In this article

• Introduction
• Six Senses Zil Pasyon, Seychelles
• Six Senses Douro Valley, Portugal
• Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, Istanbul
• Final Thoughts
• Book with VIP Perks
• Read More Reviews

Editor’s note: Since my stay, Six Senses Kocataş Mansions has transitioned out of the Six Senses portfolio, although the experience I share here reflects it as I visited.

Introduction

There are very few hotel brands I return to time and time again, but Six Senses is up there at the top of that list for me.

What I find so compelling is that no two properties ever feel the same. Each one reflects its destination so completely, yet still delivers that signature Six Senses balance of wellness, design, sustainability and understated luxury.

The three properties below couldn’t be more different - from a private island in the Seychelles, to a vineyard retreat in Portugal, to a historic mansion setting in Istanbul - and that’s exactly why narrowing this down was so difficult.

Choosing between number one and two was particularly tough. They offer completely different experiences, but the Seychelles will always hold a special place for me, which just tips it into the top spot.

1. Six Senses Zil Pasyon, Seychelles

A private island escape that delivers on every level

There are luxury resorts, and then there are places like Six Senses Zil Pasyon - where everything just feels a little more special. You can read my full review here.

Set on the private island of Félicité, this is one of those rare destinations where the setting alone is enough to justify the journey. Dramatic granite boulders, turquoise water and total seclusion create a landscape that feels almost surreal.

But what elevates it is how Six Senses has integrated into that environment:

• Villas designed for complete privacy

• Seamless indoor-outdoor living

• Service that feels intuitive rather than scripted

The villas are expansive, each with its own pool and uninterrupted ocean views. You’re not overlooked, you’re not rushed - you’re simply left to enjoy the space.

Dining is relaxed but consistently high quality, and the spa (as you would expect from Six Senses) is a standout, tucked into the hillside with views across the island.

👉 This is the kind of place where you truly switch off.

Why it’s number one:
It’s the combination of location, privacy and that unmistakable Seychelles magic. There are very few places that feel this complete.

2. Six Senses Douro Valley, Portugal

A completely different take on the brand — and arguably the most balanced

If Zil Pasyon is about escape, Six Senses Douro Valley is about experience. You can read my full review here.

Set within Portugal’s Douro Valley wine region, this property blends a restored 19th-century manor house with contemporary interiors in a way that feels both authentic and modern.

What stands out here is the versatility:

• Wine experiences and tastings

• A destination spa that could easily justify the trip alone

• Seasonal dining focused on local produce

It’s the kind of hotel where you can be as active or as relaxed as you like. One day might be vineyard visits and wine tastings, the next entirely focused on the spa and wellness programme.

The setting is also incredibly calming - rolling vineyards, river views and a sense of space that feels very different to coastal resorts.

👉 It’s probably the most “complete” Six Senses property I’ve experienced.

Why it’s number two (just):
It delivers across the board - but for me, it just misses out to the Seychelles on that once-in-a-lifetime setting (or as lucky as I have been, for it to be regular destination to visit).

3. Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, Istanbul

A unique urban interpretation of the Six Senses philosophy

What makes Six Senses Kocataş Mansions so interesting is that it takes everything you expect from Six Senses - and places it firmly within a city setting. You can read the full review here.

Located along the Bosphorus in two restored Ottoman-era mansions, it offers something quite different:

• A strong sense of history and place

• Direct access to one of the world’s most fascinating cities

• A more compact, boutique feel compared to resort-style properties

Rooms are beautifully designed, many with Bosphorus views, and the setting feels calm despite being within Istanbul.

It’s also one of those properties that works particularly well as part of a wider itinerary — combining city exploration with a more relaxed, almost resort-like base.

👉 It proves that Six Senses isn’t just about remote destinations.

Why it’s number three:
It’s exceptional in its own right, but naturally can’t compete with the scale and immersion of the resort-style properties above.

Final Thoughts

What this list really highlights is just how diverse Six Senses has become as a brand.

• A private island in the Seychelles

• A vineyard retreat in Portugal

• A historic mansion setting in Istanbul

• And a lot more reviews to come.

Three completely different experiences, yet all unmistakably Six Senses.

And that’s exactly why I keep returning - not for consistency in the traditional sense, but for the confidence that wherever you go, the experience will feel considered, authentic and quietly exceptional.

Book with VIP Perks

If you’re considering any of these properties, I can arrange your stay with preferred partner benefits, which may include:

• Room upgrades (subject to availability)

• Daily breakfast for two

• Hotel credits

• Early check-in / late check-out

• Personalised welcome amenities

When booking with me through Fora Travel, I’m also able to keep an eye on your reservation with automatic price tracking, meaning if a better rate becomes available before arrival, we can look to resecure it where possible. It’s a simple but valuable extra layer — ensuring you’re not only receiving VIP benefits, but also booking with confidence on price.

📩 dave.gillan@fora.travel
Or explore more at theprivatetraveller.com

Read more reviews here

Frequently Asked Questions About Six Senses Hotels

What are the best Six Senses hotels?

Some of the best Six Senses hotels include Six Senses Zil Pasyon in the Seychelles, Six Senses Douro Valley in Portugal, and Six Senses Kocataş Mansions in Istanbul. Each offers a completely different experience, from private island luxury to vineyard retreats and historic city stays.

Which Six Senses hotel is best for a honeymoon?

Six Senses Zil Pasyon in the Seychelles is one of the best Six Senses hotels for a honeymoon, thanks to its private villas, secluded beaches, and exceptional setting on a private island.

Is Six Senses Douro Valley worth visiting?

Six Senses Douro Valley is absolutely worth visiting, particularly for those interested in wine, wellness and scenic countryside. It combines a destination spa with access to one of Europe’s most beautiful wine regions.

What is Six Senses Kocataş Mansions like?

Six Senses Kocataş Mansions in Istanbul offers a unique blend of historic Ottoman architecture and modern luxury, with views over the Bosphorus and easy access to the city’s cultural highlights.

What makes Six Senses hotels different?

Six Senses hotels are known for combining wellness, sustainability and design in a way that feels authentic to each destination. No two properties are the same, yet they consistently deliver high levels of service and experience.

Are Six Senses hotels good value?

Six Senses hotels are positioned at the luxury end of the market, but they offer strong value through their unique locations, wellness offerings, and overall experience. Booking through a travel advisor can also provide additional benefits and value.

I have already written about my full trip itinerary which you can find here, and I’ve already written about my initial Day 1 impressions here - this covers everything from boarding in Miami and first impressions of the ship, through to my Haven suite, dining experiences and how Norwegian Luna is laid out deck by deck.

When I complete the full review, I will also be writing about the whole experience from start to finish, including the booking and pre-cruise process, embarkation in Miami, first impressions onboard, a detailed look at The Haven suite, dining across both speciality and complimentary venues, bars and lounges, wellness and fitness facilities, entertainment and onboard atmosphere, shore experiences, service levels throughout the ship, and finally the overall journey through to disembarkation and whether Norwegian Luna is truly worth it.

In the meantime, here is a quick day by day summary to give you an idea of what cruising life can be like on board Norwegian Luna.

Day 1 – Embarkation in Miami & First Impressions of The Haven

The embarkation process at Miami was quick and efficient, once I actually got to the port terminal with the complete disorganisation of how the port authorities were managing traffic. Norwegian uses Terminal B, which was spacious and organised well, and exclusive areas for Haven and Suite guests, as well having the upstairs VIP lounge. I didn’t get to use that for long however, realising that passengers were already being escorted on board.

My initial view of The Haven with Norwegian that it wasn’t as exclusive as perhaps I had initially felt in The Retreat on Celebrity’s Xcel launch cruise, BUT it probably wasn’t fair comparison time wise with this being over the Easter and weekend and very much Spring Break for the US. Also, it probably also felt overly busy initially with everyone coming on board heading straight to The Haven. Once things had levelled out, I always found The Haven just that - a haven from the rest of the ship. But the rest of the ship was good too!

• Lunch: The Haven Restaurant

• Dinner: Surfside Café & Grill

• Activities: Thermal Suite, Ship exploration

Day 2 – A Day at Sea: Settling into Life Onboard

As much as it can be interesting (or not as the case may be) to get off the ship and explore new places, I also really enjoy having a Sea Day so it’s all about experiencing the ship - and I do love to try and explore all areas and decks, and to check out as many restaurants and bars as possible.

Having checked out the gym class timetable (and having bought an unlimited week’s class pass) I went to a spin class this morning, which would be one of only two across the whole week (on sea days only) and as it would later transpire, with the Norwegian ship showing the wrong time, I would miss the second one on Friday! There have been very few negatives on board, but having bought the class pass when there were so few classes, was very misleading (and costly).

After breakfast, I literally started on the lowest deck of interest (deck 6) - deck 5 seemed to be guest cabins only, and I saw a bit of industrial deck 4 when embarking and disembarking from the ports (not Miami - which we entered on deck 6). I then worked my way around the lower decks, ending up at the Indulge Food Hall just before noon. I’ve loved all of the food options on board, but as a vegetarian (and being such a geek re things like ordering through iPads etc.) I’ve found Indulge for lunch or dinner really great. It does get busy though, and that first day I realised the best time was to get there maybe 10-15 minutes before the ordering starts in order to secure a table. You then just need to wait until precisely the opening times before the tablets will start accepting orders.

• Breakfast: The Haven Restaurant

• Lunch: Indulge Food Hall

• Dinner: Indulge Food Hall

• Activities: Spin Class, Thermal Suite

Day 3 – Harvest Caye, Belize: Private Island Experience

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Harvest Caye, but had assumed it would be like one of the other cruise line manufactured islands, and I guess it was. I had booked the only and only off-ship ‘excursion’ - a zipline experience. Although there were so few negative experiences with Norwegian, this was another one. I had assumed the on board app would show anything that had been booked, but when I asked on the first day I was told that anything prebooked did not transfer. Nor too, as I would find out, would either any prebooked spa appointments, or those booked on board, show either. I was so surprised that for such a brand new ship, and technology the way it now is, how paper based everything was. And also the volume of advertising that would come to the suite daily - selling the on board “art”, jewellery, next cruise booking, on board auctions and sales etc. 

Anyway, back to what would turn out to be the non-existent zipline booking - when I asked at The Haven Concierge and showed them my confirmation email, they asked if I had the yellow excursion vouchers, which of course I didn’t. I was told to check with the excursions team who were then on dock, but when checking there again I was told there was no booking. I did walk around the island instead, there was a main pool, large beach and a lot of bars, restaurants and ‘local’ shops but it was all a bit tacky - but actually as it would turn out, better than either the port options at Roatan or Costa Maya. Nevertheless, it was still good to walk around for the exercise and daily steps, then appreciating getting back on board to The Haven.

Later in the afternoon, I had my first treatment in the Mandara Spa - a very intensive bamboo massage with a very experienced massage therapist; then some down time again in the Thermal Suite afterwards. The pass for the Thermal Suite for the week was money very well spent - after feeling the same facility on Celebrity Xcel was over used (and it was almost impossible sometimes to tell if a steam room or sauna was already full there as they were so enclosed) on Luna this double height space never felt overly busy. There was such a great choice of steam, saunas, ice and salt rooms; as well as the huge thermal lounge right in the bow of the ship and the hot and cold bubbly pools. One thing, of many, that Norwegian had got right here I would say was the openness of the saunas and salt rooms - there were a choice of three different saunas (clay, charcoal and Finnish) was that they were all glass fronted and along a corridor so it was easy to see how occupied, or not, they were. There were also two good experience showers and of course all of the heated beds throughout. A highly recommended experience, and 10/10 for the design and creativity here.

• Breakfast: The Haven Restaurant

• Lunch: The Local Bar & Grill (main course limited bar menu, dessert in the restaurant)

• Dinner: The Haven Restaurant

• Activities: Walking, 75 minute Bamboo Massage, Thermal Suite

Day 4 – Roatán, Honduras: Reef, Rainforest & Island Culture

Other than I would find on the last (sailing) day where the waters back to Miami were very slightly (but only slightly) choppier, there was almost no movement on board the ship at all when sailing. It was therefore a nice surprise to wake up to this green hillside view, and what looked like a non-manufactured Caribbean island. From my suite’s location, I couldn’t actually see where the ship was docked too, although I knew we had) but it was only after breakfast and disembarking from deck 4 did I realise that it was a non-dissimilar port experience of a large pool, shops, restaurants and bars - and again all a bit tacky. Once I had braved the barrage of stands and people selling tours (and there were a lot) I navigated through the exit thinking that I would walk to the local town, Coxon Hole. It was described as the “lively heart” of Roatán, BUT in a very local, functional way rather than polished or touristy.

Although again it was good for the daily steps, and good exercise being so hot (so I was glad I was well supplied with water) I felt like I was probably the only ship tourist that had ventured further afoot that the nearest car park to the port, where clearly some passengers had agreed to meet a local guide. As I should have predicted, there was nothing of interest in Coxon Hole, and then it made me realise how the shops at the port itself were actually ok in comparison. Another day though where one of the best things was to get back on board.

Tonight would be my first show in the Luna Theatre, and it was really good - not just the music of The Eagles, but their back story and history too - very highly recommended. I just don’t know what happened to the other advertised show in advance on board, about Fleetwood Mac - once boarded, any sign of this seemed to have disappeared. 

• Breakfast: The Haven Restaurant

• Lunch: Indulge Food Hall

• Dinner: Surfside Café & Grill

• Activities: Lots of walking, Syd Norman’s Presents: A Tribute to Eagles

Day 5 – Costa Maya, Mexico: A purpose-built port with easy access to beaches and Mayan ruins

Costa Maya was another purpose-built cruise port and secure tourist village in Mexico, featuring a large, free-to-use central swimming pool, swim-up bars, numerous shops, and themed cultural attractions. Located near the town of Mahahual, it provides easy access to beaches, Mayan ruins, and diving, making it an all-in-one destination for cruise travellers. The shops were all the same as elsewhere - jewellery, duty free, cosmetics, tourist tatt, drugstores etc. but there was (like elsewhere, but this seemed bigger and more professional) a two-floor open spa building. I opted for reflexology and it was a decent massage, and well-priced.

Walking around though, the pool bar was quite manic as also in the same port at the same time was Royal Caribbean’s Enchantment of the Seas and MSC’s Seascape, so a busy day. After the massage, and a quick walk around, it was good to get back on board and have my favourite lunch at the Indulge Food Hall. After another treatment in the spa, more time in the Thermal Suite, then the first showing of ELTON - it was a really good evening (great show) followed by a good dinner in another of the complementary restaurants, Hudson’s. This is the same menu as The Commodore Room - not amazing for vegetarians, but the menu board displayed outside did also feature a special option for each day - today it was Eggplant Parmigiana. 

• Breakfast: The Haven Restaurant

• Lunch: Indulge Food Hall, with a pre-starter and cocktail at The Local Bar

• Dinner: Hudson’s 

• Activities: The Barber Shop - Groom & Go; ELTON: A Celebration of Elton John

Day 6 – Cozumel, Mexico: Caribbean Shores & Hotel Esencia Escape

This would be a very different day for me, having visited Cozumel before with Celebrity Xcel, I took the chance to visit Hotel Esencia at Riviera Maya, on the Mexican mainland directly across from Cozumel by ferry. I had breakfast early in The Haven Restaurant, and got ready for the 9am ferry. FYI on this, there are three ferry companies, all doing the same routes but at different times and with different services. I opted for Ultramar (based on timing and there being a First Class), but there was also Winjet and Xcaret Ferry too. It’s a good idea to get your tickets in advance online, for ease of convenience at the ports just to scan your barcode ticket, but also to avoid the touts (and indeed my taxi driver) who also wanted to sell me tickets.

There are actually three ports too on Cozumel, the first (nearest to town and ferry port) being Punta Langosta, the second International Pier (SSA) where I had arrived before, and the third and furthest away being Puerta Maya. For convenience, I had hoped the ship would dock at Punta Langosta, a walk to the ferry, but in fact Luna docked at Puerta Maya. Taxis are freely available, just expect a bit of hassle and know the price in advance. After trying to sell me a day trip, then ferry tickets, he was telling me he’d waited in a three hour line just to get a fare to the ferry. The standard taxi fare seemed to be $10 US, and another tip is make sure you have appropriate cash as sometimes taxis (if you only have larger notes) won’t have change!

The ferry worked well, was on time and efficient - I just didn’t realise on the journey across to Playa Del Carmen ferry terminal (and the adjacent Paseo Del Carmen Shopping Mall) that I was sitting in the basic Premium Plus section, and First Class was actually upstairs. Despite having paid for First both ways, I only realised on the return! My day at Hotel Esencia was excellent, and I’ll write up a full separate Trip Report.

Back on board, and actually Puerta Maya the port didn’t seem as bad as some of the others, I took the chance to try out the Observation Lounge for some afternoon tea (or more High Tea maybe as there were some hot options, as well as sandwiches, cookies and scones). I then had the same therapist for a deep tissue massage which was also excellent. Dinner was back in The Haven restaurant, which was good, I just hadn’t appreciated that the menu remained fixed here every night.

• Breakfast: The Haven Restaurant

• Lunch: Out at Hotel Esencia; afternoon tea Observation Lounge

• Dinner: The Haven Restaurant

• Activities: Deep Tissue Massage 100mins, Thermal Suite, In-room movie (Marty Supreme)

Day 7 – A Final Day at Sea: Dining, Spa & The Haven Experience

Probably the most frustrating start to the day, and only because things didn’t work out as planned. As I said before, there were only two spin classes across the week - Sunday and Friday at 9am. I delayed having breakfast until after the class, and got there (as I thought) at 8:45am to warm up. I did think it was odd that no one else came (but on Sunday there had only been four including me) but at 9am I went into the gym to try and find an attendant. He told me that it was 10am then, and the class was over. With the ship going through a few different time zones, the time would change over at 2am and I knew there was a time change last night. With the Norwegian in-ship app showing the time as 9am, I had assumed that was right, but when I checked with the Haven Concierge they acknowledged that was often wrong, and I should only go by the time on the phone in the suite!

Not only this did this mean I had missed the spin class, I’d also missed breakfast in the Haven. There were later options elsewhere though, and I tried out for the first time breakfast elsewhere - Indulge Food Hall where different stations were set up for breakfast.

If you’re looking for information on the specialty restaurants on board, a good way to check them all out is to visit the reservations desk in Hasuki next to the Whiskey Bar on deck 6. They have all the menus available to view, and also to book restaurant times. For the bulk of the week, I had ignored the speciality options, thinking that it just didn’t make sense to pay an extra fee to have the most limited vegetarian options of any restaurant. That said, I only realised on the second last night that my on board package already included three speciality dining meals - I had already paid the service charge (£20) x three meals. I therefore took the chance to book the Italian speciality option, Onda by Scarpetta for my last night.

• Breakfast: Indulge Food Hall (they serve a later breakfast, with a time change issue)

• Lunch: Indulge Food Hall

• Dinner: Onda by Scarpetta

• Activities: A more lazy day, albeit gym session later followed by a final visit to the Thermal Suite

Day 8 – Disembarkation in Miami & Final Thoughts

Breakfast was served in The Haven from 6-8am, and I was to be off the ship by 9am. Priority luggage labels were provided for Haven guests, and as long as you had any luggage outside the suite before 10pm the previous evening, they would be transferred into the cruise terminal for collection there. Haven guests got priority embarkation and disembarkation at some ports, and Miami would be one where Haven guests got escorted directly from the lounge to disembark.

My only other observations would be to withdraw any cash for gratuities before disembarkation day - once you’re in port all of the Casino machines (including the ATM’s) do not work. I had breakfast about 7:30am and The Haven Restaurant was by the far the busiest I’d seen, and then went down to deck 6 about 8:30am where there was a priority queue for Haven guests. It was easy to retrieve my luggage from the Haven priority area, but it was quite manic outside with lots of other passengers getting taxis and Ubers.

• Breakfast: The Haven Restaurant

Final Thoughts - Is Norwegian Luna Worth It? A First Sailing Perspective.

Yes, my resounding response is a definite yes. There were a few quirks with the app and pre-bookings, and having such limited spin classes felt like a waste of the unlimited class pass. I wasn’t enthralled by any of the port stops, but this trip was never really about the destinations themselves, but more around the experience of the new Norwegian Luna ship. The facilities on board were excellent, as were all the dining and bar options, and the Mandara Spa and Thermal Suite was way beyond expectations, as were the two shows I saw in the Luna Theatre. All in all a very positive response, and as I’ve said before, The Haven was indeed a haven.

Booking Norwegian Luna & Luxury Cruises with The Private Traveller

If you’re considering Norwegian Luna — particularly experiencing The Haven — getting the booking right can make a significant difference to the overall experience.

From choosing the right suite category and deck location, to understanding what’s genuinely worth paying for onboard, there are a number of small decisions that can elevate a cruise from good to exceptional.

Through my affiliation with Fora Travel, I’m able to offer the same publicly available rates, alongside additional benefits where available — including priority access, onboard credit, potential upgrades, and a more personalised booking experience.

Having now experienced Norwegian Luna first-hand — from embarkation in Miami through to life in The Haven, dining, spa and the day-to-day flow of the ship — I can provide clear, practical guidance on:

• Choosing the right Norwegian Luna itinerary

• Selecting the best Haven suite for your preferences

• When it’s worth upgrading — and when it isn’t

• How to make embarkation and onboard life seamless

• How Norwegian compares to other premium and luxury cruise lines

Whether you’re planning a Caribbean sailing, a Mediterranean itinerary, or exploring other cruise options, the goal is always the same — to tailor the experience so it works for you, rather than simply following a standard booking.

Start Planning Your Next Cruise

If you’d like help planning your own Norwegian Luna sailing, or any cruise experience:

📩 dave.gillan@fora.travel
🌐 theprivatetraveller.com

Why book with The Private Traveller?

Because the difference isn’t just in the booking — it’s in the detail, the insight, and ensuring the experience feels considered from start to finish.

Launching in Spring 2027, Aman at Sea will debut with its inaugural luxury motor yacht, Amangati (Sanskrit for “peaceful motion”). Designed as a floating sanctuary, the yacht will welcome just 94 guests across 47 expansive suites, offering exceptional space, privacy and Aman’s signature atmosphere of calm.

Aman takes to the sea with Amangati — an ultra-luxury yacht experience launching a new era of Aman travel.

While full details are still emerging, Amangati by Aman is already shaping up to be one of the most intriguing luxury yacht launches in years. It’s certainly a launch I’ll be watching closely as Aman prepares to take its signature sense of tranquillity from land to sea.

What We Know So Far

Reservations are now being taken, and knowing the Senior Director for America Sales from Orient Express days, I would be well placed to help with your new reservation. Journeys for the first year have been announced, all of which are in the Mediterranean, but if you wanted to exclusively hire the whole yacht the quicker you inquire the better. Some voyages may still be available as a whole yacht buyout, but normally this would need to be booked perhaps two years in advance.

In snapshot, there will be:

• Four dining venues (Alira, Hiori, Akari and Aman Grill)

• Six social lounges (The Jazz Club, Cigar Lounge, The Bar at Aman Grill, Sake Bar, Pool Bar, Gelato Bar)

• Selora Marina with water toys and two extendable wings

• Infinity Pool and two sea pools with sun loungers and daybeds

• Aman Spa and Fitness Studio (Beauty lounge and Medi Spa)

• Cinema

• Youth Lounge

• Starlink ® Wi-Fi for reliable connectivity

• Tailor-made shoreside experiences

• Two helicopter landing pads

• Boutique

• Yoga & Meditation Deck

Accommodation

The suites aboard Amangati by Aman are designed to feel more like spacious Aman resort residences at sea, with just 47 expansive accommodations ensuring exceptional privacy, minimalist design and uninterrupted ocean views throughout the yacht. Deluxe Suites look very special, but if you want to experience this in ultimate luxury and exclusivity, then the Aman Suite, accessed by a private lift, is Amangati’s signature suite. Spanning 354 square metres (3,811 square feet), this comes with an in-suite massage room and sweeping terrace with private Jacuzzi, located aft on Deck 5.

Dining

Dining on Amangati by Aman will reflect the brand’s celebrated culinary philosophy, combining refined international cuisine, seasonal ingredients and elegant oceanfront settings designed to feel more like an Aman resort than a traditional cruise ship. All meals and soft drinks are included at the main restaurant Alira, with speciality dining options (including private and in-suite dining) available at extra cost.

Experiences

The experiences aboard Amangati by Aman will centre on wellness, cultural immersion and relaxed exploration, with curated shore excursions, holistic spa rituals and thoughtful onboard programming designed to reflect Aman’s signature sense of tranquillity.

Why It Feels Very “Aman”

Although Amangati by Aman marks the brand’s first move into ocean travel, the concept remains unmistakably Aman. Rather than resembling a traditional luxury cruise ship, the yacht has been conceived as a floating extension of the Aman philosophy — centred on serenity, privacy and space. Expect minimalist design inspired by Aman’s iconic resorts, expansive suites that prioritise tranquillity and personal space, and a strong emphasis on wellness and holistic experiences. With just 94 guests on board and a high staff-to-guest ratio, the atmosphere is intended to feel intimate and deeply personalised, much closer to staying at a secluded Aman resort than embarking on a conventional cruise.

My First Thoughts

My immediate first thought is when can I experience this for myself - the first voyage is a 6 night trip (Balearic Adventure) from Palma de Mallorca to Nice (and including Mahón, Barcelona, Palamós, Marseille, Saint-Tropez). There is an unenviable selection of suite types from the “entry” Deluxe through Premier and Signature, to the jewel in the crown Grand and (the one and only) Aman Suite.

What will it cost?

A 5 night journey will cost from $38,500 for a Deluxe Suite, the “entry” level. BUT, with these suites showcasing open-plan living, with 65.1 to 67.9 square metres (703 to 731 square feet) complemented by full-height windows and private terraces, these feel anything but entry level. Space like this could be bigger than some small apartments. Aman will price by suite, not per person, unlike most other cruise lines, not that Aman is really like any other cruise line. Personally, as often a solo traveller on the sea (‘Mrs’ Private Traveller having quite negative views on ocean travel) I usually have to double the headline price for only one traveller versus a couple. 

While children are allowed, with a minimum age of 6 months as is often the case, infants (6 months–under 2 years) can share a suite with their parents (up to three guests in the suite). Children aged 2+ must occupy a separate suite with a parent or guardian and guests under 18 must travel with a responsible adult for the entire voyage. There are also a few onboard restrictions for minors, such as under-18s cannot use the spa, fitness centre or jacuzzi; and some shore excursions and facilities may have age limits. Adjoining cabins are available though, and there are also 10 bookable staff cabins if you were travelling with say a nanny.

Booking With The Private Traveller

Reservations are now open for the inaugural Aman at Sea journeys launching in May 2027, with the full Mediterranean season now available to book.

As a luxury travel advisor with Fora Travel, I’m able to offer expert insight into both luxury cruising and Aman’s distinctive approach to hospitality. Guests who reserve Amangati by Aman through The Private Traveller will also receive an exclusive $500 onboard credit, which can be used towards spa treatments, private dining experiences or curated excursions ashore.

If you would like to explore suites, itineraries or availability for Amangati’s inaugural season, please feel free to get in touch.

Email: dave.gillan@fora.travel

All images courtesy of Aman / Aman at Sea.

As another year turns, I always like to look back at what I’ve achieved travel-wise, and what’s either already booked or on the horizon for the year ahead. Interestingly, I’ve only added two new countries this year - Norway and Colombia - yet, as TripIt reminds me, that still translated into 12 countries visited in total, 58,323 miles flown, 20 trips, over 138 days away, and 49 cities explored. I always have an ongoing discussion/argument with ‘Mrs’ TPT over how long trips are, where he has an aversion to anything over 14 days. With often an overnight in London before an onward flight, or a return overnight flight, TripIt will count both of these as full days!

New experiences remain incredibly important to me. Despite ‘Mrs’ TPT’s long-held misgivings (or outright aversion) to cruises, I somehow managed three this year — even persuading him to join me on one, and convincing him to book another for 2026. I’ve developed a real appreciation for inaugural cruise journeys in particular; while neither Queen Mary 2 nor Hermes Galápagos were inaugural sailings, Celebrity Xcel was, and Explora III will be as well. Residential train journeys aren’t new to me, but I was fortunate to experience one of the early departures of the La Dolce Vita Orient Express in Italy, alongside visits to some truly exceptional spas around the world.

I also know I can be hard on myself - acutely aware of the blogs still unfinished, or the refinements I want to make to the website to further enhance the reader experience and better share my travels. Instead, I’m trying to focus more on what has been achieved. This year saw me progress through every level at Fora to become a Fora X Advisor, alongside completing extensive brand and destination training - ensuring I can offer informed, confident guidance even when advising on places I haven’t yet experienced first-hand.

What I’ve Achieved on the Website

Over the past year, The Private Traveller has grown into a much more structured and content-rich platform, including:

• 14 Travel Itineraries

• 10 Hotel Reviews

• 1 Train Review

• 5 Spa Reviews

• 2 Cruise Reviews

• 6 Travel Diaries

Alongside this, several new sections and features have been introduced:

• Destination Edits — deeper, more considered features on individual locations

• A dedicated Cruise Review section (with much more to come)

• Ocean Voyages / The Cruise Collection

• Exclusive Events Planning

So, how did 2025 look for me…

January – Boston and New York

We wrapped up our extended (last) Christmas and New Year trip with time in Boston and New York, staying at some wonderful hotels including Four Seasons Boston, The Plaza, Equinox Hudson Yards, and The William Vale. One standout - at least in terms of style, history and design (if not service) - remains the TWA Hotel at JFK, still one of my personal favourites.

February – Los Angeles, Palm Springs and Joshua Tree

California featured once again, with what must now be our third visit for Modernism Week in Palm Springs, and our fifth time returning to the town itself. The trip also gave us the chance to stay somewhere new in Bel-Air — the beautiful Hotel Bel-Air from The Dorchester Collection - despite a dramatic arrival into LAX amid extreme rain and flooding.

We finally ticked off a long-standing wishlist stay at The Parker Palm Springs, before ending the trip with a couple of nights in an incredible house in the high desert of Joshua Tree.

March - Edinburgh (Gleneagles Townhouse and Fingal)

March stayed close to home, but firmly in luxury territory. Edinburgh paired two very different but equally characterful stays: the refined members-club elegance of Gleneagles Townhouse, and the wonderfully distinctive Fingal, Scotland’s floating hotel permanently moored in Leith. It was a reminder that you don’t need to travel far to experience something genuinely special - particularly when heritage, design and storytelling are done well.

April - London (Raffles London at The OWO)

April was all about one of London’s most anticipated openings in years. A stay at Raffles London at The OWO offered a deep dive into historic grandeur reimagined for modern luxury travellers. From the architecture and sense of occasion to the spa and dining scene, this was a landmark hotel visit - and one that firmly earned its place in London’s top tier.

May - Spain (Le Méridien Ra Beach Hotel & Spa) & Italy (Palermo, Taormina, La Dolce Vita Orient Express, Rome and Puglia)

May unfolded across two very different European moods. First, a restorative coastal escape at Le Méridien Ra Beach Hotel & Spa in Spain - a slower, wellness-led interlude.

Italy followed, and it was expansive. Sicily began in Palermo, before moving to Taormina, including time at the iconic Four Seasons San Domenico Palace. From there, one of the year’s standout experiences: the La Dolce Vita Orient Express, blending nostalgia, design and slow travel in a way that felt both indulgent and meaningful. Six Senses Rome and Rocco Forte’s Masseria Torres Maizza in Puglia completed the journey, with a focus on elegant hotels, regional character and seamless flow between destinations.

June - Oslo, Norway (Three Hotels, Three Perspectives)

June brought a return to Scandinavia, with Oslo offering a compact but surprisingly varied hotel scene. Staying across three contrasting properties allowed for a broader sense of the city - from contemporary waterfront design to heritage-led comfort - all set against long summer days and that calm, understated luxury that Norway does so well.

Where I Stayed

• Amerikalinjen — Boutique heritage in the heart of the city, atmospheric and perfectly placed for exploring

• Sommerro Oslo — Art Deco revival with standout wellness, dining and rooftop spaces

• The Thief — Modern, waterfront design with contemporary art, views and a quieter sense of luxury

Each stay offered a different take on Oslo, and together they made the trip feel more like three micro-experiences rather than one hotel stay. Can you work out which was my favourite?

July - Dubai & San Sebastián — Two Very Different Kinds of Escape

July felt like two completely different trips. I began in Dubai - solo this time. This wasn’t a big, structured itinerary; more of a relaxed return to a city I know well, spending time between SIRO One Za’abeel and One&Only One Za’abeel, with stops at Atlantis The Royal and One&Only The Palm to compare what the newer openings are doing. It was less about box-ticking and more about seeing how Dubai continues to evolve - especially in terms of design-led luxury and wellness.

After the heat, scale and solo pace of Dubai, San Sebastián felt like the complete opposite in the best possible way. This leg was a direct flight from Edinburgh with BA Cityflyer, and it was a simple couples’ escape: slower mornings, walks along La Concha, long lunches, and a focus on food rather than five-star spectacle. One hotel, one destination, and no pressure to do anything except enjoy it.

Two destinations that couldn’t be more different - but together, they balanced each other perfectly.

August - Hamburg (Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 and a Preview of New Luxury in the City)

August marked a return to the water with Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, sailing from Hamburg. There’s something timeless about QM2 — classic rather than cutting-edge - and this voyage reminded me why it remains such an icon. The experience feels rooted in tradition: generous deck space, a sense of occasion at sea, and that unmistakable transatlantic personality that Cunard does so well. For couples who enjoy slower travel with formality and grace, it’s still hard to beat.

Before boarding, we made time to explore Hamburg’s luxury hotel scene - including a first look at the newly opening Conrad Hamburg, as well as a visit to the legendary Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten overlooking the Alster. Both offered very different forms of luxury: one heritage and grandeur, the other sleek, international and contemporary. Hamburg feels like a city rediscovering its place in luxury travel, and these hotels were a big part of that impression.

September - London (Sanderson) and Iceland (The Retreat at Blue Lagoon)

September balanced city and nature beautifully. A stay at Sanderson London revisited one of the capital’s design classics, before heading north to Iceland and the extraordinary Retreat at Blue Lagoon. Few places deliver such a powerful sense of isolation and calm, and this was one of the most immersive wellness experiences of the year. This was also my first time flying with Icelandair in Saga Class on their inaugural Edinburgh to Reykjavik service.

October - London (Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane) and Canada and USA — Niagara Falls, New York and TWA Hotel)

October began with a refined London stay at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane, before crossing the Atlantic for a multi-stop North American itinerary. Niagara Falls provided a dramatic natural counterpoint to city travel, followed by time in New York, including a return to the much-loved TWA Hotel at JFK — still one of the most design-led airport hotels anywhere.

November - Miami & Fort Lauderdale - Two Hotels and Celebrity Xcel (Preview and Inaugural Focus)

November was anchored in Florida, split between Miami and Fort Lauderdale, before stepping aboard Celebrity Xcel. This was one of the most forward-looking cruise experiences of the year, offering insight into where premium cruising is heading - and confirming a growing personal interest in inaugural and next-generation ships. It was also a good chance beforehand to experience two of Fort Lauderdale’s five star hotels, the newly reimagined Pier Sixty-Six, as well as the Four Seasons, before seeing what Celebrity’s ‘The Retreat’ is all about.

December - Austria (Innsbruck and Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol), Ecuador (Guayaquil and the Galápagos), and Colombia (Cartagena and Barú)

The year closed with one of its most diverse journeys. December began in the Alps, combining Innsbruck with a deeply restorative stay at Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol, where spa culture, space and setting came together beautifully.

From there, the journey continued to Ecuador, starting in Guayaquil before heading to the Galápagos aboard the Hermes Galápagos mega catamaran - a standout expedition-style experience delivered at a genuinely high level of comfort.

Finally, Colombia brought warmth, colour and history, with time in Cartagena followed by a private-island escape on Barú, rounding out the year with a sense of contrast, depth and discovery.

2025 Itineraries Published on The Private Traveller

A full year of luxury journeys - land, sea, rail and wellness escapes.

A look back at the journeys I created this year — each personally experienced, reviewed, and designed with seamless flow, hotel perks and trusted partner benefits.

Luxury Travel Itinerary: California – LA, Palm Springs & Joshua Tree
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-california-itinerary-la-palm-springs-joshua-tree

Luxury Staycation in Edinburgh: Gleneagles Townhouse & Fingal
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-staycation-edinburgh-gleneagles-townhouse-fingal

Sicily to Rome in Style (Part I): Villas, Views & an Overnight Sleeper Train
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/sicily-rome-italy-itinerary

La Dolce Vita to Puglia (Part II): Southern Italy by Rail
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-italy-itinerary-part-two-rome-to-puglia

Luxury Oslo: Three Hotels, Three Perspectives
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-oslo-hotels-itinerary

Dubai in Style: SIRO & One&Only One Za’abeel
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/dubai-itinerary-siro-oneandonly

The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon – Iceland’s Ultimate Wellness Escape
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/iceland-itinerary

San Sebastián in Style – Hotel Maria Cristina & Direct Flights
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-san-sebastian-itinerary-hotel-maria-cristina

Queen Mary 2 – Southampton to Hamburg Cruise
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/cunard-queen-mary-2-cruise-itinerary

Luxury London Weekend Break – Hotels, Dining & Experiences
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-london-weekend-break

Niagara to New York – Iconic Stays & Sights
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-niagara-falls-new-york-city

Fort Lauderdale & Celebrity Xcel Preview Cruise
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-fort-lauderdale-celebrity-xcel-preview

Innsbruck & Interalpen-Hotel Tyrol – Winter in the Alps
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/interalpen-tyrol-innsbruck-winter-itinerary

Ecuador, Galápagos & Colombia – A Luxury Land & Sea Journey
https://theprivatetraveller.com/travel-itineraries/luxury-galapagos-ecuador-colombia-journey

How 2026 is looking so far

I don’t have the whole year mapped out yet (unusual for me), but 2026 is already shaping up to include some exciting return journeys and a few firsts. We start with a short London break in January, followed by a June trip to Bruges via Eurostar — still one of my favourite ways to travel there.

I’ve also secured another inaugural sailing, this time with Norwegian Cruise Line on the brand-new Norwegian Luna, booked in The Haven - their ship-within-a-ship suite enclave. It’ll be my first time experiencing The Haven on a new-build vessel, so I’m keen to see how it compares with the likes of Celebrity and Explora.

Later in the year, there’s a return to Italy: beginning in Portofino before joining Explora III for a coastal journey through the South of France and Italy, then returning to Rome for La Minerva by Orient Express, and finally a train to Florence to close the loop. We’ll finish with an easy direct BA Cityflyer flight from Florence to Edinburgh.

Explora III – Planned Itinerary

Genoa (Embarkation)
→ Marseille
→ Saint-Tropez
→ Nice
→ Livorno (for Florence & Tuscany)
→ Return to Civitavecchia/Rome (Disembarkation)

Alongside all that, I’m hoping to carve out more time for wellness this year, including a planned trip to Buff Medical Wellness on Lake Constance in Germany, which I’ve heard excellent things about.

Beyond what’s already in the diary, there are a few experiences on the horizon that I’m genuinely excited to bring to life - trips that sit at the intersection of wilderness, design, and next-generation luxury.

Rwanda is high on the list, with a journey that combines One&Only Gorilla’s Nest and One&Only Nyungwe House - two very different perspectives on the country. Gorilla’s Nest offers a striking, contemporary base close to Volcanoes National Park and the mountain gorillas, while Nyungwe House leans into tranquillity, forest immersion, and slow mornings surrounded by tea plantations. I’d likely pair this with a stay at Giraffe Manor in Nairobi for its heritage, charm and the once-in-a-lifetime experience it offers; it feels like the right prologue to an East African adventure rather than a standalone night.

There’s also a growing curiosity toward the new wave of small-scale expedition (or perhaps “explorer-style”) vessels - from Aqua Expeditions on the Amazon to the upcoming Four Seasons Explorer routes and the small-ship options developing under Ritz-Carlton and the Orient Express hotel group. Not every sailing has to be grand or ocean-crossing; some feel more like floating boutique hotels with a sense of purpose and place.

And finally, there’s the rail world. While La Dolce Vita has already set a high bar, I’m intrigued by Dream of the Desert - not Orient Express-branded, but created by the same group behind Orient Express Hotels and the La Dolce Vita train. It’s tipped for late 2026, and looks set to bring that cinematic, design-first storytelling to a very different landscape.

Add to this the long-awaited opening of Six Senses London at The Whiteley - which is likely to become a benchmark urban wellness property — and 2026 already feels less like a fixed itinerary, and more like a year of possibilities.

Ready to Plan Your Next Journey?

If any part of this year’s travels has sparked an idea - whether it’s a European rail journey, a restorative wellness escape, a heritage hotel in Latin America or a new cruise launch - I’d love to help you plan something personal to you. As a Fora X Advisor, I can secure VIP partner benefits at many of the world’s leading hotels and cruise lines: upgrades, daily breakfast, resort credits, early check-in/late check-out where available, and enhanced recognition on arrival.

More importantly, I bring first-hand experience. Everything I recommend is informed by places I’ve actually visited, stayed, or inspected - from room categories and suite layouts to transfer logistics, spa bookings, and how to stitch an itinerary together so it flows beautifully including business or first class flights.

Whether you already know exactly where you want to go, or you’re unsure and need direction, I’m here to guide the process, simplify the planning, and elevate the experience from the very beginning.

If you’re ready to start curating your own journey:
📩 dave.gillan@fora.travel
💬 DM on Instagram: @theprivatetraveller
🌍 theprivatetraveller.com

Here’s to meaningful journeys in 2026 — and to travelling better, not just further.

Arriving in Cozumel

There were various options on the island offered by Celebrity, all at additional cost, including I believe a trip across to the mainland of Mexico to see the ruins at Chichen Itza etc. but for me the only plan was to see the process for disembarking and to check out the downtown area of Cozumel, which I knew to be about an hour’s walk into Centro San Miguel de Cozumel from the main International Cruise Terminal but there also seemed to be another Cruise Terminal (& Shopping Center) nearer downtown at Punta Langosta. There was also the Quinta Roo terminal right in the centre, for the boats across to Playa del Carmen.

Getting Ashore

Although I realised I had arrived without any Mexican Pesos, I changed some dollars at Guest Services on the ship, small notes so that I would be prepared for a taxi fare into town. It was so easy to get off the ship from the Destination Gateway area on deck 2, with a quick scan of my SeaPass. There was a board showing that the return time had to be 7pm for crew, and 7:30pm for passengers to be “all aboard”. Once off, it was a short walk across the dock (remember, watch out and keep behind the painted red lines) and then through the obligatory shopping complex before I could get to the taxi rank. I asked how much into town, and the driver said $10 which seemed fair, and as expected.

Exploring Downtown Cozumel

I hadn’t expected much from Cozumel, but what there was certainly fell short of even low expectations. To be fair the weather wasn’t amazing (still hot, but overcast and a bit blustery) and it was earlyish in the morning so not all shops were open, but overall it felt quite depressing. In the main the shops were either tourist tatt (t-shirts, gifts, toys etc.) or tequila/mezcal, or which really took me by surprise (and what there seemed to be most of) were chemists advertising all sorts of (normally prescription) drugs being sold at discount and without a prescription. They were everywhere, and loads and loads of them. I even, when passing an organised walking tour, heard the guide bestowing this as one of the highlights of Cozumel, albeit he did acknowledge that while the drugs were legitimate and high quality, there would be no assessment of the suitability for you!

There were quite a few jewellery stores too, and some ceramics/masks/artisanal crafts, but all quite touristy and the extent of my purchases in Cozumel was a hot chocolate from one of the two Starbucks I saw, only to use the bathroom and then finding out it was out of order!

I decided to walk back to the ship along the waterfront, which was really easy and took just over an hour, albeit I did stop in a few places and there was one street just beyond the Punta Langosta shopping center which had two lanes of more traditional shops. This was probably the most interesting area of Cozumel, and although the sales pressure from locals was there, it wasn’t extreme as it can be in some places. Going back I did see what looked like a really well done tequila tasting room right on the water - I couldn’t see any signs but I think it was this.

There are obviously a lot of hotels on Cozumel, but none really that I think I would want to come back to - certainly no high end options like Aman, Four Seasons, Six Senses or the quality that there is on the mainland adjacent, like Hotel Esencia, Chablé Maroma, Belmond etc. Towards the main international port there were some larger hotels there and another shopping complex (the Royal Village Shopping Center) but seeming to sell just the same tourist items and essentials that you might need coming off a cruise, and in between there and the downtown area there was a very large hyper/super market too.

Things to Do in Cozumel

When I look up things to do in Cozumel, this is what comes up:

1. Snorkelling & Diving the Mesoamerican Reef

2. Relax at a Private Beach Club

3. Explore Chankanaab Park

4. Visit San Gervasio Mayan Ruins

5. Discover Punta Sur Eco Beach Park

6. Downtown San Miguel de Cozumel

7. Catamaran or Yacht Charter

8. Tequila & Chocolate Tastings

9. Cozumel Pearl Farm

10. Cozumel Country Club Golf Course

Bonus:
– Day Passes at Top Resorts
– Private Jeep Island Tours
– Luxury Spa Experiences

I’m sure the island looks completely different in glorious sunshine, and there was also a trolley tour I saw going around, albeit the website seems to be a bit odd.

For me, the downtown area was beyond disappointing, and I had no desire to stock up on prescription drugs without a prescription, despite the numerous offers walking around town. The trip had all been about the Celebrity Cruise, and it was great to get full views of the Xcel ship when walking back. Back at the cruise terminal, it was a very simple process — my SeaPass was just checked at the entrance, and then you make your way through the obligatory row of jewellery stores and other shops (and a couple of large bars) before another cursory check at the start of the dock to the ship. Overall this port area felt very run down too, and the highlight was really getting back on board - a quick scan (this time) of my SeaPass and I was given a great welcome back on board by Celebrity staff.

Final Thoughts on Cozumel

All in all, I would completely give Cozumel a miss, I’ve seen it once and nothing really I would want to see again. Like another couple I spoke to on ship, who said they’d been to Cozumel before, they weren’t even planning on getting off the ship and now I can see why.

I’ve already written a first blog about my initial impressions of Celebrity Xcel which you can find here, as well as the itinerary I created for the whole trip. Look out for further posts, and a full cruise review.

Plan Your Own Celebrity Cruise Experience

Whether you’re curious to try one of Celebrity’s newest ships like Xcel or looking to plan a luxury sailing with private shore excursions, VIP inclusions, and the best suite experiences at sea, I can help tailor the perfect itinerary. As a Fora Travel Advisor, I can secure exclusive perks such as priority boarding, onboard credits, upgrades, and more — all at no extra cost to you.

If you’re thinking about a Caribbean voyage, or any other cruise adventure, get in touch to start planning your next escape with The Private Traveller.

✧ Follow my journeys on Instagram @theprivatetraveller
✧ Explore more cruise and hotel reviews at theprivatetraveller.com
✧ For bookings and enquiries: dave.gillan@fora.travel

I write a lot about London, staying in an array of its wide selection of luxury five star hotels, and I love to try out different experiences, sightseeing opportunities, or new shops, restaurants, and bars. Like us, whether you’re visiting London as a short weekend stop, or as a part of a longer UK or European vacation, I have a wealth of information that I can share with you, and there is already a lot of content on my website which you can find here.

I’ll try to keep this updated, and also for anyone booking a London hotel with me, I will send them my most recent London booklet with lots of choices of things to do - here is a quick intro.

Sections in The Best of London by The Private Traveller

• London Museums

  • Covers the best-known cultural institutions (V&A, British Museum, Natural History, Science Museum, Imperial War Museum, etc.).

  • Each entry includes: description, highlights, opening hours, booking advice, and suggested visit duration.

  • Mixes “classic” options (South Kensington) with newer experiences like the V&A East Storehouse.

• Art Galleries

  • From the National Gallery and Tate Modern to smaller gems like the Wallace Collection and Courtauld Gallery.

  • Balanced overview of both traditional masters and cutting-edge contemporary spaces.

  • Practical info is included (free vs ticketed entry, recommended visit length).

• Historic & Landmark Sites

  • Royal palaces, towers, bridges, and cathedrals (Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, St Paul’s, Westminster Abbey).

  • Adds secondary icons like The Shard, Royal Albert Hall, and Greenwich.

• Gardens

  • Both sprawling UNESCO sites like Kew and smaller gems like Chelsea Physic Garden or Kyoto Garden at Holland Park.

  • Includes central Royal Parks and hidden conservatories such as the Barbican Conservatory.

• See London Differently

  • Unique perspectives on the city: dining bus tours, river cruises, the London Eye, Lift 109 at Battersea, cable car rides, and rooftop gardens.

  • Adds experiences beyond the “standard” sightseeing list.

• Iconic London Theatres

  • Combines West End classics (Phantom, Les Mis, Lion King, Hamilton) with cultural institutions like the Royal Opera House and National Theatre.

  • Highlights immersive and special experiences like Shakespeare’s Globe and ABBA Voyage.

• Spa & Wellness

  • Luxury spa highlights (AIRE Ancient Baths, ESPA Life Corinthia, Akasha, Damu Spa at The Mandrake).

  • Describes unique rituals, design features, and insider recommendations.

• Restaurants

  • Curated mix of London dining: Michelin-level (Murano, Mere, Restaurant 1890), institutions (Rules, The Wolseley, Savoy Grill), and stylish modern spots (Yeni, Franco’s).

  • Shows balance between fine dining and more relaxed but iconic options.

• Afternoon Tea

  • Classic teas at The Ritz, Claridge’s, and The Savoy alongside modern or alternative twists (The Londoner’s Champagne Afternoon Tea, The Wolseley “value” option).

  • Each entry notes highlights, why to go, and how long to allow.

Things to Do in London

Culture, Shopping, Dining & Experiences in the Capital

For this most recent visit, you can find my itinerary here, which details the things we had planned to do.

After checking in at the hotel, and our suite already ready by noon (one of the VIP perks often available to clients), we popped out for some lunch and shopping, before I headed off to Damu Spa, at The Mandrake Hotel, literally just a block away from The Sanderson. The hotel is in such a perfect location just off Oxford Street in Fitzrovia, with so many shopping, dining, theatre, spa and things to do options right on the doorstep.

Damu Spa London

Although there are numerous rejuvenating treatments available—ranging from immersive rituals like The Mud Caves, The Origin Pool, and the serene Tranquillity Space, to transformative facial and body therapies powered by MZ SKIN (Dr. Maryam Zamani’s Glow-restoring three-step line), holistic massages, and advanced skin technology procedures such as BBL Heroic, Moxi, and Dermapen microneedling—on this visit I chose to experience The Origin Pool. This multisensory treatment combines zero-gravity floatation, sound therapy, chromotherapy, and vibration healing in warm Epsom salt water for deep physical, mental, and cellular recalibration.

I’ve shared my full review of my afternoon at DAMU Spa here, so do look out for that post if The Origin Pool sounds like the kind of holistic treatment you’d like to try for yourself.

Evita at The London Palladium

Although the run has now finished, we were there on the very last night, and it was such an experience. We had actually visited outside the theatre the evening before, on our way back from dinner at Yeni, to see the famous balcony scene. Much like Sunset Boulevard with Nicole Scherzinger (produced by the same team, Jamie Lloyd Company), where part of the performance spills out beyond the theatre itself (we saw that at The Savoy Theatre), Evita had Rachel Zegler appear on the Palladium balcony as Eva Perón, as if addressing her supporters in Argentina. This worked brilliantly. We thought it was busy on the Friday evening, but seeing it again from inside the theatre during the finale made us realise just how much more packed it was. Experiencing this element from “both sides” was unforgettable. Adding to the excitement, we noticed Julian Clary just a few rows in front of us—and Andrew Lloyd Webber himself was also in the audience.

V&A Museum East Storehouse, Stratford

The following morning, after a leisurely breakfast at The Sanderson, we headed east to Stratford for a pre-planned visit to the new V&A East Storehouse. This striking cultural hub offers a behind-the-scenes look at over 250,000 objects from the museum’s collection, set within a vast, light-filled warehouse that blends exhibition, archive, and creative space all in one.

Such a different take on what a museum can be, the V&A East Storehouse feels more like stepping into the living archives of design than a traditional gallery. Instead of the ornate grandeur of the original V&A in South Kensington, with its marble halls and curated displays, here you wander through vast industrial spaces where more than 250,000 objects are stored, studied, and shared in plain sight. It’s part exhibition, part behind-the-scenes tour — a refreshingly open, modern approach that complements the historic richness of the main V&A across London.

It was so easy to get there -  a quick walk to Tottenham Court Station for the Elizabeth Line to Stratford, immediately adjacent to the Westfield Stratford City Shopping Mall. We had a walk around there before heading back to the station again for the Mildmay Overground for just the one stop to Hackney Wick, and then from there a leisurely 10 minute walk to the V&A.

There was a good café on the ground floor of the VA (as well as toilets etc. and lockers where you had to store all bags), but there was also another café just opposite in another building. We then went up to the second floor, to The Study Centre, to check in, having ordered some Edinburgh Weavers fabrics by Keith Vaughan. Any orders have to be done I think at least two weeks in advance of your visit, so they can be removed from storage as necessary.

When you arrive for your Order an Object appointment at the V&A East Storehouse, head to the Study Centre for check-in. You’ll be asked to wash your hands, may receive protective gloves, and then a member of the Collections Access team will guide you to your object-handling space. Be prepared for a thoughtful introduction into how to safely engage with the items you’ve chosen.
After we had viewed our selected objects, we were free to explore the rest of this extraordinary collection. We encountered an eclectic mix—from Mughal architectural fragments and vintage Vivienne Westwood jackets to sections of Robin Hood Gardens, along with faithful recreations of historic interiors like the Frank Lloyd Wright Kaufmann Office and the ornate 15th-century Torrijos ceiling suspended overhead. These immersive moments—walking through design history in living form—made the experience feel unlike any conventional museum visit.

Le Grand Bus

Having done an afternoon tour years ago aboard a vintage Routemaster with Brigit’s Bakery, I was curious to try Le Grand Bus—a far more refined alternative. Unlike the familiar charm of the old open-top bus, Le Grand offers a plush, boutique-hotel-on-wheels experience. We indulged in the Best of London tour, stepping onto a red-carpet welcome and settling into sumptuously upholstered seating with panoramic windows, gourmet à-la-carte menus curated by Robuchon, and a multilingual audio guide elevating every stop—from Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey to Trafalgar Square. (Le Grand also offers a Tower of London itinerary, which journeys from Piccadilly past St Paul’s, across Tower Bridge, and into the City for a heritage-rich perspective of London’s historic heart.)

I would recommend this 110% as it’s such a wonderful way to experience London, and for me (despite having visited dozens of times, and already having seen all of these sights more than once) it was really good seeing how each area was connected to one another. Our normal means of getting around in London tends to be The Tube, so while good for transport, you lose being above ground to see what areas connect with other areas. The seating and table were so well organised with safety holders for drinks and champagne glasses, and it really felt quite indulgent being served champagne on a sofa in such a great environment.

My only negative comments were that I might have expected more comfortable and better-quality headphones (something like Bose or Bang & Olufsen), and the cost of food was expensive for what was literally a bite-sized afternoon tea. On the plus side, having the on-board WC (albeit ultra-compact) felt more like being in a hotel than on a coach or bus.

Where to Stay in London

London’s hotel scene is as diverse as the city itself — from iconic grande dames like The Ritz, Claridge’s, The Langham, and The Landmark to contemporary lifestyle retreats such as The Emory and the glamorous Hotel Café Royal. Whether you prefer the discreet elegance of Mayfair, the creative energy of Soho, or the heritage charm of Marylebone, there’s a perfect base for every style of traveller.

Why Book with The Private Traveller

When you book through me, in partnership with Fora Travel, you’ll enjoy exclusive VIP perks at many of London’s leading hotels: complimentary breakfast, room upgrades on availability, early check-in and late check-out, plus $100 dining or spa credits. I’ll also provide my curated Best of London guide — packed with insider tips on museums, restaurants, spas, and experiences — so your stay feels seamless and tailored from start to finish.

Your Weekly Edit of Luxury Travel Inspiration

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First Time in Oslo: A City and a Fjord Full of Surprises

With this being my first visit to Oslo — and indeed to Norway — I was eager to craft a trip that paired great places to stay with a deeper sense of place. I researched some of the best things to do and, unsurprisingly, one of the top experiences was to see the Oslofjord from the water.

📍 You can explore my full Oslo luxury hotel itinerary here:
👉 Luxury Oslo Hotel Itinerary – Amerikalinjen, Sommerro & The Thief

The Oslofjord (Norwegian: Oslofjorden) is a beautiful 100–120 km long inlet that connects the city to the Skagerrak Strait and the North Sea. Technically not a glacial fjord, but rather a flooded rift valley, it’s a scenic and serene way to experience Oslo’s coastal geography.

Quiet Cruising: A Fully Electric Boat with TheFjords

I quickly landed on a peaceful and sustainable option — a fully electric cruise by TheFjords, part of Norway’s Best. What appealed most:

• No loudspeaker commentary

• Five daily departures from 10am to 6pm

• A 90-minute itinerary at great value

• Quiet, clean and eco-friendly travel

Even better? The boat departed just 5–10 minutes' walk from my first Oslo hotel, Amerikalinjen, so I chose the 10am sailing to kick off the day in style.

Your Own Audio Guide: Listen or Don’t — It’s Up to You

Before travelling, I downloaded the Get Your Guide app and found a handy self-guided commentary that matched the cruise route. Once on board, I simply tapped through the landmarks on the interactive map and played each section as we passed it.

Highlights included:

• Hovedøya

• Akershus Fortress

• The Nobel Peace Centre

• Bygdøy and its museums

• Holmenkollen & Frognerseteren

• Dyna Lighthouse

• DS Donau

• Bjørvika & Barcode District

Each segment was concise and well-produced — and if you wanted peace and quiet, you could just skip it altogether.

Sunshine, Prosecco & the Best Views on Board

The boat was sleek and beautifully designed, with:

• Spacious indoor seating on the lower level

• A café offering Prosecco, soft drinks, snacks, ice cream, and more

• Tiered viewing decks across multiple levels

• Easy access ramps and plenty of room to move about

While everyone rushed for the top deck, I found that the middle level at the front offered the most uninterrupted views.

The weather was flawless: warm, sunny skies with a light breeze from the water. I stayed outside for most of the journey, but ducked inside for a glass of fizz and a well-earned bar of chocolate.

“Once You’ve Seen One Fjord…” — I Don’t Think So

On the way back, I overheard an American tourist comment, “Once you’ve seen one fjord, you’ve seen ’em all.” I couldn’t disagree more.

Seeing Oslo from the water gave me a whole new perspective. It was peaceful, insightful, and full of stories you wouldn’t discover on foot. From island summer homes to wartime history, I learned more about Oslo on that one cruise than I expected — and on my own terms.

Where I Stayed: Oslo’s Best Luxury Hotels

This cruise was just one part of a thoughtfully designed itinerary that included three of the city’s most stylish places to stay:

• Amerikalinjen – Boutique heritage near the central station

• Sommerro – Glamorous Art Deco with a rooftop pool

• The Thief – Contemporary design on the waterfront

Explore the full guide here:
👉 Read the Oslo Hotel Itinerary

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Let’s Chat

Have you cruised the Oslofjord or stayed in any of Oslo’s design hotels? I’d love to hear your thoughts — or help you plan your next Nordic escape. Drop a comment below or reach out to start planning

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Ask The Private Traveller

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As part of our luxury Edinburgh staycation, we spent a Saturday night aboard Fingal, the floating hotel in Leith known for its sleek interiors and maritime charm. After a peaceful night's sleep and a leisurely breakfast in Fingal's restaurant, we set off for the Royal Yacht Britannia, just a short stroll away. As Fingal guests, we were offered complimentary tickets to tour the yacht, and we couldn’t think of a better way to spend our Sunday morning before checkout.

This wasn’t my first time aboard Britannia—but it had been many years. I remembered visiting when she was in a temporary location before Ocean Terminal was completed. Returning now, I was impressed by how beautifully maintained she is. Everything felt more polished and thoughtfully presented.

A Self-Guided Tour with a Personal Touch

Follow in royal footsteps with a relaxed, audio-led journey through maritime history.

On arrival, we picked up audio handsets for a self-guided tour, with numbered markers placed throughout the ship. Each section revealed a different aspect of royal life at sea: from the officers’ quarters and engine room to the Queen’s sitting room and the State Dining Room, where heads of state were once hosted in classic British style.

The ship is laid out over multiple decks, and the route is easy to follow. The audio guide was informative without being overly detailed, and it allowed us to explore at our own pace. I particularly appreciated how the tour gave insight not just into the grandeur, but also into the daily life of the Royal Family and crew while at sea.

Elegant, Understated Interiors

Experience the quiet luxury of the Queen’s private retreat at sea.

Walking through the State Drawing Room, Royal Bedrooms, and sun-filled decks, we were struck by how personal the spaces felt. The decor is tasteful and homey—far from the opulence one might expect. It was easy to imagine the Queen relaxing here during long voyages. The engine room, on the other hand, is a pristine display of maritime engineering and has clearly been meticulously preserved.

Our tour concluded with a stop at the Royal Deck Tea Room, a lovely space where we paused for a moment before heading back to Fingal to check out. It was a peaceful and fitting end to the visit.

A Perfect Pairing with Fingal

From historic yacht to luxury floating hotel—two distinct maritime icons, side by side.

What makes the experience special is how seamlessly it complements a stay aboard Fingal. While Britannia captures the legacy of royal service at sea, Fingal reinterprets that tradition in a more contemporary, guest-focused way. Fingal’s luxurious suites and elegant common areas feel like a natural continuation of the story you’ve just experienced aboard the yacht.

To read more about our Fingal stay, see the full hotel review here or explore the complete Edinburgh luxury staycation itinerary.

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Our Top 10 Modernism Week 2025 Events: Tours, Talks, and Exclusive Experiences

This year I had booked ten different Modernism Week events, a mix of lectures/talks in the Annenberg Theatre (part of the Palm Springs Art Museum, house tours and a cocktail party at the Steve McQueen house. Read on to find out what we did, and what I thought of each event.

I’ve listed these as 1 to 10, but this was the order in which we experienced each event, not prioritised though some we enjoyed more than others.

1. Mies in Brno, Beyond the Glass Room:

Restoring Villa Tugendhat

Our first talk of Modernism Week 2025 at the Annenberg Theatre, given by the current Director of Villa Tugendhat  Iveta Černá.

The story behind the villa’s design and build was an interesting one, built in 1928 in Brno in the Czech Republic, but thank goodness for some really nice pictures as the presentation itself felt like it hadn’t been rehearsed at all. Unfortunately she kept losing her place, would be talking about one thing with pictures of something else on screen, and overall just felt like she was doing someone else’s speech (with extremely disorganised notes) in a foreign language. Disappointing for our first event.

2. Keynote Presentation:

Dr. Raymond Neutra–Survival Through Design

This was totally different from the first presentation by Richard Neutra’s son, Raymond. He talked about his background and growing up in that environment, and featured some of the incredible houses his father had designed, including the spectacular Kauffman House in Palm Springs. He also went on to talk about the creation of the Neutra Foundation - Institute for Survival Through Design, which he has been working on over the last five years.

The bulk of the hour was him talking (and he’s now 86 years old) and it was really interesting and well worth the visit. What was a bit disappointing was at the end there was a live interview by Modernism Week board member, Frances Anderton, leading a moderated discussion and Q&A session. As this turned out, it seemed to be all about her and she spent 90% of the time introducing herself and her views of things, with minimal interaction from the interesting speaker, Dr. Raymond Neutra. It would have been far better just having a moderator to allow some questions from the audience, and hearing more from Raymond himself.

3. PS ModCom "King of Cool" Soiree:

at the Steve McQueen Residence

We had done one of these cocktail parties before - Sunday Night at the Twin Palms Estate Frank Sinatra House, and this was a not dissimilar format albeit a different house and different location. Following directions on the tickets, we found ourselves being left by the Uber driver at a rather dark and unoccupied address. After a few moments it became clear that we weren’t the only people thinking this was the right address, as numerous cars were driving by, then stopping to ask if we knew directions which we didn’t. I hadn’t thought to check emails, as I’m normally fastidious about checking and reading all emails, but after quite a few people kept stopping, eventually one couple mentioned something about an email with a change of location, but then just left us there in the dark and without transport.

Thankfully, I then found the email, and a very nice couple from Chicago who had a second home in Palm Springs (where they spend the winters to avoid the harsh Chicago climate) offered to take us. Once we got to where we should have been, there was a quick check-in and then small coaches transported groups of partygoers up to the Southridge (gated) community just a short distance away. The Steve McQueen house is one of just 22 houses built in this hillside exclusive neighbourhood, and young architect Hugh Kaptur was hired by builder Thomas A. Griffing to build a cantilevered steel and glass home. This wasn’t originally for Steve McQueen, but he bought it from the original owner in 1969 and kept it until 1976.

There was a bar with a choice of cocktails, mocktails and wine/prosecco; but it was only later on we realised they also had other spirits too so reverted to a classic gin & tonic. Food was provided by Eight4Nine, the restaurant in downtown Palm Springs that we’ve been to a few times before. There was a selection of canapes being brought around (though nothing vegetarian) and some mini-dishes of cheese and meats on small platters from a display table. There were then two massive bowls of pasta; one chicken and one mushroom, so I just had to make the best of avoiding any of the mushrooms from the vegetarian option. I must say the food was a bit disappointing (the last time at the Sinatra Estate, it was Lulu that provided the food, which was a freshly made to order pasta station), but it was a lovely evening of unlimited cocktails, open access to all of the house and grounds, and we met quite a few interesting guests.

4. Palm Springs Modernism Show

A Timeless Showcase of Mid-Century Design and Iconic Style

We had been to this before on our first Modernism Week visit in 2020, but with this only be on for the first weekend, in 2022 we had missed it, deciding to come later in the week as we had to spend a week first in Mexico before coming to the US (Covid rules at the time). From what we both remembered though, this had been an amazing show however we were quite disappointed this time. Still a good show, and some nice pieces and exhibits, but overall not spectacular. The highlight probably, and which would have been free, was the display of new AirStream trailers and RVs that parked out the front of the Palm Springs Convention Center. We had loved our last visit getting to the Vintage Trailer Show, but this year we’re in Joshua Tree by the time of that event (usually the second weekend of Modernism Week).

5. The Griffing and Goldberg Residences:

PS ModCom Iconic Home Tour

I hadn’t initially appreciated that this was a tour of two adjacent houses, but Southridge is home to one of the most exclusive and historic estates in Palm Springs, and was actually just a few metres up from where we had been the night before for the Steve McQueen soiree. The first, the Griffing Residence, was bought by an architect (Susan Secon Jensen) and her husband in 2014.

We thought this was nice, but when we went next door to the Goldberg Residence, that took it to a whole new level. This was initially designed in 1962 as a spec house by William F. Cody. It was purchased by Chicago industrialist and inventor Stanley Goldberg, who then rehired Cody along with designer Arthur Elrod to expand the floor plan, incorporating many distinctive and glamorous features. Designer Michael Johnston and Broadway lyricist David Zippel purchased the house in 2016 and began an extensive restoration based on Cody’s original plans. Absolutely stunning and definitely our favourite of the two.

6. Ceramics for the Modern Landscape:

The Story of the Architectural Pottery Company

This was one more for ‘Mrs’ TPT as he’s really into ceramics, so hearing all about this was a highlight, and he had already bought the book before we came here. The talk should have been by three of the co-authors - Daniel Chavkin, Jeffrey Head, and Jo Lauria; however Jeffrey wasn’t able to attend and therefore Jo also read out his part of the talk, as well as doing her own. Modernism Week have organised a private tour bus excursion to the American Museum of Ceramic Art (AMOCA) in Pomona where the collection is on show. This would have been something he would have wanted to do, to really bring the book to life and the photos that we saw during the talk, but we actually plan to stop by the museum on our way back to LAX from Joshua Tree.

7. CoCo Cabana:

Designed for Gracious Living

This now condominium complex, Co Co Cabana was originally built in 1955 as a garden apartment hotel. This was converted from the hotel in 1977, at which point some extra apartments were added. With it being the 70th anniversary, eight condominiums were open to the public as part of Modernism Week in 2025, including the one and only three-bedroom at the front which was the original owner’s (number 1) apartment.

After we had seen a mix of originals (numbers 6 and 8 were two hotel suites converted into a one bedroom condo) we also saw “new” that were 1970’s and then they had provided some drinks poolside. They all varied in style and design, some much nicer than others, and it was good to meet some of the owners who used the condos as second homes, with some being rented out too.

8. Fallingwater’s Edgar Kaufmann, jr.:

The Life and Legacy of a Modern Movement Tastemaker

The Director of Fallingwater, Justin Gunther, talked through not only the history behind the world-famous house near Pittsburgh, but also of the Kauffmann family including Edgar Kaufmann Junior and their original department store, as well as the choice of Frank Lloyd Wright as the architect. The story continued right up to the building of the new (Mr) Kaufmann (Desert) House in Palm Springs by Richard Neutra. Justin was a great presenter, and the talk was extremely engaging with some amazing photos shown on screen. This was up there with the Raymond Neutra talk (son of Richard) but thankfully at the end when there was time for questions this was just direct from the audience, without another guest presenter.

9. Working in Tranquility:

Landscapes, Interiors and the Modernist Corporate Campus

This was our final talk at the Annenberg for the week, and actually one of the least attended. Most of the rows were blocked off so that the first few rows were filled. Attending the "Working in Tranquility: Landscapes, Interiors, and the Modernist Corporate Campus" presentation at the Annenberg Theater in Palm Springs was an enlightening experience. The discussion delved into the post-war Modernist corporate campus movement, highlighting the collaborative efforts of renowned designers who crafted serene environments to attract sophisticated professionals. A focal point was Hideo Sasaki's philosophy of integrating architecture with natural landscapes, creating restorative spaces that harmonize with nature and foster human interaction. The conversation, led by Liz Waytkus of Docomomo US, alongside James Miner and Amy Auscherman, provided profound insights into the legacy and future of these iconic campuses. This event deepened my appreciation for the thoughtful design principles that continue to influence modern workspaces.

10. James Logan Abernathy Residence Tour:

An Exclusive Look Inside a Mid-Century Architectural Masterpiece

This was our last house tour, and probably the one we both thought was best. Situated in the Old Movie Colony District, The James Logan Abernathy Residence in Palm Springs is a stunning example of mid-century modern architecture, designed by William F. Cody in 1962. Characterized by its pavilion-style structure, the home features a unique pinwheel layout with L-shaped wings extending from a central pavilion. Its seamless indoor-outdoor connection, achieved through expansive glass walls and an extended pergola, embodies the quintessential desert modernist aesthetic. Recognized for its architectural significance, the residence was designated a Class 1 Historic Site by the city of Palm Springs in 2013.

Featured recently by Robb Report, this five bedroom seven bathroom house is currently for sale at a mere $12.9m; which is extremely expensive but it is an incredible house. Some of the doors were blocked off and not accessible as part of the tour (and no interior photography) was allowed, but this must have been the other bedrooms and bathrooms as we only saw two bedrooms as part of the tour.

Plan Your Own Modernism Week Experience with The Private Traveller

Modernism Week in Palm Springs is an unforgettable celebration of design, architecture, and culture – and there’s no better way to experience it than with a tailored luxury itinerary. Whether you're drawn to iconic mid-century homes, exclusive events, or hidden gems, let The Private Traveller help you curate your perfect trip. From securing the best accommodations to personalised recommendations, book your next luxury getaway with us through Fora Travel and enjoy exclusive perks like room upgrades, early check-in, late check-out, $100 credit, and complimentary breakfast. Ready to start planning? Contact us today and let’s create your dream Palm Springs escape!

Discover Flavourful Dishes in Edinburgh’s Vibrant Leith Walk, with BYOB

Leith Walk in Edinburgh has undergone a significant transformation, evolving into a vibrant hub where modern eateries and stylish developments seamlessly blend with the area’s rich cultural heritage, reflecting a wave of urban renewal. Many years ago, other than probably Valvona & Crolla (which was established in Elm Row of Leith Walk back in 1934, and opened a Caffe Bar in 1996; Leith Walk would not have been on our radar for dining options. Certainly with the introduction of the tram line going right down the middle of it (albeit causing a lot of disruption as you will read below), has helped change this long street and recently we have visited quite a few boutique interesting restaurants and had some great dining experiences here. Cilantro (another word for the coriander plant) has now been clearly added to that list.

The Private Traveller’s Restaurant Review

Ambiance and Dining Experience

There are just seats for 20 diners here, across a mix of tables for 2 and 4. It’s a small space but nicely and simply designed, with all the tables at the front, some in the window area out to Leith Walk, a bar area and the kitchen at the back. Service was quick and attentive, but clearly the focus here is on the food, from both a quality and value for money perspective.

Extensive Menu and Delectable Choices

As a long-time vegetarian (‘Mrs’ TPT isn’t, so it’s always a good dining comparison when reviewing restaurants so we can both try out different menu options) I love seeing a menu where there is an extensive vegetarian selection, and Cilantro definitely excelled here. As well as the selection of both vegetarian starters (all options were marked as either containing gluten, nuts, dairy; or suitable for vegans), there were Tandoori, Balti, and Biryani dishes alongside Cilantro’s spice classics & specialities, then a whole array of both vegetarian and vegan options. Add to that sides, rice dishes, breads, raitha, poppadoms & chutney; I’m sure there is something here for everyone.

Highlights from Our Meal:

• While Perusing the Menu: Plain poppadoms & mango chutney.

• Starters: I opted for the Sabzi Pakora (deep fried balls of gram flour with mixed vegetables and a spicy sauce), while ‘Mrs’ TPT chose the Chicken Pakora (sliced breast of chicken coated  in a traditional spiced batter).

• Mains: I picked the Cilantro Bhindi Masala (a semi-dry curry made with okra, herbs, onions, tomatoes & fresh cilantro) for me and the Butter Chicken (chicken tikka in yoghurt & ground herbs) for him.

• Sides: We shared a pilau rice and a plain naan between us.

Portions were a really good size, deliciously prepared made-to-order and served piping hot. With starters around £8-10, and mains from £13-22, this was also I felt exceptional value for such quality.

BYOB (Bring Your Own…)

Cilantro does not have an alcohol licence, but it’s so easy to take any drinks of your choice with a small corkage charge applied. There is a Sainsbury’s directly opposite and a Tesco Metro just a few metres up the road, so very easy to buy wine, beer, or in my case a couple of pink gin & tonics en route.

The Private Traveller’s View

I had wanted to visit earlier in the year at the time of the Scran Awards, but hadn’t been able to. As a vegetarian, and a lover of spicy foods, I always like to try out new (Indian) restaurants among others, and Cilantro more than lived up to expectations. It’s unassuming from the outside, and of course from my explanation of Leith Walk above, might not be on a tourist’s go-to list of Edinburgh destinations, but I would highly, highly recommend this if you’re a lover of Bangladeshi and Indian food .

Visit Cilantro

You can find Cilantro at 4 Albert Place, Leith Walk, EH7 5HN. It's open seven days a week, from 4pm until late (closing times vary so best to check online). It’s easy to book a table online, or you can also order take away too through WhatTheFork.  With it being such a small restaurant, I would definitely book in advance. When we visited, there was a queue of people waiting to dine as we entered, and again on leaving. For more details, visit their website at Cilantro Restaurant.

The Scotsman Scran Awards

Held in June 2024, featuring 18 categories, under the category of Hidden Gem (Edinburgh, Fife & East), Cilantro was a finalist alongside another restaurant I recently featured (and actually won the award) which was The Radhuni. You can find that review here. To be a finalist as one of only three was still great acclaim for Cilantro.

Authentic Review by The Private Traveller

The Private Traveller was a guest of Cilantro, and was facilitated by Julia Thornton of Hotel PR. All views and opinions however are totally independent; I’d rather say nothing at all than something I didn’t believe in..

Uncovering Mahe: Beyond Beaches – Culture, Nature, and Hidden Treasures

On this trip, it’s my fourth time to the beautiful Seychelles islands (actually an archipelago of some 115 islands in total), with the three main islands, in order of (descending) size being Mahé, Praslin, then La Digue. Although I’ve stayed on Mahé before (at Constance Ephelia) this was Christmas time and a relatively short stay at the end of a trip to other islands. So, to be honest I hadn’t really seen much of the main Mahé island, other than flying over it multiple times, whether this was arriving on departing on international flights, taking inter-island flights with Air Seychelles, or helicopter rides with Zil Air to some resorts directly.

This time, staying first for five nights on Mahé (at a Mason’s Travel owned hotel, Carana Beach) the Seychelles Tourism Board helped correct that anomaly, and organised a wonderful day out taking in many of the sites of the capital island. We found out from Gilly (our great driver and guide for the day) that about 75% of the islands’ economy comes from tourism, and that they were first discovered in 1502, became independent in 1976 (and actually we missed the annual Independence Day celebrations this year by just a day), joining the Commonwealth in 1991 when the islands had their first multi-party elections.

A Day Trip to the Capital, Victoria

Our first stop for the day was into the capital, Victoria, where we first walked to see the little Big Ben clock, which had been built (in part with what seemed to be very early crowd-funding) to commemorate the passing of Queen Victoria in 1901, the islands still being a British Colony at that time. This was completed in 1903.  

We then walked around to The Immaculate Conception Cathedral or simply called the Cathedral of Victoria, with its adjacent clock tower and a really interesting old building which is still used by the monks of the Cathedral. The Cathedral itself had the most amazing stained glass windows throughout, and some incredibly intricate and depictive carved wooden doors.

Although much simpler in style, we then walked back to the Anglican church of St. Paul, which was elevated to the status of a cathedral by Bishop Alan Francis Rogers of Mauritius. The Anglican diocese of Victoria was established on 3rd April 1973. Next to this was the Hindu Temple, which we were also able to get into as long as you took off your shoes, and it was interesting to see the various shrines inside and all the decorations.

Victoria (Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke) Market

As I understand it, this is closed on a Sunday but open every other day of the week. It’s not a huge market, but is indeed a  bustling, colourful marketplace featuring fresh local produce (fish, meats, fruits and vegetables) along with spices, some handicrafts & souvenirs. Built in 1840 and renovated in 1999, it remains the bustling heart of the capital and definitely the best place to buy fresh fruits, fish, vegetables and spices. We then had a bit of drive (although it was great seeing scenery pass us by, being driven by our excellent drive and guide for the day, Gilly,

Mission Lodge, Morne Seychellois National Park (which peaks at 905m high)

Close to the highest point you can reach on Mahé by road, Mission Lodge has a superb lookout with spectacular views of central Mahé and the west coast, and some low-slung stone ruins slowly returning to the forest (a school was built here by the London Missionary Society in the 19th century to care for slave children who had been dumped on the island after the abolition of slavery). Queen Elizabeth II took tea in the small pavilion in 1972 during her first Royal visit. Unfortunately when we were there, although there were only a few spots of rain, the weather did close in a bit so we didn’t get the most panoramic views, albeit you could see that it was still extremely sunny down on the ground around Victoria and the harbours, so still decent for views.

On the way driving up and down, we passed some of the hiking trails that you can take in the Morne Seychellois National Park (and saw a good waterfall), so the Seychelles are definitely not just about fabulous beaches. There is a lot of history and nature too! We then drove back down from the mountain, literally the weather improving the lower we got, and by the time we got to the Botanical Gardens, the sun was back out and was quite a few degrees warmer again, and much more humid.

National Botanical Gardens

Wherever we go in the world, with ‘Mrs’ The Private Traveller being such a keen gardener and horticulturist, we often visit Botanic Gardens and they can be a great day out for a walk, and inspect local plants. 

The gardens were nothing like the size of, say, Singapore, but there were plenty of areas to walk around and appreciate a lot of the endemic plants and trees of the Seychelles. The main avenue as you enter was lined with palms and to the left a spices and scents garden area, which even I could get a sense of, with my reduced sense of smell post Covid, now some 3 years on.

After a good walk around the gardens and a fair bit of time spent in the giant Aldabra tortoise pen (where you could get in amongst them to feed), with excellent guiding from the extremely knowledgeable Gilly, we had a quick pit stop at the very nice gardens cafe, the Wildflour Café. We were going on to lunch elsewhere, so we didn’t have anything to eat, albeit there was a really good menu and excellent looking food from what we could see of other diners, but I opted for a house cocktail, the aptly named Wildflour. This was a delicious mix of Gordon’s pink gin served generously over ice, with tonic for a floral and citrusy cocktail. 

One word of advice, this was probably the only time on the island of Mahé that we felt we were getting bitten, so we did buy a roll-on repellent from the café, but better advice would be too take your own and apply before your visit, or go first to the café to purchase one. By the time we had applied it, only a few nibbles had been taken, so it wasn’t too bad!

Eden Island

From the Botanical Gardens, we went onto Bravo Restaurant for lunch, located next to the Eden Island shopping complex. Despite having passed over it a number of times on flights, this was actually the first time ever stepping onto the reclaimed land of Eden Island.

We had a good lunch (an unusual concept of being both an Italian and Japanese sushi restaurant, but it worked well) and afterwards had a quick walk around the mall, before stopping for an ice cream at one of the café outlets surrounding it overlooking one of the marinas.

After lunch we then were driven to the south of the island, and again a bit of an (altitude) climb to the Jardin Du Rio Spice Garden, a hilltop spice plantation with a small furnished house museum, nature trails & Creole restaurant.

Jardin Du Roi Spice Garden

This was a lot bigger than I was expecting, and again had great views but just wasn’t as high as the visit to Mission Lodge high up in the Morne Seychellois National Park. 

There were three specific walks/trails (Rainforest Trail, Garden Walk, and Medicinal Plant Walk), as well as two longer Ridge & Mountain Walks to either Baie Lazare or Gratte Fesses, both taking about an hour. We enjoyed walking around the various trails with Gilly, having lots of things pointed out like vanilla, lemongrass, nutmeg and lots more; and for detail you were provided with both a detailed map and also an extremely detailed booklet listing every plant, herb, or tree located throughout the gardens, all listed by and walk and easily identified by a number sign as you walked.

After we had a really good walk around, we visited their giant Aldabra tortoises, rabbits, hens, and guinea pigs before we headed back to the restaurant/cafe and enjoyed a cooling drink. I opted for lemongrass juice, with ‘Mrs’ TPT the more unusual, but delicious, lime juice with coconut.

Where to Stay in the Seychelles

On this trip we stayed first at Carana Beach Hotel on Mahé before flying by helicopter onto the island of Félicité (about a 20 minute journey) and Six Senses Zil Pasyon. 

Carana Beach was the second of the Mason's Travel owned hotels, the first being Denis Private Island which we visited a couple of years ago. Mason’s is a family-owned, local business. In 1972, Kathy Mason launched her own DMC with just one boat in St. Anne Marine Park. The launch coincided fortuitously with the start of direct air access to Seychelles International Airport in 1973.

We’ve also stayed at the Constance property on Mahé, Constance Ephelia, with their incredible hilltop villas. There are still quite a few other luxury properties on the main island that I would like to visit, so I know I will be back. It can be such a good combination twinning Mahé with some of the more remote islands.

By booking with The Private Traveller, you can enjoy (at some properties) a lot of extra VIP benefits like:

• Early check-in

• Late check-out

• A room or suite upgrade

• Free breakfast

• Free Wi-Fi

• Discounts off spa or experiences

• All are subject to availability

Please check out my hotel reviews of various properties in the Seychelles:

• Six Senses Zil Pasyon

• Carana Beach Hotel

• Constance Ephelia

• Denis Private Island

• Raffles Seychelles

As well as the hotels I have reviewed, as I’ve been visiting the Seychelles now for decades, there are hotels I’ve stayed at before when I didn’t have my website or was reviewing hotels. There are still so many more that I would like to visit, but if you do want to create your perfect Seychelles trip, please do reach out.

My overall impression as Mahé as a tourist destination

We had such a good day out, and it certainly made me realise that there is indeed so much more to the Seychelles than just beaches. We enjoyed seeing the sites of the capital Victoria, but it was also good to go up into the Morne Seychellois National Park and see the coastline from above, where there are various marine national parks surrounding the island. It was good to understand from Gilly, something we wouldn’t have otherwise realised, that there is also a focus on natural sustainability and an aim towards zero pollution and net zero by protecting the seagrass and mangroves areas that surround the airport area, which absorb carbon. Clearly tourism is a huge part of the economy and there must always be that conflicting view of encouraging more international flights and the building of new hotels and resorts, but balancing the focus on the environment.

There are so many islands in the Seychelles, with further hotels opening all the time, many on some of the more outlying islands that I would love to visit. It’s always such a welcoming country, the people are just amazing, so I think I can genuinely say that visiting the Seychelles can feel like a welcome home.

The Private (and ‘Mrs’) Traveller, were guests of the Seychelles Tourism Board. Thank you Karen and Ingride for your kind and meticulous planning and organisation.

Located just a 25-minute drive from the bustling heart of Edinburgh, The Radhuni is a hidden gem offering a truly authentic Indian dining experience. Named after the aromatic wild celery seed, the restaurant proudly showcases this symbol, embodying its unique identity and rich heritage.

Recognized Excellence: Scotsman’s Scran Awards Finalist

I was thrilled to learn that The Radhuni is one of three finalists in the Scotsman’s Scran Awards, under the Hidden Gem category for Edinburgh, Fife, & East Lothian. Competing alongside Cilantro on Leith Walk and Dhoom Indian Streetery & Cocktail Bar in Dunfermline, The Radhuni is currently open to public voting. The anticipation is building as the winner will be announced at the awards ceremony.

I asked Habibur Khan of The Radhuni, what winning this award would mean to him and his restaurant teams.

Ambiance and Dining Experience

Nestled in Loanhead, The Radhuni might appear modest from the outside, but stepping inside reveals a (tardis-like) spacious, vibrant dining area. The interior boasts jewel-colored decor, a bar area, and an enclosed garden for outdoor dining too. The seating options cater to all preferences, from intimate tables for couples to a large banquette perfect for groups.

Extensive Menu and Delectable Choices

While we were deciding what to order from the extensive menu (and in particular for me, an excellent range of vegetarian dishes for both starters and mains) we were served poppadoms with a selection of chutneys - mango, mixed pickle, and an onion salad; and I picked one of their premium gin selection, the Edinburgh Gin rhubarb and ginger, with tonic. The poppodoms were precisely crisp and dry, with that perfect ‘snap’ as you break into them!

The A La Carte menu is split up into both vegetarian and non-vegetarian starters; then for mains a whole array of Tandoori and Balti dishes, Radhuni classics and specialities, Vegetarian, Biryani, and a small selection of European options too. Add to this a choice of side and rice dishes, breads, and raita. A big selection but all foods are cooked fresh to order, and of course your server can help shape your best meal, wherever you sit on the spice scale. The A La Carte menu is also complemented by separate Takeaway, Lunch, and Sunday Banquet menus.

Highlights from Our Meal:

• Starters: I opted for the Dhal Puri (stuffed flatbread with spiced lentils), while ‘Mrs’ TPT chose the Haggis Pakora (spiced Lamb Haggis in traditional batter).

• Mains: I picked the Sabzi Sambar (mixed vegetables with lentils) for me and the Malayan Chicken (almonds, coconut, pineapple, fruit juices, and cream) for him.

• Sides: We shared a pilau rice and a plain naan between us.

The food was delicious throughout, presented well and service was attentive and friendly. Thankfully we were afforded a small break after enjoying our starters, and when we were ready for the mains the table was set up with a heated burner to keep our curries warmed throughout eating. Portions were large, and costs fair.

Dessert Options

If you’re looking for something sweet afterwards, there is also a good selection of desserts, and if I’d had room, it definitely would have been for the Toffee Twilight (dairy toffee and vanilla ice creams swirled with toffee sauce and topped with toffee pieces). We just didn’t have that room (we’d probably over-indulged in the poppadoms and chutneys) but we enjoyed the meal immensely.

The Private Traveller’s View

I can definitely see why The Radhuni has been nominated for this award - very high quality food and service in good surroundings, yet I’d say very much a hidden gem in its out of Edinburgh location and from such a small entrance front. I can attest to all the vegetarian options, and ‘Mrs’ TPT certainly enjoyed his non-vegetarian options too. Gives us more coverage of a menu and able to represent different types of diners.

Visit The Radhuni

You can find The Radhuni at 93 Clerk Street, Loanhead, EH20 9RE. It's open six days a week, closed on Mondays. Their sister restaurant, Itihaas, is located on Eskbank Road in Dalkeith. For more details, visit their website.

The Scotsman Scran Awards

The Scotsman Scran Awards will be held at Platform, Glasgow, on June 17, 2024, featuring 18 categories, including Newcomer of the Year, Best Gastro Pub, Best Craft Beer, Whiskey, & Spirit, and Scottish Restaurant of the Year. For more information, visit The Scottish Scran Awards 2024 by The Scotsman.

Authentic Review by The Private Traveller

The Private Traveller was a guest of Habibur Khan, Managing Partner of The Radhuni, and was facilitated by Hotel PR. All views and opinions however are totally independent; I’d rather say nothing at all than something I didn’t believe in.

We were initially staying for 3 nights at the Park Hyatt in Stone Town itself, before then travelling across the island to the other coast for another 5 nights at Xanadu Villas. Both very different hotels and locations, but exactly what we wanted from the contracts and very different experiences.

(1) Walk in Stone Town and visit the local markets

With staying at the Park Hyatt, Stone Town is literally on your doorstep. As soon as you’re out of the hotel entrance, you can either walk along the shoreline front, the beach, or walk through the back streets with interesting shops on your way to either some of the sites or the local markets.

(2) Freddie Mercury Museum

The Freddie Mercury Museum is located in the heart of Stone Town, Zanzibar. It is located in the same house where Freddie and his family stayed until they moved to England in 1963. This was literally only a couple of minutes walk from the Park Hyatt, where we were staying.

The Museum showcases a detailed accord of Zanzibar starting from the late 1800’s, the birth place of Farrokh Bulsara, his roots with the Zoroastrian Religion, his childhood and upbringing in Zanzibar, followed by his schooling in Panchgani, India, and then  his extraordinary  journey to becoming one of the greatest stars of all time.

(3) Private Culinary Discover of Zanzibar’s Spices

We had organised this through the hotel in advance of our arrival, and it was a good tour at only $45 per person on a private basis. We were met at the arranged pick up time of 10am in the hotel lobby by Ramadham, who would be our guide for the next two day’s outings, and taken to a waiting minivan with another driver. 

Although there had been a bit of a rain shower at breakfast, the sky had cleared at the coast, but as we went about 30 minutes inland, by the time we got to the spice farm it was torrential rain. Note to self and others, when visiting a spice farm famed for its red soil, and in a climate which is want to be quite variable, be better prepared for all eventualities and don’t wear new pure white New Balance trainers!

Even though we had umbrellas provided by the hotel, the rain was relentless so we stayed in the car for a while to see if it would go off. After one failed attempt when the rain seemed to lighten, our guide decided that instead we would go first to the fruit tasting area, which is probably where we would have walked to end up at, had we done the spice part first.

We tried all sorts of fruits, most of them familiar, like pineapple, cucumber (is it a fruit?), Jackfruit, mango, banana, watermelon, Seville orange, normal orange, pomelo (grapefruit), and saw durian fruit on the trees but didn’t taste (nor smell). Although just a shack by the side of the road, the guys there were well organised with bottled water, napkins etc. for us to wash out hands first, and when peeling/cutting the fruit they always cleaned the knives first and were very careful to not touch any of the fruit we were eating. We certainly had no side effects afterwards and it was a good way to pass the time while the rain stopped.

We could see there was the ubiquitous tip box, and there was also a large display area selling all sorts of spices etc. There were small baskets for you to pick up sachets of spices, and we selected four. First off they wanted to charge us $25 for these four, which was just ridiculous considering the cost they would have been at home. Feeling like we were still being ripped off, we agreed on $10 after our guide kept asking for the best price. I’m sure $10 was still well above the market rate, but he also got us to choose another two “free” spices.

After the rain had stopped, we then went across into the spice fields and saw a whole selection of herbs and spices including nutmeg, black pepper, cinnamon, coriander, cardamom, ginger, turmeric , and lemongrass. We seemed to also pick up another impromptu guide, presumably a farm worker who our guide despatched to pick some of the spices for us to test. At a point in the walk, there was another tourist trap moment where sellers had baskets of natural soaps and oils for sale. We felt we had to buy something, and again for two (very small bar) soaps it was going to be $25. We setted on $10 again, and were able to get a third soap “free”. Again I felt ripped off, but just felt like it was part of the experience!

Having left my Apple watch charger at home, we stopped by the Michenzani Mall on the way back to the hotel to try and find a new one, which we did. I had at one point thought it might be somewhere for lunch, but it wasn’t a mall by any international/US/UK standards, so we visited the chemist and an electrical store and that was it.

Good morning out, and good value even with the tourist rip offs. We paid $90 for the tour directly to the guide, an extra $10 tip for him and $5 each for the farm spice guide and our driver.

(4) Private Sandbank Snorkelling and Discovering Prison Island

Again this was another tour organised by the hotel in advance, and we had the same guide Ramadham. With having the option to visit both Prison Island (home to a lot of giant ancient Aldabra tortoises) and also a sandback for swimming or snorkelling, we didn’t need a car but a boat. With the Park Hyatt being perfectly located right on the beach, we just were able to walk out the back of the hotel down the beach and onto a waiting boat. We could have done either the sandbank or Prison Island first, we opted to visit Prison Island then go onto the sandback later.

Prison Island, which was never actually a prison but a quarantine island instead for those arriving from other countries with suspected inflections like yellow fever, bubonic plague and cholera was only a short boat ride away. There wasn’t a huge amount on the island, the hotel that was there is currently under renovation, but it’s still very much worth a visit. There is a tortoise park with giant Aldabra ones which had originally been a present from the Seychelles Islands. We’ve seen them there too on previous holidays, and they’re majestic creatures that can live for well over 100 years. Once we’ve gone around to see these (and including some tiny baby ones too in the nursery) we then went a short walk across the island to see some of the original buildings, which now house a restaurant, couple of bars, a small gift shop, and a museum. 

After we had visited the museum (not huge, but with some great photos) we decided to have a drink at the bar before moving on to the sandback as our next stop. At the Prison island bar, there was a good selection of local and international drinks, soft and alcoholic, but it did seem a bit of a rip off that a beer was either $5 or $7, and (what we had, a Tanqueray G&T and Coke Zero) was $16. Still it was a refreshing stop in what was relentless sun and did recognise that it would be the easiest to get supplies onto the island.

The cost of this trip was $120 ($60 per person, private basis again) and we topped this up with a $20 tip for our guide and $10 for the boat driver.

(5) Eat out and enjoy some great local restaurants

Stone Town Zanzibar

Zanzibar restaurant Park Hyatt

Zanzibar

Beach House (by the Park Hyatt Zanzibar)

My favourite hotel restaurant was the separate Beach House, literally just a few minutes away from the hotel. Right on the beach, it was a perfect location to watch the sun go down, with a fantastic selection of cocktails and great food.

Cape Town Fish Market Zanzibar

A good quality waterfront restaurant, on a pier very near the hotel. We actually went to the Cape Town Fish Market for lunch twice; not the most extensive selection for a vegetarian but ‘Mrs’ loved the fish options.

Emerson Spice Secret Garden

The Secret Garden was amazing - such a special courtyard location, excellent service and although we only had the one course (I had a vegetable biryani which was incredible with a naan style bread baked over the stone dish) we loved the experience. Excellent cocktails too

There are four options of dining as part of the Emerson group and we tried two of them. There are two rooftop restaurants, this Secret Garden (which was our favourite) and also a private dining option at Emerson on Humunzi.

Emerson on Humunzi Rooftop Tea House

I’d seen that they offered two rooftop dining experiences, one a fixed three course (which is what we went for at Humunzi Tea House) and another five course at Emerson Spice Hotel, which was more fish based. Both needed to be pre-booked (easy online, and they were quick to confirm the booking and then you pay a $10 deposit each). The idea is that dinner will be served at a fixed time (7pm), but that you should aim to arrive from say 6pm to enjoy the rooftop sunset.

At the Huminzi rooftop Tea House where we ate (remember there are two locations, not too far from each other, but we got them mixed up and went to the wrong one first) there are options of both standard table seating or carpeted floor/stool seating. Although the food was excellent, and they easily accommodated my vegetarian request, we still preferred the Secret Garden. Although it was good food and service, there was just something a bit lacking in atmosphere which was there in spades at the Secret Garden, despite neither being anywhere near full. I think if there had been candles or something on tables at the Tea House, or music played in between gaps of the musicians playing, this might have contributed to a better ambience.

Karafuu Coffee House

The Karafuu Coffee House was not somewhere we went to, but looked really stylish and somewhere that we would have liked to have tried. After visiting the Slave Museum and Anglican Cathedral, we did try and find this to have a drink, but got a bit lost and ended up back at the hotel sooner than we had expected.

Upendo Zanzibar

Again not somewhere we visited, but would have if we’d had more time. Upendo Zanzibar seemed to be a collection of boutique hotels, restaurants, and a nice looking shop which first drew my attention. Definitely one to explore on a future Stone Town stay.

(6) Spa treatments and therapies

I had a few great spa experiences, visiting both hotel spas at the Park Hyatt Zanzibar in Stone and then at Xanadu Villas in Dongwe next on the other side of the island. I also visited Cinnamon Spa, literally just opposite the Park Hyatt.  

Although all treatments were great, Cinnamon Spa having a wider choice of treatments available than the in-house spa at the Park Hyatt Zanzibar, my absolute favourite had to be the spa at Xanadu Villas.

(7) Maalum Zanzibar: Natural Swimming Pool

There were various tour options available to us from Xanadu Villas, but having done quite a few things when in Stone Town, we were opting just for a really relaxing time in the stunning villa or on the beach, as well as partaking of their excellent spa treatments.

The one thing we did want to do was to visit the nearby Maalum Caves, a natural swimming pool. We’ve been to Mexico a few times and never actually visited a Cenote there, so felt it was time to do it in Zanzibar. It was all organised for us by the hotel, and we were taken by hotel minivan (and our butler Lissu came along too), with towels and mineral water. The journey was only about 15 minutes from Xanadu, and we went direct to Maalum. Once checked in, we were taken to an area to change, with lockers provided for personal belongings. We then were escorted to a shoe change area, where we had to put on reef shoes provided as the entrance into the pool itself was incredibly slippery with algae. Knowing this, both of us still slipped on the way in, you really do need to be extremely careful. Once we had our shoes on, there was an area to shower and then we walked along the path to the pool.

Thankfully it wasn’t busy, and there were a maximum of another maybe 6 guests there at any one time, and at some point we were the only ones there which was great for photography. You can use a drone here, but it has to be pre-arranged. A good visit, then it was back to Xanadu for cocktails and snacks before dinner. Highly recommended and a very efficient set up at Maalum.

$20 for adults and $10 for children, can book online with various slots throughout each day of the week with 90 minute slots. 

My final thoughts on Zanzibar

As the sun sets on our journey through Zanzibar's wonders, it's clear that this mystical island has woven an enchanting tapestry of experiences. From the labyrinthine streets of Stone Town resonating with tales of the past to the crystalline waters teeming with marine life, each moment here feels like a stroke on a canvas, painting memories that linger long after the trip concludes. The seven remarkable activities we've explored merely scratch the surface of this captivating destination. Whether you find yourself lost in the spice-scented markets, immersed in the tranquillity of a secluded beach, or marvelling at the cultural mosaic that defines this island, Zanzibar stands as a testament to the beauty and diversity our world has to offer. As The Private Traveller bids farewell to this island paradise, we encourage you to embark on your own journey of discovery, ready to embrace the magic and allure of Zanzibar, leaving footprints in its sands and memories etched in your heart, awaiting your return to this mesmerising slice of heaven.

Comment below to share your thoughts and opinions.

Let me know what content you would like to see more of?

It was such an inspiring post, where he talked about the amazing crew working with him at Virgin like Otis, and also how Otis had helped him find the right audience for his own @CaptainChris account which has now rocketed (excuse the aircraft pun) to now (at last look) well over 110k followers. If you follow Captain Chris, you’ll see his incredible photography and videography (particularly like the ones with the invisible selfie-stick), get some amazing insights into what it’s been like as a pilot during the pandemic and generally the life of a pilot, plus, like the Otis story, an aerial view (sorry, couldn’t resist) of working at Virgin and travelling all over the world with the rest of the crew.

Addendum
I originally posted this interview in May 2021, at the height of Covid. Since then (now August 2023) Otis’ Instagram profile has multiplied exponentially and he now has a following of over 22,000 and produces such high quality travel inspiration content. Not only is he a great ambassador for Virgin Atlantic, he has now been promoted to Cabin Manager.

Who is Otis Dublin?

I’m originally from the Caribbean island of Montserrat and moved to the UK after our volcano erupted and unfortunately destroyed ¾ of the island. With that move, new opportunities arose and my life certainly took a different path to what it most probably would have taken had I still been in Montserrat.

I became a flight attendant at 18 years old, and my hobby on the side is creating travel content from around the world on social media. I’ve been fortunate to feature in TV commercials, and online advertising for the company, which has been a lot of fun. The mural in Manchester has definitely been the highlight but I absolutely loved filming the TV advert for our “Depart the everyday” campaign.

The Private Traveller was able to put some questions to Otis and this is what he had to say.

The Private Traveller was able to put some questions to Otis and this is what he had to say.

At the start of the initial UK lockdown (March 2020), did you ever anticipate that there would be such a dramatic impact on travel?

Honestly, I don’t think anyone could have anticipated the level of disruption to travel that we’ve faced over the past year. It was definitely a hard time for so many of us.

In speaking with Captain Chris, it was clear that the mix between cargo and commercial flights changed dramatically in the lockdown period, but how did this affect you - I assume no cabin crew are needed on cargo flights?

Cabin crew are in fact needed on cargo flights. Many people don’t realise that our primary reason for being on board any aircraft is to ensure safety – not just of customers, but the aircraft as well, and this includes when customers aren’t onboard. On cargo flights the pilots will still be busy in the flight deck, so we’re the eyes and ears in the cabin to make sure that everything in the cabin is running smoothly.

I assume a lot of cabin crew have had to be furloughed for long periods of time - has this been the case with you? What’s kept you occupied?

Yes a lot of cabin crew were furloughed, myself included. I kept busy by working on my travel content creation and learning Spanish. Spanish is a beautiful language.

What was your journey to Virgin, had you always wanted to fly? What came first - the love of travel or becoming cabin crew?

Great question. I started flying for an airline called bmi (some will remember it as British Midland). I stayed there for a year, but my dream was always to work for Virgin. 

From ever since I could remember, my passion has always been planes and travelling. My goal has always been to be a pilot actually, but I had put that on pause to save money for the pilot training. Whilst saving I decided to do the next best thing, which was to become a flight attendant, that way I’d still get to be on planes and travel all the time. So definitely the passion for travel came first.

How long did you have to train for, and I assume now you still have to undertake regular training and safety updates?

My initial training was approximately 6 very intense weeks. Once a year we have to complete a “recurrent” (refresher) course to make sure our knowledge and skills are still up to date. This includes theory and practical drills.

What’s better - a completely full flight which presumably means you never have a minute spare, or being less busy?

I love a full flight actually. It keeps us busy and going, especially on a long flight, but a less busy flight is sometimes a little gift ;) Customers love it being less busy too.

Clearly fitness is a big part of your life, how do you find you’re able to fit in training when your schedule must be disrupted by working unusual hours and travelling to so many different locations?

The great thing about hotels is that the vast majority of them have a gym, so even when I’m abroad I’m able to keep up with my workout routine, even if sometimes I’m a little tired from the flight, or the bar seems to be the better option.

On your amazing Instagram posts, you have a few where you’re flying British Airways? Is there rivalry between the two companies, or not generally between cabin crew?

Lol, friendly rivalry never hurt anyone. Obviously my number 1 choice will always be to fly Virgin when on holiday, but we don’t fly to all the destinations in the world, so sometimes you’ve got to go with the next best thing right? But seriously, as crew we always look after each other, no matter the airline. It’s an unwritten rule.

I think Instagram can be so good for starting conversations, seeing the link in the Captain Chris post to you started a conversation between us about Zanzibar, somewhere I have always wanted to visit. Of all your instagram posts, which is your favourite post and why?

That’s a tough one, but I’d say my time in Zanzibar was just incredible. It’s such a beautiful, scenic island with incredible beaches, great food and friendly locals. My photo with the Maasai definitely stands out in my mind. I captioned that “When two cultures meet” because it certainly encapsulated that western-meeting-tribal-culture vibe.

Are you able to fit in an extended travel stay when working, or do those amazing images from all over the world come from personal trips?

I wish. But as crew we’re very good at making great use of the limited time we get in the destinations. My photos tend to be from a mix of working trips and personal trips.

And finally, a quick-fire Top 10:

(1) What’s your favourite route? And why?

Havana, Cuba. Love the Latin culture, food and music. 

(2) What’s the best place for a long layover?

Anywhere in the Caribbean. But I also love layovers in LA, and New York.

(3) Is there anywhere you wish Virgin flew; a location that you’d love to visit?

Colombia! My favourite place on earth, but unfortunately we don’t fly there… yet.

(4) Who has inspired you the most, and why?

That’s a hard one. I take little gems from the many different people I come into contact with.

(5) Who or what do you miss the most when you’re away with work?

I’m not away long enough to miss anything or anyone to be honest. Plus, I’ve made friends in most of the places I fly to, so I never get time to miss home. 

(6) Maybe you need to keep this for your biography, but who’s been your favourite (celebrity or otherwise) passenger?

Now that would be telling ;) 

(7) You clearly like to travel for leisure, are you a good passenger (when you’re not the one providing the in-flight service)?

I’m so self sufficient when I’m flying as a passenger. I always bring my own snacks with me. I try not to disturb the crew too much (it’s a crew thing, another unwritten rule), but I always try and have a brief chat with the crew in the galley when it’s quiet, that’s always fun. 

(8) Economy, Premium or Upper Class?

Depends on my mood, but as a supervisor I mainly work in Economy.

(9) Best fitness tip for building an Otis chest?

Going heavy with the weights. Bench presses are great. And also eating/drinking lots of protein. 

(10) Where’s your next trip?

I’m waiting on my next roster, but hopefully to the states, I have so much shopping to make.

I’ve been a huge fan of Palm Springs from my very first visit which must now be at least fifteen years ago. I’ve been back a few times since and have loved every visit, regardless of what time of year it is. In 2020, we were so lucky to visit during Modernism Week, just really before the world started closing down due to the Covid pandemic. I always closely watch what’s happening for Modernism Week and obviously the Fall Preview week in October 2020 and the normal timing of the week in February 2021 was very different this time round, both being primarily online. I reached out to Bob Bogard, Director of Public Relations at O’Bayley Communications, a Palm Springs Marketing and Public Relations agency to ask him about what had changed and what we could expect for the upcoming events.

Bob was so helpful and came back to me straight away with lots of information on what’s happening in Palm Springs soon for the new timing of Modernism Week. Now that dates are set for the upcoming Fall Preview this October, though details won’t be finalised or announced until after the April event, I’m already trying to get a trip back to Palm Springs organised for then.

Modernism Week 2021

This year Modernism Week staged the Modernism Week Online Experience for the month of February, which was extended until March 15.  This was an all-online series of video programs that mirrored the type and quality of an in-person Modernism Week experience.  

Modernism Week will be held in Palm Springs, California from April 8-18, 2021. The annual festival celebrates mid-century modern design, architecture, art, fashion and culture through in-person events and custom-designed online programs. Featured events include home tours, walking architectural tours, an outdoor Garden Tour, talks, and other programs specifically designed to allow for social distancing and safety protocols. All in-person events will feature safety protocols, including timed entry, limited number of tickets, mask requirements, sanitary stations, and more. In addition to the robust array of in-person events in April, exciting new programs will also be offered in a new Modernism Week Online Experience running from April 15 - May 15 at modernismweek.com. These programs include compelling presentations, video tours, and films, and are in addition to the offerings already available on the Modernism Week website. Tickets are available for purchase at modernismweek.com

In April, Modernism Week will be offering a few in-person programs from April 8-18, 2021.  Each program is designed to be as safe as possible, including limited tickets per event, timed entry for yours, and strict safety protocols. Because many of the events have limited tickets available, some are already sold out, but many still have availability. Here’s a recap, with events that still have availability:

“Don’t miss” events include:

1) Tours of two Featured Homes

Tours of both residences will be offered on April 9-12 and April 15-18; each tour is $35

"Sunburst Palms" - Tour H3K’s latest renovation of a 1956 Lawrence Lapham property in iconic Deepwell and enjoy and be inspired by their fun-filled and colorful take on classic mid-century modern design.

"Seventies Sackley" – This architectural home tour in Indian Canyons will allow participants to experience a seamless blend of contemporary furnishings and vintage pieces on display at this stunning 1975 Palm Springs residence designed by noted architect Stan Sackley and offered by Grace Home Furnishings.

Modernism Week sponsors Brizo, Dunn-Edwards Paints, Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery, Jenn-Air, and Willis generously contributed to these projects.

2) Desert Modernism: Two Perspectives. Two Home Tours – Kappe and Lockyer

April 8-18, $60

One ticket, two tours. Discover both the restoration of architect Raymond Kappe's last project as well as architect Sean Lockyer's newly completed Desert Palisades project. Palm Springs Life has partnered with the Kappe family, and Sean Lockyer, and the builders of Desert Palisades to bring these homes to the public eye.

3) Tour Famed Architect John Lautner's Iconic 1947 Living Units at The Lautner Compound, $50

This is a rare opportunity to immerse yourself in the spectacular and visionary architecture of John Lautner. The Lautner Compound is a collection of 3 boutique properties that were recently masterfully restored, including Lautner’s Living Units. Commissioned by renowned Hollywood producer Lucien Hubbard in 1947 these stunning units operate as an elite vacation rental property allowing architecture aficionados from around the world a chance to live the Lautner Lifestyle.

4) Mod with a Twist, $55

Mod with a TWIST is a light-hearted but deep dive into some of the more obscure topics of the mid-century.  You are guaranteed to chuckle and learn something new while you enjoy a complimentary glass of wine. The programs will be presented outside, around a beautiful pool and seating will be socially distanced with lots of fresh air under the stars.

How has the Pandemic affected Modernism Week

Lisa Vossler Smith, Executive Director of Modernism Week said:

“The pandemic has impacted nearly every person and business around the planet. When it became clear we would not be able to offer the same kind of densely attended in-person events, we could have chosen to just pause all our programming.  Instead, we used the opportunity to reimagine how we offer programs. We were gratified to see that our loyal Modernism Week attendees continued to support our efforts and participate in our new virtual programs. When the pandemic ends and we can resume offering large-scale in-person events, we believe that we will continue to produce our online programing featuring compelling talks and tours and offer them throughout the year on our modernismweek.com web site.

The pandemic directly impacted Modernism Week in our event planning.  Last year, we held nearly 400 events over 11 days and attracted 162,000 participants.  This year, we offered a month of online programming for February 2021 and will offer a socially-distant program in a new April 11-day event.  Judging by the sales of the April programs, there is clearly a desire by our attendees to participate in some form of in-person events. We are only offering in-person events that will be safe for our attendees, staff and volunteers. As the pandemic ends, we will adjust our programming accordingly, but I think we will continue to offer on-line programming for future festivals, and perhaps throughout the year."

The Fall Preview

Modernism Week Fall Preview is a four-day event held in October.  The social distancing and safety protocols created as a response to the pandemic made it clear Modernism Week would not be able to offer the same type and volume of programming as it had before, so last year it offered all-online programming for Fall Preview in October, 2020. This fall, the organization plans to resume in-person events, including home tours, tours of Sunnylands, the Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale, and many other events.  It will announce details of the programs later in the summer.

Where to Stay in Palm Springs

There is a large mix of hotels in Palm Springs - some dedicated gay hotels and all other hotels very gay-friendly, with a mix of locations from central downtown (some large and small boutique) to slightly out with, to nearby locations like Rancho Mirage, Indian Palms or Desert Springs.

Leading Hotels of the World, always a favourite of mine, now has only the one property in Palm Springs - Parker Palm Springs, although when we visited a few years ago L’Horizon was also featured too; albeit (in my personal view) it didn’t actually “fit” within that collection, even-though it was a stunning hotel. The Parker definitely is somewhere I would like to stay on a future trip, albeit not located downtown which is particularly convenient for many Modernism Week events, the historic estate designed by Jonathan Adler is set amidst palm trees and lavishly landscaped gardens.

I don’t think there is a bad location within the Palm Springs locale, but when we visited for Modernism Week in 2020 a perfect location was La Serena Villas, an all-villa/suite property extremely centrally located for all events, and very close to a great choice of restaurants, bars, coffee shops and shops. There are only 18 units, each villa has a secluded private patio, complete with claw foot soaking tub, fire-pit and outdoor seating. Very highly recommended and you can find my full review here.

Another property which would be incredible for Modernism Week due to its central location, and very nearby to the Palm Springs Art Museum, is the Del Marcos Hotel. Part of the same group as La Serena Villas, PS Boutique Hotels, the Del Marcos is situated right next door to La Serena Villas and was built in 1947 by renowned architect William F. Cody. The 17-room modernist hotel, built of native stone and redwood, surrounding a pool, features luxurious suites, an organic asymmetrical entrance doorway, and floor-to-ceiling glass. The two-story building features a U-shaped plan centered on a courtyard.

Whatever your budget and choice, there is something for everyone in Palm Springs - if boutique isn’t your thing, there are some much larger chains too like Kimpton, Hard Rock, Hilton and DoubleTree.

Where to Eat in Palm Springs

We always like to try out new places, but also love visiting old favourites too. Palm Springs has a vibrant restaurant scene, with new restaurants opening up but with classics remaining too. Some of my favourites are LULU California Bistro (which also did the outside catering at the incredible Sinatra House cocktail evening), Eight4Nine in the Uptown Design District and a new one for our last visit was the Tropicale. On a previous visit we also had a great night at The Purple Room Supper Club. Obviously with Covid restrictions some of these might be limited at the moment (I’m sure the supper club is temporarily closed), but hopefully everything will get back to more normal in time.

Further Reading

I recently had an Experience Story on Palm Springs and Modernism Week posted on Mr Hudson Explores, you can read this article here. This goes into a lot more detail about some of the events we attended - one of the highlights was definitely Sunday Night at the Sinatra Estate (one of two cocktail receptions and home tours). We also visited the iconic Raymond Loewy Residence (part of the PS Modern Committee) and had booked a separate home tour to the Frey House II, and tickets for the modernism show and sale. Another amazing highlight was the Sunnylands Historic Home Tour and talks on the TWA Hotel in New York (Rebirth of a Modern Icon) and Columbus, Indiana’s Modernist Experiment by ModArchitecture photographer Darren Bradley. 

For more information on Palm Springs, check out some of my useful weblinks below or two good sources of general information are Visit Palm Springs or the Palm Springs Life magazine.

Summary

Whether you’re a fan of Modernism or not, great architecture, amazing weather, restaurants, bars and shopping; or like the idea of one of the most gay-friendly locations in the world, you need to look no further than Palm Springs. It’s a huge favourite of mine and I gave this as my ultimate favourite city in my initial Mr Hudson Explores Q&A, which you can read here.

Useful website links:

• Hotels

  • Leading Hotels of the World https://www.lhw.com

  • The Parker Palm Springs https://www.lhw.com/hotel/Parker-Palm-Springs-CA-USA

  • L’Horizon Resort & Spa https://lhorizonpalmsprings.com/

  • PS Boutique Hotels https://psboutiquehotels.com/

  • La Serena Villas Hotel Review https://theprivatetraveller.com/blog/hotel-review/laserenavillas

  • Del Marcos Hotel https://delmarcoshotel.com

  • TWA Hotel New York https://www.twahotel.com

• Restaurants

  • LULU California Bistro http://www.lulupalmsprings.com

  • Eight4Nine Restaurant & Lounge https://eight4nine.com

  • The Purple Room Supper Club https://www.purpleroompalmsprings.com

  • The Tropicale Palm Springs https://apps.thetropicale.com

• Other

  • Modernism Week https://www.modernismweek.com

  • Palm Springs Art Museum https://www.psmuseum.org

  • Sunnylands https://sunnylands.org

  • Frey House II https://www.psmuseum.org/visit/frey-house

  • Jonathan Adler https://jonathanadler.com

  • The Private Traveller on Mr Hudson https://mrhudsonexplores.com/mr-hudson-on/the-favourite-places-of-dave-aka-the-private-traveller/

  • Palm Springs Life Magazine https://www.palmspringslife.com

  • Visit Palm Springs https://visitpalmsprings.com

Being a big fan of holidays to the Seychelles, I was really delighted to see that as of March 25 (2021) they will reopen to every other country, except South Africa. Between UK lockdowns and imposed travel restrictions, I was able to visit this incredible archipelago just before Christmas, but at that point as well as providing a negative PCR test before departing from the UK, we also had to quarantine in an approved resort for the first few days until we were retested. Now you only need to provide a negative test before arrival with no quarantine, and you’re free to move around the islands as long as you comply with the basic guidance of wearing a face mask, respecting social distancing and washing hands frequently.

Unfortunately, although the Seychelles are opening up, as well the mandated non-essential travel ban within the UK until at least 17 May (and probably likely to be extended now beyond that date) the Seychelles are still listed as a ‘red list travel ban’ country for quarantine - this means that regardless of your UK residency status there is a mandatory quarantine in government-approved hotel accommodation for 10 days on arrival back in the UK. If a country isn’t on the red list then the quarantine can be taken in your own home environment.

Where to Stay

I’m an avid reader of the Sunday Times travel section and last weekend there was a big feature of the Seychelles and their reopening plans. There were nine hotels and resorts featured, I’ve been to two of them already (Denis Private Island & Constance Lemuria) and another two (Six Senses Zil Pasyon & Fregate Island Private) are extremely high up on my list of future places to visit. What I can do though is talk about the two that I’ve visited from that list, and also the other resorts we visited just before Christmas - Raffles Seychelles (Praslin) and Constance Ephelia on Mahé. The first hotel I ever visited in Seychelles many, many years ago (Le Domaine de la Réserve) our villa at Raffles actually looked towards this bay (in the distance) and we actually cycled past the entrance en-route to Baie St. Anne once we were out with our initial quarantine period at Raffles. It was a great introduction to this amazing country and funny to think that where this looked out to in the distance, a green hillside, would ultimately become the location (and somewhere we would stay years later) - Raffles Seychelles.

Raffles Seychelles

Our first stop this trip was to Praslin, the second largest island in the archipelago. Raffles is an all-villa resort (86 in total), each villa with its own private pool, as well as the resort having a huge bi-level main pool along with some spectacular private beaches. Villas ranged from garden views to panoramic ocean views, there were multiple restaurants and bars, a fantastic spa and gym, and lots of activities from mountain bikes, water sports, to a kids club and library. Endless options to do as much or as little as you like. You can read my full hotel review here.

Denis Private Island

Our next stop, once we were out of our quarantine period (and tested negative for Covid in-resort at Raffles), was to Denis Private Island. Located just under 100km from the main island of Mahé, this (luxury) barefoot chic island had only 25 beach cottages; some beachfront with their own spa cabanas in a private garden and one with its own private pool in a walled garden. Spacious luxury bathrooms were open-sided to the garden with a soaking tub as well as a huge walk-in rain shower. Although only one main restaurant and bar in a main building (also housing a library with decent WiFi, the only place it was available on the island) meals were incredible. Three meals a day were included within the daily rate and all were incredible - great selection and quality, much of the produce coming from the on-island farm, so literally farm-to-table service. As well having the surrounding ocean to swim, the resort also had an amazing pool deck as part of the main building, which made the swimming pool look as if it just merged with the ocean. An amazing island resort which you can read all about here.

Constance Ephelia Mahé

Our final stop on this trip was back to the main island of Mahé, so that the international airport was easily accessible for our return flight back to the UK. We’d stayed at Constance Hotel’s Lemuria on Praslin before, but this was the first time to the much larger resort Ephelia, in the middle of the Port Launay Marine National Park. The resort was large (apparently the largest in the Indian Ocean) with 313 rooms, suites and villas but having one of their hillside villas which come with their own private buggy for transporting yourselves throughout the resort was just a magical experience. It really felt like an ultra-luxe resort within another luxury resort with only 10 hillside villas, all with infinity private pools and a spectacular view over the north beach, the stunning ocean bay and across to the National park. To read my full review of these luxury villas and the resort itself, please click here.

Getting to the Seychelles

Although the British Airways direct route from London Heathrow to Mahé has been suspended at the moment, it was a great way to get there from the UK on one of the world’s best airlines. Four classes from economy through to first were available, flights were well-timed to arrive into the Seychelles early morning; so you could easily be clear of immigration and Covid-entry formalities and in your resort for breakfast. Similarly on the return, an easy departure after an early breakfast gets you back to the UK in time for dinner. I’ve also flown with Qatar Airways, once to the Seychelles just for a long weekend which was also a luxurious way to fly there, with great connections via the airline’s state-of-the-art hub at Hamad International Airport in Doha.

Island Hopping

There are a number of options to fly between islands; Mahé to Praslin return has the most frequent scheduled services with Air Seychelles, who also fly to some of the other (private) islands but these flights will generally have to be arranged by the island resort itself. Similarly, either private flights or helicopter transfers with Zil Air if you’re landing on a private island airstrip or landing straight into a resort’s helipad these will have to be organised directly with your resort. On this trip we flew exclusively with Zil Air once we were in the Seychelles - by helicopter between Mahé and Raffle Seychelles, and from the Zil Air base on Mahé to Constance Ephelia. For the longer flights between Praslin and Denis, and Denis back to Mahé we used Zil Air’s private Vulcanair planes. Excellently executed, all flights on time, and such a magical way to arrive in a resort by helicopter.

Summary

I’ve loved the Seychelles on every visit so far, and would go back without a moment’s hesitation. I’ve really enjoyed each resort we have visited so far, but there are still many more islands and resorts that I would love to visit in the future. Being a big fan of Six Senses in other parts of the world Zil Pasyon is a definite, as are some of the other private islands like Fregate, North, Desroches (Four Seasons) or Alphonse. Equally, having stayed for the first time (this trip) on Mahé itself, I’d also love to try out some of the main island’s other ultra-luxe properties like Four Seasons or the Anantara property at Maia Seychelles.

Useful website links:

• Hotels

  • Raffles Hotels https://www.raffles.com

  • Raffles Seychelles https://www.raffles.com/seychelles/

  • Denis Private Island http://denisisland.com

  • Constance Hotels https://www.constancehotels.com/en/

  • Constance Ephelia https://www.constancehotels.com/en/hotels-resorts/seychelles/ephelia/

  • Fregate Island Private https://www.fregate.com

  • Anantara Hotels | Resorts | Spa https://www.anantara.com/en

  • Anantara Maia Seychelles https://www.anantara.com/en/maia-seychelles

  • Six Senses https://www.sixsenses.com/en

  • Zil Pasyon Félicité Private Island https://www.sixsenses.com/en/resorts/zil-pasyon

  • Four Seasons https://www.fourseasons.com

  • North Island Seychelles https://www.north-island.com

  • Alphonse Island https://www.alphonse-island.com/en

  • Le Domaine de la Réserve https://domainedelareserve.sc

• The Private Traveller Hotel Reviews

  • Raffles Seychelles https://theprivatetraveller.com/blog/hotel-review/raffles-seychelles

  • Denis Private Island https://theprivatetraveller.com/blog/hotel-review/denis-private-island

  • Constance Ephelia https://theprivatetraveller.com/blog/hotel-review/constance-ephelia

• Airlines

  • British Airways https://www.britishairways.com/travel/home/public/en_gb/

  • Qatar Airways http://www.qatarairways.com

  • Air Seychelles https://www.airseychelles.com

  • Zil Air https://zilair.com

• Other

  • The Private Traveller’s Seychelles travel itinerary https://theprivatetraveller.com/blog/travel-itinerary-seychelles

  • Travelling long-haul in Covid times https://theprivatetraveller.com/blog/travel-diaries/long-haul-covid

When I was writing a previous blog about what it’s like flying long-haul in Covid times and the additional steps needed to gain approval for entry into the Seychelles, I thought it would be informative to get a pilot’s view on how the current pandemic has impacted travel. I reached out to Captain Chris (Instagram @CaptainChris) to ask him some questions.

Addendum
I originally posted this interview in January 2021, at the height of Covid. Since then (now August 2023) Captain Chris’ Instagram profile has multiplied exponentially and now has a following of 377,000 and growing by the day, now definitely an online phenomenon. Not only is he a huge ambassador for Virgin Atlantic and the Airbus A350 to satisfy all the avgeeks like me, he has also started  some viral trends like #cabinpush and #wingtipwednesday which I regularly like to take part in.

Captain Chris Pohl is a Senior Captain with Virgin Atlantic, and is responsible for training other pilots on the Airbus A350 aircraft (a long-range, wide-body equivalent to Boeing’s Dreamliner). He qualified at the age of 19 in Australia and started working for Virgin in 1993 but had moved to the UK earlier (in 1990) following an Australia-wide industrial dispute. He is probably most notably known (laterally) for establishing the strap line “Buy airline tickets like you bought toilet paper” which went viral on social media and has earnt him his own GIPFY on Instagram. He currently has over 62,000 followers on the social channel but this is growing on a daily basis through high quality engagement posting excellent aviation photographs and amusing videos of him at work, as well as stunning time-lapse videos of take-offs and landings.

The Private Traveller was able to put some questions to Captain Chris and this is what he had to say.

At the start of the initial UK lockdown (March 2020), did you ever anticipate that there would be such a dramatic impact on travel?

At first (like most people) I thought that Covid-19 was a particularly nasty and temporary flu and that once we get to Summer, life would be back to normal. I initially enjoyed the first month at home with my son, although the unease grew during April when everything began to shut down. I live in SW France and found myself unable to travel to the UK until June, by then Virgin Atlantic had grounded its 4 engine fleets of 747’s and A340’s and also the A330’s. Pilots who flew those aircraft were also immediately grounded UFN (until further notice). I used my time at home using Instagram, to promote Virgin Atlantic, support the Airline and Travel Industry with my viral (bad pun) #buyairlineticketslikeyouboughttoiletpaper meme and to send positive messages to crew and colleagues worldwide, who found themselves grounded through no fault of their own. I was brought back in June, to operate cargo flights as part of a Critical Pilot Workforce.

I heard from a live broadcast you did with a fellow influencer that you often fly cargo flights - has the mix between cargo and commercial flights changed dramatically in the lockdown period?

All of our flights carry cargo, although since we had so few passengers over the summer, autumn and now winter, we had cargo-only flights which departed each day to various destinations and we also had passenger flights, but filled the cargo hold to the equivalent weight of the empty seats. For example, pre-Covid, if we filled every passenger seat of an A350 (336 seats) that would be the equivalent of approximately 35 tonnes of people, baggage, catering, duty free, etc. So we could also carry a further 15 tonnes of cargo in the cargo hold.

With the absence of passengers and less flights those 15 tonnes of cargo still need to travel on less flights, therefore with no passengers, or just a few, we could load up to 50 tonnes of cargo.

What’s involved in terms of Covid-testing for pilots and cabin crew - has this evolved over the course of the pandemic?

Initially there was no testing and this was the same throughout the UK and the World. China was one of the first countries to demand all crew take a Covid-test on arrival and crew were then quarantined in their rooms for the remainder of their layover. Other Governments and airlines have now ruled that all passenger and all crew must take a Covid-test with proof of a negative result before boarding. Virgin Atlantic do this for ALL of our flights; passenger or cargo-only.

I assume you also have to train, and train others, using simulators - I imagine now technology is at the point when it’s as real as flying can be. When did you see the biggest leap in simulator technology?

Simulator technology has evolved just like the rest of aviation, from very basic trainers to the todays sophisticated full-flight simulators, there’s been no big leap, more gradual improvements. Today’s simulators are so realistic, it’s difficult to imagine any future improvements.

What’s better - cargo that doesn’t talk back or makes a mess of your aircraft; or having a plane full of people?

I’ve really enjoyed the cargo flights for the ability to pushback on-time or early, plus not having to worry about schedules for passengers connecting flights. Although it’s a been a novelty, the novelty is wearing off. I miss walking into a busy airport with throngs of people excited to be travelling to the other side of the world, I miss the check-in staff and everyone else who works at a busy airport. I miss my crew and mostly I miss my passengers. Everyone has pride in their work, no matter what they do for a living and my personal job satisfaction comes from flying people safely and efficiently across the World.

And finally, a quick-fire Top 10:

(1) What’s your favourite route? And why?

London to Hong Kong, because I’ve been there over 250 times and never once got bored.

(2) What’s the best place for a long layover?

Anywhere in the Caribbean or Cape Town.

(3) You said you’d have loved to have flown Concorde. Do you think in our lifetime there will be something as iconic as Concorde to rival this, to fly?

Yes, Richard Branson is working with a company called Boom Supersonic to develop a new Supersonic airliner. It may arrive too late for my career, but hopefully I get to fly on it in retirement.

(4) Sunrise or sunset cockpit view?

Both look similar from the flight deck, but psychologically the sunrise is best, as it offers new hope with a new day, especially during this pandemic.

(5) Who or what do you miss the most when you’re away with work?

Obviously my family and special family events, although they’ve learnt to live without me, plus FaceTime is a daily event.

(6) I assume you’ve flown with family on board, is that reassuring or does it make you nervous?

My family are very seasoned travellers and I love seeing them on board one of my flights. They always asks who does the Captains PA, as they don’t believe it’s me.

(7) Do you like to travel for leisure, are you a nervous passenger (when not flying the plane yourself)?

Absolutely, I love someone else to fly me on my holidays. I’m the opposite of nervous on a Virgin Atlantic flights, I fell very relaxed and secure, as I’ve trained or checked most of the pilots who fly me.

(8) Is there a country or airport you wish Virgin had as one of their routes which is on your landing bucket list?

The only Continent I haven’t flown to yet is South America, I would love to fly the approach in to Rio.   

(9) You mentioned that you have had Princess Diana as a passenger on one of your flights before, who’s been your best celebrity passenger recently, if you’re allowed to say?

In the years before 911, we regularly invited people to the flight deck, for a look and a chat. We invited any of our passengers, especially kids,  not just the celebrities. It was a visit to the cockpit of a Boeing 727 when I was 12 that inspired me to become a pilot. I’ve had many ‘big name” celebrities in the flight deck with me, but I’ll leave the names and details for when I write a book. 

(10) Where’s your next trip?

I’m currently in New York for 24 hours, on a cargo-only flight layover. My next trip, next week, is a passenger flight to Los Angeles.  Every trip I do is a Training trip. On this flight I checking a Captain and First Officer and next week I’m training another First Officer returning from furlough.

First of all I’d really like to thank Captain Chris for his time today in speaking with The Private Traveller and wish him all the best for his campaign to encourage passengers to still fly and “to buy airline tickets like they bought toilet paper.” If you don’t already follow him on social, and have an interest in aviation or travel, I’d suggest you do so to keep up-to-date with his great posts, reels and videos.

Travel has obviously been severely restricted since March 2020 with Covid lockdowns/travel bans, but as well as some local trips we also managed to get away (short-haul) to Croatia in August. Travelling to the Seychelles at the back-end of the year would be the first long-haul trip and I plan to write about various aspects of this trip - Covid-testing, quarantine periods, what it was like at airports and I was able to reach out to the legend that is Captain Chris to get a pilot’s view of the current situation.

The trip

We originally had flights booked with British Airways to the Seychelles for November, but with the UK lockdown these had to be cancelled and we rebooked for December, meaning that we would actually be away for Christmas. There were also some changes with how the Seychelles Government were approaching entry requirements and mandatory quarantine periods, so I held off finalising hotel bookings until nearer the departure time, albeit I’d already identified that we would hopefully stay in three different resorts across three different islands. First stop was Hotel Raffles Seychelles where we would undertake our quarantine period on Praslin island; second Denis Private Island, a remote but utterly fantastic small island to the north of the main islands of Mahé and Praslin; and third back to the main island of Mahé where the international airport is located, to the Constance Hotel Ephelia. All were absolutely incredible, all very different, and you can read all about them in my various detailed hotel reviews (all on the website).

Covid testing

For the Seychelles, when we went we had to have a negative PCR test (lab based) within 48 hours of our departure from the UK. I looked at various options of where the testing could be done, how quickly we would get results and what the various tests available were. Initially we had assumed that we would be able to use the ‘Test and Rest’ facility at one of my favourite locations, the London Heathrow Sofitel at Terminal 5, but unfortunately this wasn’t going to be acceptable because the test used by Halo was saliva based and not swab based.

I booked appointments for us at the local Vivo Clinic - travelling on a Saturday evening we would get our tests done on the Thursday, with results due back between 8pm on the Friday night and noon on the Saturday. Worst case, this would mean that we would have about 6 hours to get the online applications done for Seychelles entry. It was an easy process, we just had to complete a form with some basic personal information (which the clinic upload to the testing site) then the dreaded swabbing of the throat and nose - we did this ourselves, there was instructions shown in the clinic, and the attendant also talked us through what to do. Not the most pleasant thing to do, especially when swabbing around the back of the throat and tonsils, but it was a quick process, albeit even the thought of it now, weeks on, still makes me gag. The things we go through for travel!

Once the tests had been done and registered by the Clinic (they were using Randox Health for testing which we had also bought direct as a backup), we both immediately received emails to advise that the tests had been registered, we then subsequently received another email on the Friday to advise that the test had physically been received by the laboratory (around noon). On the Friday evening, about 9pm ‘Mrs’ ThePrivateTraveller got the negative result back, but mine (from that test) didn’t actually come through until around 6am on the Saturday morning - both though were well within the expected guidance.

As back up, and to trial the process for another trip, I had also bought testing kits direct from the Randox Health website; there was a bit of delay in these being received (issue with UPS, not the dispatch from Randox) so they didn’t arrive until theThursday too. We did the same test ourselves, registered them on the Randox website and sent them back to the lab (the kit you buy also includes free return delivery by either UPS or DX Delivery). After the problems with UPS and delivery of the kits, we opted to use the DX option - I’d expected it to be more complicated, but basically it was just a case of dropping it in a testing mailbox at the local DX office and making sure that it was in there before 5pm for next day delivery. For those tests, we both received confirmations around the same time about 1pm on the Friday that they had been received, then the test outcomes themselves that evening, around 8pm; again thankfully negative. I think in future, the learning would be to have bought the kit further in advance, but I would just do it myself direct with the lab rather than going through a clinic - the only benefit would be if a local clinic could offer same-day results, but this seemed to only be an option in London, Liverpool, Birmingham and Manchester for now.

Applying to the Seychelles Government for entry

As soon as we had our negative test results (you’re sent a PDF attachment to the emails) we were then able to apply for entry. The confirmation shows the outcome of your test, the test method and your basic details - depending on where you’re going and the requirements, you can opt to have the test time and date shown, or not. Some countries also require passport details to be shown, but for the Seychelles this wasn’t a requirement. You’re able to apply through either an app or direct on the website, as well as entering some basic information about you, your trip details (dates, flights, accommodation etc.) and obviously the test results you also have to upload accommodation vouchers for everywhere you plan to stay (and must have booked), flight confirmation, a scan of your passport and upload a photo. You also need to make some appropriate online confirmations that you have valid travel insurance for your stay, answer some health questions and also details of any other recent travel, as well as paying a fee - this was 45 euro (about £40) for the standard processing (meant to be confirmed within 6 hours) but there was also a more expensive fee if you needed faster processing. Staying overnight at the Sofitel, we assumed that getting approval overnight would be fine; back well in time before our flight the following evening.

On waking up the next morning, ‘Mrs’ ThePrivateTraveller had the confirmation email from the Seychelles Government regarding entry and was able to download a Passbook confirmation to the Apple wallet, which would be checked on arrival into the Seychelles. Despite being outwith the 6 hour window, I didn’t have any confirmation but on interacting with Travizory (the company used by the Republic of Seychelles to process applications) through live chat (which is available 24 hours to help with any queries, and worked really well) I found that my approved application came through within minutes. We were then both approved for travel, and just had to show these to the British Airways staff at check-in, as well as once we arrived in Mahé the following morning. Overall the system worked really well, unfortunately (as I write) the UK are no longer approved for entry, having been moved out of the Category 2 approved country list at the end of December, once we were actually in the Seychelles, due to the new variant Covid strain identified initially in both the UK and South Africa.

Airports

It’s amazing how quickly you can get used to mask-wearing, constantly using hand-sanitizer and keeping distance - in London the airport was exceptionally quiet when otherwise it would have been very busy in the run-up to Christmas. Not all lounges were open in Terminal 5, and we made the mistake of moving from the lounge in the main terminal thinking (for a change of scene with a couple of hours until our flight) to relocate to the lounge at the B-gates. As soon as we got there we realised how exceptionally deserted that area was, so rather than returning back to the A-gate area we just hunkered down and spent a couple of hours at the boarding gate, but I did get some good airport shots.

The pilot’s view

As I’ve been writing this blog about travelling with Covid, it made me start to think about travel from a pilot’s perspective and who better I thought to reach out to but the legend that is Captain Chris. Captain Chris Pohl rocketed on to my Instagram radar last year with his strapline ‘Buy airline tickets like you would toilet paper’ - not only did this catch my attention and it seems like several thousand others too as I’ve been seen his account rocket to (currently) over 60,000 followers and that’s literally increasing day by day. I’ve been following him ever since, looking at the great posts he makes regularly about travel (he’s a full-time pilot with Virgin Atlantic)  and he allowed me to share some of his fantastic cabin shots when I was running an #avgeekweek section on my Instagram feed last year.

I was going to add in some Q&A with Captain Chris here, but I’ve realised that having his thoughts definitely merits a separate blog post so I will do exactly that. Watch out soon for the upcoming post, I’ll be asking him all about travel during Covid times and find out a bit more about the man behind the profile.

Useful website links:

• Airlines

  • Virgin Atlantic https://www.virginatlantic.com

  • British Airways https://www.britishairways.com/travel/home/public/en_gb/

• Hotels

  • Sofitel London Heathrow https://all.accor.com/hotel/6214/index.en.shtml

  • Raffles Hotels https://www.raffles.com

  • Raffles Seychelles https://www.raffles.com/seychelles/

  • Denis Private Island http://denisisland.com

  • Constance Hotels https://www.constancehotels.com/en/

  • Constance Lemuria Seychelles (Praslin) https://www.constancehotels.com/en/hotels-resorts/seychelles/lemuria/

  • Constance Ephelia (Mahé) https://www.constancehotels.com/en/hotels-resorts/seychelles/ephelia/

• Hotel reviews

  • Hotel Sofitel London Heathrow

  • Raffles Seychelles

  • Denis Island

  • Constance Ephelia

• Other

  • Vivo Clinics https://vivoclinic.com

  • Halo https://haloverify.com

  • Randox https://www.randoxhealth.com

  • Seychelles Government site https://seychelles.govtas.com

Having meant to have spent the week at Le Sirenuse in Positano Italy but due to Covid restrictions applied late on we had to cancel, we decided at short notice to book a few nights at The Gleneagles Hotel near Auchterarder followed by The Fife Arms in Braemar. You can read my full Gleneagles hotel review here.

There were many dining choices available at Gleneagles, which I will write about later, but booking so late we were left with limited choices of where we could eat and what times. I had particularly wanted to eat one evening at the fine-dining (but casual) two Michelin starred restaurant within the hotel, but we were told nothing was available for any night of our stay. The restaurant reservations for Andrew Fairlie seemed to be managed by that specific restaurant themselves rather than the ‘Glorious Playground’ planners for all other facilities, and after being placed on a waiting list were so pleased to get a call on the Tuesday to advise there was an available slot that evening for dinner. It was such a wonderful experience that I took pictures of all the courses and will show them here.

Restaurant Andrew Fairlie

Menu choices

There was an initial choice of either a seven-course tasting/Degustation menu priced at £155 (£140 for the vegetarian version) or A La Carte - this could be either a three-course set dinner at £115 (starter/main course/dessert) or four-course option at £145 (including an additional intermediate course) or you could choose whatever options you wanted and these were all priced individually. We opted for the three-course A La Carte option and there was both a vegetarian and non-vegetarian option for both.

Ambience

The restaurant is located between the Strathearn (main) Dining Room in the hotel and the Ballroom, on the ground floor of the Main House. Restaurant Andrew Fairlie has a subtle entrance off the hallway - from arrival through to departure, we just loved the experience. Though casual, the restaurant had a lovely atmosphere - all diners were socially-distanced and all staff wore masks throughout. On arrival, the table had only a (designer) bottle of hand sanitizer and once seated were glasses, cutlery, napkins and menus brought. All menus were single-use but it was a nice memento to be able to keep it, to remind ourselves of the delicious food we enjoyed. Service throughout was just exemplary, attentive but not oppressively so and we were given just the right amount of time between courses. Drinks (though nothing alcoholic available at the moment because of the additional Scottish Government ‘reset’ rules) were regularly topped up and at the end, we were given the petit fours to take away in a box as we were full by that point and the restaurant (again Government regulations) had to be vacated by 10pm.

Dinner

Canapés

In addition to the chosen three-courses, there were an extra three canapés to begin with each - all perfect vegetarian options for me (without mushrooms) and comparable (non-vegetarian) options for ‘Mrs’ ThePrivateTraveller. Not being on the menu, I must confess that I now can’t remember what they all were in detail, but what I can say is that they were all amazing.

Starter

For a starter I opted for Beetroot: Salt Baked Beetroot & Winter Radish, Poached Apple, Candied Walnuts. As we had seen out on a walk around the hotel grounds, there was a small sunken garden from where some produce was grown for the restaurant use. Where not possible from the hotel garden, all ingredients were locally sourced where possible.

Main Course

I chose Pavé: Sweet Potato & Swiss Chard Pavé, Red Rice, Lime Leaf & Celeriac Velouté.

Dessert

It was hard to choose as all five options sounded incredible, but I finally opted for Bramble: Honey & Lavender Posset, Bramble Cake, Milk Ice Cream. Also good to get an additional pallet cleanser between the main course and dessert, and we were offered an additional cheese course, which we declined.

My Opinion of the Restaurant Andrew Fairlie Dining Experience

What a wonderful dining experience - service, ambience, food choice, food quality, presentation and the surroundings were all second to none. Absolutely delicious meal with the addition of home-made breads, all the canapés and extra pallet cleanser, as well as take-away petit fours for afterwards. Definitely a worthwhile experience when staying at the hotel.

Other Hotel Options- Restaurants

Breakfast

For breakfast, the only two options were the Strathearn or the Dormy Club House. Definitely the one to choose if you have the option is the Strathearn; the Dormy had limited choices and (while probably good if you were a golfer waiting to hit the course) we felt it was definitely an inferior option when not able to eat in the main hotel. The Strathearn, which would normally feature an extensive buffet as well as a la carte, for now with Covid restrictions was completely a la carte only. Although casual for breakfast, the Strathearn is more formal in the evening.

Lunch/All-day Dining

Lunch options were again the Dormy Club House (open throughout), the Birnam Brasserie which opens daily from 12-2pm and also the Garden Café.

Afternoon Tea

Afternoon tea is served in the Glendevon Lounge, but only selected days Friday through Monday 1-4pm. We weren’t there during those days but we did have an incredible afternoon tea at The Fife Arms, our next stop - look out for my next blog post there.

Dinner

We had one dinner in the Dormy, but again it was lacking something in terms of atmosphere - the food choice was good, as was service, but wasn’t the best dinner choice. Our best dinner, by far, was in Andrew Fairlie, as I described above. We did also eat another night in the Birnam Brasserie and this was good - great food choice, presentation, service and location/atmosphere. The incredible highlight here was a mille-feuille dessert which should have been served with a chocolate sauce, but with a high intolerance for caffeine (even the tiny amount in dark chocolate if served at night), they happily changed this to a warm butterscotch sauce instead - wow!

Other Hotel Options- Bars

Although the hotel has 4-5 bars - Auchterarder 70 (in the Dormy Club House), The American Bar, The Blue Bar and The Century Bar (as well as another impressive bar area in the Birnam Brasserie & Trattoria; with the additional Covid restrictions the only option for alcohol was a newly created outside bar - the Garden Bar, sponsored by Moet & Chandon. We were lucky enough to get a table outside one evening before dinner - here there are socially distanced tables and chairs under a canopy, with heaters and blankets provided. I’m normally a gin fan (as you’ll see if anyone has followed my other IG profile this.mans.journal) but with the bar being inspired by Moet I tried the Pepper & Berry Champagne Cocktail - a mix of strawberry with pink peppercorn and citrus with Moët & Chandon Impérial.

Useful website links:

• The Private Traveller’s Hotel review - The Gleneagles Hotel

• Le Sirenuse Positano

• The Fife Arms Braemar

• Moët et Chandon

• Restaurants

  • Restaurant Andrew Fairlie

  • The Strathearn

  • The Dormy

  • The Birnam

  • The Garden Café

• Menus

  • The Strathearn Breakfast & Dinner

  • The Dormy All Day Menu

  • Andrew Fairlie Drinks and various Menus

  • The Birnam Brasserie & Trattoria Lunch & Dinner

  • The Garden Café All Day Menu