are dry. You want to cut them in the morning because that is when the essential oils in the plant are at their peak. In the heat of the day, the plant can wilt and have a less than desirable texture. So you want your herbs well hydrated but with dry leaves when you harvest them. That being said, there are many times when I cut herbs in the evening for the dinner I am making. If you forget the harvest at peak time, it doesn't mean you can't harvest at all. 

Tools To Harvest

Make sure you have really sharp clippers when harvesting your herbs. Really, you should have sharp clippers for every yard chore such as deadheading flowers or trimming trees. It is a good habit to get into. If you use sharp clippers you are less likely to cause damage to the plant while harvesting. I like to use either needle point clippers or a really good pair of scissors. These clippers are from Digz Gardening and are my absolute favorite!

To prevent the spreading of diseases from plant to plant, clean your clippers frequently. I used rubbing alcohol but you can also use lysol spray, cleaning wipes, or a soapy bleach solution. 

How To Cut Herbs

For most herbs, you will be cutting from the top of the plant. This helps encourage a bushy growth habit. For example, when you cut basil, find a spot on the plant where it branches or where there are new pair of leaves starting to grow. Cut the main center stem. The little baby leaves on either side will eventually turn into two new stems. This is good for the plant and prevents it from getting tall and leggy.

Harvesting from the top also stops the plant from flowering. If your herb flowers, it can reduce the flavor and size of the leaves since all the plant's energy is now going to producing seed. Cut off the flower buds when you first see them appear. If your plant does flower, you can simply prune them off and still use your herbs. They just might have a bit less flavor.

The flavor can also start to lessen towards the end of the season so if you are harvesting a bunch to preserve, do it closer to the end of summer instead of waiting until early fall for the best flavor. 

There are some exceptions to the "cut from the top" rule. Herbs like cilantro, chives, and parsley all get cut towards the base of the plant. 

The ⅓ Rule 

When you are pruning things in your yard or harvesting herbs, you should never take off more than ⅓ of the plant at a time. This prevents the plant from going into shock while promoting new growth. This is a good rule of thumb during the active growing season. If your herb is an annual herb, at the end of the season you can harvest the entire plant and preserve it for use later. I have a post about preserving your harvest. If your herb is a perennial, you can cut it back quite a but at the end of the season.

Storing Your Herbs

After collecting your herbs from your garden, store them separately so they retain their individual flavors. If you plan to use them soon, you can add them to plastic bags or containers to put in your fridge or you can add them to some water like you would flowers in a vase. If you want to store them for more long term use, drying them is the most common way. To dry herbs, you can use a dehydrator if you have one or simply tie them with string and hang them somewhere until they are completely dry. You may need to tighten the string during the drying process since the herbs shrink as they dry. I remove the leaves from the stem before storing.

Then you can add them to a jar or an airtight container to use later. Keep them in a cool, dry, dark place. I have a whole post about different ways to preserve herbs.

Herbs are one of the best things you can grow in your garden. They flavor foods, they are medicinal, they look great and smell amazing. You can keep cutting and they keep on growing! If you grow herbs, which is your favorite to grow?

PIN For Later:

This post is sponsored by Wagner but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

The pavers were all different textures and varying shades of gray since some were new, some old, and they came from different stores. I am all about using what you've got, so I needed a way to make them all work together without having to buy new matching pavers. Did this little corner of my yard NEED to be pretty and cute? No. Can you even see the pavers from the other areas of the yard? No. But sometimes pretty little details make you happy. And when all the (seemingly insignificant) pretty little details all add up, it makes your space special.

I have always, always loved the classic checkerboard pattern. I especially love my checkerboard ceiling and my checkered tile on my fireplace. Yes, it has gained huge popularity as of late and will probably fade a bit in the near future, but it will never go out of style. I decided I could color the pavers that were the odd balls and create a checkered pattern!

It is not a high traffic area. We only use the back gate when we need to access the firewood pile, compost bin, or use our trailers. But even still, I didn't want to paint the concrete. I opted to go for a concrete stain instead. I chose a charcaol gray color by Behr called Arctic Black.

I started by removing the pavers which was super easy since we had just placed them on top of the dirt.

While Shane dug down a few inches, I cleaned every single paver with a scrub brush. It was a long and tedious job, but necessary if I wanted the stain the adhere to the concrete. I let them fully dry before moving onto the next step.

It was time to stain the pavers! I used my favorite sprayer, the Flexio 3500 from Wagner. It can handle any paint, stain, or sealer. The stain was super thin like water and the concrete absorbed it like crazy. I ended up having to do 4 coats to get a uniform color. If you were doing a solid pad of concrete, you probably wouldn't need to do that many coats. But I was trying to hide the fact that they were all different colors so I needed more coverage.

While they dried, I moved onto prepping the space. We were trying to stick to a budget and this was such a small area, so we decided to skip the paver base step (crushed stone). We went straight to leveling sand. We did lay down some landscape cloth though to try to help with the weed situation. And technically we added a bit of gravel. But that was because we had monsoon storms come through and the gravel kept the cloth in place while it was windy.

I used a board to level the sand. I ended up switching to a 2x4 which worked much better.

Laying the pavers was actually fun, aside from the kneeling on 45 year old knees. Hahaha! It wasn't too bad since Shane was there to hand me a new paver. It was so nice to not have to get up and down a lot.

My favorite part was hitting the pavers with a rubber mallet to level them. It was very satisfying! I had a level with me to make sure they were as even as possible.

I noticed that the side of our gate that faces southwest, was faded and worn looking so I refreshed that side of the gates with a thin layer of stain. You can't have a shiny new paver area and shabby, faded gates now can you? My Flexio 3500 to the rescue again!

Once the pavers were all installed I hosed them off. We hung the gates back into place and it was finally all done. What should have been a quick weekend project ended up taking forever because of all the rain, but I am so happy we finally took the time to get this done. Even if no one really notices it but me :)

This post is sponsored by Wagner but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

Curb Appeal On A Budget

Sometimes when something shiny and new gets added to your house, you start to notice that other things around it look a bit shabby and could use some freshening up. My brother and sister-in-law didn't have a covering over their front porch and it was causing issues with water when it rained. They recently had an addition built over their porch to solve the problem. It really upped their curb appeal! But it made it even more obvious that the door needed a paint job. And if you ask me to paint your front door, odds are I'm going to do more than just that.

Freshening Up The Front Door

The door before was painted a dark brown. My sister-in-law's favorite color is purple. I am a firm believer in painting your front door whatever color you want. It is a fun way to show your personality. But if you want it to look the best, pick a shade of that color that compliments the house instead of one that fights against it. The brick has burgundy and plum colors in it so we decided to work with those tones when choosing a color.

The prep work always takes the longest. There was a lot of sanding involved! I scraped and sanded the trim around the door and then sanded the door itself.

I always take a door off the hinges and remove the hardware before I paint it. It is easier to work with it on a flat surface VS when it is vertical. Plus it makes the painting process so much easier.

Once the door was sanded down well with a 120 (you can also use 220) grit sandpaper, I wiped it down with damp rags to get rid of all the dust.

I filled my Flexio 3500 with the paint. You don't need to thin the paint down but I like to add a little bit of water if the paint seems a bit thick. Each brand of paint tends to be a different viscosity so it is a judgment call.

Always, always, always test the spray before you start painting your project. I usually have some scrap cardboard on hand but since I wasn't at my house, I tested it on the tarp.

I love how much control you have with the Flexio 3500. You can adjust the spray pattern and direction as well as how much paint comes out. I used the detail finish nozzle to get a super fine finish.

The color we chose is called Aubergine by Behr and is a beautifully rich plum color. In the sun it comes off more purple-y and in the shade it looks more burgundy. It suits the color of the bricks perfectly.

Fixing Any Cracks

There were some cracks in the mortar in the brick work around the door that happened due to settling over time. I filled those and the gap around the door with the mortar caulk. I even went around the window. It is a small detail most won't notice, but helps the house look fresh and new. I tried 3 different brands and DAP Premium Textured Mortar Advanced Latex Concrete and Mortar Sealant was hands down my favorite.

Ladscaping

The front beds got weeded and I filled their planters with some beautiful coleus that were a very similar color to the new front door. The purple potato vine with grow big and spill over the sides.

Adding Shutters

Many years ago I built some basic shutters for our house and I was blown away by how adding something so simple made such a huge impact. I knew I wanted to make some for this house as well. They are made of 1x4 boards. I screwed them other from the back so the screws were not visible from the front. We were able to make it so that the screws to attach them to the house went through the mortar instead of the brick.

Little Details Add Curb Appeal

Using the same stain color as the shutters, I used a scrap piece of wood the make a house numbers sign. I cut out vinyl but you could also easily used house numbers that screw on.

I also added a little bush for some greenery on the porch.

Overall I didn't really didn't do a whole lot (and I definitely didn't spend very much) but I think it made a BIG difference with the overall curb appeal. The photos don't really do it justice, but it looks so fresh and more complete!

If you are looking to refresh your home in a weekend and are on a budget, save this for later!

Pin For Later:

Backyard Wedding On A Budget

If you have a wedding coming up and are looking for a way to keep the cost down, I have loads of ideas of how to DIY it and save money!

The Venue

When I was 11 years old I wrote in my journal that I wanted to have the kind of backyard that people would want to have their wedding receptions. That dream came true in 2024 with not one, but two weddings! Our son's and our best friend's daughter. I was thrilled when my son and his fiance said they wanted to have the wedding reception in our yard. By hosting it here, it saved us THOUSANDS of dollars. Renting venues (outdoor or indoor) can be a very BIG part of the wedding budget. Or it can be FREE if you choose a backyard.

The Theme

It was so fun to sit down with my daughter-in-law and discuss the theme, colors, and all the fun details. Turns out, we have very similar styles! I had secretly started a pinterest board back in February with possible ideas. When she showed me her board, more than half of the pins were the same! She wanted a "cottage garden party" theme with lots of wildflowers.

The Flowers

Since I have been growing cut flowers for the past 3 years, and because I had a heads up before it was time to start seeds indoors, I was able to tailor the types of flowers I grew to match the colors and wildflower vibe. What was even better was that my DIL wanted to help plant them. Not many brides can say they helped grow their own wedding flowers! If this is something you want to do, I have posts on starting seeds indoors as well as growing cut flowers.

This also saved us THOUSANDS of dollars. I know this is not an option for everyone, but I had the knowledge and the space to do it and the timing of the wedding worked out perfectly for the flowers to be at their peak.

I also have a little experience with making flower arrangements so I also acted as the florist. The ground arch was made up of 6 large floral arrangments which I made the night before. I also helped my DIL make her bouquet. I even made the pocket boutonniere for my son.

The night before the wedding, the bridesmaids came over for a "U-Pick" bouquet making party. Since the bridesmaids were all wearing bright colors, the bride decided to have them make all white bouquets. It was a lovely choice and they had fun putting them together.

There were some flowers that I did not have enough of to make the giant floral ground arch. I also needed some extra greenery to act as filler. So if you can't grow your own flowers, here are my best recommendations for getting quality flowers on a budget.

Traders Joes

They get flowers in pretty much every day at 7am. It is best to get there early. The location matters too. In Utah we have smaller stores with a smaller selection and we have larger stores with a huge floral section. Go every day, starting 3 days before the wedding, to ensure you are getting all the types you want and the amount that you want since you can't order them ahead of time. This is a good option for supplementing or if you're doing a simple wedding with not as many flowers. I pretty much just needed more feverfew (chamomile) since my plants had started to slow down due to the August heat.

Flower Moxie

I needed more delphiniums than what my garden could produce (I didn't want to cut them all) and they are not a flower carried by Trader Joe's. A florist friend told me about Flower Moxie. Not only do they sell fresh cut flowers, they also have great videos showing how to DIY your wedding flowers! I was able to get 50 delphinium stems and some fern like greenery for the ground arch. It gets delivered right to your door a day or so before your event.

Costco

My florist friend also recommended Costco. I ended up not needing to order anything from them but I did check out their flowers and greenery. They will also ship to your home and are reasonably priced.

Dance Floor

You can rent a dance floor, but I found that they were very expensive and they were not the exact look we were going for. I decided to DIY the dance floor! It cost less than half of the rental price and we can reuse it for future weddings! I have a whole post breaking down how we built it and the cost.

You could always opt to not have a dance floor and just have a designated area for dancing. Dancing on the grass or a patio would totally work! Use string lights, planters, or chairs to distinguish it as the dance area.

Cake

Neither my son or his wife are big fans of cake, so they opted for a cheesecake instead. Her step mom is a great baker and offered to make it for them. If you have someone in your family or circle of friends who can bake, this will really help save money. When I got married, my mom's friend made our cake as her wedding gift to us. Or you can choose to do something other than cake! Stack up donuts, cupcakes, or another dessert. Get creative!

Decor

One upside of having a backyard wedding is that you don't need as much decor. Anything else you need, if you can DIY it, will help cut down the cost.

I was able to build the welcome sign, cut out vinyl, make the string light planter pots, refinish thrifted furniture, and we built a fence to hide the trampoline.

I also thrifted baby food jars to hang from the trees with battery operated tea lights. They are hard to see in the photos, but they were spectacular in person! Especially when the sun was starting to set and it got a bit darker.

While the bridesmaids were making bouquets inside, the groomsmen were hanging the lights. Eight groomsmen, one groom, three dads, and six ladders was what it took to hang 150 jars in four large trees.

In our state, there are TONS of people who rent out wedding decor like centerpieces, candlesticks, mirrors, signs, vases, etc. You can look on FB marketplace or your online yard sale sites. Sometimes they are looking to sell for really cheap to recoup some of their wedding cost. I would advise going that route instead of buying new. We were able to rent small bud vases and brass candlesticks for the large farmhouse tables.

Food

Where we live, it is much more common to only serve dessert at a wedding reception. After the actual wedding ceremony you host a luncheon with the ceremony guests. The ceremony is usually more intimate with mostly family. We had about 75 guests. Then later that evening you have a reception for all the other people in your lives that you want to celebrate with like friends and neighbors. We didn't get a head count on how many ended up coming but it was HUNDREDS. It is more of an open house where guest can come, visit, eat, and leave when they want. There was a constant flow of people coming and going.

We had some of the food catered from a local university. BYU is known for their yummy pastries! It is also a cost effective option. We also had some of the desserts made by family members who wanted to help. My DIL's step mom is famous for her macarons so she made about 1,000 in the wedding colors. We also had lemon bars, sugar cookies, snickerdoodles, oatmeal cookies, brownies, mini cheesecakes, and a chocolate fountains with strawberries to dip.

There was also a soda bar with custom drinks and a water table.

Music

They opted for a sound system and a prerecorded playlist rather than live music. We own two large bluetooth speakers that we placed near the dance floor and tables. We had asked a family member ahead of time to act as the DJ and be in charge. He was thrilled because it got him out of dancing :)

Kid Corner

My daughter-in-law wanted to have a place for all the little kids, which I thought was brilliant! The reception was over 2 hours long and some family stayed the entire time. It was nice for the nieces, nephews and little cousins to hang out. We placed it near the animals since we figured they would be drawn naturally to that area. There was a table with custom wedding themed coloring books, bubbles, and a play tent. We also had corn hole!

Photo Booth/ Sign In Table

Instead of a traditional sign in table for the guests, we had a photobooth. Once you took your photos, it would print out 2 copies. One to keep and one to slip into the sign in book.

Splurge VS Save

It was awesome watching my son and his wife be smart with the money they were given and being thoughtful on what to splurge on VS what to cut back on based on their priorities. One "splurge" was renting farmhouse tables and wood chairs instead of renting less expensive plastic ones. I think it was a good move since it really contributed to the cottage garden party vibe. Make a list of all your wants with your favorites at the top and ones you would be okay with dropping towards the bottom. It helps knowing where to put your money.

Be Prepared

We rented 2 large white wedding tents just in case it rained or we had a heat wave. We also reserved our church's gymnasium as a last resort since it was free. It did end up raining that day. But luckily it ended before the reception started. Even though it stunk having to pay for something we didn't end up using, it was nice to have the peace of mind. I found the tents on FB marketplace. It was a local man who rented them out and it was very inexpensive compared to renting from a wedding rental company.

It was such a wonderful day filled with love. I am so happy to have our beautiful new daughter-in-law in our family. She is the perfect fit!

This post is sponsored by Wagner and contains an affiliate link to their sprayer. All ideas and project ideas are 100% my own.

How To Build An Arched Gate

We built a frame to fit in between the new posts. We built it out of 2x4s. It was 4 feet high because we wanted the sides to be the same height as where the start of the rounded part of the gate.

Then I added the 6 foot fence pickets to the frame with exterior screws.

Once the pickets were added, I used a pencil and some string to draw on the arch. I could have gone all the way to the top and made this gate 6 feet tall, but I wanted this gate to be smaller since it was so narrow compared to all our other gates.

I nailed on a board to the top of the pickets. I have found after building 3 sets of rounded gates, that it is easier to have them all connected as I cut along the rounded line. But this step isn't absolutely necessary.

I used a jigsaw to cut along the line I drew.

Best Way To Stain A Gate

Now it was time for the fun part! Staining the gate!

I used my Wagner Flexio 3500 to apply the stain. I used the same dark brown stain that I have used on the other gates, our fence, our large arbor, and our sliding planter wall. Fence pickets are so rough so it is tough to use a roller or brush. A sprayer is so much faster too! It is so satisfying.

I always recommend to use cardboard or scrap wood to test your spray pattern and output before spraying your actual project. There are 9 speed power settings, variable paint flow, adjustable spray width, different pattern size and direction (horizontal/vertical and wide/narrow). You have so much control over the spray!

It also come with an additional spray tip and canister for fine finishes like when I painted my kitchen cabinets.

Once I had both sides stained as well as the posts, I let them fully dry over night before installing the gate. We ended up using the same fence post bases as the garden X fence. They pound into the ground and then you simply add the post and screw it in.

I added a cute crystal door knob (like the other gates). I am thinking of adding solar lights to the posts. What do you think? Yes, or no?

It is even Kevin approved :)

Have you ever built a gate? What projects are on your spring and summer to-do list?

Other Arched Gates on our property:

DIY Hanging Planter Supplies:

• Drill
• Diamond Bit
• Water Bottle
• String, Rope, Chain, or Twine
• Measuring Tape
• Marker or Chalk

The method I will show you will work on ceramic, terra cotta, and glass pots/containers. For metal pots, use a metal drill bit and for plastic pots use a regular drill bit.

I start by measuring and marking where I want the holes to go on the pot. If you use a marker, the marks can be removed with a Magic Eraser. If you are marking a non shiny surface you can use chalk.

Add the diamond bit to the drill. I chose a bit that would create a ¼" hole.

You are going to want to spray the surface before you start drilling. Diamond bits have diamond dust glued to them. The reason you need a spray bottle with water is that when you drill, it creates friction which in turn creates heat. To keep the glue from melting, you will need to spray the drill bit with water occasionally while drilling.

Start drilling with the drill bit held at an angle. Once a small notch has formed in the surface of the pot, you can slowly start to level it out so it is flat on the surface.

Don't drill too close to the edge of the pot. I like to go down about an inch from the top. Remember to spray the drill bit with water to keep it wet and cool.

Depending on the thickness and the strength of the material, it can take as long as a couple minutes worth of drilling. Be patient and don't push too hard. Allow to bit to do the work. If you push down on the drill too much, when it does finally break through, it could slam the drill into the pot and chip or break it.

Once it does go all the way through, repeat the process for the other 2 holes. Then you can clean it up and it is ready for the string, rope, chain, or whatever you choose to hang it with.

This particular pot does not have a drainage hole because I like my hanging planters to act as a catch pot. That means I add a pot with a drainage hole into the hanging pot. This pot will "catch" any water that drains out. If you want your hanging planter to have a drainage hole but it doesn't have one, this method works to add drainage holes as well.

Now that you know this little trick, you can turn just about anything into a hanging planter!

Growing Herbs From Seed

The first thing you need to determine is if the herb is an annual or a perennial. Perennial herbs will need to be started indoors and earlier than you start the annual herbs since they generally take longer to reach maturity. I live in zone 6 and like to start my perennial herbs anywhere from early February to mid March. My annual herbs get started anywhere from mid March to mid April. I like the herbs to be fairly big before transplanting outside. You can sow seeds of annual herbs outside in early spring, you will just have wait a bit longer before being able to harvest off of mature plants. Starting herbs indoors gives you a head start to the growing season.

You can use things like egg cartons and clear plastic salad containers or you can buy seed trays. You can even use individual pots. I start almost everything I grow each year from seed indoors, so having lots of seed cell trays on hand makes sense for me. I have been using the ones I currently have for 5 years now. 

Planting Herb Seeds

Fill your containers or trays with a quality seed starting soil. Don't pack it in too firmly. Seed starting mixes are great because they are free of large pieces of bark. Seedling like fluffy soil so their little root can easily grow. It is a good idea to add some water to the soil so it is moist before planting.

Once you have your containers filled with soil, read the planting directions for each type of seed. Generally speaking, the larger the seed, the deeper it will get planted. But it is best to read the instructions on the back of the seed packet. I like to use a toothpick to create holes in the soil for the seeds. If the seed only needs to be lightly covered, I add the seeds to the top of the soil and then add a dusting of soil after. 

Watering Herb Seeds

The reason I like to use seed cell trays, is that they come with a bottom tray. It is easy to add water to the bottom tray and then the water is absorbed slowly through the drainage holes. Bottom watering is best for seedlings. If you used another type of container, be very careful when watering from the top so you don't disrupt the seeds and tiny seedlings. 

Herb Seed Germination

It is important that the soil doesn't dry out during the germination process. The trays I use also come with a clear plastic cover to keep the humidity high while germinating. Once the seeds germinate, I remove the covers. If you don't have clear plastic covers, you could use plastic wrap, a clear plastic bag, or some other type of plastic covering. 

To help the germination process, I place my trays on heat mats. While one could argue that they aren't necessary, I have found they not only sped up the germination process, they also increase my germination rate. Once the seeds have germinated and I have removed the covers, I also remove the heat mat. 

Lighting Needs For Herb Seedlings

Let's talk about light. While you can get away with not buying cell trays with covers and heat mats, the one thing I think is a must are grow lights. They are inexpensive and easily found in stores and online. If you try to grow seedling by placing them in a sunny windowsill, chances are, they will get leggy. They will be reaching and reaching to get more light. Especially in the winter when there is less sunlight. Hanging a grow light directly above the seedlings allows them to grow nice and strong without them reaching to find enough light. You will get strong, bushy plants instead of tall spindly ones. 

Adjust the grow light so it hangs 3-4 inches above the seedlings. Raise them as the seedlings grow. I like to use S hooks and chain so I can easily adjust them. I have also used zip ties and string. Seedlings like 16 hours of light a day. You can buy power strips that have a built in timer so the lights will turn on and off on their own. 

The Importance Of Air Circulation For Herb Seedlings

I like to place a fan in front of the shelves my seedling are on. The fan blowing on them recreates outside conditions and will help strengthen them. When wind blows on the stems, it stimulates a hormone call auxin which strengthens the cells in the stems. Wind also prevents fungus and mold from growing on the soil surface which causes damping off (a fungal disease where the base of the plant rots and dies). So blast that fan for healthy seedlings!

Thinning Your Herb Seedlings

Once your seedlings are about 1 inch, it is time to thin them down to one seedling per cell, or pot. I try to only plant one seed per cell, but sometimes when they are teeny tiny seeds, it is hard to tell how many I dropped in the hole. As hard as it is to do, you will need to remove the extra seedlings. The main seedling you keep, will grow bigger and strong without other around it competing for space, water, and nutrients. I use tiny scissors. Don't pull them out! This will disrupt the roots of the seedling you want to keep. 

Fertilizer For Herb Seedlings

Once the seedlings have true leaves and are about 2-3 inches tall, you will need to start fertilizing. Use a water soluble fertilizer that is balanced, meaning the npk (nitrogen, phosphate, potash) numbers are all the same (like a 3-3-3 fertilizer). 

Once the plant has outgrown the cells, if it isn't time to plant them outside, I plant them in a larger container. If it is warm enough outside, you can simply plant them there.

Hardening Off Your Herbs Plants

Because your herbs have been growing in a pretty controlled environment, if you planted them outside without getting them use to it, they would more than likely die. Take them outside and put them in light shade for a couple hours a day. Gradually increase the amount of time they are out and how much sun exposure they get. Do this for at least a week and a half to two weeks. It greatly reduces the risk of transplant shock. This is the scariest part for me! I'm always afraid I am going to forget them outside and all my hard work will go down the drain. Set a time on your phone. That has really helped me!

Once the danger of frost is gone in your area, you can finally transplant your herb plants outside! Make sure to plant your herbs in a spot that gets enough sun for that type of herb. Basil likes full sun while some herbs like lemon balm plants do better in partial shade. Figure out which herbs need direct sunlight and which can handle some shade before you plant. They will also need well-drained soil. I have a whole post on growing herbs complete with the difference between annual vs perennial and how to use the herbs in your cooking! You can check it out HERE. By early summer you will be enjoying your fresh herbs!

Whether you have a full blown kitchen garden with garden beds full of culinary herbs, or you grow them in larger containers on your porch, growing different herbs is a great idea. It is the best way to add flavor to meals. There is such a variety of herbs out there, there's bound to be some you enjoy. Aside from their culinary uses, there are many medicinal herbs. Either way, herbs are healthy for you. 

If the herb forms flower buds, the leaves will start to loose flavor because all the energy is going to the flower. I like to deadhead the herbs so they stay flavorful. If you allow your herbs to flower, you can collect them and save your own herb seeds to plant next year. I have a whole post on how to collect and save seeds!

The best part of growing your herbs from seeds is being able to garden during the winter. It is so fun to watch for the little seedlings to emerge and to watch them grow daily. I get so excited everytime there is new growth. I hope this guide helped you feel confident in trying to grow herbs from seed. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to comment below or email me. Happy growing!

Snake Plant Care

Snake plants (sansevieria) are sometimes referred to as Mother-In-Law's Tongue. They have a unique, upright spiky growth habit that really adds interest to your space! There are lots of different snake plant varieties too! There are snake plants that are variegated, twisted, smaller, and some with rounded cylindrical leaves. Here are some common questions about growing and caring for snake plants. 

How Much Light Does A Snake Plant Need?

Part of why this plant gets labeled as "easy" is because snake plants can tolerate low-light conditions. But low light doesn't mean NO light. Don't place it in a bathroom that doesn't have a window or stick it in a closet. Just because it can handle a low amount of light, doesn't mean it will thrive there. They do like sun. Snake plants can handle up to 10 hour of indirect light a day. So if it is in low light conditions, maybe move it to a sunnier location every once in awhile. 

Indirect sunlight is best for most houseplants. Direct sunlight (if the sun is directly on the plant) the leaves can burn and form brown spots. 

Make sure to dust your healthy leaves so they can better take advantage of the sun without the dust blocking it or clogging the plant's pores. Take a clean, damp cloth and wipe the dust off each snake plant leaf. 

What Kind Of Soil Do Snake Plants Need?

Snake plants are succulents so they need a well-draining soil mix. Soil type is important! Use a chunky soil or potting mix that allows for good drainage and not one primarily made of moisture retaining material. Many potting soils, even the ones labeled for houseplants, hold on to water. Look for soils that say "cactus" or "succulent" on the bag. 

How Much Do You Water A Snake Plant?

Because it is a succulent, the soil needs to dry out completely before you water again. Be weary of watering on a set watering schedule. I set reminders weekly to CHECK my houseplants and only water those that need it. You can stick a moisture meter or a kabob stick in the soil to see how far down the soil is dry. 

Make sure that the pot your snake plant is growing in has at least one drainage hole. More drainage holes are better. Soggy soil will lead to root rot.

When & How Do You Repot A Snake Plant?

Snake plants like to be snug in their pot. They don't need to be repotted often. Wait until you see roots coming out the bottom of the pot or when the roots start to circle the pot.

You can either loosen the roots a bit and re-pot in a pot that is ONE pot size bigger, or you can remove some of the pups and replant in the current pot it was in before.  

Again, make sure the pots you are choosing have a drainage hole. If you have a container you want to use that doesn't have a drainage hole, either drill a drainage hole or use it as a catch pot.

A catch pot is where the plant is growing in either a growers plastic pot in came in or another pot with holes and then you place it in a pot without drainage. It is a good idea to remove the plant from the catch pot to water and when it has finished draining, put it back in the catch pot. 

Why Is My Snake Plant Turning Yellow?

This is a bit of a tricky question because there are multiple possible causes for yellow leaves. The most common reason is over watering. But it can also happen if the plant was exposed to extreme sudden changes in temperatures. Or if it is one or two of the snake plant's leaves only, it could be just because those are older leaves and ready to die, which it okay and normal.  And every once in a while it can also mean under watering or a nutrient deficiency. 

But let's address the most prevalent reason for yellowing leaves, over watering. If a snake plant has soggy soil that isn't allowed to fully dry out between waterings, it can lead to root rot. Sometimes the leaves don't turn yellow but instead start to fall over due to excess water and poor drainage. 

On the flipside, don't give it less water when you DO water it. People often confuse the term "overwatering". Overwatering doesn't mean how much water you give the plant when watering. Instead, it means how OFTEN you water. If you are watering TOO OFTEN that means it is overwatered. When the soil has dried out 100%, pour water until it runs out the drainage holes in the bottom. Then leave it alone until it dried out completely again. 

If the sword-like leaves start to look shriveled, it means it is not getting enough water. Simply water it and it should perk up.

Can you save a snake plant with root rot? YES! As long as there are some healthy roots left. You will need to remove the soil and throw it away. Rinse the roots well and use sterilized clippers to cut off any rotted parts.

Spray some watered down hydrogen peroxide onto the roots and then replant it in clean fresh soil. Give it some time to grow new, healthy roots. 

How Do You Propagate A Snake Plant?

Do you want more snake plants? Here are how to make new plants to increase your snake plant collection :) 

Propagating Snake Plants In Water

One way to propagate snake plants is to cut the top part of a leaf and add it to water. You can cut the snake plant leaves straight across or you can cut a notch in the bottom. I have always done a straight cut but I think the reason for the notch is it creates more surface area for roots to grow.

Water propagation for snake plants takes time. It typically takes 2-4 months. Make sure to check the water level in your container periodically and refresh when needed or the leaf cuttings will dry out. You will not only get new roots, but new growth as well. Look at the tiny leaves on this cutting!

*Something to Note: The plant that grows from a cutting will always revert back to a basic green color snake plant. So if you have a variegated type and want the new plant to look like the parent plant, you will need to divide. See below. 

Propagating Snake Plants In Soil

Another way to do snake plant propagation is to take cuttings and plant them directly in soil. Soil propagation will also take 2-4 months but the drawback is that you can't see if roots are developing. Be patient! If you cutting looks healthy, chances are its working on growing a root system. 

Propagating Snake Plants By Division

Snake plants grow new little "pups" which can sometimes cause it to seem like it is going to burst out of the pot.

You can pot it up in a larger pot or remove the new pups. Take the plant out of the pot and use your fingers to feel around for where the pup is connected to the mother plant. Use clippers or a sharp knife to make a clean cut and remove it.

You can now pot up the baby in some new soil and a new pot. This is the fastest and easiest way to create a new mature plant. You can keep it or share and find it a new home.

Conclusion

Snake plants really are a good choice for indoor plants. For the most part they are very low maintenance. I almost hate that snake plants have a reputation of being "impossible to kill" because any plant is easy to kill if you don't know how to care for it. Some may take longer than others to die so maybe that is where this is coming from. Please don't feel bad if you have ever killed one. Don't let it stop you from trying again with this, or any other kind of plant. All you need is more knowledge to be able to give you plant the proper care. 

Surgery

Back in May/June of last year I had some sort of injury to my spine. I am not sure when it happened exactly. I was doing an insane amount of yard work by myself (up to 14 hour days) to get ready for the weddings. But we also had a lake trip in early June where it could have happened. The MRI (months later) estimated the time of injury as that time period but I didn't start feeling pain until mid June.

It ended up being a couple of herniated disks that were pinching my sciatic nerve and a severe annular tear. I lived with the pain (going to the chiropractor to try to find relief) until the fall when it got progressively worse. I finally got an MRI in late November.

Within 24 hours of the MRI being read, I was sitting in a surgeon's office. One who normally takes months to get into see. We scheduled the surgery for as soon as the hospital's surgical center had an opening. I woke up from surgery and got teary eyed because it was the first time I hadn't been in major pain for 7 months. I could handle the pressure and mild pain in my back. It was much better than nerve pain in my back and left leg.

The recovery in total is 6 months. The first 6 weeks were brutal! I finally don't have to wear my brace all day. And I'm weaning off in office physical therapy. I am looking forward to bending and twisting again one day. Haha! It's crazy the things you take for granted until you can't do them anymore.

Welcome Home!

About a month after my surgery, my second oldest son returned home from his mission. He served a 2 year mission for our church in the North Eastern part of the United States. He lived in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont. He loved teaching and serving the people there! We were all so excited to have him home though.

I took January off from blogging and social media to regroup and recover more. And to spend time as a family now that we are all in the same state again. I love the reflection and planning that the start of a new year brings.

Home Goals 2025

Last year taught me that you can plan all you want, but life throws things at you that will change it all in a second. So this year, I am not making super concrete project plans. I have a list I would LIKE to get done, but I am not EXPECTING to get them all done.

#1. Add An Awning

I would love to add an awning above the kitchen door. It faces south and gets harsh light. There is also nothing protecting the porch and door from rain. I think it would not only be super functional, but would add even more charm to that side of the house.

#2. Refresh The Office

You know I love GREEN. I adore it. I even painted my kitchen cabinets green this year. But the office faces north west so most of the day it is in the shade. It is the darkest room in the house until the sun starts to set in the late afternoon. Since the room has a cooler shade of green, gray, and white, it comes off very cool. I want to warm it up a bit and bring some sunshine vibes to the space. Shane and I spend a lot of time working in there, so I want to refresh it to feel brighter.

#3. Down Bathroom Renovation

Our poor basement bathroom keeps getting ignored. Just as we are about to get going on the demo, something like a wedding crops up! But I really need to push this up the to-do list and make it a priority. I bought the tile like 3 years ago. I just need to pull the trigger.

#4. Travel

Last year was first year we didn't do any sort of traveling. No camping or anything. All our time was spent preparing for the weddings and then gearing up for surgery. I am hoping to do hiking trips, camping, family reunions, and a senior trip with our third after he graduates. We don't do fancy, expensive vacations, but we do love exploring new outdoor adventures!

It is also our 25th wedding anniversary this year and since we didn't get to celebrate at all last year, I am hoping to at least get a little staycation in.

#5. Down Hall

Our downstairs hall is very.... functional. And boring. But since it is out of sight to most everyone and isn't a top priority, it has been neglected for far too long. I have hopes of creating a gallery wall with photos and keepsakes from all our travel adventures. We definitely need to add in some color too!

#6. Bedroom Refresh

I am craving a cottage core bedroom full of color, florals, and a bit more of a light and airy feeling than my current moody boho space. I am having a hard time narrowing down all the elements I want to add. It may the first time I start a room without the end result clearly in my mind. There is something exciting about slowly pulling it together over time.

#7. Spend Time Outdoors

I choosing to title this one "spending time outdoors" because while we normally do at least one large outdoor project every year, I am not sure that will happen or not this year. I am going to focus on regular yard maintenance and planting instead. And since my spinal surgery, I know I can't keep the same pace I have in the past. My days of working 10-14 hours in the yard are gone. My doctor said I'd be lucky to do 3 hours of hard work a day. So for this first year post surgery, I will take it a bit easy. Or as least as easy as I can. There will be small improvements here and there, but I think our big plans will need to wait a bit.

When the projects are big or small, I am looking forward to a new year, warmer weather, and having all my kids back in Utah :)