Bokeh is the term used to describe how good the out of focus blur, which is usually in the background, looks. Good bokeh will show attractive out of focus highlights and how the lens you're using is designed and the shape of its aperture play an important role in creating bokeh that works. Different apertures and how far you are from your subject also affect how good the bokeh will look in your shot.

1. Lens Choices

The shape of your lens aperture will change depending on how many blades are used and what shape they are. These blades are what open and close to let more/less light through onto the sensor. The more blades there are, the rounder the opening will be which can mean the shape of the out-of-focus highlights in the background of your shot (the bokeh) will be more circular. Generally, the more expensive lenses have more blades and as a result, they generally create bokeh that's more pleasing. Longer lenses tend to produce better results too, however, some lenses will produce better bokeh in some situations than others so try putting your lens to the test, shooting close up portraits against a background that has highlights that can be thrown out of focus.
 

2 Depth Of Field

You may think that using the maximum aperture will give you the best results but sometimes it's worth using a slightly smaller aperture so you can still make out some of the shapes in the background of the shot. Make sure you focus on your subject at the front of the frame too so everything behind can fall nicely out of focus. Putting a little distance between your subject and the background will also help enhance the effect. If you don't have a subject in the foreground and are going for a more abstract shot you'll need to focus manually.

3. Play With Shapes

You don't just have to settle for circular out of focus highlights as you can use black card and a pair of scissors to change the shapes that appear. You need to decide on a shape cut it out of the card then fast the card around your lens like you would a lens hood. Try to not make your shapes too small or complicated as they won't stand out very well in your final shot.
 

4. Get Out At Night

During the evening, the glow coming from various colourful lights in towns and cities make perfect backgrounds for this technique. Just remember to use a longer lens with a wide aperture, focus on your subject and everything in the background of your shot should glow. Keep an eye on your shutter speeds when working in low light as if you drop too low it can cause the lights in the background to blur rather than glow so you may need to increase your ISO.

5. Other Suggestions

Try shooting close-up portraits against a background of foliage where the speckles of light can be turned into out of focus highlights. Sun glinting off water and glass can also be turned into blurry circles of light too. You can also use fairy lights indoors to create out of focus coloured circles.
 

6. So Remember:

• Use a longer focal length
• Switch to a wider aperture
• Focus on your subject
• Put a little distance between your subject and the background
• Backgrounds with individual, glowing points of light work well

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[SECTION]INTRODUCTION[/SECTION]

It seems several themes have been emerging in the Leica family. We have the M series rangefinder style, the DSLR/Mirrorless style and cameras with or without that famous Red Dot. The new 44.9MP SL3-P combines the understated (no red dot) and the bold and brash LEICA name emblazoned on what would have been the front of the pentaprism in a DSLR. A hybrid in many senses of the word, let's see if this new Leica hits the spot, not only for photographers but also for videographers.

Leica SL3-P Features

First impressions are that this is a large camera/lens combination. Although we start with a reasonable 768g for body only, if we add the battery, an SD card and the Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH lens, we are now wielding a rather heftier 1702g. That does not even include the metal lens hood, which was not sent with the review sample. The size of the camera is part of this bulk, but of course its all metal Magnesium/Aluminium construction clinches it. It may be heavy, but it is solidly made. Leica are confident to offer IP54-rated dust and moisture resistance. Operation is from -10C to +40C, so a wide range of conditions can be handled. Dimensions are 141.2 x 108.0 x 84.6mm.

There is a full-frame 44.9MP BSI CMOS sensor, plus Leica's Maestro IV processor. 5-axis IBIS is improved and now offers a 5 stop advantage. Speed is also increased to 40fps with full AF.

There are two card slots, one for CF Express Type B (recommended) and one for SD cards. SD/SDHC/SDXC, UHS-I and UHS-II (recommended) SD cards are supported. Connectivity is via the ISO Accessory Shoe, HDMI 2.1 Type A, USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C, plus a communication interface in the baseplate for the multifunctional handgrip.  Bluetooth and WiFi are included. The Leica FOTOS App offers remote control, fast data transfer, geotagging and firmware updates. There is camera-to-cloud with Adobe Frame.io plus native tethering for Capture One and Lightroom Classic. There is also a synch jack/timecode interface.

The top plate carries a small info screen plus two large dials. These actually work extremely well, the left dial controlling ISO and the right dial controlling exposure compensation. Aperture is via a thumb wheel and being able to adjust how the controls operate means matching the direction of travel of the dials with other cameras that might be owned makes for faster and more intuitive handling. There are two small buttons, the first for toggling the info screen display and the second to bring up a menu covering the white balance settings.

The OLED EVF is simply brilliant, with its 5.76M dots showing masses of detail without any strain on the eyes. Frame rate is 60fps or 120fps, so fast action can be followed. The 100% view has a magnification of 0.76x. The 3.2” tilting monitor is touch sensitive and has 2,332,800 dots.

The back of the camera is also sheer simplicity in its approach. Play, FN and Menu buttons cover most areas, plus the small joystick that is neatly tucked away at the top to avoid accidental operation. The monitor is also touch sensitive.

The large lithium ion battery is housed in the baseplate but only offers 383 shots (CIPA standards), although this is an improvement on the Leica SL3-S.

The camera may be heavy, but there is no doubting the solidity of the construction. However, ergonomically everything is well designed and the working procedures are smooth and efficient. Switching from Photo to Video gives a whole new set of parameters that are video appropriate. The camera temperature may be a limiting factor here as there is no cooling system provided.

Leica SL3-P Key Features

• L Mount
• 44.9MP BSI CMOS sensor
• 40fps with full AF
• 176MP multi-shot mode
• Maestro IV processor
• Shutter speeds 1/8000s to 60m (mechanical shutter)
• Shutter speeds 1/16000 to 30s (electronic shutter)
• 5-axis IBIS 5 stops
• Subject detection: Human eye/face/body; Human eye/face; Animal body; Animal eye/body; Car; Car parts
• ISO range 50-200,000 (Extended)
• CF Express Cards Type B (recommended)
• SD Memory Cards: UHS-II (recommended), UHS-I, SD/SDHC/SDXC
• OLED EVF 5.76M dots
• Tilt 3.2” LCD Touch screen 2,336,800 dots
• Top display 1.28” Mono LCD 128 x 128 pixels
• WiFi
• Bluetooth
• Synch jack/timecode interface
• 8K Open Gate video recording
• ProRes
• Leica Content Credentials
• Leica FOTOS App (Remote control, fast data transfer, geotagging and firmware updates)
• Leica Looks presets
• Camera-to-cloud with AdobeFrame.io
• Native tethering for Capture One and Lightroom Classic
• Operating range -10C to +40C
• 141.2 x 108.0 x 84.6mm
• 768g (no card, battery or cover)
• IP54 dust and water sealing
• Battery Leica BP-SCL6, 383 shots

Leica SL3-P Handling

There is certainly something to be said for a large, heavy camera. This does tend to equal solidity and stability and it may be easier to handhold such a camera without causing shake. The reverse of this means the irony of a small, light camera being potentially more in need of a tripod than the Leica is. Apart from the test shots and anywhere a consistent composition is needed (such as the series of bokeh shots) there seems little pressing need for carrying a tripod when travelling with the SL3-P.

The camera is a fine example of minimalism, lowering even its obvious credentials by removing the famous red spot. It must be said though that this is undone rather by emblazoning the front of the body with a large, very obvious white LEICA. Subtlety goes out of the window...No matter, nobody commented unless they were just pretending not to notice.

The various controls can be adjusted as to function, direction of travel, and thus the camera can be personalised to suit. Having done this, it really does all fit together extremely well and the ergonomics of the design are solid.

The one thing I might change is the firmness of the small joystick. It did not prove to be a problem, but its gentle resistance could be increased to bring it more into line with the other controls.

[SECTION]PERFORMANCE[/SECTION]

Leica SL3-P Performance

The performance section is where we look at the image quality performance of the camera. Additional sample photos and product shots are available in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own review, photos and product ratings.
 

Leica SL3-P Sample Photos

Lens Performance – The lens provided for this review was the Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH and the full review can be found here. The lens was a superb performer, summarised below:

At 24mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/11, very good at f/16 and good at f/22. The edges are very good from f/2.8 to f/11, good at f/16 and fair at f/22.

At 50mm, central sharpness is outstanding from f/2.8 to f/5.6. Excellent at f/8 and f/11, very good at f/16 and good at f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/11, very good at f/16 and good at f/22.

At 70mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/11, rising to outstanding at f/5.6, very good at f/16 and good at f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22.

Wide open, close up flat subjects such as text do suffer a lack of sharpness at the edges, but stopped down this soon clears and the results become crisp. 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is not a problem and there is virtually no sign of colour fringing. 

Distortion is virtually zero. We measure this to two decimal places, and at 24mm pincushion distortion yields a result of just +0.01%. At 50mm and 70mm, the result is actually zero. Clearly the lens is very suitable for architectural photography.

Bokeh is smooth and satisfying. The out of focus areas make a beautiful backdrop, especially for portraits and flower studies.

Flare is minimal, with no sign of artefacts even in the most severe lighting conditions.

Leica SL3-P ISO test images

ISO Performance – Noise levels become lower and lower and the freedom this gives the photographer is a powerful tool. Coupled with image stabilisation, there are many situations where the tripod can almost be banished into the realms of history. Up to ISO 1600 images are clean. ISO 3200 to 12500 are showing slight noise levels but are very usable. Above that, the darker areas of an image merge more and more into the background noise and these highest settings are only really suitable for emergency use. A noisy but sharp image may still be preferable to a low noise mushy effect.

Leica SL3-P White-balance test images

White Balance – There are various white balance presets. On offer are AWB, Daylight, Cloudy, Shadow, Tungsten, HMI, Fluorescent warm, Fluorescent cool, Flash, Greycard Pipette, Grey Card and Manual K setting. All the settings can be tweaked to taste. HMI refers to a specific range of continuous lighting and there is merit in the idea of having this very specific white balance available as a preset. Daylight and Cloudy are useful to preserve unusual lighting effects, the latter especially attractive when warming portraits. The shade setting is ideal for those hunting fungi in dark woodland, thus avoiding the usual purple cast that can be found. All the white balance presets seem to be on the warm side, giving an attractive look to images.

Leica SL3-P Digital filters

Digital Filters – There are few options provided in terms of digital filters, being restricted to a selection of film styles: standard, vivid, natural and monochrome. We can now add to this Leica Looks, a selection of image style "recipes" that can be downloaded via the Leica FOTOS App.

Video –  The list of video specs is long, but the basics are:

• 8K Open Gate recording in 3:2 native format
• Vertical formats
• 5.9K 60p
• 4K 120p
• HDMI 2.1 Type A
• USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C
• Synch jack/timecode interface
• Audio output/input 3.5mm jack
• ISO accessory shoe
• Video formats:     MP4 h.265 AAC 48kHz/16-bit

                                                 MP4 h.264 AAC 48kHz/16-bit

• Video colour space: Rec 709/Rec 2020 (HLG/L-Log)

Whilst clearly being video capable, there is no cooling system in the camera, so recording times may be relatively limited to 25 minutes or so.

[SECTION]VERDICT[/SECTION]

Value For Money

The [AMUK]Leica SL3-P|Leica+SL3-P[/AMUK] is priced at £5150, body only. There are three kit options:

• with 24-70mm, £6480
• with 24-70mm and 70-200mm, £8560
• with 28-70mm, £6100

Competitive mirrorless cameras include:

• [AMUK]Leica SL3|Leica+SL3[/AMUK], £5920
• [AMUK]Leica SL3-S|Leica+SL3-S[/AMUK], £4500
• [AMUK]Nikon Z8|Nikon+Z8[/AMUK], £2749
• [AMUK]Nikon Z9|Nikon+Z9[/AMUK], £4399
• [AMUK]Sony A7 V|Sony+A7+V[/AMUK], £2799
• [AMUK]Sony A1 II|Sony+A1+II[/AMUK], £5699
• [AMUK]Sony A9 III|Sony+A9+III[/AMUK], £5699

Value at these levels is all about perceptions and whether or not a camera fulfils its desired function. If used professionally, then differences in price will soon be forgotten as the kit earns its living.

Leica SL3-P Verdict

With its generous 44.9MP sensor, fast operation and encouraging video capability, the Leica SL3-P has much to offer both stills photographers and videographers. There is no doubting Leica's ability to manufacture cameras and lenses of the highest calibre and the expertise as regards the electronics has been equally well mastered. The best of the SL3-P can be realised using the Leica FOTOS App, a sign of the times, but a direction that offers continuing cutting-edge capability.

The price is of course high, but in fact other marques are now pricing their own high end kit at similar levels, so the Leica becomes more affordable compared to its peers. It may be big, it may be heavy but it has many attractive design details that make the Leica experience a very satisfying one. It can be Highly Recommended.

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=4|R_performance=5|R_value=4|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Leica quality with fast and responsive operation for both stills and video.|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

View the Leica SL3-P camera specs in the equipment database.

Photo by Joshua Waller

1. Start With The Basics

Once you get your camera out of its bag it's easy to keep clicking the shutter button and forget you need to check backgrounds, subject position etc. Always look for shooting locations where the background isn't full of distracting objects that clutter the scene and where possible, put some distance between your subject and the background. This will not only add depth but it'll also make it easier to throw the background out of focus. If you're using a compact this can be done via Portrait mode. For those with more advanced cameras, this means choosing a wider aperture. It's also important to focus on your subject's eyes and even if you're shooting a friend or family member, don't forget to keep giving direction.
 

2. Natural Light Is Free

Where possible it's best to avoid using your camera's built-in flash for portraits as most of the time, the results won't be very professional-looking. Instead, make the most of window light which will help you create portraits to be proud of. North facing windows are perfect but you can use any that aren't in the direct path of the sun. Overcast days are great for this as light is naturally diffused but you can get a similar effect by hanging voile or something similar. 

If your house lights are on, switch them off and do clean the window before you begin!

A reflector will come in handy for adding light to the side of your model's face not next to the window, balancing the exposure in the process. You can buy reflectors but they can just as easily be created from a piece of white card, foil etc.

Try spot metering off your model's face then have fun experimenting with composition. Tight crops on the face work well but do try using the window to help frame a couple of your shots. 
 

3. Want More Impact?

Full-length portraits work well but for something that has more 'Pow' behind it, move in close. If your subject and yourself are comfortable doing so this could mean physically moving closer together or reach for a longer zoom lens if your model feels more comfortable with a wider working distance. Something around the 85-135mm mark is a popular choice for headshots but do be careful with your shutter speeds when using longer lenses if working hand-held.

Photo by Joshua Waller
 

4. Don't Want To Give So Much Direction?

The simple answer is to try a candid approach and shoot often so you don't miss any moments.

Try using a wider lens when working outdoors or at busy events such as a wedding as people won't think you're taking their photo if the lens isn't directly pointed at them so will stay relaxed. Longer lenses will allow you to stay out of sight but still give you the chance to focus on one or two individuals. For compact users, why not switch to P mode so you can focus on getting the shot rather than on what settings you need.

If you're working with children you could give them a task to do such as build a tower with bricks or kick a ball around outside to give you the opportunity to shoot some fun, in-the-moment photos which they won't even notice you're doing as they'll be too distracted with the task in-hand.
 

5. Get Creative

Whether it's adding fun props, creating interesting backgrounds with bokeh or using art filter and frames, there's plenty of ways to get creative with your portraits. Many cameras feature Art Filters which will give your portraits a twist. This could be adding a vignette, changing the images to black and white or simply adding a sepia tone and grain to give it a vintage feel. 

To have fun with bokeh you can head out at night or use some colourful stringed lights (the type you dig out of the loft at Christmas) and drape them over a dark background. You then need to put a few meters between the background and your subject to increase the bokeh effect.

You need to use your lens at its widest aperture and focus on your subject. A small portable light is handy for illuminating the front of your subject but do be careful with the positioning of the light as you don't want any light to shine on the background. Watch your white balance then experiment with framing to change the pattern created by the lights in the background. 
 

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Landscapes taken in colour are great but if you convert or shoot your landscapes in mono, textures shapes, patterns etc. appear more prominently and have a stronger impact on the viewer. Mono's not something that works for every shot, as we'll explain alongside a few other tips that'll help make your mono work shine.

1. Depth Of Field

As with all landscape subjects, before taking your shot, know if you want a shallow or wide depth of field. Wider is good when you have several points of interest throughout the image as you need everything in the frame to be sharp.

2. In-Camera Or Conversion?

It is up to you whether you shoot black & white in-camera or make your mono conversions on the computer when you're back home. Just remember if you shoot monochrome Jpegs you won't be able to get the colour back later if you don't like the black & white shot so it's worth considering shooting in raw which takes us nicely onto point 3.

3. Consider Using Raw

Switching to raw from Jpeg will increase the range of tones recorded, plus you can rescue more detail from an under- or overexposed shot when you open a raw file up on your computer.

4. Composition & Shapes

Clean, simple composition is the way to go when you're working in monochrome as the conversion of tones from colour to black & white don't always stand out as well and it can be hard to distinguish between different parts of the shot. If you don't use strong structures and familiar shapes such as trees, rocks and architecture, your shot can lose impact and as a result, not be as interesting.
 

5. Patterns & Lines

Look for repetitive patterns and strong lines that can help draw people into the image while strong foreground interest and lead-in lines will further help guide the eye from the front to the back of your shot.

6. Colour & Tones

Do remember that some tones which can easily be picked out when you're working in colour, such as light blues and yellows, will look almost the same when you convert them to monochrome.

7. Cloud Detail

Skies dotted with white clouds are perfect for black & white landscapes as the contrast between the white clouds and what turns into a dark grey or even black sky creates plenty of mood.

8.Time Of Day

Although black & white shots are slightly more forgiving than coloured shots when it comes to shooting closer to midday, the best time of day to shoot is either is just after dawn or before dusk, to get low angled glancing light. An hour or two before sunset when the sun is slightly lower in the sky will give more definition to the shapes that sit in your foreground.

9. Get The Exposure Right

Keep an eye on your meter readings as it's easy to over- / underexpose the shot, losing the mood and detail you're looking for as a result. Your histogram can be a useful tool if you find it tricky to see if a shot is under or overexposed. It's worth turning on your camera's highlight warning option, too so you can see if any areas of your shot are 'blinking' and as a result, you'll know you need to adjust your exposure.

10. Editing Images

Thanks to the digital age, tweaking images so they're a little darker or lighter in places is something we can all do. To add more contrast to your monochrome images make a simple S-Curve adjustment or try to adjust colours individually so you can, for example, darken the blue of the sky but make the grass slightly lighter. Another way to adjust the shadows/highlights in your shot is with the Dodge and Burn tools. The Dodge tool will lighten parts of the image while the Burn tool will darken the shot. You use them just as you do the Paintbrush tool, changing the brushes' strength, opacity and size as needed. Work slowly with these brushes as if you're too heavy-handed the results can be a little too strong.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The Excire Foto 2027 interface is dominated by the central area to show off your images in Gallery view shown here. There is also a new feature called Survey view which shows selected images in an uncluttered environment.

It doesn’t matter if you're a photo enthusiast or a working professional, your photographs are invaluable and you should take care of them. Part and parcel of this process is rating, filing and culling your output and any software that helps you do this with greater efficiency and minimal stress is worth knowing.

We tested the award-winning Excire Foto 2025 recently and were impressed by its skills. Uniquely, it uses AI technology to analyze, rate and automatically keyword images and boasts a host of powerful search tools. Check out that review here. It’s a standalone app and for those using Adobe’s Lightroom Classic there is the option of Excire Search 2026 which works as a plug-in. 

The big news is the arrival of Excire’s Foto 2027, a software available for Mac and Windows that includes the core capabilities of Excire Foto 2025 but has added even more ways of searching for images and gives an even better user experience.

Excire Foto 2027 is available at a special launch price of £199 / $219 with the standard price being £229 / $249.

Excire Foto 2027 is the new kid on the block but that doesn’t mean Foto 2025 has gone. It remains available at the lower price of £159 for an outright purchase which is good value. So, for example, if you don’t need Map view or text search in Foto 2027 you could save yourself money by buying the older software which we know to be a very capable program that works quickly and has excellent search skills.

However, if Excire Foto 2027 appeals, try it before buying; it’s available on a free 14-day trial.

The interface’s top section has a new look in Excire Foto 2027. There’s a content search bar with the options of searching by text in photos, content or metadata. There’s also a timeline graph – the blue columns here.

Excire Foto 2027 Getting started 

Open Excire Foto 2027 and you are greeted with an interface dominated by a large central area to view images or the map in Map view. This is surrounded by tools and icons but the interface is not as daunting as it is in some apps, probably because Excire has no image editing skills so there’s less to fit in.

You can’t enjoy the benefits of Excire Foto 2027 until your images are initialised which means images are analyzed by AI and keywords and aesthetic ratings are applied.

With Excire Foto 2027 open, go to File>Add folders or use the + symbol in the top left of the interface and that brings up the Add Folder dialogue box with options including Analyze photos and Include Subfolders. 

With a big collection of images, the initialisation process takes time and Excire suggests running the process overnight. That is advice worth heeding especially as you can’t do much in the software while images are being processed. You could of course have initialisation running in the background while you’re working in other apps. 

With the amount of time needed to initialise images I did it in stages. In one session, 127,614 photos took 31 seconds shy of 12 hours. This is a once-only process so once you have initialised your archive adding new images is much quicker. For example, a day’s shoot of 3884 images took just under 16 minutes.

One thing you need to do at the beginning is select a hard drive for Excire’s database. The options come up under File>Open database>Create Folder for new database. The database will grow as images are added so you need a decent amount of hard drive capacity. During this test my database grew to 439,357 images and that took up 108GB. 

You can have more than one database. For example, have one for personal images and another for commissioned work. In my test, I had one big database, and the software was always quick at producing previews with no time lost waiting for previews to sharpen up or even appear, which happens with large Lightroom Classic catalogues.

In my workflow, I store catalogues on an external 2TB NVMe SSD drive in a fan-cooled enclosure connected to the computer’s Thunderbolt 4 port. For this test, I used a M2 Max Mac Studio 32GB RAM running Tahoe 26.2.

Survey view can show from a single or several frames to many images. I selected 150 images and I got a view of 103 thumbnails on my 32in screen (right) with the remainder in a queue. If you have several images on show, the remaining previews grow larger as images are rejected.

Excire Foto 2027 Key Features

• One-off purchase, no subscription option
• Selection of search tools: Text in photos, text prompt, duplicate, GPS, people, faces, keyword, similar
• Survey view shows selected images against a plain black backdrop
• Organising tools: AI keywording, duplicate search, face-tagging
• Timeline viewing which goes down to days 
• AI-assisted culling 
• Focus peaking feature
• Map view for images with GPS co-ordinates
• Face-sharpness detection
• AI Aesthetic scores
• Ratings, keywords and aesthetic ratings can taken into Lightroom Classic 
• Fast preview rendering
• Raw, PSD, JPEG, TIFF files compatible with Excire Foto 2027 including large files
• Available for Mac and Windows

At a glance: Main updates in Excire Foto 2027 compared with Excire Foto 2025

• Text in photos search tool
• Map view
• Survey view for viewing images without distractions
• New Smart filter bar and Timeline Graph
• Focus peaking feature 
• Improved prompt search capabilities

New in Excire Foto 2027 is the ability to check critical using focus peaking which has an adjustable threshold. 

Excire Foto 2027 Map view

During initialisation, Excire Foto 2027 takes the GPS data from your images and places them on a map so you can see where you took pictures, how many you shot and clicking on the map point shows what you took at that spot. It’s a cool feature.

However, for this test I was stuck because only my iPhone snaps have GPS data, and I had no camera Raws with GPS co-ordinates. I downloaded the Sony Creator app to my iPhone, linked it with the camera by Bluetooth and went out and shot pictures.

Clicking on the Map view icon, which sits at the bottom left of the interface. Zooming in, I could see I had been photographing in London and the number in the single black dot showed I’d shot 491 photos. I had taken many more but for some technical reason (or user error!) the GPS data had not been recorded. This is not an Excire issue and it shows you need to get the technology set up correctly for reliable results. GPS data can be added in Excire Foto 2027’s metadata editor, which is easy to do in bulk although you won’t get street-level detail.

Zooming in much further into street view and the single black blob became many more and I could see how many shots I had taken and where. Location accuracy seemed pretty good although there were some inaccuracies due to GPS issues, but it was more than good enough for general location details.

I did a photo walk around London’s Covent Garden. Clicking on each map point, which shows how many were pictures were taken at that spot, changes it from black to blue and the images are shown along the bottom of the interface.

This is the maximum magnification of Excire’s map. Accuracy is pretty good but that of course depends on the GPS recording device rather than Excire.

Excire Foto 2027 Find by Text in Photos

A big new feature in Excire Foto 2027 is the ability to search by Text in Photos. If, for example, you were searching for a location you may find it, but you could be looking for a shop name, an event or a sponsor’s logo.

I went to Hong Kong last year and I know where the images are but as part of the test I tried a Text in Photos search looking for the words ‘Hong Kong’. Where text is found Excire places a yellow box over the word/s and hitting the space bar hides the yellow box. This search took a few seconds and Excire Foto 2027 found 277 images with the words ‘Hong Kong’, some were large and obvious, but many were small in the frame or even very faint thanks to poor exposure.

More randomly I tried the word ‘toilet’ and this occasion I got 26 images including the one shown below (which just happened to be in Hong Kong) and Excire Foto 2027 found it even though it was small and dark in the frame.

Searching by visible text showed itself to be a welcome addition to Excire Foto 2027’s search armoury with plenty of potential.

Searching for the words ‘Hong Kong’, Excire Foto 2027’s Text in Photos found them even when they are overexposed in the image. The inset shows how faint the original word was.

Showing what Text in Photos is capable of, a search for the word ‘toilet’ found it in this image even though it was tiny and in the shadows. The inset shows how small the original word was.

Excire Foto 2025 Find tools and the Timeline Graph

Excire Foto 2027 sees the arrival of the Timeline Graph. Checking out what you shot by date is possible with the Timeline/People icon on the left of the interface and this works down to days. The other option is to click on the Timeline Graph button in the top bar and zooming into the graph again means you can view what you shot by month, week and day.

The Find by text prompt we tested in Foto 2025 but for those who didn’t read that review (click here to see it) it’s worth a recap. Basically, when using Find by text prompt just type what you are looking for and Excire searches your database for images conforming to what you asked for. The search can be narrowed or broadened, and you can choose to limit the number of images to view.

You might search for a specific subject such as bridges, black cabs or airplanes but you can also search for photos that depict an emotion and a mood you want photos to illustrate. 

In another search, I needed some photos that showed creative use of depth-of-field, so I searched for ‘images that show the use of depth-of-field’ and in my database Excire Foto 2027 found 19,930 images in around 30 seconds, mostly showing selective focusing at wide lens apertures. You can see a sample of what was found in the screenshot below.

As with all the searches in Excire Foto 2027, the results can be rated or flagged, and searches are saved as collections that you can revisit later.

Using Text in photos, I searched for ‘images that show the use of depth-of-field’ and got 19,930, mostly viable, candidates.

Two examples of Excire Foto 2027’s automatic keywording and Aesthetic rating capabilities. It’s interesting that Excire gave the portrait of the blond model Dolly the keywords of Bride and Wedding. Incorrect in both cases but you can appreciate why those keywords were added. With Big Ben it was correctly identified.

Excire Foto 2027 Keywording and more

During the initialisation process, Excire Foto 2027 gives your shots an Aesthetic rating and adds keywords. Hit the Excire icon on the right side of the interface and you can view ratings and keywords for each image.

How deep Excire’s keywording goes depends on the subject. Often, with people shots there is much more detail with keywords so for a portrait of a woman you might get eyes open, face, female, smiling and hair colour and more. The keywords applied to an architecture shot can also be useful and might include window, skyscraper and city. You’ll probably get fewer keywords with scenic, nature and location shots although it‘s the case that famous sites and birds such as kingfishers are recognised and keyworded accurately. For example, for photos of Big Ben it was correctly keyworded and additional keywords include clock, travel, tower, sight, city and building.

Excire Foto 2027 Verdict

Excire Foto 2027 is an excellent image management program and its new headline features – Map view, Survey view and Text in photos search tool – work well and add even more functionality to what was already an awesome package. 

How you would work with Excire Foto 2027 is obviously your call but having one huge database with powerful search tools is a seriously big benefit that could save you a lot of time. The same applies to Excire’s ability to efficiently rate and cull shoots before taking the ‘keepers’ into Lightroom or any other post-processing program for editing. 

For busy image creators, Excire Foto 2027 is definitely worth serious consideration.

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Fast, easy to use and offering plenty of search methods, Excire Foto 2027 is a powerful workflow software with much to recommend it.|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

Peak District Inversion, a stunning photograph by edrhodes, capturing a mist-filled valley at sunrise, has taken our Photo of the Week award.

There is plenty to admire in this image. A bare tree sits on the steep, grassy ridge up front. Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill stand above the blanket of low-lying cloud. The golden light of the sun just coming over the peaks creates a nice contrast with the darker clouds above and the cooler mist below, giving a calm morning atmosphere.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

We have for review two exciting Leica products that can be bought as a kit or separately. The Leica SL3-P brings a hybrid stills/video offering to the table, and the Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 Asph completes the picture. First, the lens, with the camera review hot on its heels as I write. A Leica quality standard zoom lens that pushes the wide angle to a very useful 24mm is a very attractive proposition. Couple that up with the 44.9MP Leica SL3-P body as a package that is equally at home with stills and video and this looks to be an exciting voyage of discovery indeed. Let's get straight to it and see how it all works out.

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH Handling and Features

The lens looks big and chunky, weighing in at a solid 856g without the hood, and 906g with the metal hood. No hood was provided with the loan sample but one should be expected in the box when purchased. Some lenses still perform well without a hood, but it's always a good idea to use one even if only to protect the front of the lens from impact damage. Dimensions are 123mm x 88mm. The illusion of size is probably partially caused by the large, chunky lettering.

Starting our tour of the lens, within the bayonet fit for the hood is a conventional 82mm filter thread. Just behind this is the focusing ring, electronic and absolutely as smooth as silk. AF is driven by a very fast and virtually silent stepping motor, and focusing speed is aided by just one element being moved during the AF process. Closest focus at 24mm is 18cm, for a maximum magnification of 1:2.9; at 70mm this becomes 38cm for a maximum magnification of 1:4.5. It is a pity that the greatest magnification is found at the widest setting as this means an uncomfortably close working distance that can make lighting the subject more difficult.

Optical construction is 19 elements in 15 groups, with a total of 6 aspherical surfaces, plus elements with anomalous partial dispersion. The diaphragm comprises 11 blades, aiming to improve the bokeh. The lens as a whole is dust and splash water sealed, something that is by now almost a requirement for any lens intended to be seriously used outdoors.

The lens description follows and then the boldly labelled zoom ring. There are accurate markings provided at 24mm, 35mm, 50mm and 70mm. The zoom action physically moves the lens, so although smooth, it does need more effort to move as it extends the length.

Finally, the metal L mount fits positively on to the Leica SL3-P camera body and there are no glitches either in terms of mechanical fit or in terms of electronic communication.

Just about the only handling caveat is that of weight and bulk. Metal and glass equals heavy lenses and camera bodies, and Leica does not shy away from the consequences. However, this is accompanied by finesse in quality, so the operation of all controls is smooth and slick. It is also a million miles away from the diminutive form factor of, say, an M series rangefinder. The Leica name in itself demands something special, so let's have a look at the performance and see if this expectation is borne out in practice.

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH Performance

At 24mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/11, very good at f/16 and good at f/22. The edges are very good from f/2.8 to f/11, good at f/16 and fair at f/22.

At 50mm, central sharpness is outstanding from f/2.8 to f/5.6. Excellent at f/8 and f/11, very good at f/16 and good at f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/11, very good at f/16 and good at f/22.

At 70mm, central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/11, rising to outstanding at f/5.6, very good at f/16 and good at f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22.

Wide open, close up flat subjects such as text do suffer a lack of sharpness at the edges, but stopped down this soon clears and the results become crisp.

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70 f/2.8 ASPH. MTF Charts

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is not a problem and there is virtually no sign of colour fringing.

Distortion is virtually zero. We measure this to two decimal places, and at 24mm pincushion distortion yields a result of just +0.01%. At 50mm and 70mm, the result is actually zero. Clearly the lens is very suitable for architectural photography.

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70 f/2.8 ASPH. Chromatic Aberration Charts

Bokeh is smooth and satisfying. The out of focus areas make a beautiful backdrop, especially for portraits and flower studies.

Flare is minimal, with no sign of artefacts even in the most severe lighting conditions.

Vignetting is very modest for such a zoom lens.

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70 f/2.8 ASPH. Sample Photos

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70 f/2.8 ASPH. Aperture range

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH|Leica+Vario-Elmarit-SL+24-70mm+f/2.8+ASPH[/AMUK] is priced at £2590

Possible alternatives in L mount:

• [AMUK]Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 ASPH|Leica+Vario-Elmarit-SL+28-70mm+f/2.8+ASPH[/AMUK], £1750
• [AMUK]Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-90mm f/2.8-4 ASPH|Leica+Vario-Elmarit-SL+24-90mm+f/2.8-4+ASPH[/AMUK], £4900
• [AMUK]Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN II Art|Sigma+24-70mm+f/2.8+DG+DN+II+Art[/AMUK], £1129

Certainly in terms of bald cost, the Sigma lens looks rather attractive, but the solidity of the Leica version and the match with the Leica camera bodies will for many be a major consideration. This is an area where “want” and “need” may be poles apart.

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH Verdict

What price quality and what price that revered Leica name? Frankly, if we can afford the Leica camera body, then it is to be hoped that we can also afford the Leica lens to match its style, its quality and its performance. There is no doubt that the Leica lens plus the Leica SL3-P body sent for review match each other beautifully, producing exciting quality images that do “sing” and are an aesthetic pleasure. However, realistically, some will find the Leica too bulky and too heavy and exciting images can be produced by much less expensive kit. It is about perceptions, and about the enjoyment and satisfaction that can be felt when using cameras and lenses that gel with the photographer/videographer.

Price aside, the lens is a joy to use and the results are great. It is Highly Recommended.

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=5|R_value=4|R_overall=4|A_level=4.5|A_text=Highly Recommended – A beautiful standard zoom lens that gives beautiful results.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

1. What Gear Do I Need?

A wide-angle lens will help you make the most of big, interesting skies. Just keep an eye on what's creeping in at the edges of the shots as the wide view can mean less interesting parts of the sky end up in the frame. Pack tripod in the car and pocket an ND Grad to help you capture a more balanced exposure and a solid ND filter for when you're just shooting the sky.

2. Look At The Sky Before You Take Your Shot

If the sky's boring and flat don't let it dominate the scene. Instead, move the horizon up slightly so you have more foreground interest. For times when the sky really does sing do the opposite and move the horizon down, cutting more of the foreground out so all attention falls on the clouds, sunset colours or whatever other feature makes the sky stand out.

3. Get The Exposure Right

Getting the exposure right can be a little tricky due to the differences in contrast between the sky and ground. It could even be the ground that's a lot lighter than the ground, rather than the usual bright sky syndrome many people usually have to face. This will happen when there's a storm brewing or just after the rain's stopped falling.

When it comes to metering, most of the time you just need to focus on the highlighted areas of the image (which is usually the sky) and the darker areas will sort themselves out. However, if you find the foreground ends up too dark use exposure compensation to increase the exposure by one stop.

4. Tips On Using Filters

If you find the sky's still a little too bright fit a Graduated Neutral Density filter to even out the exposure. If it's the ground that's too light try rotating the filter so the dark part of the graduation sits over the ground.

5. Use Clouds In Your Shots

If you have a sky full of interesting cloud formations the key is to make sure the clouds aren't too bright. Check your histogram if you're unsure. Make sure you're ready to shoot an interesting formation as soon as you see it as they change shape quickly and if the clouds are rather breath-taking remember to lose some of the ground to make the sky your focus.

Blurring the movement of the clouds is an interesting effect that can also help create leading lines to guide the eye through the photograph. If you're shooting on a bright-ish day you'll need to fit an ND filter so you can use the slower shutter speeds without too much light reaching the sensor.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to snursey (Day 24 - 'Portrait Landscape').

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

Day 16

Interesting Angles

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Day 17

Waterfall Close-Ups

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Day 18

Close-Up Faces

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Day 19

Stone Circles

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Day 20

Repetitive Patterns

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Day 22

Carnival Photography

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Day 23

Sunsets By The Sea

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Historical ruins such as churches, castles and abbeys decorate our countryside and seaside towns but you'll also find a few smaller, but still impressive ruins closer to home. Walls, arches and columns are still dotted around a few towns and villages which are still photogenic even if there's not much of the structure left to photograph. If you're off on your travels, have a look online and at local tourism centres to find out what ruins are near to where you're staying.

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

For general shots of the building and the surroundings you'll need a wide-angle lens but take your longer zoom along too for getting in close to interesting architectural detail. A tripod's handy but if you want to travel light, try taking something smaller such as a tabletop tripod and use a wall to help you steady your shot. If there are any windows left in your building of choice a polarizer will reduce reflections and the blue of the sky will be enhanced giving your image more contrast.

2. Do Your Homework

Many of our abbeys and other ruins are now looked after by the National Trust or English Heritage so you could be charged to walk around them, they'll have specific opening times and there may be restrictions if you want to use your images commercially so it's worth a quick look on the internet or a chat on the phone to find out everything you need to know. That way you won't waste your petrol money.

3. Take A Walk

The first thing you should do when you arrive is stretch your legs on a walk around the ruin. This will give you the chance to scout for interesting detail and look for the best angle. Don't just stand and photograph the first pile of rubble you see as this won't give your viewer any clue into what the building is or what it was used for. Look for areas that have a more definite shape and if you can, parts where nature hasn't completely taken over. Of course, some walls look great with roots growing through them and it can really emphasise how ruined the building is, so keep that in mind.

4. Look Closer

Look for unique parts that make the building stand out from any other and if the outside isn't very interesting you could always take a peek inside to see if the hidden details give more of an idea of what the function of the building was. If the building still has an inside watch your exposures and check your histogram before you move on to make sure it's OK. Try shooting inside out through a broken window or use a long corridor to lead the viewer's eye through the image.

Signs are a direct way to explain more about the building you're photographing and they can often be quite interesting in their own right with features such as peeling paint and rusty bolts worthy of a quick photograph.

5. Tall And Wide

If you're working with a particularly tall building converging verticals may be a problem but by shooting from a height this can easily be rectified. Steps, hills or shooting from another building are all ways you can correct the distortion or you could try stepping further back which gives you the opportunity to use the surroundings to give the building context.

If the grounds really do add to your image try shooting a panorama. Some cameras come with this function built-in but if yours doesn't just shoot several images moving from right to left or left to right and stitch them together with specifically designed software when you get back to your computer.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

1. Heading To The Beach?

A popular destination when on your travels abroad or even just for the weekend when the sun's showing its face in the UK is the beach which is full of photographic potential. Even though you may enjoy yourself by the sea it's not a place that's great for your camera and other photography gear. Grains of sand can get into parts of your camera it shouldn't be in and it can scratch your lens if you're not careful. A UV filter will help stop sand scratching your lens and is a less expensive option than replacing your glass. When you're not using your kit, make sure you store it in your camera bag and if you want to change lenses, try and do it off the beach and out of the wind.

If you're planning on taking a tripod and use it in the sea, make sure you wipe it down when you get home and leave it to dry. A lens cloth can also be handy for wiping sea spray off your gear.

2. Check Temperatures

If you're venturing somewhere that's going to be particularly hot then make sure your camera equipment (memory cards, batteries etc.) will operate to the best of their ability still. You can usually find information on operational limits of specific products on manufacturers' websites and in manuals.

3. Going Inside And Out

An air-conditioned room or vehicle may be good for you to cool down in but if you have your camera out and take it from a cool to warm environment you'll end up with a fogged-up lens as condensation will have formed. Either ensure your gear's in your bag or just wait five or ten minutes for the lens to clear. You can wipe the lens with a lens cloth, but this could cause smears and marks that'll spoil your shot so look at your lens carefully before hitting the shutter button. If moisture gets inside your lens, ensure the outside of it is dry then leave the lens to dry out before using it.

4. Think About You

As well as looking after your gear, don't forget to look after yourself. It may seem obvious now, but it's easy to get away with taking photos and the small things such as reapplying sunscreen and having a drink of water can be forgotten.

5. Viewing Screens

Previewing your shot on your camera's LCD screen can be difficult when outdoors in sunny conditions. You can adjust the brightness of most screens, but this doesn't always solve the problem. You can use LCD hoods (flip-up caps) that shade screens from glare and as an additional benefit, they also protect the screen too.

6. Avoid Hot Parts Of The Day

Again, seems obvious and it's not always easy to do as you could be on an organised excursion, for example. However, getting up early or staying out later does have it's advantages as the light's usually better and you'll be able to avoid crowds at busy tourist sites. Don't forget your lens hood if you're heading out during the day as they can help reduce the amount of light reaching your lens.

7. Find Some Shade

Ideally, you should not take photographs when the sun is too high in the sky, particularly for portraits as people can end up with deep shadows under their eyes and nose. If your subject's wearing a floppy hat this will shade the face, and help create the shade you need. If not, find a shaded area that won't cause the light to appear dappled. Instead, find a shaded spot where the light's more even and they won't end up squinting.

If you're photographing a family member or a stranger who's given you permission to shoot, you can try using flash to add extra light that'll even out your scene. A touch of flash will also help create catchlights in your subject's eyes but it's much easier to just position your subject so they're facing the light source and/or use a reflector to bounce the light into your shot.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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Orientation names suggest that landscapes should be landscape format and portraits should be portrait format and even though there are times when the subject will dictate the orientation, there are scenes where switching to portrait will benefit the shot. 

Landscapes are very different when they are upright; they have much more depth and tend to emphasise the contrast between foreground and background.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Summer has finally landed here in the UK (we hope we've not spoken too soon) and that means many will be heading for the beach. If your camera will be packed along with the buckets, spades and sunblock, take a look at these 5 tips so your shots of the beach look as good as the real thing.

1. Switch From Auto Mode

When shooting with Auto you may find your beach scenes look a little darker than you expected and that's because your camera is seeing the light coloured sand and is confusing it for a scene that's bright. As a result, it's adjusting the exposure accordingly and the sand appears dark when you preview the image.

Do make sure other areas of the shot aren't overexposed when you make your adjustment. Some camera models allow you to check for under- / over-exposed parts of the image on the display (these generally appear as coloured blinking areas). You can also use the built-in histogram to see if any peaks are to the far ends of the graph.

If you can manually control the exposure use exposure compensation and set a + figure as this should give you an image that's more true to life. You can also use the Beach and Snow setting and the camera will automatically make adjustments.

2. Send A Digital 'Postcards'

Postcards are great but they can take forever to reach their recipient, plus they're not all that personal. Instead, why not make use of technology and send snaps of your trip straight to friends and family instead? Many compacts now have built-in WI-FI capabilities so users can either send photos straight to their smartphones which can then be shared with family and friends or some brands allow you to download apps to your camera so you can link directly to Facebook etc. to share your images with the world at the touch of a button. For those with compacts that don't have WI-FI built-in, you can purchase an EyeFi card which will quickly and reliably transfer your pro images to your computer, smartphone or tablet devices.

3. Use Beach & Sea Ready Cameras

Many cameras are now designed with coastal locations in mind. Some compacts are water-, shock-, crush- and cold-proof. Having said that, it's still worth giving your equipment a wipe down after a day of photography on the beach to remove any salt residue present. By using a 'tough' camera you'll be able to capture a few holiday/beach shots for the album that have a slightly different angle. Try capturing underwater shots or how about a half-and-half image that shows what's both under and above the waves? 

4. Boost Colours Of Sunsets & Sunrises

Depending on your location you may have the chance to capture a sunrise or sunset. These subjects are techniques all of their own but we will say that a quick way to give your shots more impact is by adjusting the white balance setting on your camera. Try the cloudy setting if you want colours to be more vibrant while compact users can put the sunset mode to the test.

5. Go For A Different Angle

Busy shots of sand-castle building action and donkey rides are great for the family album but for something a little different, why not have a go at macro photography or shoot some abstracts? If you don't have a small tripod or bean bag, use your camera bag or even a rolled-up towel for support and get down in the sand to capture the best angles. Zoom in close and use the built-in macro mode (usually a flower symbol) so the camera knows you want to use a wide aperture to throw backgrounds out of focus. Back on your feet, walk to the water's edge and instead of shooting out to sea, turn around and shoot what's behind you. People can often forget to do this when they get sucked in by the view that's out to sea and in front of them.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Carnival and festival season is once again upon us and these events give photographers great opportunities to photograph colourful, vibrant and exciting shots.

1. What Gear Do I Need:

• A compact with a longer zoom will fit easily in your pocket when moving around the busy streets or pack a DSLR combined with a zoom lens.
• Zoom lens, with a good range – means you can photograph people without getting in their faces and capture a few wide shots of the whole parade. It also means you're not carrying several lenses with you all day which can get tiring.
• Camera Bag – Don't take anything too big as it will just get in the way and make sure you have it with you at all times. You don't want to create a security threat and you don't want anyone to steal your stuff either.
• Memory – Pack spare memory cards and plenty of them. You can end up taking lots and lots of shots at events like these. It doesn't hurt to carry spare batteries, too.
• Support – There won't be room for a tripod so if you really do want some extra support take a monopod with you. Although, at big carnivals such as Notting Hill there may not be the space for one and you can end up getting in the way.

2. Elbow Room

If you have lots of space to work in without others pushing you or getting in your shot you're very lucky. You can try to arrive very, very early to get a spot at the front of the curb and just be ready for the pushes who try to steal your spot. By arriving early, it also gives you the chance to scout around the parade route to see if you can find the participants setting up. If you do find them, it'll give you a chance to shoot a few portraits before the crowds arrive. Don't be afraid to ask people if you can shoot a few portraits as the majority of them will be happy to stop what they're doing for you and as the parade still hasn't started at that point, their hair and make-up should be perfect, too. If you don't fancy the elbow fight, try and find a spot that gives you a little height over the crowd. This could be steps leading up to a doorway or something in the street you can stand on. Either way, you'll be able to stay in this one location, photographing the parade as it passes without others knocking you or getting in your shot.

3. Light Problems

Your kit won't like soggy, wet days but bright, sunlight won't do you any favours either as you can end up with shots full of harsh shadows and washed-out colours. Couple with those exposure problems and you can find yourself fighting to get a decent shot. Later in the afternoon the light's lower and more even but the buildings which often run along the sides of the streets the parade makes its way around will start to leave long shadows. If you have exposure problems try bracketing and add a pop of flash to fill in shadows that dance across the faces of those involved in the parade. This works particularly well when they're wearing hats and large headpieces that shade the face.

4. Don't Miss The Action 

There will be a lot of movement for you to capture and if you want to freeze the dancers in your frame you'll need a quick shutter speed. If you want to be more creative, use slower shutter speeds to blur their movements so the speed they're moving at is exaggerated.

5. Wide Shots

Wider shots, showing the crowds, street, stalls and parade can be interesting but try not to overrun your shot with too many focal points. If the eye doesn't have something to focus on the shot can be rather confusing and look too busy.

6. Detail

Costumes often take hours if not days to put together so take the time to focus in on the colours and decorations on them. These close up shots work well when positioned against larger shots of the parade.

7. Street Candids

Try shooting from the hip to see what shots of the crowd you can capture and don't forget about the food stalls, merchandise booths and even the long, long queues for the toilets which all help you create a great, overall account of the carnival.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

A lovely shot of a cuckoo in flight has picked up the POTW accolade this week.

The image, taken by ePz member Nick_w, is titled 'Cuckoo Calling', and the timing on it is great. Wings fully up, tail fanned right out, you get a proper look at all that barring and the white tail spots. It's even got something caught in its beak, along with a blade of grass, which adds another point of interest to the shot.

The plain, soft background really helps too, with nothing to compete with the bird. Its bright orange eye and orange feet stand out against the grey plumage, while the sharp detail makes this an impressive image. Cuckoos are not the easiest birds to photograph in flight, making this a well-earned POTW winner.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

Photography has a fantastic ability to isolate things: details, shapes, colours or patterns. You can remove a subject from its distracting surroundings in just the same way that you can place it there; by thoughtful framing. During your travels see if you can find patterns in the places you visit that will remind you of the trip later.

1. Gear Choices

There is no special equipment needed to photograph pattern, though standard and slightly longer lenses can make the framing easier, but you do need to look carefully at what you are shooting. Very long lenses are also useful since they will flatten the perspective of distant shapes which often uncovers the patterns they make. Try and fill the frame aligning the pattern carefully. A tripod makes this easier but is not essential. You can crop out distractions later, but it is better to get it right ‘in camera’.

2. Patterns Are Everywhere

Patterns can be quite addictive: once you start seeing them it is hard to stop. Look for quantities of a single item and see how they fit together, regularly or random. In nature, this could be stones on a beach or marks in the sand, clouds or a flock of birds, even the leaves on a tree. In towns, look along streets at how the buildings fit together, sometimes just the steps leading to the door of a building make a good pattern.

Markets and Souvenir Shops are great places to find patterns: stockpiled high or artfully displayed is a gift to a photographer. Whether it is tourist tat or delicious-looking local produce it is likely to work as both a reminder of your holiday and an interesting composition. Look out especially for shops selling lots of versions of a similar thing; they often fit together really nicely. Don’t be afraid to get right in close.

Buildings and architecture by their very nature are full of patterns, but look beyond the obvious: bricks and tiles work, but so do whole buildings if viewed from the right angle. If you can get above the roof level of a town the rooftops will often make beautiful patterns. The great thing about patterns is that they do not have a particular scale; they can be vast or macro, but to make a good picture out of a pattern, the pattern needs to be the star.

3. How To Capture Patterns Successfully

There are no rules other than that you should crop tight to fill the frame. You may like to avoid irregularities (though I rather like them since they seem to emphasize the pattern). You can shoot square on or oblique and, if you are shooting oblique, you can shoot wide open to isolate a detail in the shot or stop down to keep it all sharp, so set the camera to aperture priority to make life easier. Whatever you choose make it a definite choice, very narrow depth of field or very deep, otherwise, it won’t look intentional.

You will generally only need to add a little extra contrast to emphasize the pattern, this can be achieved with a simple curves adjustment. But the graphic nature of patterns means that they are often ideally suited to image manipulation if you want to.

Even the most mundane subject can give you a good picture; you just need enough of it to make a strong pattern.

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Always an interesting subject for photographers, standing stones and stone circles have fascinated people for centuries; but what is the best way to photograph them?

1. Lens Choice

Use a wider angle lens 16-20mm (about 24-30mm in 35mm terms)
 

2. Focus On Parts Of The Circle

Try isolating two or three of the stones and shoot from a low angle.

3. Get Up High

Find a vantage point at a distance where you can shoot the entire ring from a higher point to show its shape.
 

4. Check The Weather 

Shoot on a bright day for contrast and texture in the stones, but watch for shadows.
 

5. Get Down Low

Shoot from a low viewpoint to make the stones appear large and dominating.

6. Go Mono

Try switching to black & white or shoot in infrared for a more moody result.
 

7. Use Filters

Use a polariser to darken the blue sky to give the shot more impact.
 

8. Try HDR

Bracket the exposure and merge using HDR technique rather than using a graduated filter as the filter will darken the top half of the stone.
 

9. No People

Avoid shots with people if you don't want to date the photograph.
 

10. Create Scale

Include people if you want to show a sense of scale.

11. Look For Angles

Walk around a few times without taking pictures to get a feeling for the stones and the best angles.
 

12. Early Or Late?

Light is usually better at the start or towards the end of the day, however as fewer people prefer early starts, photographers tend to have to get up early if they want to capture people-free shots.
 

13. Think About The Sky

If you're trying to capture the whole circle, you'll need an interesting (large) sky to add balance to your shot as the foreground will appear to be long and thin.
 

14. Give Panoramas A Try

Try shooting a panorama where you take a series of images that can be joined in post-production (or most cameras have this feature built-in) to capture the whole circle.
 

15. Do Your Research

For inspiration and to find out the location of some of the most photogenic stone circles do you research before you leave your house. We have an article listing some of the most popular stone circles in the UK, you can read it here: Stone Circle Locations

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The Samsung 990 SSD delivers robust performance with a sequential read speed of up to 7,250 MB/s and 38% improved power efficiency over its predecessor

The 1TB and 2TB options widen PC upgrade choices for consumers ranging from everyday use to gaming and content creation

Samsung Electronics announced the launch of its new 990 SSD, available in 1-terabyte (TB) and 2TB capacities. Delivering exceptional sequential performance and enhanced power efficiency, the Samsung 990 SSD is designed as a balanced storage solution optimized for gaming, creative workloads, and daily PC use.

"Samsung’s new 990 SSD is an excellent solution for a wide range of users looking to expand their storage for heavy workloads, immersive gaming, high-resolution content creation, and DIY PC builds," said Tommy (Hyoungsuk) Kwon, Vice President of Memory Brand Product Biz Team at Samsung Electronics.

Thanks to PCIe 4.0 support and the latest NAND technologies, the Samsung 990 SSD 2TB model delivers a sequential read speed of up to 7,250 megabytes per second (MB/s), while the 1TB model reaches up to 7,150 MB/s. Both models provide sequential write speeds of up to 6,450 MB/s, enabling fast file transfers and reduced loading times.

For random performance, the 2TB model delivers up to 850K read and 1,200K write IOPS, while the 1TB model reaches read and write speeds of up to 700K and 1,100K IOPS, respectively. These capabilities help users experience faster application launches, responsive gameplay, and efficient handling of large-scale workloads.

The expanded storage capacity also allows users to store large amounts of high-quality content and the latest AAA games. The 2TB model can store up to 30 large-scale games based on an average size of 64GB¹, making it an ideal solution for gamers and creators managing increasingly sizable files and applications.

The Samsung 990 SSD has also achieved significant improvements in power efficiency. Compared to its previous 990 PRO model, the power efficiency has improved by up to 38%², allowing users achieve high performance with lower power consumption.

The Samsung Magician Software helps ensure SSDs—including the Samsung 990—maintain optimal performance. It supports seamless data migration and drive health monitoring, enabling users to benefit from customized performance optimization and robust data protection.

The Samsung 990 SSD will be available in 1TB and 2TB models from July 14, 2026, with an MSRP of £212.19 and £411.99, respectively. Availability may vary by market.

¹ Based on an average game size of 64.3GB – calculated using the top 12 titles from Steam’s “Best of 2025: New Releases” list https://store.steampowered.com/charts/bestofyear/2025

² SSD 990 sequential read/write 1,686/1,697 MB/s per Watt, 990 PRO sequential read/write 1,221/1,255 MB/s per Watt based on the internal test result of the 2TB capacity model.

³ The NVM Express® design mark is a registered trademark of NVM Express, Inc.

⁴ 1GB = 1,000,000,000 bytes by IDEMA. A certain portion of capacity may be used for system file and maintenance use, thus the actual available capacity may differ from the labeled capacity. 

⁵ Sequential and random performance are based on 1Ometer1.1.0 Performance may vary based on SSD's firmware version, system hardware & configurations. Test System: AMD Ryzen 9 7650X 16-Core Processor CPU@4.50GHz, DDR5 4800MHz (16GBx2), OS-Windows 11 Pro 64bit, ChipsetASRock-X670E-Taichi. Sequential and random write performance was measured with Intelligent TurboWrite technology being activated. Intelligent TurboWrite operates only within a specific data transfer size. For detailed information, please contact your local service center.

⁶ Samsung Electronics shall not be liable for any loss, including but not limited to loss of data or other information contained on Samsung's products or loss of profit or revenue which may be incurred by the user. Warranty provides coverage for the stated time period or the TBW (Total Bytes Written), whichever comes first. Please refer to the detailed warranty statement here at http://www.samsung.com/samsungssd

For more information, please visit the Samsung UK website.

1. What's A Catchlight?

A catchlight is simply a light's highlight reflected off the surface of your subject's eyes. They subtly breathe life into portraits by adding a little more depth to the eyes and are something that painters were using in portraits long before photography was a popular pastime.

2. How Do I Create Them?

What light source you're using, how strong it is and how far it is from your subject will change the shape and size of the catchlight. The larger the light source, the bigger the catchlight will be and if you have multiple light sources, you can end up with more than one catchlight appearing on the eyes.

You can use artificial or natural light to create catchlights, just remember that direct flash will produce a much smaller catchlight than flash that's reflected off a brolly and if you're working outside, the catchlights can have a slight blue tint to them. When working indoors with fill-in light as well as a key / main light source, your additional, fill-in light may create an additional set of catchlights in your subject's eyes. Some people like the effect so if you're one of these, just make sure one is dimmer than the other so they're not too distracting. You can always try removing one set in your editing software too, but it's always easier to get it right in-camera first rather than relying on Photoshop.

3. Where To Position The Catchlights?

If you look at the eye as if it was a clock you should try and get the catchlight to sit, ideally, at 10 or 12 o'clock but anywhere between a quarter to and quarter past should work just as well. Of course, this isn't set in stone and you may prefer to use a lower position. Placing your light source above your subject's head will also help you get the positioning of the catchlights right.

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Waterfalls, the pools of water in front of them and streams will always be popular photographic subjects but just because everyone's taking photos of these photogenic landscape spots doesn't mean all of your shots have to be the same as the next photographer who comes along. With this in mind, let us share a few tips with you on how to shoot waterfall shots that have a bit of a twist. 

1. Capture More Close-Up Shots

Instead of capturing the whole scene why not focus on a small area of the waterfall. Focus on movement and colour rather than a landscape as a whole or use rocks that cause smaller cascades further downstream to fill your images with sharp shapes that contrast well against the smooth flow of water.  

2. Use Fast Shutter Speeds

When you think of waterfall images the shot of silky water cascading down rocks probably springs to-mind but there's no reason why you can't switch this around and capture a sense of motion and power. If you're working in aperture priority you can set a wide aperture (f/2.8 - 4) to get the quicker shutter speeds you need. You can also bump up your ISO to gain a faster shutter speed. To freeze movement you have to set a fast enough shutter speed to prevent the subject’s movement blurring as it moves across the sensor. What shutter speed you need will change depending on how fast the water is moving so experimentation is key but keeping the speed under one second should be a good starting point.

3. Go Abstract - Shoot Bubbles

At the foot of the waterfall or even further downstream you'll find water bubbles that can be captured and turned into abstract pieces for your wall. Please take care on slippery rocks and obviously take care of your kit. Remember to wipe it down after use and unless you are using a camera which is weather-resistant try not to stand in a spot where the spray will be a problem. Shoot plenty with fast shutter speeds and focus manually. For more tips on this subject, have a read of this: Why And How To Shoot Creative Abstract Photos Of Water Bubbles

Further downstream the currents of bubbles can be turned into spirals that decorate the surface of the water when shot with longer shutter speeds but try to not make the shutter speed too long as this will add too much blur and you'll lose definition. 

4. Head Out On 'Bad' Weather Days

Most of us aren't fans of rain and cloudy days but after a shower, foliage appears more vibrant and it'll help your image to really 'pop'. The contrast will be lower too which makes it easier to get the shot you want without having to worry about bracketing. Later in the year when frost and ice begin to make an appearance, you'll be able to capture shots with icicles decorating banks and if it's really cold, the waterfall may be frozen all together giving you the opportunity to capture a waterfall shot that's certainly different from the norm. Just remember to be careful when walking at the side of streams and rivers as surfaces will be slippery. 

5. Do A Black & White Conversion 

If you think your shot is lacking punch, apply a black & white conversion and you may be surprised with the results. The cascade of water will really stand out against darker, wet rocks and foliage, plus a black and white conversion can often add mood to a waterfall shot that wasn't there in the colour version. 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to AndyPedant (Day 12 - 'Signs).

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

Day 9

Skyscrapers

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Day 10

'Fast' Theme

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Day 11

Vertical Lines

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Day 13

'Out Of Focus'

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Day 14

Summer Trees

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Day 15

Street Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

1. Sit Down

Be it on the floor, or on a seat, sitting immediately gives you a lower perspective and therefore new photo opportunities. Trees and people, for example, can tower over you when sat down for that overbearing feel. Often photographing children look more natural from a seated position too, as you're at their level rather than shooting down on them.

2. Go Out To Sea

While on your travels, if you have a waterproof camera try turning round to face the beach. If you don't fancy getting wet, just walk towards the water and stand at the edge, shooting up the beach rather than out to sea as most people do. You could also get on a boat of some sort and see what spectacular pictures of the coast you can get while out there. An organised boat trip will also give you a fantastic opportunity to capture some amazing wildlife photos while you're at it, too. If you do head out to sea, taking a weather-resistant camera will mean it's protected against sea spray but do remember to wipe your kit down once back home to remove any residue. Here are some more tutorials on photographing the sea.

3. Climb Up High

Head for the nearest tower or hill to get a stunning view of a town or landscape below you. Night vistas of cities work well as do misty mornings in the countryside where valleys are filled with fog and only the peaks above can be seen. To give your shot even more impact, capture a panorama, a topic discussed further down the page. If landscape photography takes your fancy, then here are 10 Quick Landscape Photograph Tips.

4. Take A Stepladder Out

It might sound silly but if you're trying to take photos at a busy event where there's a big crowd, you'll be able to shoot above them. It will help you avoid getting people's heads in shots and give you a great opportunity to get a general overview of the scene. A stepladder will also get you closer to items that are slightly too high for you to shoot from the ground and offer a slightly alternative angle to everyday objects that are shot straight-on most of the time.

5. Go Underwater

If you have the right equipment, shooting underwater is well worth a try. You don't even have to go diving, you could simply buy an underwater camera and have a go in a pool or at the beach in shallower water. This is a fun one for kids to have a go at, too. 

6. Hold Your Camera Up High

The easiest way to change your view is by simply holding the camera up above you to give you a different perspective of the scene. Cameras with a tiltable screen let you see everything comfortably when you shoot - even from very high angles. 
 

7. Go Wide

Why settle for a standard 4 x 6 shot when you can shoot a panorama? With built-in panorama modes, it's now easier than ever to take these wider shots. All you have to do is select the Panorama Mode and sweep your camera in the direction you want to create your panorama. The camera then stitches the images together so you have a sweeping shot of the scene you're shooting.
 

8. Lie Down

Again, this can get you some funny looks but it's worth it as you'll get an ant's eye view that can give surprisingly good photographic results. Use a small aperture to maximise depth of field and keep an eye on your exposure if you're including the sky in your shot. This position is also great for macro and close-up shots of insects and plants, and any other small items on the ground.

9. Shoot From Under/Below Things

This involves positioning your camera so it's low to the ground but facing up towards the sky. This can produce some great images of flowers, for example, as it makes it look like they're leaning over your lens and provides a unique opportunity to get a lot of sky in the picture too.

10. Use Reflections

Reflections can be great tools for changing perspective. As well as the obvious choices such as landscapes reflected in mirror-like lakes, look for puddles you can reflect people with umbrellas in, new buildings made of glass which can reflect slightly older structures and more abstract shots when the winds blowing so the water's surface isn't still.

For many of us, when we decide to get out and about with our cameras we automatically turn to the countryside. But with the majority of the population living within easy reach of a major Town or City, is that really the right decision? It’s great fun just walking around a city taking shots of literally everything but if you want to capture great images you need to go with a plan and a bag of kit including a couple of lenses and a tripod.

1. Think About Your Equipment

Don’t take lots of equipment just in case you might miss a shot, rather modify your subject matter and shooting style to suit the kit you have with you. This minimalist approach to shooting can help improve your success ratio.

2. Don't Get Overwhelmed 

Cities have so much variety to offer the photographer that it’s easy to become overwhelmed with the choice. My favoured approach is to pick one or possibly two themes and then explore an area looking to fulfil this self-imposed brief. 

3. Stay Safe

Where possible I like to shoot with a second person, especially if going out of the main shopping areas. Camera equipment is expensive and pulling out a new DSLR with a huge lens makes you stand out. Whilst I often like to carry my gear in a backpack I will also use a shoulder bag which I always ensure has my head through the strap as well as my shoulder. This makes it easily accessible and less of a target for potential thieves.

4. Theme Choices 

Dereliction is a popular choice and you don’t always need to leave the main area. The above shot also demonstrates how buildings reflect the way we live with the covering of posters, which is another possible theme.

There are many old and new iconic buildings and these can produce some great images especially if the light is right. Watch out also for the past icons that have become worn and faded. 

Patterns are another great subject. Cities are literally awash with patterns everywhere you look. For example, a simple set of steps and handrails probably won’t win any prizes but it's the perfect example of how patterns can be found in the simplest of objects. 

Follow your common sense and you will have a great day and capture some wonderful images.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Trees are something nearly all photographers use in their images at some point. They add interest to landscapes, are used as backgrounds for fashion shoots and nature photographers get up close to the bark and leaves which are various animals and insects call their home. If photographing a tree's not something you've done before or you're looking for a little inspiration on how you can shoot them differently take a look at our top ten list of effective/interesting ways to photograph trees.

1.Include The Foreground

Before you head for the centre of the forest take the time to walk around the edge of it to find a good spot where you can capture a few shots that have foreground interest. By adding detail in the foreground you add depth to the image and give the shot a sense of scale which gives the composition more impact.

If you're working with just one tree try positioning it in the left or right third of the frame. As well as using a field as your foreground, which works particularly well in winter when there's a fresh covering of snow, try and find a lake or large pool of water which can add another dimension to the image with the reflection of the forest in it.

2. Take A Look At The Roots

Look out for patterns created by roots, especially those from beech which are often unearthed from weather erosion of the soil. For a more unusual perspective, use a wide-angle lens as in the shot below to curve the background. You can get colour cast from the green canopy above your head as the image below right demonstrates. If you find a tree on its side try to fill the frame with the patterns created by the overlapping/twisting roots. You may also find insect activity you can photograph in among them.
 

3. Get In Among The Trees

Use a long lens in dense wood to create a dramatic perspective, making the tree stumps look as though they are stacked on top of each other. These areas will make interesting patterns just remember to use a telephoto lens to compress the trees. Overcast days when the light is soft are good for this but don't overlook misty/foggy mornings later on in the year. This works particularly well when the wooded area's particularly thick but as fog acts like a softbox and can lower the contrast of your surroundings, you can end up with rather long exposure times. Trees in mist can look great silhouetted too but do take care with your exposure. Try opening up by one stop to prevent a dark grey sky appearing and a complete silhouette forming.

4. Add People, Buildings Or Other Structures

Give your image scale by adding other objects or people into the scene and look for man-made objects such as benches or even statues as these will contrast well against the soft colours of nature. If you're in a park try shooting a few candid portraits of the people walking through and under the trees. This will add an extra element of interest and get the viewer thinking about who they are, where they're going etc.

5. Focus On The Bark

The patterns in the bark vary from tree to tree. The smooth grey of beech, to the peeling white of silver birch, the cracked patterns of the pine and the deeply rutted elm. Try framing very tightly so you don't see the edges of the tree stump and use a small aperture to cope with the rounded shape and ensure it's all in focus. Trunks made up of particularly thick bark that has deep lines make interesting patterns when you shoot with a tight frame. Bark also makes great textures which you can overlay with other shots. Finally, if you're using a compact camera remember to switch to Macro mode to get closer to the bark.

6. Take A Look At The Leaves

From the trunk, move up to the branches and focus on the leaves. Again you could move in really close and create patterns from the veins or step back slightly and record the whole shape. Maple like leaves of trees such as sycamore is the most interesting with their five tips, but great results can also be achieved from more ordinary oval and round leaves.

Try shooting with the sun behind the leaves which will make them glow. Position yourself so the sun is shielded from the camera by a branch to avoid flare or use your hand or lens hood to provide protection. Backlit leaves can look particularly amazing during the autumn months when the leaves take on their yellow and orange shades. Other close-ups that are gagging to be photographed are the fruit, berries and cones.

7. Look For A Single Tree

Trees can be used as points of interest in wide, sweeping landscape shots of fields. They break up long, flat horizons, adding interest and giving scale to the shot. Just remember to keep the space around the tree clean and empty. Vibrant greens or fields of bright flowers or golden crops will give the image more punch while a stormy sky sat behind the lone tree will further enhance the feeling of isolation in the shot.

8. Get Up High

Gain a high vantage point and shoot a woodland canopy, again depending on the time of year you could either create a lush green spread or a wildly varied collection of browns in autumn. Try shooting from a nearby hillside and use a small aperture to ensure everything from the foreground to the background is sharp.

9. Try A Different Angle

Some nature reserves with woodland areas have bridges which take you along the top of the trees. Take advantage of this, shooting through the branches and leaves. You can use them as a natural frame to guide the eye to another focus point or just fill the frame with the interesting patterns you find from the branches twisting and overlapping.

If it's safe to do so and you're brave enough, you could try climbing up a smaller tree but don't put yourself in danger. Back on the ground look for trees decorated with dappled light or get low to the ground and shoot up into the canopy. If you have a blue sky, green leaves will contrast well against it and by using a wide-angle lens, the trunks of the trees will look like they're almost falling out of the image due to the effect wide-angle lens have on verticals. Don't think this is a bad thing as actually it can make a really interesting shot.

10. Timelapse / Seasonal Shots

Capturing the changes in the leaves as we move from season to season is an interesting project that just needs a bit of patience and a spot you can return to again and again to take your shots. It's often easier to focus on just one leaf but you can record more if you so wish. Make sure you use a tripod and try and make a note of the exact point you took your first shot from or, if you're in your own garden, you could always make a mark so you know where your tripod needs to be. It'll also help if the spot you pick is sheltered so the project doesn't come to an end too early if the wind blew the leaf off the tree prematurely.

Once you're set up you can record the leaves changing from the rich green shades we see in summer to the golden shades of autumn before it falls off during the winter months. As spring arrives and the buds break, you could try recording a sequence of photographs showing the various stages of the bud appearing, breaking and the leaf unfolding. Taking things a stage further find a position where you can fill the frame with the whole tree and photograph it as a lush green canopy, then the vivid autumn browns and finally a snow-covered version in winter.

A wonderful example of macro nature photography has been crowned our 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) on ePHOTOzine this week.

Captured by Prizm and titled 'Macro Moments', it's a shot that really stayed with us. We love the detail in this shot, from the fine hairs on the body to the fine lines running through the wings, right down to the big eye caught in full clarity. The dragonfly is nice and sharp too, resting on its reed with the background falling away into a soft blur of greens and browns. Plus, the warm golden and orange colors help the insect stand out in the frame, keeping the focus entirely on this creature.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

Having a blurry image isn't always a bad thing. In fact, when it's used in the right place, it can actually make your photos better. Here are a few examples of when blur can be used and a few tips on how to produce the shots.
 

1. Water / Waterfalls

1. Use shutter-priority so you can control how long the shutter is open.
2. The slower the speed you choose the more blur there will be.
3. The speed you need will change depending on how much blur you want, how much water there is and the distance between the camera and your subject.
4. Start between 1/8sec to 1/15sec and just adjust until you get the blur you're looking for.
5. If you struggle to get the shutter speed low enough try fitting an ND filter to your lens. 
6. Always use a tripod to prevent shake spoiling your shot and if possible use a remote / cable release. 
7. Meter carefully as large areas of light tones can fool the camera into underexposing your shot.
8. Slow shutter speeds will blur anything that moves so if you don't want what's surrounding your subject to be blurred, try taking two shots: one with the slower shutter speed then the other with a speed that will freeze movement. You can then combine these in editing software such as Photoshop.
9. Try blurring the movement of waterfalls, rapids, waves breaking along the coastline, a fast-flowing river and water flowing from a tap

2. Action Photography

1. For people, animals or vehicles which are moving, adding a touch of blur to the image can give the impression of speed, emphasising motion and creating a sense of drama in the shot.
2. If you use too higher shutter speed you'll just freeze the motion, too slow and there can be too much blur and the background and your subject will seem like they're merging together. So it's worth experimenting with a variety of shutter speeds to get it right.
3. Try panning with the subject as they move. Start panning, release the shutter button and then continue the pan even after the camera's captured the image. If you get it right the subject will appear sharp as it hasn't moved position in the viewfinder, but the background will be blurred making the subject look as though it's hurtling along.
4. Try to get enough blur so the background isn't distracting and the movement of the wheels on the vehicle you're photographing are blurred to create the sense of motion in the shot. This will also help the eye focus on what it's meant to.
5. Try using slow sync flash which is where you use a slow shutter speed and flash together to freeze your subject but blur the background. The low shutter speed continues to record the ambient conditions and further subject movement. It's used mostly by sports photographers recording cycling events or motorsports but can also be creative in any environment that has a moving subject in the foreground. Try using it next time you're photographing your child playing on a swing.

3. Light Trails 

1. Do not try and drive the car and work the camera at the same time. Get yourself a driver or you drive and get a friend to operate the camera.
2. Make sure the windscreen is very, very clean otherwise smears will spoil the final shot.
3. Make sure the tripod is secure before you set off so the camera doesn't get broken from it falling over during the drive.
4. Try positioning the camera so you can only see the view through the windscreen but don't worry if you have the roof or dashboard in shot as you can always crop it out. The lights and shape of the dashboard can also add an extra element of interest to the image, giving the trails something to contrast against.
5. Focus on the distance - you want the lights sharp ideally.
6. Use a small aperture to give you front to back sharpness. It'll also mean you can use longer shutter speeds.
7. 10-30 second exposure will capture the light trails. If you want longer shutter speeds, use the B setting.
8. Use a remote trigger, cable release or self-timer to fire the shutter.
9. Twilight is a good time and you need a location with a variety of light sources.
10. Towns are good locations for this as they'll be streaks of light on various levels and of several shades on offer. Motorways are also good but here you'll get more continuous long light streaks.

4. Abstract Shots 

1. Sometimes you don't need anything to be sharp and in focus to make an interesting image.
2. If you're using lines try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines will have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking.
3. Shapes are obviously softened so make sure you're photographing something that's interesting and bold, otherwise your image won't have any impact.
4. Strong, bold colours work well because you're losing texture and detail you see in sharp shots. Make sure your tones don't clash and check to see if any shades are overpowering certain areas of the frame.

5. Drag Landscapes 

1. Overcast days are perfect for this technique.
2. Find a scene that has strong lines – fences with flowers in front of them and trees work well.
3. Basically, you need to press the shutter button and as the exposure processes, dragging your camera up, down left or right as it does.
4. Don't stop panning until you're past your subject as you won't get the blurry lines you're looking for.

6. Zoom Blur

1. You have to get the zoom right – too much and you won't be able to make out your subject, too little and it will just look like a normal shot.
2. Use a small aperture to get the slower shutter speed that's needed. Use a low ISO too. This is particularly important when your subject is backlit.
3. Fit a neutral density filter or a polarising filter if you can't get a slow enough shutter speed.
4. Make sure you meter from your main focus point.
5. You need to set the zoom to either the short or long end of the focal length range, open the shutter, wait for a while then in one, smooth, quite quick movement, zoom out. By pausing at the start your subject will have a little definition before the blur kicks in.
6. Stained glass windows are good subjects for this technique but try it in a forest with the light that flows through the trees too.

7. Remove Distracting Backgrounds 

1. If you're working somewhere that has a busy background use a larger aperture to throw it out of focus. This blur will hide whatever was distracting the eye, allowing all focus to fall on your subject.
2. If you're using a compact camera try switching to the appropriate mode (portrait for people, macro for close up work) so the camera knows you want to throw the background out of focus.

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Artemis II in Eclipse. Credit: NASA

NASA has shared a shot from the Artemis II mission called "Artemis II in Eclipse", captured by the crew using a Nikon Z9 during the lunar flyby back in April. The image shows the Sun eclipsed by the Moon from inside the spacecraft, with Saturn and Mars visible off to the side. What makes this even more interesting is that researchers at Tokyo City University have since used the photo, shot handheld on a commercially available camera, to study the structure of the inner zodiacal cloud, proving that consumer camera gear can contribute to real astronomical research.

From Nikon:

NASA has released a spectacular image from its Artemis II mission, where Nikon's flagship camera, the Nikon Z9, was used by the crew to capture one-of-a-kind interstellar imagery from the historic lunar flyby. Titled "Artemis II in Eclipse", the picture offers a unique perspective of the Sun eclipsed by the Moon from inside the spacecraft.

This fantastic shot was captured in April using the Nikon Z9 mirrorless camera, paired with a 35mm f/2D lens at an aperture of f/2, an exposure time of 2 s, and ISO 1600.

With this rare vantage point, the Artemis II crew witnessed the Sun hiding behind the Moon for almost an hour at a close distance (4,067 miles at closest approach) where the Moon appeared much larger than the sun. The astronauts also captured Saturn and Mars, visible to the right of the Moon within the majestic shot.

Hiroyuki Ikegami, Nikon Senior Executive Vice President, General Manager of Imaging Business Group says: "Seeing the images from the Artemis II mission return to Earth is a profound honour for all of us at Nikon. This latest research from Tokyo City University acts as a powerful reminder of what imaging can make possible when science, exploration, unrelenting effort and human curiosity come together."

"For more than five decades, from Apollo 15 to the Artemis program, Nikon has been privileged to support NASA with cameras and lenses designed for exceptional clarity and reliability in the most demanding environments. The Nikon Z9's high resolution, expansive dynamic range and outstanding low-light performance are helping crews capture incredible details."

Additionally, researchers at Tokyo City University analysed solar corona images taken by the astronauts with the Nikon Z9 during the Artemis II mission. They found that the Z9's high resolution, wide dynamic range and low-noise performance made it possible to capture even the faintest light around the sun with stunning clarity – contributing to this remarkable scientific discovery in space exploration.

Figure 3. Left: a normalized green channel image produced by masking the Moon and bright stars from the original art002e009301 image to extract the structure of the diffuse background emission. Right: a diffuse ZL map for the same field calculated using ZodiSURF (R. O'Brien et al. 2026) with the same normalization. Intensity contours of the diffuse light at levels of [0.01, 0.03, 0.1, 0.3] are overlaid for both images.

Their study demonstrates that opportunistic observations from crewed lunar missions can provide valuable insights into the structure of the inner zodiacal cloud.

Kohji Tsumura, Associate Professor, Tokyo City University (currently Associate Professor, Frontier Research Institute for Interdisciplinary Sciences, Tohoku University) says: "I was amazed to learn that this remarkable image was captured by an astronaut using a commercially available Nikon Z9 with an exposure time of just two seconds—a true testament to how far digital camera technology has come. Although I was initially sceptical about analysing a JPEG image, the quality proved comparable to data used in professional astronomical observations. Astronomy is unique in that amateurs and professionals alike can make meaningful contributions, and as high-performance cameras become more accessible, I believe images taken by amateur photographers will increasingly lead to unexpected scientific discoveries. I am delighted that this research offers one such example."

Ko Arimatsu, Co-author of the study;  Senior lecturer, National Astronomical Observatory of Japan (NAOJ) says: "In this study, we investigated the properties of the F-corona—interplanetary dust scattering sunlight near the Moon—using images taken by an astronaut with a commercially available Nikon Z9. The findings demonstrate that scientifically valuable data can be extracted from consumer camera images when properly calibrated and analysed. This suggests that high-performance consumer cameras could serve not only for documentation during future space exploration, but also as tools for unexpected scientific discoveries."

For more information, please visit the Nikon website.

Signs aren't the most difficult subject in the world to photograph but there are a few things you can do to ensure your shots are perfect.

1. Why Photograph Signs?

Signs can be interesting and/or funny in their own right and they can give the person who's viewing your work more information about the areas you visited too. Older parts of towns will have signs that look a little more battered while newer signs which look less worn and more modern will suggest you spent quite a lot of time in newer areas of town. They also suggest if you've ventured beyond the tourist areas as signs tend to just have the language of the country you're visiting once you're over the edges of the tourist trap. These, in particular, are the signs that can be funny too due to the different language or images used to illustrate what the signs telling people. You may also find people have added their own diagrams to the signs which can often bring to odd grin or two.

2. Give Your Collection Direction

As well as having them as photos that sit among your collection you can use signs to organise your galleries, albums and portfolios. They make great headings that will help the viewer understand they're moving into a new collection of images.

3. To Zoom Or Not?

If the sign is particularly interesting or tells a story on its own without its surroundings you'll want to fill the frame with it, making use of your zoom if you can't physically get close to the sign. If you're using the sign within its surroundings you'll probably want to use a small aperture to ensure front to back sharpness. Double-check you can still see what's on the sign too as, after all, it's still our focus. Where possible, try shooting straight on to the sign too so it's easier to read.

4. Reflections

Modern signs are more likely to have a reflective surface and when you're working with bright sunshine or flash, glare can bounce back off the sign spoiling the shot. As a result, it's usually best to turn the flash off or if you're using a flashgun leave it in the bag. If sunlight is your problem then try a different position to see if the glare goes away or return later or come back early the next day when the sun's moved positions.

5. Shop Signs

If you come across an interesting shop sign chances are it'll be high up and shooting from the ground, looking up won't look right in the final shot so if you can, find something to stand on to give you more height or stand further back if that's not possible.

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L-R: Ian McKellen, Love, London, 2023; Chappell Roan, Fashion: Chanel Haute Couture, New York City, 2025; Isaac Julien and Queen Conch Shell, London, 2023; Miriam Margolyes, Clapham Cream Teas, London, 2023 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

The National Portrait Gallery has announced full details of Tim Walker's Fairyland: Love and Legends, a landmark new exhibition from acclaimed British photographer Tim Walker. Running from 9 October 2026 to 7 February 2027, the show brings together 250 specially created portraits made over five years, capturing Queer activists, storytellers, performers and icons including Ian McKellen, Chappell Roan, Isaac Julien and Miriam Margolyes. Curated by Susanna Brown, the exhibition traces over fifty years of Queer history and culture, from the campaigners of the Gay Liberation Front through to today's changemakers, before closing with a bold exploration of fashion, performance and fairy tale reimagined through a Queer lens.

From National Portrait Gallery:

Today the National Portrait Gallery reveals details of a major new exhibition created by renowned photographer Tim Walker, presenting a body of new work celebrating Queer culture and life. The project is the result of five years of connecting with Queer people and their allies in Britain and beyond and marks a decisive shift in Walker's artistic focus.

Walker rose to prominence in the 1990s with his unique style of fantastical photography. Since then, his fashion pictures and portraits have graced the pages of magazines such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, W, Love, Another Man and i-D. He has published seven books and staged solo exhibitions at museums around the world, while his short films and projects with musicians have won international acclaim.

Curated by Susanna Brown, the exhibition engages with the historical gallery setting, presenting both unsung heroes and established giants of Queer history. Designed by Walker's longtime collaborator Shona Heath with support from the National Portrait Gallery, Walker spotlights some 250 activists, social workers, nightlife performers, musicians and superstars in a spectacular display. Tim Walker's Fairyland: Love and Legends purposefully reclaims the word 'fairy' for Walker and his sitters, resisting homophobia and transphobia with his original blend of wit, joy and sensitivity.

The exhibition opens with portraits of trailblazers who spent the 1970s and 80s bravely advocating for the right to love. They include founding members of the Gay Liberation Front and Stonewall, among them Olivette Cole-Wilson, Andrew Lumsden, Lisa Power and Tom Robinson. Walker memorialises his own 'queeristocracy' in a style inspired by sixteenth-century portraits of Tudor aristocracy by Hans Holbein the Younger and Nicholas Hilliard.

L-R: Andrew Lumsden (1941–2023) (after Nicholas Hilliard), London, 2023; Olivette Cole–Wilson and Blackbird, London, 2025; Sunil Gupta, London, 2023; Jill Nalder Holding a Photograph of Dursley McLinden (1965–95), London, 2023. / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

A further group of Queer changemakers, such as Ted Brown, Caroline Paige, Gilli Salvat and Peter Tatchell, are shown alongside storytellers who made Queerness visible in the late 20th century, including James Ivory and Sarah Waters. Walker invited each sitter to bring a meaningful object to their portrait session: author Jane Cholmeley presents the original shop sign from Silver Moon Women's Bookshop, founded in 1984; photographer Sunil Gupta holds his camera; and filmmaker Isaac Julien clasps a conch shell, a motif from his pioneering 1989 film Looking for Langston. Walker then photographed those working today for a better future, among them Liz Carr, Shon Faye, Francis Lee, Lady Phyll, E-J Scott, and Kae Tempest. Nearly all these portraits are set against deceivingly simple white backgrounds, in a style reminiscent of the work of Richard Avedon, whom Walker assisted in the 1990s.

L-R: Lady Phyll, London, 2024; Kae Tempest, London, 2023; Francis Lee, Ode to Edward Carpenter, London, 2023; Shon Faye, London, 2025 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

The exhibition pays tribute to the many people who came together in solidarity and action in response to the HIV/AIDS crisis of the 1980s. Walker's photographs of nurses and healthcare professionals who developed effective treatments for the disease are displayed alongside musicians who soundtracked the era, including Marc Almond, Holly Johnson, and Jimmy Somerville. Walker explains, "The brilliance of their music boomed despite the fear of mortality and discrimination. I wanted to bring that disco to the ward, to celebrate the tireless work to spread awareness and pursue proper care and solutions."

A room at the centre of the exhibition is dedicated to large-scale portraits of post-punk collective the Rebel Dykes, inspired by Karlheinz Weinberger's photographs of 1960s biker gangs. These are accompanied by a short film in which the women reflect on the importance of community and their campaigns for nuclear disarmament, environmentalism, sex positive feminism and HIV solidarity.

L-R: Aphra and Jo Barwick, Siobhan Fahey and Emily Witham, East Sussex, 2024; Maartje Convens and Marin Céleste, Camfield Place, Hertfordshire, 2022; Paul O'Grady (1955–2023) and Julian Clary as the Glitter Queens, with Harry Browse, Rae and Liam Elias as the Glitter Boys, London, 2022 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

The second half of the exhibition looks at the transformative power that fashion, makeup and performance have long held for Queer people. It features portraits of designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Michaela Stark, drag performers Paul O'Grady, David Hoyle and Midgitte Bardot, personalities Alan Carr and Sue Perkins, and actors Ncuti Gatwa, Hunter Schafer, Fiona Shaw and Ben Whishaw, among many others. International music stars and icons Björk, Lady Gaga, Boy George, Frank Ocean, and Chappell Roan are also pictured.

L-R: David Hoyle, Prawn Cocktailed, London, 2023; Ben Whishaw in Crystal Prism, London, 2020; Fairyland Parade, Joe Sweeney, Matthew Keller, Harry Keita, Bolly Illusion, James Corbin, Oliver-Bijan Daryoush, Jack Newman, Yos Clark and Joseph O'Rourke, London, 2023; Alex Gorey and Matías Montes (after Yannis Tsarouchis), London, 2021 / Image Credit: National Portrait Gallery

The exhibition climaxes with a room of staged erotic scenes which subvert fairy tales and nursery rhymes through a Queer lens. Walker contextualises these works saying, "the greatest thing I learned from the activists, storytellers and performers who make up Fairyland is how essential eroticism and humour are. It's the very heart of what we're talking about when we talk about Queerness. A place where you can desire and be desired. A place where you can be whoever you want to be."

"The Fairyland exhibition is me finally placing myself in the queer realm with confidence and greeting all the other friends who live here. Just as I learned from the queer artists who came before me, some of whom I'm lucky enough to have met and photographed here, Fairyland is me saying you are not alone. I want visitors to the exhibition to remember that your difference is your power. It is a precious and beautiful thing." 

Tim Walker, Photographer

"This is the most ambitious and important project of Tim Walker's career. He takes exhibition visitors on a journey that begins with protest and outrage and ends with joy. For some visitors, the content will resonate with their own lived experiences, for others it will broaden their understanding of unfamiliar subjects. It's been an honour to collaborate with him and to witness the creation of this powerful and uplifting body of work."

Susanna Brown, Exhibition curator

"Tim Walker's Fairyland: Love and Legends takes us on an extraordinary journey through half a century of history. It is a vivid tapestry of Tim's many inspirations and influences and presents lavish, fantastical scenes alongside intimate and singular portraits. This timely exhibition is both deeply personal and profoundly universal and we are proud to host it at the Gallery."

Victoria Siddall, Director of the National Portrait Gallery

The exhibition is accompanied by a new book featuring contributions written by Travis Alabanza, Susanna Brown, Russell T Davies, Shon Faye, Lisa Power and Joelle Taylor.

For more details, please visit the National Portrait Gallery website.