Did you know that Calais lace actually has its origins in the Nottingham? And that they’re related to each other? It's a story that involves stockings, a vicar, Luddites, smugglers and lace...

In 1812, John Leavers invented a machine to make lace, based on the Stocking Frame ( a machine invented in 1589 by a Nottingham vicar, Rev. William Lee to help his wife knit, well yes, stockings!)

This new machine-made Leavers lace threatened the livelihoods of the traditional lace workers, artisans who were highly trained and took great pride in their work. In the discontent that followed new factories were attacked and the machines vandalised by the Luddites, named after an elusive figure Ned Ludd.

And then there’s the legal blows! To protect vulnerable trade secrets the British government also banned the export of these machines. And it was an offence for a textile worker to leave Britain for to carry out his trade, adding to the misery at home.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

In 1816, some Nottingham lace workers escaped the bitterness to manufacturing in England, and smuggled in the first lace making machines to France, dismantled and mixed with old iron! Skilled operators were smuggled across the Channel too, in a ship called The Smuggler! They settled in Calais, a port in need of a new economy after the Napoleonic Wars, and that’s where the hub of the French Lace making industry continues to this day.

Stockings, a reverend invention, artisans, Luddites, smugglers and lace, quite a tale for today! Did I mention Free Trade? Oh heck, perhaps another day!

PS. Don’t miss a trick, you can sign up below.

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There’s something truly special about gathering kindred spirits around a table with fabric and threads. Last week, I hosted an Embellished Headband Workshop at the lovely Bibelot in Leek. And the room quickly filled with the quiet joy that always comes from creating something handmade.

The workroom buzzed with laughter, shared stories between new friends, and the gentle hum of creativity as everyone settled into the rhythm of sewing.

And before long the table was scattered with beautiful silks, saucers of pins and spools of thread, paper patterns, cups of tea and coffee, and (essential, of course) plenty of biscuits! It was the best kind of creative muddle!

With every careful stitch and each inspiring idea, the day unfolded into something magical.

Thank you for filling the workshop with the joy of sewing. Each of you took a simple piece of fabric and transformed it into something unique and beautiful, it was a joy to witness your ideas come to life.

Here are a few photos from the day, your stitches tell their own story.

Here’s to many more moments like this; slow, satisfying, and stitched with joy! I’d love to do it all again!

PS. If you missed this workshop and it’s your cup of tea I have a Silk Flower Fascinator workshop at Bibelot on Saturday 28th June. You can find out more here.

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There’s something wonderful about turning a simple piece of fabric into a beautifully made garment—and that’s exactly what we focused on in a recent Camisole Sewing Workshop.

Held in Bibelot’s light-filled workroom, the day brought together a lovely group of dressmakers, each ready to learn new skills and create a beautiful camisole that fits.

We began by taking measurements and selecting the correct-sized pattern. We graded between sizes too, to ensure a perfect fit. 

Throughout the workshop, each camisole began to take shape with fine hairline darts and seams, a stabilised neckline with tape, and shoestring straps carefully turned and stitched in place.

There’s something very grounding about sewing together—heads down, hands working, the occasional pause for tea and a chat. With a focus on precision sewing, everyone created a beautifully made garment. 

By the end of the day, everyone left with a finished camisole and a deeper understanding of how simple techniques, when done well, can create something truly special.

Thank you to everyone who joined me. 

It was a very rewarding day! 

Carry on sewing!

PS. If you missed this workshop, I have a Silk Flower Fascinator workshop at Bibelot on Saturday 28th June. You can find out more here.

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Sewing can feel overwhelming, and the very mention of couture craftsmanship might make you believe it’s beyond your reach. A big dressmaking project can feel daunting—so many materials, techniques, and decisions. Where on earth do you start?

That question got me thinking—what if you could begin by effortlessly creating elegant accessories, experiencing the joy of mindful creativity, and feeling the confidence of wearing something you made?

Cue months of creativity, a notebook full of thoughts and doodles, and a studio covered in fabric scraps!

And so I’m excited to reveal… my sewing kits!

Thoughtfully designed as small, pick-up-and-put-down projects, they bring you pure creative flow—without the overwhelm.

With carefully selected materials and easy-to-follow illustrated instructions, you’ll have everything you need to craft beautiful accessories with confidence.

Create a timeless accessory to wear anywhere: at an event, on a casual day out, or as a touch of everyday luxury during your morning routine! I love a pretty headband for those fringe back, make-up moments!

And if you already have the perfect fabric? My patterns give you the ideal foundation to bring your vision to life. Unleash your creativity - I can't wait to see what you create!

You'll find the patterns and kits at Bibelot in Leek, and in my online shop now.

Happy shopping!!

With all the sewing accessories out there, figuring out what belongs in your dressmaking toolkit can feel like a daunting task! It’s always tempting to think that buying the next new shiny dressmaking accessory will make a difference and be the vital key to mastering couture sewing.

But where do you begin? Fear not! Allow me to offer you a glimpse into my cherished vintage red vanity case— the keeper of all the essential things in my dressmaking world. These are the precise tools that breathe life into my couture dresses!

Whilst there’s lots to choose from, these are the items I find myself reaching for every single day. These are not simply my favourites; they are game-changers, the fine sewing tools that make a difference.

So join me as we discover my must-have equipment for couture dressmaking. 

Cutting & Trimming

8” Sewing Scissors

Although I have several pairs of tailors shears I prefer these as I find them much more versatile. 

Unpicker/ seam ripper

Even the most skilled dressmakers make mistakes, which is why a seam ripper is a must-have tool for every sewist. Choose one with a fine, sharp blade for effortlessly removing stitches without damaging the fabric.

Sharp pointed embroidery scissors

For clipping seams, trimming edges, grading seam allowances and cutting out lace motifs.

Thread snips

Small and handy these are good for quick and precise trimming of threads without damaging surrounding stitches or fabric. Can be used for unpicking seams too. 

Pins & Needles

Glass-headed pins

Extra long and extra fine glass-headed pins stay in place and are less likely to damage delicate fabrics. As glass is heat resistant the heads don’t melt if they accidentally come into contact with the iron. They are brightly coloured and easy to see, so you don’t lose them in the garment and forget to remove them! And they are easy to spot and pick up if you drop them.

Steel dressmaking pins

Again extra long and extra fine - I use these for marking dart positions as I pull the pin through the pattern paper ( and you can’t do this with a pin that has a glass head). 

Safety pins

Useful for fitting, securing ends of elastics before you stitch, and turning straps through to the right side. Also useful for securing appliqués as the safety pins won’t fall out.  

Wrist pincushion

A handy way to store pins and keep them within reach when you are dressmaking. I find mine very useful when I am draping on a stand or fitting a garment. Mine has an elastic strap so fits my wrist and is comfortable to wear. I still use it as a pincushion even when I’m not wearing it.

Sewing machine needles

I nearly always use a sharp universal machine needle - a size 70 for delicate fabrics and a size 80 for medium-weight fabrics. I keep a pack of machine needles close to my machine and put the old ones in a glass jar. 

Needles for hand stitching

• Milliner’s straw needles are great for basting and slip stitching. Their length means that for basting you can easily make large stitches and sew fast, and they are easy to hold and make precise stitches for slip stitching and hemming by hand. I do nearly all my hand stitching with a size  5 milliner’s straw needle. 

Other hand-stitching needles that come in handy are: 

• A beading needle.

• A chenille needle for sewing with embroidery thread, or multiple strands of thread at once.

• A bodkin for turning loops, although if I have my lop tuner to hand I’ll usually use this instead. 

Measuring

Tape measure

A 150 cm flexible tape measure made from soft fibreglass with inches on one side and centimetres on the other.

Washi tape 

A roll of masking tape or Washi tape is great for adding a temporary stitching guide to my sewing machine. Also useful for taping pattern pieces together.

The following are kept by my sewing table:

A Metre Ruler

A one-metre aluminium ruler bought from a hardware store, is useful for altering patterns, and for measuring hems during fittings.

Pattern Master

Perfect for drafting and altering sewing patterns, but it also has guides for every half centimetre up to 6 cm which is useful for marking hems, button placements and checking seam allowances. 

Marking

Bohin Mechanical Chalk Pencil

When I need to mark pattern lines, darts, pleats etc. on fabric the Bohin mechanical chalk pencil is simply the best. It makes fine lines that are much more precise than using a traditional tailor’s chalk. I’ve found that they rub out easily using the rubber at the end of the pencil, although I’ll always check on a scrap of the fabric first.  You can also buy replacement leads too. 

Frixion Pen

Again they create a fine line that can easily be removed by the heat of an iron, which isn’t a lot of use if you are ironing the garment a lot as you work. However, I get around this by marking the fabric just before I need to see the marks to sew.  Bear in mind though that cold temperatures can sometimes bring the marks back.  So I usually only use my beloved pink Frixion pen to make a garment on the reverse or where they will be hidden in the seam allowance.

Pressing

A well-pressed garment is the hallmark of couture craftsmanship. I press at least as much as I sew, if not more. 

Rolling pin

A rolling pin covered in wadding and cotton is brilliant for pressing open seams as its curved design, ensures that pesky seam lines don't leave unwanted imprints on the opposite side. 

It's also extremely practical when it comes to achieving perfectly pressed seams in hard-to-reach areas like sleeves or trouser legs. 

A silk organza press cloth

Silk organza makes a great press cloth. This fabric is sheer so you can see through it to exactly the area you are working on, so there are no nasty surprises! The silk organza is a tough fabric that will withstand a lot of heat. I don’t finish the edges as they might leave an imprint on the fabric. In an ideal world, I would trim the edges with pinking shears. 

Other Tools That Make A Difference

Then there are a few extra things that make my life much easier and will accompany me along with my Treadle 66 when I find myself off-grid and on a desert island!:

Bias binding maker

This practical accessory speeds up pressing neat bias tapes for bindings. 

Blunt ended pliers

I use these for crushing beads within seam allowances so that my machine needle doesn’t break. 

A pair of long-armed tweezers

For removing loose threads, and for threading my overlocker. 

A roll of Ban Rol tape

Originally sold as sew-in interfacing for waistbands, Ban Rol tape is a wonderful tool for creating exquisite narrow hems by machine. It’s relatively inexpensive and reusable - I have three metres prepared to different widths. (A tutorial on hemming using Ban Rol tape is coming soon).

A glasses screwdriver 

Is great for adjusting the tiny screw on a bobbin case, and short enough to remove the needle plate on my machine. 

A loop turner

This makes it much easier to turn through long lengths of rouleau for spaghetti straps. 

A mini photography light

I love a small win -  and this is one of mine! I had a couple of portable LED photography lights in my camera bag and found that I hardly used them, preferring to set up a light with an umbrella shade on a stand instead.

The beauty is that you can place the light exactly where you need it, and even on the bed of the machine. It’s a game changer on those dark winter evenings when you are trying to sew and your machine light isn’t quite bright enough. 

I have this light which is lovely and bright, I also have a mini cube light which is magnetic too, perfect for securing onto my machine! 

A pretty saucer to put my pins in.

I love pretty china. I’m a Staffordshire girl and a fully subscribed member of the Turnover Club! If you know, you know! 

A Small Hammer

Not used for self-defence! Ideal for crushing glass beads that lie within the seam allowance on sparkly fabrics. 

A bottle of Fray Check

This colourless liquid prevents the fabric from fraying and is great for reinforcing the cut edges of buttonholes, or corners of chiffon hems.

So gather together your favoured sewing tools, your needles and pins, thread your machine and begin to create beautiful clothes, one stitch at a time!

PS.  I have concentrated on the contents of my sewing case.I have so much to share about sewing machines and pressing equipment that I could fill pages! I'll delve into these topics in more detail in future blog posts.

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Sewing Inspired Christmas Gift Ideas for Dressmakers and Needleworkers

Just what do you buy a dressmaker or a needleworker for Christmas? Well, I’ve been thinking about what I would like for Christmas! So I’ve made Mr ToGather a list! And then I thought I’d share it as a little inspiration. I might just email it to him in case he misses this blog!

All of the following have caught my eye throughout the year, and several come from small suppliers and creatives in the UK. At the time of writing, these all offer delivery (if you’re quick!) before Christmas.

So pour yourself your favourite tipple, whether that’s a seasonal mulled wine or a warming hot cup of tea, and enjoy browsing a few things on my wish list this year.

A Dressmakers Christmas Wish List

🎄And because Christmas means chocolate!✨🍫

Hopefully if you have someone who is wondering “just what do you buy for the dressmaker in your life?” this list will help point them in the right direction. But most of all, whatever you wish for this Christmas may it be full of joy and happy memories.

PS. If you would like to receive a regular dose of prettiness from me please sign up to my newsletter below.

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Four friends gathered and delved into the art of crafting stunning, timeless accessories with vintage bits and bobs.

I love how the table starts tidy, and then creativity takes over! It wasn’t long before the table was overflowing with jars of buttons, shimmering glass crystals, a variety of beads, and boxes of vintage brooches. There were glasses filled with prosecco, mugs of tea and a delicious red velvet cake!

We made Christmas presents for mums, and hummed along to a carol or two…

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For a delightful few hours, we crafted brooches adorned with an array of charming vintage trinkets. I loved how everyone made something truly unique. It truly was the most wonderful evening!

I’d love to do it all again!

If you would like to collect a group of friends and organise a private craft party, let me know!

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During a recent trip to Paris, I had the unexpected pleasure of exploring one of the city’s hidden gems, the Musée de Montmartre. Tucked away behind the bustling streets near Sacré Cœur, this enchanting museum offers a quiet escape into the history of Montmartre’s bohemian past.

As I entered her apartment, which has been lovingly preserved to give visitors a sense of her life and creativity, I could almost feel the presence of the remarkable woman who once inhabited these rooms. The décor is simple yet elegant, with vintage furniture, personal belongings, and period details that evoke the artistic spirit of the early 20th century. It’s easy to imagine Suzanne sitting in the chair, drawing inspiration for her next work.

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I made my way to her artist studio, a light-filled room that instantly stirred my own creativity. Large north-facing windows bathe the space in a beautiful natural light, perfect for a painter.

The studio feels alive with history— an easel, paints, and brushes are thoughtfully arranged as if Valadon herself had just stepped out for a moment.  There’s a dark red velvet sofa, books on a chest of drawers, a vase of flowers and chalky pink ladders propped up against the wall.

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It was in this very studio that she produced some of her most important works, often challenging traditional norms with her bold use of colour and form. The space speaks to her rebellious spirit and the strong influence she had on the art world, not only as a model for renowned artists like Toulouse-Lautrec and Renoir, but also as a pioneering artist in her own right and the first woman to be admitted to Paris’s Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts.

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Stepping into an artist's world like this has a way of reviving your artistic spirit. There’s something transformative about walking through a space filled with history, surrounded by remnants of artistic genius. It’s as if the energy and passion of past creators seep into your bones, reminding you of the beauty in expressing yourself.

I didn’t want to leave. 

Visiting museums isn’t just about learning; it’s about reconnecting with that spark of inspiration we all carry, waiting to be reignited. After leaving Musée de Montmartre, I felt a skip in my step and a renewed sense of creativity. 

Tell me, where are your favourite places to go when you need to nourish your creative soul?

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Do you want to improve your sewing skills and master some tricks of the trade that will elevate your dressmaking from the ordinary to the extraordinary?

Are you longing to create a wardrobe of handmade designer clothes that make you look and feel amazing?!

Once upon a time, I was fed up with half-finished dressmaking projects ending up in plastic bags of doom in the bottom of my sewing cupboard. In despair, even the Jean Muir crepe dress I had always dreamed of became an abandoned sewing project.

But there is a way! And with so many garment making techniques to learn, where do you begin?

There is a solution!

The Sample Box workshop teaches you the essential tips and techniques to help you sew a wardrobe of beautiful clothes too.

You’ll spend a magical day in the studio surrounded by rolls of fabrics, toiles draped on mannequins, inspirational moodboards and jars of beads and trimmings. . At the end of the day, you’ll have a box of samples of the dressmaking techniques you’ve mastered to keep, and a workbook to remind you.

Be quick! … There are only a couple of places left, you can book via the link below.

A friend and I went to see the Chanel exhibition at the V&A. Any visit to my favourite place on the planet is always a joy, but Tuesday’s expedition was truly magical. 

With breathtakingly beautiful clothes, some over a hundred years old, yet so modern that they are still fashionable today. Garments that were exquisitely made, crafted with outstanding craftsmanship and divine dressmaking, with the tiniest of details that you know I love! 

This was paradise! Gasps of pure joy and muttered “wows” were all we could hear as we travelled from glass cabinet to glass cabinet and room to room. We were lost in Couture. And lost in time.

I knew I really wanted to see Chanel’s earliest years, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Exquisitely made, with details so subtle that they enticed and completely enthralled me. 

A blouse with a sailor collar in the finest silk jersey with a  satin tie and a collapsible hat in a silk braid.

A deliciously simple layered chiffon gown, with perfectly stitched picot hems, seed pearl beading and roses cut from the top layer of chiffon and reapplied. 

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A coat in wool canvas with a diaphanous silk chiffon dress, with appliqué along the edge of the coat, a chiffon bow edged in picot stitching, and the coat is lined in the same chiffon. 

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Teeny, tiny pin tucks, immaculate bound buttonholes in silk crepe for shirt buttons, and perfectly stitched diamond seams. Wow!

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 Subtle applique on diaphanous silk chiffon dresses.

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“Chanel Red” in velvet, and an extremely modern red leather jacket. 

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And we had just made it to a room full of graceful Little Black Dresses crafted from chiffon and French lace, with delicate beaded trims when…

We came crashing down to earth! “Ladies and gentlemen the exhibition will be closing in half an hour“. Oh no! We had completely lost track of time. 

Excuse me, how far through the exhibition are we… “About halfway madam” came the cockney reply!

We knew we were most interested in Chanel’s earliest work, but had underestimated just how enchanting it would be. Two and a half hours had flown by!

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We continued… past the story of Chanel No5 and into a room full of dazzling evening dresses with Chanel’s trademark attention to detail. We travelled at speed through avenue of gilded gold lame suits and then a gallery of Chanel Suits before a staircase of sophisticated evening gowns.

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And then before we knew it we were out in the cold evening air and the hustle and bustle of Knightsbridge at dusk, with shop windows full of clothes influenced by the 100-year-old clothes we had just seen.

We were dazed and a trifle disorientated by our journey in time. Did Chanel design a Manifesto for fashion that is as relevant today as it was a century ago? Absolutely! 

If you can go, GO! We’ll be back! We’ve still got suits to see!

Note  - Tickets are now sold out, but you can still go if you are a member of the V&A. We went in the afternoon, the V&A website suggested that the exhibition would be less busy then, and it was. The exhibition is extensive so it’s a good idea to decide before you go which area of the exhibition you’d like to spend most time on. 

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It is a truth universally acknowledged that sheer or lightweight fabrics need neat and delicate seams!

But have you ever wondered if there was an easier way to create narrow seams? This guide will walk you through a few simple steps that can transform your sewing and help you create the most beautiful garments with a couture finish.

Before You Begin

You can't sew narrow seams and get frustrated with them- it will show! Couture dressmaking is mindful sewing at its finest, and the best garments are sewn calmly and with a lot of love!

So take a deep breath and let go of all that tension, play some soothing music, light a candle. Do whatever you need to do to find a state of flow.

Use a new sharp needle and good-quality thread

Choose a fine needle suitable for fine or lightweight fabrics, such as a size 70/10 or 80/12.

Select a thread that’s fine and strong, in a matching colour to your fabric, an all-purpose polyester thread will do the trick. 

Pin the seams

Pin the fabric securely at right angles to the direction that you are sewing in, matching notches and the edges of the fabric. Remember to move the pins as you stitch so that they don’t get tangled up in your machine. 

Adjust stitch length and width 

Reduce the stitch length to ensure that the stitching is strong, about 2.0 mm should create smaller more secure stitches. Stitch a sample on a scrap piece of fabric first, and adjust the stitch length and tension until you are happy. 

Find a seam guide

Check which marking on your machine would be the best one for the width of the seam that you are stitching. For more usual seam allowances the standard seam guide marks on the bed of your machine (e.g. 1.5 cm etc) will help you.

However, for smaller seam allowances you’ll need to find something to guide you, otherwise you’ll feel as if you are flying blind! I often find that the lines and marks on your sewing foot will help, and then I’ll adjust the needle position left and right if I need to.

Here I’m adding a second row of stitching. I’m using where the foot attaches to the shank ( red arrow), to guide me along my first line of stitching (dotted line).

Sew slowly and steadily

You need a light touch - you're not sewing fast as if you're motor racing and pressing the foot to the floor here!

At the start of a seam, lower the presser foot to secure the fabric, then insert the needle. If you can, set the machine so that it will stop with the needle down when you take your foot off the pedal. Hold the threads as you begin sewing to stop the fabric from disappearing down into the needle plate. 

Breathe, and sew slowly and steadily. Stitch a maximum of 15-20 cm (6-8 inches), then stop with the needle in the fabric, pause and stitch again. Repeat until the entire seam is stitched.

Support your fabric and don’t let it hang from the table while you sew. I usually move my machine as far to the right of the table as I can, so that I have lots of table space beside my machine to rest my garment on.

Press each of your garment seams as you go.

A French Seam

A French seam is a type of seam finish that encloses the raw edges of fabric for a clean and polished look on the inside of a garment. It is commonly used in lightweight and sheer fabrics.

Here's where you might use a French seam:

• In fine fabrics such as chiffon, organza and silk, French seams prevent fraying and provide a neat finish without bulk. This is especially relevant in sheer fabrics where the wrong side is visible.

• For delicate garments like lingerie, nightwear, or fine blouses, where they provide a luxurious finish and feel comfortable against the skin.

• For children's clothing, as they eliminate scratchy or irritating raw edges. 

• Unlined garments, giving a professional tidy finish even when the inside is visible.

• On straight seams: French seams work best with straight seams.

They are less suitable for curved or intricate seams, and thicker fabrics.

TIP:

Remember to check the fit of your garment after you have sewn the first line of stitching and alter your garment before you stitch the second line of stitching and trim.

A Mock French Seam

A mock French seam is an alternative to a traditional French seam. Here are some situations where mock French seams might be appropriate:

• For speed: The mock French seam is a great option if you need a quick seam finish that mimics the look of a French seam. 

• To avoid bulk in thicker fabrics: Heavier fabrics can get bulky from traditional French seams. Then a mock French seam can provide a cleaner finish without adding unnecessary thickness since it reduces the amount of fabric layers in the seam.

• On curved seams: Traditional French seams work best on straight seams. A mock French seam is easier to sew if you're working with curved seams.

• Less confident dressmakers: A mock French seam provides a tidy finish without the complexity of the traditional French seam.

Remember practice makes perfect, but you can master sewing narrow seams!

Begin with a mock French seam, aim for slightly wider seam allowances to begin with and then when you feel confident challenge yourself by trying to make them narrower.  As a result, you'll be able to create a wardrobe that is beautifully handcrafted and finished to a professional standard. 

Happy sewing!

PS. The Inside Secrets Of Sewing Bias Cut Garments will be available as a downloadable PDF soon.

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I’ve nearly finished creating a guide to help you master the secrets of sewing bias, including the few simple steps that can transform your sewing and allow you to create the most beautiful garments 🖋 

I learnt the hard way, sewing bias is a different cup of tea to sewing garments cut on the straight grain! 

My first bias projects ended up as sewing disasters I tried to forget, stuffed in a plastic bag at the bottom of my cupboard! Wavy seams and stretched-out-of-shape necklines, uneven hems - I’ve made all the mistakes! 

But now it’s a technique that I absolutely love and mindful sewing at its finest! 🧵🪡 

The most elegant, red carpet-worthy dresses are cut on the bias with slinky fluted skirts that drape beautifully.  A pretty bias-cut tea dress is so versatile that it takes you from the coffee shop to lunch with a friend to a romantic dinner for two.

And because cutting on the bias adds an element of stretch to woven fabrics, bias-cut garments allow you to move freely and are comfortable to wear - I plan to make a couple of camisoles, they are great for layering under a jacket or silk blouse. 

The Inside Secrets Of Sewing Bias Cut Garments will be available as a downloadable PDF soon.

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I decided that my workroom needed a bit of a spring clean, not that it feels at all like Spring today as it's so cold I am seriously considering wearing a woolly hat indoors! I'm already wearing a scarf and fingerless gloves!

I love having little displays of pretty things dotted around me as I work, I think of them as miniature inspiration boards.

However it can all get a little messy and chaotic, and when things reach fever pitch I know it’s time for a tidy-up to give me a blank slate to begin something new. In and amongst my creative muddle, I rediscovered these treasures of mine…

• A pretty set of antique scissors and a matching thimble.

• My set of WI dressmaking books, published in 1927.

• Complete Needlecraft- including "Everything about Embroidery, Home Dressmaking, Knitting and Crochet and Home Upholstery, etc. etc."

• A string of tiny pearl beads.

• My pink Burleigh jug, currently stuffed full of pens and pencils - it needs flowers!

• And "Hold For Chanel", which was attached to some fabric that I ordered from Linton Tweeds. (I remember that I had a little panic when the fabric arrived, so made a quick phone call to check the fabric was mine!)

Does anyone else wish that they could be creative and tidy too?

I must confess I’ve spent more time staring at pretty things than the actual job of tidying?

Happy Friday!

PS. I’m off to find a woolly hat!

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We created handmade Christmas angels and fairies with lazy-daisy stitch heart-shaped fairy mouths, embroidered eyelashes and plaits galore, lace dresses, woolly jumpers ( and drawers!), sparkly Dorothy shoes, diamanté tiaras and crystal wands. 

And the Tearooms at Sugnall Walled Garden provided us with mince pies and delicious cakes!

And then there were couture velvet stockings with faded floral cuffs, embellished with velvet flowers, tassels and bells. 

My heart is full. It was fabulous to fill the Peach House at Sugnall Walled Garden and my attic studio with kindred spirits. And I enjoyed all the stitch-a-long chatter. A huge thank you to everyone who came and to the ladies at Sugnall who provided us with delicious refreshments.

And it left me thinking… can we do it all again? 

If you missed out and would like to get together a friend or two for a creative festive gathering this side of Christmas, do get in touch. And I’m thinking about more gatherings to give us all something to look forward to next year.

Happy sewing!

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Beckford Silk is often the first place I go to source fabric for an event or special occasion. Usually, I’ll find dressmaking material on their website and order online.

But when the couture daughter needs a dress for a party in ten days, (and there are postal issues), there's only one thing to do...go on a fabric expedition with the couture husband.

So the couture dogs had an early morning perambulation around the meadow, and we set off on our travels.

Beckford Silk’s home is just a short hop from the M5 motorway. And it’s complete and utter fabric heaven! 💫

There's roll upon roll of dyed and printed silks in a rainbow of colours, from silk chiffons to devoré velvets. And soft silk jacquards in Paisleys and florals with a wonderful drape. And not forgetting the silk Polka dots for that Pretty Woman moment.

The fabric is dyed and printed on the premises, and you can also book a group tour of their workshops.

Bored husbands can enjoy delicious cake in the café, ( and it’s a truth universally acknowledged that my other half likes a cake or two)! There's also a video about the silk dyeing and printing process to keep them entertained, whilst you shop until you drop.

A quick Facetime with Em and the fabric was decided upon, a beautiful bottle-green heavy silk crepe satin. But I couldn't resist a few other silks for my stash too! I know - I just couldn't leave without them!

It was the best kind of day out! 🛍

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Burleigh transfers... printed onto tissue paper and then transferred by hand onto china. They’re so delicate and translucent that you can see the light through them, they remind me of ethereal silk chiffon, and the transfer patterns just beg to be embroidered! And then there’s the lace-like edgings and floral shapes...

They hang in sheets ready to be used at Middleport Pottery, which has to be one of my favourite places on the planet. I persuaded myself that I “needed” another cup and saucer for my morning cup of tea, and another jug or several!

So am I Inspired by Staffordshire’s cultural heritage?

... Absoblinkinglutely I am!

Fuelling creativity elegantly is vital, isn’t it?

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How do I know if I need to make a Full Bust Adjustment? 

Have you ever bought or made a garment based on your usual bust measurement only to find that the shoulders and neckline fit well, but it just feels too tight and pulls across your bust with crease lines appearing, or even worse, rides up whilst you are wearing it? So you choose a bigger bust size only to find that the garment fits your bust but gapes badly at the neckline and the shoulder area, and the armhole seems baggy? Well, the following is a solution for you! 

What does a full bust adjustment do?

It adds extra width and length to the front of a garment to fit over a bigger bust without changing the size of the shoulder or underarm seams. 

 You Will Need

• A desktop printer.

• Adobe Acrobat Reader, which you can download here for free.

• A4 letter paper.

• Paper scissors.

• Sellotape, or clear magic tape.

• A table top to lay out your pattern pieces.

First Steps

So, where to begin? 

The first step is to take your body measurements. This is best done with the underwear you’re likely to wear underneath. And unless you have a trusted friend to measure you, a mirror is helpful to check the tape measure is level. 

You need to know your Bust and High Bust measurements. 

Your Bust measurement is a measurement around your body at the highest and fullest point of your bust. Measure your High Bust across your back, under your armpits and above your bust.

Work out your pattern cup size

Pattern cup sizes are determined by the difference between High Bust and Bust measurements. They are named the same, B, C, D  cup etc., but are found differently to bra cup sizes:

A   cup   =  2.5 cm or 1 inch difference 

B   cup   =  5 cm or 2 inches difference

C   cup   =  7.5 cm or 3 inches difference

D   cup   =  10 cm or 4 inches difference

DD cup = 12.5 cm or 5 inches difference

Most tissue paper and PDF patterns are drawn for a pattern B cup, but some designs are drafted for a C cup and occasionally a D. 

 So how do I choose a pattern size?

Now it’s time for some maths!

 The first step is to determine what pattern size to use based on your High Bust measurement.

If the pattern is drafted for a B cup, take your High Bust measurement and add 5 cm.

For example, if your High Bust measures 87 cm, and you add 5 cm:

87 +5 =92 cm

you would choose a size 12 as it’s drafted for a 92 cm bust. 

Then work out your Pattern Cup Size by subtracting your Bust measurement from your High Bust measurement. 
If your Bust measurement is 99.5 cm and your High Bust measurement is 87 cm, you would need to add:

99.5 - 87 = 12.5 cm

12.5 cm, which would be a DD cup size.

The total amount you need to add to your pattern so that it fits you is calculated by subtracting the pattern bust size from your own Bust measurement.

e.g. 99.5 - 92 cm = 7.5 cm

But as we are altering half the front pattern ( from the side seam to the centre front), divide this amount ( 7.5 cm) by two. 

7.5 ÷ 2 = 3.75 cm

It does seem complicated, I was a little confuddled for quite a while, but it will make all the difference to how your garment fits! 

Here’s a chart to help you! 

What To Do Next - Prepare Your Pattern

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

You’re nearly there!

13.

14.

Et voilà, you’ve added extra length and width to the front of your pattern, but your shoulder and side seams will still match the back of your pattern. Time for a cup of tea!

Make sure that you check and refine the fit by making a  muslin or toile.

Happy sewing!

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PPS. For more information on my couture atelier, please click here.

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But because it involves breakfast, Tiffany & Co sparkles, Audrey, a smattering of Givenchy sketches and a raid on my jewellery box for diamanté, it's time well spent in my humble opinion. ✨

I’m off to find my sunglasses and enjoy some sunshine 😎 ( and quite possibly dream up my next mood board and another project!)

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If you’re making your own clothes, the chance is that you’re keen to create something that flatters you. But what do you do if you’ve taken your measurements and found that there isn’t one size that works for you? 

This is familiar to me, and the reason why I started to make my clothes as I couldn’t find anything in the shops that fit me. I have two sizes difference between my waist and hips. My waist is size 10, and my hips a size 14 (and after a good Christmas, three sizes and more like a size 16!) So I could never find a shift dress that ticked all the boxes!

Remember, everybody is different, so a pattern will rarely fit nicely without any adjustments. But, again, it’s not a fault; it’s completely normal! Even if a pattern designer could spend all their time developing every possible pattern size, that’s lots of work, especially if you think about how many bra and cup sizes there are in the shops. The chances are you’ll still need to adjust the pattern until you’re happy. 

So what do you do if you think you’re between sizes?  

Don’t worry!

• Take your measurements and compare them with the size chart. I find it helpful to mark what size I am for each measurement, as it helps me see where I am at a glance. 

• Then look at the finished garment measurements, usually recorded on the back of the pattern envelope or in the sewing instructions.

Most patterns for woven fabrics have wearing ease -  the additional amount needed to make sure that you can breathe, sit down and move about (usually 5 cm -7.5 cm in most garments). Patterns also have design ease, which depends on how the garment is cut, i.e. is the garment fired or loose-fitting etc. 

You might find that you're happy with the ease amount. Use your tape measure to see if the garment measurement feels comfortable. Are you satisfied with it, or do you want to alter it?

• If the ease amount isn’t the solution, then try the following: 

For a skirt or trousers - choose a pattern that fits your hips and adjust your waist and depth of hips to fit. If the sewing pattern is multi-sized, you can use the waist of one size and the hip measurement of another and grade or blend between the sizes. 

Select a dress pattern that fits your neck and shoulders. This is where your high bust measurement comes in handy. If you need to adjust the bust area by doing a full bust or small bust adjustment, do that next.

(A post on how to make a full bust adjustment is coming soon).

Then grade the pattern between sizes if you need different sizes in the waist and hip area. To do this…

You Will Need

• A tape measure.

• A pen or pencil.

• Paper to write your measurements on, or you can download a handy chart here.

• The pattern envelope or instructions for the design with the size chart on it and also the finished garment measurements.

• A copy of the printed or PDF sewing pattern of the garment you plan to make. If the pattern is layered select and print out the sizes you need.

• French curves or a Pattern Master.

• A tabletop to layout your pattern pieces.

First Steps

• Use your measurements to decide what size you are at each level. 

E.g. a size 10 at bust level,  a size 12 at waist level and a size 14 at hip level. 

• Using your coloured pencil, draw a smooth line on your dressmaking pattern between the sizes. The line must be a smooth curve as bodies do not have straight lines or corners! A French curve or Patternmaster, or even a curve tool will help you. 

See the diagram below:

What to do next

• Repeat the same steps for all your pattern pieces, front and back. 

• If there’s a seam that falls across your blending lines, e.g. an empire line, pin all the pattern pieces together so that you can blend a smooth line from top to bottom.

• Adjust any pockets that sit on these blending lines -  e.g. side seam pockets. 

• Finally, select the sleeve size that corresponds with your bust size.

You can do a similar adjustment if you are a size 14 bust and a smaller size 10 hips, but only if you are the same pattern cup size as the pattern. If you have a large bust cup size you’d be better off making a full bust adjustment instead.

In this case, you’d select a size 14 sleeve to fit your armhole.

Hopefully the above will help you to create a shift dress that fits perfectly. If you have any questions please get in touch.

Happy sewing!

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This post is part of a series exploring how to choose the most appropriate pattern size and alter it so that you create a garment that fits and flatters you perfectly. 

Remember that everybody is different, so a pattern will rarely fit nicely without any adjustments. It’s not a fault; it’s completely normal! And even if a pattern designer could spend all their time developing every possible pattern size (and that’s lots and lots of work), it’s likely that you’d still need to adjust the pattern until you’re happy.

So how do I know what size pattern to choose?  

The first step is to take your body measurements. You’ll find a helpful post about this here. 

For a  skirt or trousers

Choose a pattern that fits your hips and adjust your waist and depth of hips to fit.

If the sewing pattern is multi-sized, you can use the waist of one size and the hip measurement of another and grade between the sizes. 

I have two sizes difference between my waist and hips. My waist is a  size 10, and my hips size 14  (and after a good Christmas with lots of mince pies, three sizes  different, and more like a  size 16!) 

Bear in mind the finished garment measurements. Most patterns have wearing ease, the amount of ease needed to make sure that you can breathe, sit down and move about(usually 5cm -7.5cm in most garments).  And design or style ease too, e.g. is the garment fitted or loose-fitting, etc. 

It’s a good idea to make sure that you're happy with the ease amount. Use your tape measure to see if the garment measurement feels comfortable. Are you satisfied with it, or do you want to alter it? 

How to choose a pattern size for a top or a blouse? 

For a top or a blouse, choose a pattern that will fit your neck and shoulders. This is where your High Bust measurement comes in handy. This is a measurement across your back, under your armpits and above your bust. ( See image.)

Sewing patterns are sometimes designed with cup sizes denoted by letters, so it’s good to check what cup size patterns are drafted for.

However, it’s not the same thing as bra cup sizes! I know! (Seriously! )

Pattern cup sizes

Pattern cup sizes are determined by the difference between the High Bust measurement and Bust measurement. They are named the same, B, C, D  cup etc., but the sizes are found differently:

A cup     =  2.5 cm  or 1 inch difference 

B cup     = 5 cm or 2 inch difference

C cup     = 7.5 cm or 3 inch difference

D cup     = 10 cm  or 4 inch difference

DD cup = 12.5 cm or 5 inch differenceMost tissue paper and PDF patterns are drawn for a B cup, but some designs are drafted for a C cup and occasionally a D. Some pattern designers vary the cup sizes across the size range, so it’s always best to check. 

If the difference between your measurements and the pattern cup size is only one size, i.e. an A or a C, and the garment has enough design ease, you may get away with using the B cup pattern.

If you are more than one cup size away, or the pattern is very fitted, it’s a good idea to make a Full Bust Adjustment (or a Small Bust Adjustment) which will alter the front of the garment in the bust area without changing the length of the shoulder or side seams. 

A blog post on how to make a Full Bust Adjustment is coming soon.  

Lingerie patterns are often designed for a range of bra cup sizes.

Bra sizes are denoted by number and letter and determined by the Ribcage ( or underbust measurement) and the bust measurement. 

The number is found by measuring the Ribcage and is usually just the closest number rounded down as most bras have elastic and rows of hooks to adjust the underhand anyway. 

So if your Ribcage is measured at 32 ¾ inches, your bra will be a size 32. 

The cup letter is determined by how much larger the Bust measurement is over the Ribcage.

So if your Bust measurement is 34.5 inches, there are 2.5 inches difference between the two measurements. This is where the letters come in:

1 inch or 2.5 cm difference = A cup

2 inches or  5 cm difference = B cup

3 inches or 7.5 cm difference = C cup

4 inches or 10  cm difference = D cup

5 inches or 12.5 cm difference

6 inches or 15cm difference

7 inches or 17.5 cm difference

Bra fitting is always a bit of a challenge, but making one yourself allows you to create something that fits perfectly. Check your measurements and your existing bra size against the designer’s size chart and choose the size that is the nearest, and then make a toile or muslin to check the fit before you cut the pattern out in its actual fabric. 

How to choose a pattern size for a dress?

Choose the pattern based on your choice for a top (see above), choose a pattern that will fit your neck and shoulders, alter the bust area with a full bust or small bust adjustment if the dress is fitted and then grade the pattern if you need different sizes in the waist and hip area.

You can find out how to grade a pattern between sizes here. 

Happy sewing! 

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