This vintage kimono fabric was found in the UK… and it immediately had main character energy. Not something you can reorder. Not something you want to overthink. Just one beautiful piece with a story already built in.

From there, it made its way to our studio… where things got a little nerve-wracking (in a good way). Working with vintage fabric means there’s no backup plan. Every cut matters. Every placement matters. There’s a brief moment before cutting where you just… pause and double check your life choices.

We shaped it into a bra and matching pieces, letting the fabric guide the design instead of forcing it into something it didn’t want to be.

Once the lingerie pieces were underway, the fabric headed back across the Atlantic to Hetty Rose Shoes in the UK. Same fabric, completely different approach. Seeing it transformed into shoes was one of those moments where everything just clicked. Different skills, same idea… let the material lead.

By the end of it, this project had gone UK → US → UK, picking up ideas (and probably a few frequent flyer miles) along the way.

It’s not something that can be mass produced. Not something we can easily recreate. And honestly… that’s what makes it special.

The finished set feels less like a product and more like a story you can actually see.

A really beautiful, slightly well-traveled story.

Projects like this don’t happen all the time… but when the right fabric shows up, we’re always a little tempted.

So if you’ve ever had a piece of fabric sitting there, quietly waiting for its moment…

You never know what it could become.

With this version of the Lotus Bra Pattern, we really wanted to highlight the purple in this very regal lace… but without defaulting to the classic lace-edged neckline. With limited color-coordinated options, we had to get creative.

A little lace layering and blocking created a soft sweetheart effect, broke up the wide expanse of the wireless cup, and let the purple detail take center stage. Standard beige lingerie elastics and hook and eye actually worked beautifully here, blending into the gold tones and allowing the purple to really pop without hunting for an exact match.

The biggest challenge? The straps. Converting to a non-stretch strap to use the same lace would have been the easiest solution… but it felt like it was missing that extra punch from the purple lace edge. Then we found it — a perfectly matched (and admittedly very flimsy) lingerie elastic hiding in the stash. With a little stabilization and layering, it worked a treat.

Without further ado, lets get to it:

Cup Blocking Instructions

STEP 1

Remove seam allowance. Align the upper portion of the vertical of the cup pattern pieces with little to no overlap.

STEP 2

Mark the spot where the two pattern pieces intersect. Then mark where you want the lace portion to start at the CF seam. Draw a straight line through both point then cut along the line. The straight edge *magically* curves in 3D.

STEP 3

Add seam allowance back on for all edges except the lace edge of the bottom cup section. For the the upper part of the cup, consider using a wider seam allowance at the (new) diagonal seam to allow for better overlap.

STEP 4

Align lower cup lace panel on top of the upper and zig zag the lace edge to secure. Treat as one for the remaining instruction steps.

Strap Hack Instructions

STEP 1

Cut lace edge to desired width and length

STEP 2

Encase the raw edge of the lace inside a similar color foldover elastic with stabilizer.

STEP 3

Top with color coordinating lingerie lace. Note - we combined step 2 and 3 with only one pass through the machine (very slow and and steady here). Another alternative is do use washaway thread in Step 2 and regular thread in Step 3 - this keeps the bottom of the strap looking clean and minimizes potential rubbing due to extra thread.

Ever stare at our pattern library and think, “Wow, I really can’t decide which bra pattern to make next”?
It happens… especially around here.

To help make the choosing part a little easier, I created a Bra Pattern Comparison Chart — a quick reference for cup shape, support level, and size sets across our patterns. It’s delightfully unglamorous. It’s also incredibly helpful.

If you’re deciding between a soft everyday bra, a structured underwire, or something with a little extra lift… this chart will point you in the right direction. Take a look, pick your next project, and enjoy the fun part — sewing.

Love the Liora Bra but not feeling the full lace, straight back? Prefer a little more coverage, stability, or just want something that plays better with your existing wardrobe?

Say hello to the Back Wing Hack. 💙

If you’ve already sewn the Lusamine or Lazulite Bra, you’re in luck—the cradle on those patterns is nearly identical to Liora’s, which makes swapping the back wing super straightforward.

✂️ How to Hack It:

1. Grab the same size back wing from your Lusamine or Lazulite pattern.

2. Substitute it directly for the lace back in Liora.

3. Adjust the side seam height if needed—just blend the new piece into the front side seam if there's a mismatch in height (a small tweak, promise).

And that’s it. No redrafting, no tracing from scratch, no geometry degree required.

🧠 Why Hack the Back?

• You want a classic ballet back or “U” back style

• You’re using a beautiful lace on the cups and want to let it shine solo

• You’re sewing with powernet or a firmer knit and want more stability

• You just like the clean finish and full-band feel of a winged-back bra

This is also a great option if you're planning to wear your Liora as a daily bra and want more everyday comfort. Or, you know… if you're out of lace and deep into stash mode.

Backs can be beautiful—and practical.
Happy hacking!

Enter: the Strap Tab Hack.

This simple tweak lets you keep the external strap tab - even if you’re not using the internal sling - by changing how the strap connects to the cup. It’s a small change with a big impact—and it preserves the look of the original design without compromising function.

STEP 1

Sew on the upper band elastic as usual then leave 2~3” beyond the strap tab.

STEP 2

Create a small rouleau-style strap extension by slipping the raw edge of the elastic through ring from the adjustable strap.

STEP 3

Pin the raw edge of the elastic to the upper cup and Bartack (aka narrow zigzag) in place. This keeps the tension distributed over a larger area and prevents pull lines and flat spots.

That’s its! You’ll still get the visual balance and support of the original strap tab while maintaining the lightweight airy-ness of sheer fabrics. Please note that omitting the internal sling is NOT recommended for very large/heavy breasts due to the weight.

Looking for a way to keep your straps from slipping — and add a touch of elegance to your handmade bras? The lace “H” back is a simple, beautiful solution that’s both functional and fashionable.

In this quick tutorial, Lily walks you through how to convert a standard bra back into a lace “H” back — and even make it convertible with G-hooks for extra styling options. It’s a fun way to customize your favorite patterns and pair your bras with low-back or summer tops while keeping everything in place.

Although the sample shown uses the Lazulite Bra, this technique works beautifully with the Liora Bra Pattern or any bra design you love.

Watch the full tutorial on YouTube here:
👉 How to Add a Lace “H” Back to Any Bra (with G-Hooks!)

Whether you’re upgrading your favorite make or planning your next one, this little hack will have you rethinking what’s possible with lace and lingerie.

https://youtu.be/HnW1EeF0ux0?si=mIN7B7mRMTt479aJ

IIn our previous sample [HERE], Heidi’s measurements indicate:

Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) = size 14.9cm/5.9”

Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) = size 12.5cm/4.9”.

This means she needs the volume of the larger HH but a shorter BCD. We can accommodate that by reducing the BCD of the 14.9cm/5.9” to 12.5cm/4.9”. Begin by removing the seam allowance.

Larger Cup Size and Smaller BCD

Start by circling the corner of the smaller BCD and the corner of the larger size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while shortening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little shorter, you’re done!

Smaller Cup Size and Larger BCD

Start by circling the corner of the larger BCD and the corner of the smaller size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while lengthening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little taller, you’re done!

If you need to increase or decrease the BCD by quite a few sizes (say, 5+ sizes) ~ some cup reshaping maybe required. We highly recommend utilizing paper cups to ensure the seams and wireline are nice and smooth in addition to general shaping. Paper Cup and Cradle Tutorial

The wait is over—our newest bra pattern, Liora, has officially launched!

Designed for cup sizes A–KK and band sizes 26–52, Liora brings together lift, lace, and thoughtful engineering (because yes, we absolutely nerded out over cup curves and lace angles). She features an gorgeous lace overlay, a supportive shape, and an optional clever H-back that helps keep your straps in place—while adding just a touch of drama.

Whether you’re sewing your second bra or your twentieth, Liora is here to meet you where you are—with the same Choose-Your-Own-Adventure instructions and mix-and-match size logic you know and love from LilypaDesigns.

We tested this pattern across every size range, and we can’t wait to see what you make.

👉 Get the Liora Bra Pattern here

Sound familiar?

You’re not alone — and you’re not doing anything wrong.
Bra fit isn’t guesswork. It’s a system. One that considers the shape of your ribcage, the depth of your cradle, your cup volume, and so much more.

Once you understand how these pieces work together, the results are life-changing.

That’s exactly what we cover in the Summer Bra Fit Masterclass — now open for enrollment.

What Is the Bra Fit Masterclass?

This is not a series of pre-recorded videos you watch alone.
It’s an 8-week live, online course designed to help home sewists deeply understand the structure and science behind bra fit — with real-time feedback, human connection, and a supportive learning community.

You’ll join Ms. Fong (that’s me!) and a small group of fellow sewists each week for a live session where we explore the why behind the fit — not just the how.

You'll learn to identify:

• Why a wire fits in one bra but not another

• What cradle depth actually means (and how it relates to your torso)

• How volume, tension, and vertical shape affect support
  ...and so much more

What’s Included?

• Live weekly classes via Zoom — interactive, engaging, and guided

• Live group Q&A sessions so you can ask your questions in real time

• Personalized homework feedback from a bra designer with over 15 years of experience

• Private online community for support, encouragement, and shared wins

And yes — this all happens online. No flights. No traffic.
You can join from your sewing room, your kitchen table, or the couch with a glass of wine (pajamas welcome, bras optional).

NEW: Extended Coaching Option

For the first time ever, we’re offering an Extended Coaching Add-On — six monthly 1-on-1 sessions after the course ends.

This is perfect for:

• Small business owners who want help troubleshooting client fits

• Intermediate sewists who want to deepen their understanding

• Anyone who wants ongoing guidance after the 8-week course wraps up

A Quick Note…

This Masterclass has sold out two years in a row.
If you’ve been on the fence, now’s the time to claim your spot.

🧵 Click here to enroll now

Let’s take the mystery out of bra fit — together.

Check out what our students are saying:

“Absolutely a wonderful experience! I hadn’t sewn anything for nearly 2 decades but sewing with Lily gave me so much confidence and knowledge for being able to make bras on my own in the future. There was a ton of one-one-one time and Lily was so helpful and patient not only in guiding each step but also in modifying her pattern to adjust for the best fit. Such a unique experience that I’m so glad I tried it!”

“I thought the class was wonderful. I learned more about fitting and being able to see issues when looking at pictures. Lily was delightful to work with and I look forward to the Lingerie Retreat in the Spring.”

“I was real pleased with the systematic approach to getting a fitting bra. Get pattern parts that are a close fit (underwire, cradle then cup). Trusting that process is key. Seeing a good fit is the goal. I am amazed with Lily’s vision and would have loved more work in that direction. It was good to see examples and see results within the class. It is a class of self motivation as Lily presents lots of information! Listen & learn. The class supplements were very helpful for needed adjustments…”

Due to style and lack of horizontal seams in the bra, our usual method of reducing the wireline for a narrow root/omega adjustment doesn’t work here.

The overall concept remains the same where you want to maintain the width of the larger Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) size but the wireline length of the smaller cradle and wire size. Depending on the height of the breast root, you may need to keep the height of your larger HH or height of the smaller cradle size. In our tests where the BCD is 5 sizes smaller than the HH and the cradle is 8 sizes smaller than the HH, keeping the cup height the same as the BCD worked wonderfully.

Larger HH with Short Roots

We’re going to mix and match the smaller sized Inner and Middle Cup Pattern pieces with the larger sized Outer Cup Pattern piece. This also means we’ll need to adjust the seam lengths so everything matches again.

Reduce the BCD of the Outer Cup piece then adjust the width so the total HH measurement remains the same. This second part can be done 2 ways. 1.) redraw the seam to be ‘curvier’ and have more horizontal girth. 2.) Size up in the Outer Cup but maintains the same total HH. Reduce BCD and wire length as necessary. All that remains is ensuring the wire lengths match between the cup and cradle.

This method helps maintain the shape and/or cup projection with minimal distortion. Remember, none of the seams coincide with the bust point - ensure this continues to be the case when making alterations.

This chart shows the key components that make up the HH (horizontal hemisphere) measurement for the Lazulite Bra GG-KK. You can quickly compare the full HH and the Outer Cup Measurements.

• If we sized down, note how many sizes DOWN (Inner and Middle Cup combined) and go the same number of sizes UP in the outer cup.

• If we sized up, note now many sizes UP (Inner and Middle Cup combined) and go the same number of sizes DOWN in the outer cup.

• Goal - size up/down pattern pieces as necessary but maintain the same total HH.

This particular method works because the powerbar and the inner arc increases by the same number for the Lazulite. So sizing up in one pattern piece while sizing down in the another pattern piece will yield the same total HH measurement. The “wireline” of the cup may no longer match the “wireline” of the cradle so some true-ing of the lines may be required but the volume is maintained - just distributed differently. This method also has the benefit of keeping the curve of the cup and seamlines without a ton of re-drafting.

IIn our previous sample [HERE], Heidi’s measurements indicate:

Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) = size 14.9cm/5.9”

Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) = size 12.5cm/4.9”.

This means she needs the volume of the larger HH but a shorter BCD. We can accommodate that by reducing the BCD of the 14.9cm/5.9” to 12.5cm/4.9”. Begin by removing the seam allowance.

Larger Cup Size and Smaller BCD

Start by circling the corner of the smaller BCD and the corner of the larger size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while shortening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little shorter, you’re done!

For the cradle, simply select a smaller size. Measure the “wireline” (cup/cradle seam) of the cup pattern piece and compare with the cradle pattern piece. Every 1/4” (6mm) is one size.

For the back wing, select the wing size group that matches your cradle. You may have to add a little height for the seams to match.

Smaller Cup Size and Larger BCD

Start by circling the corner of the larger BCD and the corner of the smaller size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while lengthening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little taller, you’re done!

For the cradle, simply select a larger size. Measure the “wireline” (cup/cradle seam) of the cup pattern piece and compare with the cradle pattern piece. Every 1/4” (6mm) is one size.

For the back wing, select the wing size group that matches your cradle. You may have to trim off excess height for the seams to match.

Check out our amazing size range specific to this on flexible design that blends modern styling with a bit of romance. Perfect for a boudoir photoshoot, fun cosplay or underneath a structured powersuit.

The “behind the scene” type of social media posts we recently introduced have proven to be quite popular. It likely speaks to the creative, curious and self starting nature of our niche but tight knit sewing circle. In the same spirit of ‘people won’t know what so special about your product or brand if you don’t tell them’, we’re going to be quite transparent about what it takes to develop new bra pattern.

Lets dive in!

The timeframe to develop a full bra pattern in 2 size sets takes anywhere from 2-4 months depending on the complexity. The third size set is often released several months later at a slightly accelerated speed to help alleviate the stress on our small but mighty team to launch 3 patterns simultaneously. Each of our bra styles is released in 2 or 3 size sets which go through the full cycle independently of each other. That means 3 different pattern test groups for the same bra style, 3 different PDF’s to manage, 3 different listings, and triple the number of places errors could pop up! Perhaps most surprisingly is how long it takes to develop the instructions - it takes as long if not longer to finalize this vital bit of modern digital sewing patterns. Our Instructions feature professionally illustrated diagrams designed to cater to a variety of learning modalities as well as common adjustments.

And now the finance portion of our analysis.

We’re not going to sugar coat it - 2024 was kinda hard. A little more than half of income come from sales of physical product which was a little surprising as in the past, the income streams were nearly evenly split between digital patterns, physical supplies and teaching (ie. diversified). The catch is that expenses also shot up and we actually lost money - between a new employee, more diversified models for the annual photoshoot, and rising cost of basic software, things add up quickly. Extra help translates directly into extra costs - for payroll, workers comp, and additional tech (both hardware and software), etc. Not to mention the ever increasing cost of the Adobe suite and Webhosting! Between these two, Asana (to help manage and organize multiple remote people), email service, shipping software, and the other webhost (online courses), and Zoom, we’re looking at over $4000 a year just to stay online!

Here’s a lovely infographic that highlights the current conundrum of pattern development. A typical (ie, not complicated) bra pattern requires approximately 380 hours to develop, test and finalize for launch. At the current pricing, this requires the sale of 400 copies of the PDF pattern at full price to breakeven. On average, digital pattern sales are less than 200 per style per year. For some styles, its closer to 100 per year (sigh, anything in the GG-KK size set) which means it takes multiple years to break even. How is this sustainable? Its not. We have been getting by because Lily has never drawn a salary and is fortunate enough to operate this business without needing it to be the main source of income.

MOVING FORWARD AND FUTURE PLANS

We’re not going anywhere. Nor do we plan on cutting back on our size range but you may see a shift in the type of patterns and variety of supplies offered. We’ve cut back on some things for now that will hopefully be enough until we get back on our feet. That said, we were able to cross off a few things from our To-Do list that we’re incredibly proud of.

• Extended size range - All bra patterns going forward will reflect our new size range of 26-52 bands!

• We launched our very first clothing pattern in a size inclusive range of 0-34 with cup sizes for B-D, DD/E, G/H and J/K!

• Increased diversity for our annual photoshoot to include people of different races AND ages.

• Teaching in-person at a full blown Lingerie Retreat full of wonderful teachers and students in a smaller, more intimate (pun intended!) setting.

There are currently 2 new patterns in development - one slated for the spring and one in the fall. Perhaps a third if the timing is right (only 52 weeks in a year after all!). We will continue to add more online courses annually and gradually increase our video offerings to cover a broader range of topics (happy to hear your suggestions!). Of course, there’s also our in-person workshops and Annual Lingerie Retreat with Porcelynne and a rotating group of teachers! You can support our efforts by purchasing patterns, supplies, online courses or in-person retreats!

This silk charmeuse from Fabric Wholesale Direct was perfect the job. At 25 mommes, it is a great weight to cut and sew without being too slippery and fed through the machine easily. No odd puckering and no fighting ripples every 2 stitches.

Lets get started!

STEP 1 - Start by cutting bias strips that is 4x the width you need. In this case, we used 1” strips for a 1/4” finished width with 1/4” seam allowance. For short lengths of bias strip, simply laying down a ruler on top of the fabric at 45 degrees and running a rotary cutter next to it makes quick work of the fabric. If longer lengths of bias strips are need, try this continuous bias strip method.

The silk is a nice enough weight where basting and ironing wasn’t needed here but if you are working with a lighter or slippery fabric and/or working with these types of fabric for the first time, take the time to iron and baste before use.

STEP 2 - Once the bias tape is ready to go, its time to baste the strip(s) on to the fabric. To make this easier, lay out the fabric pieces so all the joining seams are next to each other. They place one strip at each seam. Check that the seam allowances of the bias strip and fabric are even - trim any areas where the strip sticks out as necessary to ensure the seam allowances on the main fabric is consistent and smooth. DO NOT reduce or change the seam allowance width in any way. This is particularly important and lingerie typically only has a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance and uneven seam allowances while piecing may result in odd puckers or wrinkles.

STEP 3 - Once all the strips are basted on, sew the rest of the garment as usual.

Also wanted to share this timely version of the Mysa bralette made out of rayon Ponte De Roma also from FWD. This fabric is a favorite for a few reasons. Its a double knit with a bit of spandex mixed in - that means no rolling! While most Ponte De Roma is made of polyester, this version is mostly rayon making it softer against the skin while the 30% stretch means is a wonderful match for bralettes as well.

Disclaimer:  I was given the opportunity to receive a product in exchange for this post.  However, this testimony to the quality of the product and my experience with using the product is all my own.

Check out all our posts about Inner Fullness HERE.

The Akeru was drafted with a specific amount of inner fullness directly into the pattern. Inner fullness can vary quite a bit from person to person - even if all other measurements (and bra size) remain the same. Here’s what to do if that amount included is not enough or too little for your unique body.

Lets get started by removing the seam allowance from the pattern pieces.

Decrease Inner Fullness

STEP 1: Decrease curve between Front Panel 1 and 2.

STEP 2: True seams and corners then add seam allowance back on.

Increase Inner Fullness

STEP 1: Increase curve between Front Panel 1 and 2.

STEP 2: True seams and corners then add seam allowance back on.

Check out all our posts about Inner Fullness HERE.

The most common reason for an inner fullness adjustment is due to volume distribution mismatch. Simply put, the cup and breast may be a perfect match in volume but not where the breast tissue is distributed. The amount of inner fullness varies from person to person but in general, the more inner fullness, the less tissue near the underarm. For many, this means reducing the powerbar width. While there are many ways to do this, we will demonstrate the easier approach of simply using a smaller powerbar size.

Lets get started by removing the seam allowance from the pattern pieces.

For those who also need a smaller cradle in addition to a smaller powerbar, the side seam may need to be realigned.

WHEN

November 2nd + November 9th (2 sessions)

10am ~ 2pm

WHERE

Little Green Art Studio

6122 North Figueroa Street, Los Angeles, CA, 90042

OBJECTIVE

Students will learn how to sew a basic bralette and panty.

PREREQUISITE

Beginner or intermediate. Must be familiar with sewing machine basics. No prior experience with lingerie necessary.

MATERIALS

All materials will be provided. Additional patterns and bra making kits are available for purchase day of workshop. Sewing machines are available on site for all registrants but you are welcome to bring your own.

This is our last In-Person class before the end of the year and spaces are limited! Class features our popular Mysa bralette and Kisa knicker patterns in a wide arrange of sizes 26~52 bands and A~KK cup for the bralette and 30”~66” hip for panty.

Due to the style of the bra, the cups are designed to compress breast tissue a bit in order to achieve that wonderful décolleté. For this reason, if your measurements fall between 2 sizes, go with the larger one.

The overall concept remains the same where you want to maintain the width of the larger Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) size but the width of the smaller cradle and wire size. Depending on the height of the breast root, you may need to keep the height of your larger HH or the smaller cradle size.

Larger HH with Short Roots

Start by circling the corner of the smaller Cradle size at the top and bottom of the pattern pieces [blue]. Then draw a curved line connecting the two corners of the pattern piece [red] but curving out the middle “peak” to the larger size. We want to maintain the height of the original while increasing the width (Horizontal Hemisphere). Remember, none of the seams coincide with the bust point - ensure this continues to be the case when making alterations.

Lastly, select the group of back wing that matches the cradle size. Circle the top right corner of the larger Side Front and the smaller Back Wing [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two top corners [red]. Add seam allowance back and you’re ready to rock.

Larger HH with Tall Roots

Start by circling the corner of the SMALLER cradle size at the bottom of the pattern pieces [blue] and the LARGER cup size at the top. Shift the upper circle so it is the neckline is same length as the smaller size [green]. Then draw a curved line connecting the two corners of the pattern piece [red] but curving out the middle “peak” to the larger size. We want the taller height and width (Horizontal Hemisphere) of the larger size but smaller cradle and neckline. Remember, none of the seams coincide with the bust point - ensure this continues to be the case when making alterations.

Lastly, select the group of back wing that matches the cradle size. Circle the top right corner of the larger Side Front and the smaller Back Wing [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two top corners [red]. Add seam allowance back and you’re ready to rock.

To celebrate the release of our Akeru Front Close Bra Pattern, we are offering 10% off this size set using code AKERU10. Offer expires Sept 9 at midnight.

Check out our amazing size range specific to this on trend design that meshes elements from corsetry and lingerie. Perfect for some Regency inspired photoshoot, burlesque performance or boudoir and show off your inner queen.

Our Akeru Bra Making Kits include all the fabrics and elastics needed to make a bra with the option to upgrade to spiral boning.

A contrasting black and pink Bra Making Kit for your lingerie project! Includes all the elastics and haberdashery you need for ONE bra. Perfect for our Akeru front close bra pattern! Check out our accompanying Sew Along Video.

This kit ships with plastic boning as standard or you can upgrade to spiral steel boning.

**** NOT a finished bra **** **** Pattern NOT included ****

**** Underwire and Busk not included in Kit. ****

A beautiful shade of teal and silver Bra Making Kit for your lingerie project! Includes all the elastics and haberdashery you need for ONE bra with a strappy gate back. Perfect for our Akeru front close bra pattern! Check out our accompanying Sew Along Video.

This kit ships with plastic boning as standard or you can upgrade to spiral steel boning.

*** SHORT Cut *** - Stabilized Satin is 8x8”. All other components remain the same.

**** NOT a finished bra **** **** Pattern NOT included ****

**** Underwire and Busk not included in Kit. ****

Busks are also available in various length for your lingerie project!

These specially ordered Busks are perfect for our Akeru front close bra pattern! Sometimes called a front busk, corset fastener or opening busk, our straight busks are perfectly sized for lingerie but firm enough to handle standard corset fabric.