Staying at a Tokyo Disney Hotel has become an important part of our park experience, and we look forward to it as much as the rides and shows.

Tokyo Disney Resort has five beautifully themed onsite hotels within a short distance of the two parks, Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea.

Two of the hotels are even within DisneySea park. Having a view into the park, even after all the guests have left, is a unique experience you won’t find at other Disney parks worldwide.

In the 15 years we’ve been visiting Tokyo Disney, we’ve stayed at all the onsite hotels, as well as more affordable hotels near the parks.

In this guide, I rank the best Tokyo Disney hotels, help you decide if staying onsite is for you, and share costs and other tips to make the most of your stay.

Plus there’s a map at the end to help you get your bearings.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips

Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison

Additional Notes:

• Prices are approximate in US dollars. See discussion of costs below.
• Happy Entry is only available for DisneySea for Miracosta and Fantasy Springs guests. All hotels have early access to Disneyland.
• Outdoor pools are open in summer only (July to early September).
• All pools cost extra and have limited hours.
• All hotels have table service or buffet restaurants—reservations are essential (including for breakfast). They aren’t vegetarian-friendly (except for breakfast buffets).
• Ambassador is the only hotel with a casual eatery and it has limited hours.
• Coin laundries (self-service) are marked above.
• Valet laundry/ dry cleaning is available at Miracosta, Disneyland Hotel and Ambassador. Same-day service is available for an extra fee.

1. Toy Story Hotel guests can only use the Fantasy Springs entrance after 10am. ︎

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Our Top Picks

• Best Hotel Near Tokyo Disneyland – Tokyo Disneyland Hotel
• Best Hotel Near Tokyo DisneySea – Hotel Miracosta
• Best Hotel for Fantasy Springs (DisneySea) – Fantasy Springs Hotel
• Best Budget Tokyo Disney Hotel – Toy Story Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotel for Kids – Toy Story Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotel to Book Last Minute – Ambassador Hotel
• Best Non-Disney Nearby Hotel – Hilton Tokyo Bay
• Our Perfect Combo – 2-3 nights at Disneyland Hotel and 2-3 nights at Hotel Miracosta

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Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?

We have visited Tokyo Disney from central Tokyo, and while it is possible, we much prefer to stay nearby to reduce our commute time, avoid packed rush-hour trains, and take afternoon breaks.

Staying in a non-Disney hotel nearby is the affordable option (I have recommendations below), but we much prefer to stay in an onsite Tokyo Disney hotel for these reasons:

• Happy Entry – You can enter the parks 15 minutes early, which makes all the difference. You avoid the chaotic main entrance queue, get first dibs on Premier Access passes, and can ride at least one ride without long waits. Not all hotels have Happy Entry to DisneySea, though.
• Easy Commute – The locations of our top 3 hotels can not be beat. We are often at the park gates in minutes after leaving our room.
• Disney Bubble – The theming and vibes at the Disney hotels are magic and make your whole stay feel special. They are not just a place to sleep; they are an experience.
• Park Views – We’ve watched the night show from our Miracosta room and the fireworks from our Disneyland Hotel room. Seeing DisneySea empty in the early morning from Miracosta is one of my favourite experiences.

• Advance Restaurant Booking – You get a head start on restaurant bookings if you use the Travel Case section of your Tokyo Disney account after booking a hotel. You can book restaurants at 9am JST one month before check in (instead of 10am). If you book for later in your stay, you are almost guaranteed to get the restaurant you want.
• Luggage Transfer – They will transfer luggage between Disney hotels seamlessly. Just request this on the TV and leave your bags in the room. They will usually be in your next room when you check in at 3pm. We have done this many times, and it makes split stays so easy.
• Souvenirs – Hotel rooms have cute, hotel-themed amenities you can take home, including reusable shopping bags, slippers, plastic mugs, toiletries (although no longer in tins), and postcards. You can not take home pyjamas.

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Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel

• Price – These hotels are expensive, and you could save money by staying at a non-Disney hotel. (Although they are more affordable than comparable Deluxe Disney hotels worldwide).
• Availability – Some of the hotels sell out within minutes of rooms being released four months in advance. I have been up in the middle of the night many times to secure my booking. It’s a hassle, for sure.
• Limited Time – If you only plan to spend one day at the parks, it might be easier to not move hotels from Central Tokyo (such as Shinjuku, our pick for first timers).

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Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked

These are our rankings of the Tokyo Disney Resort onsite hotels from our least favourite to the one we choose to stay at the most.

We genuinely love all these hotels, though, and would happily stay at any of them again.

5) Toy Story Hotel

• Location: 5 min walk to Bayside Monorail Station and Fantasy Springs Entrance to DisneySea.
• Category: Moderate
• Happy Entry: Tokyo Disneyland
• Example Cost: 60,500 yen ($382) in December.
• Website: Toy Story Hotel

Toy Story Hotel is the only moderate category hotel on this list, and that’s probably why it’s lowest in our rankings—it’s just more basic than the other hotels.

That said, if you have kids or are on a budget, this hotel will likely be your top choice.

The Vibe

The theming is the most overtly Disney of all the hotels. It’s cute, colourful, and over-the-top.

I found it a little overstimulating after a day in the parks (I prefer the more adult vibe of the other hotels), but if you are a big Toy Story fan, you’ll love it.

Two outdoor play areas feature oversized Toy Story characters. Fun for kids and great for photos. This is the only hotel with an outdoor play area (Ambassador has an indoor playground).

The Lotso Garden Cafe (open for breakfast and dinner buffets) has fun details too, but it’s very loud with lots of kids.

The Location

It’s across the road from Bayside Monorail Station and the Fantasy Springs entrance to DisneySea (it took us 10 minutes from our room including the elevator).

Unfortunately, you can only use the Fantasy Springs entrance after 10am. Earlier than that, you have to take the monorail to the main entrance, but we just waited until 10 to avoid the massive queues at the front and walked right in.

To get to Tokyo Disneyland, you take the monorail, which takes about 10 minutes there (although it was 25 minutes from our room, including waiting) and 3 minutes back.

It’s next to Hilton Tokyo Bay, so it’s handy if you want to combine stays, as we did. They both have long driveways, though, so the walk takes about 5 minutes.

Note that non-guests can not enter this hotel (or Fantasy Springs Hotel), so you will have to show proof of stay to enter the grounds.

The Rooms

There isn’t much variety between the rooms. They all have the same Andy’s Bedroom decor with two twin beds plus a trundle bed. Some also have a pull-down bed and can accommodate 4 people.

The main choice is the view, either looking towards the park (you might see the fireworks), Tokyo Bay, or Toy Friends Square (which we chose).

The details are really cute, including an Etch-a-Sketch TV, Mickey watch clock, and posters.

The room isn’t a bad size for Tokyo, but it’s smaller than the other hotels and has limited storage (just a few hangers).

We had space to leave two suitcases open, but that would be tricky if you used the trundle bed.

There is a fridge, tea and coffee making facilities, and a small table with one uncomfortable chair.

The bathroom has the three-room layout you find at all Tokyo Disney hotels, with a sink area between a separate toilet and a bath/shower wet room.

The bath is small for adults (it’s bigger at all the other hotels).

Facilities

The hotel has a buffet restaurant (book as soon as you secure your room), a gift shop, a convenience store, and a coin laundry.

4) Disney Ambassador Hotel

• Location: By Ikspiari mall. Approx 15 minute walk to both parks.
• Category: Deluxe
• Happy Entry: Tokyo Disneyland
• Example Cost: 66,500 yen ($420) in December.
• Website: Disney Ambassador Hotel

The Ambassador Hotel is a good value option if you are looking for more comfort than the Toy Story Hotel and want to be within walking distance of both parks.

It also has the most availability, which is honestly the only reason we booked it for our last-minute visit.

We enjoyed our stay, but I don’t feel as excited about it as I do about our top 3.

The Vibe

It’s themed to 1930s America, during the golden age of Hollywood, with Art Deco design and a sprinkling of Disney characters.

The palm trees add a California vibe, and the corridors feel like you are on a cruise ship.

The Location

The Ambassador Hotel is located next to the Ikspiari shopping centre and a short walk from Maihama train station, the gateway to Tokyo Disney.

I recommend walking around the side of the mall rather than through the confusing interior. This way only took us 5 minutes.

It is located between Disneyland and DisneySea and is a 10-15 minute walk to both.

The Rooms

We booked a standard room with twin beds (some doubles are available if you book early).

Many character-themed rooms are available, and we were upgraded to a Chip and Dale room, which we loved.

The wallpaper and artwork have lots of cute details, but it’s not over the top.

Our room was spacious, with a couch and a table and chairs. We even had a balcony overlooking the hotel entrance (covered in scaffolding during our visit).

There’s a fridge, tea and coffee-making facilities, and a three-room Japanese bathroom layout (with a better-sized bath than Toy Story).

It was the noisiest hotel we stayed in, but maybe we got unlucky. We could hear plumbing above and the kids next door due to a connecting door.

Facilities

The hotel has a gift shop, convenience store, indoor playground, two restaurants (including a character buffet), and a lounge/bar.

In addition, the bakery/deli, Tick Tock Diner, is the only casual restaurant at any of the hotels, but it has limited hours. We picked up pastries to take away in the morning.

There’s no room service, but you can order takeout from the restaurant (no vegetarian options).

The outdoor pool (July to early September) is the biggest Disney pool and looks lovely. As with all the pools, there’s a 3000 yen ($19) fee.

3) Fantasy Springs Hotel (Fantasy Chateau)

• Location: In DisneySea (Fantasy Springs end)
• Category: Deluxe
• Happy Entry: DisneySea and Tokyo Disneyland
• Example Cost: 101,500 yen ($640) in December.
• Website: Fantasy Springs Hotel

Fantasy Springs Hotel is the newest Tokyo Disney Hotel and opened in 2024 as part of the huge new Fantasy Springs expansion of DisneySea.

We’ve stayed there twice and love the beautiful rooms and superb location.

If Fantasy Springs (with its Frozen, Rapunzel, and Peter Pan rides) is a priority for you, I highly recommend staying there.

You get Happy Entry to DisneySea (one of only two hotels that does), and you enter via the special entrance directly into Fantasy Springs.

This hotel sells out almost instantly, though, so you must be prepared. I did manage to get a one-night stay on our last visit (in quieter July) by booking a few days in advance, so always check for cancellations.

The Vibe

The hotel is meant to be the summer palace of a Duchess who discovered the nearby magical springs.

The interior decor feels a little cold compared to our top 2 hotels, but it still has beautiful details and a flowery, feminine feel.

I love the lounge with views into Fantasy Springs, princess artwork in the corridors, and a huge peacock.

There’s also a terrace off the lobby where you can look into the beautiful Fantasy Springs.

You can access the Rose Court garden from there. It has real roses and a lovely Beauty and the Beast fountain.

The Location

It’s in the Fantasy Springs port of DisneySea, but you have to enter by going out the entrance of the hotel and around to the special park entrance. It took us 4 minutes from our room.

Happy Entry is such a perk here. You can head straight to Frozen and only wait 20-25 minutes (vs 2-4 hours for the rest of the day). Then easily get on all the other rides in this order: Rapunzel, Peter Pan, Tinker Bell Buggies.

The Bayside Monorail Station is next door and takes you to Tokyo Disneyland in 10 minutes.

The Rooms

I’d say book any room you can, but they do have different views, and I much preferred the Rose Court over the Entrance Side (which looks out at the Bayside Station hotels).

In particular, we had the “Rose Court Side Superior Alcove Room (Park View)” which looks into the garden with the Peter Pan and Mysterious Island volcanoes beyond.

All the rooms have twin beds, which is a shame for a romantic hotel like this.

We loved our colourful, spacious room. The alcove is great for lounging (or sleeps another person), and there are two comfy chairs and a table by the window.

It has all the usual amenities, plenty of storage, and the three-part bathroom.

Facilities

For a deluxe hotel, it lacks facilities. The lobby is rather small, and there’s no pool or gift shop.

There is a convenience store and laundry room.

The Grand Paradis lounge is a lovely place for a drink and dessert (food options are limited) with views into the park.

The Fantasy Springs Restaurant is pleasant with several elegant rooms, so it feels quieter than some of the hotel restaurants. We’ve only had breakfast there—pretty good but pricey. They also offer buffets for lunch and dinner.

2) Tokyo Disneyland Hotel

• Location: Opposite Tokyo Disneyland
• Category: Deluxe
• Happy Entry: Tokyo Disneyland
• Example Cost: 92,500 yen ($583) in December
• Website: Tokyo Disneyland Hotel

The Tokyo Disneyland Hotel is wonderful and in a perfect location for Tokyo Disneyland.

We’ve stayed there twice and hope to stay there on every future trip. It feels magical!

Thankfully, it’s one of the easier hotels to book, as it doesn’t sell out as quickly as the others.

The Vibe

Tokyo Disneyland Hotel has a Victorian theme and feels grand and elegant but with cute Disney touches (think Mickey in a top hat).

If you want to feel like a princess, this is the place to come!

The hotel exterior is gorgeous, especially lit up at night.

The expansive lobby features chandeliers, a fountain, a stained-glass window ceiling, and plush armchairs.

The Location

You can’t get closer to Tokyo Disneyland park.

Exit the hotel and the monorail station is right there. Head under its arches and the park gates are in front of you.

It took us 3 minutes from our room (including the elevator) to park security!

You can also walk to JR Maihama train station in about 5 minutes (or take the monorail). For DisneySea, hop on the monorail.

The Rooms

We always book the cheapest room—a Standard Superior Room (3rd-4th Floors) — and we choose the double-bed option (not all room categories have this; most are twins).

It’s a comfortable and elegant room with cute Victorian Mickey and Minnie artwork above the bed.

There are two dining chairs and a table by the window but no comfy seating.

It has all the usual facilities, storage, and a three-part bathroom.

It’s the only Tokyo Disney hotel we’ve stayed in that has both a rainfall shower as well as a handheld one.

We appreciate the dresser table in the entrance for putting all our park bits (we miss this at MiraCosta).

Although we don’t pay more for a park view, we’ve always had a view of the monorail and the top of the castle.

We love watching the monorail go past and seeing the fireworks.

Tokyo Disneyland Hotel also has some fun character-themed rooms. I’ve been tempted by the Alice in Wonderland and Beauty and the Beast rooms, but character rooms face the back of the hotel away from the park, so you don’t get a view (and they cost more).

Facilities

The hotel has a gift shop, convenience store, coin laundry, and Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique (for little princess makeovers).

The hotel has two restaurants (one buffet) and a lounge/bar in the lobby. Room service is available.

The Peter Pan-themed outdoor pool (July to early September) is smaller than the Ambassador Hotel’s pool and costs 3000 yen ($19).

There are a few gardens on both sides of the hotel that are worth a stroll.

1) Hotel MiraCosta

• Location: In DisneySea (Mediterranean Harbor)
• Category: Deluxe
• Happy Entry: DisneySea and Tokyo Disneyland
• Example Cost: We paid 123,400 yen ($779) for a Porto Paradiso Side Superior Room Harbor View in October 2025. In December 2026, a Tuscany side room is 122,000 yen ($765), so I expect the Piazza and Harbor View rooms to be more expensive now.
• Website: Hotel MiraCosta

There is no other Disney hotel like the MiraCosta—it is fully immersed in DisneySea’s Mediterranean Harbor.

We have stayed there three times and will be back, despite the high price and the fact that it sells out in minutes!

The Vibe

Think old-world Italian elegance with a dash of Disney. Otherwise described as: What if Mickey Mouse Was in the Renaissance?

In keeping with DisneySea’s nautical theme, there’s a huge ship model in the rotunda lobby and compasses in the hallway carpet. The artwork everywhere is super cute, but it still feels grand.

The Location

You can not beat the location right inside DisneySea!

Some rooms have incredible views into the park, and there’s a private entrance into the park, so it’s easy to pop back to your room throughout the day.

Note that you have to use the main gates when entering during Happy Entry, but it’s only a few minutes’ walk from the hotel.

Happy Entry is a huge perk when people arrive 3 hours before opening for DisneySea.

It’s on the monorail loop, and there’s a special walkway that connects the station to the hotel. The monorail is the easiest way to get to Maihama Station and Tokyo Disneyland, but you could also walk.

Which Side to Choose?

Of all the hotels, Hotel Miracosta is the one where your room type matters most. There are three areas of the hotel:

• Tuscany Side – Rooms overlook the park entrance and are least desirable.
• Venice Side – Some overlook the canals, which would be lovely, but you won’t be able to see the harbor.
• Porto Paradiso Side – This is what you want! This side has views into the park of the Mediterranean Harbor and volcano.

We have always stayed on the Porto Paradiso side because having a view into the park is so special.

You can watch the Believe show from your room (magical and so relaxing!), see the park being cleaned after closing, and sometimes get sneak peeks of rehearsals for new harbor shows early in the morning.

Expect to hear park music until 10pm or so, then again starting around 7am.

The Rooms

We’ve stayed twice in the Porto Paradiso Side—Superior Room Piazza View, which has a double bed option.

It has views of the harbor but from the Venice end, so you watch the Believe night show at an angle. We love this room.

We once had a night in a Porto Paradiso Side—Superior Room Harbor View. This has the absolute best view straight onto the harbor, but it’s more expensive, harder to book, and only has twin beds.

The room does have a couch, unlike the double rooms, and both have a table and chairs by the window.

All the rooms have a similar style with cute details like Mickey the Sailor in maps and tapestries, and all the usual amenities.

The rooms feel a little more dated than the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel and lack the rainfall shower and dresser table that the latter has, but they are still wonderful rooms.

Facilities

There are two restaurants and a bar/lounge. Room service is available.

We’ve had breakfast at Oceano restaurant and at BellaVista Lounge and prefer the lounge. It’s quieter, more intimate, and has fantastic views into the park.

There’s a gift shop but no convenience store, which is quite annoying. The gift shop has a small selection of crisps, chocolate, and pot noodles, but for anything more you’ll need to go to Ikspiari (around a 20-minute walk or monorail hop).

There’s no laundry room, but you can get a serviced clothing wash.

MiraCosta is the only Tokyo Disney hotel with an indoor pool open year-round (10am-6pm; 3000 yen fee). It also has a hot tub, sauna, and poolside bar.

I love using the pool at the end of our stay (before 12pm check-out). It feels so restorative and eases my achy legs.

In summer, there’s an outdoor pool too.

Why We Haven’t Included Celebration Hotel

The Tokyo Disney Celebration Hotel is the only other official Disney hotel, but we haven’t stayed there and have no interest in doing so, as it’s a 20-minute shuttle bus ride away.

It’s the only hotel in the Value category, so it is cheaper than the others. In December, rooms start from 38,000 yen ($238).

If we are trying to save money, we would rather stay in a non-Disney hotel on the monorail line, which makes it much easier to get to the parks.

The only benefit is Happy Entry to Tokyo Disneyland Park, but we don’t think it’s worth the location compromise.

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Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort

If you can’t afford or find availability for an onsite hotel, there are many other hotels in the Tokyo Bay area where Disney is located.

I wouldn’t worry about whether a hotel is affiliated with Tokyo Disney Resort (there are various official and partner hotels).

The only benefits are free shuttle buses to the parks (which some non-affiliated hotels offer) and being able to buy park tickets at the hotel (which you can easily do online).

Instead, I recommend staying near Bayside Monorail Station or within walking distance of the parks.

Hilton Tokyo Bay

We’ve stayed at Hilton Tokyo Bay twice and will likely stay there again.

It’s our top pick if you don’t want to spend the money on a Disney hotel or want to add on a less expensive hotel at the end of your trip.

With rooms from 38,000 yen ($238) in December, it’s cheaper than the Toy Story Hotel and has more comfortable (but less fun) rooms. Plus, it’s easy to find availability.

The location is fantastic opposite the Bayside Monorail Station (and Fantasy Springs Hotel) and next to the Toy Story Hotel.

If you’ve been in Japan a while, you might appreciate the Western-style hotel—we love that they have comfy King-sized beds!

If you choose a Park view room, you can see the monorail and bits of the park (and probably the fireworks), so it feels more immersive.

The Ocean view rooms are more beautiful and peaceful.

The amenities are good, with several restaurants, a casual cafe, a bar, and a Lawson convenience store. There’s a gym and coin laundry.

Unlike Disney hotels, you can eat at the breakfast buffet without reserving a table (it does get busy).

It’s a Tokyo Disney Resort Official Hotel, so there’s a good Disney gift shop onsite too.

There is an indoor pool, but you have to go down to the pool to reserve a time slot, so I’ve never made that happen (plus there’s a fee).

The outdoor pool situation in summer is even more annoying—you can only book it for a certain time window with an expensive package that includes a snack and drink.

Other Monorail Hotels

Other Official Hotels near Bayside Monorail Station include Sheraton Grande Tokyo Bay Hotel and Hotel Okura Tokyo Bay.

We haven’t stayed in any others yet as the Hilton is always our go-to.

Let us know if you have any recommendations near the monorail.

Click here to search for more hotels near Tokyo Disney Resort. 

Hotel Mystays Maihama

We have also stayed at Hotel Mystays Maihama, one of the few hotels within walking distance of the parks.

We could walk to DisneySea in 10 minutes and Disneyland in 20 minutes (there’s also a free shuttle at certain times–it took us 15 minutes). 

The rooms are dated and smaller than the ones above, but they were comfortable enough and had a fridge, kettle, and desk.

It’s a 15-minute walk from the Ikispari shopping centre, where there are plenty of shops and restaurants, and Maihama Station.

It’s not quite as affordable now as it used to be (from around 32,000 yen/$200), so I would definitely choose the Hilton if the price isn’t much higher.

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Tips for Staying Onsite

Booking Rooms

• Booking in advance is essential – You can book Disney hotels four months in advance at 11am JST. It’s important to be on the Reservations and Tickets website before rooms are released and have fast fingers.
• Do a test run for MiraCosta and Fantasy Springs Hotels – These rooms sell out in under a minute.
• You pay a deposit of 30,000 yen (15,000 yen for Toy Story) per room per stay.
• Cancellation is free more than 14 days before check-in for room-only bookings.
• Last-minute availability is possible – Due to cancellations, it’s worth checking.
• Vacation Packages combining hotels, tickets, and Disney Premier Access passes go on sale around 5-6 months in advance and are a little easier to book (but much more expensive).

Room Types and Beds

• If you prefer a double bed, book early for Disneyland Hotel, MiraCosta, or Ambassador. Only a few room types have double beds (and they won’t have a couch). Most Tokyo Disney hotel rooms have twin beds only.
• All beds are firm, but we find them pretty comfortable.
• If you want a King-sized bed, you’ll have to stay offsite. The Hilton Tokyo Bay is a great choice.
• The onsite hotels have some rooms that can accommodate up to 4 people with pull-out trundle beds.
• To choose the best room type for you, go to the hotel page (linked in the reviews above) and see the Guest Rooms section for descriptions of each type.

Restaurants

• If you want to eat at your hotel restaurant, reserve a table as soon as you book a room, as they do book up fast. This includes breakfast.
• Convenience stores in the hotels are good for inexpensive breakfasts such as yoghurt, fruit, sandwiches, and rice balls. MiraCosta is the only hotel without one, so bring snacks.

Checking In and Out

• Happy Entry is not available on your check-in day, but it is on your check-out day.
• If you stay at MiraCosta or Fantasy Springs for only one night, make sure you visit DisneySea on check-out day for early entry. It’s so valuable!
• Save your hotel reservation email – You’ll need it to check in and to access the Toy Story and Fantasy Springs grounds (or in-park MiraCosta entrance).
• Hotels have a strict 3pm check-in time – Your room key won’t work a minute before.
• You can drop your bags off anytime.
• If you do Pre-Check-in, you can complete your paperwork earlier in the day and get your room key. You can only access your room after 4.30pm, though (although we found Disneyland Hotel let us in at 3pm).
• Check-out is a generous 12pm. No need to go to reception. You can check out on the TV (you pay the balance at check-in) and request luggage storage or transfer to another Disney hotel, and drop off the keycard in a box.

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Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs

It is difficult to provide example prices for Tokyo Disney hotels because prices vary by month, day of the week, and room type.

Weekends and peak seasons such as the November/December Christmas season are the most expensive.

It’s also challenging to check room prices at some hotels, as they sell out almost instantly.

I have included what we paid as example prices below, but it’s best to check the website closer to your travel days for more accurate costs.

In general, expect to pay around US$300-400 a night at Toy Story Hotel and $400-800+ at the Deluxe hotels.

What We’ve Paid

Here are some exact prices that we paid in 2025-2026 for a room for two adults.

Our least expensive Tokyo Disney hotel stay was the Toy Story Hotel. We paid 51,000 yen ($322) a night for a weekday in November.

Unfortunately, prices at all the hotels are increasing from October 2026, when Toy Story will cost 60,500 yen ($382).

Our most expensive stay was at Hotel MiraCosta, where we stayed in the incredible Porto Paradiso Side Superior Room Harbor View in October for 123,400 yen ($779).

In June, we had a less impressive (but still very good) view in the Porto Paradiso Side Superior Room Piazza View. This cost 93,000 yen ($587) on a weekday, jumping to 105,000 yen ($663) on a Friday night.

In between was the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel at 67,000 yen ($423) in June for a Superior Room (the cheapest room).

The same room type in busier October last year was 77,500 yen ($489). But in October 2026, that room will cost 92,500 yen ($584).

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Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels

This map shows the Disney onsite hotels in yellow, the more distant Celebration Hotel in orange, and nearby non-Disney hotels in green.

I’ve also marked the main train station Maihama (for access to Tokyo), the monorail stations, and park entrances.

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Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?

If you can afford it, staying in a Tokyo Disney hotel is a worthwhile splurge that provides valuable perks and a magical atmosphere.

Happy Entry to DisneySea when staying at Hotel MiraCosta or Fantasy Springs Hotel is especially useful, as you can avoid an incredibly long queue to get into the parks and secure Premier Access Passes before everyone else.

Those hotels and Tokyo Disneyland Hotel are also incredibly convenient for accessing the parks and make it easy to take breaks.

Our favourite combination is Tokyo Disneyland Hotel and Hotel Miracosta, but we love all the hotels and will happily stay in any of them again.

If the onsite hotels are out of your budget, consider a hotel by the Bayside Monorail Station, such as Hilton Tokyo Bay, for convenient access.

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More Tokyo Tips

Our Tokyo Disney Resort Guides

• 19 Best Tokyo DisneySea Rides for Adults
• 19 Best Tokyo Disneyland Rides for Adults
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access: The Ultimate Guide
• Christmas at Tokyo DisneySea: What to Expect
• Christmas at Tokyo Disneyland: Our Experience + Tips

Our Tokyo Travel Guides

• 26 Cool Things to Do in Tokyo
• 18 Best Things to Do in Shinjuku, Tokyo
• Why Shinjuku is the Best Area to Stay in Tokyo
• 18 Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo
• TeamLab Planets Review: Is It Worth It?

Other Japan Theme Parks

• Ghibli Park Review: Ultimate Guide to Tickets and Attractions
• 13 Best Universal Studios Japan Rides
• Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Explained

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Tokyo Disney Premier Access (DPA) is a paid service that lets you skip the lines at two of the world’s busiest Disney parks—Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea.

It’s similar to Premier Access One at Disneyland Paris and Lightning Lane Single Pass at Walt Disney World Florida and Disneyland California.

With queues for popular rides at the Japan parks often reaching two hours or more, it’s well worth budgeting for some Premier passes to make your day more enjoyable.

Simon and I have spent weeks in the parks in the last few years since DPA was introduced and have learnt the best way to use them.

In this Tokyo Disney Premier Access guide, I cover how to buy passes, costs, the best rides to use them on (and in what order), and more tips. It includes the new included rides from September 2026.

I also cover whether DPA is worth buying for parades and shows.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips

Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass

Tokyo Disney Premier Access is a paid service introduced in 2022 to replace the free FastPass system (used prior to 2020).

From July 2023 to 31 August 2026, you could also skip some lines for free with a “Tokyo Disney Resort 40th Anniversary Priority Pass”.

As of September 2026, free Priority Passes are no longer available, and the most popular rides have paid Premier Access instead.

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Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price

Tokyo Disney Premier Access costs 1000-2000 yen ($6-12) per ride and 2500 yen ($16) for shows and parades (3500 yen/$22 for special seasonal parades).

See below for costs per ride.

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How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?

Ride queues are extremely long at Tokyo Disney parks. All the headliners will be well over an hour all day, and at DisneySea especially, could be over two hours.

At popular times like Christmas, I’ve seen queues over four hours!

With DPA we usually wait 5-15 minutes, often saving ourselves two hours per ride.

For example, in October at DisneySea, the standby lines for Frozen, Soaring, and Tower of Terror were 140 minutes when we used DPA, but we waited under 15 minutes.

Rapunzel was 80 minutes, and we waited 5 minutes.

At Tokyo Disneyland on the same trip, Beauty and the Beast was 90 minutes standby and we waited 10 minutes. Splash Mountain was 60 minutes standby.

Even in June (a supposedly quieter month), the standby queue for Frozen was 180 minutes and we waited 10 minutes with DPA, and Journey to the Center of the Earth was 160 minutes.

It’s not unreasonable to expect to save 8 hours of queuing at DisneySea if you buy 4 DPAs in one day.

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How to Buy Disney Premier Access

Premier Access Rules

You can buy Tokyo Disney Premier Access in the Tokyo Disney Resort app. I recommend downloading it before your trip and getting familiar with it.

You can only buy DPA for the same day after you have entered the park.

Premier Access does sell out, so you should buy your first pass as soon as you enter.

You can select a specific time to ride and will be given a one-hour time slot.

You can ride any time during that hour. Unofficially, you can tap into a ride 5 minutes early (we often do this) and up to 15 minutes late (although that’s riskier).

Once you have purchased a pass, you can buy another one after 1 hour or once your ride slot has started (whichever comes first).

Repeating the same ride is allowed.

Set a reminder on your phone for an hour so you remember to book another one (if you are planning to purchase multiple DPAs).

Using the App to Buy DPA

Here are the steps to booking Tokyo Disney Premier Access:

Before You Arrive at the Park

1. Download the app and scan your ticket QR code into the app if you bought it from a reseller like Klook. If you bought your ticket from Disney, it should show up. Make sure the tickets for everyone in your party are showing up.

2. If possible, save a credit card in your Tokyo Disney account on the TDR website. This uses the same login details as all Disney parks. We usually stay at a Disney hotel, so our card is saved through that transaction. Some international cards don’t work (they need to have 3D Secure), so it’s good to test this in advance.

As Soon as You Enter the Park

1. Have your phone out and the app open before you get to the gates (it can take a few minutes to load).
2. Use the ticket in the app to scan into the park gates.
3. As soon as you are through, tap the Disney Premier Access button on the homepage. We do this while walking, but you could step aside.
4. Select the tickets for everyone in your party who wants to ride.
5. Select the ride you want from the list.
6. Choose a time slot.
7. Agree to the terms, confirm details, and enter your credit card details (if not already saved). It will save the details for your next purchase, saving you time.
8. Your booking will then appear on the app homepage, and you can tap it to get a QR code to scan at the ride entrance (use the Priority Access entrance).

While you are in the app, I also recommend making a free Entry Request for a stage show. You can try once per show per day. If you don’t win this lottery, you could pay for Premier Access (more on that below).

Booking Ride and Parade DPAs

You are allowed to book one ride Premier Access and one show or parade Premier Access at the same time.

If you plan to buy both, book the parade/show DPA first, as the sooner you book, the better seat you get. We’ve had front-row spots for parades this way.

Or, even better, have one person in your party book a ride DPA and another a parade DPA at the same time.

This is what we do. We each have the app on our phones, but we both log in to the same Disney account we used to book our on-site hotel (or tickets). That way we both see the same bookings.

You can also link multiple Disney accounts by creating a group in the app if you don’t want to share a single account.

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Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities

These are the rides that have Premier Access at Tokyo Disneyland (with the current cost), starting with the busiest.

• Enchanted Tale of Beauty and the Beast – 2000 yen
• The Happy Ride with Baymax – 1500 yen
• Splash Mountain – 1500 yen
• Monsters, Inc. Ride & Go Seek! – 1000 yen
• Big Thunder Mountain Railroad – 1500 yen
• Pooh’s Hunny Hunt – 1500 yen
• Haunted Mansion Holiday Nightmare – 1000 yen (this runs from mid-September to December. The regular version of Haunted Mansion may be standby only).

My top pick at Tokyo Disneyland is definitely Beauty and the Beast—we buy this first. We also often pay for Splash Mountain.

I don’t think Baymax is worth the money (see my Tokyo Disneyland rides guide for why).

As the others will only change from Priority Pass to Premier Access in September 2026, it remains to be seen which will be most popular.

An hour after buying Beauty, I would check the app and buy DPA for whichever ride has the longest lines. Monsters, Inc (with its strangely low cost) and Pooh’s Hunny Hunt will likely be my priorities as they are unique to Tokyo Disney.

Currently, none of the Tokyo Disneyland rides tend to sell out until late afternoon at the earliest. We’ll see if that changes after September.

The Japanese website Castel lists the most recent sell-out times for Premier Access in both parks, but you’ll need to use a translation tool.

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Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities

These are the rides that have Premier Access at Tokyo DisneySea, starting with the busiest.

• Soaring: Fantastic Flight – 2000 yen
• Anna and Elsa’s Frozen Journey – 2000 yen
• Journey to the Center of the Earth – 1500 yen
• Toy Story Mania! – 1500 yen
• Tower of Terror – 1500 yen
• Indiana Jones Adventure: Temple of the Crystal Skull – 1500 yen (when it reopens on 30 November 2026)
• Raging Spirits – 1500 yen
• Rapunzel’s Lantern Festival – 2000 yen
• Peter Pan’s Never Land Adventure – 2000 yen

My top pick is Anna and Elsa’s Frozen Journey. This sells out first (often by 9.15am or 9.30am), and if you don’t arrive hours early or have Happy Entry (with a Miracosta or Fantasy Springs Hotel stay), you may miss out.

They do release more DPAs throughout the day, so it’s worth checking.

My second pick is Soaring. This usually sells out by late morning/midday.

Then I would go for Journey to the Center of the Earth followed by Tower of Terror.

Alternatively, you might prefer Rapunzel if lines are long and you haven’t ridden it before.

I don’t think the others are worth paying for. Peter Pan gets much quieter in the evening, or it has a Single Rider line to save time.

The Single Rider lines for Indiana Jones and Raging Spirits can also be useful.

See our Tokyo DisneySea ride rankings for more info on all the rides.

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Premier Access for Parades and Shows

You can also buy Disney Premier Access for parades and shows. This is a separate category from rides, so you can buy one of each at the same time.

The same rule applies: you have to wait an hour to book another show/parade.

Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access for Parades and Shows

Parades

We often pay for Premier Access for Tokyo Disneyland parades. They are excellent quality and a big deal in Japan—some locals save their spots as soon as the parks open.

Paying for Premier means you can turn up 10 minutes before the parade starts and get a much better view than you otherwise would.

Premier parade spots are marked on the ground, so you have a set place. It’s not very spacious.

You must sit on the ground through the entire parade (this is great because everyone can see better).

I recommend doing what the locals do and buying a leisure sheet from the shops to sit on (one sheet is the right size for two people).

The important thing is to buy as soon as you enter the park, as you will get a better spot. We’ve had many front-row spots in front of the castle this way.

If the parade is more popular (such as the Christmas parade), you might be a few rows back.

There are usually three parades a day at Tokyo Disneyland:

• Harmony in Color (regular daytime parade) – 2500 yen
• Tokyo Disneyland Electrical Parade Dreamlights (regular night parade) – 2500 yen
• Seasonal Day Parade (Halloween, Christmas, etc) – 3500 yen (it’s unclear yet whether all seasonal parades will have the higher price).

Shows

You can also pay for DPA for stage shows at Tokyo Disneyland, which we never do.

First, you should try to make a free Entry Request for a show (one per day per show) as soon as you enter the park.

If that’s unsuccessful, and you only have one day and really want to see the show, you could consider paying. These do sell out.

Show DPAs cost 2500 yen and are available for Mickey’s Magical Music World, a delightful music medley in a comfy theatre and my favourite stage show in both parks.

When it premieres on 30 September 2026, DPA will also be available for The D-Groovationz4 Live: Happy! Funky! Groovy! Tour—this will be popular because of the newness.

Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Shows

I don’t recommend DPA for Tokyo DisneySea shows, which cost 2500 yen.

The DPA areas for the night show, Believe! Sea of Dreams, are not that great, so you could end up many rows back.

The two stage shows, Dreams Take Flight and Dance the Globe!, are fun but not really worth paying for. Always try to make a free Entry Request first.

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Premier Access with Vacation Packages

The easiest way to buy Premier Access at Tokyo Disney is by booking a Vacation Package.

These vary but include 1 or 2 nights in a Disney hotel with breakfast, 2-3 day park tickets, perks like free soft drinks, and several DPAs.

The major advantage is that you have your DPAs secured in advance so you don’t have to worry about availability on the day.

If you have limited time and are visiting during a busy time (such as Christmas season or the New Year), they are well worth considering.

A package is more expensive than purchasing the elements individually, though.

We bought an “Enjoy Attractions and more – 3 days” Vacation Package in October, which included 7 ride passes, and it did make things easier.

There’s even an Unlimited Rides Vacation Package, where you can ride all DPA attractions as much as you want (at a price!).

Vacation Packages usually go on sale around 5 months in advance. Check the Tokyo Disney News page for exact dates as it varies. For example, October packages went on sale on 8 May in 2025 and on 19 May in 2026.

While they do sell out, they are easier to secure for popular hotels like Fantasy Springs and Miracosta than a hotel-only reservation (which are released 4 months before and sell out in under a minute!).

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Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?

Yes, Tokyo Disney Premier Access is definitely worth purchasing! Tokyo Disney parks are extremely busy, and Premier will save you hours waiting in line.

I’d go so far as to say that buying Premier is essential for DisneySea if you want to ride more than one or two of the top rides.

Make sure you plan before your trip, decide which rides are a priority for you, and set aside a budget for DPA.

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More Tokyo Tips

We’ve visited Japan and Tokyo Disney many times. Read our other guides for more tips:

Our Tokyo Disney Resort Guides

• 19 Best Tokyo DisneySea Rides Ranked
• 19 Best Tokyo Disneyland Rides Ranked
• Christmas at Tokyo Disneyland: Our Experience + Tips
• Christmas at Tokyo DisneySea: What to Expect

Our Tokyo Travel Guides

• Planning a Trip to Japan: Dos and Don’ts
• 26 Cool Things to Do in Tokyo
• 18 Best Things to Do in Shinjuku, Tokyo
• Why Shinjuku is the Best Area to Stay in Tokyo
• Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo
• TeamLab Planets Review
• TeamLab Borderless Review

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Kamakura is our new favourite city in Japan.

Surfer vibes combine with history in this ancient capital. You’ll find dozens of temples and shrines, a long sandy beach, and a backdrop of green hills.

Cool cafes (with excellent coffee), traditional restaurants, and independent shops are hidden down charming narrow lanes.

It feels green and walkable and so much more chilled than Tokyo or Kyoto—on weekdays anyway.

Kamakura is an extremely popular day trip destination from Tokyo and key spots are packed on weekends (good luck squeezing on the retro Enoden train).

Kamakura deserves more than a day trip, though. There’s so much to do and a longer stay makes it easier to avoid the crowds.

Simon and I had five nights in the city and still didn’t do everything we planned. We even skipped popular places like Enoshima Island, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, and Komachi shopping street.

Instead, we explored at a more laidback pace. We visited some famous temples, but we also sought out quieter shrines, hiked in the forest, swam in the sea, drank coffee in the cutest cafes, and sought out the best vegan food.

In this Kamakura Japan travel guide, I share our picks for the best things to do in Kamakura, where to eat and drink coffee, and how to get there.

Whether you have just one day or I’ve convinced you to stay longer, I hope you get some ideas to enjoy the city in a more leisurely way.

At the end, you’ll find a Kamakura map with all our recommendations.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips

Where is Kamakura, Japan?

Kamakura is located on the coast in Kanagawa Prefecture, about an hour south of Tokyo and 30 minutes south of Yokohama.

It’s easy to get there by inexpensive local train—I include details below.

The nearest shinkansen stop is Shin-Yokohama.

If you are coming from Kyoto or Osaka, the easiest route is to change at Shinagawa. Allow around 3 hours.

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Things to Do in Kamakura

1) Seek Out Seasonal Flora

With many temples and gardens, Kamakura is a top spot to seek out seasonal flora.

In early April, the cherry blossoms bloom, and in late November the maple trees turn red.

Less well known to foreigners is hydrangea season (ajisai in Japanese), which is a big deal in Kamakura.

We were in Kamakura in mid-June, peak season for these wonderfully puffy flowers (although you should be able to see them throughout June).

The colourful blooms are a beautiful sight, but the popular spots get extremely busy even on weekdays (definitely avoid weekends!).

The most famous places to see hydrangeas are Hase-dera and Meigetsu-in (see below).

It’s also worth seeking out quieter temples where the displays may be less extravagant, but you can enjoy them in peace.

2) Admire the View at Hase-Dera Temple

The Hase area is a short hop west on the classic Enoden train from central Kamakura, and it’s a must-visit.

As well as two of Kamakura’s most important temples, it’s a lovely neighbourhood to explore with narrow lanes, charming coffee shops, and some tasty places to eat (our picks are below).

Hase-dera is one of Kamakura’s most famous and oldest Buddhist temples, dating back to the 8th century. It’s known for its large wooden statue of Kannon, the goddess of Mercy.

The grounds are lovely to wander with a main hall, caves, ponds, and gardens.

You can also enjoy a view of town and Yuigahama Beach from the top of the hill.

The gardens are beautiful throughout the year, but they are most popular in June when the hillside is covered with many varieties of hydrangeas in pink, purple, blue, and white.

It’s a stunning sight, but expect crowds—you’ll be walking up and down stairs in a line of other people.

How to Visit Hase-Dera During Hydrangea Season

You must book in advance to follow the Hydrangea Path in peak season (in 2026, this was from 6-26 June).

On our visit, tickets were released at 10am on Tuesday for the following week. There was a queue to access the website and some slots sold out in minutes.

We chose the first 8am slot, which I recommend to minimise the crowds (and arrive 10 minutes early).

The Hydrangea Path costs 500 yen in addition to the 400 yen general entrance fee, which you pay on the day (cash, cards, and IC accepted).

We also bought a special hydrangea goshuin (1000 yen cash only) for our temple stamp book. These are provided on separate paper rather than handwritten at busy times.

Check the Hase-dera website in May for details of booking the Hydrangea Path (dates aren’t released until near the time).

3) See the Great Buddha Daibutsu at Kotoku-in

The Daibutsu or Great Buddha is also located in Hase at Kotoku-in Temple. It’s Kamakura’s most iconic attraction.

This 11.4 metre high bronze Buddha statue was completed in 1252 and is an imposing but serene sight with Kamakura’s hills behind it.

This is another spot that’s worth visiting early to avoid the crowds—at 9.30am it wasn’t too bad.

It’s a fairly quick stop as there’s not much else to see in the complex.

The temple is open from 8am-5.30pm and entry is 300 yen (cash only). We bought a handwritten goshuin for 500 yen.

4) Visit Meigetsu-in, the Temple of Flowers

Meigetsu-in is located in the Kita-Kamakura area in the northern part of the city, just a 3-minute train ride on the JR line from Kamakura Station.

I wish we’d had more time to explore the area as it’s very green and tranquil with lots of temples.

We focused on Meigetsu-in as it’s known as the hydrangea temple. The leaflet we were given showed the flowers that bloom throughout the year, so I’m sure it’s worth visiting outside June (and probably much quieter).

We arrived 20 minutes before 8.30am opening (on a weekday), and there was already a long queue waiting for the gates to open. They let us in 15 minutes early, so it is worth arriving early. When we left an hour later, it was even busier.

At this temple, almost all the hydrangeas are the same variety of Hime Ajisai (Princess Hydrangea) that bloom a vivid blue.

They are truly beautiful, but the crowds made the experience overwhelming.

There were long queues for photos of the most famous spots (including the round window in the main hall), but we skipped those.

Entrance is 500 yen (cash only). There’s no need to book.

We also paid an extra 500 yen for access to the Iris Garden, which is only open for a few weeks in June. In mid-June the irises were past their peak, but at least it was a more tranquil area.

5) Hike the Daibutsu Trail

If you want to escape the crowds in Kamakura, I recommend hiking on the trails that lead through forest around town.

The most popular route is the Daibutsu Hiking Trail, which connects Kita-Kamakura to the Great Buddha in Hase via several temples and shrines.

Although we passed a few groups, it was mostly a peaceful experience.

It’s fairly well signposted, but we still found our AllTrails map useful.

The 3.7km (2.3-mile) trail took us about 1.5 hours at a slow pace (2.5 hours with stops). It was 159 metres elevation gain with only a few steep sections.

We didn’t find it difficult, but good shoes are a must as the trail can be muddy and slippery.

We started from the Kita-Kamakura end with a visit to Meigetsu-in and breakfast at Verve Coffee Roasters.

The trail starts very close to Verve with the entrance up stairs to Jōchi-ji.

This is the fourth out of Kamakura’s Five Great Rinzai Temples and was founded in 1283.

We enjoyed the tranquil forest location with the sound of birdsong as we wandered the paths past several temple buildings, a small bamboo grove, and some hydrangeas.

Entrance is 300 yen (cash only). We paid 500 yen for a handwritten goshuin.

After Jōchi-ji, we walked down an easy paved path before starting up the hill into the forest.

Our next stop was Kuzuharaoka Jinja, a shrine known for bringing romantic luck.

Entrance is free. We did pay 1000 yen for a special double goshuin printed page celebrating hydrangea season.

You can find hydrangeas in the picnic area outside the shrine and throughout. It was an easier place to enjoy them in peace.

Just past the shrine, there are toilets on the right up stairs.

There’s also a good view nearby.

We’d planned to detour to two more shrines—Zenirai-Benten (popular for money washing) and Sasuke Inari Shrine (for its torii gates), but we had a lunch reservation to get to, so we skipped them.

I thought we’d pass Sasuke Inari as it looks like it’s on the trail, but a sign showed us the detour we’d need to take. I believe the trail was damaged after a typhoon and there are no plans to repair it (let us know if that changes).

We enjoyed more forest walking, and then a narrow, steep section down to Hase.

Cheeers Coffee was the perfect place to cool off at the end of the trail. We then had a delicious vegan lunch at Kitotoki (reservations required).

You could visit Daibutsu and Hase-dera after the trail, but we did those on another morning. The Hase crowds felt intense in the afternoon, so we’re glad we didn’t have to deal with them after the hike.

6) Relax on the Beach

The benefit of a longer stay in Kamakura is having time to relax on the beach and swim. It’s a great change of pace from temple-hopping.

Yuigahama Beach is the most popular and accessible beach. You can walk there in 5 minutes from Hase Station.

This long stretch of grey sand isn’t the most attractive beach, but it’s a pleasant place for a barefoot stroll or to relax or swim.

The beach is popular with surfers, but the waves were gentle on our visit, so I enjoyed a few swims. The sea temperature was 25ºC in June—very pleasant. I’ve noticed that locals don’t tend to swim outside the official season, though.

The beach season in Kamakura only runs from July to August, so you won’t find lifeguards or changing huts outside those months. They were building all the infrastructure in June.

At one end of the beach is the Kamakura Seaside Park Sakanoshita Area, which has a grassy area and a tap if you need to wash off your feet. There’s also a Lawson nearby for drinks and snacks.

7) Wander the Neighbourhoods

If you have time to explore Kamakura at a laidback pace, one of the joys is just wandering the neighbourhoods.

It’s a very walkable city with lots of charming narrow lanes and picturesque houses. We loved the Hase and Gokurakuji neighbourhoods in particular, and there are lots more areas we’d like to wander next time.

Of course, please be respectful on these narrow residential streets by keeping quiet and not taking intrusive photos.

A pleasant walk is from Hase over to Gokurakuji, down to the Kamakura Seaside Park (where you can see Mt Fuji if you are luckier than us) and then back along the coastal road to Yuigahama Beach.

We did this in the evening when the day trippers had left, and it was very peaceful.

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Coffee Shops in Kamakura

Simon is a speciality coffee fan (he loves a good geisha or ombligon pourover) and was delighted to discover that Kamakura has many excellent coffee shops.

Spending time in these cafes was a highlight of our laidback Kamakura trip.

All of these except Verve are in Hase.

The Pass

The Pass coffee shop is one of our favourite places in Kamakura.

It’s down the same cute side street as Cotonoha vegan restaurant and has a traditional Japanese feel overlooking a little garden.

There’s a good selection of beans for pourovers, plus espresso drinks and a few non-coffee drinks (I liked the Japanese black tea).

The food menu is limited, but it’s all amazing—chia pudding (with granola, yoghurt and berry compote), magic scone, banana bread, and a buckwheat crepe breakfast wrap (Simon got it without bacon to be vegetarian but not vegan).

The vibe is relaxing even when it’s busy on weekends, the staff is friendly, and they open at 7.30am, so it’s perfect for breakfast before a day of temple-hopping.

Check The Pass Instagram for their closing days, though.

We went to The Pass almost every day; it’s that good!

Idobata

If you just want a quick, takeaway coffee, head to Idobata, a stand near Hase Station.

It has a surprisingly good range of high-quality beans (even geisha) available only as pourover, either hot or cold.

It’s cash only.

Cheeers Coffee

Cheeers Coffee is hidden down a backstreet near Daibutsu. The calming space was a welcome retreat after we finished hiking the Daibutsu Hiking Trail.

They roast their own beans, and you can choose from several types for drip coffee or espresso. Their roasts are a little darker if you’re looking for something more robust.

They have a good selection of non-coffee drinks too—I enjoyed an iced lemongrass tea.

It’s a friendly spot that’s a good option for everyone, whether you are seriously into coffee or not.

Paso by 27 Coffee Roasters

Paso by 27 is in a beautiful wooden house down a side street. The hydrangeas in their small garden added to the charm.

This is a serious speciality coffee shop—they only do hand drip, and you can choose from a selection of beans (some pricey). You can order it hot or cold.

The only other drink option is lemonade. They have a few desserts, but these were sold out on the afternoon we visited.

While the coffee was good at Paso, it can be extremely busy on weekends. We also found it less friendly than the other cafes (understandable given the crowds).

Verve Coffee Roasters

Verve is a chain, and the coffee isn’t quite as good as at the other cafes we visited. But it’s still a fantastic option, especially if you are looking for a wider range of drinks and food.

We visited the branch by Kita-Kamakura station before hiking the Daibutsu trail.
There’s also a branch in central Kamakura.

The grilled cheese sandwich was excellent. Simon liked the Sermon blend used in my espresso so much that he bought a bag of the beans to use with his Aeropress (they worked well).

The waffles and cakes looked good too, and they have a range of teas.

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Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura

We ate so well as vegetarians in Kamakura, and the food is one of the reasons we’d like to return.

All these restaurants are in the Hase area (there are options elsewhere—use the Happy Cow app).

Everywhere except the bakery is vegan-friendly.

Most are open for lunch only, and aren’t open every day, so always check Google Maps and their Instagram for the latest opening hours.

My vegetarian Japan guide has more tips, and I also have recommendations for the best vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo.

Cotonoha

Vegan restaurant Cotonoha is an atmospheric place to eat in a traditional wooden house down a cute side street. It’s my top pick if you only have time for one restaurant.

In June, they were only serving a set lunch for 3900 yen, but there are usually a few options such as curry and buddha bowls.

We were happy with our delicious, filling platter of healthy veggies, tofu, and rice—they use Kamakura vegetables where possible.

Our set also included a small dessert and a hydrangea-inspired butterfly pea tea, which turns from blue to purple when you add lemon.

Kitotoki

Kitotoki is another vegan hidden gem down a backstreet near the Daibustu. They offer set lunches using organic vegetables from their farm.

You have to book a table at this tiny place at least 2 days in advance (I emailed through the Kitotoki website—you’ll need to translate it).

Everything is cooked up by one woman who served us a feast of 15 small dishes including the typical rice, miso soup, and pickles, plus an array of vegetables and delicious fried tofu.

They also offer cooking classes.

Monyeo

On Hase’s main street, we were surprised that this organic Korean restaurant had several vegan options marked on the menu.

We both chose the soft tofu stew set, and it was absolutely delicious but very spicy!

Monyeo is listed on Google Maps as 鎌倉韓国料理 モニョ.

Luna Burger

If you fancy a break from Japanese, Luna Burger is the place to go. They have a huge range of all vegan burgers with interesting toppings such as Massaman Curry, BBQ, or Salsa.

Burgers come with crisps, but we also got a side of fries and excellent onion rings.

We liked it so much, we ate there twice.

Boulangerie Ensemble

Boulangerie Ensemble is a French-style bakery with excellent croissants, pastries, and baguettes.

It’s conveniently open from 7am (rare in Japan), so it’s perfect for an early start. We went there a lot!

For breakfast, we also loved The Pass coffee shop (see above).

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Where We Stayed in Kamakura

We stayed at Ocean Side Shell, a stylish one-bedroom apartment in Hase.

We loved the apartment, and the location was perfect—in a quiet neighbourhood a few minutes’ walk from the beach and 15 minutes from two major attractions—Hase-dera and the Great Buddha.

It’s a 30-minute walk from central Kamakura, but we didn’t need to go there as we found so many good restaurants and coffee shops in Hase.

You can also take the Enoden train from Hase Station (an 8-minute walk away) to Kamakura Station.

The apartment has a surfy vibe with some nice design features. It’s spacious for two people, with a large open-plan kitchen/living room/dining room.

There’s also a terrace with seating and a little bit of a sea view.

The bedroom was small, and the bed was not super comfortable (typical in Japan), but it was ok. It has a huge TV.

The large bathroom included a jacuzzi bath and a very powerful shower.

Our biggest complaint was that the wardrobe in the bedroom was locked, and there were no drawers to store our clothes or even a luggage rack.

There are a few hangers in the entrance cupboard, and we managed to find corners of the room to unpack.

It had all the facilities we needed—a/c, washing machine, and decent kitchen equipment (although as usual in Japan—no perishable items like tea, oil or salt).

Overall, we really enjoyed our five nights and would stay there again. We’ve rented a lot of apartments in Japan and this is one of the best.

Check availability for Ocean Side Shell here.

Or search for other hotels in Kamakura on Booking (the platform we always use).

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How to Get to Kamakura

The best way to get to Kamakura is by train from Tokyo (or Yokohama if you are visiting there).

From Tokyo Station, we took the JR Yokosuka line direct to Kamakura, which took 55 minutes.

It’s a local train, so you can tap in with your Suica or other IC card.

On a Saturday, the train was busy, and not very enjoyable with luggage, but we got a seat fairly quickly.

We later realised that these trains have a Green (first class) Car, which is quieter and more comfortable. I recommend paying the supplement for this, especially if you have luggage.

After tapping onto the platform, you need to pay the Green Car supplement at a machine on the platform. Unfortunately, you need a physical Suica card for this, so it didn’t work with our Apple Wallet Suica.

You can also pay the extra fee on the Welcome Suica app or directly to an attendant on the train (although this will cost more).

When we left Kamakura, we took the train to Tokyo Haneda Airport with a change in Yokohama for the Keikyū Main Line Express. This takes about an hour plus transfer time.

Getting Around Kamakura

The historic Enoden electric train is the classic way to get around Kamakura and an attraction in its own right.

Unfortunately, it gets incredibly crowded on weekends, so I recommend avoiding it then and walking as much as possible.

When we arrived at Kamakura Station on a Saturday afternoon, there were massive queues just to get onto the Enoden train platform, and cars were packed like sardines.

As we had suitcases, we skipped the train and waited in the taxi queue outside instead. No taxis came, and no Ubers would accept us.

We ended up having to walk the 30 minutes to our Hase apartment instead.

On weekdays, the situation was much more manageable, and we rode the train a few times without problems (including when we left).

There are also buses within Kamakura, but we didn’t take any. Google Maps will tell you if they make sense for your destination.

But walking is really the best way to get around Kamakura.

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Map of Kamakura, Japan

This Kamakura map has everywhere I mentioned in this post.

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Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?

Kamakura is definitely worth visiting!

It’s a unique combination of stunning temples, forest, and beach with some excellent cafes and restaurants.

We loved spending the morning temple hopping and the afternoon swimming in the sea.

While it can be busy, it’s not as overcrowded as Kyoto, and you can find quieter spots—just avoid weekends.

We’ll be back to Kamakura for sure!

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More Japan Tips

We’ve spent many months travelling in Japan over the years. Here are more posts to help you plan your trip:

Our Tokyo Travel Guides

• 26 Cool Things to Do in Tokyo
• 18 Best Things to Do in Shinjuku, Tokyo
• Why Shinjuku is the Best Area to Stay in Tokyo
• TeamLab Planets Review: Is It Worth It?
• TeamLab Borderless Review and Tips
• 18 Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo
• Robot Restaurant: The Most Insane Show in Tokyo
• 14 Best Tokyo DisneySea Rides for Adults
• 13 Best Tokyo Disneyland Rides for Adults

Other Japan Posts

• Planning a Trip to Japan: Dos and Don’ts
• 56 Best Things to Do in Japan for an Unforgettable Trip
• Two Weeks in Japan: A Detailed Itinerary

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Our Hokkaido summer trip was so different from our previous Japan visits to the main island of Honshu.

Hokkaido, in the far north of Japan, is a land of wide open spaces, forests, volcanoes, and lakes.

In winter, it becomes a frozen world of white, but during its brief summer, trees burst into life, lushly green, and wildflowers spring up along every road.

We wanted a nature-filled trip, so we skipped the capital Sapporo and focused our self-drive road trip on central and eastern Hokkaido, including two national parks—Daisetsuzan National Park and Akan Mashu National Park.

It’s a huge island, and while driving is easy, it definitely makes sense to focus on one or two areas.

On our Hokkaido road trip, we strolled through lavender fields, hiked up volcanoes, swam in pristine lakes, warmed up in wild hot springs, canoed down rivers, and ate all the delicious soft-serve ice cream.

We had 10 days in Hokkaido, but we travelled at a fairly relaxed pace, so I’ve included suggestions below to adapt our road trip if you only have a week.

In this Hokkaido summer itinerary, I share our route (including famous sights and off-the-beaten-track gems), where we stayed, and tips for visiting in summer.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips

Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance

We had 11 nights and 10 full days in Hokkaido.

If you would rather travel at a faster pace, you could reduce Lake Kussharo by 2 nights and add in a stop at Shiretoko National Park, an unspoilt peninsula where you can see bears. I wish we could have visited, but I don’t regret not rushing around.

We mostly chose self-catering accommodation because we are vegetarian and food options are limited for us in rural Hokkaido.

We flew in and out of Asahikawa Airport (AKJ).

Hokkaido’s biggest airport is New Chitose (CTS) outside Sapporo. This itinerary would work from there, but you’ll have an extra 2.5-hour drive at each end.

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An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary

We travelled at a relatively relaxed pace with plenty of time at Lake Kussharo in Akan Mashu National Park in particular. We usually only did half a day of activities.

If you only have a week in Hokkaido, I recommend this shorter version of our itinerary.

• Sounkyo Onsen – 2 nights
• Lake Kussharo – 3 nights
• Biei – 2 nights

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Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect

Hokkaido is significantly cooler in summer than more southern cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. It’s what initially attracted us on our June visit—to escape the hot, rainy season on Honshu.

At the end of June, we had mild temperatures, usually around 20ºC (68ºF). Our coldest day was 16ºC (61ºF) when it rained in cooler Eastern Hokkaido, and the warmest was 25ºC (77ºF) in Biei.

Up in the mountains, it’s even colder, and Daisetsuzan National Park has a brief summer season (just July and August). In June, it was 12ºC (54ºF), and there was still snow on the ground at the top of Asahidake Ropeway (it snowed in early June!).

Sadly, we didn’t entirely escape the rain. It rained on about half of our 10 days, but mostly not all day—a late afternoon shower was more likely.

It was cloudy most of the time, but we had two glorious sunny days.

If you travel in July or August, it may be warmer in Hokkaido. It’s also likely to be busier due to school holidays from late July to late August. We found it generally quiet except for a few popular tour stops.

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Driving in Hokkaido

We rented a small automatic car via Booking Car Rentals with Orix at Asahikawa Airport. We had an Aqua hybrid (with CarPlay—yay!).

As always in Japan, we found the process very straightforward. Just be sure to have an international driving licence—this is essential!

We found the driving easy with empty roads that are often long and straight (although we drove some winding mountain roads too). They drive on the left in Japan, the same as in the UK.

We used Google Maps to navigate. Save an offline map in advance, in case you lose signal.

Our only complaint is the slow speed limits—60km/h on ordinary roads (slower if marked) and 100km/h on expressways (supposedly—the one we went on was 70km/h). Most drivers do not stick to these.

Expressways have toll charges, which can be quite pricey, but there was only one on our route on our last day, and we could have avoided it. It cost 2500 yen.

We picked up a ticket when we entered the expressway. At the end, we inserted it into the machine at the gate and paid cash (credit cards were also accepted).

When driving around Hokkaido, look out for the excellent Michi-no-Eki (roadside stations) for toilets, snacks, and local souvenirs.

It’s hard to find anywhere to dispose of rubbish, so keep a bag in your car for it.

You’ll also need to keep some cash for parking (which usually cost 500 yen at tourist sights).

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Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip

This map shows all the places we visited on our Hokkaido summer road trip.

And here’s our rough route (without day trips):

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Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail

Day 1: Arrive in Higashikawa (3 Nights)

Drive from Asahikawa Airport to Higashikawa: 20 minutes / 13km (8 miles).

Our flight from Tokyo Haneda (with the excellent Japan Airlines) arrived at 3.45pm at Asahikawa Airport, a tiny regional airport.

We had our luggage and car rental within 25 minutes of landing.

As soon as we walked out of the airport, Hokkaido felt different. First, it was the smell that hit us—like freshly cut grass—and as we drove off, it was the empty roads and the wide-open, vibrant green landscape.

After checking into our Airbnb, we went to the nearby town of Higashikawa for dinner and to stock up on breakfast supplies at the Higashikawa Hokuren Supermarket.

There aren’t many restaurants open in the evening in this sleepy town, and even fewer with vegetarian options, so we lucked out at Bistro Ponsuke.

It’s a Mexican restaurant that feels Japanese with a few seats at the counter and one chef making one thing well.

We had a platter of 5 vegetarian tacos, and it was all amazing. Just don’t expect service to be fast.

Where We Stayed: Sonnet Airbnb House

As we are vegetarian, we wanted the option to self-cater, so we chose an Airbnb in the countryside a 7-minute drive outside Higashikawa.

Sonnet is a one-bedroom, open-plan house with panoramic windows overlooking a flower garden, rice fields, and mountains beyond. We slept to a chorus of frogs and even saw a deer.

We loved the peaceful location, and it had all the basic facilities we needed, including a small kitchen, air conditioning, and a washing machine.

An alternative, if you’d rather stay in a hotel, is Adagio Hokkaido in Biei, where we stayed on our last night before our flight out (see below). It’s closer to the flower fields and has gorgeous views.

Day 2: Biei and Furano Area

Today we drove around the Biei and Furano areas, past rolling green hills, farmland, rice paddies, and flower fields, with the snow-topped peaks of Daisetsuzan National Park on the horizon.

The flowers are the big draw in this area—especially the lavender, which peaks in mid-July. We were a little early on 19 June, but there was still enough to enjoy.

This was the busiest area of our Hokkaido road trip, but it’s popular for a reason.

Make sure you do not walk in the flower fields—keep to the paths.

Our first stop was 40 minutes away, and our furthest stop was 1 hour 10 minutes from our Airbnb.

Panoramic Flower Gardens Shikisai-no-oka

With patterned rows of colourful flowers on a hillside, we knew Shikisai-no-oka was a popular spot, so we arrived just after 8.40am opening to try to avoid the crowds.

One tour bus was just arriving, but it wasn’t too busy, and there was plenty of space for everyone.

If you have mobility issues, you can take a tractor up the hill, but we enjoyed the easy walk.

Although the fields weren’t in full bloom, some sections were still colourful, including the purple catmint, perennial blue salvia, and poppies.

It’s a lovely place to wander with wide-open scenery and the mountains in the distance.

There’s a cafe and gift shop (I preferred the lavender souvenirs at the next stop, though). Simon enjoyed a potato croquette.

Entrance to Shikisai-no-oka is free from October to June and 800 yen from July to September. Parking is 500 yen (cash only, pay at the gate on the way out).

We loved it here so much that we returned on our final morning before our flight. I had a final lavender soft serve, which was nice, but Farm Tomita’s is better.

Farm Tomita

Farm Tomita is the most famous flower garden in the area, especially for lavender. And by 10.15am it was already very busy (I counted 10 tour buses!).

It was still a worthwhile stop, despite the crowds and the fact that it doesn’t feel as expansive as Shikisai-no-oka.

The lavender had started to bloom (the field on the hill at the back was much quieter), and there were other flowers too.

My favourite thing was the lavender soft-serve ice cream in a waffle cone—delicious!

Soft serve (known locally as soft cream) is a big deal in Hokkaido, where more than half of Japan’s raw milk is produced, and this was an excellent start. See my soft serve rankings later in this post.

There are lots of cafes and shops in the complex. We bought some dried lavender sachets and a whole Furano melon (you can also buy a slice), which is famous for its sweetness. At 3100 yen, it wasn’t cheap, but it was so good we had no regrets.

Tomita Melon House next door is another popular spot to try melon in various forms.

Entrance and parking are free at Farm Tomita. It’s 20 minutes from Shikisai-no-oka.

Furano Cheese Factory

20 minutes further on, we arrived at Furano Cheese Factory in time for lunch at their wood-fired pizza restaurant, and it was pretty good!

We were less impressed with their cheese (you can try samples in the shop), but that’s because we’re from the UK and fussy about our cheese. We bought some butter and wine-infused cheddar anyway.

I don’t think the Cheese Factory is a must-do unless you are craving pizza or (like us) are looking for vegetarian lunch options (which are rare around here).

Popura Farm

Our final stop on the way back to our Airbnb was Popura Farm, a roadside melon stand.

The large Santa statue outside confused us until we learnt that their signature dessert is known as Santa’s Beard. It’s half a melon filled with soft-serve ice cream.

It’s pricey at 3300 yen (or 2100 yen for a quarter melon), so we just got a cup of melon soft serve (delicious!) and planned to enjoy our fresh melon later.

One notable absence today was Shirogane Blue Pond. Maybe we missed out, but we couldn’t face another crowded tour bus spot and didn’t think it would live up to the hype, especially on a cloudy day.

Instead, we had a relaxing afternoon enjoying the view at our tranquil Airbnb.

Day 3: Asahidake Hike in Daisetsuzan National Park

Our Hike Stats: 3 hours 50 minutes of walking (plus breaks), 8.27km (5.1 miles), 702 metres (2303 ft) elevation gain.

Today we climbed an active volcano!

We started early for the 40-minute drive to the Asahidake Ropeway in Daisetsuzan National Park, Hokkaido’s largest national park.

After buying a bear bell in the shop (yes, brown bears are an unlikely but potential risk in Hokkaido), we took the ropeway (3500 yen return) up to Sugatami Station at 1600 metres (5249 ft).

Summer arrives late in the high mountains of Daisetsuzan, and there was still plenty of snow on the ground near the ropeway station in June. The temperature dropped to 12ºC (compared to 22ºC in town).

You can do a 1.7km (1 mile) walk around several ponds up here, but we chose the much more challenging hike to the summit of Mt Asahidake—at 2291 metres (7516 ft), Hokkaido’s highest peak.

You definitely need to be prepared for this one. It’s a steep ascent on a rocky trail that took us 2 hours 15 minutes (with plenty of short breaks).

The weather changes fast—we had clouds, brighter spells, fast-descending fog, and finally rain. Luckily, there was no snow on the trail after we began the climb up.

Even on a cloudy day (we couldn’t see much at the summit), it was well worth doing. We loved seeing the volcanic steam vents (with a sulfur smell) and the surrounding snowy mountains during clearer periods.

The descent was slippy, and I wished I had hiking poles (I fell once)—you can buy them in the ropeway shop.

While it was well signposted, the trail can be confusing when fog comes in. We downloaded the AllTrails Mt Asahidake route offline, and it was useful to check our progress.

Pizza Dinner

In the evening, we had a wonderful, good-value pizza at a simple one-man shop, Pizza Tei (ピッツァ亭) in Higashikawa.

We are no longer surprised at finding authentic Neapolitan pizza in small Japanese towns.

Days 4-5: Sounkyo Onsen (2 Nights)

Drive from Higashikawa to Sounkyo Onsen: 1 hour 5 minutes / 66km (41 miles).

Our next stop was on the other side of Daisetsuzan National Park.

Sounkyo Onsen is a tiny hot spring town in a forested gorge next to a raging river. It’s a beautiful spot, although somewhat marred by large ugly concrete hotels (this seems to be common in Hokkaido).

We’d planned to hike up Mt Kurodake from the top of the Kurodake Ropeway and chairlift.

Unfortunately, the ropeway was closed for renovation for most of June, so we skipped the big hike and had a more relaxing stay visiting some waterfalls and soaking in our hotel’s onsen.

We drove a little out of town to the Ginga Ryuseinotaki Parking Lot to see two waterfalls thundering down the cliffs.

You can see them from the river by the car park, but for a better view, walk about 7 minutes up the steep staircase through the forest (behind the gift shop) to the observation deck.

Even better was the Momijidaki Falls Trail. This 3km (1.9 miles) hike from the centre of town takes you through gorgeous, lush forest to an impressive waterfall.

It took us just under an hour return with 147 metres (482 ft) elevation gain. It is quite steep on the way up and slippery on the way down.

You’ll be scrambling over tree roots, so good shoes are a must, but it’s not an overly difficult trail.

Food-wise, there aren’t many options in town, and we’re glad we had half-board at our hotel.

We had a very average but edible pizza at Beer Grill Canyon for lunch, but our favourite spot was the Taisetsu Bakery Cafe in Hotel Taisetsu.

The French-style pastries were delicious, and the coffee was decent.

Where We Stayed: Choyo Resort Hotel

We have mixed feelings about Choyo Resort Hotel. There are quite a few downsides, but we enjoyed our stay and would recommend it if you manage your expectations.

This is a large, dated hotel that caters to tour groups. Not usually our vibe, but there aren’t many options in town.

Our modern twin room was worn and rather small, but we loved the view of the forested mountain and the sound of the gushing river below.

A highlight was the onsen, with several indoor and outdoor hot spring baths overlooking the forest, as well as a sauna and a cold plunge pool.

The baths do get busy, but there’s plenty of space. As most people only stay one night, we had them to ourselves on the second day from 1-3pm (check-in is a strict 3pm).

We didn’t expect much from the dinner buffet as vegetarians, but we had plenty to eat—rice, salad, fresh asparagus tempura, grill-your-own veggies, plus cakes and soft serve for dessert. If you eat meat and fish, there are tons of choices.

Overall, Choyo Resort Hotel was good value compared to other options, and it was fine for a short stay.

Day 6: Lake Kussharo in Akan Mashu National Park (5 Nights)

Drive from Sounkyo Onsen to Lake Kussharo: 3 hours / 164km (102 miles).

Our longest drive so far took us through stunning, unspoilt forested mountains before opening up into agricultural land and small towns.

Our only stop was at one of Japan’s excellent Michi-no-Eki (Roadside Stations), where you can find snacks, souvenirs, and toilets.

Bihoro-toge on the Bihoro Pass has a rest area on the second floor where we ate our packed lunch (7-11 rice balls) with a view of Lake Kussharo.

I also tried kumazasa (bamboo leaf) soft serve, which had a strong matcha-like flavour.

Walking up the hill gave us an even better view of Japan’s largest caldera lake, where we’d be spending the next five nights.

It’s part of Akan Mashu National Park, which includes three major lakes (Akan, Mashu, and Kussharo) as well as volcanoes, forests, and hot springs. It’s home to settlements of Ainu, the indigenous people of Japan.

You can find a more detailed guide to everything we did in my Akan Mashu National Park travel guide, but I’ve summarised our itinerary below.

Where We Stayed: Birch & Lake Airbnb House

Self-catering accommodation is limited in Akan Mashu National Park, and most Airbnb options were at the southern tip of Lake Kussharo. It ended up being the ideal location, close to most of the activities we did.

We stayed at Birch and Lake, a one-bedroom, two-storey house in a small settlement of holiday homes a short walk from the lake.

While it was pretty simple, it worked well for us and even had an indoor onsen bath.

Day 7: Mt Io and Lake Kussharo

We spent the morning shopping for supplies in Teshikaga, the main town in the area, 15 minutes from our Airbnb.

In the afternoon, we did a loop drive (40 minutes total) to some of the attractions in the Lake Kussharo area. See my Akan Mashu guide for more tips.

You could combine Days 6 and 7 if you have more energy than we did. You could even add in Lake Mashu (from Day 8) if you don’t want to do the hike.

Mt Io

Mt Io is an active volcano with geothermal activity. After parking at the Mokmok visitor centre, it’s a short walk to get up close to steaming fumaroles and smelly yellow sulphur mounds.

Sunayu

At this hot spring beach on Lake Kussharo, you can dig in the sand to make your own foot bath (and the water is seriously hot!).

It’s a fun and unique experience.

Ikeno-Yu Hot Spring

Ikeno-Yu is one of the free rotenburo (outdoor hot spring baths) on Lake Kussharo.

Swimsuits are allowed, as they are mixed-gender and not very private.

We had the onsen to ourselves for most of the time, and it was so relaxing. Simon didn’t love the algae in this natural bath, though.

There’s a nice cafe called Wakka Tomari next to the onsen.

Day 8: Mt Mashu Hike

Our Hike Stats: 4.5 hours of walking (plus 1 hour of breaks), 14.4km (9 miles), 834 metres (2736 feet) elevation gain.

The best day of our trip!

Lake Mashu is a crater lake that is famous for having some of the clearest water in Japan.

You can only admire it from above as you can’t go down to the water.

The lake is notoriously foggy, so we chose the sunniest day of our stay to visit and lucked out with glorious weather.

If you just want a quick look, Lake Mashu Observatory No. 1 has stunning views plus a cafe, shop, and toilets.

If you like hiking, I highly recommend the Mt Mashu hike, which starts at the observatory and follows the caldera rim up to the highest peak above the lake.

The views of the lake from the summit were spectacular!

While the ascent was easier than at Mt Asahidake, this hike is longer, and the return journey was what got to us. Those gentle undulations feel less gentle when you are going uphill on the way back. Absolutely worth it though!

Day 9: Wakoto Peninsula

Today was a leisurely day with a morning off, then a gentle walk and swim in the afternoon.

You could easily combine days 9 and 10 of this Hokkaido itinerary.

Wakoto Peninsula Loop Walk

The volcanic Wakoto Peninsula was only a 5-minute drive from our Airbnb.

The easy Wakoto Peninsula Loop Course took us 50 minutes through forest and past an observation deck with views of steaming fumaroles in the lake.

Wakoto Hot Spring

After the walk, I took a dip in the lake at the beach (16ºC/61ºF water temperature), then warmed up at Wakoto Hot Spring, another of the free mixed-gender onsen.

Again, we mostly had it to ourselves. It’s a lovely spot and better for swimming than Ikeno-yu.

Day 10: Canoeing and Sakura Falls

Despite lots of rain, this turned out to be an excellent day, with one of our favourite activities in Hokkaido.

Canoeing

The Kushiro River flows from Lake Kussharo to the Pacific Ocean, and canoeing down its calm headwaters is one of the top activities in the area.

We did a 90-minute canoe trip with Kussharo Eco Tours, which I highly recommend.

I wish we had booked more than a few days in advance so that we could have done a longer trip (most tours with various companies were sold out).

It’s a beautiful river and a really easy trip. As we drifted downstream, the guide controlled the canoe, and we didn’t have to paddle! We just sat back and enjoyed the scenery.

Sakura Falls

Our canoe guide recommended that we visit Sakura Falls, a waterfall a 40-minute drive away (Mt Io is on the way, so you could combine them).

From June to August, you can see the unusual sight of cherry salmon trying to jump up the 3-metre gushing falls.

They are returning from the ocean to lay their eggs in the river and must navigate the waterfall.

Unfortunately, few of them actually make it. It did seem like an impossible feat, but it was impressive to watch them try their hardest.

Parking is free here, but there are only portaloos. Signs off the highway are in Japanese only, but we followed Google Maps directions successfully.

Day 11: Lake Akan and Drive to Biei

Drive from Lake Kussharo to Biei: 4.5 hours / 300km (186 miles).

We took the slightly longer route (which included a toll expressway) back to Biei so we could stop at Lake Akan on the way.

We’d originally hoped to hike nearby Mt Meakan, but the summit was closed due to volcanic activity.

We made a quick stop at Akanko Onsen, a lakeside village with large concrete hotels by the water, known for their hot springs.

We parked at Akankohan Parking Lot, which is free and has toilets.

A 30-minute return walk on the lakeside forest path took us to the bokke, bubbling volcanic mud pools.

Our only other stop was the large Roadside Station Minami-Furano, which has all the usual facilities.

Where We Stayed: Adagio Hokkaido

We chose to stay near Biei on our last night to be near the airport for our flight the next day.

Adagio Hokkaido is an inn with wonderful views of the countryside from our room, dining room, and shared living space.

Our room was pleasant with a rare double bed.

We appreciated the thoughtful touches, such as afternoon tea on arrival (from 3-5pm) and a pour-over coffee maker and grinder in our room.

We paid extra for a 5-course European-style dinner, which was convenient (restaurants in Biei close early), and they could cater to us as vegetarians.

The next day, we flew out of Asahikawa Airport, with plans to return to beautiful Hokkaido in a different season.

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More Japan Tips

We have visited Japan many times. Read our other guides to help you plan your trip.

• Akan Mashu National Park Travel Guide (Hokkaido)
• Planning a Trip to Japan: Dos and Don’ts
• 17 Unmissable Places to Visit in Japan
• 26 Cool Things to Do in Tokyo
• Two Weeks in Japan: A Detailed Itinerary
• 56 Best Things to Do in Japan for an Unforgettable Trip
• Vegetarian Survival Guide to Japan
• Where to Stay in Japan: A Guide to Accommodation Options

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Akan Mashu National Park is a beautiful wilderness reserve in eastern Hokkaido, far away from the typical tourist trail in Japan.

You’ll find pristine caldera lakes, active volcanoes, ancient forests, and natural hot springs. It’s home to settlements of Ainu, the indigenous people of Japan, and wildlife such as brown bears and foxes (we only saw the latter).

The large park is divided into two areas. The smaller, western side is home to Lake Akan and its hot spring resort. It’s an hour’s drive to the eastern side, which includes Lake Kussharo and Lake Mashu.

We spent 5 nights at Lake Kussharo exploring the national park. We swam in the lake, canoed down a river, soaked in hot springs, got up close to volcanic activity, and did one of the best hikes of our lives for incredible views of Lake Mashu.

In this Akan Mashu National Park travel guide, I share our favourite activities, where we stayed, and how to get there. You’ll find a map at the end.

This post focuses on summer activities as we visited in late June. Winter looks beautiful, and you can still do many of these activities, but it’s a different experience with deep snow and sub-zero temperatures.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Akan Mashu National Park?
• Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area
• Things to Do at Lake Kussharo
• Lake Akan
• Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park
• Map of Akan Mashu National Park
• Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips

Where is Akan Mashu National Park?

Akan Mashu National Park is located in Hokkaido, a large region and island in the far north of Japan.

The park is in the remote eastern side of Hokkaido, a 5-hour (350km/ 217 mile) drive from the regional capital Sapporo and over 1400km (870 miles) north of Tokyo.

The easiest way to explore the park is by car, as public transport is very limited.

We visited Akan Mashu as part of a Hokkaido summer road trip. It was a 3-hour drive from our previous stop, Sounkyo Onsen, to Lake Kussharo, and 4.5 hours to our next destination, Biei.

We flew into Asahikawa Airport (from Tokyo Haneda on Japan Airlines), which worked well for our itinerary, but it’s around a 4-hour drive to the park. We rented a car at the airport using Booking Car Rentals.

Kushiro Airport and Memanbetsu Airport are the nearest airports to Akan Mashu National Park, both about an hour away.

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Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area

I’ve divided these activities in Akan Mashu National Park around the three major lakes: Mashu, Kussharo, and Akan.

If you want to see how we combined the various destinations, see our Hokkaido Itinerary.

Here are some of the best things to do at Lake Mashu.

1) Admire the View at Lake Mashu Observatory No 1

Lake Mashu is a crater lake with some of the clearest water in Japan (perhaps the world) because no rivers feed into it. Its sapphire hue is known as “Mashu Blue”.

The Ainu people call this sacred lake Kamuinupuri, which means “Lake of the Gods.”

You can’t go down to the water, but you can admire it from above at several observation decks.

Lake Mashu Observatory No. 1 is the most popular—the views are stunning, with comfy seating on the outdoor terrace to enjoy them. There’s also a cafe, gift shop, and toilets.

We enjoyed the Mashu Blue soft-serve ice cream. Other snacks include potato dumplings, grilled corn, and deep-fried potatoes.

Parking at Observatory No. 1 costs 500 yen (cash only) and includes same-day parking at Mt Io, a 20-minute drive away.

Lake Mashu is notoriously foggy, so we chose the sunniest day for our visit. When we woke up, we checked the webcam, and it was unfortunately shrouded in fog. Luckily, an hour later, it had cleared, so conditions can change fast.

2) Hike Mt Mashu for Astounding Views of Lake Mashu

Our Hike Stats: 4.5 hours of walking (plus 1 hour of breaks), 14.4km (9 miles), 834 metres (2736 feet) elevation gain.
AllTrails Page: Mount Mashu.

The Mt Mashu hike was our absolute favourite activity in Akan Mashu National Park—it helped that we had a glorious sunny day.

The trail to the highest peak on the rim of the Lake Mashu caldera starts at Observatory No. 1.

When we arrived at 8am, there was no one around. After signing the visitor book at the trailhead, we set off on the long hike to Mt Mashu (or Kamuinupuri is the Ainu name).

Rather than one long, steep ascent to the top, this hike starts more gently, with undulating hills through the forest and occasional lake views, then a climb for about 30 minutes.

It then opens up to expansive views of the lake and surrounding countryside and easier walking along the ridge.

The final 40 minutes are the steepest, and the last 400 metres are up a narrow, steep, and rocky path, but it wasn’t too challenging.

It was absolutely worth it for the incredible views of the entire lake and down into the crater. Stunning!

The return journey was actually the hardest for us. Those gentle undulations feel less gentle when you are going uphill on the way back after hours of walking.

There are a few picnic areas that are good for breaks, but no other facilities.

It was a truly wonderful day and a great way to enjoy Lake Mashu if you have a clear day and are up for a long hike.

We didn’t see anyone else until near the summit, so it was also a tranquil experience.

Bears are always a risk in this area, so add a bear bell to your backpack to warn them of your approach.

3) See the Fumaroles at Mt Io

Mt Io (Iozan) is an active volcano with geothermal activity.

It’s an easy, short stop—park at Mokmok (500 yen, cash only, also valid for parking at Lake Mashu Observatory No. 1 on the same day).

The visitor centre here has toilets, a souvenir shop, and good vanilla soft serve (you can also get it with an onsen egg!). There’s a nice indoor seating area with a view.

It’s a short walk to see steaming fumaroles, bubbling pools of boiling water, and yellow sulphur mounds.

Iozan means “Sulphur Mountain,” and until the 1970s, it was a sulphur mine. It still lives up to its name with an intense smell of sulphur (we had to wash our clothes after our visit!).

If you want a longer walk, the 5km (3 mile) Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail takes you to the visitor centre in Kawayu Onsen and back.

We only walked part of it, but the stone pines were a lovely-smelling contrast to the sulphur.

A bear had been seen 10 days before our visit, so take a bear bell (you can buy one in the shop).

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Things to Do at Lake Kussharo

Lake Kussharo is the largest caldera lake in Japan, with a circumference of 57km (35 miles). The water is very clear, and it’s one of the best places in the park for swimming, canoeing, and hot springs.

4) Canoe on the Kushiro River

A close second for our favourite activity in Akan Mashu National Park was canoeing from Lake Kussharo down the headwaters of the Kushiro River.

The Kushiro River flows from Lake Kussharo to the Pacific Ocean, and the calm, pristine water is perfect for canoeing.

Unfortunately, I left it until two days before to book, and a couple of companies were already fully booked.

I wanted to do a longer tour but could only find a 90-minute canoe trip with Kussharo Eco Tours (you’ll need to translate their website from Japanese).

The private trip cost 8000 yen each (cash only). I booked via email, and they spoke English.

We ended up really happy with our choice. Our guide Sachi gave us lots of interesting information about the area and pointed out birds and fish (including teeny baby salmon) on the way. We even saw some deer.

It’s more of a sightseeing trip than exercise as you glide downstream with no need to paddle. The guide controls the canoe, and we only did a little bit of paddling on the lake before heading down the river.

It made it a super relaxing, peaceful trip. The river is beautiful—very green and lush in summer, with low tree branches you have to duck under.

Towards the end, we stopped for a break at a shallow section. Sachi brought out chairs for us along with delicious herbal tea and a snack, so we could sit and enjoy the lovely environment.

While I do wish we had booked further in advance so we could have done a longer trip, the short trip is still well worth doing. We absolutely loved it!

Don’t let rain put you off. We had a great experience in drizzle, and the company provides full rain gear and boots.

We are very tempted to come back and canoe in winter, too—the river doesn’t freeze even when the lake does, so you can paddle through a snowy wonderland.

5) Dig Your Own Foot Bath at Sunayu

Sunayu is a unique beach on Lake Kussharo where you can dig into the sand to reach the hot water beneath and make your own foot bath.

The water is very hot, so we found being close to the lake was best in order to mix in some cooler water. It’s a fun experience!

There was a stand that rented out shovels and chairs, but it was closed on our visit.

Parking across the road is free. There are toilets, a shop, a restaurant, and swan boats to rent.

6) Soak in a Free Outdoor Hot Spring

Lake Kussharo is home to several free rotenburo, outdoor hot spring baths.

Unlike most onsens, swimsuits are allowed (but not required, so expect nudity) as they are mixed gender and not very private.

If you want to swim in the lake, you must wear a swimsuit.

Facilities are limited to just basic changing cubicles (sometimes without doors).

These are the three main rotenburo (it’s only a 15-minute drive between all three):

Kotan-no-yu

Kotan Onsen is the best-known hot spring at Lake Kussharo, offering wonderful views of the lake.

It’s the smallest one, though, with a low wall separating the male and female sides. There is a changing cubicle on each side with doors.

When we visited, it was closed and emptied of water, so we didn’t try it. Perhaps this means it is better maintained than the others, though.

There’s a toilet by the parking area, a few minutes’ walk away.

Ikeno-yu

Ikeno-yu was my favourite onsen. It’s a fairly large mixed gender bath with a beautiful view of the lake.

We had it to ourselves most of the time on a weekday (it was busier when we returned on a weekend).

There is a lot of algae in the water, which didn’t bother me, but Simon was not a fan.

There are male and female changing cubicles (although the door on the women’s was broken), but no toilets (the ones at Kotan are only 5 minutes away).

I swam in the lake here, but it’s rocky and shallow and hard to get in. I was glad for my water sandals.

It’s a really beautiful and relaxing spot. We even saw a rare black fox nearby.

Next to the hot spring is the peaceful cafe Wakka Tomari. It has limited hours, but we returned on the weekend and enjoyed the cheesecake, ice cream, and lake views.

Wakoto Hot Spring

Wakoto Hot Spring is another free mixed-gender onsen with basic changing rooms (no doors) and nearby toilets.

If you are doing the Wakoto Peninsula walk (see below), you pass the hot spring near the beginning and end of the loop.

The hot spring was shallow and had algae, but I still enjoyed it. The highlight for me was swimming in the lake from the beach next to it, which was easier to access.

Note that there is parking right next to the hot spring, but it’s only for quick baths. Don’t park here if you are hiking or hanging out at the beach—the main car park (Wakotohanto Kokyo Parking Lot) is less than 5 minutes’ walk away, so park there instead.

7) Do an Easy Walk on the Wakoto Peninsula

Our Hike Stats: 50 minutes, 3.3km (2 miles), 105 metres (344 feet) elevation gain.
AllTrails Page: Wakoto Peninsula Loop Course.

The Wakoto Peninsula was originally a volcanic island that eventually connected with the lakeshore.

The Wakoto Peninsula Loop Course is an easy walk through the forest around the peninsula. Halfway round is an observation deck overlooking the lake, where you can see steaming fumaroles.

The geothermal activity means that the peninsula is hotter than the surrounding area, and the autumn leaves change a few weeks later than elsewhere.

It’s not a must-do walk, but it was pleasant, easy, and quiet. It was perfect combined with a lake swim and soak at Wakoto Hot Spring.

There’s a large free car park next to Petetok (where you can arrange SUP tours—I wish we had done this) with toilets and a small shop. Wakoto Field House provides information on the area’s flora and fauna.

8) Swim in Lake Kussharo

Our Airbnb host warned me that June was too cold for swimming in Lake Kussharo, and I didn’t see anyone else swim, but I’m a hardy Brit and found the water a pleasant 16ºC (61ºF).

It’s especially easy to take a dip in the lake when you can warm up afterwards in one of the hot springs.

The water is super clear, and the surrounding scenery is beautiful, so I definitely recommend a dip if you can handle cool water.

The lake is rocky, so water shoes make it easier to get in (I wore my Teva sandals).

You could swim at any of the hot springs or Sunayu beach, but I think the best spot is the beach on the Wakoto Peninsula, next to Wakoto Hot Spring.

The water was calmer, deeper, and easier to access there.

On a sunny day, the beach would be a great place to relax with picnic tables on the grass next to it.

9) Enjoy the View at Bihoro Pass

On our drive to Lake Kussharo, we stopped at the excellent Michi-no-Eki (Roadside Station), Bihoro-toge on the Bihoro Pass for spectacular views of the lake.

There are snacks, souvenirs, and toilets, and on the second floor, there is a rest area where you can eat, enjoy the view, and even play the piano.

I tried the unique kumazasa (bamboo leaf) flavour soft serve, which tasted similar to matcha.

You can walk up the hill (about 7 minutes) for even more expansive views of the lake.

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Lake Akan

Lake Akan is another crater lake that’s known for its marimo, rare algae that form into balls.

This side of the park is where we spent the least amount of time, so I don’t have many suggested activities.

We’d originally hoped to hike nearby Mt Meakan, one of the best hikes in the park with incredible views and a lunar-like volcanic landscape.

Unfortunately, the summit was closed due to volcanic activity.

Instead, we made a quick stop at the lakeside village of Akanko Onsen. We parked at Akankohan Parking Lot, which is free and has toilets.

We did a 30-minute return walk on the easy lakeside forest path to the bokke, bubbling volcanic mud pools.

You could also take a cruise on Lake Akan with Akan Sightseeing Cruise Company. The 85-minute trip includes a stop at the Marimo Exhibition Center on an island. There’s no need to book in advance.

Also at the lake is Ainu Kotan, a small Ainu village with a museum and shops selling handicrafts.

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Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park

Akanko Onsen

Akanko Onsen, a hot springs resort at Lake Akan, is the most popular place to stay in the national park.

There are several large hotels on the lake, such as Akan Yuku no Sato Tsuruga, which has beautiful hot springs with lake views.

Lake Akan would be a good base if you want the most choice of hotels and restaurants (although it’s still a small town), or your priority is hiking nearby Mt Meakan.

Lake Kussharo: Where We Stayed

We are vegetarians and eating out in rural Hokkaido is challenging, so we decided to stay in self-catering accommodation.

Airbnbs are limited in Akan Mashu National Park, but we found the most options at the southern tip of Lake Kussharo.

It ended up being an excellent location close to the lake for swimming, canoeing, and hot springs. It’s only a 25-minute drive from Lake Mashu (which has no accommodation).

Restaurants are limited at the lake, but the town of Teshikaga is only 15 minutes away (we stocked up on groceries at the Fukuhara supermarket there).

If you’d rather stay in a hotel, the only option on the lake is the Kussharo Prince Hotel. It looks rather dated but has an onsen and lake views.

Kawayu Onsen has more hotels and is between Lake Kussharo and Lake Mashu, but it had a very deserted town vibe when we drove through.

Our Airbnb House

We stayed at Birch and Lake, a one-bedroom, two-storey house close to the lake.

It’s fairly simple and a little dark downstairs, but it’s comfortable enough and spacious for two, with a cosy living nook, a large dining table, and kitchen counter seating.

A highlight was the indoor onsen bath with hot water direct from a spring, which we really appreciated after hiking.

It also has a washing machine, air conditioning/heating (we needed both at different times!), and a pretty well-equipped kitchen.

The upstairs bedroom has five single beds, which is not ideal for us, but it’s typical in Japan. I loved the view of the trees from up there (it must be amazing in autumn).

Our biggest complaint was that they only provided two large towels (no small ones or kitchen towels).

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Map of Akan Mashu National Park

This map includes everywhere mentioned in this Akan Mashu guide.

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Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?

Akan Mashu National Park is definitely worth visiting as part of a longer Hokkaido trip if you enjoy lakes, hiking, and hot springs.

We loved having five days in the area, so we had plenty of time to relax at the lake as well as hike and canoe. We could have spent even longer to do a paddleboarding tour and more hikes.

Eastern Hokkaido is one of the cooler parts of Japan, so it’s a great spot to escape the summer heat of Honshu (Japan’s main island).

Although you can’t guarantee beach weather at Akan Mashu—in late June, we had temperatures ranging from a rainy 16ºC to a sunny 22ºC (61-72ºF).

While we came across a few tour buses at Mt Io, we generally found Akan Mashu a tranquil place to visit and often had places to ourselves. It’s an excellent spot to escape the overtourism in more visited parts of Japan.

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More Japan Tips

Read some of our other guides to travelling in Japan:

• Summer in Hokkaido Itinerary: Our Nature-Focused Road Trip
• Planning a Trip to Japan: Dos and Don’ts
• 17 Unmissable Places to Visit in Japan
• 26 Cool Things to Do in Tokyo
• Two Weeks in Japan: A Detailed Itinerary
• 56 Best Things to Do in Japan for an Unforgettable Trip
• Vegetarian Survival Guide to Japan
• Where to Stay in Japan: A Guide to Accommodation Options

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Alassio is an elegant beach town in the Italian region of Liguria.

Pastel-coloured villas overlook a long sandy beach with green hills beyond. The pedestrianised streets close to the beach feature upmarket shops and are lined with orange and palm trees.

It’s an ideal spot to combine beach relaxation with hiking or biking in the surrounding hills. There’s even one of the most beautiful gardens in Italy.

This part of the Italian Riviera, the Riviera di Ponente, is popular with Italians for its sandy beaches, but it’s less well known with foreigners.

Even though Alassio’s English heritage is an important part of its history, Brits seem to have forgotten about it. They are missing out.

We loved our four days here at the end of April (perfect for avoiding the summer crowds).

In this Alassio travel guide, I share our picks for the best things to do in Alassio, where to eat and stay, and how to get there.

At the end, you’ll find an Alassio map with all our recommendations.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Akan Mashu National Park?
• Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area
• Things to Do at Lake Kussharo
• Lake Akan
• Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park
• Map of Akan Mashu National Park
• Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Alassio, Italy?
• The British Heritage in Alassio
• Best Things to Do in Alassio
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Alassio
• Where to Stay in Alassio
• How to Get to Alassio
• Alassio, Italy Map
• Is Alassio Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips

Where is Alassio, Italy?

Alassio is located on the coast of Liguria, a region in northwest Italy between Tuscany and France.

The coastline is known as the Italian Riviera, which is divided into two parts. The Riviera di Levante (“the coast of the rising sun”) lies between Genoa and the Tuscan border and includes some of the best-known spots, such as Portofino and Cinque Terre.

See my Italian Riviera travel guide for more information on the Riviera di Levante.

Alassio is located on the other side of Genoa, on the Riviera di Ponente (“the coast of the setting sun”), which stretches all the way up to France.

The nearest major city (and international airport) is Genoa (Genova in Italian), which is 95 kilometres (59 miles) northeast along the coast.

I include details on how to get to Alassio below.

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The British Heritage in Alassio

Alassio was once a popular spot with the British, who were attracted by the mild winter climate and quieter vibe than the increasingly cosmopolitan French Riviera.

British colonisation began in 1875, when Scotsmen George Gibb and General McMurdo visited the town with their wives. They enjoyed their winter in Alassio so much that they purchased land and built elegant hillside villas.

McMurdo’s villa, Villa della Pergola, is now a luxury hotel, and the gardens he created are still thriving.

Following the men’s example, more foreigners arrived, including the influential Hanbury family (who later bought Villa della Pergola). They were known as the English, but the community included Scots, Irish, Canadians, South Africans, and New Zealanders.

Over the years, the colony built an Anglican church, an English Library, and the Hanbury Tennis Club for the growing community, which peaked in the 1920s with around 2000 British residents.

However, World War II forced the Brits to leave Alassio, and only a few families returned afterwards.

While the library and tennis club still remain, Alassio fell off the radar for British travellers, and we only heard Italian (and a few French and German) voices during our stay.

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Best Things to Do in Alassio

1) Take a Garden Tour at Villa della Pergola

Villa della Pergola was built in 1875 by General McMurdo, one of the first Brits to settle in Alassio.

After changing ownership to several Brits and then an Italian family, the villa is now a luxury hotel with one of the most beautiful gardens in Italy.

If you’re not a hotel guest, you can only visit the gardens on a guided tour.

We were lucky to be visiting in April—wisteria season! The villa has a stunning collection with more than 40 varieties of the purple and white hanging flowers.

We also saw cacti, citrus trees, an ancient fern, beautiful ponds, and more. There’s a beautiful view down to Alassio, too.

The tour is in Italian, but we were given an information sheet in English, and the guide translated key facts. She spoke English, so we could ask questions.

The 80-minute guided tour costs €19 for adults. They take place four times a day from spring to autumn, and it’s best to book in advance on the Giardini di Villa della Pergola website.

The villa is up a hill, with no on-site parking for garden visitors. It’s a 10-minute walk from Alassio train station, and you can find a shortcut underpass at Via Gibb 30.

Be sure to wear covered shoes–heels and flip flops aren’t allowed.

Even though we’re not usually fans of tours, this one is well worth doing if you enjoy gardens.

2) Relax on Alassio Beach

Sandy Alassio Beach is 3km (1.9 miles) long, with shallow, usually calm water (waves pick up when it’s windy).

Unlike many beaches in the area, it has no road running along it, but it’s lined with hotels, restaurants, and beach clubs (bagni).

In summer, expect rows and rows of sun beds (and be sure to book them in advance), but at the end of April, only some of the beach clubs were set up.

We had a mix of cooler, cloudy days when the beach was empty, and sunny weekends when it was much livelier. Some of the beachfront restaurants had live music on the weekend.

This is a great beach for a long walk. Look out for Il Torrione Saraceno (Saracen Tower), a defensive bastion from the 16th century, in the middle of the beach.

3) Stroll Along Il Budello

Via XX Settembre, known as Il Budello (the gut), is a narrow street in the old town parallel to the sea.

On this shopping street, you’ll find clothes, jewellery, foodie souvenirs, bakeries, and gelaterias. I’ve listed our favourite food stops below.

Look out for Baci di Alassio (Kisses from Alassio), the local chocolate hazelnut biscuits filled with chocolate ganache. The light, chewy cookies are similar to macarons. You’ll find them in lots of places—we enjoyed ours from Il Fornaio Alassio.

Il Budello is particularly lively during the pre-dinner passeggiata.

4) See the Muretto di Alassio

Opposite Caffè Roma (a classic cafe that was an artist hotspot in the 1950s), you can find a wall covered with colourful ceramic tiles with the signatures of famous people who have visited Alassio.

Ernest Hemingway was a regular at the cafe and was one of the first to sign in 1953. You can also find the signatures of Louis Armstrong, Eric Sykes, Michael Schumacher, Carlo Levi, and many famous Italians.

The wall also features artwork such as The Lovers, a bronze sculpture by Eros Pellini.

5) Walk the Seafront to Laigueglia

Laigueglia is a neighbouring fishing village south of Alassio. The towns are connected by a pleasant promenade next to the beach, and it’s an easy, flat walk that takes about 45 minutes (3.5km/2.2 miles) each way.

In Alassio, the promenade starts near Marina Restaurant.

Laigueglia is one of the Borghi Più Belli d’Italia (most beautiful towns in Italy) and was founded by the Romans.

It has some attractive backstreets for wandering and a series of piazzas that open up to the sea–ideal for a meal or drink. We had a drink at Maggie’s Bar & Bistrot next to the beach.

It also has a surprisingly spectacular 18th-century Baroque church, Chiesa di San Matteo.

Squeezed in next to the train tracks, it’s hard to get a sense of its size close up, so approach it from the lane opposite (where Ristorante La Sosta is) and then take the underpass under the rail tracks to visit the church.

You could take the train back to Alassio, but it isn’t very frequent (every two hours on our visit), so we walked back.

6) Enjoy the View at Santa Croce

Santa Croce is a tiny stone church with a magnificent location overlooking Alassio.

It’s around a 2km (1.2 mile) or 35-minute walk from Alassio Station.

We started by walking along the beach, and then just after the Diana Grand Hotel, we moved inland, crossed the train tracks, and began the 15-minute trek up the quiet but steep Strada Romana Santa Croce.

A slightly longer way up is the Solva Track via an old mule track and Solva village.

You could also drive or take the hourly bus 92 up to Santa Croce (ask for the timetable in the IAT information office).

The Romanesque church was originally built in the 11th century by Benedictine monks from nearby Gallinara Island.

After centuries of neglect, it was restored and reopened for worship in the 1970s. Now you are free to go inside to see its simple wooden-roofed interior.

The highlight is the terrace below, with benches to enjoy panoramic views of the marina, Gallinara Island, Albenga in one direction, and Alassio in the other. On a clear day, you can even see the mountains of Tuscany and Corsica.

It’s a peaceful spot to relax under the pine trees.

The Via Julia Augusta trail starts here, so you could continue on for the 1-hour walk to Albenga, as we did (see below).

7) Walk the Via Julia Augusta Trail to Albenga

Via Julia (or lulia) Augusta is an ancient Roman road dating to 13 BCE that connects Alassio to the neighbouring town of Albenga. It was part of a larger road from Rome to southern Gaul.

The hardest part is the climb up from Alassio seafront to Santa Croce (see above), where the trail starts through a stone arch to the left of the church.

After that, it’s a gently undulating route, partly on a quiet road and partly on a stony, dirt track. There are even some original cobbles towards the end.

You’ll pass a few ancient ruins, including family tombs, but for us, the highlights were the sea views, Mediterranean trees, and wildflowers.

Once in Albenga, walk down the hill and take the red bridge (Ponte Libero Emidio Viveri) across the river to enter the stunning historic centre.

We loved strolling the narrow lanes past charming piazzas and medieval towers. It’s a delightful, uncrowded place.

We had a good value lunch at Rattopenugo Bistrot on a pretty piazza with views of the Cathedral. We’d hoped to eat at Puppo, known for its farinata, but we couldn’t get in without a reservation.

The Cathedral has a Baptistry with Byzantine mosaics (there’s a fee to enter), but it was closed at lunchtime.

Even if you don’t want to walk the Via Julia, I recommend taking the train to explore Albenga.

Our one-way route from near Diana Grand Hotel in Alassio to the historic centre of Albenga was 6.7km (4.2 miles) with 143m (469 feet) of elevation gain. It took us 1.5 hours.

From Alassio Station, add another 15 minutes, and Albenga Station is 10 minutes from the historic centre. So it’s around 2 hours of walking from station to station.

The actual Via Julia Augusta section is 4.5km (2.8 miles) and took us just under an hour. There are no facilities on the way.

See the Via Julia Augusta Trail on AllTrails (we have the Plus membership to save maps offline).

8) Hike in the Hills Above Alassio

There are lots of options for hikes in the hills above Alassio, but you should expect steep climbs.

You can find ideas on the Visit Alassio website or pick up a trekking leaflet from the IAT.

We were looking for a moderate walk and chose a loop hike from Alassio to Torre di Vegliasco (Vegliasco Tower).

We downloaded the GPX data from the Visit Alassio page and imported it as a custom route on AllTrails; you can find it here—Alassio to Torre di Vegliasco on AllTrails.

We would have got lost without the map (saved offline), as there are some hidden turns.

The route starts near Villa della Pergola with an ascent up a very steep cobbled path that was once a mule track.

We climbed up for about an hour, past olive groves with sea views behind us. It was tough going but manageable with short breaks.

At the top, we walked on a quiet road past a mural of Italian presidents by street artist Robico.

We passed through the hamlet of Vegliasco (no amenities) and up to the 16th-century Torre di Vegliasco (we reached it after 1 hour 20 minutes). It’s a real Rapunzel-esque stone tower.

On the way back down, there were more sea views, a forest trail, and then it was back down the mule track.

This hike is not a must-do, but it was lovely to see a different side of Alassio and get some exercise. It was very peaceful up in the hills, and we didn’t see any other hikers until the very end, even on a Saturday.

The whole hike, starting near Alassio train station, was 8km (5 miles) with 430 metres (1411 feet) of elevation gain. It took us 2.5 hours (plus a break at the tower).

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Our Favourite Places to Eat in Alassio

Seafood is, of course, a major focus in Alassio, so as vegetarians, our options were more limited (although pesto pasta is always on the menu).

All these food spots are in central Alassio and easy to walk to. See the map below.

Casual Spots

• Pasticceria Gelateria Bread Butter And Jam – Simon’s favourite breakfast spot with good brioche (croissants) and coffee.
• Il Fornaio Alassio – This bakery on the Budello has a large selection of focaccia, plus farinata (tasty but cold) and delicious Baci di Alassio. It’s good for a quick snack or light lunch, but it closes from 1-4pm.
• Pizza Al Volo – Decent takeout pizza slices and farinata on the Budello. You can also order a whole pizza made to order, which is good value (we ate ours on a bench on the pier).
• Alberto Marchetti – Excellent gelato on the Budello. The mango was especially delicious.

Restaurants

• Mani Pizza – The pizzas at this seafront pizzeria have puffy crusts and unique toppings. They were pretty good, especially the Bordighera pizza with vegetables and a yellow cherry tomato sauce.
• Osteria Mezzaluna – This quirky restaurant has a cave-like interior with live music, or you can sit outside overlooking the beach. For foreigners, it has the advantage of opening at 6pm and offers the best vegetarian selection we found. We enjoyed a delicious goat’s cheese salad and a platter of grilled vegetables and cheeses, and it felt so good to eat some veggies.

Other Restaurants We Didn’t Try

Osteria I Matetti looked great for traditional Ligurian food (with a few veggie pastas), but it can be difficult to get in without a reservation, and we weren’t organised enough to make one.

I was tempted by Nove, the Michelin-starred restaurant at Villa della Pergola, which has a vegetarian tasting menu, but it costs €200 per person.

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Where to Stay in Alassio

Casa d’Artista

We stayed at Casa d’Artista, an elegant beachfront guesthouse with just three rooms in a historic apartment full of art, books, and antiques.

We loved the sea view from our room and listening to the sound of the waves.

We can honestly say we’ve never stayed in a hotel room with a chandelier, model ships, and guns on the wall before!

The rooms don’t have balconies, but there’s a cosy shared living room with tables on a balcony right above the sand. Breakfast is served here on request, but it wasn’t included in our room rate.

It’s a unique and beautiful place, but it has some quirks, and it’s probably not for you if you want all modern luxuries.

The location can’t be beat as it’s a 3-minute walk to the train station, less than a minute around the corner to the beach, and it’s right on the main shopping street.

This does mean you can hear music from the beach bars below. It wasn’t much of a problem in April, but don’t expect a quiet stay in summer.

Overall, we loved its location and charm. Do book well in advance as it fills up (and only two rooms have sea views—our room with the blue decor has the best view).

Check the latest availability for Casa d’Artista on Booking.

Other Alassio Hotels

• Villa della Pergola – I really wanted to stay at this gorgeous historic villa, but it was out of our budget. It’s up a hill, so it’s less convenient for the beach, but it has a pool.
• Grand Hotel Alassio – This beautiful hotel is right on the beach with its own beach club with very comfy-looking sun loungers (a huge advantage in summer). The rooms with seafront balconies looked especially enticing.

Check Booking for other hotels or Airbnb for holiday rentals.

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How to Get to Alassio

Arriving by Plane

Alassio’s nearest airport is Genova City Airport (GOA), which is a 1-hour 15-minute drive east or around 2 hours by public transport (airport bus plus train).

We flew into Pisa International Airport (PSA), which is much further east, as we stopped in Levanto (for Cinque Terre) and Camogli (our favourite Italian Riviera town) on the way.

Another option is Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) in France, which is 115 km (71 miles) west, a 1 hour 45 minute drive away.

Train Travel in Italy

I recommend visiting the Italian Riviera by train, as parking can be difficult to find and expensive.

Check schedules on Trenitalia (make sure to use the Italian place name, i.e., Genova, not Genoa).

We took the Intercity train from Genova to Alassio, which took 1 hour and 5 minutes.

We prefer the Intercity rather than the regional trains when travelling with luggage, as we can book a seat and there’s more luggage storage.

First class on Intercity trains is often not much more expensive and is worth it to us.

We use the Trenitalia app to book trains. You don’t need to book regional trains far in advance (just at least five minutes before they depart).

It’s cheaper to book the faster Freccia trains a few months in advance, but you’ll only use these if coming from elsewhere in Italy.

Train to France

After Alassio, we travelled onwards to France. We took the Intercity from Alassio to Ventimiglia on the border, which took 1 hour.

Then we switched to the French regional TER train (no advance booking needed) to continue to Nice Ville, which also took 1 hour.

The TER train stops at several other towns on the French Riviera, including Monaco, and continues on to Cannes before ending in Grasse.

We booked the French train with the SNCF Connect app. Or you could buy tickets at Ventimiglia station.

Read more about travelling from Italy to London by train.

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Alassio, Italy Map

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Is Alassio Worth Visiting?

Alassio is definitely worth visiting!

In summer, it’s ideal if you want to laze on a sun bed on the beach, swim in calm seas, and enjoy a lively restaurant scene in the evenings. Just expect crowds in July and August.

Spring was the perfect time for us to visit. It was much quieter (although lively on weekends), and the weather was warm enough for swimming but cool enough to hike the coastline and up into the hills.

Plus, the April wisteria at Villa della Pergola was stunning.

We loved rediscovering the seaside haven that the English once adored.

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More Italian Riviera Tips

We’ve visited the Italian Riviera many times. Read our other posts for more tips:

Riviera di Ponente

• Finale Ligure, Italy: The Quiet Side of the Italian Riviera (only 30 minutes from Alassio).

Riviera di Levante

• Levanto, Italy Travel Guide: A Quiet Base Near Cinque Terre
• Hiking Corniglia to Manarola in Cinque Terre
• 11 Stunning Things to Do in the Italian Riviera
• Rapallo Travel Guide: The Best Italian Riviera Base?

Camogli

• Camogli, Italy Travel Guide (Our favourite town).
• Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi Review (Our favourite hotel in the region).
• Hiking Camogli to San Fruttuoso: The Perfect Day on the Italian Riviera
• Camogli Fish Festival (Sagra del Pesce): What to Expect

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Levanto is a quieter, more affordable alternative to staying in the ever-popular Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera.

Levanto was the perfect base for our five days in the region. We could hike or take the train five minutes to Monterosso (the first of the Cinque Terre villages), but we had a quiet place to retreat to after braving the crowds.

Levanto is a pleasant seaside town in its own right. The pretty historic centre is lovely to wander, the beach is great for relaxing and swimming, and there are lots of hiking and biking opportunities.

While Levanto gets busy with Italians in July and August, in mid-April, it was peaceful, and we had enough sun to enjoy the beach.

In this Levanto travel guide, I share our picks for the best things to do in Levanto, where to eat and stay, and how to get there.

At the end, you’ll find a Levanto map with all our recommendations.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Akan Mashu National Park?
• Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area
• Things to Do at Lake Kussharo
• Lake Akan
• Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park
• Map of Akan Mashu National Park
• Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Alassio, Italy?
• The British Heritage in Alassio
• Best Things to Do in Alassio
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Alassio
• Where to Stay in Alassio
• How to Get to Alassio
• Alassio, Italy Map
• Is Alassio Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• Where is Levanto, Italy?
• Best Things to Do in Levanto
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Levanto
• Where to Stay in Levanto
• How to Get to Levanto
• Levanto vs La Spezia as a Base for Cinque Terre
• Levanto, Italy Map
• Is Levanto Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips

Where is Levanto, Italy?

Levanto is located on the coast of Liguria, a region in northwest Italy between Tuscany and France.

The coastline is known as the Italian Riviera and includes the picturesque Cinque Terre villages, which are just south of Levanto.

The nearest major city (and international airport) is Genoa (Genova in Italian), which is 90 kilometres (56 miles) west along the coast. Pisa Airport (109km east) has more flight options, though.

I include details on how to get to Levanto below.

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Best Things to Do in Levanto

1) Stroll the Historic Centre

Levanto has a small but pretty historic centre that’s a much quieter place for a stroll than the nearby Cinque Terre towns.

I recommend starting in Piazza Cavour, a square lined with orange trees and the site of a former 17th-century convent.

The tourist information office is here, so you can pick up a map of the town with a walking route, although it’s quite hard to follow in the winding lanes.

Here is a rough walking route:

• Chiesa di San Rocco – This simple church is behind the square and was once used by the convent. I love the pretty flower shop that spills onto this quiet street.
• Via Garibaldi – A street of colourful houses, many painted with trompe-l’œil decorative details. At the corner with Via Vinzoni, look out for the 16th-century street art, Le Grottesche, a series of caricatures of customers at an inn.
• Via Guani – A quiet backstreet that connects Via Garibaldi with the next two churches.
• Chiesa di Santa Maria della Costa and Oratorio di San Giacomo – From Via Guani, walk the narrow street that leads up a hill to these two tiny churches. We couldn’t go inside, but it’s very peaceful here. Continue down the cobbled street of the Salita San Giacomo.

• Loggia Medievale – One of Levanto’s major historic landmarks, this 13th-century building features stone arches and was used as a meeting place, market hall, courthouse, and even a quarantine station during the plague. You can’t go inside, but you can enjoy the view from the pretty square.
• Medieval Walls and Clock Tower – Close to the Loggia, head down Strada de Prealba to find these other medieval constructions, built as defences by the Republic of Genoa, which was concerned about attacks from rival Pisa.
• Chiesa San Andrea – This black-and-white-striped church is one of Levanto’s most important and was built in the Ligurian Gothic style beginning in 1222. You can go inside.

• Levanto Castle – From the piazza outside Chiesa San Andrea, you can see Levanto’s pocket-sized Castello San Giorgio above and can follow a narrow path up. It was built in 1165, and you can’t go inside. You also pass the castle on the walk to Monterosso (from the seafront side).
• Via Dante Alighieri – After your walking tour, I recommend finishing on Levanto’s main shopping street, where you could perhaps pick up some focaccia at one of the bakeries to take to the nearby beach.

2) Relax on Levanto Beach

Levanto Beach is one of the largest beaches in the area, with a mix of small pebbles and grey sand (I found water shoes helpful for swimming).

It’s very close to the centre of town, so you can easily pick up a slice of focaccia or gelato on your way to the beach.

There are several bars right on the beach. In summer, most of the sand will be covered with sunbeds, but in mid-April, they weren’t laid out, but you could ask at the bars (Bar Piper or Bar Nadia) to rent a bed.

At Bar Piper, they were charging a reasonable €10 per bed, but we got them half price in the afternoon.

In April, the sea was a refreshing 18ºC—chilly for many (including Simon), but I enjoyed many swims looking back at the town and the hills beyond.

I liked the view at the south end of the beach best with the castle, San Andrea church, and colourful villas.

3) Bike Through Old Rail Tunnels to Framura

The Pista Ciclopedonale Maremonti is a bike path through old rail tunnels that connects Levanto with the small towns of Bonassola and Framura.

The 10km (6.2-mile) return trail took us about an hour in total, though with stops in the towns, we were out for about 2.5 hours.

The bike trail is one of the best things to do in Levanto, especially if you want an easy outdoor excursion with some protection from rain or sun.

See the Levanto to Framura route on AllTrails (ignore the elevation gain and hard rating).

It’s an easy, flat path that’s away from roads most of the time. There are gaps in the tunnels where you enjoy views out to sea.

While you could walk it, I wouldn’t recommend that past Bonassola, as there are long sections of tunnel that would be monotonous on foot.

Halfway along the path is Bonassola, a cute small town that’s worth a quick wander, or in summer, a swim from the grey sandy beach. We had a lovely pizza lunch at the outdoor terrace at Pinseria Curnea.

Framura is smaller. At the end of the bike path, you can lock up your bike and take the stairs or lift down to a small harbour full of colourful fishing boats.

In summer, there’s a bar here, but it was closed in April. There are basic public toilets at the harbour.

L’Agave restaurant at the end of the bike path (above the harbour) looked like a beautiful place to eat, but it’s closed on Wednesdays when we were there.

In theory, you could take the train back from Framura, but due to construction, it was unclear how to cross the train tracks to reach the station from the bike path. It was easy enough to just cycle back.

Where to Rent Bikes in Levanto

There are a few bike shops in Levanto. We rented from Cicli Lapucci for €8 each for 4 hours, plus €3 for a helmet. A full day rental is €12.

Cicli Raso is another option.

Both places close for lunch around 12.30pm – 3pm. We were able to drop off when they were closed, though.

The bike path starts near Bagni Vallesanta at the north end of Levanto Beach, just a few minutes’ cycle from Cicli Lapucci.

4) Watch the Sunset

Head to Levanto Beach at sunset for a drink or stroll. It’s a very pleasant, family-friendly atmosphere.

For a DIY experience, bring your own drinks (the Doro supermarket is close by) and sit on one of the benches along the promenade near Casinò (a seafront restaurant).

Or for the best view, head out on the rocks on the Moletto di Levanto (a small pier).

Bar Piper, right on the beach, has the best sunset view if you want to eat or drink somewhere.

5) Hike from Levanto to Monterosso

We love hiking along the Cinque Terre coast, and the trail from Levanto to Monterosso al Mare is a quieter and free alternative to the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) on the other side of Monterosso (which charges a fee).

The 8km (5-mile) route took us 2 hours 50 minutes of walking (plus about 30 minutes of breaks) with an elevation gain of 407 metres.

See the Levanto to Monterosso hike on AllTrails (we have the Plus membership to save maps offline).

The trail starts from the south end of Levanto Beach. From Casinò, keep walking on the promenade south until you reach the large blue villa (Villa Celeste, available on Airbnb!)

Look for the red-and-white paint stripes on the stone arches beneath the villa, which mark the start of the hiking trail.

You start by walking up the stairs to the castle and then go right. There are plenty of signs.

10 minutes into the trail, you reach a beautiful view of Levanto. Even if you don’t want to walk the whole trail to Monterosso, it’s worth walking up here.

The trail mixes ascents and more level sections, so we didn’t find the climb as bad as expected. There’s a mix of forest and coastal path, past some remote houses and olive groves.

It’s rocky in parts, so good shoes are necessary. And bring plenty of water and snacks, as there are no facilities along the way (except the Podere Lovara farm museum, which has an entrance fee and limited hours).

We didn’t see any other hikers (starting at 8.15am) until nearly two hours in, when we reached the highest point with views down to all five Cinque Terre villages. In the morning, we were facing into the sun, so it wasn’t very clear, but still a beautiful sight.

From here it was an easy hour down to Monterosso al Mare, the first of the Cinque Terre villages.

After lunch and a wander around the busy town (where the beach looked very appealing—consider bringing swimming gear), we hopped on the train back to Levanto.

6) Visit the Cinque Terre

Levanto is a great base for exploring the Cinque Terre, a series of five picturesque seaside villages that get extremely crowded with tour groups.

Levanto is only 5-8 minutes on the train to the first village, Monterosso (or you could hike there), and it’s included in the park rail pass.

If you want to hike other trails in the Cinque Terre and visit several towns, it’s worth considering the Cinque Terre Treno Card, which includes unlimited train rides and the paid trails.

You can buy the pass at train stations, but the queues can be long. You can also buy it online at the Parco Nazionale 5 Terre website. If your pass includes the short Via dell’Amore walk (one way from Riomaggiore to Manarola), you can also choose a time slot for it.

You don’t need to do the paid trails to see some amazing views in the area. We love the free hike from Corniglia to Manarola via Volastra, which passes through vineyards (we even stopped at one for a glass of local white!).

It’s even more beautiful than the Levanto to Monterosso trail, but it has a steeper, more challenging ascent and is much busier.

You could also explore the villages by hopping on the train (or taking the less frequent and crowded ferry) between them. I recommend going early or in the evening to avoid the intense crowds.

See my Italian Riviera travel guide for more Cinque Terre tips.

7) Take Day Trips by Train

Levanto is fairly well-placed for day trips to other towns in the Italian Riviera. Although I do think it’s worth also staying somewhere further west.

On this trip, we combined Levanto (for Cinque Terre exploration) with our favourite Ligurian town, Camogli, which is closer to Portofino and San Fruttuoso. See my Camogli travel guide for more details.

Here are the towns I most recommend visiting from Levanto with train times (on the fastest regional trains):

• Sestri Levante (14 minutes+) – The sandy beach at Baia del Silenzio is rare in this area and my favourite.
• Chiavari (20-40 minutes) – A hidden gem with a beautiful historic centre. We love the wood-fired farinata (chickpea pancake) at Luchin.
• Rapallo (30 minutes+) – A bigger, less touristy town with a pleasant promenade and a cable car up into the mountains. See my Rapallo travel guide.
• Santa Margherita Ligure (35 minutes+) – A chic resort town with beautiful architecture. It’s the gateway to Portofino by bus or ferry.

You could also take the ferry to Portovenere, but it takes 1 hour 50 minutes (via all the Cinque Terre) and doesn’t come back until 4 or 5pm, so check timetables carefully.

See my guide to the best things to do in the Italian Riviera for more ideas.

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Our Favourite Places to Eat in Levanto

See the Google Map below for the locations of our favourite places to eat—they are all in the compact centre of Levanto.

Casual Spots

• Focacceria Domè – On the main street of the old town, this bakery has lots of different flavours of focaccia and pizza slices. Ideal for a quick meal or beach snack.
• Aggio & Persa – This tiny place has just a few tables and is quick, casual, and affordable. You choose from a selection of pre-cooked meals and are charged by weight, so you can try a few different things. As vegetarians, we enjoyed the pesto lasagna, melanzana alla parmigiana (eggplant parmesan), and minestrone soup.

Sweet Treats

• Italiano – This local cafe has good coffee and croissants (called brioche here), and the gelato was our favourite.
• Gelateria Basilico e Limone – Another great spot for gelato, and it’s close to the beach.

Restaurants

• La Picea Pizzeria – This award-winning pizzeria didn’t quite live up to our expectations (pizza in Liguria is generally not as good as south Italy), but the pizza was pretty good. Our favourite was the starter of farinata (chickpea pancake) with amazing pesto.

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Where to Stay in Levanto

The Sea Airbnb

We stayed in a one-bedroom Airbnb apartment called The Sea, which was ideal for us.

The owners are very nice and even picked us up from the station (this is not a self-check-in place), which is a 10-minute walk away.

It was clean and modern, with everything we needed, including a washing machine, air conditioning, an oven, a dishwasher, beach towels and umbrella.

It’s located on the fourth floor, but there’s an elevator (not always the case).

The balcony has a view of the mountains and a bit of the sea, which is very close. The beach is just a few minutes’ walk away.

It can accommodate four guests as there’s a sofa bed in the living room.

It’s popular, so book early—The Sea on Airbnb.

Or there are lots of other holiday apartments to rent in Levanto. Search on Airbnb or Booking.

Hotels in Levanto

If you’d rather stay in a hotel or B&B, you can find some options on Booking.

I was tempted by the stylish Park Hotel Argento, which has a beautiful setting and pool, but it’s a little out of town (a free shuttle bus is provided).

Hotel Baia di Levanto is a more affordable option right in the centre, just minutes from the beach.

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How to Get to Levanto

I recommend visiting Levanto by train as parking can be difficult to find and expensive.

Arriving by Plane

We flew into Pisa International Airport (PSA) because it offers more flight options than the slightly closer Genova City Airport (GOA).

From there, it took us about three hours to get to Levanto, including connections. We took the Pisamover airport train for the short hop to Pisa Centrale station, then the InterCity train to La Spezia, where we changed to the regional train to Levanto.

Train Travel

Getting around the Italian Riviera by train is easy. Check schedules on Trenitalia (make sure to use the Italian place name, i.e., Genova, not Genoa).

We used the Trenitalia app to book the regional trains we hopped on along the coast, which saved us from queuing at the machines or the counter. Plus, we didn’t have to validate our tickets (you have to use machines on the platform to stamp paper tickets).

There’s no need to book regional trains in advance (just book more than five minutes before the train departs), but when travelling further afield on the faster Freccia trains, it’s cheaper to book a few months ahead.

When we have luggage, we prefer to book Intercity trains (or Freccia trains) rather than regional trains, if possible. You can then book a seat in advance, and there’s more luggage storage.

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Levanto vs La Spezia as a Base for Cinque Terre

As the Cinque Terre towns are so crowded, many visitors consider staying in one of the two towns on either side of the five villages. We’ve used both as a base for exploring the area, and here are my thoughts.

La Spezia:

• Much larger
• Better rail connections
• Closer to Portovenere (by bus or ferry)
• Museums to visit

Levanto:

• Smaller and more charming
• Lovely beach
• Cycle path to Framura
• Hiking trail to Monterosso

Both are similar distances by train from the Cinque Terre towns. Levanto is 5 minutes from Monterosso, and La Spezia is 6 minutes from Riomaggiore. We found both just as easy to access the towns.

La Spezia worked well for us when we wanted to visit Portovenere, and we loved our Airbnb, La Spezia Lounge, which is close to the station, and one of the most stylish and comfortable apartments we’ve stayed in.

We thought the city was fine, and we’d stay there again, but we didn’t love it.

Overall, we preferred Levanto because we like small towns, enjoyed the hikes and bike rides, and loved relaxing on the beach each afternoon after a morning of activity.

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Levanto, Italy Map

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Is Levanto Worth Visiting?

Levanto is absolutely worth visiting. It’s our new favourite base for Cinque Terre, but it also has its own charm, pretty historic centre, and a lovely beach.

I love the easy access to hikes and bike rides, and the train station makes it easy to explore further afield.

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More Italian Riviera Tips

We’ve visited the Italian Riviera many times. Read our other posts for more tips:

• Hiking Corniglia to Manarola in Cinque Terre
• 11 Stunning Things to Do in the Italian Riviera
• Rapallo Travel Guide: The Best Italian Riviera Base
• Finale Ligure, Italy: The Quiet Side of the Italian Riviera
• Alassio, Italy Travel Guide: An Italian Riviera Gem

Camogli

• Camogli, Italy Travel Guide
• Hiking Camogli to San Fruttuoso: The Perfect Day on the Italian Riviera
• Camogli Fish Festival (Sagra del Pesce): What to Expect
• Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi Review (Our favourite hotel in the region).

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The Universal Studios Japan Express Pass allows you to skip lines for certain rides at Universal Studios Japan (USJ) in Osaka.

This is the busiest theme park we’ve ever visited, with queues for almost every ride at 1-3 hours throughout the day.

The only way to guarantee you’ll get on all the top rides is to pay extra for the Express Pass. I wouldn’t visit USJ without one, as standing in line all day is not my idea of fun.

Express Passes are confusing because there are many options that include different rides.

They also sell out, but it’s not always clear when they go on sale—frustrating for planners like me!

In this post, I explain everything you need to know about the Universal Studios Japan Express Pass to make your visit more fun and less stressful.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Akan Mashu National Park?
• Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area
• Things to Do at Lake Kussharo
• Lake Akan
• Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park
• Map of Akan Mashu National Park
• Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Alassio, Italy?
• The British Heritage in Alassio
• Best Things to Do in Alassio
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Alassio
• Where to Stay in Alassio
• How to Get to Alassio
• Alassio, Italy Map
• Is Alassio Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• Where is Levanto, Italy?
• Best Things to Do in Levanto
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Levanto
• Where to Stay in Levanto
• How to Get to Levanto
• Levanto vs La Spezia as a Base for Cinque Terre
• Levanto, Italy Map
• Is Levanto Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• How Does Universal Express Pass Work?
• Do You Really Need an Express Pass at Universal Japan?
• How Much Time Does an Express Pass Save?
• Which Rides are Best with a USJ Express Pass?
• Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Price
• How to Buy a Universal Studios Japan Express Pass
• Types of USJ Express Pass
• Best Express Pass Times to Choose
• Is Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Worth It?
• Other Japan Tips

How Does Universal Express Pass Work?

A USJ Express Pass gives you fast-track access to certain rides. There are lots of passes available (see below), so you can choose one that includes the rides most important to you.

For the most popular attractions, you’ll be assigned a specific time to ride. A few rides can be ridden at any time.

At your allocated ride time, you can use a separate Express queue—show your pass to the crew to enter. You will use a different line with only a minimal wait.

We usually wait 5-15 minutes in the Express line. The exception is Mario Kart, which usually takes us 25 minutes, but the queue through Bowser’s Castle is so cool that we don’t mind.

Your time slot is a 30-minute window, such as 12:30-13:00. You can usually arrive 10 minutes early or a little late (but try to be on time, as flexibility is not guaranteed).

Some Express Passes also include a Timed Area Entry to Super Nintendo World, which is a major perk (more on that below).

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Do You Really Need an Express Pass at Universal Japan?

If you are unsure whether an Express Pass is really necessary, these were the average wait times at Universal Japan in 2025, taken from Queue Times.

• Mine Cart Madness – 140 minutes
• Mario Kart: Koopa’s Challenge – 97 minutes
• Flight of the Hippogriff – 73 minutes
• Hollywood Dream Backdrop – 70 minutes
• Yoshi’s Adventure – 65 minutes
• Hollywood Dream – 60 minutes
• Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey – 59 minutes
• The Flying Dinosaur – 52 minutes
• Despicable Me Minion Mayhem – 47 minutes
• Jurassic Park – 38 minutes
• JAWS – 37 minutes

These are average times, so during busy times of the year, they can be much higher. The average maximum queue time for Mine Cart Madness in 2025 was 201 minutes!

Many of these rides do have single-rider lines, but they generally don’t save much (with the exception of JAWS). For example, Simon waited 60 minutes in the single-rider line for The Flying Dinosaur, while the regular line was 70 minutes.

You can also probably get on one or two rides at the beginning of the day with shorter waits, but you’ll need to arrive at least an hour before park opening and join the long lines to enter.

With an Express Pass, we usually stroll into the park in late morning and stay until park closing (you can’t leave and reenter, unfortunately).

If the park is open late, the last hour of the day is another chance to find some lower waits, but not for the top attractions.

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How Much Time Does an Express Pass Save?

Express Pass 7

On one trip, a 7-ride Express Pass saved us an incredible 565 minutes (over 9 hours) of waiting in lines!

Express Pass 4

On our latest trip, we went for an Express Pass 4. Even with just four rides included (Mine Cart, Mario Kart, Flying Dinosaur, and Jurassic Park), it saved us 286 minutes (4 hours 46 minutes) of queuing.

Most importantly for us, we got to ride attractions like Mine Cart Madness that we would never have waited 140 minutes for.

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Which Rides are Best with a USJ Express Pass?

The two rides with the longest lines are Mine Cart Madness and Mario Kart: Koopa’s Challenge.

Both these rides are inside Super Nintendo World, so if that area is important to you, definitely choose a pass that includes them.

The other must-do ride for us is The Flying Dinosaur (an intense rollercoaster), so we try to include that if we can.

Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey is also a great option.

The Hollywood Dream rollercoasters are nice to have, but they are rarely included in the best passes these days.

It really comes down to your priorities.

Express Pass is less necessary for Despicable Me, JAWS, and Jurassic Park, as wait times usually come down in the evenings. Most Express Passes usually include one of these, though.

Super Nintendo World Entry with an Express Pass

Another major bonus of the Express Pass is that many of them include Timed Area Entry to Super Nintendo World.

This is the best way to guarantee entry to the area. Otherwise, you’ll need to arrive at the park very early—you can usually get in first thing without Timed Area Entry.

Or, for the rest of the day, entry to the area is run by lottery. You can select a time slot for free in the app (once you’ve entered the park), but you might not win.

If you have an Express Pass, you can still enter the lottery for Super Nintendo World, which is useful if you want to visit again later in the day (Simon got lucky with an evening spot).

The area is amazing, but it’s very loud and overstimulating, so being able to take a break is a nice bonus of the Express Pass.

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Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Price

Unfortunately, Universal Express Passes are expensive—they cost considerably more than the park ticket, which is reasonable in Japan at around 8,900 yen ($56).

You have to pay for a Studio Pass (park ticket) plus an Express Pass.

Pass prices vary widely depending on the type of pass and when you are visiting—busier times cost more. Check on Klook for prices for the next two months.

As an example, my current top recommended pass for first-timers, Universal Express Pass 7 – Minecart & Selection, costs 24,000 yen ($151) in May (a moderately busy time to visit).

The pass we used last time, Universal Express Pass 4 – Minecart & JAWS, costs from 20,000 yen ($125) in May or 17,000 yen ($107) in June.

On some days, it’s actually the same price as the Express Pass 7, so it’s worth checking the different options.

If you don’t care about Super Nintendo World, the cheapest pass currently is Universal Express Pass 4 – Flying Dinosaur & Jurassic Park, which costs from 12,000 yen ($75).

Weekdays are cheaper than weekends and holidays.

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How to Buy a Universal Studios Japan Express Pass

You used to be able to buy Express Passes in the park, but it’s very unlikely there will be any available these days.

I highly recommend buying yours online around two months in advance.

Note that passes or tickets can not be cancelled.

Klook

The easiest way to buy USJ Express Passes for international visitors is on Klook. They are an official authorised reseller and have a user-friendly website and app.

You can choose the currency and pay in your local currency if you want (and they don’t rip you off with exchange rates). International cards work without issue, or you can use Apple Pay or Google Pay.

To buy a pass, go to the Universal Studios Japan Express Pass page on Klook.

Choose a date from the calendar, scroll through the various passes, and select one. Click Package Details to see which rides are included.

Or, if you aren’t sure of your dates, select a pass and check the calendar to see prices for different dates.

Once you have clicked Book Now, you are taken to a page where you can “Select Session”, which means choose ride times (more on that below). You’ll need to create a Klook account to get to this page.

On this page, you can also choose to add on a Studio Pass (entrance ticket) to buy everything in one transaction. Or wait until closer to the time to buy your ticket separately (they don’t sell out as quickly as Express Passes).

Once you’ve paid, you’ll receive an email with a PDF pass that includes a QR code and your ride times. This is what you need to show to enter each ride. We print it out to make it easier, but you could show it on your phone.

USJ Official Website

Booking Express Passes on the official Universal Studios Japan website is more complicated.

The main USJ site is in Japanese. You can use a translation service to read it (I use Google Translate in the Chrome desktop browser), but it does feel harder than Klook.

Even if you make it through the booking process, many people have trouble using international cards (apparently, Amex works best).

You’ll need to create a Club Universal account to use the site, and enter your name in Japanese characters. Use your Japanese hotel as the address.

On this site, you have to add a Studio Pass to your cart before you can add on an Express Pass.

The main advantage of the Japanese site is that they often have more availability than Klook, and passes may be released a little earlier.

However, when I tried using it, I had trouble getting the website to work, and I actually found more availability on Klook (at the same prices), so I just booked with them and saved myself the hassle.

There’s also an English version of the USJ website, but it’s run by an authorised ticket reseller and has more limited availability than the Japanese site.

If you are struggling to find availability for your dates, it’s worth checking all three sites, but otherwise, Klook is the easiest option.

When Do USJ Express Passes Go on Sale?

I wish this question had a simple answer!

The short answer is that USJ Express Passes usually go on sale about two months in advance.

Express Passes do sell out, and you’ll have the most ride-time options if you book on the day they are released.

As of 10 April, you can buy passes until 11 June. So currently, you can buy passes 62 days in advance.

That can and will change, though.

When I was booking for November, the release was delayed by a few days. And then Express Pass 4 passes were available a few days before 7 Passes. This may have been because the pass types were changing.

There seems to be no way of knowing what’s going on for sure, so the best thing is to keep checking. I would start looking around 65 days before your visit and see when the previous days are being released.

What time of day are Express Passes released?

I haven’t found a consistent answer about what time passes are released.

Often, they appear on the USJ site at midnight Japan time. Resellers like Klook might get them a few hours later.

If you have any more information on the release schedule, leave a comment below!

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Types of USJ Express Pass

Choosing a USJ Express Pass is confusing, as there are many passes that include different rides.

To make matters worse, the available passes change fairly regularly.

Here are the main types of passes and the ones I currently recommend. Although the best Universal Studios Express Pass really depends on which rides are a priority for you.

Express Pass 7

The Express Pass 7 includes seven rides. This is what I recommend for first-time visitors if you can afford it. You’ll be able to ride many of the best USJ rides without queuing.

All of these passes include Area Timed Entry to Super Nintendo World.

Currently, my top pick is the Universal Express Pass 7 – Minecart & Selection.

It includes:

1. Mario Kart: Koopa’s Challenge
2. Yoshi’s Adventure
3. Mine Cart Madness
4. Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey
5. Flight of the Hippogriff
6. The Flying Dinosaur OR Despicable Me Minion Mayhem (I’d choose Flying Dinosaur)
7. JAWS OR Jurassic Park – The Ride (I’d choose Jurassic Park)

You get specific times for the three Nintendo rides plus Flight of the Hippogriff. The others can be ridden at any time.

The major rides missing are Hollywood Dream and Backdrop.

This is similar to the pass we had that saved us over 9 hours of queuing!

Buy the Express Pass 7 on Klook here.

Express Pass 4

Express Pass 4 includes four rides, but it’s not always significantly cheaper than the 7 pass, especially if you want to include Minecart Madness.

My current top pick is Universal Express Pass 4 – Minecart & JAWS.

This is the pass we used last November that saved us nearly 5 hours of queuing.

It includes:

1. Mine Cart Madness
2. Mario Kart: Koopa’s Challenge
3. Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey OR The Flying Dinosaur (we chose Dinosaur)
4. JAWS OR Jurassic Park – The Ride (we chose Jurassic Park)

Timed Entry to Super Nintendo World is included, and you choose a time for the two rides in that area. The other two can be ridden at any time.

Buy the Express Pass 4 on Klook here.

Premium Pass

You could also purchase a Premium Pass, which includes 13 rides, each valid for one use at any time.

When I looked for April, it was 50,400 yen ($317) vs 29,000 yen ($182) for the Express Pass 7.

I don’t think it’s worth it, unless money is no object, but it would mean you could get on absolutely everything.

VIP Tour

An alternative to buying an Express Pass is taking a group VIP Tour.

You can buy these in the Studio Pass section on Klook, where you buy tickets.

When I looked for April, there were only a few slots available, and they cost 38,000 yen ($239) in addition to a park ticket. More expensive than an Express Pass 7 but not ridiculously so.

The 3-hour tour includes a special entrance to the park (no waiting in the usual long line), priority access to Super Nintendo World and visiting these rides with a guide:

1. Mine Cart Madness
2. Mario Kart: Koopa’s Challenge
3. Yoshi’s Adventure
4. JAWS

You don’t even have to wait in the Express line for these rides—you skip straight to the front.

You are also given Express Passes for four additional attractions of your choice to use after your tour ends.

Private VIP Tours are also available, but these are very expensive.

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Best Express Pass Times to Choose

The biggest consideration will be your Super Nintendo World Area Entry time (which will be the same time as your first ride in the area). Earlier times book up fastest.

Last time we chose 12.30pm, so we didn’t have to arrive at the park too early, but we still had plenty of time to explore Nintendo World (we stayed for over 3 hours).

We’ve had an evening entry before (7.40pm when the park closed at 10pm), which was also pretty cool (the world looks great in the dark), but we didn’t have time to do all the games or go to the restaurant.

Bear in mind that when the park closes late (9pm or 10pm), the last hour is quietest, so we like to stay for that. But you can’t take a break and reenter (I really hate this policy as I find USJ overstimulating).

We don’t choose a morning ride time, so that we have the stamina to stay until park closing.

Also, the advantage of paying for a pass is not having to join the morning rush at opening.

Ultimately, don’t stress too much about times, as you’ll always find a way to make it work.

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Is Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Worth It?

The Universal Studios Japan Express Pass is expensive, but I absolutely think it’s worth it to avoid frustration and make your park day more enjoyable.

If Super Nintendo World is a priority, the pass is even more worthwhile, as it guarantees entry to this fun area.

I wouldn’t visit USJ without an Express Pass as I don’t want to spend my day standing in lines.

If you can afford it, I highly recommend purchasing an Express Pass.

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Other Japan Tips

Explore our many articles about Japan for more tips for your visit.

Japan Theme Parks

• 13 Best Universal Studios Japan Rides (and Top Tips)
• 13 Best Tokyo Disneyland Rides for Adults
• 14 Best Tokyo DisneySea Rides for Adults
• Ghibli Park Review: Ultimate Guide to Tickets and Attractions

Japan Travel

• Planning a Trip to Japan: Dos and Don’ts
• 17 Unmissable Places to Visit in Japan
• Two Weeks in Japan: A Detailed Itinerary
• 32 Unforgettable Things to Do in Kyoto

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La Gomera is one of the smallest and quietest Canary Islands in Spain. The lack of coastal road or international airport on this mountainous island has kept mass tourism away.

It’s a fantastic, diverse hiking destination with marked trails, stunning views, and mild weather year-round—perfect for some winter sun.

A highlight is the Parque Nacional de Garajonay, a UNESCO World Heritage site in the centre of the island, featuring an ancient, lush laurel forest.

We spent a week on the island in March. Hiking in La Gomera often features steep trails, but we focused on finding the best easy walks and have included our favourites below.

I’ve also shared where we stayed, how to get there, and a map of everywhere we visited.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Akan Mashu National Park?
• Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area
• Things to Do at Lake Kussharo
• Lake Akan
• Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park
• Map of Akan Mashu National Park
• Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Alassio, Italy?
• The British Heritage in Alassio
• Best Things to Do in Alassio
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Alassio
• Where to Stay in Alassio
• How to Get to Alassio
• Alassio, Italy Map
• Is Alassio Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• Where is Levanto, Italy?
• Best Things to Do in Levanto
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Levanto
• Where to Stay in Levanto
• How to Get to Levanto
• Levanto vs La Spezia as a Base for Cinque Terre
• Levanto, Italy Map
• Is Levanto Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• How Does Universal Express Pass Work?
• Do You Really Need an Express Pass at Universal Japan?
• How Much Time Does an Express Pass Save?
• Which Rides are Best with a USJ Express Pass?
• Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Price
• How to Buy a Universal Studios Japan Express Pass
• Types of USJ Express Pass
• Best Express Pass Times to Choose
• Is Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Worth It?
• Other Japan Tips
• What to Expect Hiking La Gomera
• Hiking in La Gomera Resources
• Easy Walks in La Gomera
• Other Hiking Areas in La Gomera
• What to Eat in La Gomera
• Where to Stay in La Gomera
• Getting to La Gomera
• La Gomera Map
• Is La Gomera Worth Visiting?
• More Hiking Posts

What to Expect Hiking La Gomera

Terrain

La Gomera is a mountainous island with no coastal road. The towns are located in valleys, and to get anywhere, you have to drive up steep, winding roads and then back down again.

It’s a small island and nowhere is more than 90 minutes away, but the driving does feel arduous, especially if you get carsick like me. The views are often spectacular, though!

There are buses, and you could do some one-way hikes that way. We rented a car, which gave us a lot more flexibility. See below for more transport details.

Due to its terrain, walks in La Gomera usually have steep ascents and descents, but the ones we did had more moderate elevation gain.

Weather

La Gomera has mild winters, so it’s a popular time for Germans and Brits to visit.

In mid-March, we had temperatures of 18-20ºC on the coast during the day, but it was often windy so it could feel cooler.

In the mountains in the centre of the island, it was much colder (6-12ºC) and almost always cloudy. When the sun did come out, it was perfect hiking weather.

Facilities

We didn’t come across any public toilets on La Gomera, so bear that in mind when heading out. Buying an inexpensive espresso is a good way to use cafe facilities before you start a walk.

There were also toilets at the visitor centre, Centro de Visitantes Juego de Bolas, near Agulo. But we didn’t hike near there—just drove through.

We found service in restaurants was often very slow, so be prepared for that if you are starving after a walk. Take snacks and water on your hikes.

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Hiking in La Gomera Resources

We used the book, La Gomera Rother Walking Guide, which includes 73 walks on the island with detailed instructions.

You can also download the GPX files for each walk, which we imported into AllTrails (or Rother has an app).

Most of the hikes are pretty challenging, so the book is most worthwhile for serious hikers. It does have some easy walks, though.

AllTrails is our go-to app for finding hiking trails all over the world, and we used it a lot in La Gomera. We have a Plus account, which allows us to download maps for offline use.

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Easy Walks in La Gomera

1) Las Creces in Parque Nacional de Garajonay

Walking in the Parque Nacional de Garajonay is a must on La Gomera, and it’s the best place for easy walks.

It’s located at the higher elevations of the centre and covers 10% of the island in rare laurel forest.

This misty, mossy forest is an atmospheric place for a walk, with many trails crisscrossing the park.

It’s much colder in the park than on the coast—for us it was 6-7ºC at the higher parts vs 19ºC on the coast.

It was also very cloudy there our entire week, so we never bothered with the walk to Alto de Garajonay, the island’s highest peak at 1487m, as we wouldn’t have been able to see a thing.

Instead, we did an easy walk through the forest in Las Creces picnic area (a 30-minute drive from Valle Gran Rey, where we were staying).

On AllTrails it’s called Las Creces – Ruta 5 – GR131. The 4.4km walk took us about an hour from the parking (by the road nearest to La Creces—see AllTrails, as it’s not marked on Google Maps).

It was mostly flat with only a few gentle hills. The trail was muddy and uneven, though, so good shoes are a must.

We then added on a bit by walking across the road and through more forest to Mirador Risquillos de Corgo, with its view down to Vallehermoso. There are plenty of options for longer walks.

After our walk, we had a traditional lunch in Las Hayas (see below). You could also walk there from Las Creces for a longer route.

2) Valle Gran Rey Coastal Walk

Walking along the coast in Valle Gran Rey is more of a stroll than a hike as it’s paved. It’s a good option if you just want to stretch your legs and explore the different beaches.

We stayed in Valle Gran Rey for most of our trip. It’s the closest thing to a beach resort on the island, with sunnier and much warmer weather than the centre of the island.

It’s in the southwest, a 1 hour and 20 minute drive from the capital, San Sebastian de La Gomera, via the mountainous interior.

You approach the town by driving down a winding road through a dramatic barranco (river gorge) towards the sea, past terraces lush with green palms and villages of colourful houses.

It’s one of the most beautiful parts of the island. There are a few viewpoints where you can stop to enjoy the view, such as Mirador de la Curva del Queso.

The town is more touristy than the others we visited, but tourism is very lowkey here, and it has a relaxed feel.

The beaches are some of the best on the island (although La Gomera is not really a beach destination), especially if you want to swim.

I loved swimming in the sea after a morning walk. The sea temperature was 20ºC in March—chilly for Simon, fine for me.

Walking the coast road is a good way to see all of Valle Gran Rey’s beaches. From one end to another takes about 40 minutes each way.

You can start in the middle, as we did, but here are the beaches you’ll pass from north to south:

• Playa del Ingles – The most dramatic, wild beach with black sand and pebbles under cliffs. It’s too rough to swim, but it’s fun to watch the waves and the many red crabs sunning on the rocks. It was a 20-minute walk from our hotel, Hotel Gran Rey.
• Playa de la Calera/ Playa de Valle Gran Rey – The main beach is the longest. It’s more pebbly than sandy in the winter, but there’s a patch of sand near the beach bars (we enjoyed a coffee with a view at La Machanga). Swimming is generally safe here, but check the flags.
• La Puntilla – This is the other end of the main beach. It’s rockier, and the swimming is slightly rougher, but I swam here as it was opposite our hotel. There are a few good restaurants nearby. We liked Il Grillo Parlante for pizza. Mahalo has delicious, healthy food like a tempeh bowl, but you need to book, and the service was incredibly slow on our visit.
• Playa del Charco del Conde – This little sandy beach has a calm, natural pool. It’s good for kids and dips, but it’s too small for real swimming. You can get good ice cream at Heladeria La Crema opposite.
• Playa De Vueltas – This small sandy beach at the port is often protected from the wind. The sea is calm, but the many moored boats make longer swims tricky. The nearby Heladería El Sueño de Yanini is good, and it’s next to a little vegetarian cafe (too busy for us to get in).

3) Roque de Agando to Casa del Manco

Roque de Agando is a volcanic rock formation in the centre of the island, surrounded by other peaks called Los Roques.

You can drive up for a look at Mirador de los Roques, but manage your expectations. When we first drove past, the rocks were totally obscured by clouds.

On our last day, we tried again and took a beautiful hike on a sunny morning, but clouds were already quickly gathering as we left.

We parked at the viewpoint just before Mirador de los Roques, right next to Roque de Agando. It was a 30-minute drive from San Sebastian La Gomera (where we stayed at the end of our trip).

It’s not marked on Google Maps, but it is on the AllTrails hike we did—Agando – La Laja – Agando.

The name is a bit misleading as you don’t go all the way to La Laja. I really wanted to do the much harder loop that goes to the village (Mirador de la Laja – Casa del Manco on AllTrails), but I wasn’t feeling well enough for the 667m elevation gain.

Instead, our short section of the trail took us down the hill to Casa del Manco (an old ruin of a house) and back up the same way.

The 3km out-and-back route took us 65 minutes, with 229m of elevation gain. The climb back up is steep, but it only took about 30 minutes and is manageable if you take breaks.

I’m sure the full loop is stunning, but if you are short on time or energy, this section is worth doing for stunning views of Los Roques.

It’s partly through the forest at the very edge of the national park, but it looks quite different from the Las Creces area and is also warmer (about 13ºC for us, but that felt hot in the sun).

4) Vallehermoso to Presa de la Encantadora

Vallehermoso is a village in the northwest of La Gomera. As always, it’s reached by a dramatic winding drive down a terraced valley. It’s one of the most stunning parts of the island.

It usually takes about 50 minutes from Valle Gran Rey, but the outward journey took us longer as we got stuck in roadworks several times.

Although it’s not quite as cold as the centre of the island, it was still cooler (15ºC) and cloudier than the coast. But at least we could see something—it was a full whiteout when we drove through the national park.

There are lots of hikes from the village, but they are all steep. We did the only moderate one listed on AllTrails—Vallehermoso – Presa de la Encantadora – Los Chapines.

It was my favourite hike on the island, even with grey, drizzly weather.

We started in the main square, Plaza de la Constitución, with a coffee at one of the bars. There’s a free parking lot nearby, or we had to find street parking.

The 4.7km hike took us 1 hour and 20 minutes with 266m elevation gain.

It starts with a steep climb for about 30 minutes as you leave the village with views of terraced gardens, palm trees, colourful houses below, and the rugged mountains beyond.

At the top, there’s an impressive view of the dam, Presa de la Encantadora.

The trail down is rocky and steep, but not too bad when it’s dry (good shoes are a must, poles might help).

You then cross the dam and walk back to the village for 20 minutes along a quiet road with more lovely views.

Back in the village, we had an excellent lunch at Tasca El Carraca. The papas arrugadas with mojo and grilled aubergine (an unusual veggie option) were especially good.

5) Arure to Mirador Los Barranquillos

This walk from Arure isn’t a must-do, but it was pleasant and easy.

We chose it when we wanted an easy walk near Valle Gran Rey (it’s a 20-minute drive up the mountain) with clearer weather than the national park (which was very cloudy).

The walk is #32 in the Rother book and is 6.9km with 220 metres of elevation gain. They estimate 2 hours, but it took us a little less than that, even with a few wrong turns.

It starts at Casa Conchita restaurant in the village of Arure. The route is a mix of green valley and forest, leading up to two viewpoints in the national park (you can also drive to these) before looping back down a different way.

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Other Hiking Areas in La Gomera

The main hiking area we missed was Hermigua and Agulo, two neighbouring villages in the northeast of the island.

We drove to Agulo on our way back from Valle Gran Rey to San Sebastian, but we only stopped for a short stroll.

Agulo is known as the prettiest village in Spain, with its cobbled streets and 18th-century Canarian architecture (which reminded us of Latin America).

I think that’s overselling things, but it does have a beautiful location between the mountains and the sea.

The drive here was quite arduous, but it would have been more worthwhile if we had hiked in the area.

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What to Eat in La Gomera

If you have worked up an appetite while walking, here are some local dishes to look out for on La Gomera.

• Almogrote – A spicy dip made from goat’s cheese, peppers, tomatoes and garlic. Often served with bread as a starter.
• Mojo – These spicy sauces come in green or red versions and are often served with bread or potatoes. Delicious!
• Papas Arrugadas – Small wrinkly potatoes boiled with their skins on and served with mojo.
• Queso Gomero – Local cheeses are made from sheep or goat’s milk and are often served grilled with miel de palma.
• Miel de Palma – Palm honey is sap from the Canarian palm trees you see all over the island. It’s used in desserts or drizzled on cheese and vegetables.
• Potaje de Berros – This soup is made from watercress and gofio, a Canarian flour. The stock is unlikely to be vegetarian.

You’ll also find plenty of fish and meat dishes, but as vegetarians, we skipped those. Valle Gran Rey has the most restaurant options if you have dietary needs.

Our favourite restaurant was Tasca El Carraca in Vallehermoso. The mojo was the most flavourful we had, and they had a few vegetarian dishes beyond the usual cheese and potatoes.

For the most vegetarian options, try Casa Efigenia La Montaña in Las Hayas up in the mountains near the national park.

It’s entirely vegetarian with a focus on traditional local dishes. The set lunch for €12 is good value, including almogrote, a gofio hummus, salad, a main of watercress soup or vegetable stew, and dessert.

The food was simple and hearty but not quite to our tastes.

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Where to Stay in La Gomera

When considering the best place to stay for hiking in La Gomera, Vallehermoso and Hermigua are most often recommended, as they are close to many hiking trails and not too far (about 30 minutes) from the national park.

The downside of these towns is that they are at a higher elevation and are colder and often cloudier than the coast.

As I wanted some sun and to swim in the sea, I chose Valle Gran Rey as our main base. I have no regrets as it’s a beautiful area.

We spent 5 nights there and then the last 2 nights in the capital, San Sebastian La Gomera, so that we were close by for our 7am ferry on departure.

Here’s where we stayed:

Hotel Gran Rey

Hotel Gran Rey is probably the nicest hotel in Valle Gran Rey, but it’s still a midrange option.

We didn’t get the best first impression, as they gave us a room next to one undergoing noisy building works. The hotel was full, so they couldn’t give us another room. The worst thing was that they were unapologetic about this, so it wasn’t a great start.

After a few days, when the work had stopped, we ended up enjoying our stay.

The positives are the sea view rooms with balconies, the rooftop pool with lovely views, and the location across the road from a beach (pebbly, but I enjoyed swimming here).

Breakfast is served at the rooftop restaurant and had a good selection (including freshly squeezed orange juice), although it was a little crowded.

Rooms are simple but fine, and we appreciated details like a drying rack on the balcony. There’s a fridge, but no kettle (you might be able to request one).

The cleaning station for hiking shoes outside was also very handy.

Parador De La Gomera

Parador De La Gomera is one of the nicest hotels on La Gomera. The historic building has a beautiful location on a cliff above San Sebastian La Gomera, with lovely gardens and a pool with sea view.

While the building itself feels grand, our room (with twin beds, like everywhere on the island) felt rather austere. It had a kettle and a minibar.

We didn’t like that you had to book a time for breakfast, but at least the food was good.

We skipped dinner at the upscale restaurant and just grabbed a pricey pizza at the bar (which took forever to arrive, but that’s common on the island).

The hotel is a 15-minute walk into town (up steep steps on the way back). A taxi cost €10, which we took to the ferry port (after dropping off our car the previous day).

While I’m glad we didn’t spend our whole trip here, we enjoyed it for a few nights, and it was convenient being close to the ferry.

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Getting to La Gomera

Flying

La Gomera does not have an international airport, and the nearest one is on neighbouring Tenerife.

We flew from London Gatwick to Tenerife South (TFS) with British Airways. Many low-cost carriers fly here from across Europe as it’s a popular holiday destination.

At the airport, we joined the long taxi queue (which only took 20 minutes in the end) and took a taxi to the port, Puerto Los Cristianos, a 20-30-minute ride depending on traffic.

The driver used the meter, and the fare was €32. There are a few Ubers, but they were twice the price.

You can also take a bus to the port.

Ferry

From Puerto Los Cristianos on Tenerife, it’s a 50-minute ferry ride to San Sebastian de La Gomera.

Two companies operate on the route—Naviera Armas and Fred Olsen. Both have similar large ferries with plenty of seating and a cafe, so just choose whichever one is next.

We bought tickets at the port (we needed passports to do this) for €46 each one way.

The crossing was pretty rough on the way out but calmer on the way back.

Getting Around La Gomera

On the island, it’s best to rent a car, but it is possible to get around by bus (limited schedules) and taxi. San Sebastian has the most bus options.

As usual, we booked our car via Booking.com and ended up with Avis at the port in San Sebastian.

Collection was easy, and we dropped the keys in the box on departure.

Our Polo was a bit beaten up, but at least it had CarPlay.

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La Gomera Map

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Is La Gomera Worth Visiting?

La Gomera is definitely worth visiting if you are looking for quiet trails, diverse scenery from desert to forest, and spectacular views.

It did give us the winter sun we were looking for, although not in the centre of the island, where it was usually cloudy and chilly.

As La Gomera is remote, you have to expect a more rustic experience than on the neighbouring Canary Islands. Service was slow, the hotels aren’t fancy, and there’s not much variety in restaurants.

But if nature and peace are your priority, La Gomera is a fantastic choice.

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More Hiking Posts

Here are our guides to some of our other favourite hiking destinations:

• Hiking Corniglia to Manarola (via Volastra) in Cinque Terre (Italy)
• Hiking the Path of the Gods (and Amalfi Coast on a Budget) (Italy)
• Hiking from Camogli to San Fruttuoso: Everything You Need to Know (Italy)
• 8 Easy Hikes in Sedona with Stunning Views (and What to Skip) (USA)
• 14 Best Hikes in Joshua Tree National Park, California (USA)
• 7 Beautiful Walks in Noosa National Park (For All Abilities) (Australia)

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Our Iceland winter road trip took us to glaciers, black sand beaches, and endless waterfalls.

We rode adorably fluffy Icelandic horses, soaked in hot springs, and attempted to see the northern lights.

For our 8-day self-drive trip, we focused on the Golden Circle and South Iceland, as these are most accessible in winter.

In this Iceland winter itinerary, I share our route (including famous sights and off-the-beaten-track gems), where we stayed, and tips for visiting Iceland in winter.

Contents

• Tokyo Disney Hotels Comparison
• Our Top Picks
• Why Stay Onsite in a Tokyo Disney Hotel?
• Reasons Not to Stay in a Tokyo Disney Hotel
• Best Tokyo Disney Hotels Ranked
• Hotels Near Tokyo Disney Resort
• Tips for Staying Onsite
• Tokyo Disney Hotel Costs
• Map of Tokyo Disney Hotels
• Is Staying in a Tokyo Disney Hotel Worth It?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access vs Priority Pass vs FastPass
• Tokyo Disney Premier Access Price
• How Much Time Does Premier Access Save?
• How to Buy Disney Premier Access
• Tokyo Disneyland Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Tokyo DisneySea Premier Access Rides and Priorities
• Premier Access for Parades and Shows
• Premier Access with Vacation Packages
• Is Tokyo Disney Premier Access Worth it?
• More Tokyo Tips
• Where is Kamakura, Japan?
• Things to Do in Kamakura
• Coffee Shops in Kamakura
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Kamakura
• Where We Stayed in Kamakura
• How to Get to Kamakura
• Map of Kamakura, Japan
• Is Kamakura Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Our 10 Day Hokkaido Itinerary at a Glance
• An Alternative 7 Day Hokkaido Itinerary
• Hokkaido in Summer: What to Expect
• Driving in Hokkaido
• Map of Our Hokkaido Road Trip
• Our Hokkaido Itinerary in Detail
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Akan Mashu National Park?
• Things to Do in Akan Mashu National Park: Lake Mashu Area
• Things to Do at Lake Kussharo
• Lake Akan
• Where to Stay in Akan Mashu National Park
• Map of Akan Mashu National Park
• Is Akan Mashu National Park Worth Visiting?
• More Japan Tips
• Where is Alassio, Italy?
• The British Heritage in Alassio
• Best Things to Do in Alassio
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Alassio
• Where to Stay in Alassio
• How to Get to Alassio
• Alassio, Italy Map
• Is Alassio Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• Where is Levanto, Italy?
• Best Things to Do in Levanto
• Our Favourite Places to Eat in Levanto
• Where to Stay in Levanto
• How to Get to Levanto
• Levanto vs La Spezia as a Base for Cinque Terre
• Levanto, Italy Map
• Is Levanto Worth Visiting?
• More Italian Riviera Tips
• How Does Universal Express Pass Work?
• Do You Really Need an Express Pass at Universal Japan?
• How Much Time Does an Express Pass Save?
• Which Rides are Best with a USJ Express Pass?
• Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Price
• How to Buy a Universal Studios Japan Express Pass
• Types of USJ Express Pass
• Best Express Pass Times to Choose
• Is Universal Studios Japan Express Pass Worth It?
• Other Japan Tips
• What to Expect Hiking La Gomera
• Hiking in La Gomera Resources
• Easy Walks in La Gomera
• Other Hiking Areas in La Gomera
• What to Eat in La Gomera
• Where to Stay in La Gomera
• Getting to La Gomera
• La Gomera Map
• Is La Gomera Worth Visiting?
• More Hiking Posts
• Iceland in Winter: What to Expect
• Our Iceland Winter Itinerary at a Glance
• Map of Our Iceland Winter Road Trip
• Our Iceland Winter Road Trip in Detail
• Is Iceland Worth Visiting in Winter?
• More Iceland Posts

Iceland in Winter: What to Expect

Here are some tips specific to Iceland winter travel. For more advice, see my guide to Planning a Trip to Iceland: Dos and Don’ts.

Weather

Iceland doesn’t get as cold as you might think in winter. During our late January trip, temperatures ranged from -3ºC to 4ºC (27ºF to 39ºF), which is about average.

The wind chill factor can make it much colder, though, so do pack plenty of warm layers as you’ll be spending most of your time outside.

We packed similar clothes as for our trip to Norway—see our Tromso winter packing list.

Rain or snow is always a possibility, but we didn’t have much rain and no snow (it was an unusually unsnowy winter). I highly recommend a waterproof jacket and shoes or boots.

We brought our microspikes with us, but didn’t need them. I do recommend them in winter in Iceland, though, as trails can get icy and they help you avoid slipping.

Daylight Hours

At the beginning of January, there are 4.5 hours of daylight in Reykjavik.

That increases rapidly, and by the end of January, we had 7 hours of daylight with sunrise at 10.10am and sunset at 5.10pm.

I’m glad we visited later in the month to have more hours to explore.

You can check sunrise and sunset times on Time and Date.

You should also look at the Civil Twilight times. This means the time before sunrise or after sunset when there’s enough light to see. This gave us about an hour extra at each end of the day.

The advantage of visiting Iceland in winter is the gorgeous golden light all day (at least when the sun shines). You also don’t have to get up early to enjoy the sunrise!

Driving Conditions

Driving conditions vary during winter, which is why we stuck to the south, where roads are more likely to be clear. Driving the full Ring Road (Route 1 all the way around the island) in winter is risky, as roads can close.

You should be prepared to drive on snow and ice. If you aren’t confident with that, it’s safer to base yourself in Reykjavik and take bus tours.

As Iceland had minimal snow before our trip, all the roads were clear for us. We had a little bit of ice on some mornings, but nothing of concern.

Before you head out each day, it’s essential to check the road conditions. We used the Faerd & Vedur app, or you can check the Umferdin website.

A regular car should be fine for this route. We rented a compact SUV just in case, though. We rented from Europcar at Keflavik Airport and had no problems. I usually compare the best deals and book through Booking.com.

Another essential app for this trip is Parka, which allows you to pay for parking at many attractions (some don’t have machines).

Expect to pay around 1000 ISK ($8/ £6) for parking almost everywhere. There were no entrance fees on this route, though, except for hot springs.

Make sure you have an affordable international data plan or buy an eSim from Airalo—it worked well for us and we had good signal everywhere.

Northern Lights

There’s a chance of seeing the northern lights throughout the winter in Iceland.

Sadly, we didn’t get lucky on this trip (we did see them on our Westfjords trip in late September).

To check the chances of seeing them and if the skies will be clear, use the Aurora app.

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Our Iceland Winter Itinerary at a Glance

We had 8 nights in Iceland at the end of January and beginning of February.

This was our route—we mostly avoided towns to focus on nature and increase our chances of seeing the northern lights from rural accommodation.

We self-catered everywhere except for our last night in the capital.

• Near Selfoss (Golden Circle) – Akurgerði Guesthouse for 3 nights.
• Near Skaftafell (South Coast) – The Potato Storage for 2 nights.
• Near Vik (South Coast) – Black Beach Suites for 1 night.
• Hvammsvik Nature Resort for 1 night.
• Reykjavik – Guesthouse Galtafell for 1 night.

We loved everywhere we stayed (except the guesthouse in Reykjavik, which was fine for the price).

We used Booking.com to book everywhere about five months in advance.

Booking so far in advance isn’t always necessary in winter, but it gave us more options. The owner of Akurgerði said she is almost always booked up year-round. Winter isn’t as quiet a time as it used to be.

Airbnb is also worth checking if you want self-catering accommodation.

If You Have Less Time

7 Day Iceland Winter Itinerary

If you have 7 nights, I would reduce the Golden Circle by one night or skip either Hvammsvik (if you’re not interested in hot springs or it’s over budget) or Reykjavik.

Personally, I wished we’d skipped Reykjavik as I prefer spending time in the countryside. Being close to the airport on your last night is a good idea in winter, though, even if you have a later flight. And for your first trip, you’ll likely want to experience the capital.

5 Day Iceland Winter Itinerary

With just 5 days in winter, I think it’s sensible to skip the Skaftafell area and Hvammsvik (even though they were our favourite areas). I would suggest 2 nights Golden Circle, 2 nights in Vik, and 1 night in Reykjavik.

That said, our friends at Bridges and Balloons did this 5 day Iceland itinerary to Reykjavik, the Golden Circle, and South Coast (including a glacier ice cave tour), so it is possible to follow most of our route in a shorter period.

Some of their travel days were longer than we wanted, though, and involved driving in the dark. You definitely don’t want to try this if you aren’t experienced driving in winter conditions.

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Map of Our Iceland Winter Road Trip

This map shows all the places we visited on our Iceland winter trip.

I have added pins to the parking areas of each attraction where possible, so you get more accurate driving directions/times.

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Our Iceland Winter Road Trip in Detail

Day 1: Airport to Golden Circle (3 Nights)

Drive from Keflavik Airport to Akurgerdi: 1 hour 20 minutes / 96km (60 miles).

Our flight arrived at Keflavik Airport (KEF) at 5.15pm, so we had to drive in the dark, which was fine, but it would be better to arrive earlier.

It took us about 45 minutes to get through immigration, collect our suitcase, and pick up our rental car.

We then stopped at the supermarket, Krónan Reykjanesbæ, 10 minutes away, which had a good selection (including vegan options).

We arrived at our cabin at 7.30pm and had an easy frozen pizza dinner.

Where We Stayed: Akurgerði Guesthouse

We absolutely loved our little one-room cabin, Akurgerði Guesthouse 8, which is one of four on a horse farm between Hveragerði and Selfoss.

The decor is so unique—ours had lots of horse-themed details, using old wood and farm equipment.

The highlight was the hot tub on the terrace.

While this area doesn’t feel as remote as later in the trip (we could see a road and town lights in the far distance), the views were still good.

It’s a handy base for the Golden Circle and not too far from the airport.

Day 2: Golden Circle Waterfalls and Geysers

Drive from Akurgerdi to Gulfoss and Back: 2 hours 20 minutes / 160km (99 miles).

Today we visited two of the three main attractions on the Golden Circle. This popular sightseeing route is the most popular day tour from Reykjavik. We much preferred exploring at our own pace.

We were out from 10.30am to 5.30pm.

Gulfoss Falls

We started with the farthest-away attraction, then made stops on our way back.

Gulfoss is a huge, iconic waterfall with multiple gushing cascades in a river.

There’s free parking (rare in Iceland!), and it’s an easy 5-minute paved walk to the upper viewpoint.

We spent about 30 minutes braving the wind and walking to various viewpoints to see it from different angles. The lower trail can be icy, so microspikes are often needed (but not for us).

Gulfoss is truly spectacular, and the most epic of the 12 waterfalls we visited on this trip (it ended up #3 in our personal rankings).

Afterwards, we had a nice lunch (panini, apple pie, hot chocolate) in the cafe, which wasn’t too busy. There’s also a gift shop and toilets.

Geysir

10 minutes back down the road is another extremely popular stop. The Geysir area is a steaming geothermal landscape of hot streams and bubbling pools.

It’s an easy walk (although it can be icy) to see the main attraction, Strokkur Geyser, which erupts every 10 minutes or so.

We waited to see three eruptions, and they varied in size. It’s a fun and easy stop.

Parking was 1086 ISK in the Parka app. There’s a shop, a busy restaurant, and toilets.

Faxafoss

We were ready for a less crowded attraction, and Faxafoss was perfect—we had it to ourselves!

Parking is 900 ISK—unusually, you pay an attendant at the entrance (card payments are fine—we didn’t use cash our whole trip).

It’s a few minutes’ walk to the upper viewpoint and maybe 5 minutes down to the water.

We loved that we could get right up to the wide and powerful falls. It was also sheltered from the wind.

There are no toilets here, and the cafe was closed.

Laugarás Lagoon

Our final stop was for a relaxing soak in one of the many geothermal hot pools in the area.

We chose Laugarás Lagoon, which opened in 2025, and were able to get in without a booking at 2.45pm.

The facilities are modern, and it wasn’t too busy.

There are large pools on two levels with a swim-up bar and waterfall. It’s more of a place to wander around or sit and enjoy the river views than to actually swim.

I really enjoyed alternating between the sauna and cold plunge pool, which you don’t find at all hot springs in Iceland.

It was the perfect end to the day. Their restaurant is supposed to be excellent, but we went back to our cabin to cook.

Day 3: Horse Riding and Thingvellir National Park

Drive from Akurgerdi to Thingvellir and Back: 1 hour 40 minutes / 105km (65 miles).

Horse Riding

As we were staying on a horse farm, we couldn’t miss out on a ride on the Icelandic horses, extra cute and fluffy in winter.

The friendly owner of Akurgerdi Farm, Sabine, took us out for a private hour-long ride (20,000 ISK per person).

The horses were lovely, the scenery beautiful, and we appreciated that Sabine was happy for us to tolt (the unique Icelandic pace) and gallop. This is not a nose-to-tail riding place, although she can cater to all levels.

Thingvellir National Park

After lunch at our cabin, we drove to the third major attraction on the Golden Circle—Thingvellir National Park.

This is a UNESCO World Heritage site where the first parliament was held in 930AD.

It’s also where North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, and a pretty place for an easy walk.

We parked at Þingvellir Parking P1, which is a short walk from the visitor centre. Parking is 1000 ISK and you pay at a machine in the visitor centre.

There are toilets, a small shop, and a basic cafe with baked goods and sandwiches (I enjoyed some Icelandic Happy Marriage Cake after our walk).

This is a tour bus stop, so it was a little busy at first. You don’t have to walk far from the first viewing platform to leave the crowds behind. By the time we left at 3pm, it was much quieter.

We did this 5km loop trail to Oxararfoss Waterfall, which took us to most of the major sights in about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Day 4: Drive South Coast to Skaftafell (2 Nights)

Drive from Akurgerdi to The Potato Storage: 4 hours / 289km (180 miles).

Today we moved on to the south coast with a full day’s driving and stops at some stunning waterfalls. We were lucky to have a glorious, sunny day.

Allow plenty of time for this drive, as all the amazing stops take longer than you’d think. We were out from 9.30am to 5pm.

First, we restocked with groceries at Kronan supermarket in Selfoss and filled up with petrol.

The landscape was fairly flat until we hit the coast, and then the views were spectacular.

Seljalandsfoss

The downside of driving in Iceland in winter is the limited light and the inability to get an early start to avoid the tour buses.

We really felt this when we arrived at Seljalandsfoss at 11.15am, as it was so crowded that it was hard to enjoy.

It’s a dramatic waterfall with a large drop. In winter, the path behind the falls was closed.

We also walked 10 minutes on a rather icy trail to Gljúfrabúi, a waterfall inside a cave. The entrance is narrow, and there are only a few rocks to stand on inside, so it seemed too stressful to try to go in with the large crowds.

Parking is 1000 ISK, and you pay at a machine. There are also toilets and a small stand with coffee, baked goods, and sandwiches.

Skógafoss

It’s a stunning 30-minute drive further along the coast to another major waterfall.

While Skógafoss was also busy, we found it so spectacular that we didn’t mind as much.

You can get right up to the bottom of the powerful falls. The golden midday light was stunning in winter, and we even had a perfectly arched rainbow!

You can also walk up many stairs to see the waterfall from above, but we were concerned about time and skipped it.

Parking is 1000 ISK with the Parka app. There are also toilets and a hotel with a restaurant.

Kvernufoss

Kvernufoss is only 5 minutes from Skogafoss, but there were only a few other people around. It ended up being our favourite waterfall.

We parked at Kvernufoss parking lot just past the Skogar Museum. There are no facilities, and the museum cafe is closed in winter. Parking is 750 ISK in the Parka app.

The walk to Kvernufoss takes about 15 minutes through a field, then into a gorge beside a pretty river. It feels very peaceful.

The waterfall has a dramatic setting inside the gorge. You can get up close and even walk behind it (without getting wet).

Vik

Back on Route 1, we continued along the coast with a beautiful glacier view.

30 minutes later, the drive into the small town of Vik was also lovely with its red-roofed wooden church perched on a hill overlooking the sea.

We didn’t stay long in Vik as we’d be returning in a few days. We grabbed a coffee and a cake at Lava Bakery in a big tourist centre (nothing special but convenient).

We also had a quick walk on the dramatic Víkurfjara Black Sand Beach across the road.

We still had two hours to go, so we moved on, passing more craggy mountains in even golder light, a strangely flat area, a lava field, and then back to the mountains.

There are a few good stops on this stretch, but we saved them for the way back in two days.

The only brief stop we made was at Fossalar, a free parking area by a river with stunning views.

The final stretch as we approached Skaftafell Glacier was just incredible—snowy mountains glowing orange as the sun set with a full moon above.

Where We Stayed: The Potato Storage

We stayed at The Potato Storage, a family-run guesthouse with five apartments in an old potato shed.

The location was ideal, just 10 minutes past Skaftafell, where we wanted to hike, and 40 minutes before the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

We chose the bigger one-bedroom apartment at the front with beautiful mountain views.

It was clean, comfortable and well-equipped.

This peaceful spot would be ideal to see the aurora, but we didn’t get lucky.

Day 5: Glaciers and Svartifoss Hike

Drive from Potato Storage to Jökulsárlón and Skaftafell and Back: 1 hour 45 minutes / 118km (73 miles).

Today was all about glaciers. This area is home to the massive Vatnajökull National Park, which includes Iceland’s largest glacier.

We chose not to take a tour onto the glacier to see ice caves, as we had done that on a previous trip (on a different glacier).

These tours are a highlight for many, so you might consider one such as the Skaftafell: Blue Ice Cave & Glacier Hike on Vatnajökull with Arctic Adventures, which starts just 10 minutes from The Potato Storage.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is one of the most famous attractions in Iceland, with icebergs floating in a lake at the edge of a glacier.

In winter, you can’t kayak or take a boat trip on the lake, but there are more icebergs to see.

We arrived around sunrise at 9.50am on a rainy morning. There were already a few tour buses, but it didn’t feel too crowded. I imagine it gets a lot busier later in the day.

Parking is 1126 ISK in the Parka app and covers the parking area across the road at Diamond Beach, too, but we just walked over.

There are toilets, a basic shop/cafe with coffee, baked goods and soup, and some food trucks (closed in the morning).

From the large car park, it’s a quick walk to the edge of the lagoon. It’s so impressive! The water is full of ice chunks in all shapes and shades of blue and white.

You can walk along the lagoon and up to a viewpoint, but it looks amazing from anywhere.

We then walked along the lagoon under a bridge and over the road to Diamond Beach.

The icebergs wash up on this black sand beach, and it’s an incredible sight, like nowhere else we’ve visited. You can get up close to endless chunks of ice, some huge. Some are crystal clear, while others glow blue.

We spent ages exploring and even saw a seal swimming in the sea.

This is an example of a popular tourist attraction that very much lives up to the hype.

Fjallsárlón Glacier

But things got even better! We drove 10 minutes back along Route 1 and stopped at Fjallsárlón Glacier Parking.

Parking is free. Frost Restaurant is based here and has toilets that are free for customers or 200 ISK.

There’s a path to the right of the restaurant that takes you to Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon in about five minutes.

Incredibly, we had the lagoon entirely to ourselves! The lagoon is smaller than Jökulsárlón, which meant we could see the glacier more clearly.

Even on a rainy day, it was magical!

Hike from Skaftafell to Svartifoss

It was just 30 minutes back to our apartment, leaving the rain behind for sunny skies. Skaftafell is known for its microclimate and is sunnier than most of South Iceland.

After a lunch break, we drove the 10 minutes to Skaftafell Visitor Centre. This area is a nature reserve (part of the larger National Park) and the starting point for many hikes and glacier tours.

Parking is 1040 ISK (Parka app or a machine). There are toilets, but the cafe is closed in winter.

We did one of the shorter hikes—3.8km (2.4 miles) out and back to Svartifoss waterfall, which took us 70 minutes total with 178 metres (584ft) elevation gain.

It’s a steepish ascent to the waterfall, but not too challenging. We were boiling in our big jackets in the sun, though.

Svartifoss is unique because it’s surrounded by basalt columns, formed from lava.

It’s a beautiful waterfall, but the downside of this hike is the lack of glacier views.

Some longer routes include the glaciers, but conditions can be challenging in winter (spikes likely needed).

Day 6: Drive Skaftafell to Vik (1 Night)

Drive from The Potato Storage to Black Beach Suites: 2 hours 20 minutes/ 169km (105 miles).

It was time to start making our way back along Route 1. Although we covered the same ground as on Day 4, we made different stops.

The Skaftafell to Vik drive is only 2 hours, but we were out for about 6 hours with stops.

Svínafellsjökull Glacier

Our first stop was just 7 minutes from our apartment, and it was a highlight!

Svínafellsjökull is an easily accessible glacier, just a short drive down a gravel road off Route 1.

We parked at Svínafellsjökull Parking, which was free but had no facilities.

The walk to the glacier takes about 10 minutes on an obvious path with fantastic snowy mountain views.

This was another quiet spot that we had to ourselves until we were leaving.

You can walk right up to the glacier, which is stunning with carved blue ice backed by mountains.

Fossalar

We stopped at Fossalar again to eat our packed lunch in the car, with a view of the river and mountains.

Stjórnarfoss

In our quest to find quieter waterfalls, we stopped at Stjórnarfoss, a few minutes off Route 1.

Parking was free (no toilets), and we were alone.

You can see the waterfall from the road or walk a few minutes to get up close. While it’s not huge, it has a dramatic location in a gorge and is a peaceful spot.

Vatnajökulsþjóðgarðs Visitor Centre

The previous stops lacked toilets, so that was our main reason for stopping at the newish Vatnajökulsþjóðgarðs Visitor Centre in a cool grass-roofed building.

We used the facilities, bought a cake and hot chocolate (in winter, there was no other food), and had a quick look around their information on the glaciers and national park.

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

Fjaðrárgljúfur is a stunning canyon reached by a paved road just five minutes off Route 1.

Parking is 1086 ISK on the Parka app. There are a couple of toilets, but no other facilities.

While you can see the canyon from near the car park, the best views are a 20-minute walk up a hill, where you can also see the beautiful waterfall, Mögárfoss.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

We passed through Vik and picked up supplies at the Kronan supermarket (not as large as the others on this route, but still fine).

On the other side of Vik is Reynisfjara, a hugely popular black sand beach.

Parking is 1086 ISK in the Parka app, and there’s a restaurant.

The beach is right next to the car park. It’s wild and scenic with waves crashing into the cliffs. But it’s also immensely busy, so we didn’t spend long here.

You need to be extremely careful—don’t get anywhere close to the water. Tourists have been killed here by giant sneaker waves that come out of nowhere. Coastal erosion has recently made the beach smaller, making it even harder to walk on.

Honestly, this was one famous sight we could have happily skipped.

Where We Stayed: Black Beach Suites

We stayed just 5 minutes from Reynisfjara at Black Beach Suites, which has multiple apartments with fantastic views of the surrounding countryside and coast.

We stayed in a modern, comfortable studio apartment. The kitchen wasn’t as well-equipped as the others we’d had, but it was fine for an easy pasta dinner.

The hostel next door also has a bar with snacks, and it’s a 10-minute drive back to Vik.

Day 7: Drive Vik to Hvammsvik (1 Night)

Drive from Black Beach Suites to Hvammsvik Nature Resort: 3 hours 20 minutes/ 229km (142 miles).

We could have made our way back to Reykjavik from Vik (2.5 hours), but I decided to take a detour an hour north of the capital to visit Hvammsvik Hot Springs.

On the way, we made some South Coast stops that we’d missed on Day 4 and drove through part of the Golden Circle again.

We were out driving (with stops) for about 5.5 hours today.

Solheimajökull Glacier Tongue

It was a 25-minute drive to Solheimajökull Glacier Tongue.

Parking is 750 ISK on Parka. There was a closed coffee truck. I believe there are toilets for a fee.

This is the base camp for many glacier tours, and at 10am several groups were walking up to the glacier.

It’s a 10-minute walk to a viewpoint, but you can’t get up close to the glacier without special gear and a guide.

While it was nice to see, our other glacier experiences were much better, so I would skip this one.

Gluggafoss

Our next stop was our second favourite waterfall of the trip (after Kvernufoss).

Gluggafoss is a 15-minute detour off Route 1 (just past Seljalandsfoss) on a bumpy gravel road.

Parking is 1000 ISK in Parka. There are no facilities except some picnic tables.

You can see the waterfall from the car park, but it’s worth the short walk along the river to get up close.

The waterfall has three tiers. You can walk behind the water on the first tier and walk right up to the middle tier.

It’s a stunning waterfall, and we were the only people there.

We had a one-hour drive to Selfoss from here—this route didn’t take us back on the gravel road.

Selfoss for Lunch

As we wouldn’t have a proper kitchen this evening, we stopped in Selfoss for a big lunch.

We had an enjoyable pizza in The Old Dairy Food Hall. Other options were burgers, Thai, pasta, dim sum, and tacos.

Þórufoss

Although we were back on the Golden Circle, we took a different route than previously (you could also go via Thingvellir). It was a scenic 50-minute drive on the 350 and 360 past lava fields and a frozen lake to Þórufoss.

This is known as a quieter stop on the Golden Circle, and there were only two other cars in the free car park (no facilities).

Þórufoss didn’t live up to our expectations, partly because the waterfall was in shadow, and also because to reach it, you had to scramble down some rocks, which didn’t feel appealing in the extremely strong winds we had. The path down isn’t obvious.

One to try another time.

Hvammsvik Hot Springs

Hvammsvik Hot Springs is 20 minutes from Þórufoss.

The location is stunning on Hvalfjörður (Whale Fjord), and there are cottages to rent, as well as hot springs open to the public.

We splurged on one of the beautiful cottages (see below) and, after checking in, went to relax in the hot springs.

Hvammsvik has a more natural setting than many of Iceland’s paid geothermal baths. There are 8 smallish pools of varying temperatures on a beach overlooking the fjord.

The big appeal for me was being able to cold plunge in the sea (a chilly 3ºC/37ºF!) before warming up in the pools and steam room.

Definitely take or rent water shoes if you want to go in the sea, as the beach is rocky.

Even if (like Simon) you don’t fancy braving the cold, this is a lovely place to relax, especially at sunset when the mountains glowed orange.

Hvammsvik was definitely our favourite of the three hot spring resorts we visited on this trip.

Where We Stayed: Artist Lodge at Hvammsvik

Hvammsvik Nature Resort has a few larger houses to rent, but we went with the one-bedroom chalet called an Artist Lodge (they feature real artwork).

It was pricey but worth it, and we wished we’d had more than one night.

The setting of the resort is beautiful with fjord and mountain views. It feels far away from it all.

We loved the views from our cabin, the modern, stylish design, and comfy double bed (in a country where twins are the rule).

The only downside was the lack of a proper kitchen (the bigger houses do have them). We did have a toaster, kettle, coffee pod machine, and plates/cutlery, etc.

We made toast for dinner and breakfast. You could also order a snack or breakfast basket, or eat in the bistro at the hot springs (limited menu).

Guests get a 25% discount off the entrance to the hot springs, which are a 15-minute walk (or short drive) away.

There’s also a free natural hot spring (no facilities) on the fjord, a 20-minute walk away (we didn’t have time to try it).

Of all the places we stayed, Hvammsvik is where we most want to return.

Day 8: Drive to Reykjavik (1 Night)

Drive from Hvammsvik Nature Resort to Reykjavik: 50 minutes/ 54km (34 miles).

After a morning session at the hot springs (so nice!), we had lunch at the bistro (the coconutty vegan soup was pretty good), then drove the 50 minutes south to Reykjavik.

Reykjavik

We spent the afternoon wandering past sights like Hallgrimskirkja Church, Rainbow Street, and Harpa Concert Hall, and grabbed an AeroPress coffee in Reykjavík Roasters.

Dinner was a veggie poke bowl from Pósthús Food Hall, which has a good range of options in a stylish space.

Where We Stayed: Guesthouse Galtafell

I chose Guesthouse Galtafell because it was the cheapest double ensuite room in the centre with free parking (on the street though).

Unsurprisingly, it was our least favourite accommodation. Our room was simple (and there was noisy plumbing above us), but it was fine for one night, and we could walk everywhere.

Day 9: Blue Lagoon and Departure

Drive from Reykjavik to Keflavik Airport via Blue Lagoon: 1 hour 10 minutes/ 72km (45 miles).

On our final morning, we had breakfast at Sandholt Cafe. My advice—skip the cinnamon buns; the poppyseed bun was better, and other pastries looked good. They also have hot breakfasts.

The cinnamon buns at Braud & Co are much nicer, so we got a takeout for later.

Blue Lagoon

As our flight wasn’t until 6pm, we spent our last afternoon at the Blue Lagoon, which is just 20 minutes from the airport (50 minutes from Reykjavik). An 11am booking gave us more than enough time.

Our expectations were fairly low for Iceland’s most popular attraction, as we don’t love very busy places.

And yes, it was busy, but I still enjoyed it. The lagoon is so huge that you can easily find quiet spots, and the steam obscures other people to a certain extent.

The man-made lagoon is a surreal place, with vibrant blue water set amid a moon-like lava landscape and a geothermal power plant steaming next door.

As well as the massive main pool, there are two steam rooms, an attractive sauna (not hot enough for me), a swim-up bar (one drink is included in the basic plan), and a face mask bar (silica mask included).

I spent about 2.5 hours in the lagoon (including getting changed). Afterwards, we had lunch in the casual cafe. Food was prepackaged, but the vegan chickpea and salad wrap was pretty good and big enough to share.

There’s also an expensive restaurant.

While it was not my favourite hot spring, the Blue Lagoon is worth visiting if you’re trying a few, especially if you have time to kill before or after a flight.

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Is Iceland Worth Visiting in Winter?

Iceland is definitely worth visiting in winter! I would happily visit Iceland at any time of year.

The upsides of winter are lower crowds (although tour buses were still out in force at popular spots), slightly lower prices, the chance to see northern lights, gorgeous golden light all day, and, potentially, beautiful snowy landscapes.

You also really appreciate the hot springs, and it’s the best time to visit the glaciers.

The downsides are limited daylight (visiting later in the winter helps), browner landscapes, and the chance of road closures (and tour cancellations) due to snow and ice.

While we got lucky and had no problems, you do need to be flexible, as the weather could delay your plans or make some areas inaccessible.

Also, if you are not confident driving on snow, I would skip a winter trip.

The weather is unpredictable year-round in Iceland, so I think it’s a magical place to visit in any season; it just depends what you are looking for.

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More Iceland Posts

Read more of our Iceland travel tips in our other posts:

• Planning a Trip to Iceland: DOs and DON’Ts
• Visiting Iceland in September: What to Expect and Things to Do
• Iceland Itinerary: Off The Beaten Path on a Snæfellsnes and Westfjords Road Trip
• The Ultimate Iceland Packing List for Men and Women (Carry-On Only)
• 14 Places Not to Miss on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula
• 10 Best Books About Iceland to Read Before You Visit 

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