When I landed in Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands, I felt as if part of my existence had returned to its original sacred home.

I had never been on this stunning, dormant volcanic island ruled by the Kingdom of Spain before.

So the feeling was as brutally intense as the lava fields and the trillions of dark rocks of all sizes that cover most of an island whose last eruption occurred approximately 4,000 to 5,000 years ago.

There is something truly fascinating and emotional about the marriage between the arid desert land and the turquoise-blue water that gently touches long strips of white sand here and there around the island.

On my way from the airport to the south of Fuerteventura, I was left stunned and mesmerized by the raw, violent force that Mother Nature imposed on this Atlantic paradise.

The bus that made the connection to the hotel had me jumping from the seats on the left to the ones on the right, as I stared, blessed by the opportunity, at the Universe's creations: the sleepy volcanoes and the brutality of the endless plains that surround these giant mountains.

Fuerteventura emerged from the ocean almost 20 million years ago, with its formation beginning much earlier, in the depths of the ocean, over 100 million years ago.

It is the oldest island of the Canarian archipelago.

Fuerteventura 1, doomscrolling 0.

I feel as calm and at peace as this wonder of Nature.

A desert that is never nothing

I wonder why desert landscapes like this hit my soul and body the way they do. They instantly turn my brain into reflection mode.

The bus makes its way south at a good pace.

Suddenly, the asphalt road is the only civilized touch in the vicinity - there are immense sand dunes on both sides, and I cannot resist checking Google Maps.

Yes, a massive sand plain rules over the island from the northwest to the southeast of Fuerteventura.

It's like nothing my eyes have ever laid on; beauty in a dreamy state. Sand dunes like those you may only see in the movies.

Fuerteventura reminds me of a place I have never been or thought existed. My very first thought was of Mars.

Everything looks like Mars on Earth, colonized, here and there, vaguely, by the last of us.

I saw single houses surrounded by just rocks and dark dust.

And as the bus was getting closer to the tip of Fuerteventura, I was swiftly invited to release a "Oh, my God..." to the collection of gorgeous blue shores where the wind was grooming the gentle, incoming swell.

A camper van by a perfectly peeling wave with nothing but water in the lineup. No surfers, no humans, no robots. Just the pure essence of surfing.

The wind patterns in Fuerteventura are well-known to watersports people. This sort of European Hawaii is the go-to destination for many windsurfers and kitesurfers.

But surfing rules this realm, too.

Here's why. Fuerteventura lies directly in the path of the relentless Northeast Trade Winds (Alisios).

Driven by the Azores High, these winds blow consistently year-round from the North-Northeast (NNE), keeping the island's climate pleasantly moderate.

They accelerate naturally as they flow over the ocean and channel across the island, typically bringing a refreshing breeze that averages 17 to 25 mph (15 to 22 knots).

Sea breezes are driven by the island's temperature.

As the land heats up during the day, warm air rises and draws in cooler, denser air from the ocean, strengthening the overall wind speed.

Good luck, sailor

The island's name is misleading, though. Many people incorrectly translate "Fuerteventura" as strong winds.

Although yes, it can be quite windy, it's a compound formed by the Spanish words "fuerte" ("strong" or "fort") and "ventura" ("fortune"), meaning wealth, luck, or destiny, or a reference to a "Great Fortunate" or lucky land.

After leaving my bags at rest in the hotel room, I ran toward the veranda that overlooks the multiple blue hues that make up this painting called the sea.

To the right, I observe a few waves bending to the elegant curvature of the shoreline and breaking as if calling for me.

In the last 60 minutes, I witnessed the ocean being blasted by wind, forming an army of white horses, the shore waters groomed by offshore breezes, and sideshore wind gusts agitating the water's surface as the sunset fell on the opposite side of the coast.

In some islands, we are fortunate to witness offshore becoming onshore and turning offshore again at the blink of an eye, or, should I say, at the rolling of basalt rocks down the volcanic slopes.

Somewhere between Africa's west coast and this Spanish desert island, my soul awaits the swell that turns these words into a memorable experience blessed by exotic wind patterns.

Because it's the invisible, transparent but touchy force that generates the spectacle that I gaze at.

A tí, Fuerteventura.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

One of the first images that comes to mind when we hear the word Waikiki is clear waters, white-sand strips, hotels, and tall buildings.

However, the Waikiki of today is rather different from Oahu's South Shore location of the 18th and 19th centuries.

Development and tourism conquered Waikiki, but Honolulu's iconic neighborhood still holds some of the charisma of the early 1900s.

It's one of the few places on Earth where surfing is part of a continuous cultural tradition stretching back centuries.

Some of the most interesting stories are hidden beneath the tourist image of beach umbrellas and surf schools.

Let's dig into some of the most relevant historic chapters in Waikiki's surf culture history.

Waikiki was surfing's original global capital

Long before California, Australia, or the North Shore of Oahu became surf icons, Waikiki was the place that introduced much of the world to surfing.

Early visitors in the 1800s described Hawaiians riding waves standing upright on wooden boards, something many Western observers had never seen before.

One of the first was Captain James Cook, who witnessed ancient Hawaiian chiefs and royalty regularly surfing here.

Hawaiian royalty surfed these exact waves

Surfing in Hawaii wasn't originally a casual beach activity. It was tied to status, spirituality, and skill.

Waikiki's long, forgiving reefs made it a favorite playground for ali'i (chiefs and royalty), who rode enormous boards and competed publicly to demonstrate athletic ability and mana (spiritual power).

So, since its inception, surfing has been sort of a show-off water activity.

However, long before it was a tourist hub, ancient Waikiki operated under the kapu system, a rigid structure of religious and social laws that strictly stratified society.

Surfing (he'e nalu) was deeply embedded in this system.

Commoners and royalty (ali'i) did not share the same waves.

Elite chiefs held monopolies over specific breaks, such as Kapuni in Waikiki, which were forbidden to commoners.

In fact, Hawaiian oral histories tell of an athlete named Pikoi who inadvertently rode a wave alongside the queen at her private, taboo surf spot and was nearly executed for the transgression.

The world's most famous surf ambassador grew up here

The legendary Duke Kahanamoku learned to surf in Waikiki.

While he won Olympic gold medals in swimming, he became even more influential for introducing surfing to places such as California and Australia.

One famous story: in 1915, Duke demonstrated surfing in Australia on a board he made himself, helping launch modern Australian surf culture.

What he exported was essentially Waikiki surf culture.

Some Waikiki waves may have the longest surfing history on Earth

The surf break known as Queens is often cited as one of the oldest continuously surfed waves in the world.

Historical evidence and Hawaiian oral traditions suggest people have been riding waves here for centuries, possibly more than a thousand years.

Waikiki's waves helped shape surfboard design

The long, peeling reef breaks of Waikiki reward graceful riding rather than brute-force maneuvers.

The unique environment helped develop classic longboard techniques such as cross-stepping and noseriding.

Modern longboard competitions still draw inspiration from the style born here.

The 19th-century missionary surfing ban

After Western contact and social upheaval in the 1800s, traditional Hawaiian culture - including surfing - declined dramatically.

When Christian missionaries arrived in Hawaii, they heavily disapproved of the sport.

It wasn't the wave-riding itself that bothered them, but rather the culture surrounding it: men and women surfing together without clothing, the intense community gambling on surf heats, and the fact that people skipped church when the surf was good.

Due to missionary pressure and the tragic drop in the Native Hawaiian population from introduced diseases, surfing was suppressed so heavily that by the late 19th century, only a relatively small number of Hawaiians still practiced it regularly.

The sport had to be actively revived in the early 1900s by a group of passionate locals and Hawaiian elites.

The first surf club in the world was founded in Waikiki

The Outrigger Canoe Club, founded in 1908, is generally regarded as the world's oldest organized surfing club.

Its goal was to preserve surfing and canoeing traditions while promoting Waikiki as a destination.

Surfing in Waikiki reflected Hawaii's racial tensions

One of the lesser-known stories involves the rivalry between the Outrigger Canoe Club and the Hawaiian-led Hui Nalu.

Many Native Hawaiian surfers felt excluded from elite institutions despite being heirs to the surfing tradition itself.

Duke Kahanamoku helped found Hui Nalu, which became a powerful force in preserving Hawaiian leadership within surfing culture.

The mythic 1-mile wave

Duke Kahanamoku, a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming, used his global fame to share the sport of he'e nalu (wave sliding) with the world.

But his most legendary feat happened right at home in Waikiki.

In 1917, riding a massive, 16-foot surfboard hand-carved from solid koa wood that weighed 114 pounds, Duke caught a monster swell at an outer reef break called Castle's.

He connected it through multiple surf lineups, speeding past the Moana Hotel and finally stepping off his board right onto the sand at Kahanamoku Beach.

The ride spanned a mind-boggling 1.125 miles, a distance that remains historically unbeatable.

Waikiki's famous Beach Boys were much more than surf instructors

The "Waikiki Beach Boys" were legendary watermen who taught visitors to surf, steered outrigger canoes, rescued swimmers, and served as cultural ambassadors.

Many tourists thought they were simply surf instructors.

In reality, they preserved Hawaiian ocean knowledge through decades of rapid tourism development. And they were highly sociable with the haoles, both men and women.

The nicknames of the original Beach Boys

The original Waikiki Beach Boys of the early 1900s were such distinct personalities that they rarely went by their legal names.

If you walked down the beach in 1930, you wouldn't ask for George or William. You would look for guys named: Steamboat, Turkey, Splash, Colgate (named for his bright, white-toothed smile), Scooter, Panama, etc.

These men were so respected for their ocean safety skills that they eventually transformed from a loose group of local surfers into the Territorial Beach Patrol, laying the foundation for Hawaii's modern professional ocean rescue lifeguards (Honolulu Ocean Safety Department).

Teaching Hollywood royalty (and British royalty) to surf

Because of Waikiki's status as a luxury playground in the 1920s and 1930s, the Beach Boys became the personal instructors to the world's most famous elite.

Duke Kahanamoku personally taught Edward, Prince of Wales (the future King of England) how to surf during a royal visit in 1920.

Legendary Beach Boys like Louis "Steamboat" Mokuahi and Chick Daniels gave private lessons to Hollywood icons like Shirley Temple, Buster Keaton, Douglas Fairbanks, and Amelia Earhart.

You can surf Waikiki in a giant canoe

One of the most unique Waikiki experiences isn't a surfboard at all.

Large outrigger canoes regularly catch and ride Waikiki's rolling waves.

The tradition dates back more than a century and remains a major part of local water culture. Seeing six or more people surfing the same wave in a canoe is still common.

The most crowded lineup in Hawaii may also be one of the friendliest

At breaks like Queens and Canoes, dozens - or sometimes hundreds - of surfers can share the same area.

Yet the mellow nature of the waves encourages a social atmosphere unlike the more competitive lineups found at famous big-wave spots.

Just make sure to respect everyone.

Waikiki's waves are why beginners around the world stand up on their first day

Many surf schools choose Waikiki because the reef creates long, predictable rides.

A wave here can carry a novice surfer much farther than many beach-break waves elsewhere in the world.

That's why countless visitors catch their first wave in Waikiki.

Some of Waikiki's sand came from California

One of the strangest Waikiki facts has little or nothing to do with surfing itself.

The pristine, continuous sandy beach you see today in Waikiki is an illusion. It is largely a massive, multi-decade civil engineering project.

Historically, Waikiki (which translates to "spouting fresh water") was a vast wetland composed of taro fields, fishponds, and meandering streams backed by coconut groves.

In the 1920s, the construction of the Ala Wai Canal drained and diverted the wetlands to clear the path for commercial tourism.

However, the seawalls and structures built to protect the new hotels severely eroded the natural shoreline.

To maintain the tropical fantasy, millions of tons of sand have been systematically shipped, pumped, and imported into Waikiki from other parts of Hawaii (and even from California, such as Manhattan Beach) for over a century.

Waikiki used to be wetlands and taro fields

Before it became a world-famous beach district, much of Waikiki was marshland, fishponds, streams, and taro cultivation.

The surf breaks remained, but the landscape behind them would be almost unrecognizable to today's visitors.

Duke's statue is a modern surf pilgrimage site

The famous bronze statue of Duke Kahanamoku at Waikiki Beach is often draped with flower leis.

Surfers from around the world stop there as a kind of pilgrimage, paying respects to the man many consider the father of modern surfing.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Surfing has always had an uneven relationship with athleticism. Some world champions look like light, agile cheetahs. Others resemble bulls ready to unleash all their energy on an off-the-wall turn at J-Bay.

A few have built careers on explosive power, while others seemed to glide through heats with effortless timing and technique.

For decades, the sport has produced champions of different physique shapes and sizes, leaving a simple question hanging in the air.

Is there such a thing as the ideal surfer body type? Is there an ideal weight and height for surfing? Or could there be a perfectly balanced ratio between the two variables?

We at SurferToday.com are obsessed with what numbers tell us, when they can. Stats can help us understand more about performance, success, and world titles.

A review of height and weight data from all 43 athletes on the 2026 World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour, along with measurements from 27 world champions dating back to the 1960s, offers one of the clearest looks yet at the physiques that reach the top of professional surfing.

We did the math, and the answer is both surprising and revealing. Shall we take a look at it?

The average professional surfer

The 2026 CT features 36 men and 24 women who have reached the pinnacle of professional competitive surfing.

They fought hard from the bottom up to deserve an elite spot in an exclusive club.

Here's the first analysis we can immediately take.

Across the field (25 male surfers and 18 female surfers' data crunched), the average surfer stands 172.9 centimeters tall and weighs 68.7 kilograms.

The average Body Mass Index (BMI) is 22.75.

The numbers place the typical professional surfer squarely in a healthy athletic range.

They are lean, but not exceptionally light. They are strong, but rarely bulky.

Male surfers on the tour average 178.8 centimeters in height and 76.8 kilograms in weight, with an average BMI of 23.99.

Female surfers average 164.8 centimeters and 57.4 kilograms, with an average BMI of 21.03.

The gap between the men and women is substantial (13 centimeters in height and 19 kilograms in weight), but within each group, there is a considerable level of consistency.

Most male surfers cluster between 175 and 182 centimeters tall and weigh between 72 and 81 kilograms.

On the other hand, most female surfers fall between 160 and 170 centimeters and weigh between 52 and 62 kilograms.

For a sport often associated with freedom, individuality, and technical skills, elite pro surfing turns out to have a surprisingly narrow physical profile.

Height and weight move together

However, the strongest pattern in the data is not height, weight, or BMI by themselves.

Instead, it is the relationship between height and weight.

Among all current CT surfers, the correlation between height and weight reaches 0.94 on the Pearson scale, where 1.0 represents a perfect relationship.

The Pearson scale is a way of measuring the strength and direction of a linear relationship between two variables, ranging from -1 (perfect negative correlation) to +1 (perfect positive correlation), with 0 meaning no linear correlation.

It answers the question: how tightly do height and weight move together?

In practical terms, taller surfers almost always weigh more, and shorter surfers almost always weigh less.

The pattern remains strong when men and women are analyzed separately. The correlation is 0.89 among men and 0.85 among women.

So, professional surfers may vary in size, but they tend to maintain similar proportions.

A regression for our data reveals the answer to another question: how much does weight change when height increases by 1 cm?

The connection is so strong that a simple formula describes much of the tour:

Weight (kg) = 1.21 × Height (cm) - 140

According to that relationship, each additional centimeter of height corresponds to roughly 1.2 kilograms of body weight.

In other words, among elite surfers, weight increases slightly more than proportionally with height, at about 1.21 kilograms for each additional centimeter.

Or even simpler: taller surfers in this dataset carry proportionally more mass, not just slightly more.

The BMI sweet spot

BMI is an imperfect tool. It cannot distinguish muscle from fat, and elite athletes often expose its limitations.

Still, it provides a useful way to compare large groups. And the CT reveals a remarkably tight range.

The median BMI is 23.15. Half of all surfers fall between 21.38 and 24.26.

That narrow window suggests that professional surfing rewards a specific balance between body mass and mobility.

Too little mass can make paddling and power generation more difficult. Too much mass can make rapid direction changes harder.

The athletes competing at the highest level appear to settle naturally into a middle ground. Does that sound surprising? Maybe yes, maybe not.

The champions are not what many people expect

If there were an ideal surfer body, world champions would probably reveal it. Yet the champions tell a different story.

We looked at data from 27 male and female world surfing champions.

The average world champion in the dataset stands 173.9 centimeters tall and weighs 70 kilograms, with an average BMI of 23.05.

Those figures are almost identical to the averages found on today's Championship Tour. Interesting, isn't it?

Champions are only about one centimeter taller and 1.3 kilograms heavier than the modern tour average.

The difference is so small that it is difficult to argue that champions possess a unique physical advantage.

The numbers suggest that elite performance is not reserved for athletes with exceptional height or exceptional size.
A wide range of winners

Some champions fit the classic image of a compact, explosive surfer.

Tom Carroll stood 169 centimeters tall and weighed about 69 kilograms.

Italo Ferreira measures 168 centimeters and weighs 68 kilograms.

Caitlin Simmers, one of the newest world champions, stands 158 centimeters and weighs 52 kilograms.

Others occupy the opposite end of the spectrum.

John John Florence stands 185 centimeters tall.

Sunny Garcia competed at roughly 91 kilograms.

Stephanie Gilmore, an eight-time world champion, stands 178 centimeters tall, making her one of the tallest women ever to dominate the sport.

The spread is enormous.

World champion heights range from 158 centimeters to 185 centimeters - that's 27 centimeters.

World champion weights range from 52 kilograms to 91 kilograms - that's 39 kilograms.

Therefore, the numbers alone challenge the idea that surfing favors one body type.

The champion envelope

Although champions come in many forms, they still tend to gather within a broad athletic zone.

Most male champions fall between 170 and 183 centimeters in height and weigh between 65 and 80 kilograms.

Most female champions stand between 163 and 178 centimeters and weigh between 55 and 70 kilograms.

Within those ranges, there is room for very different approaches to surfing.

Some athletes rely on explosive turns and aerial maneuvers. Others build careers around power, rail work, wave selection, or technical precision.

The body types vary; the ability to win remains.

Why surfing is different

Many sports reward a clear physical advantage.

For instance, basketball favors height, gymnastics rewards compactness, and rowing tends to favor larger athletes.

Surfing appears to resist that kind of sorting.

One of the reasons is that the wave does not care how tall a surfer is. It does not measure arm span or leg length.

Conditions change every day, often every hour.

A surfer who excels in powerful reef breaks may look very different from a surfer who thrives in small beach break conditions.

The data reflects that reality.

So, there is no obvious height that produces champions, and there is no obvious weight that produces champions.

What emerges instead is a preference for balance.

Professional surfers tend to carry enough mass to paddle efficiently and generate power while remaining light enough to react quickly and move freely across a wave face.

That balance appears far more important than any specific number on a scale or tape measure.

For decades, surf culture has celebrated individuality.

The statistics suggest that the sport still does. Even at the highest level, there is more than one way to build a world champion.

The difference could be in the way you ride the barrel, take it to the air, or get the most out of a shoulder-high wall of saltwater.

Or ultimately, in the way a surfer in a heat reads and picks the best wave.

And that won't probably change in the future.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

In the 21st century, the surfing world witnessed several ways of generating a rideable wave outside the ocean.

However, for decades, artificial wave technology has followed a familiar formula.

Someone builds a giant pool, installs complex machinery, moves enormous volumes of water, and creates a wave where no ocean exists.

A Russian company called Surfinity is taking a different path.

Instead of constructing a purpose-built surf lagoon, the company has developed a system designed to turn existing lakes, reservoirs, and artificial water bodies into surf destinations.

The technology relies on a moving device that generates waves as it travels across the water, creating a setup that looks less like a traditional wave pool and more like a cross between a cable park and a surfing reef.

Surfinity shares a similar background with Finland's very own Artwave, one of the smartest, least expensive, most compact, and most mobile wave-generation systems on the planet.

SurferToday.com tested it and enjoyed the ride, somewhere in a forest in the middle of the Nordic country.

Now, Surfinity seems to be moving the same way and beyond the drawing board.

The firm already operates a surf park near Moscow and says its technology can be installed almost anywhere in the world where suitable water conditions exist.

Shall we see how it works?

A wave created by motion

At the center of the system is a hydrodynamic device known as a "plow." Yes, you read it well - a plow.

The plow travels along a cable stretched between two stations positioned at opposite ends of the riding area.

As it moves, the plow pushes water aside and creates two symmetrical wake waves, one on each side of its path.

The effect resembles the wake generated by a boat, although Surfinity's system is designed to produce the waves continuously along a fixed route.

The company says the plow travels in a straight line from one end of the riding zone to the other.

When it reaches the end, it slows down, stops briefly, then accelerates back in the opposite direction and repeats the cycle.

It's the motion of surf.

The setup consists of a motor station, a return station, a cable connecting the two, and the plow itself.

Compared with many modern surf park technologies, the mechanical layout is relatively simple.

Two different surf experiences

Surfinity produces what it describes as two distinct types of waves.

The first are wake waves, which form directly behind the moving plow. These waves are similar to those ridden in wakesurfing, where a surfer rides the wake behind a boat.

The difference is that Surfinity creates two waves at the same time, allowing riders on both sides of the plow's path.

The second are breaking waves. They appear when the wake reaches specially shaped shallow areas near the shoreline.

As the water encounters the changing depth, the wave steepens and begins to break in a way that resembles ocean surf.

Surfers can paddle, catch the wave, and ride it much like they would at a beach break.

According to the company, designing the underwater contours correctly is a critical part of the system.

Artificial lakes offer an advantage because the bottom profile can be shaped specifically to improve wave performance.

But you might not need that much human intervention.

Long rides without a wave pool

One of Surfinity's most striking claims involves ride length.

The company says its waves can extend between 985 and 1640 feet (300 and 500 meters), with wave heights reaching up to four feet (1.5 meters). It also advertises rides lasting around 60 seconds under suitable conditions.

At its operating site in Borshchyovo, northwest of Moscow, Surfinity promotes what it calls the longest artificial surfing wave in Russia, measuring approximately 983 feet (300 meters).

The numbers place the system in a unique position within the surf park market.

Many modern wave pools focus on producing highly repeatable, high-performance waves that last only a few seconds.

Surfinity instead emphasizes longer rides generated across a much larger stretch of water.

And that could be extremely cool and appealing to most recreational surfers.

A different approach to artificial waves

The global surf park industry has expanded rapidly since 2015.

Companies such as Wavegarden and American Wave Machines have developed sophisticated systems capable of generating hundreds of waves per hour and a wide variety of wave shapes.

They built facilities that often rely on hydraulic, pneumatic, or electromechanical systems housed within specially constructed lagoons.

Surfinity follows a different engineering philosophy.

Rather than moving water across an entire pool, it creates a traveling wake and allows the surrounding environment to shape that energy into surfable waves.

The result is a system that can use existing water bodies and requires a much narrower footprint than many conventional surf parks.

The company lists a minimum water area of roughly 985 by 165 feet (300 by 50 meters), with an optimal size of about 1310 by 165 feet (400 by 50 meters).

The Russian wavemakers say installations can operate in lakes, artificial reservoirs, rivers, and sheltered coastal inlets. And they only need two weeks to get it up and pumping.

Again, in a way similar to Artwave.

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Capacity, power, and economics

Surfinity says its system can generate up to 600 waves per hour and accommodate between 14 and 50 riders per hour, depending on site conditions and wave configuration.

Energy consumption is listed at approximately 100 kilowatt-hours (kWh).

The company argues that the design offers lower operating costs than many competing surf technologies because it uses electric power, requires less maintenance than boats, and does not depend on large hydraulic or pneumatic infrastructure.

Surfinity also claims operating expenses can be significantly lower than comparable systems, although independent verification of those figures is not publicly available.

The business model is aimed at surf parks, hotels, recreation centers, resorts, and waterfront developments seeking to add a surfing attraction without building a conventional wave pool.

Built by surfers

The origins of the project trace back to 2010.

According to the company, the idea emerged after its founders launched what they describe as Moscow's first wakesurf club.

Looking for a way to reduce the costs associated with boat-based surfing, they began developing a dedicated wave-generating system that could reproduce surfable waves without relying on towboats.

The resulting technology is described by the company as patented.

The team also operates surfing businesses beyond Russia, including a Bali-based surf school that dates back to 2008.

Can they make it into the highly competitive wave pool industry?

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

For years, surfers arriving at San Francisco's Ocean Beach could count on seeing Sandro Ricardo Britz in the lineup.

Friends say he was the kind of person whose name came up almost anywhere along the beach.

Sandro was a longtime Sunset District resident, an experienced surfer originally from Brazil, and a familiar face in one of California's most demanding surf communities.

Now, the lineup is missing one of its regulars.

Britz, 55, died after a rescue at Ocean Beach on May 28.

His death has prompted an outpouring of grief across San Francisco's surfing community, where friends, neighbors, and fellow surfers have remembered him as a constant presence in the water and a deeply valued friend on shore.

"He was a decades-long Bay Area surfer and resident," Pam Morse wrote while sharing a fundraiser for his family.

"Always charging, always a light in the lineup."

Distress signals in heavy surf

The incident unfolded around 1:20 pm near Lincoln Way at Ocean Beach.

According to the San Francisco Fire Department, an off-duty National Park Service lifeguard who was surfing nearby and three on-duty National Park Service Ocean Rescue lifeguards noticed a surfer waving both hands above his head, a recognized distress signal, just outside the surf line.

At roughly the same time, firefighters received reports of a surfer in trouble.

The lifeguards immediately swam toward the surfer, later identified as Britz. When they reached him, they found him face down, unconscious, and not breathing.

"Upon reaching the distressed surfer, the lifeguards found an adult surfer who was face down, unconscious, and not breathing," the fire department said.

The rescuers began lifesaving efforts in the water while bringing Britz back to shore.

San Francisco Fire Department paramedics continued advanced life support treatment on the beach before transporting him to a local hospital in critical condition.

Despite those efforts, Britz was later pronounced dead.

The San Francisco Fire Department released videos and photographs showing the extensive rescue response.

Questions remain about the cause of death

Authorities have not released Britz's official cause of death.

Several reports have stated that investigators were examining whether a medical emergency may have occurred before he became unresponsive in the water.

Possibilities mentioned in reports included a cardiac event.

Britz's friend Ayrton Sobral, who was surfing nearby that day, said he did not believe drowning caused his death.

"His wife told me that they did not find water in his lungs, so he had a stroke that put him out," Sobral told KRON4.

Officials have not confirmed that account, and the incident remains under investigation.

The National Park Service told The Post that the case was still being investigated.

Ocean Beach at its most challenging

Ocean Beach has long carried a reputation as one of California's most difficult and unpredictable surf spots.

The National Park Service warns that the beach's powerful rip currents and changing conditions can pull people offshore. The agency says swimming at Ocean Beach is never safe.

Conditions on May 28 were especially severe.

A rare late spring west swell had pushed into Northern California, generating powerful double overhead surf more commonly associated with winter.

The larger swell intensified Ocean Beach's already complex sandbars, strong currents, and shifting peaks.

Overall conditions were extremely rough.

The National Weather Service had also issued a beach hazards statement for San Francisco and nearby coastal areas, warning of strong rip currents and sneaker waves.

San Francisco Fire Department spokesperson Jonathan Baxter described the ocean as turbulent and unusually aggressive.

"We have large waves coming in very quickly, almost to the point where it looks like a washing machine cycle," Baxter said.

Even among experienced surfers, Ocean Beach commands respect.

Friends noted that Britz knew the break well and had spent years navigating its constantly changing conditions.

A life built around the ocean

Those who knew Britz say his connection to Ocean Beach ran much deeper than recreation.

Sobral said the two men spent years sharing sessions in the cold Pacific.

"If you walk here on the beach and talk to anyone, somebody knows him," Sobral said.

"He's that kind of guy who loved to be here at Ocean Beach. We tried to live in the water as much as we could. Water was our place."

Friends described Britz as someone who understood Ocean Beach's moods and dangers better than most. He was regarded as a regular, a surfer whose presence became part of the beach break's rhythm.

Photos on his Facebook profile show him surfing Ocean Beach as far back as 2009.

After news of his death spread, friends filled his social media pages with messages of disbelief and remembrance.

"Oh, my surf buddy," one friend wrote. "I'm not prepared for this."

"I am very sorry for your departure. I (had) the pleasure of being your friend," another posted.

One longtime friend wrote, "I can't believe we talked on Tuesday and you left without warning, but doing what you loved to do most, going down your last wave, rest in peace."

Another added, "See you soon on the other side, brother! Light in the room!"

Others remembered narrowly missing the scene that day.

"I missed you guys by minutes. I was hoping those trucks weren't for either of you. Godspeed and good waves."

A love story that began in Brazil

Beyond surfing, friends have focused on the life Britz built with his wife, Michele.

According to a GoFundMe page created to support her, the couple met in Brazil 14 years ago and fell in love there before building a life together in San Francisco.

"They have been inseparable ever since, working side by side and supporting each other through every challenge," the fundraiser says.

The couple operated a housecleaning business together and cared for their three dogs.

The fundraiser describes Britz as "beloved by his friends, neighbors, and the surfing community."

It also says, "Sandro was Michele's love, her rock, her North Star."

Following his death, the fundraiser was established to help cover funeral expenses, living costs, and the care of the couple's pets as Michele navigates life without her husband.

Donations quickly began to pour in. The campaign raised more than $30,000.

Surfers, we have a problem. Or maybe more than one, but let's address the fundamental one first. What if it's just getting so crowded at our local beaches, it's just not worth it anymore?

Yes, I belong to a group of lucky surfers who live near a coastline blessed with plenty of favorable swells and quality waves.

For that, I present my sincere apologies as I speak from a place of privilege.

However, every coin has two sides, and despite the number of amazing waves and peaks that I can count within half an hour of driving from my flat, it's also true that most of them - over 85 percent - are crowded all year round.

And by crowded, I mean counting over 30 surfers per beach break peak.

You could say, "Go surfing at 7 am." I know, I've done that and... it's full of like-minded water people.

"Then, do it on weekdays." True and the same apples. It's unbelievably crowded.

"Have you tried surfing at dawn?" Sure thing. I did it even on winter days, and humans are there for the same reason I am.

I've been witnessing this phenomenon worsen from 2010 to the present.

I don't have a 100 percent correct explanation for it, but I do know that surfing's popularity has gone through the roof.

I am sure there are a few factors that play against the quality of any surfer's sessions, as this is a problem that affects everyone.

Social media

One of them is the rise of social media.

The photo- and video-sharing era made surfing super cool and appealing, inviting anyone to join the tribe and have their stand-up surfing accomplishments frozen forever on their feeds.

People feel they need to escape screens and have outdoor experiences, only to have them posted online soon after.

We have already written a few words on our very own theory of the evolution of surfing as a purchasable experience. Feel free to agree, partially agree, or disagree.

Low-cost flights

Then, low-cost flights aren't making things easy.

Surfers who live in landlocked nations or near unfavorable swell coastlines can easily get in a plane and travel from Finland (Northern Europe) in the morning to Portugal (Southwestern Europe) and be surfing after lunch in Portugal.

The same applies to the US, Australia, and Asia.

I barely listen to Portuguese-speaking surfers in my home break anymore.

The Olympic Games

Another reason is the Olympic Games. Since surfing became an Olympic sport at Tokyo 2020, it has been exposed to millions of aspiring beginner surfers.

Around Sydney 2000 and Athens 2004, I was also exposed to live coverage of sailing races and got hooked.

So, I have learned to sail, first in a Vaurien boat, and later in an Olympic sailing class, the Laser, now ILCA dinghy.

Paris 2024, with its magnificent Teahupoo wave and the unforgettable Gabriel Medina floating picture, only magnified the world's interest in surfing.

Live broadcasts

Finally, if you trust the World Surf League's (WSL) figures, the 80 million people who got in touch with competitions in 2025 watched content for 20.3 million hours, an increase of 19 percent from 2024.

The WSL finals drew 45 million viewers, and the webcast audience increased by 17 percent year over year.

On average, each event had 2.5 million live viewers.

Pro surfing's yearly broadcast growth is considerable, compared to other popular sports.

Could wave pools release crowd pressure?

No wonder there are more recreational surfers than ever. But there's a catch here.

Quantity is not quality is not quantity. In other words, more surfers mean fewer quality sessions and eventually fewer ridden waves per hour.

While it's great to see more people engaging in surfing and sports in general, surfing requires limited natural resources.

Waves are scarce, and the number of surf breaks is pretty much static.

Unless the democratization of access to wave pools opens new opportunities to all surfers, for instance, in inland towns.

Actually, the advent of artificial waves has also extended the number of people who master the art of riding a rolling wall of fresh or saltwater.

Paradoxically, the only thing that seems to keep surfers out of the water is the growing issue of pollution.

The problem has reached a point where surfers are actually willing to risk their lives and health to paddle out in infected waters.

Is giving up an option?

Anyway, my surfing fix has been putting more and more on hold due to the crowd factor. Every time I check the cams or the beach, I immediately lose interest.

How can I be enjoying myself with 50 people trying desperately to gain priority to ride an average three-to-five-foot wave?

I have tried it many times, and I tend to leave the water more stressed out than when I was still dry, assessing the conditions.

Maybe my time is done, and the lineup is now controlled by first-timers and their portable waterproof cameras.

Should I push myself into it again or surrender to the massification of surfing?

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Along Angola's Atlantic coast, about 75 miles (120 kilometers) south of Luanda, a long arc of sand curves beneath cliffs and rocky headlands.

At the southern end of the bay, a wave wraps around the point and runs for what feels like forever.

Welcome to dreamy Cabo Ledo, home to Praia dos Surfistas (or Surfers' Beach), a place that has become the center of Angolan surfing and one of the most remarkable left-hand point breaks in Africa, alongside Namibia's very own Skeleton Bay.

For decades, surfers have crossed continents searching for long, uncrowded waves. Many eventually hear the same name: Cabo Ledo.

The appeal, you know, is easy to understand.

The wave is consistent, forgiving in many conditions, and capable of producing rides that stretch hundreds of yards down the bay.

Yet it remains connected to a fishing village, a beach camping culture, and a coastline that still feels far removed from the crowds that dominate many famous surf destinations.

How surfing arrived in Angola

The history of surfing in Angola reaches further back than many people realize.

One of the earliest documented surf explorations of the country came in 1973, when American surfer Randy Rarick entered Angola after traveling through southern Africa.

Rarick, who would later become one of the most influential figures in world surfing, explored the Angolan coast during a period when very few surfers had seen its waves.

His journey was later featured in Surfer magazine in 1974 under the title "A Journey into the Past, A Place for the Future."

Looking back, the title seems prophetic. Angola was approaching independence, and its surf potential remained almost entirely unexplored.

That same era would also change the life of Nuno Jonet, often described as one of the founding fathers of Portuguese surfing, alongside Pedro Martins de Lima.

Living in Angola during the early 1970s, Jonet met Rarick and his traveling companions on Luanda's coastline.

After buying a surfboard from them and receiving his first lessons, he became hooked for life. Nuno later helped establish Portuguese surfing institutions and remained one of the sport's leading voices.

Surfing in Angola developed slowly.

The country's long civil war, which lasted from 1975 until 2002, made travel difficult and restricted access to many beaches.

Small groups of surfers continued surfing mainly around Luanda.

By the mid-1990s, surfers such as Sérgio Afonso and Renato Brigham were helping keep the sport alive. At the time, the local surfing community was tiny, numbering only a handful of people.

The modern era of Angolan surfing began after peace returned. The sport was incorporated into the Federação Angolana de Desportos Náuticos (FADEN) in 2012.

Amateur competitions followed in Cabo Ledo in 2013 and 2014, both won by the local Jagas de Cabo Ledo team.

Local surfers such as José Gabriel became symbols of a new generation growing up with the wave at their doorstep.

Today, Cabo Ledo is widely regarded as the cathedral of Angolan surfing.

Where Cabo Ledo sits on the Atlantic Coast

Cabo Ledo lies roughly two to two and a half hours south of Luanda by road.

The beach sits near a fishing village and occupies a strategic position on the South Atlantic coastline. You cannot not notice it. It's stunning from above.

Its geography is a major reason for its quality.

The bay opens toward the northwest, an orientation that allows southern swells traveling across the South Atlantic Ocean to bend into the point and produce long, organized lines.

The surrounding coastline combines cliffs, rocky headlands, sandbanks, and broad sandy beaches. The result is a setup that captures energy from distant storms while protecting parts of the bay from local wind.

From the hills above the beach, the water often appears turquoise.

Below, the coastline forms a natural amphitheater where waves wrap around the point and continue down the length of the bay.

The area is also known for its dramatic scenery.

Sandstone and rocky formations frame the beach, while trails and viewpoints offer wide views of the Atlantic.

Nearby stretches of coast remain sparsely developed and continue to hide numerous surf breaks that receive far less attention than Cabo Ledo.

The wave that made Cabo Ledo famous

At its heart, Cabo Ledo is a left-hand point break.

The wave wraps around the rocky headland at the southern end of the bay and peels toward the north across a sandbank and mixed bottom.

What makes it special is not raw power but length.

On good days, surfers can ride the wave for hundreds of yards. Some descriptions place the longest rides at up to half a mile (800 meters).

Even on ordinary days, rides of 330 to 650 feet (100 to 200 meters) are common.

The wave often produces smooth walls and tapered shoulders that allow surfers to link multiple turns while maintaining speed.

The outside section near the rocks carries the most power and steepness. It's where more experienced surfers tend to position themselves. Further inside, the wave becomes softer and more forgiving.

One unusual characteristic is how the wave approaches the beach. It rolls almost perpendicular to the shoreline and continues across much of the bay.

The layout makes reaching the lineup relatively straightforward compared with many other point breaks.

The bay also produces different wave zones.

The main point break is long, consistent, and relatively mellow. At higher tides, two faster and more advanced sections can develop, offering more challenging conditions for skilled surfers.

The wave is ideal for refining technique. Longboarders, funboard riders, single-fin enthusiasts, and shortboard surfers can all find suitable sections.

It is one of the rare waves where a beginner and an experienced surfer can enjoy the same session while surfing different parts of the break.

Where else in the world can you find that?

Ocean bottom and bathymetry

The shape of the seabed plays a major role in Cabo Ledo's consistency.

The point break forms around a rocky headland, but much of the ride continues across sandbanks.

The combination helps create long, predictable walls while allowing the wave to maintain shape over long distances.

The rocky areas near the takeoff zone generate the wave's initial power. As the wave moves down the line, the sandbanks help shape smoother sections that remain surfable for long periods.

At low tide, rocks become more exposed, making wave selection and positioning more important. Some surfers choose to wear reef booties when entering from the rocks near the point.

Swell patterns and why the wave works so often

Cabo Ledo benefits from its exposure to Southern Hemisphere swell systems.

The most reliable surf arrives between April and October. During this period, powerful storms in the South Atlantic send long-period swells toward Angola.

Swell heights of four to eight feet, with periods of around 15 seconds, are common during the peak season.

Southern and southwest swells are particularly effective. The coastline's orientation allows these swells to wrap into the bay and organize into long, clean lines.

Between June and September, larger southwest swells associated with Angola's calema season can produce stronger surf and more powerful conditions.

During these episodes, Cabo Ledo reveals another side of its personality. The wave becomes faster, larger, and more demanding.

Even outside the prime season, surf remains available throughout the year. Local surfers know that Cabo Ledo has rideable waves every month, and they make sure to have fun and improve their craft.

Wind conditions

Wind is one of the factors that help define the daily rhythm of surfing in Cabo Ledo.

The dominant winds generally blow from the south and southwest. These winds often strengthen from around mid-morning onward, making early sessions the preferred choice.

Morning conditions are frequently clean and glassy. As the day progresses, wind can add texture to exposed sections of the coastline.

One advantage of Cabo Ledo is the protection offered by the headland.

Parts of the inside section remain relatively sheltered even when southwest and west onshore winds affect surrounding areas.

The unique (and rare) protection helps extend surfable conditions deeper into the day than at many neighboring beaches.

Tides and currents

The tidal range along this stretch of Angola's coast is relatively modest and generally remains below five feet.

Many surfers prefer mid to high tide on the point break. At these levels, the wave develops smoother walls and the rocky sections become less exposed.

Low tide can still be surfable, but more rocks appear around the takeoff zone, and certain sections become shallower.

As swell size increases, currents become more noticeable. Large swells can generate powerful rips around the point.

Experienced surfers often use these currents to return to the peak more efficiently, while less experienced visitors should remain cautious and surf with others.

Who can surf Cabo Ledo?

One reason for Cabo Ledo's enduring popularity is its accessibility.

Beginners can find suitable conditions in the inside bay, where smaller waves and whitewater provide an ideal learning environment.

A bit like in some wave pools.

Visitors feel that this is one of the easiest places in Angola to learn how to surf because waves arrive in steady succession and the beach offers simple access.

Intermediate surfers often find the greatest rewards here. The long walls provide ample opportunity to practice trimming, positioning, turns, and wave reading.

Advanced surfers tend to focus on the outside sections, particularly when larger southwest swells arrive; sections offer greater speed, power, and performance potential.

Local surfers frequently describe Cabo Ledo as a wave that welcomes everyone. And that inclusiveness has become one of the defining traits of the lineup.

Water and air temperatures

The climate remains warm throughout the year.

Air temperatures commonly reach around 86 °F (30 °C), while daytime conditions during the dry season often range between 68 °F and 82 °F (20 °C and 28 °C).

Water temperatures generally fluctuate between 66 °F and 75 °F (19 °C and 24 °C), although some reports place seasonal highs around 79 °F (26 °C). Ocean currents and swell activity can influence temperatures from week to week.

Most surfers are comfortable in a 3/2 mm wetsuit during cooler periods or a 2/2 mm shorty during warmer conditions. Some choose to surf in boardshorts during the warmest months.

Long sessions are common because the wave is so inviting, making sun protection essential.

A surf hat and strong sunscreen are often more important than extra neoprene.

The local surf culture

Surfing in Cabo Ledo is deeply connected to the local community.

Many of the area's young surfers grew up watching visitors ride the point and eventually learned themselves.

Surfers such as António Diogo and José Gabriel represent a generation that transformed curiosity into skill through daily exposure to the ocean.

The beach is also home to bodyboarders, skimboarders, kitesurfers, stand-up paddleboarders, and longboarders. Water sports are part of daily life rather than a separate activity reserved for tourists.

Organizations such as Kalemba Radical have used board sports as social tools.

The project began more than a decade ago with the goal of helping young people avoid crime, drugs, and other risks by introducing them to sport and nature.

Environmental awareness is another important aspect of local surf culture.

Surfers and community leaders regularly emphasize beach conservation, ocean protection, and respect for wildlife, including sea turtles that nest along parts of Angola's coastline.

Beach rules and etiquette

Part of Cabo Ledo's appeal comes from a shared effort to preserve the atmosphere.

Local stakeholders have established simple rules that help keep the beach clean and peaceful.

Visitors are encouraged not to light fires on the sand, not to play loud music, not to use generators or bright electric lighting, and to remove all rubbish when they leave.

In the water, standard surf etiquette applies. Respect the surfer already riding a wave, avoid dropping in, and be aware of local surfers.

The lineup is generally friendly.

Even on busy weekends, Cabo Ledo remains far less crowded than many famous surf destinations elsewhere in the world.

Getting there

Most visitors travel from Luanda, the country's capital.

The usual route follows the EN100 coastal highway south. Along the way, travelers pass landmarks such as Barra do Kwanza and the famous Miradouro da Lua.

After leaving the main road, the final section follows an unpaved track toward Cabo Ledo village and Praia dos Surfistas.

Driving time is typically between two and two and a half hours, depending on traffic and road conditions.

During the dry season, standard vehicles can usually manage the route, while four-wheel drive becomes more useful during rainy periods.

Fuel should be purchased before leaving Luanda, as services near the beach remain limited.

Where to stay

Accommodation options have expanded significantly over the years, but camping remains the classic Cabo Ledo experience.

Many visitors arrive with tents, surfboards, coolers, and supplies for a weekend by the sea.

Beach camping has become a tradition among surfers from Luanda and beyond.

Basic guesthouses are available around the village, while small eco-lodges and surf-oriented accommodations have appeared in recent years.

More comfortable options also exist, including resorts along the coastline.

The best-known properties cater to travelers seeking additional comfort without sacrificing proximity to the surf.

Despite these developments, Cabo Ledo still feels more rustic than polished. That remains part of its charm.

If you need additional information, rentals, or surf lessons, contact the local Kiamba Surf School and Eco Carpe Diem.

What to do beyond surfing

The surf may be the headline attraction, but it is not the only reason people come.

Fishing remains central to local life. Visitors can watch wooden boats launch through the surf at dawn and return later with fresh catches.

Beachside shacks often grill fish directly from the day's haul.

The surrounding cliffs offer excellent hiking and photography opportunities. At sunset, the rocky formations glow in shades of gold and red.

Wildlife enthusiasts can explore nearby coastal habitats and river systems. The nearby Kwanza region supports birdlife that includes herons, kingfishers, and other coastal species.

Adventure seekers can explore dunes, climb rocky formations, and wander along long stretches of undeveloped shoreline.

The landscape retains a sense of openness that has disappeared from many surf destinations around the world.

Even for non-surfers, Cabo Ledo offers something increasingly rare: space, quiet, and a close connection to the Atlantic Ocean.

Praia dos Surfistas | The X-Ray

Location: Cabo Ledo, Angola
GPS Coordinates: -9.678244668728464, 13.200355581310026
Wave Size Range: 2-8 Feet
Swell Direction: S/SW
Bottom Type: Sand
Wave Direction: Left
Tides: Low, Mid, High
Wind Direction: Light SE
Water Temperature: - °F (19-25 °C)
Best Months: April-October (Dry Season)
Hazards: Currents

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

A few miles north of downtown Asheville, heavy machinery now sits in the middle of the French Broad River.

Concrete forms rise from exposed bedrock. Circular walls of rock and steel push the river aside. Locals stop on bridges to stare at what looks, at first glance, like a strange industrial accident.

It is actually one of the most ambitious river surfing projects ever attempted on the East Coast of the United States.

The feature is called Taylor's Wave, a human-made standing wave under construction in Woodfin that is expected to draw kayakers, river surfers, boogie boarders, and freestyle paddlers from across the country.

The project has been in development for nearly a decade.

Engineers have modeled it in a Prague hydraulics laboratory. Environmental consultants studied fish migration routes and flood elevations. Local officials rebuilt park plans around it.

The wave itself is being shaped directly into one of the oldest rivers on Earth.

The goal is simple enough to explain: to create a surfable standing wave in a river that flows year-round.

However, the execution has been anything but simple. Let's learn more about this unique whitewater wave.

A river wide enough to matter

The French Broad is an unusual river for this kind of project. It is broad, deep, and relatively steady through the seasons.

Most rivers in the Southern Appalachians are either too shallow, too steep, or too inconsistent to support a permanent surfable wave.

Back in 2016, longtime paddler Marc Hunt and Olympic kayaker Scott Shipley floated stretches of the river looking for a possible location.

Shipley, founder of the Colorado-based engineering firm S2O Design and Engineering, immediately recognized the potential of the Woodfin site.

The river had enough gradient to create a drop.

Flows remained reliable through much of the year, and existing park access sat nearby.

One other thing caught their attention, though: a large landfill pressed against the riverbank.

That landfill turned out to be one of the reasons the project became possible. Adding a structure to a river can raise upstream flood levels.

Engineers realized that removing part of the old landfill could offset some of the hydraulic impact created by the wave itself.

It also solved an environmental problem, as floodplains and landfills rarely coexist peacefully over the long term.

The Town of Woodfin embraced the idea and eventually folded Taylor's Wave into the much larger Woodfin Greenway and Blueway project, a riverfront redevelopment effort now valued at roughly $30 million to $34 million.

The broader plan includes greenways, beaches, river access points, expanded park space, habitat restoration, and public gathering areas. 

Construction contracts for Taylor's Wave were signed in June 2024. But it would take time for the dream to see the light of reality.

The science of a perfect wave

Standing river waves look natural, but the best ones are intensely engineered.

At Taylor's Wave, designers first created a detailed digital model of the riverbed using laser-scanned topographic surveys.

The scans captured submerged bedrock, shoreline contours, and even the remains of old bridge pylons sitting in the river.

Then the project moved to the hydraulics laboratory at the Czech Technical University, considered one of the world's leading facilities for whitewater feature testing.

There, engineers built a precise 1:30 scale replica of the river section.

Pumps circulated water through the model at varying flow rates, matching real conditions on the French Broad.

Designers spent more than twelve days actually shaving surfaces, repositioning elements, adding material, and refining the shape.

Shipley compared the process to tuning a Formula 1 car in a wind tunnel.

The structure itself acts like a giant underwater ledge. It compresses the river's flow into a narrower slot, increasing speed and creating a hydraulic jump, the standing pile of water that surfers ride.

The wave has been designed to work across multiple river levels rather than at one perfect flow.

At roughly 950 cubic feet per second (cfs), the wave appears smooth and green, with an open face stretching nearly twenty feet wide.

Around 1,100 to 1,200 cfs, the lip begins to break.

Designers say the "sweet spot" sits between roughly 2,000 and 2,250 cfs, when the center steepens, and clean shoulders form on either side.

"It was real even and both shoulders were spinning tightly," Shipley said during one of the project videos.

"That's where you can start working on all the different hole moves going either direction."

For kayakers, those conditions could support advanced freestyle tricks; for surfers, lower flows may create a more forgiving standing wave suitable for surfboards and bodysurfing.

Marc Hunt told Asheville Watchdog that medium and higher flows will likely favor expert kayakers because of the steepness and power of the feature.

Lower flows should produce a cleaner face for stand-up surfing and bodyboarding. 

The adjustable piece hidden underwater

One discovery in Prague changed the project significantly.

Engineers found that placing a movable concrete plate on the face of the low-flow channel dramatically improved the wave shape.

Shifting the plate slightly altered the steepness, speed, and breaking pattern of the feature.

The final design now includes stainless steel tracks embedded into the structure so the plate can later be repositioned or replaced.

The adjustments will not happen casually.

Workers would need to temporarily divert water and bring machinery into the river to move the massive slab.

But the flexibility gives the project something unusual in river surfing: tunability.

Most river waves are fixed forever once construction ends, but Taylor's Wave was designed with future tweaking in mind.

Building inside a river

The current phase of construction looks dramatic because much of it happens directly inside the river channel.

Workers first built a cofferdam, a temporary circular barrier that diverts river flow around a dry work area. Pumps remove trapped water inside the enclosure so crews can excavate the bedrock beneath.

The ledge structure is being built in stages. Once one side is complete, the cofferdam shifts to the opposite side of the river.

Recent reporting described crews drilling patterns into bedrock before fracturing it with jackhammers and excavators.

The final structure will combine natural boulders from a nearby quarry with concrete grout anchoring the materials into place.

Hurricane Helene complicated the timeline in late 2025, though the project survived with relatively limited damage.

Marc Hunt said the flood mainly caused delays tied to engineering reviews, contractor scheduling, and recovery work throughout the region.

Construction regained momentum in early 2026.

Local paddlers have already begun posting sneak peeks online as portions of the structure emerge from the water.

One of the early reports of the first water bumps in action described the unfinished feature at roughly 1,800 cfs as "a small glassy wave at very low flows, beefing up into a small wave hole at normal flows before it becomes a big breaking wave at high flows."

Not bad for a start.

Fish, floods, and the oldest river

The environmental side of the project has been almost as complex as the surfing side.

The French Broad River flows through the Southern Blue Ridge region, one of the most biologically diverse temperate ecosystems in the world.

The watershed upstream of Woodfin remains relatively intact compared to many major American rivers, with few dams interrupting aquatic movement.

Designers knew they could not simply build a recreational obstacle across the channel.

One side of Taylor's Wave includes a fish passage system developed with input from fish migration specialist Ashley Ficke of GEI Consultants.

The bypass uses natural stone, riffle-style channels, and carefully positioned boulders that reduce water velocity and create resting zones for migrating species.

The project also had to account for Craggy Dam, located less than a mile downstream.

Environmental groups and local agencies have explored the possibility of eventually removing the dam, which could alter water levels around the wave site.

Engineers modeled those scenarios and concluded that any future adjustments should remain manageable.

Federal and state agencies heavily scrutinized the permitting process, including the United States Army Corps of Engineers, wildlife agencies, and floodplain regulators.

According to project leaders, the extensive modeling and environmental review helped the project move through approvals with relatively few setbacks.

A surf spot in the mountains

For decades, western North Carolina paddlers dreamed about having a true park and play feature close to Asheville.

The nearest major whitewater parks required long drives. Ocean surfers had even fewer options.

That geography may soon change.

Taylor's Wave is expected to open sometime in 2026, though weather and river conditions still affect the schedule.

If the finished feature performs the way engineers hope, Woodfin could become one of the few places in the eastern United States where surfers and kayakers line up together for rides on the same wave.

The project's name honors Taylor Hunt, a highly regarded young paddler who died in a whitewater accident in Ecuador in 2015 at age 22.

Friends and family describe him as deeply connected to rivers and the paddling community.

Marc Hunt, his father, called the project "simply people honoring and loving a river." 

May Taylor's Wave bring joy to many and progress to Woodfin, a small town that believes more in the power of watersports than many other larger and richer communities with additional resources, but with a lack of vision.

Have you ever witnessed waves being created? Probably not, right? But there are simple ways to simulate ocean wave generation at home or outdoors. Here are a few methods that will impress children and adults alike.

Maybe you already know that most of the water waves we see in large bodies like oceans, seas, and lakes are caused by wind or by a mechanical displacement of water generated, for instance, by a landslide or paddles installed in a wave pool.

But have you ever seen the birth of a wave in a small space or controlled environment? We're talking about an even smaller scale than the backyard wave pools people once built.

There are many ways to explain the creation of a wave in a lab-type context to kids and to adults who have never quite understood how this magical phenomenon brings walls of water to the coastline.

SurferToday.com imagined a few experiments you could set up at home or in a garden. Shall we produce a few waves?

1. Jump rope or garden hose: the classic wave demonstration

A jump rope of garden hose stretched across a yard can stand in for a cross-section of the sea. A quick flick of the wrist sends a wave down its length.

The motion looks simple, but it carries the same structure as an ocean swell.

Each section of rope moves up and down while the pattern moves forward. That separation between motion and travel is what makes waves distinct from simple flowing currents.

Changing how fast you flick the rope changes the spacing of the wave, much like wind speed affects ocean swell size.

It's actually energy traveling, not the rope itself.

If two people hold the rope at each end, you can also see reflection. A wave reaches the end, bounces back, and overlaps with incoming motion.

In the ocean, similar interactions shape messy, shifting surfaces near rocks and cliffs.

With this experiment, you can demonstrate amplitude (height of the wave), frequency (how fast you shake it), and wavelength (distance between peaks).

2. Water bowl or basin: the ripple waves

A shallow bowl of water turns small actions into clear circles.

For instance, a fingertip tap or a single drop breaks the still surface. Rings spread outward, thinning as they travel before fading when they reach the edges of the container.

A soft drop makes gentle rings; a heavier tap sends sharper lines across the surface. Try it.

Floating bits of pepper or crumbs can make the motion easier to see. They bob rather than drift, marking the passing energy like buoys on a shifting sea.

You may also try rocking a wider basin or container gently from side to side. The water begins to slosh in long, smooth motions.

At first, the movement feels disorganized, but then something changes: the water starts to move in rhythm with the container.

Each push adds energy at the right moment, and the wave grows. It's an example of how ocean swells form under steady wind.

Timing matters more than force, though. If you stop suddenly, the water keeps moving for a while. The lingering motion shows how waves carry energy even after the original force is gone.

3. Slinky: the longitudinal and transverse waves

Now, here's one of the best dual-purpose wave tools. You'll just need a slinky toy or a long spring.

How to do it?

To simulate a transverse wave (perpendicular motion), stretch the slinky across the floor, and move one end side-to-side or up-and-down. You'll watch waves travel along the spring.

For the longitudinal wave (compressions in the same direction), push and pull the slinky forward and backward. You'll see compressions and rarefactions travel along it.

The experiment will let you see energy transfer through a medium.

Extra, extra: have one person create waves while another "blocks" or reflects them at the other end.

4. A speaker plus rice or salt: the sound waves

Here's a powerful visual for something usually invisible.

Get a speaker, a phone/laptop, plastic wrap, a bowl, and rice or salt.

Then, stretch plastic wrap tightly over a bowl or container, put small grains of rice or salt on top, and place a speaker near or under it, carefully.

Ready? Now, play bass-heavy music or low-frequency tones.

You'll "see" that sound is vibration traveling through air.

Different frequencies will create different patterns, and stronger vibrations will create more movement.

Sound waves and ocean waves are similar because they are both mechanical waves that transfer energy through a medium - like air or water - without moving the matter itself.

Cool, isn't it?

5. Chain reaction wave: the domino effect

Time for showing energy transfer clearly.

A row of objects placed closely together can pass motion forward with a single push. Dominoes are the familiar version, though books or blocks work as well.

So, line objects closely together, knock the first one gently, and watch the disturbance travel.

One movement becomes many, each object passing energy to the next.

What stands out is how little travel is needed from each piece. Each object only shifts enough to reach the next.

The pattern continues far beyond the original touch. The line becomes a record of motion, written one small fall at a time.

It's like wave propagation without bulk movement of the medium.

6. Human-made wind: the hairdryer that replicates ocean wave behavior

We saved this one for last. Why? Because it's the closest to generating a real ocean wave.

The ingredients are simple. We will need wind. How do we create it at home? By simply using a hairdryer.

Fill a shallow tray, baking dish, or large bowl with a thin layer of water and place it on a stable surface. You want the water to be still before you begin, almost like a calm sea before the wind arrives.

Turn the hairdryer on its lowest setting and aim it across the surface at a shallow angle, not straight down.

The air should skim the water, not blast it.

At first, the surface will wrinkle into tiny ripples. They are the earliest "wind waves," similar to what happens when a light breeze first touches the ocean.

As you slowly increase the airflow, the pattern changes. The ripples stop being random and begin to align.

You may notice small wavelets forming in one direction, traveling away from the hairdryer.

It shows an important ocean idea.

Wind does not push water evenly; it transfers energy unevenly across the surface, building structure over time.

If you move the hairdryer slightly side to side, you can see interference in real time. Waves overlap, cancel, or combine into larger peaks.

In the ocean, this is what creates uneven surf conditions, where some waves grow while others weaken.

You can also angle the hairdryer farther away so the airflow is weaker and more spread out. The water responds with slower, longer ripples.

Stronger, closer airflow produces choppier, shorter waves, mirroring how offshore winds and gusty conditions shape real sea states and perfect waves for surfers and surfing.

What makes this experiment useful is how clearly it separates cause and effect. The hairdryer never touches the water. It only moves air.

The water reacts by forming patterns that travel across its surface, just like ocean waves responding to wind across open water.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Many surfers know iconic breaks by the shape of their waves, even without the need to see the surrounding scenery.

However, fewer realize some of these places are connected to America's National Marine Sanctuary System, protected ocean places where recreation, wildlife, heritage, and coastal economies meet.

Surfers do not have an abstract idea of what the ocean is.

Instead, they just set up a daily relationship with it that is obviously fundamentally shaped by wind, weather, tides, swell, water quality, wildlife, access, and respect for place.

So it's good to know that the same waters that produce unforgettable rides also support marine life, coastal communities, tourism, research, education, and maritime heritage.

That connection is part of the story behind the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's (NOAA) annual "Get Into Your Sanctuary" campaign and photo contest, which encourages people to discover, experience, and care for national marine sanctuaries.

These astonishing underwater parks protect some of America's most treasured ocean and Great Lakes places while supporting compatible recreation, including surfing, paddling, diving, wildlife watching, boating, fishing, and coastal exploration.

Surf breaks in National Marine Sanctuaries

From Washington state to the Gulf Coast, and from the Great Lakes to the Pacific Islands, the National Marine Sanctuary System protects 18 underwater parks spanning more than 629,000 square miles (1,629,100 square kilometers) of ocean and Great Lakes waters.

That's quite a large area.

Managed by NOAA's Office of National Marine Sanctuaries, these special places conserve nationally significant marine ecosystems, historic shipwrecks, cultural resources, and the wildlife and habitats that make them extraordinary.

Surfers and other ocean users learn that sanctuaries are part of larger living systems.

Kelp forests, coral reefs, sandy beaches, rocky shores, tidepools, seamounts, seabirds, whales, fish, and coastal communities are all part of the bigger story.

National marine sanctuaries are inextricably connected to surfing.

Some of the most recognizable surf spots in the United States are found in or connected to these protected places.

Maybe you've surfed them and never realized you were in sacred waters. The examples below include a few well-known and emerging breaks and surf coastlines.

Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary

Banzai Pipeline: Oahu, Hawaii

Pipeline, or just Pipe, is the iconic break on Oahu's North Shore and attracts worldwide surfers with its Pacific Ocean swells and blue, perfect barrels. The wave breaks over a shallow reef and is surely one of the most powerful - and most deadly - surf spots in the world.

Waimea Bay: Oahu, Hawaii

The scenic spot hosts an international big wave contest to honor the memory of Waimea Bay surfing legend, lifeguard, and waterman, Eddie Aikau.

Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary

Mavericks: Half Moon Bay, California

The infamous wave rumbles off the coast of California's Half Moon Bay, rising as high as 50 feet (15 meters) when conditions are right. Fierce currents, shallow rocks, sharks, and bone-chilling water temperatures pose a daunting test for even the most intrepid big wave surfers.

Steamer Lane: Santa Cruz, California

Northern California surfing pioneers like Jack O'Neill made Steamer Lane a hub of innovation starting in the late 1950s, giving rise to the modern wetsuit and board leash. While other waves surpass it in size and power, it remains one of the most popular and legendary surf peaks on the West Coast.

Pleasure Point: Santa Cruz, California

A classic Eastside Santa Cruz break, Pleasure Point is known for long-peeling reef and point-break waves, year-round consistency, and a surf culture that runs deep. With takeoff zones stretching from First Peak toward 38th Avenue, the area offers a range of waves depending on swell and season, from relaxed longboard walls to more powerful sections when conditions line up.

Greater Farallones Area

Ocean Beach: San Francisco, California

Miles of beach break surf near San Francisco offer moody, powerful surf to those up for the challenge of strong currents, cold waters, and year-round exposure to swells from many directions. Ocean Beach is always a tough challenge for any level surfer.

Linda Mar Beach: Pacifica, California

Linda Mar Beach, also known as Pacifica State Beach, is a gorgeous crescent-shaped beach that offers great walking, beachgoing, and surfing. With gentle rolling waves and a broad, sandy beach, it welcomes surfers of all skill levels to ride these waves. You may also take surf lessons from one of the various surf camps that operate here.

Chumash Heritage National Marine Sanctuary

Pismo Beach Pier: Pismo Beach, California

A classic Central Coast beach break, Pismo Beach Pier is one of the most recognizable surf spots along the Chumash Heritage National Marine Sanctuary shoreline. Known for consistent, approachable waves and easy access from downtown Pismo Beach, the pier draws a wide range of surfers, from beginners finding their footing in the whitewater to more experienced riders looking for shapely sandbar peaks when conditions line up. The sanctuary boundary follows the shoreline southeast past Pismo Beach.

Jalama Beach: Lompoc, California

Tucked along a remote stretch of Santa Barbara County coastline, Jalama Beach is a rugged surf destination known for wind, open-ocean exposure, and a wilder Central Coast feel. The beach attracts surfers, anglers, beachcombers, and campers willing to make the drive for powerful waves, wide coastal views, and a sense of escape. Located along the Chumash Heritage National Marine Sanctuary coastline, Jalama also reflects the sanctuary’s broader mix of recreation, marine life, cultural heritage, and coastal connection.

Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary

Here's an important note: several surf spots along the Olympic Coast are on or accessed through Tribal lands.

Visitors should respect Tribal sovereignty, review current access rules, parking, or permit requirements, and follow any Tribal guidance on visitor conduct, filming, and photography before visiting.

First Beach: La Push, Washington

Located on the Quileute Indian Reservation, First Beach is one of the Olympic Coast's well-known surf spots. The surf here is shaped by big Pacific swells, cold water, and the rugged character of Washington's outer coast. Before visiting, surfers should check the Quileute Tribe's current visitor guidance.

Hobuck Beach: Neah Bay, Washington

Located on the Makah Indian Reservation, Hobuck Beach is another well-known Olympic Coast surf spot. NOAA recommends checking wave buoys, tides, and currents before entering the water along this remote and dynamic coastline. The Makah Tribe requires a Makah Recreation Permit for recreational activities, including surfing, and asks visitors to respect tribal culture and designated visitor facilities.

Shi Shi Beach: Olympic National Park, Washington

Shi Shi Beach is a more backcountry surf destination along the Olympic Coast. It offers a remote wilderness surf experience for those prepared for cold water, changing conditions, and a rugged coastal setting. The trail begins on the Makah Reservation and continues into Olympic National Park, so surfers should obtain the required Makah Recreation Pass before arrival and, if staying overnight, an Olympic National Park wilderness permit as well.

Rialto Beach: Olympic National Park, Washington

Rialto Beach offers a rugged Olympic Coast experience, with drive-up access to a wild Pacific shoreline known for massive driftwood logs, dramatic sea stacks, and rich tide pools. Located west of Forks, the beach is better known for scenery than a defined named break, but its exposed coast can draw adventurous surfers prepared for cold water, shifting tides, strong currents, and remote conditions. Hole-in-the-Wall, about 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometers) north of the Rialto Beach trailhead, is a popular low-tide destination for tide pooling.

Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary

Channel Islands: Southern California

The Channel Islands are a chain of offshore islands with rocky reefs and thick kelp beds that hold hidden gems for adventurous, advanced surfers. Protected as both a national park and a national marine sanctuary, these breaks are a remote and rugged surf destination accessible only by boat. Surfing in the Channel Islands is best suited for experienced surfers with strong ocean-safety skills and local knowledge.

Freshwater Surf: Great Lakes Sanctuaries

North Beach: Sheboygan, Wisconsin

On the shore of Lake Michigan, Sheboygan, nicknamed the "Malibu of the Midwest," is one of the best-known freshwater surf communities in the Great Lakes. North Beach is widely recognized as the city's most popular surf spot, with peak surf season running from late August through early April when fall and winter weather bring more consistent wind-driven waves. The waters off Sheboygan are part of Wisconsin Shipwreck Coast National Marine Sanctuary, where cold freshwater surf, working waterfronts, and nationally significant shipwrecks all share the same stretch of lake.

Besser Bell Beach/North Point Nature Preserve: Alpena, Michigan

Along the Lake Huron shoreline of Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary, Alpena's freshwater surf scene is still emerging, but local surfers are helping put the area on the map. Lake Huron surf is less about famous named breaks and more about freshwater stoke, storm-driven waves, and local knowledge. The Thunder Bay Surf Club is a community-focused organization in Michigan's northeast region dedicated to growing Great Lakes surfing on Lake Huron.

National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa

Aunu'u Island: American Samoa

Just southeast of Tutuila, the surf at Aunu'u Island is shaped by exposed reef and point breaks, with left-hand reef and point waves that work best on southwest swell and offshore winds from the east. Conditions are often best around a rising high tide, and winter is generally the most reliable season. Located within the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa, Aunu'u’s surf zone is part of a larger protected seascape known for coral reefs, volcanic islands, Samoan culture, and warm tropical waters. Surfers should use caution around shallow coral and respect local access.

Words by Rachel Plunkett | Content Manager and Senior Writer-Editor at National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)