This is the Denali Report for July 2nd, 2026

As of mid-week, there were 981 climbers registered to climb Denali and 19 people registered to attempt Mt. Foraker. There are 84 climbers currently on Denali and no climbers currently on Mt. Foraker.  897 mountaineers have finished their expeditions.

Most of the climbers that are still in the Alaska Range are at High Camp, waiting for a summit bid or are on their way down. Kahiltna Base Camp Coordinator, Gabby Faurot, flew into the range early this week to begin removing Base Camp.

This was the first season in years that there wasn’t one primary Base Camp Manager to assist during the entire climbing season. Instead, Faurot flew to the Kahiltna Glacier to set up camp in mid-April. After that, she coordinated with a group of about eight trained specialists that flew in for approximately one week stints. 

Faurot says the new system is working well. She says it’s easier to get people to fill in for a week or two then to find people who can commit for the entire two month period.

Given good weather, Faurot expects Base Camp will be removed by the end of the holiday weekend. The National Park Service has not published summit rates for the 2026 climbing season, but they say they plan to publish that data later in the year.

 You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Kahiltna Base Camp: Photo by Morgan McGonagle via NPS

This is the Denali Report for Friday, June 26th, 2026.

There are currently 981 climbers registered to climb Denali this year. As of mid-week, 128 of them are on the mountain and 853 have finished their expeditions. There are currently 19 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker, and all nineteen are now off the mountain.

Teams that are still in the Range have shifted to climbing at night at the lower elevations. With June’s increased solar energy, higher temperatures translate to slushy snow during the day. Teams under 14,000 feet mainly travel after midnight when temperatures drop and the snow forms a walkable crust. 

At the upper elevations, temperatures are colder overall and climbers tend to shift to a later start. Once the full sun hits the glacier, temperatures warm up quickly.

The majority of guided expeditions have reported finishing their climbs for the season. The remaining few are high on the mountain or making their way down. The success rate for expeditions that began their climbs after May 15th is quite high this year.

Three Talkeetna-based organizations involved with operations on Denali are celebrating anniversaries this year. 

The current owners of Talkeetna Air Taxi, K2 Aviation and the Alaska Mountaineering School, are all celebrating 30 years of assisting climbers in the Alaska Range.

According to the National Park Service website, It’s also the 50th anniversary of the first solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge as well as the peak’s first hang glider descent.

The first successful hang glider descent from the peak of Denali took place in June 1976.  According to the American Alpine club, the pilots hauled their 60-pound gliders to the summit, launched from the summit ridge and flew for about 30 minutes down to the 7,000-foot level. 

Hang gliding on Denali is quite dangerous. During that 1976 expedition, an attempt on the South Face resulted in a crash shortly after takeoff. The pilot tumbled thousands of feet before the hang glider caught in the snow and halted his fall. 

Today, flying non-motorized aircraft off Denali is highly restricted. The National Park Service regulates launching, landing, and dropping objects in Park areas.  You’ve been listening to the Denali Report. 

For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Photo by NPS Ranger Scotty Barrier: Clouds building adjacent to 14,200’ camp from High Camp

Clear weather has been aiding the success of climbers.  And, this week, we remember one of Denali’s most impactful rangers.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has the Denali Report.

This is the Denali Report for Friday, June 19th, 2026.

There are currently 981 climbers registered to climb Denali this year. As of mid-week, 317 of them are on the mountain. There are currently 19 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker, and three of those on are on that mountain. 661 mountaineers have finished their expeditions.

Teams in the Alaska Range are reporting high summit rates this month. The weather has been unusually clear for almost the entire month of June.

Last week, the Alaskan mountaineering community lost a legend. Former National Park Service Chief Ranger, Daryl Miller, passed away on June 9th.

Miller was an iconic person. He served as a Marine, a ranch hand, a rodeo clown and an outdoor education instructor.  In 1986, he led a Colorado-based group of students on Denali and, although that team didn’t summit, he met someone who would become a life-long friend; a ranger named Roger Robinson.  Robinson invited Miller to join a patrol in 1989.

Soon after, Miller began working for the Park Service as a climbing ranger.  He was soon promoted to Chief Mountaineering Ranger, a role he held until the year 2000.

Miller was involved in at least 80 rescues during his tenure in the Alaska Range.

He was also well known for a two-month long winter circumnavigation of Denali and Mt. Foraker.  He achieved that feat with former Talkeetna resident, Mark Stasik in 1995.

But Miller did more than adventure and perform rescues. He believed that educating the public on survival skills was crucial. Even last year, despite his battle with Parkinson’s disease, Miller wrote a commentary for the Denali National Park website, entitled “Survival is Your Own Responsibility.” 

Daryl Miller retired from the Park Service in 2008. He was 82 years old at the time of his death.  You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Photo: Daryl Miller on day 1 of the circumnavigation of the Denali Massif in 1995

Climbing season is at it’s peak and fewer climbers are anticipated to be on the West Buttress in the coming weeks.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has this week’s Denali Report.

This is the Denali Report for Friday, June 12, 2026.

There are currently 987 climbers registered to climb Denali this year. As of mid-week, 383 of them are on the mountain. There are currently 19 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker and five of those on are on that mountain. 464 mountaineers have finished their expeditions.

This week marks the point in the season where more than half of all anticipated climbs are now completed. Recent clear weather has translated into numerous reports of climber summits.

But the atmosphere on the mountain is subdued. One week ago, a National Park Service Ranger fell into a crevasse and lost her life. 33-year-old Robin Pendery was in her third season on Denali.  Pendery was an experienced climber, having worked for over a decade as a mountain guide with Alpine Ascents.  Colleagues there have described her as “brilliant, fierce, funny and endlessly capable.”  Pendery also worked as an emergency room nurse in the state of Washington.

The National Park Service is investigating the circumstances that led to the tragedy.  Pendery was near the 14,000 foot camp when she fell into the crevasse.  Additional details regarding the fall may be released when the investigation is complete. 

The loss of a ranger is unusual. The National Park Service mountaineering ranger program has achieved a notable safety record that has spanned for over two decades.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Photo – Robin Pendery in the mountains

This is one of the busiest weeks of the climbing season.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has this week’s Denali Report

This is the Denali Report for Friday, June 5, 2026.

There are currently 986 climbers registered to climb Denali this year. As of mid-week, 501 of them are on the mountain. There are currently 16 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker. Six people are on that mountain. 182 climbers have finished their expeditions.

The National Park Service rangers were kept busy with high altitude search and rescue operations last weekend. During the last five days of May, there were seven different incidents that required an emergency response from climbing rangers. Six successful evacuations were performed.

But June has ushered in a series of clear and calm days.  A flurry of groups have summited this week and other teams have moved to High Camp to prepare for their summit bid.

The move up to High Camp takes the team through the fixed lines and along an exposed ridge. This part of the route can be quite dangerous when the wind picks up.

The National Park Service reports that the fixed lines are currently in good shape.  Both the up and down lines have seen recent repairs and are available for use.  Pickets on the 16,000 ft ridge and Denali Pass Traverse are in place and providing good spacing for rope teams.

The rest of the West Buttress route is also reported to be in good shape. Snowfall during the month of May granted good coverage on the lower glacier.  Conditions on Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and Windy Corner have been described as having ample snow coverage and kicked-in steps.

The clear weather is helping aid congestion in the camps.  More than half of all registered climbers for 2026 are on the mountain right now, so continual movement up and down the West Buttress is a welcome sight.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Photo of the North and South Summits of Denali by H. Beatty

Climbing season is in full swing, although movement up the mountain has been slow and a couple of search and rescues are underway.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has more in this week’s Denali Report.

This is the Denali Report for Friday, May 29, 2026.

There are currently 994 climbers registered to climb Denali this year. As of mid-week 459 of them are on the mountain. There are currently 15 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker.  Five of those are on that mountain. 26 climbers have finished their expeditions.

National Park Service Ranger Team #1, led by Joey McBrayer, has finished it’s patrol and has flown back to Talkeetna. The team encountered difficult weather conditions throughout its climb, reaching the 14,000 foot camp much later than anticipated. Two additional NPS teams, led by Alan Davis and Jakes Kayes are now at the site. But gear needed for the camp is still on the move. Helicopter operations have been challenging and pilots have not been able to make the anticipated gear drops as planned.  

An additional NPS team, with Rangers Chelsea Bomba and Robin Pendery, has also flown in and has begun it’s ascent up the West Buttress route.

All ranger teams have had their hands full in the past few days, responding to two search and rescue operations.  Two climbers were evacuated by helicopter from the mountain late Wednesday evening.  Rangers also responded to a report that four climbers of a seven-member team fell in the vicinity of Denali Pass, around 18,000 feet.

The National Park Service spent most of Thursday responding to the incident as weather conditions on the mountain inhibited an early evacuation by helicopter.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Photo by NPS VIP Matt Skorina – 16k’ Ridge on May 22.

As more climbers arrive in Talkeetna, this years’ cold and cloudy weather has become a frequent conversation topic.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has more in this week’s Denali Report.

This is the Denali Report for May 22, 2026.  

As of mid-week, there were 1,010 climbers registered to climb Denali this season.  216 of those are on the mountain. There are 15 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker and 5 mountaineers are on that mountain. 

The National Park Service Base Camp Patrol flew out of Base Camp after installing NPS equipment on the Kahiltna Glacier.  Britni Driver is currently manning the Kahiltna Base Camp for the air taxis.

For both climbers and pilots, the most talked about topic this spring… has been weather.

The sun made a couple of brief appearances this week, but precipitation and rain have been the theme this month and have slowed the progress of many.

Further up on the West Buttress route, strong winds, precipitation and cold temperatures have been prevalent.  NPS Patrol #1, led by Joey McBrayer, has finally made it to the 14,000 foot camp after a long delay at 11,000 feet.  Now that they’ve arrived, they are busy setting up the medical camp.   

Despite the challenging weather, news of the first summit of the season is being celebrated on Denali.  Two members of a three-person walk-in expedition reached the top of North America’s highest peak last week.

There are reports of crevasse hazard near Windy Corner, requiring climbers to re-route into steeper terrain.  Word on the upper mountain is that Denali Pass is icy with little snow coverage. 

The weather forecast for the mountain this weekend is for daily snow showers and gusty winds.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

Photo: NPS. J. McBayer

Mountain Climbing Season is gaining momentum.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has this week’s Denali Report.

This is the Denali Report for Friday, May 15th, 2026.

There are 1,011 climbers registered to climb Denali this year. As of mid-week, 71 of them are on the mountain. There are 11 climbers registered to climb Mt. Foraker. Five of those are currently on that mountain.

Climbers have reported significant snow in the past few weeks. Base Camp experienced 2-3 feet of fresh snow on Monday and reported strong winds at high elevations. Despite weather delays, Basecamp has gotten busy during the last week and teams have begun making their way uphill on the West Buttress. 

National Park Service Team Number One, led by Ranger Joey McBrayer is hunkered down at 11,000 ft. That team hopes to move to 14,000 foot camp as soon as they can get a break in the weather.  When they arrive, the will set up the medical camp for the season.

NPS Patrol Number Two, led by Ranger Alan Davis is not far behind.  Both teams are spending quite a bit of time shoveling and breaking trail.

NPS Ranger Chrissie Oken is currently on the Muldrow Glacier with her team. The Muldrow Glacier surged in 2021 and advanced up to 65 feet per day during that time. The movement was 100 times faster than non-surge conditions. The intense migration of the glacier altered the terrain along the usual route.

Oken’s team reports that travel is more difficult than pre-surge, but they are finding their way. The team will assess higher sections of the glacier in the coming days.

The 34-mile-long Muldrow Glacier, located on the north side of Denali, has a history of surging approximately every 50 years.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report. For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

The first mountain climbers of the season have arrived in Talkeetna and have begun their expeditions.  KTNA’s Colleen Love has the season’s first Denali Report.

Photo by F. Madsen via NPS

This is the Denali Report for July 11th, 2025

As of this week, there were 962 climbers registered to climb Denali this season.  All 962 people have come and gone, and no climbers remain on the mountain at this time. 24 people were registered to climb Mt. Foraker this year.  No climbers remain on that mountain.

With no climbing teams remaining, National Park Service rangers and volunteers disassembled their various camps last week. The high-altitude helicopter removed gear from the 14,000 foot camp, and air taxis flew out gear that had been stationed at Base Camp.  

Two special volunteers assisted with the final two Park Service Ranger Patrols. Alaska Mountaineering School co-owner, Colby Coombs, joined Rangers Galen Dossin, and Jake Kayes. The patrol marked Coombs’ 41st time on Denali.  Kahiltna Base Camp Manager, Gabby Faurot, left her Base Camp post a few weeks early to travel higher on the mountain with Ranger Chelsea Bomba’s team. Faurot recently completed her fifth season as Base Camp Manager.

The National Park Service has not yet totaled the statistics that calculate the summit rate for the 2025 climbing season. NPS staff has speculated that the rate will roughly pencil out at about 35% this year. Last years’ summit rate was approximately 52%. The official statistics for the 2025 season are expected to be released in August.

You’ve been listening to the final Denali Report for the 2025 season.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for July 4th, 2025

As of this week, there were 962 climbers registered to climb Denali this season. Only seven climbers remain on the mountain and 955 have finished their expeditions. On Mt. Foraker, 24 people were registered to climb that mountain this year.  All 24 climbers have finished their expeditions.

Last week brought heavy snowfall to the upper elevations of Denali. High Camp saw twelve inches fall during a 24 hour period. At 14,000 feet, 24 inches of new snow was reported. The precipitation ushered in widespread avalanches, causing teams to pause to assess the hazards. Even four days after the storm, snow conditions on the route to Denali Pass were reported to be unstable, sabotaging many summit attempts.

This season has brought multiple periods of weather delays, which has translated to congestion in the various camps. With so many people in close proximity, the potential for unhygienic conditions could be a real concern. Previous Kahiltna Base Camp Manager, Lisa Roderick, explains that, on Denali, that is not the case.

“Everybody tells me that I talk to that it’s one of the cleanest mountains they’ve ever been on.  I think people are just expecting to find conditions like they do on Everest or maybe Aconcagua, but no. Denali is extremely a clean mountain.”

What makes Denali so different is the Clean Mountain Can initiative.  

“They don’t have the clean mountain cans that we have.  All the human waste is contained inside these cans. You line it with a biodegradable bag, and then there’s one crevasse up at 14,000 feet that you’re able to dump your human waste into, but otherwise it’s always contained in a can.  You’re never going to the bathroom on the snow, because we gather snow everyday for drinking water and we melt it.”

The cans were the brainchild of National Park Service Ranger, Roger Robinson.  Between the years of 2001 and 2003, Robinson experimented with the concept. The mandate to carry cans on Denali became official in 2006. Roderick says that before the initiative, she dug a latrine at Base Camp, but now, even the Base Camp Manager participates in the program.

“I had a can at base camp. I’d hand it to a pilot and they’d fly it out and bring it to the ranger station, where they’re cleaned. We just have a stockpile of cans up at basecamp, cause there’s climbers that aren’t necessarily going up the West Buttress. There’s climbers climbing Hunter or smaller peaks around Base Camp. So they have to use their cans at Base Camp and then everything just gets flown out when they leave.”

With climbing season in its final week, the last of the mountain cans will soon be returned to the Ranger Station, sanitized and stored there until next season.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love.

This is the Denali Report for June 27th, 2025

As of this week, there were 957 climbers registered to climb Denali. 135 of them are currently on the mountain and 819 have finished their expeditions. On Mt. Foraker, 24 people were registered to climb that mountain this year.  All 24 climbers have finished their expeditions.

According to National Park Service rangers, if there was one word to sum up the first half of climbing season this year, it would be “cold”.  However temperatures in the Alaska Range began warming in mid-June.  At Base Camp, the weather station has reported temperatures remaining above freezing since June 13th.

Once temperatures stop freezing at night, teams on the lower glacier will usually switch to traveling at night.  Alaska Mountaineering School guide, Ayla Loper, explains why.

“So as the snow gets slushy and warmer, especially when it stops freezing at night, the snow pack warms up a lot quicker.  And when you’re walking, it’s a lot mushier, and then also, snow bridges you go over can give out more easily.”

A snow bridge is a mass of snow that forms a bridge-like structure over a crevasse. It allows for safe passage over a sometimes very deep cavity in the glacier. These bridges can be surprisingly strong, but they can be prone to collapse. 

“If you’re in a really thick snowpack area then the snow bridges won’t melt out as much with the heat, but if you’re in an area where the snow bridges are potentially not as thick, then the heat can make a big difference in pushing through the crevasse.”

Loper explains that, in addition to safety, it can also be more comfortable to travel at night.

“The sun can take a lot out of you and the more time you spend on your feet in the sun can be pretty exhausting.  It feels super hot when you’re out there so it can feel better to travel at night on the lower glacier too.”

Above the 14,000 ft camp, the crevasse danger lessons and exposure to steep drop-offs increases, requiring sure footing. Since mid-June, the opportunity to travel safely up high has been limited by intermittent strong winds.

June 19th ushered in an early summer solstice gift for teams waiting at high camp. Blustery winds relented and multiple teams summited during a two-day window. But by June 21st, high winds returned, and climbing teams have gone back to holding at high camp. Temperatures at high camp are reported to be -10 to 10 degrees above zero, Fahrenheit. The air is reported to be somewhat hazy due to smoke from wildfires. Climbers are reporting mild congestion from the smoke.

Winds are predicted to lessen this weekend, perhaps giving those teams at 17,000 feet, a shot at reaching North America’s highest point.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for June 20th, 2025

As of this week, there were 952 mountaineers registered to climb Denali.  246 of them are currently on the mountain and 675 climbers have finished their expeditions. 24 people have registered to climb Mt. Foraker this year. No climbers are on that mountain at this time and 21 have finished their expeditions.  

Climbing season in the Alaska Range is now officially on its downslope. Over 70% of all registered climbers have wrapped up their expeditions, and the last teams of the season will launch this week.

For teams that began their climb during the final days of May, their timing proved to be perfect for a summit bid. Last week saw a flurry of summits with a stretch of clear weather that held from June 12th through the 15th.  A National Park Service Ranger patrol also reached the summit during this time. Before their summit bid, the ranger team had spent numerous days at the 14,000 ft camp, treating multiple cases of frostbite.

Rangers say the temptation to trade dexterity for safety can lead climbers to remove gloves while doing routine camp chores. Handling metal tools, such as stoves, at below zero temperatures, can easily injure the skin. According to rangers, this practice, and not hydrating enough, are usually the precursors to developing frostbite.

Currently, travel conditions are reported to be good on the lower mountain.  At basecamp, snow is beginning to turn slushy and wet during the heat of the day. Overnight it is refreezing, creating a surface crust that is holding weight. 

Between 11-14,000 feet, travel conditions are considered variable. Climbers are reporting slick ice at Windy Corner.  Another avalanche was observed in Rescue Gully on June 14th.  A skier was caught in that avalanche, but luckily suffered no injuries.

At the 17,000 foot camp, temperatures have been reported to be warmer with highs at about five above zero. Winds have been consistent, around 25 miles per hour. Climbing teams at high camp are currently hanging out, waiting for a better weather window to try for the summit.  

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for June 13th, 2025

As of this week, there are 940 mountaineers registered to climb Denali. 422 climbers are on the mountain at this time and 416 have finished their expeditions. There are 26 people registered to climb Mt. Foraker.  Three climbers are currently on that mountain and 20 have finished their climbs.

A skier on Denali was confirmed dead earlier this week after being caught in an avalanche at Rescue Gully. The avalanche released at approximately 16,600 ft on the West Buttress Route and finished at around 15,000 ft.  Nicholas Vizzini, age 29 of Washington, and his climbing partner, a snowboarder, triggered the avalanche.

National Park Service rangers were in the area and were able to begin searching within minutes. During the search, Vizzini was located and CPR was initiated, but was later discontinued. Vizzini was pronounced deceased at the scene due to traumatic injuries.  Vizzini’s partner was treated for minor injuries.

In addition to the 422 climbers that are currently on Denali, there are also four National Park Service Rangers. It’s a tall order for only four rangers: treating frostbite, stomping out helicopter landing sites, coordinating rescues and performing rescues.

But the National Park Service has a secret weapon; volunteers. Volunteers have been the backbone for the National Park Service mountain ranger team since the 1970s.  Ranger, Joey McBrayer, talks a little bit about the program.

“If you look at our staff we have 10-11 climbing staff or mountaineering staff that actually will get into the mountains and be on patrol.  If it’s one ranger, they’ll likely have four volunteers with them.”

McBrayer explains what types of people make good volunteers.

 “So we see a lot of paramedics, nurses, medical doctors, especially ones that work in the E.R. but then also have a climbing background. Ski patroller seems to be another good source for volunteers, there’s a lot of ski patrollers that come up, and a lot of folks that have spent time in the Alaska Range that look forward to helping out and being stewards in a different way rather than just enjoying the park.

The volunteer program utilizes somewhere between 30 to 40 volunteers each year.  McBrayer says they couldn’t perform many of the operations they usually do without the aid of the volunteers.

“Our program depends on it.  We obviously really, really appreciate them, and we have a pretty robust Rolodex of volunteers at this point too, we have some folks that have been coming back for years.  Last year we had a volunteer, it was his sixth patrol that he was doing with us so he’s coming with a lot of experience.”

Volunteers accompany rangers for the first patrol each year and continue through the end of the season. Currently, there are 14 volunteer rangers on the mountain.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for June 6, 2025

As of this week, there were 923 mountaineers registered to climb Denali and 501 of them are on the mountain right now. There were 26 people registered to climb Mt. Foraker, and 5 climbers are on that mountain.

207 have finished their expeditions.

This week on Denali:  National Park Service rangers have located the body of a deceased man who fell while climbing on Monday. Alex Chui, of Seattle, Washington, fell near the area known as Squirrel Point.  Squirrel Point sits at about 12,000 ft on the West Buttress route. It is often icy and windswept. It sits above a sheer drop of more than 3,000 ft above the Peters Glacier. The 41 year-old-man was part of a three member team that was traveling unroped when he fell and disappeared.

Extremely poor weather hampered search efforts for two days after the fall. Winds were reported to have been severe, therefore keeping the high-altitude helicopter grounded, delaying search attempts.

The first week of June is historically one of the busiest times on Denali. Climbers who began their expedition in mid-May are descending and climbers who began in early-June are ascending. More than half of all registered climbers are on the mountain together during this time.

Most guiding companies on the mountain are reporting that they have been hunkering down at either the 11,000 ft. or the 14,000 ft camp. That translates into cooking elaborate, calorie-rich meals, such as Jambalaya, pancakes and Tortellini Pesto. It also translates into frequent bouts of shoveling, hydrating, reading and weather speculation. The mountain forecast does look to have some weather breaks this weekend.  

According to the Anchorage Daily News, the National Park Service said the number of climbers who have summited this year, as of this Tuesday, was 53. That’s a summit rate of roughly 28%, midway through the 2025 season.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for May 30, 2025

As of this week, there were 931 mountaineers registered to climb Denali and 385 of them are on the mountain. There were 30 people registered to climb Mt. Foraker, and 7 climbers are on that mountain.

157 have finished their expeditions.

Ask any mountaineer and they will most likely tell you that summiting Denali is weather dependent. Teams can get stuck at the 17,000 foot camp during week-long blizzards and below zero weather. Coupled with the lack of oxygen at that altitude, it can be daunting to wait for a clear day to travel higher.

Last week the weather provided a short window of sunshine. A guided team who began climbing in early May reported summiting on May 24th and another guided team reported reaching the top on May 26th.

Reports from Denali during that time, described clear, but icy conditions at the Headwall with very little wind. The Headwall is a steep incline, hundreds of feet high. It is sometimes referred to as the “Fixed Lines” because of ropes that are affixed onto the icy slope there. Climbers clip into the ropes and then use a tool called an ascender. An ascender can slide up the rope but then grips to prevent sliding backwards. Climbers encounter the Headwall when traveling between the 14,000 ft camp and the 17,000 foot camp.

The current mountain forecast is for increasing winds with heavy snow today.  Climbers at high camp will hunker down for that, hoping for milder conditions, expected on Sunday.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report, For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for May 23, 2025

As of this week, there were 941 people registered to climb Denali and 228 of them are on that mountain. There are 30 people registered to attempt Mt. Foraker, and 23 of those have started their ascent.

19 climbers have finished their expeditions.

The National Park Service responded to two rescue calls recently.

On May 13th, rangers received a report of an avalanche near the Pika Glacier.  Three skiers were caught in the avalanche and two skiers were injured. Rangers responded by helicopter and rescued the skiers, one at a time, via short haul.  A short haul is accomplished by attaching the rescuee to a rope or cable suspended from the helicopter and then flying the suspended person to a safer location.

On May 17th, rangers responded to an inReach SOS on Mt. Hunter.  A climber there had taken a 50-foot fall and had broken his leg. Coordinates from the inReach device showed the climbing party on a long and technical alpine route. 

A second team of climbers happened to be on the same route and was assisting to lower the patient, one pitch at a time, to the base of the route.

Two rangers skied from Base Camp to the scene, where the patient was assessed, splinted and transported to a location suitable for a helicopter landing. The injured climber was then flown back to Talkeetna for further medical evaluation and treatment.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.  For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for May 16, 2025

As of this week, there were 942 climbers registered to climb Denali and 30 people registered to attempt Mt. Foraker. There are 17 climbers currently on Mt. Foraker and 166 climbers currently on Denali. 19 mountaineers have finished their expeditions.

Usually, at this point in the season, the National Park Service begins publishing summit rates.  According to the Park Service, they’ve seen an increasing number of climbers becoming fixated on the daily summit rate as they begin their expeditions. But park service personnel have a different measure of success.  For them, enjoyment of the outdoors and making it home safely are the true measures of success.  

These factors have led National Park Service to make the decision to NOT report summit rates throughout the 2025 climbing season.

National Park Service Ranger, Joey McBrayer explains.

“When people come in and they see it’s a certain number and they feel like, maybe it’s something more in their realm or they’re gonna push it, cause they want to be one of those numbers that hits the top.  When you see it written down, it’s something that becomes tangible.”

McBrayer says the changes are part of a larger effort to continually improve their Preventative Search & Rescue Program. (PSAR)

“We’re always trying to try new things. A lot of it comes into outreach in terms of trying to prevent people getting frostbite or altitude illness. And I think our climbing staff is not just coming with climbing backgrounds and these medical backgrounds, but they also come with an administrative background where they’re sending emails out to climbers when they’re reviewing applications and files and asking them more questions about, Do they have these skills to be traveling on a glacier? or How are they going to prepare themselves if they get stuck in a situation?  Some of the logistics for their trips but also just geared more towards keeping them safe and what steps are they taking to keep them safe.”

The Park Service is keeping track of climbing statistics and they say they intend to publish overall summit rates when the climbing season is finished.  

For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for May 9, 2025

There are 949 climbers registered to climb Denali this season and 26 of those have begun their climb. 28 people are registered for expeditions on Mt. Foraker and 4 of those on currently on that mountain.

Base Camp Manager, Gabby Faurot, flew in last week and has set up her camp.  She has been joined on the Kahiltna Glacier by National Park Service Rangers, Alan Davis and Scotty Barrier.  The two base camp rangers went straight to work, installing a radio repeater on the top of Mt. Crosson. The repeater will aid with park service communications throughout the climbing season.

Also flying in last week was the first high altitude patrol. That group has made it to 11,000 feet, breaking trail and acclimatizing. Their mission is to install the 14,000 ft medical camp. The first handful of climbers are right behind.

The second high altitude ranger team is preparing to follow soon. They are beginning their patrol by refreshing their rigging and rescue skills at base camp.

The reports from the field this week were “lots of new snow”. Climbers can expect to use their shoveling and trail breaking skills throughout the weekend, as more snowfall is in the forecast.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.

For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for May 2, 2025

As of last week, there were 913 climbers registered to climb Denali this season and 26 registered to attempt Mt. Foraker.  At that time, according to the National Park Service, there were no active teams on the mountain. But that’s about to radically change.

Base Camp Manager, Gabby Faurot, had intended to fly in to the Kahiltna Glacier this week, but poor weather conditions has kept her from flying into the range.

The National Park Service Ranger Team took advantage of a good weather window in April to fly in some of their gear, stashing it at base camp. The first ranger patrol will fly in when weather allows. 

The first patrol has the arduous task of packing gear up to 14,000 ft and setting up the communications and medical camps for the season. An important part of the task is acclimatizing along the way, so the team will take seven to ten days to reach the designated site.

The Talkeetna-based ranger team has been preparing for the season for a while. NPS Ranger, Joey McBrayer, describes what the team been doing to get ready.

“We just finished up our training cycle. We work these long stints of; six days of rigging training, where we’re doing technical rope work, and then we’ll spend three, uh four days doing medical training, where, you know, we’re working through our protocols and working with our med provider.  And then, towards the end, once the helicopter’s on contract, we do our aviation training. That includes just our basic ground school to stepping out of a helicopter when all the skids aren’t fully on the ground, and then also our short-haul program where we actually suspend a ranger on a long-line and then do rope work with that.”

The National Park Service ranger teams will spend between 23-24 days each in the Alaska Range this year.

You’ve been listening to the Denali Report.

For KTNA, I’m Colleen Love

This is the Denali Report for Friday, June 28, 2024.

As is normal for the season, there have been no overnight freezes on the lower glacier this week. Snow bridges are unreliable. The snow is getting sloppy and the air taxi strip has been moved up the glacier. Those arriving in the next week will have to ski or trek the extra distance from the air taxiway to camp.

As of Thursday, there are 975 registered climbers for the 2024 season, which is still slightly below the average, but 23 more than last week. Of those, 75 are currently on the mountain and 900 have completed climbs. To date, 470 climbers have summited, reaching a 52% summit rate.

Earlier this week, a guide suddenly and temporarily lost consciousness somewhere above the 14,200-foot camp. The guide was able to descend to the camp where they were evacuated. A climber on a guided expedition was also evacuated from the 14,200-foot camp on Wednesday due to a head injury and associated nausea. 

The National Park Service provides multiple updates each week during climbing season in the Denali Dispatches blog.

The glaciers on Denali are deteriorating with the long, sunny days and warm daytime temperatures as the climbing season nears the end. There is still freezing in the early morning hours on the lower glacier, but the higher temps during the day increase the crevasse hazard and risk of falls. 

As of Thursday, there are 952 registered climbers for the 2024 season, which is a bit below the average. Of those, 210 are currently on the mountain and 758 have completed climbs. To date, 369 climbers have summited, reaching a 49% summit rate.

Mount Foraker continues to stifle the climbers. Twenty-seven climbs were attempted and finished, with zero summits.

The weather has been cooperative and only two climbers were evacuated from guided parties this week, neither with emergencies. One climber was evacuated with High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. The second climber was evacuated with foot injuries.

The National Park Service provides multiple updates each week during climbing season in the Denali Dispatches blog.

This is the Denali Report for Friday, May 19^th, 2023. As of this Wednesday, 942 climbers are expected to attempt Denali this season. Of those, 266 were on the mountain.  Fourteen climbs had been completed, with five making it to the summit. That makes the current summit rate thirty-six percent.

Eight climbers are expected to attempt Mt. Foraker.  Four of them are currently on the mountain, with no completed attempts as of Wednesday.

In addition, sixty-two climbers were in various backcountry areas of the Alaska Range, including nine on Mount Hunter.

It’s well-established that one of the biggest factors in whether climbers make it to the summit of Denali or any of the other Alaska Range peaks is the weather.  Given that nearly all climbing teams fly into and out of the range via planes, the weather can also delay the start of a climb or extend a team’s stay on the mountain after their attempt is done. 

That’s also true for ranger patrols.  In the National Park Service’s Denali Dispatches blog, multiple patrols are said to be delayed getting out of the Alaska Range by poor weather conditions. 

According to the Denali Recreational Forecast and hourly weather data transmitted from 7,000 and 14,000 feet on Denali, the wind in the area is expected to diminish, and much of the cloud cover has cleared. As such, the number of completed attempts and climbers on the mountain could change dramatically as those climbers check back in at the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station.

As of Thursday, there are 1,129 climbers registered to attempt Denali in the 2022 season. Of those, 282 are currently on the mountain, and 758 climbs have been completed.  There have been 523 successful summits so far this year, giving a summit rate of 69%.

Thirteen climbers have registered to attempt Mt. Foraker.  Eight of those are currently on the mountain, and five climbs have been completed.  There have not been any summits of Mt. Foraker so far in 2022.

The last week has seen a continued gradual increase in the summit rate on Denali.  While it currently sits just below seventy percent, it peaked earlier this week at seventy-one percent.  While the summit rate varies year-to-year based on conditions, it tends to remain between fifty and sixty percent.

After a quiet week in search and rescue as of last Friday, this week saw an increase in activity.  One climber was evacuated from the mountain after suffering from a combination of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema and COVID 19. Later, Rangers helped an exhausted duo returning from a difficult summit day with the help of professional guides leading other groups.  On Saturday evening, one member of a trio fell while skiing and was injured.  His partners stayed with him at very high elevation on the mountain until help could arrive and evacuate the fallen climber.  They later had to be evacuated, themselves.

The National Park Service provides multiple updates each week during climbing season in the Denali Dispatches blog.