As you don't know what you'll be photographing until you see it, it's best to take a zoom lens out with you. By doing so you'll have various focal lengths to play with plus if you plan on walking for a while, you won't have lots of kit weighing you down.

You can sit and create a list of items organised into colour groups you can photograph or try visiting a location and wandering around to see which colour would be best to shoot in that particular place.

Do remember that the lack of other colours does mean you'll have to work harder to ensure your composition is interesting. That means you need to pay particular attention to textures, lines, shapes and framing.

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1. Focal Lengths

Choosing the right focal length is critical to balancing the key elements in the frame of a landscape. Before hitting the shutter button, take the time to think about where you're placing the camera and the focal length you're using. For example, try a longer focal length and step back. This will pull distant objects into the image and create harmony with what's in the foreground. 
 

2. Foreground Interest 

Another way to balance your landscape shots is with foreground interest. An object placed in the foreground can help guide the eye in the right direction as well as filling in what could be a vast empty space when your attention is on mountains and other background detail. Foreground detail helps give landscapes a sense of depth too. For more information, take a look at this article: Why You Should Look For Interesting Foregrounds For Your Landscapes.

3. Add A Frame

An alternative way to add foreground interest is with a frame. We don't mean for you to go out with a large photo frame in-hand but do be on the lookout for items and objects out in the landscape that can be used to create a frame for your shot. Overhanging branches, doorways and arches are just a few examples of frames you can find when out-and-about. 
 

4. Basic Rules 

Don't overlook the basic rules of photography which includes the rule of thirds, lines, shapes and various other elements as these can help you balance your shot. You'll need to use your lens to complement the rule which could mean changing its position or adjusting the zoom. Take a look at these beginner's tips for more information: Beginner's Guide To Composition
 

5. Shoot Panoramics

As wide-angle lenses sometimes create distortion, an alternative way to shoot photos that have more of the landscape in them is with a panorama. You can shoot panoramas with a short telephoto focal lens and using a tripod helps but it's not essential. The important thing is the choice of scene. Scenes with close to the camera elements will not stitch properly with this method. However, you can buy dedicated panorama heads for scenes that have foreground as well as background interest. More panorama photography tips can be found here: How To Shoot Panoramas and Panoramas Without A Panoramic Head.

More information on lens choices for landscapes can be found in this article: Make The Most Of Your Lenses For Scenics 

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A photograph of an owl captured in flight has won ePHOTOzine's 'Photo of the Week' accolade this week.

The shot, titled 'Chaco Owl', was taken by Mike_Smith during a visit to the Bird of Prey Centre in Helmsley, North Yorkshire. The head-on angle gives you a proper look right at the owl, and the detail in the wings really brings out that sense of movement. A soft, plain sky behind it keeps all the focus on the bird.

It's a lovely capture with great detail and a brilliant subject, making it a fine example of bird photography.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

When you head off on your holidays you'll probably spend some time at the beach and when the sun begins to set and the sky fills with those warm, summer shades, you and every other person on the beach will be pulling their camera out of its bag. The low sun may make great landscape shots but put anything in between you and the sun and it'll turn into a dark silhouette lacking shape and texture.

However, this isn't always a bad thing. For summer silhouettes to work you need a strong, recognisable shape so if you're headed to the beach with your family, why not use one or all of them in your shot? You could also spend time shooting other people as they walk along the shore or stand to watch the sunset.

1. Set-Up

Make sure you know what time the sun will be setting and in what direction as you don't want to turn up at a beach to find you can't actually see the sun setting from it. Once you have your chosen location make sure you arrive in plenty of time, which shouldn't be a problem if you've had a day out at the beach, but if you haven't been on the sand, at least an hour or two before the sun is due to set. Do check out tide times too as you don't want your kit and your family swept out to sea!

2. How To Shoot

Once you have a willing subject position them so your light source is behind them and it can help if you set yourself up so you’re shooting from a slightly lower angle, although this isn't a must. Take a test shot and have a look at the image on the back of the screen. Chances are unless you're working manually, you'll have shot a silhouette. If you don't get the desired look, try using exposure compensation and dial in a -1 or -2 setting. Using spot or centre-weighted metering will also help you capture a silhouette, although can still use multi-zone metering, you just need to aim the camera up at the sky and use exposure lock to take a reading from the brighter sky. Then all you have to do is recompose and take your image. 

3. What To Photograph

As mentioned strong shapes work well so get your subject to try and make different shapes while stood on the sand. This should be quite easy with kids but you may have to be more persuasive with adults!

If you have a group of people, get them to jump in the air so you can capture the shapes they create at the top of their jump. Try capturing a couple holding hands as they watch the sun go down or introduce props to keep your kids busy and more relaxed. Giving them a ball to throw or a bucket and spade to carry will create more interesting shapes and as a result, you'll have a more dynamic shot.

Experiment with angle and how far you crop in too to see how it can make a more interesting picture. If you're photographing someone's head, for example, shoot them as a profile rather than face on as you'll be able to see more features. Don't have too many objects too close together either as they'll all merge into one indistinct shape and the effect won't work as well.
 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Leedslass1 (Day 11 - 'Negative Space').

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

Day 9

Crop Fields

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Day 10

Tourists

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Day 12

Letters

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Day 13

People Outdoors

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Day 14

Long Exposures

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Day 15

Patterns

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Optical distortion is something that affects all lenses to some extent. However, the effect is more pronounced in certain lenses and can be used to give a different spin on an otherwise 'normal' view of an object. 

Although it distorts images, it is not always a negative effect and it can be used in different situations to create abstract or more creative shots of subjects.

Below, we've listed what types of optical distortion there are and how they can affect your images, either in a negative or positive way. 

• What is Curvilinear distortion?
• What is Pincushion distortion?
• What is Mustache distortion?
• What is Chromatic aberration / purple fringing?
• What is Vignetting?

What is Curvilinear distortion?

This is where lines that should be straight in your image appear curved or bowed in some way. There a quite a few different types of this distortion, but the most common you will come across is barrel distortion, where vertical lines appear to curve outwards like a barrel. This type of distortion is most common in wide angle or fisheye lenses. The effect will be really pronounced in the fisheye as the effect is more deliberate here.

This can be used in portrait images to create unique looking images where the facial features are stretched and warped, this works equally well with humans and animals. 

 

 

What is Pincushion distortion?

Pincushion distortion is the opposite of barrel distortion, as the lines bow inwards. The effect is usually quite subtle and can only really be seen in square or rectangular objects when they are shot straight on, such as architecture with windows and doors, and other straight lines. This effect tends to be more of an issue in long telephoto lenses. Pincushion distortion is a lot less pronounced than barrel distortion and so it is often not noticeable in images unless you look really closely. However, it can also be corrected quite quickly and easily in photo editing software. The majority of modern cameras will provide built-in options to correct for this as well.

 

Extreme example of pincushion distortion, from an uncorrrected image, from the Sony E 18-105mm lens - you can see corrected versions in the review.

 

 

What is Mustache distortion?

Mustache distortion is basically a combination of barrel and pincushion distortion. Some lenses display both at the same time. It is most commonly seen in wide angle zooms and makes straight lines in images appear wavy. It can be noticed on the horizon, for example when photographing seascapes, particularly if the horizon is near the top or bottom of the frame.  

 

 

What is Chromatic Aberration?

Chromatic Aberration creates colour fringing on an image, usually around the lines and edges on the image, but it can also be present in other areas of the shot, where there are areas of high contrast, for example a black tree branch, against a bright sky. It usually appears as a purple, glowing halo giving "purple fringing", or can appear as red/magenta lines, often with green/cyan lines as well.

 

An example of chromatic aberration can be seen above, note the megenta and cyan / green lines on the edges of the window frame. You can see an example of purple fringing below, where the gravestone is up against a bright (blown out) sky. 

This can often be corrected either in camera automatically in modern cameras, or in photo editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop, and Adobe Lightroom.

 

Purple fringing can be seen around the top of the gravestone.

 

 

What is Vignetting?

All lenses have a little vignetting - it's the term used when the image is darker at the edges than in the centre, due the curvature of the lens. Vignetting can sometimes be used to your advantage as a stylistic tool, to highlight the main aspect of your image in the centre. Most modern cameras will automatically correct for vignetting, depending on the lens used, and this can be corrected in photo editing software quickly and easily, or alternatively added to give a creative effect and style to your photo. See our guide on how to add a vignette to a photo in Photoshop.

 

Severe vignetting can be seen in this image.

 

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To help you give your urban photography an abstract feel, here are 8 top tips on what, how and where to take your photos when out exploring a town or city. 

1. Focus On What's Interesting

When you find something that catches your eye, think about how you can compose the shot to take the subject away from its surroundings so it becomes abstract rather than a great city shot with several interesting elements. The key to capturing an image that works is to create an image out of something ordinary that you wouldn't normally see while still creating an appealing shot.

2. More Than One Point Of Interest

When you have a subject that has multiple points of interest you have the opportunity to capture various elements, some which may not have seemed so obvious as working in an abstract way at the start.

3. Create Scale

Just because you're capturing abstracts doesn't mean you always have to work up-close. Think of it as cropping out unwanted elements rather than using your lens to zoom in. Use surrounding elements to emphasise size but still frame the image so the building's surroundings are removed, giving emphasis to its shapes and patterns rather than it having context. 

4. Use Colour

By using a single bright colour in a shot that's mostly of the same shades can give the viewer of the image a point of focus that can also be used to guide and lead the eye to other points in the shot. This is even more so when the area is limited and contrasts so greatly with the rest of the image. Strong blocks of colour can also work well but you don't want one to overpower the other so the viewer doesn't pay attention to the rest of the frame. 

5. Look For Shadows 

This isn't something our eyes tend to see but when arranged in the frame properly, they can be a great subject matter on their own or enhance the shapes/patterns of an object you're making your point of focus. 

6. Lines Work Well

 If you want to use lines in your image, try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines can have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking. Don't think lines have to be straight either as a curved line will still guide the viewer's eye. 

7. Shoot Through Other Objects

If you find a rain-covered window or even a water feature that can be used to capture a distorted reflection thanks to the ripples in the water, use them to your advantage. Keep an eye out for coloured glass, reflective buildings and any other items you think will give your city shots that abstract feel you're searching for. 

8. People Like Patterns & Symmetry 

As humans, we like to see repeating patterns and symmetrical objects so take advantage of this. Patterns can guide the eye across an image as well as make your abstract shot more interesting thanks to the shapes they create. 

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Using long exposure can create some cracking shots when used correctly but the smooth, almost dry-ice look using longer shutter speeds gives to water isn't everyone's cup of tea or idea of fun when they're heading off for a day of photography outdoors. So, if you've never tried this technique before and are wondering if it's for you, have a think about the following questions to help you decide.

1. Are you a fan of the outdoors?

This technique is all about leaving the shutter open long enough to turn movement into creative streaks and blur to give you a landscape with an almost graphical twist. For this reason, many types of these shots are taken where there's a wide expanse of water (the coast mainly) but you can also capture inland landscapes when you have a sky dotted with clouds or scenes with waterfalls that can add a feeling of movement and direction to the shot when taken with longer shutter speeds. The coast does give you many other still objects you can use to guide the eye and add interest to your shots though. Think tall piers sat in a mist of water, rocks adding foreground interest and several groynes or even a jetty leading the eye.

If you prefer city shooting, you can use the same technique to create streaks of colour from traffic.

2. Do you have a tripod?

If the answer to this is 'no' and you don't intend purchasing one anytime soon then long exposure photography isn't for you. Why? Well, with exposures in access of 30 seconds, these types of images aren't something you can really successfully take hand-held as shake will just ruin your shots.

3. Do you have a remote / cable release?

This isn't as important as owning a tripod but owning and using one will mean you don't have to actually touch the camera's shutter button, reducing the chances of shake spoiling the shot. However, if you want to use your camera's Bulb mode, you really need to have a remote / cable release in your kit collection. If you have a camera you've purchased more recently then it may have the option for the shutter to be controlled via an app from your Smartphone, eliminating the need for a remote to be purchased.

4. Do you have an ND filter?

To get the really long exposures, particularly when working out of the hours of dawn and dusk, you'll need an ND filter. These come in various strengths and will extend your shutter speeds to the length needed for capturing silk-like water and clouds streaked across the sky.

If you don't own an ND filter but do have a polariser you can still try this technique but you'll have to do it at the start or end of the day when light levels are lower. You'll also need to use a low ISO and keep your apertures small.

Polarising filter can work if just starting out or shoot at dusk with a low ISO and narrow aperture.

5. Do you have patience?

This technique isn't for someone who likes to take a quick snap and move onto the next thing as you will end up standing around for a while waiting for your camera to capture and process the image. With exposure times that can often extend well beyond a minute, you can find yourself twiddling your thumbs quite a lot of the time. However, if you enjoy quiet moments of contemplation or just like to watch the world go by, then maybe playing around with longer shutter speeds is for you.

6. Do you have an eye for composition?

When working with longer shutter speeds, landscape scenes can often take on a more graphical feel/composition and you have to ensure there are elements in the frame which will show movement as well as items to guide the eye and add balance. Without clouds moving across the sky or some form of water element, there won't be any movement which when combined with a slower shutter speed is what gives you the nice streaks and soft, blurry water effect.

7. Do you mind working out calculations?

Although this statement isn't relevant to everyone any more, if you don't own a smartphone or forget to take it out with you, you'll find yourself scribbling down shutter speed calculations when working with Bulb mode. So, if you're not a fan of maths, you'll need to invest in one of the many apps that will work out calculations for you.

8. Do you have Live View?

Cameras that have a Live View function make the set-up for this technique much simpler as it often still works even with a strong ND filter attached to your lens. If you look through a viewfinder with an ND filter attached you won't be able to see anything which means to set-up, you have to remove the filter to compose and focus (manually) before carefully fitting the filter back in-place which is obviously doable but not as straightforward as using Live View.  

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Most of the time, when you're out taking photographs, even if it's a quick snap, make sure your shot has a strong point of interest as if it doesn't, you'll find anyone who looks at your image will look at the image, their eyes won't find anything to settle on and they'll simply move on to look at another shot. Without a focal point, there's nothing to draw them into the photograph so they'll simply lose interest with it. Of course, the more interesting the focal point is, the better your shot will be but there are a few other things you can do to make sure your focal point draws the viewer's attention.

1. One Main Focus Point

Images can have various points of interest but don't let them pull the attention from the main subject as your shot will just become confusing and the viewer will be unsure what to look at. Less attention-grabbing points of interest can be used on lines to draw the eye to a final resting point.

2. Lead In Lines

As mentioned above, by placing minor points of interest along a line you can guide the eye to your main point of interest. Straight lines such as fences or paths work well but other shapes, as talked about in our beginner's composition guide, can work equally as well. The spiral of a staircase will guide the eye up or down while positioning items along an S curve with the main point of focus at the end will lead the eye through the image. There's also the triangle where key features appear along the sides and points of the shape and when it's used correctly, you can create balance in your shot and also guide the eye through the photograph. Repetitive or symmetrical objects such as lamp posts lining either side of a street, a line of palm trees, statues or a series of arches can also be used to guide the eye to a single point.

3. What's In Focus

By using a larger aperture if you're working manually or by selecting Portrait Mode or Macro Mode if you're working close-up, which lets the camera know you want to use a larger aperture, you'll be able to throw the background out of focus, leaving all the attention on your main subject which will be sharp. By putting more distance between your subject and the background you'll be able to make the effect more prominent too. If you're a DSLR user, switching to a longer lens (zoom or prime) with wider maximum apertures will make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds you're looking for.

Photo by Joshua Waller 

4. Blur

When your main subject is moving, be it a pet, a person running, a car or bike, try using a slower shutter speed and pan with them, blurring the background into streaks but leaving them sharp. This will mean all focus falls on your main subject and the sense of speed is increased thanks to the horizontal streaks the background now has.

5. Size

A more obvious way to make sure you have one main point of focus is to fill the frame with it. This works particularly well when photographing flowers but can be applied to portraits too.

Photo by Joshua Waller 

6. Colour And Pop

Use contrasting colours or take it one step further and have a go at colour-popping, where you leave your main point of focus in colour and turn the rest of the image black & white. If you're shooting portraits, positioning your subject against a dark background will really make them 'pop' from the image.

7. Frame

By adding a frame you guide the eye to one main focal point in the scene that you want highlighting. You can also hide other objects you don't want to be in the shot behind your frame and it does have the added effect of just making your image more interesting generally.

8. Crop

If you have images on your computer that seem a little busy try cropping it to see if removing some of the elements makes it less busy and as a result, you get a main point of focus.
 

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Shooting an A to Z photo project is a more versatile area of photography than you might first think. You can, of course, shoot items that begin with each letter of the alphabet, but it's much more fun and testing at times if you shoot things that are shaped like letters.

What Gear Do I Need?

As letters can be found in various locations at different heights and angles you'll probably want to take a zoom lens out on your journey with you so you can shoot wide and also at longer focal lengths without the added weight of multiple lenses weighing your bag down. 

The Search

Some letters will jump out of the subject at you with ease while others will take a little more thinking about. Make sure you carry a checklist to keep a track of letters you've captured and you may find it easier to think about one letter at a time rather than hunting for several in one go. 

This project will have you walking all over so wear a comfy pair of shoes and of you have kids, this is a great thing to get them involved in, too.

Some Suggestions 

Branches make good candidates and also rocks with holes in can make great 'A's or 'P's. Anything that looks even remotely like a letter will create a quirky and fun piece of photography. A lamp-post, for example, will make a great 'I' while the end of a bench looks like an 'L' if you look closely enough. Once you've found all of your letters, try turning them into one big collage that you can hang on your wall. You'll probably find yourself capturing the near and far, the small and large, the straight and the curved, in sunshine and shade so this project is a great way to challenge yourself and your photography skills.

A Twist On The Theme

The other thing that you could try with this theme is an A - Z of photography styles. B for Black and White, S for sepia, etc. This is probably suited to more experienced photographers who know more terminology, though.

Another more fun thing you can try is getting a group of friends to pose as all the letters of the alphabet or as mentioned above, capture objects that begin with each letter of the alphabet. If you've already tried an alphabet project why not take on a number challenge instead? 

Be experimental with this - there are no real rules other than that the photos must represent the alphabet in some way. You could make it more challenging by limiting yourself to inside or outside objects, for example. But most importantly, though, it's about having fun and enjoying your photography!

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1. Reinforce What's Important

The obvious role of negative space is to show the viewer of your image what is and what isn't important in your shot. If there's nothing else fighting for focus, their eyes will be able to settle on your main subject without searching the rest of the shot first.

2. Balance Your Shot

Negative space can make a shot appear more balanced and as a general rule, you need twice as much negative space to the area taken up by your subject. For example, if you shot a close-up portrait and your subject fills the right third of the frame, you'd want the two thirds to the left to be negative space.
 

3. Give Your Shot Context

Of course, there are times, such as when you're shooting environmental portraits where you want to make the most of the size of the place you're taking photos in, when the above rule won't apply.

With environmental portraits, it's often what's around your subject that gives the shot more interest so filling your frame with your subject would mean the context would be lost.

4. Space For Your Subject

If you do place your subject to one side of your frame make sure they're looking towards the area of negative space. The same goes for action shots where they're running through the frame as generally, your shot will be more compositionally pleasing if they have space to move into. Of course, if you're wanting them to increase the sense of speed or want to make people wonder what they're looking at, position the negative space behind them, almost pushing them out of the frame.

5. Negative Space Doesn't Have To Be 'Empty'

By using one colour in your background when shooting indoors or by throwing it out of focus if you're shooting outdoors, it won't become a point of focus for your viewer so all attention will fall on your main subject. However, sometimes adding blur to your backgrounds will leave your shot with less impact. For example, if you're out shooting portraits and behind your subject is a mountain scene, shooting with a smaller aperture so you get front to back sharpness will exaggerate the amount of negative space around them, giving the shot more meaning and impact as a result.

6. Exaggerate The Negative Space

Take the idea one step further and strip all the colour out of your shot, leaving just the shapes and space around them to tell your story. You could also remove all the textures from the shot by shooting silhouettes.

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This week, a moody image of Snowdon takes the Photo of the Week accolade.

Captured by member TomBuidhe, 'Snowdon in late Autumn' shows the peak wrapped in just enough cloud to give the landscape an Alpine feel.

Bright sunlight cuts through the heavy cloud, lighting up one side of the mountain while the rest stays in shadow. The cloud drifting around the summit gives the peak a remote and quiet mood.

Further down, the warm autumn colors on the right slope offer nice balance and add a splash of natural color.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

Once you have your tourist, postcard style shots, spend a few hours of your vacation time thinking about how you can do things a little bit differently. (Yes, we know we are talking about not doing this but the reason everyone takes these shots is that they do actually look good, most of the time. Just remember to get up early or stay out late to miss the rush of tourists so you stand a better chance of capturing people-free shots.)
 

1. Use It As A Secondary Point Of Interest

Instead of making the landmark your main point of focus, place another object in the foreground and use the landmark as background detail for your shot. You could use a larger aperture to throw it slightly out of focus but don't go too wide as you still want the landmark to be recognisable. For shots with plenty of depth of field, think like a landscape photographer, standing further back from your landmark so you can add interest in the foreground as well as the middle and background of the shot.

2. Find A New Angle

This is an obvious point that's also easier said than done sometimes but even the smallest change in composition can make a big difference to the shot. Try blurring foliage into an out of focus frame, shoot through a window or arch or look for objects your landmark can be reflected in. Shooting down into a puddle of water, particularly on a moody, wet day will give any landmark photo an interesting twist while switching from a wide lens to telephoto so you can crop in will give you a shot that's ever so subtly different but yet, still recognisable to those back home.

Watch for where the crowds go and head off in a different direction, looking for new vantage points to shoot from. This could mean climbing to get above it or trying to get lower to shoot from nearer the ground. We can't guarantee you won't get any funny looks but you should walk away with a set of unique shots. 

3. Get In Close

As landmarks are well known you don't have to get the whole structure in the frame for people to know what it is. The blue/green shade of the Statue of Liberty will be recognisable no matter how close you zoom in. In fact, the shapes created to form drapes in the statue's clothing could create an interesting abstract shot if you have a lens that can get you close enough.

4. Head Out When Other's Don't

A cloudy, rainy day will put most sight-seers off and you should take advantage of this. They'll be less bad weather shots than there are scenes with blue sky and sun. Rainy days also mean you can shoot reflections (as mentioned above). Just remember to protect your equipment as unless it's waterproof, it won't like the rain.

5. Human Interest

We said above to head out early/late to avoid crowds but including one or two people can give your landmark shot a new angle. By adding people, street vendors setting up near the landmark or people sweeping away rubbish, you add a new level of interest to what would be 'just another tourist shot'. As people have a habit of stopping what they're doing and either grinning or frowning when they see a camera pointed at them you may need to work more like a street photographer to get shots where your subject isn't posed. 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Arkwright (Day 1 - 'Creative Portraiture').

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

Day 2

Coastal Landscapes

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Day 3

The Night Sky

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Day 4

Zoom Burst

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Day 5

Fancy Dress

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Day 6

Birds Of Prey

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Day 7

Festivals

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Day 8

Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

1. Use A Wide-Angle Lens

A wide-angle lens will be the most useful bit of kit you take with you.Don't own a wide-angle lens? Take your telezoom along and just stand a little further back to get your sweeping shots of the field. 

2. Don't Trespass 

Make sure you're not trespassing so if there's no public access through a particular field you want to photograph stay out if it and use your telephoto.

3. Take Your Tripod

When using slower shutter speeds (try 1/15-1/5th or longer depending on how windy it is) you'll need a tripod as you don't want shake creeping into your shot. 

4. Straight Horizons

To get your horizon straight, you either need a really good eye or something to help you measure it. Some cameras have inbuilt levelling systems but if yours doesn't, you can get a spirit level that sits on the camera's hotshoe. Although, you can find in-built spirit levels on many tripod models.

5. Take Your Filters Along

Pack an ND filter in case the sky's a little too bright and you need to balance the exposure. 

6. Aperture Choices

Use a small aperture to get front to back sharpness, so you can show the whole field turning into a sea of waves.

7. Create Interest 

Add interest to the shot by looking out for objects such as a single tree standing at the far end of the field or a barn that will give the viewer something to focus on.

8. Guide The Eye

If there are tractor tracks use them to guide the eye from front to back. Hedges and fences can also be used for this purpose, too.

9. Use Frames

If there are overhanging tree branches, gate posts or if you happen to stumble across an old barn without glass in its windows or any doors, have a play around with frames in your shots to add an extra level of interest, plus they can help focus the viewer's eye when used in the correct way

10. Clouds Are Good

Golden light diffused by a light blanket of cloud looks great shimmering across the crop.

11. Photography The Sun

Clouds lower contrast and help eliminate flare which means you can shoot into the sun. Just don't look directly at it through your lens as it can cause serious damage to your eyes.

12. Rain Isn't A Bad Thing

Shoot in different weather conditions and at different times of the day as a dark, heavy sky full of rain adds drama to your shots while the warmer light and colours of a sunrise or sunset will make the field glow.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

What Is A 'Fast' Lens?

When you hear the term 'fast lens' it means that the lens in question has a large maximum aperture (the bigger the aperture, the faster the lens will be). The aperture is often displayed as an f followed by a number but do remember that a large maximum aperture will actually be a small number such as f/1.8. A fast prime lens would be considered fast when it has a maximum aperture under f/2.8. However, if the lens is 300mm or longer, an aperture of f/2.8 would be considered to be fast and the same goes for zoom lenses.

Let's Talk Apertures

A bigger aperture (small f-number) will allow more light to reach the camera's sensor which means faster shutter speeds can be used even in low light situations. They're useful in various shooting situations including places where flash can't be used, at concerts where there's not much ambient light, indoors when you're trying to capture movement such as dancers on stage and for subjects such as sports photography where fast shutter speeds are essential.

Nikon 50mm f/1.4D lens, Different apertures: f/1.4, f/4, f/16. More on exposure and camera settings here.

You Can Work Hand-Held

Another advantage to fast lenses is that you won't always be forced to use a tripod as the faster shutter speeds allow for hand-held shooting in more situations. This is something that's particularly useful in places where tripods aren't allowed such as in cathedrals or in busy locations where light can be an issue such as in a museum.
 

The Negatives

A downside to fast lenses is that they can be expensive and they tend to be heavier and bigger than other lenses. Care needs to be paid to focus when using autofocus as you may find it tries to focus on the wrong part of the shot, leaving focus on an area of the image that wasn't your intended subject. It's also worth investing in a good quality lens so images don't appear soft when viewed on-screen.

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The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is a huge arts festival that runs in August and even though you need tickets for many of the shows at the Fringe, you can visit the Royal Mile for free where you'll find plenty of street entertainers you can capture images of.

Due to the event's popularity and the variety of things on offer to photograph, you will see all sorts of photographic approaches so there's not really hard-and-fast rules to follow more like guidelines that'll help you capture the best of what the Fringe has to offer. Also, although taking photos is fun do remember that you're actually there to enjoy yourself so do take your eye away from the viewfinder occasionally and just enjoy the atmosphere.

Photo by Cattyal

1. Lens Choices 

A standard zoom is perfect for the sort of distances you'll be taking photos from. If you own a telezoom do take it, however, someone will more than likely get in the way if you're using a longer lens so use it for tightly-cropped shots rather than trying to get a shot from a distance. Wides can work but make the point of getting in close to fill the frame and accept that you are going to get fussy backgrounds.

2. Know Where You Are Going

Pick up a guide as it lists times as well as locations of where things are happening, plus if it's your first time visiting, there's usually a handy map included to help you find your way. The best location is on the Royal Mile where you get street performers and artists promoting their shows with mini-performances.

3. Be Patient 

It does get bustling with visitors and performers coming and going all day but hang around for long enough and you will find something to aim your lens at.

4. Take Care 

Due to how busy the Royal Mile gets remember to take care of your possessions and don't leave anything unattended. It can also get hot at this time of year, so remember to keep hydrated and you'll probably encounter a sudden downpour, too so keep a brolly handy.

Photo by  Cattyal

5. Payment For Performance 

Some performers would like a payment for posing and it is up to you if you want to make a contribution. Some of the shows are excellent and you might feel that a sample of enjoyable street theatre is worth some small change.

6. Be Polite 

As they're performing in public, on the street they tend to not mind you photographing them. However, if the opportunity arrives, it is always polite to ask them if it's OK to take a few shots. 

7. Capture Close-Ups 

As they're passionate about their performance you'll have plenty of interesting expressions and movements to photograph so get in close if the opportunity unfolds.

8. Crowd Or No Crowd? 

If there's a big crowd or the street they're on is particularly cluttered hide it by cropping in close to the performer. However, if the crowd's having a particularly good time, having them in the shot can work well in an image with the performer. Alternatively, just capture an image of the spectators watching the show. 

Photo by David Pritchard

9. Speed & Position 

Shoot quickly, watch the background and move around to explore different camera angles.

10. Different Perspective 

Performance shots are great but don't overlook capturing shots of performers scooping up change from guitar cases or moving position to set-up for the next part of their act.

11. Continuous Shooting & Focus 

Switch to continuous shooting but don't be tempted to constantly machine-gun away. Instead, take the time to watch for the key moments that are worth capturing. Continuous focusing will help you maintain focus on the street performers.

12. Shutter Priority 

Consider using Shutter Priority so you can decide how much you freeze / add motion blur to action shots. To add crowd movement to your shot you'll need a slower shutter speed and a support. Tripods take up too much space so use a monopod or even your camera bag as a support. Use a small aperture and low ISO to get the slower speeds you need. You may need to experiment to find the exact shutter speed that works but the beauty of digital means you can check the screen, adjust and take another shot.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

- Guest Post -

Getting a photograph to fit a specific format is rarely as simple as it might seem. A portrait shot may need to become a landscape, or a tightly framed image might leave no room for text overlay. These are common problems for photographers and designers working across different platforms and print sizes.

Cropping has long been the default fix, but it often removes exactly what made the image work in the first place. The alternative, extending the canvas outward, used to require painstaking manual work in editing software, with results that rarely looked convincing.

That has changed considerably with the rise of the AI image extender. These tools use generative models to examine the existing content of a photograph and fill in surrounding areas with realistic detail, matching light, colour, and texture. The results are not always perfect, but the best tools have reached a point where extended areas can be difficult to distinguish from the original. For photographers who regularly need to adapt images for different formats, knowing which tools are worth using can help save time.

1. Adobe Firefly Generative Expand

Adobe Firefly uses context-aware fill to extend any image beyond its original borders. It reads the existing lighting, perspective, and colour before generating new content around the edges. The extended area tends to sit naturally alongside the original.

 A text prompt can guide what appears in the new canvas area. If expanding a landscape photograph, typing "open sky with light cloud" gives the model a clear direction. This produces more consistent results than leaving the prompt blank. This level of control is one of the reasons Firefly stands out among the available options.

 This feature is available within the free monthly credit allowance. Photographers can try it without paying anything upfront. Adobe Firefly offers detailed control through prompts and seamless integration with Creative Cloud. For anyone already working within Adobe's creative tools, the integration with the broader editing workflow is a practical advantage.

2. Canva AI Image Expander

Canva lets users drag the canvas edge outward and fills the gap with AI-generated content. It sits inside the same editor many photographers already use for social graphics. This removes the need to switch between applications.

This works particularly well for social media crops where the subject needs more breathing room. If a portrait feels too tight for a Facebook cover, Canva can extend the background without leaving the platform. The results are generally clean on images with moderate background detail. Very busy edges can produce inconsistencies.

3. Fotor AI Image Extender

Fotor is a browser-based tool with a straightforward upload-and-extend workflow. Users upload an image, choose the direction to extend, and the AI fills the new area. No software installation is required.

It performs best on images with consistent or simple backgrounds, such as plain skies or studio shots. Busy scenes with lots of detail at the edges can produce less convincing results. It is a good idea to test on a sample image before committing to a full batch.

4. PicsArt AI Expander

PicsArt is built with mobile users in mind. Images can be extended directly from a phone without needing a desktop editor. This suits photographers who work primarily from a mobile device.

It is a practical choice for those who edit on the go before posting to Instagram or TikTok. The app handles the extension quickly. The output is ready to share without further adjustment in most cases. A free tier is available, making it accessible without a paid account.

5. PixelCut Uncrop

PixelCut is designed specifically for portraits and product shots. It focuses on the kind of tight crops that come from shooting for one format and needing to repurpose the image for another.

In regular use, aspect ratio presets within PixelCut give e-commerce photographers a way to batch-prepare photos for different storefront requirements. Amazon and eBay product listings each prefer specific canvas shapes. Selecting a preset tailored for those formats means a user can upload a batch of tightly cropped images, apply the e-commerce preset, and have every output already sized for upload. This method can help save time and may prevent repeated errors that sometimes occur when resizing many product photos to meet different marketplace standards.

6. Airbrush Image Extender

Airbrush offers one-click extension with export options sized for multiple platforms. Users upload an image and choose the output format before downloading. This keeps the process short.

The platform presets generate correctly sized outputs for Pinterest, LinkedIn, and print in a single session. Airbrush does offer a free tier, though some export options and higher-resolution downloads require a paid plan. For occasional use, the free allowance covers most standard jobs.

7. FlexClip AI Image Extender

FlexClip is a browser tool that handles both photographs and video thumbnails. It is helpful when consistent image dimensions are needed across a series of videos or posts. It works without requiring a desktop application.

Content creators who produce regular video content will find it useful for keeping thumbnail sizes uniform. The extension quality is solid for images with moderate background detail. Very complex scenes may show some inconsistency at the edges.

8. Aragon AI Photo Editor

Aragon is built for portrait and headshot use cases. It extends images with an awareness of how faces and shoulders sit within a frame. This makes it more reliable than general-purpose tools for this specific type of photograph.

This makes it a good option when reframing a headshot for a wider banner or a profile header. The results tend to hold up well when the background is relatively neutral. The tool is straightforward to use without prior editing experience.

9. PxBee AI Image Extender

PxBee is a lightweight online tool that requires no account for basic use. Users upload an image, extend it, and download the result without signing up for anything.

It is a practical solution for a quick one-off extension without committing to a new platform. The output quality is suitable for simple jobs. It is not the best option for scenes with lots of fine detail near the edges.

10. Using Your Phone's Built-In AI Expand Feature

Recent Android and iOS updates have added native generative expand tools to the default gallery app on many devices. Samsung, Google Pixel, and Apple have all introduced versions of this feature. The quality on newer handsets is often similar to what is available from standalone browser tools.

Before downloading a third-party app, it is practical to check the phone's photo editor to see whether the feature is already present. On supported devices, the built-in option is free to use. It requires no additional account or credit allowance.

Conclusion

AI image expanders now give photographers a range of options for addressing tightly cropped images or adjusting aspect ratios for various platforms. Each featured tool has specific strengths. Adobe Firefly provides detailed control and seamless integration with Creative Cloud for those working extensively on desktop. Browser-based options and mobile apps support quick tasks or editing on the move.

Trying multiple solutions with free credit allowances lets photographers compare results first-hand. The best approach is to match the solution to the level of output quality, ease of use, and platform compatibility needed. For some, a built-in phone editor handles occasional social posts. Others may rely on Firefly's prompt-driven expansion for commercial projects.

Testing tools using personal images can show both the strengths and the limits of current AI models. Regular review helps ensure that the chosen solution continues to meet quality standards for both creative and client work. This can lead to more flexibility and efficiency whenever an image needs extra breathing room.

Zoos and wildlife parks are great places to get up close with wildlife, but the fences and glass keeping us and the animals safe can cause a few problems for photographers.

Height Is An Issue

Fences often rise above eye level and the tops aren't in easy reach (for good reason) so you can't hold your camera up above it to take your shots. As a result, we often have to take photos with the cage in front of us but this doesn't mean the fence has to appear and as a result spoiling the shot.

Sometimes it's easy to capture fence-free shots as the gaps in the mesh are just big enough for a lens to be poked through, however, when it's not, you'll have to use a few other tricks to capture your wildlife shot. 

Close With Wide Apertures

One way is to get as close to the fence as possible and select a wider aperture. Then, line up your lens so it's over a gap or if they're too small, try and wait so the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap. Once the animal has put some distance between them and the fence, take your shot. The fence will, hopefully, be thrown our of focus, thanks to the reduced depth-of-field, so you won't even notice it while your subject will be sharp. 

You may find that Auto Focus tries to focus on the fence rather than your subject so switch to manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp. 

Longer Lenses

If you are using a lens that doesn't have a particularly wide aperture then don't worry; you'll still be able to capture a mesh-free shot with a longer focal range. If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program. 

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‘Icon’ messenger bag in four colour combinations

Billingham has unveiled the Icon, a new messenger bag joining its leisure range for the demands of modern everyday carry. Inspired by the brand's iconic Hadley Original, it's been redesigned with today's user in mind, offering smart organisation and versatility for work, travel and daily life, without losing the craftsmanship Billingham is known for. Made from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte with full-grain leather and solid brass fittings, and still made at the company's own factory in England, the Icon gives existing fans a well organised lifestyle alternative to their photographic bags, while opening the door to professionals, commuters and travellers.

From Billingham:

Billingham is proud to introduce the latest addition to its leisure range – the ‘Icon’. A highly requested messenger bag inspired by our iconic Hadley Original, thoughtfully redesigned for everyday use to meet the evolving needs of today’s customer while staying true to the brand’s heritage of craftsmanship and durability.

Built in Billingham’s best-selling format, the Icon seamlessly blends timeless design with a highly functional everyday carry (EDC) and lifestyle layout. It has been carefully developed to support modern routines, offering enhanced organisation and versatility for work, travel, and daily use.

At the heart of the Icon is its commitment to premium materials. Each bag is constructed from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte, complemented by full-grain leather and solid brass fittings. This combination ensures long-lasting performance while maintaining the distinctive aesthetic that defines the brand.

Functionality is central to the design. The Icon features a full-width internal pocket capable of holding up to a 14” laptop with a case, along with a wide zippered pocket for secure storage—now housing a discreet compartment designed to hold an AirTag for
added peace of mind.

Inside, users benefit from a bottle holder, front slip pockets, and medium-height net hammock pockets for organising smaller essentials. A solid brass key loop is also located inside the bag for easy access and everyday convenience. Externally, expanding front dump pockets provide additional quick-access storage.

Designed with comfort and travel in mind, the Icon features a sewn in, 50mm adjustable shoulder sling and includes the SP50 Shoulder Pad. A luggage retainer strap allows the bag to be securely attached to rolling luggage, making it an ideal companion for frequent travellers. The inclusion of Hadley Pro Front Straps with the quick release system, reinforces both the bag’s reliability and its unmistakable Billingham identity.

Finished with a refined UI label and carefully matched components throughout, the Icon represents a balance of heritage styling and contemporary functionality.

“The Icon reflects what our customers value most—durability, organisation, and timeless design,” said Harry Billingham. “It’s a natural evolution of our range, created for modern lifestyles without compromising the craftsmanship we’re known for.”

The Billingham Icon is designed for professionals, commuters, and travellers seeking a premium everyday bag that delivers both style and substance. For customers that already know and love our brand and photographic bags, this bag provides a wellorganised everyday lifestyle alternative.

Inside the ‘Icon’ messenger bag

Crafted in England

All bags are cut, stitched, and finished at the company’s factory in the West Midlands, where skilled craftspeople combine traditional techniques with modern materials. The launch reinforces the company’s long-standing commitment to British manufacturing and meticulous quality control.

Availability

The ‘Icon’ is available to purchase now, directly from our website and from authorised retailers.

For more information, please visit the Billingham's website.

© DJI

If you've ever tried filming with a smartphone for more than a few minutes, you'll probably know where the compromises start to show. While today's flagship phones capture impressive footage, they still can't quite match the combination of dedicated image quality, reliable stabilization, and creator-focused features that purpose-built cameras deliver.

That's exactly where the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 continues to shine.

Designed for vloggers, travellers, and anyone creating video content on a regular basis, the Pocket 3 packs premium camera hardware into a body that's small enough to fit in your pocket. Better still, DJI is currently offering a limited-time discount on the Creator Combo, making now an excellent opportunity to upgrade your filming setup.

Between July 22 and August 9, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is available for $549, reduced from its regular $629 price, saving buyers $80.

A compact camera that doesn't feel compromised

One of the biggest reasons the Osmo Pocket 3 has remained popular is that it removes much of the complexity that comes with traditional cameras.

Instead of carrying interchangeable lenses, an external gimbal, microphones, and additional accessories, creators get an all-in-one device that's ready to shoot in seconds. Whether you're documenting a holiday, filming a YouTube video, recording B-roll for client work, or simply capturing family moments, the Pocket 3 is designed to make the process as effortless as possible.

Its compact size also means you're far more likely to bring it with you than a larger mirrorless camera, making it an ideal everyday companion for spontaneous filming. 

Bigger sensor, better-looking footage

At the heart of the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 sits a 1-inch CMOS sensor, which is one of its biggest advantages over a smartphone.

The larger sensor gathers significantly more light, allowing it to produce cleaner footage with improved detail, stronger dynamic range, and noticeably better low-light performance. Whether you're shooting indoors, during sunrise or sunset, or in challenging lighting conditions, the Pocket 3 consistently delivers a more polished, cinematic result than you'd expect from such a compact device.

For creators looking to elevate the overall quality of their content without stepping into the world of larger interchangeable-lens cameras, it's a compelling middle ground.

Smooth video without carrying a separate gimbal

Anyone who's looked back at shaky handheld footage knows just how important stabilization can be.

Rather than relying entirely on digital stabilization, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 features a built-in 3-axis mechanical gimbal that actively smooths movement while you record. The result is fluid-looking footage while walking, travelling, or filming on the move, without needing to mount your camera onto a separate stabilizer.

It's particularly useful for travel creators, event coverage, behind-the-scenes filming, and everyday vlogging where speed and simplicity matter. 

Built for modern content creation

Content today rarely stays on one platform, and DJI has clearly designed the Pocket 3 with that in mind.

Its 2-inch rotating touchscreen makes switching between landscape and portrait recording almost instantaneous, making it equally comfortable creating long-form YouTube videos or vertical clips for TikTok, Instagram Reels, and Shorts.

The display also makes self-recording much easier, helping solo creators frame themselves accurately without needing an external monitor.

A camera that suits almost any creator

The DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is well suited to a huge variety of filming scenarios, including:

• Travel videos
• YouTube content
• Daily vlogs
• Social media clips
• Lifestyle content
• Behind-the-scenes footage
• Everyday memories and family events

Because the Creator Combo bundles together additional accessories, it offers a more complete package for anyone wanting to start creating content straight away.

An excellent time to pick one up

Even several years after launch, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 remains one of the strongest compact creator cameras available. It strikes an impressive balance between portability, image quality, ease of use, and professional-looking results without requiring the investment or learning curve of a larger camera system.

With DJI's current promotion running from July 22 through August 9, the Creator Combo becomes an even more attractive option. At $549, down from $629, it's an excellent opportunity to save $80 on a camera that continues to be one of the easiest ways to produce high-quality video wherever you go.

View This Deal

1. Gear Suggestions

If you arrive before the crowds then a 50mm lens is perfect for capturing people in costume but when the masses arrive or if you like to have a little more versatility, pack a zoom lens that gives you wide to mid-range focal lengths. A tripod's always helpful, particularly if you're heading to the dance in the evening when the light will be lower. They can be a little clunky and can get in the way though so you may like the flexibility a monopod gives you instead. Flash may be handy in the evening, but you could just turn up your ISO slightly or pop your camera on a tripod and use slightly longer shutter speeds.
 

2. Picking A Subject

When you arrive you'll find plenty of people dressed in 1940s clobber and RAF uniforms who are perfect for a nostalgic portrait shot or two. Some people will be so fabulously dressed they'll just shout: 'photograph me' at you but make sure you take a good walk around to see who else is hiding among the vehicles and stalls. You could get a few candid snaps of the crowds as you do so too.

3. Ask If It's OK

When you do find your subject make sure you ask their permission and don't be in a hurry to photograph them where they stand as you could look back and realise you have a modern car or burger van ruining your shot. You can try and throw the ugly background out of focus but if you have the time, make the effort to chat to your subject and ask them to move somewhere that's more appropriate. You still may want to throw the background out of focus and leave all the attention on your subject, but at least the blurred objects and shapes will be more fitting to the era you're trying to capture. If you can, do take your time when you're looking through the viewfinder and pay particular attention to their costume. It's amazing how straightening a skirt or fastening up a button can make a big difference to the overall shot.

4. Capture Movement

If you hang around for the dance you'll need fast shutter speeds to freeze the action on the dance floor or put your camera on a tripod and slow your shutter speeds to blur the movement of the skirts/dresses as they spin around. There will also be plenty of candids off the dance floor such as to capture too. 
 

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- Partner Content -

Capturing the best possible quality of a video in-camera on set is mostly the best approach. Still, there are occasions when post-processing helps rescue low-quality videos or refine HD videos for better visual experiences.

When comparing and testing the best video enhancers, the following aspects are taken into consideration. You can refer to them when picking the best fit for your scenarios.

• Natural look and enhancement strength: Does the output remain realistic? Can users fine-tune the enhancement manually instead of over-processing the footage?
• Temporal consistency: Does the enhanced video remain smooth and free of flickering?
• Noise reduction and detail restoration: Can the video enhancer remove unwanted noise while preserving natural textures and intentional film grain?
• Processing speed: Besides hardware performance, how efficiently does the software utilize available CPU and GPU resources?
• Workflow flexibility: Is it a standalone application, an online service, or a plugin? Can it fit into different editing workflows?

Testing Video Enhancers for Various Scenarios

Bearing in mind these aspects, I evaluated each video enhancement software and online app using footage of various types and with different quality issues.

The tests start with Aiarty Video Enhancer, with comparisons in the case studies below. You can claim a Free License from Aiarty to access the full features and check if it fits your projects.

The same clips were also processed with popular tools, including Topaz Video, DaVinci Resolve, and several open-source models and online video enhancers. Their strengths vary depending on the footage, workflow, and hardware, as summarized in the comparison chart.

Case 1: Enhance Low-Resolution Videos and Restore Skin Details

Portrait videos can appear blurry on a larger screen or when reframed for different platforms. AI-powered video enhancement software helps restore clarity while preserving skin details.

Aiarty Video Enhancer offers both AI-powered automatic enhancement and manual fine-tuning, making it easy to balance detail recovery with a natural output while avoiding an over-sharpened or painterly look. For this clip, I applied the superVideo vHQ model, manually set the enhancement strength to around 0.85-0.9, and slightly adjusted the exposure to better suit the indoor environment.

For the same footage, Topaz Video produced good results with the Iris model, Recover Detail set to 20 to 25, and 2x upscaling for higher output quality.

Case 2: Fix Noisy and Low-light Footage

Below is a mobile recording of a harbor near Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg. It was captured at dawn under limited lighting, and the small sensor of the iPhone 6 makes the footage grainy and noisy.

After processing the clip in Aiarty Video Enhancer, the superVideo model automatically reduces distracting noise, while manually setting the enhancement strength to around 0.9-0.95 helps preserve fine grain and texture for a more natural look.

Case 3: Restore Soft, Old Videos and Enhance Quality

This clip of the Prague Astronomical Clock was shot with Olympus E-M10 II about a decade ago. It was uploaded as a travel memory to share with friends and later downloaded again. 

Partly due to digital zoom and partly due to online compression, the old footage now looks somewhat soft and blurry. The intricate structures of the clock and the Gothic sculptures are less clear.

After enhancing it with Aiarty Video Enhancer, both the moDetail-HQ model and the superVideo vHQ model help restore architectural details, fix softness, and avoid a mushy look. Optionally, upscaling the video by 2x to 4K and manually increasing the exposure by +1 further improves the overall video quality.

The above test cases also produced good results in DaVinci Resolve using AI Noise Reduction and Super Scale, and in Topaz Video using the Film 4K Medium model with manual adjustments.

Best Free and Paid Video Enhancers Hands-On

Topaz Video

• Ideal for: Professionals with powerful workstations and videographers already working within the video editing ecosystem.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows, Mac, web, Adobe and DaVinci integration. $59/month for Personal, $69/month for Topaz Studio.

Topaz Video is a widely used AI video enhancer. It pioneered commercial diffusion-based video enhancement with Project Starlight to generate details for videos. Topaz combines several AI models into project-based workflows, including 4K video upscaling, noise removal, SDR to HDR, frame interpolation, video stabilization, motion deblur, and face recovery.

Depending on the video type or quality issue, users can process footage with different models, render previews, and adjust parameters to recover detail, improve sharpness, or restore focus.

Enhancing with Topaz: Proteus or Iris model, AI upscaling, Recover Detail+38, other manual tweaks

Comparing the available models, I recommend using Proteus Natural for overall enhancement and dehaloing, Nyx for noise removal, Iris for face restoration, and Starlight for severely degraded videos or gradual upscaling from 480p to 720p and then to 1440p. With the introduction of NeuroServer, Starlight variants can also run locally on systems with sufficient VRAM and a powerful GPU.

If your local hardware struggles with computationally intensive enhancement tasks, such as Strong Refocus or Starlight restoration, you can purchase cloud credits to process the footage online.

Aiarty Video Enhancer

• Ideal for: Videographers, content creators, and home users seeking a standalone tool and prioritizing natural, realistic video quality enhancement.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows and Mac. $165 Lifetime License, $79 Standard License, free trials available.

Aiarty Video Enhancer is a popular choice for users needing a standalone video enhancer with natural output quality. It avoids an over-smoothed, plastic look by providing tailored deep learning models with manual strength controls.

As shown in the previous tests, it uses AI-powered auto inference to reduce high ISO noise, improve the clarity of soft footage, restore skin details, and preserve natural textures. Optionally, you can upscale low-resolution videos to 2K or 4K, adjust colors, increase the frame rate, and enhance audio quality.

Enhancing with Aiarty: superVideo model, x2 upscale, 0.85-0.90 strength, subtle color adjustments

With the real-time previewer, it is straightforward for users to quickly compare models and parameter settings, helping them find the best combination for a specific video before committing to the output.

With the Step Mode and Turbo speed choices, Aiarty scales well from everyday computers to high-end workstations. Casual users can enhance videos on a general device, while demanding restoration tasks and batch 4K upscaling benefit from more powerful GPUs.

DaVinci Resolve

• Ideal for: Videographers, colorists, and serious content creators.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows, Mac, and Linux. Studio version for $295, Free version without AI tools.

DaVinci Resolve is a fully-fledged video editor and color grading software. With editing features to sharpen videos, fix blurry footage, enhance contrast, and remove noise, you can surely use it as the best free video enhancer for desktops.

The free version offers powerful manual tools to improve your footage. You can fix underexposed videos, dehaze mushy footage, recover shadow detail, and pull back crushed highlights. For faithful enhancement, you can rely on traditional sharpening, timeline upscaling with Bicubic algorithms, and color corrections.

Tips: Use shortcut key Ctrl+= to zoom in and inspect details. For full screen preview, press Ctrl+F.

Testing DaVinci Resolve: 2X Super Scale (1080p to 2160p), 0.5 Sharpness

In the Studio version, you can unlock more AI features powered by the DaVinci Neural Engine. AI UltraNR, AI Ultra Sharpen, and Super Scale handle more challenging videos when traditional methods fail.

Since DaVinci adopts a node-based pipeline, you can apply quality enhancements in a non-destructive way and compare the results. A good rule of thumb is to remove noise when necessary, then apply color corrections and sharpening.

TensorPix

• Ideal for: Beginners and casual creators enhancing a few low-resolution videos, without installation.
• Platforms and pricing: Online enhancer. Free trial (1 credit equals roughly 2-min video enhancement), standard plan starts from $12.00/month.

TensorPix is a simple-to-use AI video enhancer online. It supports 2x and 4x video upscaling, artifact removal, FPS boost, and audio enhancement. Once you upload a short video to their server, you can specify whether the video is mainly about portrait, anime, landscape, AIGC, or other types. This gives the AI model better context before processing.

Testing Tensorpix: 960p to 2160p. Parameters: 4X Upscale ultra4, Clear Edge-AI sharpen 2.5

While local tools such as Topaz and Aiarty focus on natural detail restoration and 4K upscaling, TensorPix works for short-form videos and webcam captures. For quality problems such as dust and scratches from digitized 8mm tape, you can enable AI Dust Buster to make the video clearer.

Video2X

• Ideal for: Tech-savvy users and enthusiasts mainly focused on anime restoration and upscaling.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows and Linux (Free, Open Source); Online (Video2X Pro subscription)

Being open-source and free, Video2X wins the love of tech-savvy users to enhance video quality and resolution. Initially built to upscale and sharpen anime footage, most of its baked-in algorithms and models were suitable for cartoons and animations.

The developer of Video2X gradually integrates Real-ESRGAN models for live-action video upscaling and RIFE for frame interpolation. To avoid a cartoonish look on real-world videos, make sure you are using the correct filters and models.

Testing Video2X: source 720x1366; enhanced 2880x5464. Model: realesrgan-plus vs realcugan

Based on my test, here are tips to use a suitable model:

For the Real-ESRGAN processing, go with the realesrgan-plus model for camera-shot footage, and the other two models are for anime. If you prefer to be more conservative and fix soft animation, use Real-CUGAN models. For noisy, old animation, or digitized VHS animation captures, use models-se; for 720p source, use models-pro. If the models somehow smooth out the contrast along lines, you can experiment with the models-nose algorithms for a fix.

As shown in the comparison screenshot above, using Realcugan on real-world video can result in cartoonish lines.

Note for Mac users: Video2X only runs on Windows and Linux for now. You can use it via a browser with Google Colab for free sessions. The Video2X Pro offers online video upscaling and quality enhancement, starting from $14.90/month.

Wink Video Enhancer

• Ideal for: Reels, short-form videos, and social media content in general; Video enhancement on the go.
• Platforms and pricing: Online Video Enhancer, iOS and Android apps. Complimentary 100 credits, standard plan starts from $14.99/month.

Wink Video Enhancer works both as a video enhancer and beautifier via mobile and online. It includes modules for video repair, upscaling, expansion, retouching, denoising, and color correction.

Testing Wink Video Enhancer: Video repair module, auto enhancement, 1080p to 2160p

For video quality fixes, the app prioritizes auto-enhancement over manual editing. During my tests, after uploading this cropped kingfisher video, Wink would analyze and display the quality problems. It then automatically applied enhancement to the clip. 

For portrait videos, Wink also helps smooth skin, whiten teeth, and adjust lighting accordingly. To some degree, the beauty-filter aesthetic is a matter of personal preference.

Tip: If you are looking for granular manual tuning and professional cinematic restoration, Topaz Video and Aiarty Video Enhancer are designed for these scenarios.

Replicate

• Ideal for: Enthusiasts exploring AI models for video enhancement, video face restoration, colorization, and super-resolution.
• Platforms and pricing: Web; pay-as-you-go pricing based on compute usage. Some models also offer free trial runs.

At first glance, Replicate might seem out of place in this list of the best video enhancer tools. Rather than being a standalone app or online video enhancer, it's a cloud platform that hosts AI models for media generation and video quality enhancement.

Replicate has a dedicated collection page of AI models to enhance videos. It hosts video upscalers from Crystal and Topazlabs, a Stable video face restoration (SVFR) tool, a deodify video colorizer, animation video super resolution models, and many others.

Based on my tests, a seamless workflow is to complete the video restoration process first and leave video upscaling as the final step. 

For instance, for portrait videos with low-resolution faces, use GFPGAN Video or SVFR for face restoration; for old black-and-white footage, use DeOldify Video for colorization. In the final step, choose Real-ESRGAN Video, Topaz Video Upscale, or AnimeSR based on your video type, desired quality, and budget. 

Key Takeaways 

For users who have already tried other tools before reading this blog, you have probably experienced some common frustrations: waiting a long time for processing only to get unnatural, over-processed, painterly results; or using a free open-source workflow that comes with a steep learning curve.

Depending on your specific needs, expectations, skill level, and budget, you can choose from the best video enhancement software and web tools below.

For first-time users, hobbyists, and content creators who want high-quality results without going through dozens of installations and hours of testing, a practical approach is to start with one or two tools, test them with two or three common scenarios, and pay attention to these aspects:

• All-around video enhancement: Upscaling to 2K and 4K, noise reduction, low-light enhancement, deblurring, compression artifact removal, deinterlacing old videos, audio cleanup, color correction, and frame interpolation for low FPS footage.
• Natural-looking results: Look for tailored AI models and adjustable parameters that enhance different types of footage without creating an over-sharpened or painterly appearance.

Based on the above tests, Aiarty Video Enhancer offers balanced combinations of natural visual quality, enhancement capabilities, ease of use, and hardware compatibility. If you'd like to evaluate it with your own footage, you can start with the Free License from Aiarty Video Enhancer and see whether it fits your workflows and restoration needs.

Zoom burst photography is a photography technique that is achieved by zooming your lens in or out whilst the exposure is being taken. It's a great technique for exaggerating movement or for just adding an abstract feel to an image. Colourful subjects or scenes with patterns work well as they help create a really striking zoom burst that's full of bright, colourful lines.

1. Equipment Check List

To get the desired effect, you'll need your zoom lens and a tripod, to keep the image steady, plus this will allow you to have your hands free to smoothly control the zoom. A zoom with a good range to play with will mean you can get a really even effect, with some nice long streaks guiding the eye through the image. You'll also need a remote or cable release to eliminate any shake caused by pressing the shutter. If you don't have one, then use the self-timer setting on your camera. Using the flash on your camera or an external flash gun can help to add sharpness and freeze the image too.

2. Get The Zoom Right

The key to success with this technique is to get the amount of zoom burst right. If the zoom is too obvious then it may disguise the subject. If you don't zoom enough, then the image won't have the desired effect. You don't want your exposure to be too long, otherwise, your shots will be overexposed, but it needs to be long enough to enable you to create the zoom effect.

To create the effect you can zoom in or out, most people choose to zoom out. Press the shutter and wait for a while, around half to three-quarters of the exposure should do it, and then you need to zoom out in a smooth and fast manner. Leaving the image to develop for half to three-quarters of the exposure beforehand allows some definition to be captured in the image before the zoom is added. Try somewhere between 1-3 seconds for your starting exposure length and extended if it's needed. If you can, it's worth locking the focus, too so it stays constant.

Use a small aperture and an ISO of 100 or 200 for the best results. If you find that your images come out overexposed, it's probably best not to make the exposure time shorter as this will make it more difficult to fit the zoom in. Fit a polarising filter or ND filter instead and try again.
 

3. Experiment & Try Again

It's then quick and easy to see on the screen if your attempt was successful. If it wasn't, you can try again straight away. Experiment with the shutter speed and zoom timing until you find something that works for you and your subject. You may find you need to crop the shot for better composition but as the vanishing point will be in the middle of the frame, this won't cause any problems.

To be different, why not zoom in, try a shorter zoom, experiment with city lights at night or rotate the lens to add circular shape to your lines? If one idea doesn't work just delete the image and try again.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

An exciting black and white shot of a little girl that's full of energy with a great sense of speed has won our 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) award on ePHOTOzine.

'In a Spin' was captured by PeterDavidson and we loved the spot-on timing, composition and genuine feeling of this fun action portrait. The fast motion blur in the background makes it stand out and conveys thrill and excitement in a very authentic way. It hooks you immediately and once you spot the image in the Gallery, you naturally keep looking right at the girl's wide-eyed face. There is often beauty in a candid moment and this photo is an excellent example of this.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

The longer reach of telephoto lenses is a brilliant thing for photographers who want to photograph shy wildlife, pull far away subjects closer or simply want to fill the frame to create an attention-grabbing shot. 

To show you just how versatile a telephoto lens can be, we've got a top list of 8 ways these long lenses can be used. Plus, should you be in the market for a new telephoto lens, we have quite a few top telephoto lenses featured in our top lists which include both Telephoto Prime Lenses and Telephoto Zoom Lenses. 

If you're not sure if you should purchase a zoom or prime lens, have a read of this tutorial: Prime Vs Zoom Lenses

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Here Are Our 8 Top Ways To Use A Telephoto Lens:

1. Bring Far Subjects Close

© Joshua Waller

The telephoto effect these lenses have make objects, that may actually have quite a lot of distance between them, appear as if they're sat close together. The longer your focal length, the more obvious the effect will be. It's useful when you have a city skyline or mountains in the background which will give you a more interesting and pleasing shot if they're pulled a little closer to the object closer to your lens e.g. the bridge, building or boulder that's your main point of focus.

2. Fill The Frame

© Joshua Waller

When you want to exclude some part of what's in your frame e.g. a boring grey sky that's in the background of your landscape shot, use a telephoto lens to focus in on the colourful tree line rather than having the trees and sky in shot. It'll also pull a distant subject closer to you, which means you can get frame-filling shots of shy wildlife or of a particular aspect of the landscape that's too far for you to get to.

3. Pick Distant Subjects Out

© Joshua Waller

If you want to draw attention to a particular aspect that would be lost if shot with a wider focal length, use a telephoto lens to isolate your subject. You can do this with shorter focal lengths, but the longer reach of a telephoto means you can isolate a subject that's some distance away from where you're shooting from.

4. Capture Shots Of Wildlife

© Richard Hanson

As a telephoto lens closes the distance between you and whatever you're photographing, it's an ideal lens for photographing wildlife. With a telephoto lens you'll be able to take shots that look like you were just a few steps away from your subject when really you were some distance away. This distance means your subject won't be scared off and if you're shooting what could be considered as a dangerous animal, the distance makes it safer for you.

5. Photograph The Moon

© Joshua Waller

Your shots won't be as good as those who use telescopes, but you can still get excellent shots of the moon with a long telephoto lens. As well as a very long lens you also need a tripod, clear skies, good weather, remote/cable release, a few hours to spare and good technique. You can even take a number of shots, and combine multiple shots to produce a sharper image.

6. Portraits

© Joshua Waller

Shooting head or head and shoulder shots with a longer focal length can give a better perspective and allows for a tighter crop when working further away from your subject. This distance also means you don't have to work too close to your subject and as a result, they'll be more comfortable, and you'll have more natural-looking portraits. You'll also be able to capture shots without any distortion and backgrounds are more easily thrown out of focus, even when they are just a couple of meters behind your subject, meaning all focus falls directly on your subject. Just keep an eye on your shutter speed if working hand-held, though, as you don't want shake spoiling your shot. Find more tips on shooting portraits.

7. Shallow Depth Of Field

© Joshua Waller

As mentioned above, telephoto lenses make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds in photos that isolate your subject and really make them the focus of your shot. You don't want a distracting background detail competing for the viewer's attention and a shallow depth of field will make sure this doesn't happen.

8. Capture Action

© Joshua Waller

For fast-paced action that you can't get close to e.g. motorsport and flying events, you'll need the longer focal lengths telephotos give you as most of the time, it'll be impossible to get close to the action. To create a sense of pace, use your telephoto lens to shoot a few shots where your subject is sharp but the background is nicely thrown out of focus. How good you are at panning, what shutter speed you use, how fast your subject is moving and how much light's around will make this task harder / easier every time you head to the track, but do it a few times and you'll soon perfect your technique.

More Top Tips

How about picking up some top composition tips that will help you perfect the shots you capture with your telephoto lens? There are also hundreds of top tutorials to read in our 'How To' section of the site. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 30 - 'Beautiful Bokeh').

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

Day 25

'Hot' Theme

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Day 26

Ruins

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Day 27

Big, Bold Skies

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Day 28

Black & White Buildings

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Day 29

Eyes

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Day 31

'Yellow' Colour Theme

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

It's the school summer holidays here in the UK which means many will be heading to the coast either on day-trips or for a longer holiday which gives us photographers the chance to capture a few coastal landscapes. If you do have coastal landscapes on your summer shoot agenda, here are a few tips to think about.

1. Time Of Day

You can capture coastal landscapes at any time of the day, however, most photographers favour the light during the 'golden hours'. You get this light regardless of where you are, but it is where it falls that is important. On the east coast, the land gets warm light early in the day but not later when the sea gets the benefit. On the west coast, it is the other way round. But this is a massive generalisation because of the way the coastline is not made up of straight lines. Check an OS map to see the potential of the coastline you're visiting and do your research online to ensure you don't miss the best light.

It's also worth noting that everything from blue skies dotted with white clouds to brewing storm clouds can work well at the coast, you just have to be out at the right time of day with the right gear which includes waterproofs and protection for your camera gear if you're heading out when the heavens have opened.

2. Pack The Right Accessories

Wide-angle lenses will be what we tend to reach for first when landscapes are in-mind and a tripod is an essential piece of kit no landscape photographer should be without. As you could be working with lower light levels and slower shutter speeds you may want to consider taking a remote / cable release to reduce the risk of camera shake and make sure image stabilisation is switched off when supporting your kit on a tripod otherwise shake could be introduced. To balance the exposure, you may find an ND grad filter handy as the sky tends to be a lot brighter than other areas of your shot.

3. Foreground interest

There's nothing wrong with a photo of an empty beach stretching out for what seems to be miles but by adding some foreground interest you'll give your image more depth, help guide the eye through the shot and keep people interested in your photo for longer. A low angle and a wide-angle lens will help exaggerate the perspective of the shot and anything from rocks and wood that's washed up after a storm to jetties, lobster pots and patterns in the sand can be used to add interest the foreground of your shot. Just remember you'll need a smaller aperture to get everything from the front to the back of the shot in focus. This could increase the exposure time, particularly if you're shooting during the 'golden hours', so make use of your tripod.

Reflections can be used as foreground interest to add more depth to a scene. They'll also help brighten your foreground, making the overall shot more evenly lit. Look for puddles left by the receding tide or try using the water sat in rock pools to capture reflections of a cloud-dotted or sunset sky.

4. Long exposures

If you're working when the light's lower or just like the 'misty' water effect, you're going to need to use slower shutter speeds. For this, you need a strong, sturdy tripod and you must make sure it's not going to topple over if a wave circles it. Try pushing the legs into the sand slightly to anchor its position; just remember to wash the feet when you get home to get rid of the sand and salt. If it's a particularly bright day you'll need an ND filter to reduce the amount of light reaching the camera's sensor and remember to use low ISOs as well as a small aperture. If you don't want to capture the 'blurred' water shot, you'll need to use quicker shutter speeds, wider apertures and you may need to increase your ISO level. Alternatively, visit the location earlier / later (depending on the time of day) when there's still plenty of light in the sky.

A blurry sky dotted with clouds will give you the chance to create patterns as the longer exposures cause the cloud's movement to stretch across the sky and if you wait until the sun's set you could capture the movement of the stars as trails above the ocean, but this is a wholly different technique in itself.

5. Horizons

You don't want it to look like the sea and sand's about to slide out of shot so make sure the horizon's straight and don't put it in the centre of the frame. If the sky's more interesting move the horizon down but if there's more interest in the foreground lose some of the sky and move the horizon up. If you are going to deliberately slope the horizon make sure you make it obvious otherwise it'll just look like you've not looked through the viewfinder to check if the horizon's level or not.

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Photo by Joshua Waller

Aperture is very important when it comes to portraiture as it controls how much of the background and foreground is in focus, which has an effect on how much of the focus is on the subject of your portrait. 

1. Depth-Of-Field

There is an amount of front and back sharpness in front of and behind the main focus point of your image and this is referred to as the depth-of-field.

The amount of depth-of-field within an image depends on several factors:

• The distance between the camera and the subject - The closer the subject the more shallow the depth-of-field. With distant scenes, therefore, there is plenty of depth-of-field.
• Choice of lens aperture - The wider the lens aperture (ie /2.8, f/4) the shallower the depth-of-field, and the smaller the aperture (f/16, f/22) the greater the depth-of-field.
• Focal length - Contrary to popular belief a wide-angle lens does not give greater depth-of-field than a telephoto lens if the subject magnification is the same. You can test this for yourself. Take a frame-filling headshot with a wide-angle lens (you will have to get close to the subject, so warn them!) and then do the same frame-filling shot with a telephoto – this means backing away from the subject. Use the same aperture for both and you will see that the depth-of-field is the same.

Some cameras come equipped with a depth-of-field preview button, letting you see how much depth-of-field you have before taking the shot, but you can just experiment with depth-of-field and preview the shots on-screen to see what works best if your camera doesn't have this particular function. 

Photo by Joshua Waller

2. Photographing People

In terms of portraits, especially outdoors, wider lens apertures are often best because they throw the background nicely out of focus. How effective this is depends on the scene and focal length as well as aperture choice. If your subject is standing quite close to a distracting background even shooting at f/2.8 or f/4 will not throw the background out of focus but bringing the subject forward a couple of metres should work nicely.

If you do use a wide aperture for your portraits, do make doubly sure that the subject's eyes are in focus. With the shallow depth-of-field created by wide apertures, even a small error can mean unsharp eyes and you do not want that in your portraits.

Photo by Joshua Waller

3. Bokeh Backgrounds

How the background is thrown out of focus depends on the lens. Bokeh is the term used to describe the pictorial quality of the out of focus blur. Lens design and aperture shape play a large part in how effective its bokeh is, so do try it with your own optics. A good test is shooting a close-up portrait outside against a background with some bright pinpoints of light, ie sun glinting off water, car lights, streetlamps etc.

Of course, you might prefer greater sharpness in your backgrounds and that is when small apertures are used. The important thing is to keep your eye on the background and if it looks messy or cluttered use wide apertures rather than small ones.

Photo by Joshua Waller

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