Tilly and the Buttons

How to sew the box pleat on the Frida Shirt

2026-03-11T12:00:00.003+00:00

If you’re making the Frida Shirt sewing pattern, you’ll notice a lovely box pleat on the back of the shirt. This is a classic detail on traditional shirts, creating a relaxed silhouette with a little extra room for movement.

In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to sew the Frida shirt box pleat neatly and accurately. It’s a simple step once you understand the folding order, and it makes a big difference to how the back of the shirt sits.

What is a box pleat?

A box pleat is created when two folds of fabric are stitched and pressed toward each other on the wrong side (or inside) of the garment. Not to be confused with an inverted box pleat, where two folds are pressed towards each other on the right side (or outside) of the garment.

On shirts, a box pleat:

Adds ease across the upper back
Improves comfort and movement
Creates a traditional tailored finish

In the below video extract from our online workshop Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt (featuring the Frida shirt sewing pattern), Tilly demonstrates exactly how to fold, press and stitch the pleat so it stays crisp, neat and centred.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS ONLINE WORKSHOP

Step 1: Mark the pleat lines

Your pattern includes two pairs of pleat lines, marked near the top of the back bodice (along the yoke seam).

Transfer these lines accurately to the wrong side of your fabric. Precision here makes all the difference.

Step 2: Fold and pin the pleats

Working on the wrong side:

Fold the fabric right sides together to bring one pair of pleat lines together.
Pin exactly along the marked lines.
Check both sides to ensure the pin sits precisely on the marked line - adjust if needed.

Repeat for the second pair of pleat lines.

Step 3: Stitch the pleats in place

Take the fabric to your sewing machine.

Stitch along each short marked line, back tacking at both ends.
If needed, lower the needle into position using the handwheel before starting.

These short lines anchor the pleats at the top.

Step 4: Press towards the centre

Move to the ironing board.

From the wrong side:

Press both pleats towards the centre back.
On the Frida pattern, they won’t reach the exact centre back notch - there should be a gap between them.
Pin in place if they don’t stay flat after pressing.

Good pressing gives a professional finish - you'll thank yourself later!

Step 5: Tack across the top

To secure the pleats before attaching the yoke:

Set your machine to a long stitch length (4–5).
Tack (baste) horizontally across the pleats, about 10mm (3/8in) from the raw edge.

This line of tacking holds everything neatly in place for the next construction step.

And that’s your box pleat complete!

Taking a moment to press the folds carefully will help the pleat sit beautifully on the back of your Frida Shirt, giving the shirt its relaxed shape and showcasing that classic shirtmaking detail.

If you’d like extra guidance while sewing your Frida shirt, our Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt online workshop walks you through every step of the process – from choosing your size and making fitting adjustments, to sewing details like collars, cuffs, plackets and more.

The workshop includes the Frida sewing pattern and step-by-step video lessons, so you can sew along with confidence and build your shirtmaking skills as you go.

Happy sewing and make sure to share your Frida shirts on Instagram using #SewingFrida!

Fitting the Frida Shirt Sewing Pattern

2026-03-06T12:00:00.001+00:00

Getting a great fit is one of the most empowering parts of sewing your own clothes. In this post, we’ll walk through how to choose your size and approach fitting for the Frida shirt sewing pattern, so you can sew with confidence from the very start.

In this post, we’ll cover:

How the Frida shirt is intended to fit
Whether you need to make a toile (mock-up)
How to take your measurements and choose your size
Common fitting adjustments you may want to consider
Extra resources for more in-depth fitting help

The good news? Frida is relatively easy-fitting, so in most cases only minor adjustments may be needed. Hooray!

How is the Frida shirt designed to fit?

Frida has a modern, boxy silhouette inspired by menswear. It’s deliberately relaxed and easy to wear.

Design features that affect the fit:

No darts – it’s intentionally loose-fitting
Sizes 7–15 (UK 18–34) include extra length at the front to accommodate a larger bust
Dropped shoulders, with armhole seams sitting lower on the shoulder
Slightly forward shoulder seams as a design feature
Short sleeves finishing above the elbow
Long sleeves finishing slightly past the wrist
Choice of cropped length (low waist) or hip-length (low hip) hem

There is approximately 35cm (13in) of ease at the full bust, so you have a little wiggle room if you’re between sizes.

However, try not to over-fit this pattern. Frida is designed to feel relaxed - embrace the easy, modern shape.

What sizes are included in the Frida sewing pattern?

Whether you buy Frida as a printed or PDF pattern, there are 15 sizes included, from UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62.

Sizes UK 6-16 (TATB sizes 1-6) and UK 18-34 (TATB sizes 7-15) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better fit. The latter sizes account for a different set of proportions with a fuller bust (dressmaker's D cup as opposed to B cup in the smaller sizes) and to allow a bit more room at the waist.

Do you need to make a toile?

A toile (or muslin) is a practice version sewn in cheaper fabric to check fit and test adjustments before cutting into your main fabric.

Normally, it’s a good idea to toile a pattern you haven’t made before. But because Frida is loose-fitting, you could skip this step if you prefer.

That said:

Consider making your first version in a more affordable fabric
It allows you to test techniques without pressure
You’ll feel freer to tweak the fit if needed

Find out more about when, why and how to make a toile.

Taking your measurements

Even if you know your size, always re-measure before starting a new project - bodies naturally fluctuate.

Wear the underwear you’d wear with the finished shirt. Using a flexible tape measure:

Stand normally - no posing
Breathe as usual
Check in the mirror that the tape is level all the way around

Measure:

Full bust – around the fullest part
Waist – your natural waist (where you bend at the side)
Hips – the fullest part (turn sideways to check in a mirror)

If sewing the long sleeve version, also measure:

Arm length – from armpit to just below the wrist (or where you’d like the cuff to finish)

Compare your measurements to the Body Measurements chart in the instructions and circle the closest numbers.

Choosing your size

If your measurement falls between sizes:

Usually, choose the larger size (it’s easier to take in than let out).
With Frida’s generous ease, you may choose either size depending on how relaxed you want it to feel.

If your bust, waist and hips fall into different sizes, you can grade between sizes (blend from one size to another at the side seams). Find out more about choosing your sewing pattern size.

Common fitting adjustments for Frida

Adjusting bodice length

Tilly and the Buttons patterns are drafted for a height of 5’5”–5’6” (165–168cm).

If you are taller, shorter, or have a long or short torso, you may want to lengthen or shorten the bodice using the lengthen/shorten lines marked on the pattern.

When adjusting the bodice:

Make the same change to the front bodice, back bodice and button stand
Redistribute the buttonhole markings so they remain evenly spaced

Find out more about lengthening and shortening sewing patterns.

Adjusting sleeve length

For short sleeves:

Use the upper lengthen/shorten line
You can also fine-tune before hemming

For long sleeves:

Adjust the pattern before cutting
This ensures the placket, pleats and cuff align correctly

The finished underarm length (including cuff) is 43.5cm (17 1/8in).

Compare this to your arm measurement, remembering the sleeve starts lower than your armpit due to the dropped shoulder. You may want it a couple of inches shorter than your exact arm measurement.

For small changes, use the lower lengthen/shorten line. For larger adjustments, split the change between both lines.

Grading between sizes

If your bust, waist and hip fall into different sizes:

Use your bust size at the top of the side seam
Blend smoothly to your waist size at the second notch
Blend again to your hip size at the hem

Redraw the side seams on both the front and back bodice pieces to create a smooth line.

Use your bust size for the remaining pattern pieces so everything matches correctly.

Find out more about grading between sizes.

Bust adjustments

Sizes 1–6 (UK 6–16) are drafted for a B cup (5cm / 2in difference between high bust and full bust).

Sizes 7–15 (UK 18–34) are drafted for a D cup (10cm / 4in difference between high bust and full bust).

If you have a fuller bust, you can make a full bust adjustment (FBA). The bust notch is marked on the pattern to help with this.

Before making an adjustment, remember:

There is already around 35cm (13in) of ease at the full bust
You may not need additional room

If you do make an FBA, the adjustment adds length at the side seam. You can:

Turn this into a dart, or
Sew ease stitches and ease the extra length into the back bodice when stitching the side seams

Want to dive deeper into fitting?

Fitting is a huge topic, and this guide covers the most common adjustments for Frida.

If you’d like more in-depth support, our Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing online workshop, led by a professional pattern cutter, explores upper torso adjustments in much greater detail.

Want extra support sewing Frida?

If you’d love friendly, step-by-step guidance, and the reassurance of sewing alongside Tilly Walnes, the Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt online workshop takes you through the entire process from start to finish.

You’ll be guided through:

Choosing your size with confidence
Making simple fitting adjustments, if needed
Sewing shirt details like collars, stands, plackets and cuffs neatly and accurately
Building skills in a calm, structured way

The workshop includes the Frida sewing pattern in the full size range, so you have everything you need in one place - no extra purchases required.

If you’ve ever felt hesitant about sewing a button-up shirt, unsure about fitting, or intimidated by collar construction, this workshop breaks it down into clear, manageable steps - helping you sew a beautifully finished shirt you’ll feel proud to wear.

Get the Frida shirt sewing pattern →

Sign up to the Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt online workshop →

Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt with the Frida Pattern + Online Workshop

2026-03-04T09:00:00.010+00:00

Ever wanted to sew your own classic shirt but felt put off by collars, cuffs and buttonholes? Meet Frida - a timeless, relaxed-fit shirt sewing pattern designed to help you build real shirt-making skills while creating a wardrobe staple you’ll love to wear.

With its boxy silhouette, dropped shoulders, and beautifully classic details, Frida strikes the perfect balance between polished and easy-going. Choose between short sleeves or long sleeves with cuffs and plackets, plus a hip-length or contemporary cropped hem. However you style it, Frida is endlessly wearable.

But that’s not all, we’ve also launched our Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt online workshop to guide you step by step through making Frida. Whether this is your first shirt or you want to refine your technique, this workshop is designed to build confidence and help you sew with clarity.

Shop Frida Shirt Pattern →

Join the Online Workshop →

Let’s take a closer look at Frida...

Why you’ll love the Frida shirt sewing pattern

Designed for improvers, the Frida shirt sewing pattern helps you master classic shirt-making techniques in a clear, approachable way - with beautiful results.

Here’s what makes this shirt pattern so special:

Everyday relaxed fit you'll reach for on the daily
Button-front opening with impressive two-piece collar and stand
Box pleat and lined yoke at the back for a beautiful finish
Choice of casual short sleeves or long sleeves with fancy plackets and cuffs
Two hemline options to suit your style
Optional statement curved patch pocket
Available in 15 sizes (UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62 / AUS 6–34)
Printed, PDF (with layered, projector-friendly files), or even a bundle format for the best of both worlds!

Frida is a versatile shirt pattern you’ll return to again and again - perfect in crisp cotton poplin, soft washed linen, drapey viscose, or classic chambray.

Learn to sew with our online workshop

Fancy sewing the Frida shirt without second-guessing yourself? Like the idea of a friendly teacher holding your hand through each step?

Our Learn to Sew a Classic Shirt online workshop is designed to walk you through making the Frida shirt with calm, clear, step-by-step video lessons.

Join Tilly as she guides you through the entire process - from choosing fabric to sewing on the final button. Along the way, you’ll learn how to:

Choose suitable materials and understand how they'll impact the finished garment
Cut and mark fabric accurately - including on the bias
Construct an impressive two-piece collar with stand
Sew a beautiful lined yoke and box pleat
Attach sleeves easily using the flat method
Stitch a classic sleeve placket opening and cuff
Confidently tackle buttonholes
Sew buttons on using your machine
Finish your shirt beautifully from start to finish

With structured video lessons, you can watch anytime, anywhere, and sew at your own pace.

And the best part?

The Frida pattern is included in the workshop price, so you can start straight away.

Whether you’re tackling your first shirt or levelling up your sewing skills, this workshop gives you techniques you’ll use again and again.

Shop Frida Shirt Pattern →

Join the Online Workshop →

Here’s what our workshop students have been saying:

"Tilly is fantastic at explaining the instructions in her videos and keeping them extremely clear and easy to follow. Highly recommend to try her online workshops if you haven’t already, she holds your hand all the way, giving me the confidence to have a go." - Judy

"This is the first significant garment I have ever made and I'm so impressed with the result – all down to such a good tutorial. Tilly made every step so straightforward – easy to understand and to copy her instructions... I strongly recommend anyone who wants to take up sewing but is nervous about starting, to take the plunge and get an online workshop." - Myra

"This course was brilliant! I am new to sewing and wanted in-depth easy to understand instructions and this is exactly what I got on the course... I have learnt so much, fallen in love with sewing and discovered my happy place." - Erica

Pattern formats & sizing

The Frida shirt sewing pattern is available in two formats:

Printed pattern – Delivered to your door with a beautiful full-colour instruction booklet and durable pattern sheets

PDF pattern – Instant download to print at home (A4/Letter) or at a copyshop (A0), including layered sizes and projector files

Frida includes 15 sizes (UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62 / AUS 6–34), and our signature step-by-step photo instructions will guide you every step of the way.

Order the printed pattern and receive a beautifully packaged envelope for your sewing stash. Choose the PDF for instant access and the option to print only the sizes you need.

Shop Frida Shirt Pattern →

Join the Online Workshop →

What fabric should you use for the Frida shirt?

Frida is designed for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics. Great choices include:

Cotton lawn, poplin, or "shirting" – crisp and beginner-friendly
Dobby – pretty and textured
Washed linen – relaxed and breathable
Chambray – timeless and versatile
Viscose/rayon – for a soft and drapey silhouette
Fine needlecord or lightweight flannel – cosy seasonal options

You’ll also need:

Matching thread
Iron-on interfacing
10–13mm (3/8-1/2in) buttons (5-9 depending on size and version)
Sewing machine and basic tools

Check the full fabric requirements chart to plan your perfect version.

Show us your Frida makes!

We love seeing your handmade creations. Share your Frida shirts on Instagram using #SewingFrida and tag @TillyButtons - we can’t wait to see your take on this classic shirt sewing pattern.

Shop Frida Shirt Pattern →

Join the Online Workshop →

Happy sewing!

*****

Fabrics: Hyacinth Tumbled Linen and Tropical Fruits Rayon Cotton Blend Voile
Models: Megan Pawson and Rita Fitchett
Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Louise Heywood
Sample sewist: Susan Young

Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing: Learn to fit with confidence in our new online workshop

2026-01-15T12:00:00.010+00:00

If you love sewing your own clothes but feel stuck when it comes to fit, you’re not alone. Fitting is one of the most challenging parts of dressmaking, and it’s something we’re asked about again and again. From gaping necklines to pulling across the bust, many sewists tell us the same thing:

“I don’t know where to begin.”
“I find fitting overwhelming.”
“Bust adjustments intimidate me.”
“I want a calm, logical way to understand what’s going wrong.”

That’s exactly why we've teamed up with professional pattern cuttern and teacher Kate Roberts to create Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing, an online workshop designed to demystify fitting and help you sew clothes that feel comfortable, balanced, and made for your body.

Watch the trailer for Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing:

SIGN UP TODAY

Why is fitting so hard?

Sewing patterns are drafted to standard body measurements, but real bodies are anything but standard. We all have different proportions, postures, and shapes, which means a pattern that fits one person perfectly might feel completely wrong on another.

When fitting issues crop up – wrinkles, pulling, gaping, or garments that “just don’t sit right” – it’s easy to feel disheartened. Many sewists worry they’re doing something wrong, when in reality they’ve simply never been taught how to diagnose and fix fit issues step by step.

This workshop takes fitting out of the realm of guesswork and gives you a structured, professional approach you can rely on again and again.

What is Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing?

Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing is a comprehensive, confidence-building online workshop that teaches you how to analyse, diagnose, and fix common bodice fitting issues.

You’ll learn how to adjust sewing patterns so they work for you, rather than feeling like you need to change your body to fit the pattern.

The class focuses on woven-fabric bodices, including:

Tops
Shirts and blouses
The top half of dresses and jumpsuits

Whether the pattern you’re using is darted, dartless, or has princess seams, the techniques taught in this workshop can be applied to your own projects.

What does the workshop cover?

The workshop is packed with practical, transferable skills, including how to adjust fit across the:

Bust
Waist
Hips
Necklines (front and back)
Shoulders
Armholes
Upper and lower back

You’ll also learn:

How to take accurate upper-body measurements and compare them to a sewing pattern
How to choose the best pattern size when your measurements span multiple sizes
How sewing pattern cup sizes work, and what to do if you need a different one
How and why to make full bust and small bust adjustments on different bodice types
How to spot and correct length imbalances for different proportions and postures
How to make asymmetric changes for fit issues that appear on one side of the body

A key part of the class is learning a calm, logical framework for fitting:

Analyse → Diagnose → Test → Amend

This structured approach helps you avoid overwhelm and work methodically towards a better fit.

What doesn’t the workshop cover?

To keep the course focused and manageable, there are a few things it doesn’t cover:

Sleeves (these deserve a workshop of their own)
Trousers or skirts
Stretch or knit fabrics
Basic garment construction or learning to sew (we have plenty of resources for this!)

The emphasis is firmly on bodice fitting for woven fabrics, so you can build strong foundations without being overloaded. But many of the skills you'll learn on this course are transferable to other areas and, if there's enough interest, we hope to create seperate classes for trouser and sleeve fitting in the future.

Who is this workshop for?

This online workshop is ideal for:

Sewing learners who have mastered basic garment construction but feel lost when it comes to fit
Pattern tweakers who’ve made a few adjustments before and want to deepen their understanding
Fitting enthusiasts who want to learn a professional, repeatable approach to fitting

If you’ve ever thought, “I just want someone to explain fitting clearly and calmly,” this workshop is for you.

Meet your instructor: Kate Roberts

We’ve teamed up with Kate Roberts (from Project Patterns), a professional pattern cutter and teacher with over a decade of experience working for some of London’s top fashion brands.

Kate’s work has been seen on models, celebrities, British Royals, and even Michelle Obama! Alongside her industry background, she has extensive experience teaching home sewists, and she’s known for her clear, practical, and encouraging approach.

Kate is passionate about helping people understand why fitting issues happen and how to fix them – always with a body-positive philosophy: change the pattern, not your body.

What do you get when you sign up?

When you enrol in Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing, you’ll receive:

23 in-depth video lessons, ranging from 3 to 32 minutes
Fully captioned videos for accessible learning
Written tuition and downloadable resources to support your practice
On-demand access – watch anytime, anywhere
The freedom to pause, rewind, and rewatch lessons whenever you need a refresher

How long does the workshop take?

The workshop is completely self-paced, with no deadlines.

Some sewists like to watch several lessons first to absorb the theory, while others prefer to work through the class alongside a toile (also known as a muslin). You can go as fast or as slow as you like, fitting learning around your own schedule.

Because fitting skills are so transferable, many students return to the lessons again and again for future projects.

Ready to sew bodices that fit?

If fitting has been the biggest hurdle in your sewing journey, Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing will give you the understanding, tools, and confidence to move forward.

You’ll learn a professional approach to fitting that you can apply to countless future garments, helping you sew clothes that look great, feel comfortable, and truly fit your body.

Find out more and sign up for the Bodice Fitting for Home Sewing online workshop today.

SIGN UP TODAY

How to Sew a Facing Using the Burrito Method (+ video!)

2025-11-05T12:00:00.001+00:00

If you’ve ever wondered how to get a lovely clean finish on a sleeveless bodice, the burrito method is the secret! It’s a clever sewing technique that lets you sew an all-in-one facing or lining to the armholes without leaving any raw edges visible. The result? A neat, professional-looking finish inside and out.

It’s called the burrito method because… well, it involves some tight rolling! Don’t worry - it’s easier than it sounds, and once you’ve tried it, you’ll be using it on all your sleeveless makes.

We're demonstrating the technique here on our Noa pinafore sewing pattern, but you can use this technique on any sleeveless bodice with a facing or lining.

Watch the full step-by-step video tutorial here:

What is the burrito method?

The burrito method is a way of attaching an all-in-one facing or lining to the neckline and armholes of a sleeveless bodice. By rolling the bodice tightly and sewing the armholes with the bodice sandwiched inside, you can stitch everything together right sides facing, and then pull it through for a beautifully clean finish.

It’s one of those techniques that feels a bit like sewing magic when you first try it!

Step-by-Step: Sewing the burrito method

Step 1: Roll and wrap

Start once you’ve already attached the facing or lining to the bodice at the neckline. Lay the bodice out flat, wrong side up, with the facing right side up.

Roll up the bodice tightly from one armhole to the opposite shoulder seam.

Wrap the facing edge around the roll so that the armhole edges of the bodice and facing are right sides together.

Step 2: Pin the armhole

Pin the facing and bodice together along the armhole, matching corners, notches and shoulder seams.

Step 3: Stitch the armhole

With the interfacing side face up on your sewing machine to help stabilise the layers, stitch the facing and bodice together along the armhole. Keep the rolled-up bodice out of the way of your stitching.

Step 4: Trim and clip

Trim the seam allowances, grading the facing slightly narrower to reduce bulk.

Clip into the curves, close to but not over the stitching - this helps the seam sit flat once turned.

Step 5: Press and turn

Use the tip of your iron to press the seam allowances apart, then towards the facing.

Now, pull the bodice through to the right side and press again for a neat edge.

Step 6: Repeat on the other armhole

Repeat the process on the other armhole. This time, start rolling from the stitched armhole end.

Step 7: Understitch

To help keep the facing or lining on the inside, understitch it to the armhole seam allowances, close to the seam line.

You won’t be able to get the presser foot right up to the shoulder seam - start at one side seam and sew as far as you can, then start again from the other side seam.

Press the facing or lining to the inside of the bodice, rolling the armhole seam in slightly so it’s not visible from the outside.

Step 8: Finish the Side Seams

Lay the front bodice over the back bodice, right sides together, and fold the facing or lining away from the bodice at the side seams.

Pin the front and back together along each side seam, from facing or lining corner to the corner at the bottom of the bodice, matching armhole seams and notches.

Stitch down each side seam in one continuous line.

Trim and finish the seam allowances, and press them towards the back.

And you’re done! You now have a lovely, neat finish on your sleeveless bodice - no visible seams, no hand stitching, and a pro-looking result inside and out.

It might sound a little fiddly at first, but once you’ve tried it, you’ll be rolling bodices like a pro.

Happy sewing!

Liked this blog post? Check out How to Sew a Bar Tack & Tips for Sewing Princess Seams!

How to sew princess seams

2025-10-29T12:00:00.032+00:00

Princess seams are a gorgeous alternative to darts for adding shaping to a garment. If you haven’t sewn princess seams before, you may be look at your pattern pieces and wonder how you’re going to get the opposing curves to join together smoothly, without puckering. Read on for my tips on how to sew them successfully...

What are princess seams?

Princess seams are curved, vertical seams down a garment that create smooth lines which flow over the bust and/or hips. You may see them on a dress, pencil skirt, fitted jacket, and more.

I’m demonstrating on our Noa pinafore sewing pattern. You can use these same tips for other patterns.

Tip 1: Staystitch the curves

Curved raw edges are liable to stretching out of shape from handling and sewing, so the first step after cutting out your pieces is always to staystitch the princess seams. All staystitching means is sewing a single line of stitching on each piece separately, within the seam allowance – so about 10mm (3/8in) from the raw edge. The stitches will help to hold the fibres in the fabric together.

Ironically, the process of staystitching itself can contribute to stretching. So, to avoid the pieces stretching out asymmetrically, staystitch in the same direction on each piece – sew from top to bottom.

Tip 2: Clip into inward curves

While the stitching lines on the side and centre pieces should be exactly the same length, the raw edges will be different lengths since the curves are different shapes. The raw edge of the inward (concave) curves will be shorter than the raw edge of the outer (convex) curves – so it can be helpful to open out the inward curves to release tension and make it easier to pin the pieces together.

In short, this means clipping into the inward curves (usually the centre pieces). I'd usually do this on very pronounced curves, such as over a full bust area, or on stiffer or heavier fabrics. It probably isn’t necessary for shallower curves, or for stretchy, lightweight or fluid fabrics. Simply cut a few short snips into the seam allowance at right angles to the raw edge, up to but not over the staystitching. If the seam has notches, you can make the clips a different length to avoid confusion.

Tip 3: Pin at right angles to the raw edges

When it comes to pinning the princess seams together, insert the pins at right angles to the raw edges, rather than parallel to them. This will make it much easier to match up the stitching lines of the curves (15mm or 5/8in from the raw edge) without the seams puckering.

Start by pinning together the corners and any notches, then pin together the rest of the seams, easing the curves together as you do. The pieces won’t sit flat – they will probably naturally try to curve up, and that’s a good thing!

Now you can stitch the seams carefully, taking your time so you can ensure you don’t accidentally catch any pleats of fabric in the stitching. Check the seam on both sides once you’re done.

Tip 4: Notch the outward curves

Before we press the seam allowances, we want to take out some of the excess length in the seam allowances on the outward curves to help them sit flatter.

Notch the most curved parts of the seam on the outward curved layer only (usually the side pieces), cutting small triangles into the seam allowance. Take care not to cut across the stitching lines.

Now you can trim the seam allowances, and finish them with zigzag stitch or an overlocker (serger). Yes, it’s fine to zigzag stitch or overlock across the notches!

Tip 5: Press with intention

The final step in creating your beautifully smooth princess seams is to press, press, press! Use steam if your fabric can handle it (test the iron on a swatch first), as this will help soften the fabric to make it more malleable.

As the seams are curved, rather than lying them flat on a table, it can help to press them over a curved shape. A tailor’s ham is great for this. But if you don’t have one, you can use a rolled up towel.

Princess seams will usually sit flatter when the seam allowances are pressed towards the inward curves, particularly if the curves are very pronounced – so, usually towards the centre. But if you prefer them to be pressed towards the side seams, that’s fine, so long as they play ball!

Sewing princess seams can feel a little fiddly at first, but once you put these tips into practice, you’ll be amazed at how neat and professional your garments look! Give them a whirl when sewing the Noa pinafore or other sewing patterns.

P.S. If you liked this post, you may also like How to sew an invisible zip.

*****
Author: Tilly Walnes
Photos: Jane Looker

How to Shorten a Metal Zip Step by Step (+ video!)

2025-10-22T09:00:00.004+01:00

Found a metal zip, but it’s too long for your sewing project? Don’t worry - you can shorten it at home with a few simple tools. In this tutorial, we’ll show you step by step how to shorten a metal zip so it fits your garment perfectly.

Whether you’re making trousers, a skirt, or a dress, knowing how to adjust a zip to the right length will save you from endless zip-shopping headaches. Once you’ve mastered it, you’ll be able to customise zips for all your handmade clothes!

You can use this tutorial when making sewing projects such as our Noa pinafore (shown below), Thea trousers, and Ness skirt.

Watch the full video tutorial here:

Supplies to shorten a metal zip:

Metal zip (longer than the one your sewing pattern calls for)
Needle nose pliers (or another pair of strong pliers)
Small flathead screwdriver
Ruler or tape measure
Scissors
Marking tool, such as a chalk pencil or erasable Frixion pen
Safety pin

Step 1: Measure and mark the zip

Zip lengths are measured from the bottom stop to the top stop. Lay your zip flat and measure from the bottom of the bottom stop up to the length of zip you need. Mark both zip tapes - this is where the new top stops will go.

Next, make a second set of markings 15mm (5/8in) above the first ones. This is where you’ll cut the tapes later.

Step 2: Secure the zip pull

Open the zip, then insert a safety pin through the tapes just above the pull. This stops the pull from sliding off while you’re working (ask me how I know this is essential!).

Step 3: Remove the top stops

Use your small screwdriver to gently prise open the top stops. Lift them off carefully, and put them somewhere safe - you’ll need them again soon.

Step 4: Remove the extra teeth

With your pliers, pull off the zip teeth between your markings. Don’t stress if the tape frays a little, as this part will usually be hidden inside your seam allowance once the zip is sewn into your garment.

Step 5: Reattach the top stops

Now it’s time to put those top stops back on. Line them up with your first set of markings and clamp them closed securely with your pliers.

Step 6: Trim the excess

Use your scissors to snip off the extra zip tape, 15mm (5/8in) above the top stops, just below the teeth above. Remove the safety pin, and check that the zip pull slides smoothly, and that the top stops are securely attached.

Finished!

And there you have it - your shortened metal zip, ready to sew into your project. Easy, right? Once you’ve tried this technique, you’ll wonder why you ever worried about finding the “perfect length” zip in the shops.

Want more tips like this? We’ve got loads of beginner-friendly sewing tutorials on the Tilly and the Buttons YouTube channel and right here on the blog.

Happy sewing!

Liked this blog post? Check out How to Sew an Exposed Zip & How to Sew a Zip Fly!

Fitting the Noa Pinafore Sewing Pattern

2025-10-17T12:00:00.083+01:00

So, you’ve got your hands on the Noa pinafore sewing pattern - yay! With its princess seams, optional waist adjuster and exposed zip, Noa is a polished style that looks great on so many body shapes. And because the pinafore is designed with shaping built in, it’s also a fab opportunity to practise fitting skills.

The good news? With a few simple tweaks, if you need it, you can get a custom fit that feels chef’s kiss perfect for your body. Let’s walk through some common adjustments you might want to make to your Noa…

What sizes are included in the Noa sewing pattern?

Whether you buy Noa as a printed or PDF pattern, there are 15 sizes included in every pattern, from UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62.

Of course, this is just a starting point. You may want to alter the pattern to get a more bespoke fit tailored to your unique body shape. Keep reading...

How is the Noa pinafore intended to fit?

Semi-fitted silhouette designed to skim the body without clinging - don't be tempted to make your Noa too fitted or it'll be tricky to get it on and off!
Round neckline sits roughly at the collar bone, and the lowest point of the V neckline is 10cm (4in) lower
High waistline seam hits above the natural waist
Easy-fitting at the waist, with an optional D ring waist adjuster if you prefer a more cinched look
Two hem lengths: mini or knee-length

What's a toile and do I need to make one?

A toile - or a "muslin" - is an initial mock up of your garment made in cheaper fabric so you can test the fit and decide if you want to make any adjustments before you cut into the good stuff. If you decide to make a toile, you should use fabric that is similar in weight and drape to the fabric you want to use for your final project, as it will affect how it hangs.

Can't summon the patience to make a separate toile? Make a "wearable toile" instead, which is a full version of the garment in fabric that you don't mind ditching if it doesn't fit straight out of the packet.

We recommend you make a toile for the Noa pinafore, or at least consider your first version a wearable toile, so that you can refine the fit to suit your body. If you don't have much suitable fabric to hand, you can make a toile just of the bodice so that you can test the fit around the shoulders, bust and waist. The skirt is relatively easy-fitting at the hips, so you can adjust this part as you sew.

We have a comprehensive blog post covering everything you need to know about toiles. Go check it out if you want to find out more!

How do I choose my sewing pattern size?

Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:

full bust - take the measurement at the fullest point, usually around your nipples
waist - where you bend at the side
hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is

Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.

Circle your full bust, waist and hip measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. If a measurement falls between sizes (for example, if your bust is 49in rather than 48in or 50in), it’s generally better to choose the larger size as you can take the pinafore in more easily than you can let it out.

However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by grading between sizes. We'll come to that later, but if you want to lengthen or shorten the pattern, it's best to do this adjustment first before you tackle anything else.

A quick note on bust sizing: If you have a particularly large bust, choosing a size based solely on your full bust measurement can mean that you'll end up with a pinafore that's too big for you at the shoulders, upper chest and waist. If you know your bust is on the larger side, have a look at the sections below on fitting the princess seams and how to do a full bust adjustment on a bodice with princess seams.

How to lengthen or shorten the Noa pinafore

Our patterns are drafted for a height of 5"5 (165cm). If you're particularly taller or shorter than this, or know you have a long or short torso or legs, you can change the length of the pinafore to fit you better.

Remember! If you alter the length of one piece, make the same adjustment to any pieces that join it, so the seams still match up.

We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Noa pattern pieces:

1) Bodice length

Noa's waist seam is designed to sit just above the natural waist.
You can alter the length of the bodice using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the centre front, side front, side back and centre back bodice pieces.
Remember to alter the length of all the bodice pieces by the same amount, including the front facing and front bodice interfacing strip pieces.
If you alter the length of the bodice, the length of zip you need will be different to that recommended in the Noa supplies list. Add/subtract the amount you plan to lengthen/shorten the bodice by to find the zip length you need.

1) Skirt length

You can lengthen or shorten the skirt length using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the front and back skirt pieces.
Measure the nape to hem measurement for your chosen version of Noa on your own body to help you decide whether to lengthen or shorten the skirt before cutting.
Noa pinafore has a generous 35cm (1 3/8in) hem allowance, so you can tweak the final length before hemming.

For more in-depth help on how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, see our dedicated tutorial (with video!) here.

Grading between bust, waist and hip sizes

If your bust, waist and hip are different sizes, you can grade between sizes to create a bespoke fit - here's how...

For different bust and waist sizes:

Starting at the bust notch, redraw the princess seams on all four bodice pattern pieces, so that they gradually taper from your bust size at the top to your waist size at the bottom.

Make sure to use the front and back facings that match your bust size, and pick the waist seam at the top of the skirt pieces that matches your waist size.

For different waist and hip sizes:

Starting 15mm (5/8in) down from the top of the waist seam, redraw the side seams on the front skirt and back skirt, from your waist size at the top to your hip size at the hip notch. As the skirt pattern pieces have curved side seams you can use a pattern master or French curve to help get a nice smooth line.

Remember to pick the waist seam at the bottom of the bodice pieces that matches your waist size, and mark the darts on the front and back skirts that correspond to your waist size too.

TIP: If you're grading to a smaller waist size from a larger hip size, make sure to check the finished waist measurement isn't drastically smaller than your hip measurement, or it'll be tricky to get your finished pinafore on and off! As a general guide, we wouldn’t recommend grading down to a waist size that is more than two sizes smaller than your hip size. Instead pick a waist size no more than two sizes smaller than your hip size, and then use the D ring adjuster to cinch in the waist, if that's the kind of look you prefer.

For more help on how to combine sewing pattern sizes, see our in-depth our tutorial here (+ video!).

Fitting a princess seam bodice

Spending the time to make a toile of Noa can really help you to see where you might need to take in or let out the princess seams, to suit your unique shape.

In this example, the bodice fits well across our model's full bust and waist, but it's loose across her upper chest.

To fix this, we pinned this excess out evenly across both of the front princess seams, and marked the new seam line on the toile.

TIP: Don’t be tempted to pin too closely to your body - Noa is a casual, semi-fitted design, rather than a figure-hugging one.

Next, we transferred this new stitching line to the side front and centre front bodices, and drew in the new cutting lines 15mm (5/8in) away from the stitching lines. Notice that this has made the front armhole shorter, so the front facing needed to be altered too, so that it matched the bodices along the front armhole seam.

In this example, the bodice fits the model's shoulders and waist well, but it's tight across her full bust, with drag lines pointing from bust towards the side seams and creasing above the bust.

To fix this, we opened up both princess seams over the bust to release the tension causing the drag lines, and then measured the gap to find out how much extra width needed to be added to the pattern. This gap on our model's toile was more than 15mm (5/8in), which indicated we needed to do a full bust adjustment (FBA). Find details on this in the section below on how to do a full bust adjustment on a bodice with princess seams.

If the gap on your toile is less than 15mm (5/8in), you might be able to get away with not doing a FBA. Instead, try adding the extra width you need at the bust by redrawing the front princess seam on the side front bodice, as shown above.

You will then need to measure your new side front princess seam, and lengthen the centre front bodice to match. Don't forget to also lengthen the front facing so that it still matches the front bodice along the front opening, and you'll need a longer zip to account for the longer front opening too.

How do I do a full bust adjustment on a bodice with princess seams?

Sizes 1-6 in our patterns (or UK 6-16 / US 2-12) are drafted for a 5cm (2in) difference between the high bust and full bust, while sizes 7-15 (or UK 18-34 / US 14-30) are drafted for a 10cm (4in) difference between the high bust and full bust.

If the difference between your high bust and full bust is significantly more than this for the size you’re making, or you've made a toile of Noa and you need more than 15mm (5/8in) extra room in the bust, then you might benefit from a full bust adjustment (FBA).

Check out our blog post on how to do a full bust adjustment on a princess seam bodice. It's packed full of step-by-step diagrams to show you how to do this adjustment.

Why this matters

Taking a little bit of extra time and effort to make a toile, grade between sizes, and alter the princess seams if you need to will give you a polished, comfortable pinafore that you'll reach for again and again.

With that being said, don't overwhelm yourself with too many changes or fall into the trap of trying to overfit Noa - sometimes good enough is more than good enough 😊

You’ve got this!

We can’t wait to see your Noa pinafore. Share your makes on Instagram and tag @TillyButtons with #SewingNoa - we’d love to feature yours!

P.S. If you liked this blog post you might like How to Sew a Facing Using the Burrito Method

*****
Author: Frances Wakefield
Photos: Jane Looker
Models: Jessica Harriott-Kerr + Rita Fitchett

How to make a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on a princess seam bodice

2025-10-17T11:45:00.002+01:00

Ever tried on a me-made dress or top, only to find it pulling across your bust, riding up at the waist, gaping awkwardly at the armholes, or sagging at the upper chest and shoulders? Don’t worry, you haven’t done anything wrong. Your pattern might just need a full bust adjustment (AKA an "FBA").

A full bust adjustment is a pattern alteration that adds room where you need it most, around the fullest part of your bust, while keeping the rest of the garment fitting nicely. If you’ve done an FBA before on a darted or dartless bodice, you might be wondering, "What about princess seams?".

That’s exactly what we’re covering here - how to do an FBA on a bodice with princess seams - those long, curved seams running over the bust instead of darts.

We’re demonstrating on our Noa pinafore dress sewing pattern. You can use the same method on other sewing patterns with princess seams, such as the Rosa shirt + dress.

Do you need a full bust adjustment?

You might need an FBA if:

Your bust feels squished even though the garment fits elsewhere
You can see horizontal drag lines across the chest
The waistline rides up at the centre front
The fabric gapes or bunches at the armholes

A quick way to check is to compare your high bust measurement (taken around your upper chest, just under your armpits) with your full bust measurement (measured around the fullest part, usually across the nipples).

If you’re making TATB sizes 1–6 (UK 6–16 - or any size in UK 6–24 patterns in our older patterns, such as Rosa), and your full bust is more than 5cm (2in) bigger than your high bust, you’ll likely need an FBA. If you’re making TATB sizes 7–15 (UK 18–34), and your full bust is more than 10cm (4in) bigger, we'd also recommend making an FBA.

What you’ll need:

Traced-off copy of the side front + centre front bodice pattern pieces*
Extra paper
Pen or pencil
Ruler or pattern master
Paper scissors and tape or glue
Measuring tape
Calico or other cheap fabric to make a toile

*Tip: Always trace off your pattern pieces before making adjustments so you can keep the originals intact.

How to do an FBA on princess seams

Make a toile (test garment) of at least the bodice of the pattern you're making in the size that matches your high bust measurement - NOT your full bust measurement. Mark your bust apex (nipple line) on both the centre front and side front pieces.

Open the princess seams on your toile at the bust to see how much extra room you need. Measure the gap between the bust apex markings – that’s how much to add to the pattern. In this example, the gap between the bust apex markings is 25mm (1in), so we'll be adding this amount to the pattern when doing the FBA.

On the side front bodice, mark the stitching lines 15mm (5/8in) in from the edge of the pattern piece along the front princess seam, armhole and side seam.

Using a ruler, draw four lines onto the side front bodice:

Line 1: from the princess seam stitching line at the waist to the bust point (the apex point you marked earlier)
Line 2: from the bust point to roughly 1/3 of the way along the armhole (if the armhole on the pattern you’re making is split across two pattern pieces, remember to take the full length of the armhole into account)
Line 3: from the bust point to the side seam
Line 4: from line 1 horizontally out to the princess seam cutting line, around 25mm (1in) up from the bottom of the pattern piece

Starting at the waist seam, cut along line 1, then pivot at the bust point to cut along line 2, stopping just before the stitching line at the armhole.

From the other side of the armhole stitching line, cut through the remainder of line 2, stopping just before the stitching line to leave a little “hinge”.

Cut through line 3 from the side seam to just before the bust point (where line 3 meets line 1) – this creates your second “hinge”.

Next, get a piece of paper slightly bigger than your side front bodice piece and draw two vertical parallel lines on it, with the distance between them the amount you want to add to the bust (measured when you tried on your toile).

Carefully place the pattern piece on top of the paper and tape the side front piece down along the front princess seam, aligning cut line 1 with one of the vertical lines drawn on the paper underneath.

Using the hinges you created earlier, gently pull at the side seam of the side front pattern piece to increase the opening at line 1 by the required amount. Make sure to increase the width evenly all the way down by aligning the moveable side of cut line 1 with the second vertical line drawn on the paper underneath. Tape or glue in place.

To make room for the width you’ve added, you’ll see that line 3 has opened, creating a "dart" – we’ll come back shortly to close this dart up, but for now, tape or glue it in place.

In pivoting the piece to add more width, we’ve created a step along the waist seam, so let’s even that out.

Cut along line 4 from the front princess seam to where it meets line 1 – we don’t need to create a hinge here, so you can cut all the way through. Slide this small square you’ve just cut down until its bottom edge is level with the bottom edge of your pattern piece, and make sure to keep the spacing the same as you did all the way along line 1. Tape or glue in place, and reconnect the waist seam and front princess seam.

Now to close the dart we opened up along line 3. Trim off the excess paper around your pattern piece so there’s about 1cm (3/8in) left around the edges. With a ruler, draw a straight line to extend line 3 all the way across the paper.

Now we need to create another hinge. Cut along line 3 from the side seam and stop just before the bust point. From the front princess seam, cut through the remainder of line 3, stopping again just before the bust point.

Using the hinge you’ve just made, pivot the pattern piece so that the top and bottom of line 3 meet and the original side seam is joined up again. Tape in place. You’ll notice that in closing line 3, you’ve opened a smaller dart along the front princess seam – place a small piece of paper underneath this dart, tape it in place, and draw a smooth curve to rejoin the front princess seam across the dart.

Now to remove the extra width that’s been added to the waist at the side seam. Mark a point along the waist seam that is the same width in from the side seam as the amount you added in at the bust. Draw in a new side seam from the point you just marked at the waist seam to where line 3 meets the side seam.

Smooth out the armhole seam if needed, and remember to transfer any notches to your newly drawn side seam.

Cut away any excess paper to leave you with a freshly altered side front bodice piece, which should look something like this:

All that’s left to do now is to lengthen the centre front bodice so that the princess seams match up when sewn together.

Using a ruler, draw two horizontal lines across your centre front bodice piece, at right angles to the grainline:

25mm (1in) up from the waist seam (shown in orange above)
From the bust notch to the centre front (shown in blue above)

Cut all the way along the two lines you’ve just drawn to split the centre front bodice into 3 pieces. Label the parts 1, 2 and 3 as shown above.

Tape part 1 of your centre front bodice onto a piece of paper. Using a ruler, draw a horizontal line underneath part 1, parallel to the cut edge, with the distance away equal to the extra length added to the seam line across the small dart on your side front bodice. Tape down part 2 of your centre front bodice, aligning the top cut edge with the horizontal line you’ve just drawn, and the centre front with the centre front of part 1.

Repeat for part 3 of your centre front bodice, adding in the same amount of length added at the bottom of your side front bodice.

Smooth out the front princess seam, and reconnect the centre front across all three parts.

And that’s it - your princess seam bodice now has extra room where you need it, without throwing off the rest of the fit.

Final tips

Always make another toile to check the fit after your adjustment. It may need a little more tweaking.
Give your princess seams a good steamy press after sewing to help them sit nicely.

Remember: needing to make pattern adjustments is totally normal. We are all different shapes, and they’re simply part of customising your garment to suit your body.

Once you’ve nailed this, you’ll be able to sew beautifully fitted princess seam bodices again and again.

P.S. If you liked this blog post you might like How to Sew Princess Seams.

*****
Author: Frances Wakefield
Photos: Jane Looker
Model: Rita Fitchett

Say Hello to the Noa Pinafore Sewing Pattern!

2025-10-15T08:00:00.007+01:00

Introducing Noa – A pinafore sewing pattern with a modern twist

Looking for a new sewing project to update your handmade wardrobe? Meet Noa, the pinafore with a polished silhouette and modern details that will quickly become a year-round fave. With a princess seam bodice, exposed zip and optional D-ring waist adjuster, Noa blends classic lines with contemporary style.

Designed for improvers - it’s a rewarding sew that you’ll be proud to wear on repeat.

Available in printed and PDF + projector formats, in sizes UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62.

GET THE NOA SEWING PATTERN

Noa pinafore pattern design details

Here’s what makes the Noa pinafore sewing pattern a project you (and your wardrobe!) will love:

Semi-fitted silhouette, subtly shaped with princess seams and waist darts
High waistline with optional D ring adjuster at the back for a customisable fit
Exposed zip front opening
Choice of round neck or V neck, finished with an all-in-one facing
Choice of mini or knee-length hemline
Award-winning photo-rich instructions to guide you every step of the way

Noa sewing pattern sizes and format options

The Noa sewing pattern is available in two formats:

Printed pattern – Receive the pattern printed on durable white paper, along with a full-colour photo instruction booklet, delivered to your door.
PDF pattern – Instant download to print at home (A4/Letter) or at a copyshop (A0), with layered sizes so you only print the size(s) you need, or use with a projector for easy sewing.

Both include 15 sizes (UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62), with TATB’s signature clear, beginner-friendly instructions to make sewing feel simple and fun.

GET THE NOA SEWING PATTERN

Best fabrics for the Noa pinafore

The Noa pinafore works beautifully in medium- to heavy-weight woven fabrics that have enough body to hold the shape. We made our samples in denim and needlecord, but there are plenty of fab options to try:

Denim (light to mid-weight) – a classic choice for pinafores that lasts for years
Corduroy or needlecord – adds cosy texture and retro vibes
Twill – structured with a clean finish, perfect for a polished look
Jacquard – for a statement piece with pattern and texture
Wool suiting – chic, warm and winter-ready

You’ll also need:

An exposed zip (size depends on the neckline and size chosen)
2 x 30mm (1/8 in) D-rings if you want to add the waist adjuster option
Iron-on interfacing (similar weight to your fabric)
Matching thread
Sewing machine and basic sewing tools

We have a limited number of Noa hardware kits with top quality notions in just the right size.

Check the full fabric requirements and notions list on the Noa product page.

GET THE NOA SEWING PATTERN

Is the Noa pinafore beginner-friendly?

Noa is rated improver level, which means it’s a great choice if you’ve sewn a few simple garments already and want to stretch your skills. With techniques like princess seams, installing an exposed zip and attaching an all-in-one facing with the clever "burrito method", it’s the perfect way to build confidence while still enjoying TATB’s famously clear instructions.

As always, you have access to our pattern support page packed with extra sewing tips, video tutorials and fitting advice to help you along the way.

EXPLORE NOA SEWING SUPPORT

Share your Noa makes!

We LOVE seeing your creations. Share your handmade Noa pinafore on Instagram by tagging @TillyButtons and using the hashtag #SewingNoa – we can’t wait to see how you style yours!

*****

Fabrics: Stretch denim in ecru and Dashwood Studio Florali 21 wale needlecord, both from Fabrics Galore

Models: Rita Fitchett and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Louise Heywood

Sample sewing: Susan Young and Frances Wakefield

How to Sew a Bar Tack (+ video!)

2025-08-13T09:49:00.002+01:00

Need some extra reinforcement on those high-stress points in your sewing project? You’ll spot bar tacks on our sewing patterns like the Winnie trousers, Thea trousers, Pearl cardigan, Cece joggers and Ness skirt - where they’re often used to strengthen pocket corners, zip flies, and openings. A bar tack is a short, secure zigzag stitch that helps your handmade clothes stand up to everyday wear and tear.

In this beginner-friendly tutorial, we’ll show you how to sew a bar tack using your regular sewing machine. Once you’ve got the hang of it, you’ll be adding them to all your makes!

Scroll down to watch the video tutorial.

What is a bar tack?

A bar tack is a short, dense zigzag stitch used to reinforce stress points on garments. You'll often find them at:

The top corners of pockets
Zip fly openings
The edges of openings that need extra durability

Bar tacks don’t just serve a functional purpose - they also give your handmade clothes a professional-looking finish.

How to sew a bar tack

1. Mark your line

To help keep your stitching neat and straight, draw a short guideline—usually around 10mm (3/8in) long—where you want your bar tack to go. Use a chalk pencil or a heat-erasable pen so the mark can be removed after sewing.

2. Set up your machine

Switch your machine to a zigzag stitch. For light- to medium-weight fabrics, try these settings to start with:

Width: 2.5
Length: 0.5

If you’re sewing thicker fabrics like denim, corduroy or thick sweatshirt fleece, you might want to increase the width slightly and lengthen the stitch a bit. Test on a fabric scrap first and adjust until you're happy with the result.

3. Position your needle

Place the needle at the start of your marked line. Lower the presser foot to hold the fabric in place.

Tip: If you’re sewing over a bulky area (like a side seam or pocket edge), press and hold the small black button at the back of the presser foot as you lower it. This helps keep the foot level.

4. Stitch the bar tack

Sew a short line of zigzag stitches over your marked guide. Keep the stitches close together to create a dense, secure finish. Stitch for about 10mm (3/8in) in length, and then back tack (reverse stitch) to secure.

Finished!

And that’s it – your bar tack is done! Easy peasy, right?

This simple technique makes a huge difference in helping your handmade clothes last longer, especially in places that get tugged and pulled during everyday wear.

Happy sewing!

Liked this blog post? Check out How to Sew a Zip Fly and How to Stitch in the Ditch.

Fitting the Winnie Trousers

2025-08-08T12:00:00.002+01:00

Our Winnie trouser sewing pattern aims to blend comfort with style with a softly rounded barrel-leg shape, a flat-fronted elasticated high waistband, and optional pockets. Nailing the fit at waist, hip, and length means a polished finished result.

In this post, we’ll guide you through how Winnie is designed to fit, how to adjust the rise and leg length, how to grade between different waist and hip sizes, and how to fine-tune the waistband fit.

How the Winnie trousers are designed to fit

The waistband is flat‑fronted with elastic at the back for a comfy yet clean silhouette
The barrel leg is gently rounded, the side seam towards the front, and the leg skimming the body without clinging
The ankle-skimming hem strikes a modern balance - comfortable with flats or boots

Winnie is available in printed and layered PDF formats, with sizes UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62. Sizes 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to the other sizes to create a better fit for different proportions, with a bit more room at the waist and a deeper rise.

How do I choose my sewing pattern size?

Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:

waist - where you bend at the side
hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is

Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.

Circle your waist and hip measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. If a measurement falls between sizes (for example, if your hips are 42in rather than 41in or 43in), it’s better to choose the larger size as you can take the trousers in more easily than you can let them out.

How to lengthen or shorten the Winnie trousers

Remember! If you alter the length of one piece, make the same adjustment to any pieces that join it, so the seams still match up.

We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Winnie pattern pieces:

1) Rise length

Winnie is high-rise, i.e. designed to sit at the natural waistline.
You can alter the length of the rise using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the upper part of the front and back leg.
Lengthen if you're tall overall, or find trousers often come up a bit too low rise for you.
Shorten if you're short overall, or find trousers often come up a bit too high rise for you.

2) Leg length

You can lengthen or shorten the leg length using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the lower part of the front and back leg.
Compare the inside leg measurement for the Winnie trousers to your own inside leg measurement before you decide whether to lengthen or shorten the legs before cutting.
Winnie trousers have a generous 5cm (2in) hem allowance, so you can tweak the final length before hemming. However, to maintain the barrel shape, it's best to lengthen or shorten the pattern higher up if you will be making significant changes to the length.

For more in-depth help on how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, see our dedicated tutorial (with video!) here.

Grading between waist and hip sizes

If your waist and hip are different sizes, you can grade between sizes to create a bespoke fit - here's how...

For version without front pockets:

Mark your waist size at the waist seam on the front leg and your hip size at the hip notch. Draw a smooth transition between the two to create a new side seam and front crotch seam.

For version with front pockets:

Place the front leg on top of the front pocket bag. Pin or tape the pieces together along the size lines for the size you want at the waist, aligning the waist seam and hip notches. Draw a new side seam line starting from the waist on the pocket bag to the hip notch for your hip size on the front leg, then continue this line along the front leg side seam until you're in line with the bottom of the pocket bag.

Trace the new side seam and hip notch from the front leg onto the front pocket bag, and extend the bottom edge to meet the new side seam. To do this, you may need to tape some extra paper to the pocket bag.

On the front leg, extend the pocket opening that matches your waist size to meet the new side seam, and true the seam allowance corner. Draw a smooth curve to blend between your waist and hip size along the front crotch seam.

Trace the new side seam, hip notch and pocket opening from the front leg to the front pocket facing and front pocket interfacing strip pieces, taping on extra paper if needed.

For all versions:

Mark your waist size at the waist seam on the back leg and your hip size at the hip notch. Draw a smooth transition between the two to create a new side seam and back crotch seam.

Cut the front and back waistband in your waist size.

Tip: Winnie is a pull-on style without a zip or button opening, so you need to be able to pull the waistband over your hips. That means if you're combining a smaller waist size with a larger hip size, make sure to check the finished waist measurement isn't smaller than your hip measurement. As a general guide, we wouldn’t recommend grading down to a waist size that is more than two sizes smaller than your hip size. Instead pick a waist size no more than two sizes smaller than your hip size and then let the elastic at the waist cinch in to fit you.

For more help on how to combine sewing pattern sizes, see our in-depth our tutorial here (+ video!).

Fit as you sew

Tack (baste) the side seams first. Try Winnie on before finishing →

Make the leg wider or narrower by adjusting seam allowances.
Want more hip ease? Let out the side seam gently.

Check comfort and hip shape mid-construction for the perfect silhouette.

Adjusting the waistband elastic

The instructions include a step to try on the elasticated waistband before topstitching it and attaching it to the legs. Don't skip this step!

Use the elastic guideline included in the instructions, then customise to your preference. The weight of your fabric and firmness of your elastic can affect the fit of the waistband.

Try the waistband on and test it fits comfortably both seated and standing.
If it feels loose, remove the elastic and shorten.
If it feels tight, cut a slightly longer piece and reattach.

Final fit check before hemming

Before finishing the hem, try Winnie on again to confirm:

Waistband fits snugly without pinching
Barrel-leg shape is smooth and hangs well (remember, the side seams are designed to be visible from the front)
Pockets sit flat
Hemline hits evenly around the ankle

Why this matters

A little fitting effort now means trousers you love wearing. Taking the time to grade between sizes, test waistband tension, and check pocket alignment gives you a polished, comfortable finish, and increases the chances of Winnie becoming your go-to pattern.

You’ve got this!

We can’t wait to see your Winnie trousers. Share your makes on Instagram and tag @TillyButtons with #SewingWinnie - we’d love to feature yours!

If you liked this blog post you might like Common Trouser Fitting Adjustments!

New Sewing Pattern! Meet the Winnie Barrel Leg Trousers

2025-08-06T07:00:00.001+01:00

Embrace barrel-leg style with the Winnie trousers

Looking for your next wardrobe staple that’s both stylish and easy to sew? Introducing the Winnie barrel leg trouser pattern, featuring a modern barrel-leg silhouette and comfy pull-on design. Designed for confident beginners and beyond, Winnie is your wardrobe’s missing piece - ready to be worn again and again.

Available in printed and PDF formats, in sizes UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62.

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

Winnie trouser pattern design details

Here’s what makes the Winnie trousers a sewing project you'll reach for over and over:

Barrel‑leg shape that flatters with a gently rounded silhouette
Flat‑front elastic waistband with no zips, no buttons, no fuss
Ankle‑skimming length that transitions effortlessly through the seasons
Optional pockets – curved front, back patch, or both!
Jargon‑free, step‑by‑step photo instructions make sewing a breeze
Ideal for confident beginners, or anyone craving a quick, satisfying make

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

Winnie trouser sewing pattern sizes and format options

The Winnie sewing pattern is available in two formats:

Printed pattern – Delivered to your door with a full colour instruction booklet
PDF pattern – Instant download to print at home or at a copyshop

Both include 15 sizes (UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62), and our award-winning beginner-friendly instructions with step-by-step photos will guide you every step of the way.

Order the printed pattern, and we’ll send you a beautifully packaged sewing envelope with durable paper pattern sheets – perfect for keeping in your sewing stash! If you opt for the PDF version, you can print it at home (A4/Letter size) or at a copyshop (A0 size). Plus, with layered sizes, you can print only what you need – yay!

The Winnie PDF pattern includes a projector file.

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

Best fabrics for the Winnie trousers

Choosing the right fabric is key - Winnie looks and feels best in medium-weight woven fabrics that aren't too thick. We used cotton twill for the blue model sample, double gauze for the pink. Here are some top choices:

Cotton twill (e.g. chino, gabardine) – durable and crisp for a semi-structured shape, works year-round
Chambray – lighter than denim, breathable with some drape, and great for spring/summer makes
Linen or linen–viscose blends – cool, casual and breathable, ideal for warmer weather
Double gauze – light and breezy, lovely for a casual trouser with a softer silhouette
Needlecord – with subtle ribs for structure and soft texture—an autumn/winter favourite

You’ll also need:

40mm (1 1/2in) wide elastic
Approx. 0.25 m iron-on interfacing – to stabilise waist and pocket openings
Matching thread
Sewing machine and basic sewing tools

Check the full fabric requirements and notions list on the Winnie product page.

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

Is the Winnie trousers pattern beginner-friendly?

Yes! Winnie is rated confident beginner, meaning it's ideal if you've sewn a few simple garments and want to stretch your skills just a little.

We walk you through every step with our photo-rich instructions and have a dedicated pattern support page packed with extra sewing tips, video help, and fitting advice.

If you're new to:

Trousers
Pockets
Inserting elastic

...then Winnie is a great next step in your sewing journey.

EXPLORE WINNIE SEWING SUPPORT

Share your Winnie makes

We LOVE seeing what you sew! Show off your handmade Winnie trousers by tagging @TillyButtons and using the hashtag #SewingWinnie on Instagram.

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

*****

Fabrics: Sevenberry Kobe Cotton Twill Fabric from Minerva and Pink checkerboard double gauze from Sew Me Sunshine (out of stock)

Models: Rita Fitchett and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Louise Heywood

Samples sewn by Susan Young

How to Sew an Exposed Frill Seam

2025-06-18T07:00:00.001+01:00

Want to give your gathered seams a pretty, professional-looking finish? Try sewing an exposed frill seam – it adds a gorgeous textured detail to skirts, dresses and sleeves, and it’s much easier than it looks!

In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to sew an exposed frill seam step by step.

We’re demonstrating the technique on the Luella skirt pattern, but you can also use it to attach a gathered skirt or sleeves to a dress, like the Indigo smock top + dress, or even the lower part of a two-piece sleeve such as the Marnie blouse + mini dress - or anywhere you want to attach a gathered piece with a neat, visible finish.

Watch the video below to see the technique in action, or scroll down for step-by-step instructions!

What you’ll need

Your sewing project – we’re using the Luella skirt sewing pattern
Sewing machine
Overlocker/serger (optional)
Thread – matching and contrast
Pins and scissors
Tape measure
Iron and ironing board

Step 1: Prep the pieces

(1) We're going to start by hemming the top edge of the piece that will have the gathered exposed frill - for Luella, this is the lower skirt tier; for Indigo, this is the skirt. Press the raw edge under by 5mm (¼in) to the wrong side, then press it under by another 5mm (¼in). Pin in place.

Using a straight stitch, sew close to the inner fold to secure the hem in place.

(2) Next, finish the raw edge of the piece you’ll attach the gathered frill to - for Luella, this is the lower edge of the upper skirt tier; for Indigo, this is the lower edge of the bodice. You can use an overlocker (serger) or zigzag stitch – just make sure not to trim the seam.

Using a long (4-5mm) straight stitch and contrast colour thread, tack (baste) a line 25mm (1in) above the finished edge. This will be your guideline for positioning the gathered piece later.

Step 2: Prep the gather stitches

Still using a contrast thread and long stitch length, and this time with a low thread tension, sew three parallel rows of gather stitches along the top edge of your hemmed frill, between one side seam and the other. Leave long thread tails at each end – and don’t back tack! Sewing the gathers at the following distances from the top will avoid the seam line and thus make them easier to unpick later:

7mm (¼in)
12mm (½in)
18mm (¾in)

Step 3: Pin the layers together

Fold both pieces in half lengthways to find the centre front and back, and mark with pins at the hemmed and finished edges. This will help to distribute the gathers evenly.

With both pieces right sides out, slip the piece with the tacked guideline inside the gathered piece, so the hemmed edge of the frill sits along the tacking line. Pin them together at the centre pins and side seams. You should only be pinning two layers together – not four.

Step 4: Gather and pin

Starting at one end of gather stitches, gently pull on the top three threads to gather up the fabric. Smoosh them along with your fingers, until the pieces are the same length between each set of pins (side seam to centre, etc). Spread the gathers with your fingers so they're evenly distributed, then pin the two layers together using plenty of pins at right angles to the edge.

Repeat for all four quarters.

Step 5: Sew the exposed seam

Carefully turn your garment wrong sides out. Place it on your sewing machine so you’re sewing inside the loop, with the gathers facing up – this helps you keep control and avoid catching the other half of the garment.

Using matching thread and a regular stitch length, topstitch 15mm (⅝in) from the hemmed edge of the gathered piece. You won't be able to see the seam allowance guide, so you can use a tape measure to check you're sewing at the correct distance initially, then keep the hemmed edge at the same distance from the edge of the presser foot. Take your time, pausing with the needle down when you need to so you can even out the gathers with your fingers.

Pull out your tacking and gathering stitches, and admire your beautiful exposed frill seam!

Ready to try it?

Now you know how to sew an exposed frill seam, why not give it a go on your next project? It’s a great way to level up your makes and show off your sewing skills – even if you’re still a beginner! Grab the Luella skirt or Indigo smock + dress pattern to try it out today.

Happy sewing!

Fitting the Luella Skirt

2025-06-13T07:00:00.002+01:00

So you’ve picked out your dream fabric and printed your Luella skirt pattern… now let’s talk about fit!

Luella is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.

Luella is designed to be easy to wear, with a comfy elasticated waist and lots of swish from the gathered tiers – but that doesn’t mean we’re skipping the fitting step. In this post, we’ll walk you through how Luella is designed to fit, how to adjust the length, and how to tweak the fit at the waist and hips to suit your body.

Whether you’re new to fitting or a seasoned pro, we’ve got your back...

How the Luella skirt is designed to fit

Luella is all about comfort and flow, with a polished silhouette that looks great dressed up or down.

The top tier is gently shaped to skim your hips, creating a silhouette that’s not too clingy and not too loose – just right!
The lower tiers are gathered and swishy, adding movement and a touch of drama (yes please!).
The waistband is elasticated, but it’s designed to sit snugly at your waist, holding the skirt in place without digging in.

How do I choose my sewing pattern size?

Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:

waist - where you bend at the side
hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is

Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.

However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes. We'll come to that later, but if you want to lengthen or shorten the pattern, it's best to do this adjustment first before you tackle anything else.

How to lengthen or shorten the Luella skirt

The finished garment measurements chart (above) tells you how long the finished skirt will be. Want it to be longer or shorter? No problem!

Each tier has a lengthen/shorten line marked on the pattern, so you can easily customise it to suit your style or height. We have a blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, which shows you step-by-step how to make this adjustment.

When lengthening:

Add the extra length between the tiers rather than just at the hem, to keep the balance of the design.
Spread the extra amount evenly across the tiers using the lengthen/shorten lines.
You can also add a little more to the hem if needed – just be sure to try it on before hemming so you can get it just right.

When shortening:

Similarly, divide the total amount you want to shorten between the tiers.
Shortening just at the hem can make the bottom tier look a little squashed – spreading it out helps keep those gorgeous proportions.

Tip: If you’re unsure what length you want, try your skirt on before hemming to see where it hits – especially if you're planning to wear it with different shoe styles!

Grading between waist and hip sizes

If your waist and hip measurements fall into different sizes, you can grade between them on the side seam of the top tier.

Here's what to do:

At the top of the first tier, mark your waist size.
At the hip notch, mark your hip size.
Draw a smooth line to connect them.
Cut the second (and third) tier(s) in your hip size.
Cut the waistband in your waist size.

BUT! If your hips are more than two sizes bigger than your waist, you’ll need to make sure the skirt can still be pulled on over your hips.

In that case:

Choose a waist size that’s no more than two sizes smaller than your hips.
Let the elastic in the waistband cinch it in to fit your waist.
You may still want to grade a little at the top tier side seam – just not as dramatically.

For more help on how to combine sewing pattern sizes, check out in-depth our tutorial here (+ video!).

Don’t forget the pocket pieces!

If you grade the top tier side seam, you’ll need to adjust the pocket bag and interfacing pieces to match.

Option 1: Trace the new side seam shape onto the pocket bag and interfacing pieces so everything lines up perfectly.
Option 2: If the pocket pieces still match the graded side seam well enough, you can leave them as is. If you just need to tweak the waist seam slightly, stick a scrap of paper to the top to add a bit of extra width there.

Not sure about the fit? Try a toile first!

If you’re unsure how the top tier will fit over your hips, or you’re sewing with precious fabric, it’s a good idea to test the fit first. Here are three easy options:

Option 1: Make a quick toile - or mock up in cheap fabric - of the first tier + waistband in scrap fabric to test fit and waistline placement.
Option 2: Using your "real" project fabric, tack together (baste) the first tier pieces without pockets, then try it on and adjust as needed before sewing for real.
Option 3: Sew your first version without pockets, so you can easily adjust the side seams if needed and add pockets next time!

If you want to delve deeper into the subject, check out Tilly's blog post which goes through everything you need to know about toiles.

Final tips for a great fit

The elastic waistband means you’ve got wiggle room – perfect if your waist measurement fluctuates.
Make sure the waistband fits snugly before stitching the elastic closed, you can always unpick and shorten the elastic if it feels too loose.
Try on your skirt before hemming to check the length, and don't forget, different shoes can make a big difference to the vibe!

You’ve got this!

The Luella skirt sewing pattern is a joy to sew – and once you’ve sewn one, don’t be surprised if you’re already planning your second (or third!). A few simple fit adjustments can make all the difference in helping you feel amazing in your handmade skirt.

New Sewing Pattern! Meet the Luella skirt

2025-06-11T07:00:00.000+01:00

Introducing Luella – the ultimate tiered skirt sewing pattern

Looking for a swooshy, swishy skirt that’s fun to sew and easy to wear? We’ve got just the thing! Say hello to the Luella skirt sewing pattern, our 50th individual sewing pattern here at Tilly and the Buttons (can you believe it?!). Whether you're dressing for a sunny stroll, a summer party or just love a statement skirt, Luella is ready to bring drama and joy to your handmade wardrobe.

Available in printed and PDF formats, and designed for confident beginners, this tiered skirt sewing pattern is simple to sew, stylish to wear – and packed with options.

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

Luella skirt pattern design details

The Luella sewing pattern is a tiered skirt with lots of personality and just enough ruffle! Here’s what makes this skirt a must-sew:

Two length options – midi or maxi skirt
Hip-skimming top tier with beautifully swishy lower tiers
Optional exposed frill seams for added flair
Elasticated waistband – no zips or buttons required!
In-seam pockets that stay put and don’t flap about
Clear, beginner-friendly instructions with step-by-step photos

Luella is the perfect sewing project if you’ve made a few garments and want to grow your confidence. The gathering and tiered construction are easy to master, and the result is seriously swoon-worthy.

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

Luella skirt sewing pattern sizes and format options

The Luella sewing pattern is available in two formats:

Printed pattern – Delivered to your door with a full colour instruction booklet
PDF pattern – Instant download to print at home or at a copyshop

Both include 15 sizes (UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62), and our award-winning beginner-friendly instructions with step-by-step photos will guide you every step of the way.

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

Best fabrics for the Luella Skirt

Choosing the right fabric makes all the difference! The Luella skirt looks stunning in a variety of lightweight woven fabrics, from swishy viscose to breathable cottons.

Here are some great fabric options for Luella:

Viscose/rayon – for a floaty, draped effect
Cotton lawn or poplin – for a crisp, structured finish
Linen or linen blends – perfect for summer skirts
Double gauze – for a soft, voluminous silhouette

You’ll also need:

50mm (2in) wide elastic
Matching thread
Sewing machine and basic sewing tools

Check the full fabric requirements and notions list on the Luella product page.

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

Is the Luella skirt pattern beginner friendly?

Yes! Luella is rated confident beginner, meaning it's ideal if you've sewn a few simple garments and want to stretch your skills just a little.

We walk you through every step with our photo-rich instructions and have a dedicated pattern support page packed with extra sewing tips, video help, and fitting advice.

If you're new to:

Gathering fabric
Attaching ruffles or frills
Inserting elastic
Sewing in-seam pockets

...then Luella is a great next step in your sewing journey.

EXPLORE LUELLA SEWING SUPPORT

Share your Luella makes

We LOVE seeing what you sew! Show off your handmade Luella skirt by tagging @TillyButtons and using the hashtag #SewingLuella on Instagram. Let’s spread some Luella love and inspire others to start their handmade skirt too!

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

*****

Fabrics: Pink + Green Cotton Poplin; Black + White Gingham Linen with Jumbo Ric Rac

Models: Sinead Dekker and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Charlotte at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young

Fitting the Samara Top Sewing Pattern

2025-04-05T07:30:00.001+01:00

Making the Samara top sewing pattern and need a helping hand choosing your size and fitting? Then you're in the right place 😊

Samara is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.

We designed the Samara top to be suitable for beginners, which means it's not only simple to sew, but it's also relatively easy to fit too - yay! Here we'll go through some of the most common fitting adjustments you might want to make to your Samara, but it's most likely you'll only need to make one or two tweaks, if any.

In this post, we're going to cover:

How the Samara pattern is designed to fit
Making a toile
Choosing your size
Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
Combining pattern sizes at the bust/waist/hip
Making adjustments for a larger bust
Altering the neckline

How is the Samara top pattern intended to fit?

Samara has an intentionally oversized fit without darts, which means the top has a relaxed, modern style. It features dropped shoulder seams and deep sleeves, as well as two hem lengths to choose from.

This style of top isn't designed to fit closely around your sides and underarms, so don't get lured into over-fitting it. Some soft folds in the fabric are to be expected, and they'll disappear and reappear depending on how your arms are positioned.

Your fabric choice can affect the look and feel of your Samara top too. If you're using a more crisp, structured fabric, like linen or cotton, then any folds in the fabric will be more noticeable than if you made the top in something more fluid and drapey, like a viscose.

What's a toile and do I need to make one?

If you can't summon the patience to make a separate toile, you may want to make a "wearable toile", which is a full version of the garment in fabric that you don't mind ditching if it doesn't fit straight out of the packet.

If you want to delve deeper into the subject, check out Tilly's blog post which goes through everything you need to know about toiles.

However, making a toile isn't necessarily a requirement for Samara. It's designed to be easy-fitting, with lots of ease (AKA excess fabric), so there's a lot more leeway on this pattern compared to a more fitted garment.

How do I choose my sewing pattern size?

Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:

bust - take the measurement at the fullest point, usually around your nipples
waist - where you bend at the side
hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is

Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.

Circle your measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If a measurement falls between two sizes (for example, if your full bust is 37in rather than 36in or 38in), it’s usually better to choose the larger size as you can take a garment in more easily than you can let it out. However, for the Samara top pattern, you can choose the smaller size if you want to, because it's designed to be roomy, or, if we're getting technical, it has a lot of design ease.

If your body measurements all fall into one size row on the chart, then that’s easy-peasy – you’re going to cut out that size. If your bust, waist and hips fall into different sizes, don’t worry, that’s absolutely normal and we'll get onto how to combine pattern sizes, but if you want to lengthen or shorten the pattern bodice and/or sleeve, it's best to do this adjustment first, before you tackle anything else.

The body measurement chart also lists ‘high bust’, which you’ll only need to take if you think you need to make a full bust adjustment - more on that in the section below on full bust adjustments.

How do I lengthen or shorten the pattern?

Our patterns are drafted for a height of 5'5" (165cm), so if you're a little (or a lot) taller or shorter than this, have a particularly long or short torso or arms, or you want to change the length of the bodice or sleeves to suit your own personal style it's easy to adjust the pattern pieces.

We have a blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, which shows you step-by-step how to make this adjustment.

If you're lengthening or shortening the Samara bodice pattern pieces, remember to adjust both the front and back bodices by the same amount so that the side seams still match up.

We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Samara pattern pieces:

1) Bodice

If you often find that tops are a bit too short or long for you in the bodice, you can lengthen or shorten the front and back bodice pattern pieces using the lengthen or shorten lines. We've included the nape to hem measurements for both the hip-length and cropped versions of Samara in the finished garment measurements section of the booklet, so you can check if this length is right for you.

The lengthen or shorten lines on the Samara bodices are between the waist notch and the cropped length hemline. You can adjust your pattern here if you feel like you need a bit more length, or conversely a bit less, in the torso.

2) Sleeve

Whether you're making the straight sleeves or the elasticated sleeves, the process for altering the length is exactly the same.

The bracelet-length straight sleeve is designed to sit above the wrist, and the short straight sleeve at the crease of the elbow. The full-length elasticated sleeve is designed to sit on the wrist, and the elbow-length elasticated sleeve just below the elbow. If you know you have particularly long or short arms you can adjust the sleeves accordingly.

The short straight sleeve doesn't have any lengthen or shorten lines, but it's still very simple to change the length. If you want to shorten the sleeve, draw a line parallel to the sleeve hem, with the distance between the line you've drawn and the sleeve hem equal to the amount you want to reduce the pattern piece by and cut away the excess. If you want to lengthen the short straight sleeve, stick the bottom of the sleeve to a piece of paper, and draw a line parallel to the sleeve hem, with the distance between the line you've drawn and the sleeve hem equal to the amount you want to lengthen it by. Continue the underarm seam on both sides until it reaches the new sleeve hem.

How do I combine pattern sizes?

If your bust, waist and hip measurements fall in different sizes on the body measurements chart, you can grade between these areas to get a bespoke fit for your exact body measurements. Check out our blog post which explains how to combine sizes.

If you’re making the hip-length version of Samara, to keep the side seams nice and smooth, don't worry about grading to your waist size, as that part is loose-fitting anyway. Simply choose your full bust size for the top section of the pattern and grade to your hip size along the bodice side seams. However, if your waist is five or more sizes bigger or smaller than your bust or hips, I’d recommend grading out or in to your waist size to make sure it fits.

Make sure you cut the sleeve, front facing and back facing pieces in the same size as the top section of the bodice, so that all the pieces still fit together nicely.

How do I do a full bust adjustment on a bodice without darts?

If the difference between your high bust and full bust is significantly more than this for the size you’re making, or if you know you usually need to make a full bust adjustment, then you can select your size based on your high bust measurement – because if you picked your size based on your full bust measurement instead, the shoulders and upper chest could end up too big for your frame.

With Samara, as there’s so much ease in the pattern (more than 9in at the bust), in most cases you won’t need to do a full bust adjustment when picking a size based on your high bust measurement, unless your full bust is 4 or more pattern sizes bigger than your high bust - in which case, check out our blog post on how to do a full bust adjustment on a dartless bodice.

How do I alter the V neckline?

If you'd like to adjust the depth of Samara's V neckline, it's easy peasy to redraft it to suit your personal taste.

First, decide how much you want to raise or lower the neckline. Starting at the centre front fold line, measure down from the neckline by this amount and mark here if you want to lower it, or stick some paper underneath, measure up by this amount and extend the fold line to raise it.

If you want to bring the top of the neckline in at the shoulders, you can extend the shoulder seam. Make the same adjustment on the back bodice so the shoulder seams match up, squaring off the corners into a right angle so the seams match up.

Connect up the fold line and shoulder seam with a gentle curve. You can use a curved ruler for this, or sketch it in freehand following a similar shape to the existing neckline. Don't forget to transfer the notches to your new neckline.

You'll also need to make the same alterations to the neckline facing(s). (If you raised the bodice neckline, remember to stick some extra paper underneath the facing.) Lay the facing(s) over the bodice(s), aligning it with the original bodice pattern lines. Trace the new neckline and transfer the notches from the bodice onto the facing.

And now all that's left to do is to put the pivot point back in the correct place on the front facing. Measure up or down from the pivot point by the same amount that you raised or lowered the neckline, then mark the new pivot point along the centre front fold line.

I hope this post has given you a few useful tips for fitting your Samara top. Remember, don't try to overfit this style of top and embrace Samara's modern, relaxed vibe.

Please share with us your finished makes and progress shots on Instagram, tagging @TillyButtons with the hashtag #SewingSamara. We're so excited to see what you make!

*****

Fabrics: White Swiss dot double gauze; Scallop cotton lawn; Pink + red cotton seersucker; Olive green washed linen blend

Models: Sinead Dekker and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Charlotte at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young

Meet the Samara sewing pattern + online workshop!

2025-04-03T06:30:00.001+01:00

Introducing the Samara sewing pattern – perfect for beginners!

Ever wished you could sew your own clothes but didn’t know where to start? Finding a beginner-friendly pattern that’s actually easy can feel overwhelming – but don’t worry, we’ve got you!

The Samara top pattern is simple, stylish, and oh-so-satisfying to sew. Whether you're brand new to sewing or just looking for a speedy wardrobe refresh, this versatile top is designed with beginners in mind.

With its relaxed fit, V-neckline, and a choice of four sleeve options and two hemlines, Samara is a wardrobe staple that will take you through every season in handmade style.

But that's not all – we've also launched a brand new online workshop Learn to Sew an Easy Top to guide you through making Samara step by step! Whether you're sewing your first ever garment or brushing up your skills, this course is perfect for building confidence and creating clothes you’ll be proud to wear.

GET THE SAMARA SEWING PATTERN

Let's take a closer look at Samara...

Why you’ll love the Samara top sewing pattern

Designed especially for beginners, Samara is simple to sew with no tricky fastenings - just straightforward steps and beautiful results. Here’s what makes this pattern so special:

Four sleeve options – short, bracelet-length, elbow-length with elasticated cuffs, or full-length with elasticated cuffs
Two hemlines – a trendy cropped length or a classic hip-length
Beginner-friendly instructions – guiding you through every step
Available in 15 sizes (UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62)
Printed and PDF formats – choose what works best for you

Whether you're sewing in breezy cotton for summer or snuggly double gauze for cooler days, Samara is a versatile, timeless top you’ll want to make again and again.

GET THE SAMARA SEWING PATTERN

Learn to sew with our online workshop

Want to learn to sew your own clothes with confidence? Our brand new online workshop, Learn to Sew an Easy Top, is designed especially for beginner dressmakers or anyone looking to refresh their skills.

Join Tilly as she takes you through each step of making the Samara top – from understanding sewing patterns to finishing seams with a zigzag stitch. Along the way, you’ll learn how to:

Work with patterns and fabrics
Sew and finish seams neatly
Construct a garment from start to finish
Customise with optional hacks and details

With 12 video lessons, you can watch anytime, anywhere – perfect for sewing at your own pace! The Samara PDF pattern is included in the workshop, or you can upgrade to the option that includes the printed pattern too.

LEARN TO SEW AN EASY TOP

Here's what our workshop students have been saying:

"Tilly is fantastic at explaining the instructions in her videos and keeping them extremely clear and easy to follow. Highly recommend to try her online workshops if you haven’t already, she holds your hand all the way, giving me the confidence to have a go." - Judy

"This is the first significant garment I have ever made and I'm so impressed with the result – all down to such a good tutorial. Tilly made every step so straightforward – easy to understand and to copy her instructions... I strongly recommend anyone who wants to take up sewing but is nervous about starting, to take the plunge and get an online workshop." - Myra

"This course was brilliant! I am new to sewing and wanted in-depth easy to understand instructions and this is exactly what I got on the course... I have learnt so much, fallen in love with sewing and discovered my happy place." - Erica

Pattern formats & sizing

The Samara sewing pattern is available in two formats:

Printed pattern – Delivered to your door with a full colour instruction booklet
PDF pattern – Instant download to print at home or at a copyshop

Both include 15 sizes (UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62), and our award-winning beginner-friendly instructions with step-by-step photos will guide you every step of the way.

GET THE SAMARA SEWING PATTERN

What fabric should you use for the Samara top?

Samara is designed to be sewn in light- to medium-weight woven fabrics that drape nicely. Here are some great fabric choices:

Cotton lawn or poplin – Crisp, breathable, and beginner-friendly
Linen blends – Relaxed and effortlessly stylish
Double gauze – Soft and cosy
Viscose/rayon and blends – Drapey with a softer silhouette

You’ll also need:

Matching thread
Lightweight fusible interfacing to stabilise the neckline
Elasticated sleeve versions: 20mm (3/4in) wide elastic + 2 safety pins
Sewing machine and basic tools

Check out the full fabric requirements to plan your perfect project.

GET THE SAMARA SEWING PATTERN

Show us your Samara makes!

We LOVE seeing your handmade creations! Share your Samara tops with us on Instagram using the hashtag #SewingSamara and tagging @TillyButtons – we can’t wait to see what you make!

Happy sewing!

*****

Fabrics: White Swiss dot double gauze; Scallop cotton lawn; Pink + red cotton seersucker; Olive green washed linen blend

Models: Sinead Dekker and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Charlotte at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young

Full Bust Adjustment on a Dartless Bodice

2025-04-02T06:00:00.001+01:00

Are you struggling with clothes that are tight across the bust and have excess fabric pooling above? If so, a full bust adjustment (FBA) might be the solution to get the perfect fit when making your own clothes.

In this guide, we’ll show you how to do a full bust adjustment on a dartless bodice - no darts necessary! Whether you're working with patterns like our Samara top, Alexa jumpsuit, Stevie tunic, Bettine dress, Suki dress or Safiya wrap playsuit, these simple adjustments will ensure your handmade clothes fit perfectly.

We've previously covered how to do a bust adjustment for a darted bodice which is definitely worth checking out too.

If you’re new to fitting adjustments, don’t worry - it’s easier than it sounds! Just follow the steps below, and you’ll soon be creating clothes that fit like a dream.

When should you do a full bust adjustment?

Generally speaking, dartless garments are less fitted as they don't have darts which would ordinarily be used to add shaping. Because of this, you might be able to get away with not doing a full bust adjustment on these types of garments, even if you normally do them on other patterns, as there's a bit more leeway in the bust area than on a more fitted garment.

But if your boobs are on the larger side and you usually find that even easy-fitting garments are either too tight in the bust area, or fit across the bust but have a lot of excess fabric pooling above, then you probably need to make a full bust adjustment.

I'm going to briefly cover how you would work out how much to add or subtract from your bust in the adjustment, but do remember this is just a rough framework, and you might not need to do it at all.

How to measure for your full bust adjustment

To determine how much adjustment you need, follow these simple measurements:

Measure your high bust: This is the circumference of your upper chest, just under your armpits.

Measure your full bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest, usually around the nipple line.

Compare measurements with the pattern size: If your full bust is 5cm (2 inches) larger than the pattern size, you’ll add 5cm (2 inches) to the pattern. If it’s 7.5cm (3 inches) bigger, add 7.5cm (3 inches), and so on.

Since the front bodice pattern represents one half of the top, as the fabric is cut on the fold - or one boob - you'll be adding half of that difference to the front bodice pattern piece. So, if you want to do a 5cm (2in) full bust adjustment, you'll need to add 2.5cm (1in) to the pattern piece.

We draft our patterns with different proportions for smaller and larger sizes.

If your pattern includes UK 6-34, add 5cm (2in) for sizes 6-16 or 10cm (4in) for sizes 18-34.
If your pattern includes UK 6-24 only, add 5cm (2in).
If your pattern includes UK 16-34 only, add 10cm (4in).

For other designers' patterns, check their sizing. Choose the size with this bust measurement - this is the one you'll adjust.

Tools you'll need for your full bust adjustment

To do a bust adjustment you will need:

Ruler (or pattern master)
Glue stick or sticky tape
Pencil or fabric marker
Paper for pattern tracing
Scissors
Extra paper for the adjustment

As you'll be merrily snipping into your pattern piece with wild abandon for these adjustments, I thoroughly suggest tracing off the front bodice pattern piece so you can keep the original one intact in case you need to make any further adjustments. Make sure you trace all the notches, the dart and 'lengthen or shorten here' lines onto the new pattern piece.

Got your scissors and ruler at the ready? Ok, let's go!

How to do a full bust adjustment on a dartless bodice

Trace off and cut out the front bodice pattern in the size you've chosen. If you're making a dress you only trace off the top part, from the waist and above.

Standing in front of a mirror and hold the pattern up to your body so the shoulder seam is overlapping your shoulder by the pattern seam allowance (15mm or 5/8in on our patterns) and the centre front line is running down the centre of your torso.

Mark the position of your bust apex - the fullest part of your breast - in pen or pencil, on the pattern piece.

Draw a vertical line through the mark you just made, all the way down the pattern and parallel to the grainline or 'place on fold' arrow (line 1).

Now draw a second line from the apex to the side seam, around the underarm area (line 2).

Get a piece of paper a bit bigger than your pattern piece and lay the bodice pattern on top. At the top of the vertical line (line 1), snip 15mm (5/8in), or the seam allowance measurement for your particular pattern. Do the same at the bottom of the vertical line (line 1). Then, starting in the middle, cut up this vertical line, stopping a smidge before the snip you did at the top of the line to create a hinge. Then cut down the vertical line and stop just before the snip there to create another hinge. Next, cut in from the side seam along the green line (line 2) and stop just before the purple line that you've already cut (line 1).

Keeping the pieces joined at the shoulder seam and waist, pivot the side seam and sleeve pieces away from the centre front piece so you create a gap at the bust apex. This gap should be half the amount you want to add to the pattern in total - remember, the bodice piece represents half of the front bodice, so you only need to add half of the desired measurement to the pattern piece. Glue or tape the pieces on to the paper below.

Redraw the underarm curve, connecting it up with the side seam. Redraw the shoulder seam to straighten it out.

The bottom of the front bodice now needs to be lengthened slightly to accommodate the fuller bust. To do this, use a set square, a piece of card with a right angle or a pattern master ruler to draw a line from the bottom corner of the side seam, at right angles to the grainline or place on fold arrow. Draw a line from the bottom corner of the centre front to meet the rest of the pattern.

If your front bodice is going to join another pattern piece (i.e. you're making a dress or jumpsuit), measure the waist seam on the skirt in your size, add in any extra on the bodice waist seam so it's the same length. Finally, square off the bottom corner of the side seam so it's at a right angle to the waistline. If your front bodice has a matching facing piece, place this over the top of your new pattern piece and adjust it to match.

As you've added extra length at the side seam, you'll need to 'ease' the extra fabric into the back bodice when sewing them together. You could turn it into a dart instead, however easing will give a more subtle finish that's in keeping with the original garment design.

On your front bodice fabric piece(s), sew three rows of long ease or gather stitches (4-5mm long) close to the seam, from the underarm curve to about 10-15cm (4-6in) down - don't back tack, and leave long loose threads at both ends of the stitching. Pin the side seams together, leaving this part unpinned. Gently pull on the loose threads to gather the excess fabric until the front bodice side seam fits the back bodice side seam. Smooth out the gathers with your fingers and pin in place, then stitch. Unpick the ease stitching.

And that's it! I hope you've found this post helpful. As I said above, if you follow the steps I promise it's not tricky. Soon you'll be pleased as punch with your newly made outfit!

Liked this post? Check out How to Do Bust Adjustments for a Bust Darted Bodice and How to Combine Pattern Sizes.

********
Author: Nikki Hoar

How to make jersey yarn

2025-02-03T16:00:00.002+00:00

Making your own jersey yarn is so quick and easy! This is a great trick to know if you’re making a sewing pattern that features a drawstring – such as the waistband of the Cece joggers or sweat shorts, the hood of the Stella hoodie in my book Stretch, the Jaimie pyjama bottoms, Tabitha T shirt dress in my book Make It Simple... and more!

Read on for what you need to make your own jersey yarn and how to make it – with video tutorial.

Supplies to make jersey yarn:

A short length of jersey fabric OR the hem of an old T shirt
Rotary cutter or fabric scissors

Err... that’s it!

How to make your own jersey yarn

Cut a strip of jersey fabric parallel to the crosswise grain – that’s the direction with the most stretch. Cut it 3cm (1 1/4in) long by the width of the fabric. Don’t worry if you think it’s not wide enough – it will stretch.

Pull the strip through your hands to stretch it out. The long raw edges should curl under as you’re doing this.

And that’s it! You’ve made your own jersey yarn. You can now cut it to the length you want for your project, or stitch multiple pieces together if you want it to be longer.

P.S. If you liked this, you may also like Tips for sewing with sweatshirt fabrics and How to sew a jersey neckband.

*****
Sewing pattern: Cece joggers
Author: Tilly Walnes
Photos: Jane Looker

Fitting the Cece joggers + shorts

2025-01-30T07:00:00.622+00:00

Are you planning to make the Cece joggers or shorts and have some questions on fitting? Then look no further as this post is for you!

Cece is available in printed and PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34 / 84-155cm (33-61in) hip.

I'm happy to report that the Cece joggers and shorts are designed to have a relaxed fit, so you might find you only need to make a couple of adjustments, or perhaps none at all!

In this blog post, we'll cover:

Making a toile
Choosing your size
Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
How to combine pattern sizes
Other common trouser fitting adjustments

What's a toile and do I need to make one?

A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock up of your garment in fabric you don't mind using for testing purposes. Making a toile is a great opportunity to test the fit of a sewing pattern, or practise a technique on sacrificial fabric before you cut into the fabric you've chosen for your project. If you want to delve deeper into the subject, check out our post on everything you need to know about toiles.

However, making a toile definitely isn't a requirement for Cece - they're not designed to be close-fitting, the waistband is elasticated, and they're made with knit fabric, all of which means you shouldn't run into any complex fitting issues.

If you often have to make lots of adjustments to trouser patterns, you might want to consider your first version a "wearable toile" (AKA "wearable muslin"), in other words, a mock-up in a fabric that’s not so special that you’d be annoyed if the fit isn’t perfect first time, but nice enough that you can wear the joggers or shorts if they do fit you well enough (fingers crossed!).

How do I choose my sewing pattern size?

Cece includes all 15 sizes in our range. Pattern sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better fit. For this reason, you may notice the proportions change in the measurements chart and the shaping is slightly different on the pattern pieces – sizes 7-15 include slightly more room at the waist, a deeper crotch and a bit more space for a fuller booty.

To find your size, using a flexible tape measure, measure the circumference of your:

Waist - where you bend at the side
Hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is

Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.

However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes. We'll come to that later, but first...

How do I lengthen or shorten the pattern?

Our patterns are drafted for a height of 5ft 5in (165cm), so if you're a little (or a lot) taller or shorter than this, have a particularly long or short torso or legs, it's easy peasy to adjust the pattern pieces.

We have a blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, which shows you step-by-step how to make this adjustment.

If you do make an adjustment to the length of a pattern piece, remember to make the exact same adjustment to any pattern pieces that it will join. For example, if you shorten the rise on the front leg, make sure to make the same adjustment to the back leg and the side panel or upper side panel (depending on which version you're making), so the seams that join them stay the same length.

We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Cece pattern pieces:

1) Leg (crotch)

The Cece joggers and shorts are mid-rise, and designed to sit just below the natural waistline i.e. where you bend at the side.

If you are tall or short overall and usually find joggers or shorts come up a bit too high rise or low rise for you, you can lengthen or shorten the crotch using the set of lines marked "lengthen or shorten here" on the upper part of the front leg, back leg, and side panel (for solid side panel versions) or upper side panel (for colour block side panel joggers).

IMPORTANT! Are you adding pockets to your Ceces? Depending on which size you're making, altering the rise of the pattern can change the position of the bottom pocket marking, meaning it wouldn't line up with the marking on the pocket bag.

After lengthening/shortening the rise, to put the bottom pocket marking back in the correct place, lay the pocket bag pattern piece in your size over the front leg, aligning them at the front side panel and waist seams. Poke a pin through the bottom pocket marking on the pocket bag to mark its position on the front leg underneath - circle this pin mark with a pen or pencil and this will be your new bottom pocket marking. Repeat this with the pocket bag laid face down on the side panel (for solid side panel versions) or upper side panel (for colour block side panel joggers).

2) Leg length - joggers version

If you have particularly long or short legs, you can lengthen or shorten the pattern along the set of lines marked "lengthen or shorten here" on the lower part of the front leg, back leg, and side panel (for solid side panel versions) or lower side panel (for colour block side panel joggers).

The finished inside leg measurement for the Cece joggers is 75cm (29 1/2in) for sizes 1-6, and 76cm (29 7/8in) for sizes 7-15. Compare this to your own inside leg measurement before you decide whether to lengthen or shorten the legs. If you're not sure if you need to shorten them, leave them as they are and you can trim down before attaching the cuffs if you need to.

Lengthening or shortening the shorts

The finished inside leg seam measurement for the shorts is 9cm (3 1/2in) for sizes 1-6, and 11cm (4 3/8in) for sizes 7-15. If you think you want these a little longer, you can draw in a new hem line to your desired length.

Work out how much you want to extend the shorts by and measure down from the shorts hemline and mark this point. Draw a new line, roughly following the curve of the original shorts hemline, and squaring off the corners into right angles. Make sure to do this on the front leg, back leg, and side panel (for solid side panel versions) or lower side panel (for colour block side panel joggers).

How do I combine pattern sizes?

If your waist and hip measurements fall into different pattern sizes, you can re-draw the panel seams on the front leg and back leg and between your waist size at the top, to your hip size at the hip notch, as shown in the diagram above. Cut the side panel (for solid side panel versions), or upper side panel (for colour block side panel joggers) in your waist size, but snip the hip notches that match your hip size.

One thing to bear in mind: as Cece doesn't have a zip or button opening, you need to be able to pull the waistband over your hips, so if you're combining a smaller waist size with a larger hip size, check your hips will fit through the finished waist measurements listed in the instruction booklet. There's always a bit of wiggle room, especially since your fabric will have some stretch in it, but as a general guide, we wouldn’t recommend grading down to a waist size that is more than two sizes smaller than your hip size. This might mean that you cut a larger size at the waist than you would normally make, but you don't need to worry that the joggers or shorts will end up being too big on your waist, because the elasticated waistband will cinch them in to fit you.

If you're combining sizes and adding pockets to your Cece joggers or shorts, you'll need to re-draw the pocket markings on the front leg piece, so that they're still in the correct place in relation to the front side panel seam. To do this, draw a line horizontally from the existing pocket markings in your waist size, to the new front side panel seam. From the front side panel seam, measure 14mm (just under 5/8in) along each line, and draw a small circle at that point - these circles (shown in pink above) are your new pocket markings.

Now you need to alter the pocket bag to make sure it matches the front leg. Cut the pocket bag which matches your waist size. Lay the pocket bag over the front leg, aligning the waist seams, and matching the corner where the waist seam meets the front side panel seam. Slip some extra paper between the pocket bag and the front leg along the front side panel seam, and tape it to the pocket bag. Trace the front leg side panel seam, blending it into the pocket bag at the waist seam corner and outer edge. Trace the new hip notch and pocket markings from the front leg onto the pocket bag.

Your adjusted pocket bag should look something like this:

Cut the side panel (for solid side panel versions), or upper side panel (for colour block side panel joggers) in your waist size, and use the pocket markings that match your waist size, but snip the hip notches that match your hip size.

If you want more information on combining sizes, check out our blog post with step-by-step diagrams.

What about other common trouser fitting adjustments?

As we already mentioned, Cece is designed to have a relaxed fit, so you might not need to make as many adjustments as you would for a fitted trouser pattern.

However, if you've made a (wearable) toile and would like to do some fine-tuning to your Ceces, then we have a whole blog post which covers the most common fitting adjustments for trousers. Full tummy? Flat seat? Don't worry, we've got you covered. Go check it out!

And that's it! Remember, Cece's designed to be comfy so don't be tempted to overfit them :)

Please tag us on Instagram @TillyButtons with the hashtag #SewingCece. We can't wait to see your snuggly Ceces! Happy sewing!

*****

Fabrics: Minerva Core Range Melange Fleece Back Sweatshirt in shades "bright pink", "marine" and "dark damson"; Minerva Core Range Fleece Back Sweatshirt in "ivory"; Minerva Core Range Melange Ribbing in shades "bright pink" and "dark damson"

Models: Sinead Dekker and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Charlotte at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young

NEW PATTERN! Meet the Cece joggers + shorts

2025-01-29T07:00:00.273+00:00

Are you ready to step into your cosy era? Let us introduce the Cece joggers + shorts sewing pattern!

Cece (pronounced see-see) is cute, cosy, and super comfy – whether you’re working out, working from home, or chilling out! Be warned, once you've put your Ceces on, you'll never want to take them off.

Read on to find out all about Cece...

GET THE CECE PATTERN

THE PATTERN DESIGN

The Cece joggers and shorts have a relaxed fit, and a mid-rise elasticated waistband to provide maximum comfort. They feature a panel down the side, with an optional extra diagonal seam on the joggers version, which is perfect for colour blocking. The front seam of the side panel also cleverly conceals optional in-seam pockets!

Mid-rise joggers or sweat shorts
Side panel with optional in-seam pockets
Elasticated drawstring waistband finished with topstitching
Joggers version has ribbed cuffs and optional diagonal colour block detail on the side panel

Since releasing the Drew sweatshirt, we’d been getting lots of requests for a joggers pattern to match – and as luck would have it, we were already on it! Pair Cece with our coordinating Drew pattern for the ultimate me-made loungewear.

GET THE CECE PATTERN

SIZING AND FORMATS

The Cece pattern is available in either printed or PDF format in 15 sizes - UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / 84-155cm (33-61in) hip.

Sizes UK 6-16 and 18-34 are drafted and graded for a different set of proportions to get a better fit. Sizes 18-34 include slightly more room at the waist and hips, and a bit more space for a fuller booty.

Our award-winning sewing patterns feature clear instructions with step-by-step colour photos to guide you through the project. The pattern pieces themselves are clearly labelled so you can see which seam is which and how they go together.

Order the printed sewing pattern and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use again and again without it tearing or scrunching up.

Order the PDF and you'll get an email straight after purchase with a file to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. The Cece PDF pattern includes layered sizes too, so you can print just the sizes you want - yay!

FABRIC + SUPPPLIES

Cece is designed for sweatshirt fleece or French terry (loopback), with ribbing for the cuffs on the joggers version. You can make Cece all in the same colour, or have fun colour blocking the different pieces.

You'll also need:

Matching thread
40mm (1 1/2in) wide elastic to the length of your waist measurement
Small piece of iron-on interfacing
Drawstring cord, jersey yarn, or flat cotton tape to the length of your waist measurement + 75cm (30in) – or a small length of cotton jersey fabric to make your own drawstring
2 safety pins
Sewing machine with adjustable zigzag stitch and buttonhole foot
Basic sewing tools (incl ballpoint or stretch needle for your sewing machine)
Optional: Overlocker (AKA serger)

For the full fabric requirements, take a look at the Cece page on our online shop.

TIPS + TUTORIALS

We've labelled Cece as an “improver” level pattern, as the pockets involve quite a few steps to reduce the bulk of the seams. But if you’re a confident beginner (or just prefer a quick and easy sew), simply leave out the pockets!

You will be supported all the way with our clear instructions, and if there are any techniques you aren't sure about, you'll find lots of extra help on our Cece pattern support page.

You can sew the project from start to finish on a regular sewing machine with an adjustable zigzag stitch, or you can use an overlocker (serger) for some of the steps if you have one.

We can't wait to see what you make with the Cece pattern! And don't forget to share your progress shots and finished makes with us over on Insta by tagging us @TillyButtons and using the hashtag #SewingCece so we can find them. Happy sewing!

*****

Models: Sinead Dekker and Jessica Harriott-Kerr

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Charlotte at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young

Designing a colour block Drew sweatshirt (free colouring sheet!)

2024-11-12T12:30:00.067+00:00

Making a colour block Drew sweatshirt? We have a fun freebie for you – a colouring sheet download to help you plan your make!

Download the free colour block Drew colouring sheet

Print out the sheet (or two or three), grab some colouring pencils or pens, and have fun trying out some fun colour combos.

You may want to look into available fabrics first, before getting carried away with your design – whether you’re shopping for something new or raiding your stash for remnants (Drew is a great scrap-buster!). For the Drew sweatshirt sewing pattern, you’ll need sweatshirt fleece, French terry or loopback for the bodice and sleeves, and ribbing for the neckband, hem band and cuffs.

Get the Drew sweatshirt sewing pattern

The colour block sleeve version comprises four sleeve pieces – front upper sleeve, back upper sleeve, middle sleeve, and lower sleeve. You also have the front bodice, back bodice, and ribbed pieces to play around with.

For our model sample, we used four different colours. You could incorporate fewer or more colours than this – perhaps use one colour for most of the pieces, with a contrast middle sleeve band, or use a whole rainbow of colours including different colours on the left and right sleeves. It’s up to you!

The fabric requirements information on the pattern tells you how much fabric you’ll need for each piece if you’re making the colour block version – but bear in mind this is based on using a different colour for each pair of pieces. It is a guideline only and may not apply to your particular colour block design. So, if you want to ensure you only buy what you need, it’s best to plan out your make, then measure your pieces to work out how much you need of each colour.

Here are some ideas for your colour block Drews...

If you’re looking for more inspiration and guidance for creating colour block combinations, we love the following resources:

Palette Perfect by Lauren Wager
This beautiful book comprises hundreds of beautiful colour combinations for all different moods. A feast for the eyes, I absolutely love browsing this book!

Katie Kortman
Follow this fabulous fashion and textile designer for guidance on how to break out of your colour comfort zone and put together eye-catching palettes. She even has an e-book and course you can take!

Canva colour wheel tool
Includes a helpful introduction to colour theory, as well as an interactive tool for finding colours that work well together – whether complementary, monochromatic, analogous, triadic or tetradic – all explained!

Other ideas for finding exciting colour combinations:

Take a walk outside and take photos of nature’s beautiful palettes
Channel the colours of your favourite sports team or cause
Browse colour palettes on Pinterest

I hope this helps inspire you to have fun creating your colour block Drew sweatshirts. We can’t wait to see what you come up with – please do share your coloured-in sheets and finished makes with us on Instagram tagging @TillyButtons and #SewingDrew.

*****
Author: Tilly Walnes

How to do a full bust adjustment on a raglan seam bodice

2024-11-08T12:00:00.606+00:00

Wondering how to adjust a raglan sleeve sewing pattern for a larger bust? If you're used to making a full bust adjustment (AKA "FBA") on your sewing patterns, but don't know how to go about it on a garment that has raglan seams attaching the sleeves to the bodice, then this tutorial is for you.

First up, how do you know if you need to make a full bust adjustment?

This sewing pattern alteration is often required if you have a fuller bust. If you buy or sew clothes to fit the fullest part of your bust, you'll often find that there is excess fabric pooling at your shoulders and upper chest, because this part of you is smaller in comparison.

However, when it comes to deliberately oversized tops with deep raglan sleeves - such as the Drew sweatshirt sewing pattern, which I'll be demonstrating on here - these garments have a lot of intentional design ease around this area anyway. So in most cases you won't actually need to make a full bust adjustment - you can select your size based on your high bust measurement and simply make that size without any bust alterations.

But, if your full bust is 5 or more pattern sizes bigger than your high bust, then I would recommend making a full bust adjustment.

How much do I have to add to the bust?

I'm going to briefly cover how you would work out how much to add to the bust in the adjustment, but do remember this is just a rough framework rather than an exact science.

Measure your high bust (your upper chest, just under your armpits). If you're making sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) in our patterns, add 5cm (2in). If you're making sizes 7-15 (UK 18-34) in our patterns, add 10cm (4in). If you're making a pattern by another designer, you may need to add a different amount. Choose the pattern size with that full bust measurement – this is the size you’ll do your bust adjustment on.

Now measure your full bust (fullest part, around the nipples) and compare it to the bust measurement on the pattern size you just selected. If your full bust is 5cm (2in) bigger than the pattern, you’ll be adding 5cm (2in) to the pattern; if it’s 7.5cm (3in) bigger, you’ll be adding 7.5cm (3in) and so on. For a garment in stretch knit fabrics (such as Drew), reduce this amount by 10-25% depending on how much stretch is in your fabric.

What you'll need:

Your front bodice pattern piece (trace this off so you're not chopping up your original pattern)
A pen or pencil
A ruler (or pattern master tool if you have one)
Scissors
Tape or a glue stick
A piece of paper slightly bigger than your pattern piece

Now you've got those ready, let's get into it!

How to make a full bust adjustment on a sewing pattern with raglan sleeves

Stand in front of a mirror and hold the front bodice pattern up to your body so the centre front line is running down the centre of your torso, and the neckline is sitting roughly where the finished neckline will be, remembering to account for the seam allowance - bear in mind that if your pattern has a neckband, like the Drew sweatshirt, you'll need to factor this in when positioning the neckline on yourself.

Mark the position of your bust apex - the fullest part of your breast - in pen or pencil, on the pattern piece. Now, lay the pattern out flat, and mark the seam allowance roughy two thirds of the way along the front raglan seam.

Draw a vertical line, parallel to the grainline or "place on fold" arrow, all the way down the pattern through your bust apex mark. We'll call this "line 1".

Next, draw a horizontal line all the way across the pattern through your bust apex mark - this line needs to be perpendicular (i.e. at a right angle) to the grainline - we'll call this 'line 2'.

And finally, draw a diagonal line from the bust apex to the marked seam allowance along the front raglan seam - we'll call this 'line 3'.

Now it's time to grab those scissors! Starting at the centre front, cut along line 2, and then pivot at the bust apex to cut along line 1 all the way down to the hem.

Next, starting at the bust apex cut along line 3, and stop just before the seam allowance you marked earlier.

From the other side of the seam allowance, cut from the edge of the front raglan seam and stop just before the seam allowance to create a hinge.

Cut along the remainder of line 2, starting at the side seam and leaving a small hinge at the bust apex.

You should now have two hinges - one at the bust apex and one at the front raglan seam. They're delicate so be gentle with them!

Next, get a piece of paper slightly bigger than your front bodice pattern piece and draw two horizontal parallel lines on it, with the distance between them equal to the amount you want to add to the pattern - for a knit garment, reduce this amount by 10-25% to account for the stretch of the fabric.

Carefully place the pattern pieces on top of the paper. With tape or glue, stick the upper part of the front bodice to the piece of paper, aligning cut line 2 with the upper line drawn on the paper below. Draw vertical lines to extend the centre front and grainline or "place on fold" arrow.

Take the centre front piece which isn't attached to the rest of the pattern with a hinge, and stick it to the paper, aligning cut line 2 with the lower line drawn on the paper, and the centre front edge with the centre front line extending from the upper part of the bodice.

Now using the hinge you created along the front raglan seam, gently hinge the other side of the pattern downwards until the bust apex is sitting on the lower line drawn on the paper below, and stick in place.

Lastly, using the hinge you created at the bust apex, hinge the side seam part of the pattern downwards so that cut line 2 sits flush with the lower line drawn on the paper below, and stick in place.

We're almost there! Now we just need to tidy up the pattern piece :)

Mark a point at the side seam that is the same width in from the side seam as the amount you added widthways at the bust (illustrated by the pink arrows above), and the same distance up from the hem as the amount you added lengthways along the side seam (illustrated by the pink arrows above). Redraw the side seam and the hem tapering into this point.

This will remove the extra volume added at the waist that you don’t need, but keep the volume you want to add in at the bust, whilst also making sure that the side seam remains the same length overall so that it still matches the back bodice.

Finally, smooth out the front raglan seam if this has been distorted, and remember to transfer any labels, notches etc. onto your newly drawn seams.

All that's left to do is cut away any excess paper to leave you with your newly adjusted front bodice piece, which should look something like this:

And you've done it! I hope you've found this post helpful and now feel ready to go forth and do a full bust adjustment on your favourite raglan seam sewing pattern.

*****

Author: Frances Wakefield

Model: Sinead Dekker

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Laura Anne at The Bridal Stylists

Sample sewn by Susan Young

Fitting the Drew sweatshirt sewing pattern

2024-11-08T12:00:00.600+00:00

Making the Drew sweatshirt sewing pattern and looking for some advice on fitting? Then this post is for you!

Drew is available in printed and PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.

The good news is, with its deep raglan sleeves and plenty of ease, Drew is designed to be oversized and easy-fitting, so you might find you only need to make a couple of adjustments, or perhaps none at all!

If you only take one thing from this post, remember that you're always going to see some folds and drag lines with this style of sweatshirt - it's all part of the slouchy style, so don't be tempted to overfit it!

In this post, we're going to cover:

Making a toile
Choosing your size
Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
Combining pattern sizes
Making adjustments for a larger bust
Adjusting the raglan seams for narrow or wide shoulders
Raising or lowering the neckline
Adapting the cuff for differing wrist sizes

What's a toile and do I need to make one?

However, making a toile definitely isn't a requirement for Drew, since it's designed to be oversized and is made with knit fabric. While fitting a woven garment to your unique body shape can sometimes take a bit of work, knit fabrics will naturally stretch over the curvier parts of your body. Hooray!

We would suggest you consider your first version a "wearable toile" (AKA "wearable muslin"), in other words, a mock-up in a fabric that’s not so special that you’d be annoyed if the fit isn’t perfect first time, but nice enough that you can wear the sweatshirt if it does fit you well enough (fingers crossed!).

How do I choose my sewing pattern size?

Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:

high bust - take this measurement around your upper chest, just under your armpits
full bust - take the measurement at the fullest point i.e. around your nipples
waist - where you bend at the side
hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is

Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.

Circle your measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If a measurement falls between two sizes (for example, if your full bust is 37in rather than 36in or 38in), it’s usually better to choose the larger size as you can take it in more easily than you can let it out. However, for the Drew sweatshirt pattern, it doesn’t matter too much whether you size up or down as it’s not close-fitting.

How do I lengthen or shorten the pattern?

Our patterns are drafted for a height of 5ft 5in (165cm), so if you're a little (or a lot) taller or shorter than this, have a particularly long or short torso or arms, or you want to change the length of the sweatshirt to suit your own personal style it's easy peasy to adjust the pattern pieces.

We have a blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, which shows you step-by-step how to make this adjustment.

We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Drew pattern pieces:

1) Bodice

If you often find that tops are a bit too long or short for you in the body, you can lengthen or shorten the front and back bodice pattern pieces using the lengthen or shorten lines. We've included the back length measurements for both versions of Drew in the finished garment measurements section of the booklet, so you can check if this length is right for you, before cutting into your fabric.

The lengthen or shorten lines on the Drew bodices are between the side seam notch and the cropped hemline. You can adjust your pattern here if you feel like you need a bit more length, or conversely a bit less, in the torso.

If you're lengthening or shortening the bodice, remember to adjust both the front and back bodice pattern pieces by the same amount, so that the side seams match up.

2) Sleeves (both versions)

Whether you're keeping it classic with the solid sleeves or adding some extra fun with the colour block sleeves, the process for altering the length is exactly the same. Both sleeves are designed to sit just past the wrist, between the bottom of the hand and base of the thumb, so if you have particularly long or short arms you can adjust the sleeve accordingly.

How do I combine pattern sizes?

If your full bust, waist and hip measurements fall into different pattern sizes, you can to re-draw the side seams on the front bodice and back bodice between your full bust size at the top, to either your waist size at the cropped hemline or your hip size at the hip-length hemline. Check out our blog post which explains in detail how to combine sizes.

If you’re making the hip-length version, to keep the side seams nice and smooth, don't worry about grading to your waist size, as that part is loose-fitting anyway. You can just grade from your full bust size at the top, to your hip size at the hip-length hemline.

Whichever version you’re making, remember to make the same alteration to both the front bodice and back bodice pieces, and pick the hem band for the the size you've graded to at the hemline.

How do adjust Drew for a larger bust?

Sizes 1-6 in our patterns (or UK 6-16) are drafted for a 5cm (2in) difference between the high bust and full bust, while sizes 7-15 (or UK 18-34) are drafted for a 10cm (4in) difference between the high bust and full bust.

With Drew, as there’s so much ease in the pattern, in most cases you won’t need to do a bust adjustment when picking a size based on your high bust measurement, unless your full bust is 5 or more pattern sizes bigger than your high bust - in which case, check out our blog post on how to make a full bust adjustment on a raglan seam bodice.

How do I adjust the raglan seams for narrow or wide shoulders?

Drew is a raglan style sweatshirt - this means that the sleeve continues in one piece directly to the neckline, rather than joining a separate shoulder seam. This design creates diagonal raglan seams from the neckline to the underarm, which result in an undefined shape around the shoulder, armhole and upper chest, allowing for a lot of ease of movement.

If you usually make adjustments for wide or narrow shoulders, you could try making a larger or smaller size in the upper part of the bodice, and grading to your waist or hip measurement at the side seams.

Alternatively, you can fit the raglan seams as you go. Before sewing the raglan and side seams up for real, you can tack (baste) them together with a long, straight stitch on a regular sewing machine, and take the raglan seams in or out to your preference. Then remember to transfer any adjustments you made back to the pattern for next time.

How do I raise or lower the neckline on a raglan sweatshirt?

The neckline on the Drew sweatshirt is designed to be high enough to cover the neckline of a t-shirt should you want to wear one underneath, but not so high that it feels restrictive.

However, if, like me, you're specific about how you like a neckline to fit, you can easily raise or lower the neckline on the Drew pattern using the following method:

First, mark and fold back the seam allowances on the following pieces:

Front bodice (A): front raglan seam
Back bodice (B): back raglan seam
If you're making the solid colour version - Sleeve (G): front raglan seam + back raglan seam
If you're making the colour block sleeve version - Front upper sleeve (H): front raglan seam + forward shoulder seam AND Back upper sleeve (I): back raglan seam + forward shoulder seam

Lay the pieces out with the necklines end to end, and starting at the centre front, measure down from the neckline by the amount you want to lower it by at that point - or to raise it, stick paper underneath the neckline and measure up.

Repeat all the way around the neckline on the front bodice, sleeve, and back bodice marking a small dot or dash every 1-2cm (3/8-3/4in) or so.

Sketch in the the new neckline curve connecting the dots or dashes. Check the new neckline curve flows smoothly across the pieces, and that it meets the centre front and centre back at a right angle. Transfer the notches around the neckline to the new neckline curve.

You’ll also need to change the length of the neckband. With the raglan (+ forward shoulder if you're making the colour block version) seam allowances still folded out of the way, draw in the neckline stitching line 15mm or 5/8in inside your new neckline curve, on the front bodice, back bodice, and sleeve for solid colour version or front upper and back upper sleeves for the colour block version. With a tape measure standing on its side, measure these stitching lines, and add them together. Now take 15% off this measurement, and add 15mm (5/8in) for the seam allowance, and that’s the length your new neckband pattern piece should be (to be cut on the fold like on the original pattern).

How do I adjust the cuffs on a sweatshirt?

The fit of the cuffs on Drew will vary slightly depending on the thickness and stretchiness of your ribbing, so it's best to tack (baste) the cuffs onto the sleeve to check the fit and let them out or take them in at the underarm seam as needed. You can make a note of the change you made, but remember different ribbings have different stretch so you might not need to make exactly the same adjustment next time.

I hope this post has helped you decide which (if any!) fitting adjustments you need to make to your Drew sweatshirt. Lean into the slouchy vibes of this design, and don't get carried away with too many alterations!

We love seeing your me-mades, so please don't forget to tag us @TillyButtons using the hashtag #SewingDrew in your progress shots and finished makes!

*****

Models: Sinead Dekker and Lynne Mcleod

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Laura Anne at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young