Did you know that Calais lace actually has its origins in the Nottingham? And that they’re related to each other? It's a story that involves stockings, a vicar, Luddites, smugglers and lace...

In 1812, John Leavers invented a machine to make lace, based on the Stocking Frame ( a machine invented in 1589 by a Nottingham vicar, Rev. William Lee to help his wife knit, well yes, stockings!)

This new machine-made Leavers lace threatened the livelihoods of the traditional lace workers, artisans who were highly trained and took great pride in their work. In the discontent that followed new factories were attacked and the machines vandalised by the Luddites, named after an elusive figure Ned Ludd.

And then there’s the legal blows! To protect vulnerable trade secrets the British government also banned the export of these machines. And it was an offence for a textile worker to leave Britain for to carry out his trade, adding to the misery at home.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

In 1816, some Nottingham lace workers escaped the bitterness to manufacturing in England, and smuggled in the first lace making machines to France, dismantled and mixed with old iron! Skilled operators were smuggled across the Channel too, in a ship called The Smuggler! They settled in Calais, a port in need of a new economy after the Napoleonic Wars, and that’s where the hub of the French Lace making industry continues to this day.

Stockings, a reverend invention, artisans, Luddites, smugglers and lace, quite a tale for today! Did I mention Free Trade? Oh heck, perhaps another day!

PS. Don’t miss a trick, you can sign up below.

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It is a truth universally acknowledged that sheer or lightweight fabrics need neat and delicate seams!

But have you ever wondered if there was an easier way to create narrow seams? This guide will walk you through a few simple steps that can transform your sewing and help you create the most beautiful garments with a couture finish.

Before You Begin

You can't sew narrow seams and get frustrated with them- it will show! Couture dressmaking is mindful sewing at its finest, and the best garments are sewn calmly and with a lot of love!

So take a deep breath and let go of all that tension, play some soothing music, light a candle. Do whatever you need to do to find a state of flow.

Use a new sharp needle and good-quality thread

Choose a fine needle suitable for fine or lightweight fabrics, such as a size 70/10 or 80/12.

Select a thread that’s fine and strong, in a matching colour to your fabric, an all-purpose polyester thread will do the trick. 

Pin the seams

Pin the fabric securely at right angles to the direction that you are sewing in, matching notches and the edges of the fabric. Remember to move the pins as you stitch so that they don’t get tangled up in your machine. 

Adjust stitch length and width 

Reduce the stitch length to ensure that the stitching is strong, about 2.0 mm should create smaller more secure stitches. Stitch a sample on a scrap piece of fabric first, and adjust the stitch length and tension until you are happy. 

Find a seam guide

Check which marking on your machine would be the best one for the width of the seam that you are stitching. For more usual seam allowances the standard seam guide marks on the bed of your machine (e.g. 1.5 cm etc) will help you.

However, for smaller seam allowances you’ll need to find something to guide you, otherwise you’ll feel as if you are flying blind! I often find that the lines and marks on your sewing foot will help, and then I’ll adjust the needle position left and right if I need to.

Here I’m adding a second row of stitching. I’m using where the foot attaches to the shank ( red arrow), to guide me along my first line of stitching (dotted line).

Sew slowly and steadily

You need a light touch - you're not sewing fast as if you're motor racing and pressing the foot to the floor here!

At the start of a seam, lower the presser foot to secure the fabric, then insert the needle. If you can, set the machine so that it will stop with the needle down when you take your foot off the pedal. Hold the threads as you begin sewing to stop the fabric from disappearing down into the needle plate. 

Breathe, and sew slowly and steadily. Stitch a maximum of 15-20 cm (6-8 inches), then stop with the needle in the fabric, pause and stitch again. Repeat until the entire seam is stitched.

Support your fabric and don’t let it hang from the table while you sew. I usually move my machine as far to the right of the table as I can, so that I have lots of table space beside my machine to rest my garment on.

Press each of your garment seams as you go.

A French Seam

A French seam is a type of seam finish that encloses the raw edges of fabric for a clean and polished look on the inside of a garment. It is commonly used in lightweight and sheer fabrics.

Here's where you might use a French seam:

• In fine fabrics such as chiffon, organza and silk, French seams prevent fraying and provide a neat finish without bulk. This is especially relevant in sheer fabrics where the wrong side is visible.

• For delicate garments like lingerie, nightwear, or fine blouses, where they provide a luxurious finish and feel comfortable against the skin.

• For children's clothing, as they eliminate scratchy or irritating raw edges. 

• Unlined garments, giving a professional tidy finish even when the inside is visible.

• On straight seams: French seams work best with straight seams.

They are less suitable for curved or intricate seams, and thicker fabrics.

TIP:

Remember to check the fit of your garment after you have sewn the first line of stitching and alter your garment before you stitch the second line of stitching and trim.

A Mock French Seam

A mock French seam is an alternative to a traditional French seam. Here are some situations where mock French seams might be appropriate:

• For speed: The mock French seam is a great option if you need a quick seam finish that mimics the look of a French seam. 

• To avoid bulk in thicker fabrics: Heavier fabrics can get bulky from traditional French seams. Then a mock French seam can provide a cleaner finish without adding unnecessary thickness since it reduces the amount of fabric layers in the seam.

• On curved seams: Traditional French seams work best on straight seams. A mock French seam is easier to sew if you're working with curved seams.

• Less confident dressmakers: A mock French seam provides a tidy finish without the complexity of the traditional French seam.

Remember practice makes perfect, but you can master sewing narrow seams!

Begin with a mock French seam, aim for slightly wider seam allowances to begin with and then when you feel confident challenge yourself by trying to make them narrower.  As a result, you'll be able to create a wardrobe that is beautifully handcrafted and finished to a professional standard. 

Happy sewing!

PS. The Inside Secrets Of Sewing Bias Cut Garments will be available as a downloadable PDF soon.

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I’ve nearly finished creating a guide to help you master the secrets of sewing bias, including the few simple steps that can transform your sewing and allow you to create the most beautiful garments 🖋 

I learnt the hard way, sewing bias is a different cup of tea to sewing garments cut on the straight grain! 

My first bias projects ended up as sewing disasters I tried to forget, stuffed in a plastic bag at the bottom of my cupboard! Wavy seams and stretched-out-of-shape necklines, uneven hems - I’ve made all the mistakes! 

But now it’s a technique that I absolutely love and mindful sewing at its finest! 🧵🪡 

The most elegant, red carpet-worthy dresses are cut on the bias with slinky fluted skirts that drape beautifully.  A pretty bias-cut tea dress is so versatile that it takes you from the coffee shop to lunch with a friend to a romantic dinner for two.

And because cutting on the bias adds an element of stretch to woven fabrics, bias-cut garments allow you to move freely and are comfortable to wear - I plan to make a couple of camisoles, they are great for layering under a jacket or silk blouse. 

The Inside Secrets Of Sewing Bias Cut Garments will be available as a downloadable PDF soon.

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I decided that my workroom needed a bit of a spring clean, not that it feels at all like Spring today as it's so cold I am seriously considering wearing a woolly hat indoors! I'm already wearing a scarf and fingerless gloves!

I love having little displays of pretty things dotted around me as I work, I think of them as miniature inspiration boards.

However it can all get a little messy and chaotic, and when things reach fever pitch I know it’s time for a tidy-up to give me a blank slate to begin something new. In and amongst my creative muddle, I rediscovered these treasures of mine…

• A pretty set of antique scissors and a matching thimble.

• My set of WI dressmaking books, published in 1927.

• Complete Needlecraft- including "Everything about Embroidery, Home Dressmaking, Knitting and Crochet and Home Upholstery, etc. etc."

• A string of tiny pearl beads.

• My pink Burleigh jug, currently stuffed full of pens and pencils - it needs flowers!

• And "Hold For Chanel", which was attached to some fabric that I ordered from Linton Tweeds. (I remember that I had a little panic when the fabric arrived, so made a quick phone call to check the fabric was mine!)

Does anyone else wish that they could be creative and tidy too?

I must confess I’ve spent more time staring at pretty things than the actual job of tidying?

Happy Friday!

PS. I’m off to find a woolly hat!

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How do I know if I need to make a Full Bust Adjustment? 

Have you ever bought or made a garment based on your usual bust measurement only to find that the shoulders and neckline fit well, but it just feels too tight and pulls across your bust with crease lines appearing, or even worse, rides up whilst you are wearing it? So you choose a bigger bust size only to find that the garment fits your bust but gapes badly at the neckline and the shoulder area, and the armhole seems baggy? Well, the following is a solution for you! 

What does a full bust adjustment do?

It adds extra width and length to the front of a garment to fit over a bigger bust without changing the size of the shoulder or underarm seams. 

 You Will Need

• A desktop printer.

• Adobe Acrobat Reader, which you can download here for free.

• A4 letter paper.

• Paper scissors.

• Sellotape, or clear magic tape.

• A table top to lay out your pattern pieces.

First Steps

So, where to begin? 

The first step is to take your body measurements. This is best done with the underwear you’re likely to wear underneath. And unless you have a trusted friend to measure you, a mirror is helpful to check the tape measure is level. 

You need to know your Bust and High Bust measurements. 

Your Bust measurement is a measurement around your body at the highest and fullest point of your bust. Measure your High Bust across your back, under your armpits and above your bust.

Work out your pattern cup size

Pattern cup sizes are determined by the difference between High Bust and Bust measurements. They are named the same, B, C, D  cup etc., but are found differently to bra cup sizes:

A   cup   =  2.5 cm or 1 inch difference 

B   cup   =  5 cm or 2 inches difference

C   cup   =  7.5 cm or 3 inches difference

D   cup   =  10 cm or 4 inches difference

DD cup = 12.5 cm or 5 inches difference

Most tissue paper and PDF patterns are drawn for a pattern B cup, but some designs are drafted for a C cup and occasionally a D. 

 So how do I choose a pattern size?

Now it’s time for some maths!

 The first step is to determine what pattern size to use based on your High Bust measurement.

If the pattern is drafted for a B cup, take your High Bust measurement and add 5 cm.

For example, if your High Bust measures 87 cm, and you add 5 cm:

87 +5 =92 cm

you would choose a size 12 as it’s drafted for a 92 cm bust. 

Then work out your Pattern Cup Size by subtracting your Bust measurement from your High Bust measurement. 
If your Bust measurement is 99.5 cm and your High Bust measurement is 87 cm, you would need to add:

99.5 - 87 = 12.5 cm

12.5 cm, which would be a DD cup size.

The total amount you need to add to your pattern so that it fits you is calculated by subtracting the pattern bust size from your own Bust measurement.

e.g. 99.5 - 92 cm = 7.5 cm

But as we are altering half the front pattern ( from the side seam to the centre front), divide this amount ( 7.5 cm) by two. 

7.5 ÷ 2 = 3.75 cm

It does seem complicated, I was a little confuddled for quite a while, but it will make all the difference to how your garment fits! 

Here’s a chart to help you! 

What To Do Next - Prepare Your Pattern

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

You’re nearly there!

13.

14.

Et voilà, you’ve added extra length and width to the front of your pattern, but your shoulder and side seams will still match the back of your pattern. Time for a cup of tea!

Make sure that you check and refine the fit by making a  muslin or toile.

Happy sewing!

PS. Sign up for my newsletter to receive a regular dose of prettiness and details of upcoming masterclasses.

PPS. For more information on my couture atelier, please click here.

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If you’re making your own clothes, the chance is that you’re keen to create something that flatters you. But what do you do if you’ve taken your measurements and found that there isn’t one size that works for you? 

This is familiar to me, and the reason why I started to make my clothes as I couldn’t find anything in the shops that fit me. I have two sizes difference between my waist and hips. My waist is size 10, and my hips a size 14 (and after a good Christmas, three sizes and more like a size 16!) So I could never find a shift dress that ticked all the boxes!

Remember, everybody is different, so a pattern will rarely fit nicely without any adjustments. But, again, it’s not a fault; it’s completely normal! Even if a pattern designer could spend all their time developing every possible pattern size, that’s lots of work, especially if you think about how many bra and cup sizes there are in the shops. The chances are you’ll still need to adjust the pattern until you’re happy. 

So what do you do if you think you’re between sizes?  

Don’t worry!

• Take your measurements and compare them with the size chart. I find it helpful to mark what size I am for each measurement, as it helps me see where I am at a glance. 

• Then look at the finished garment measurements, usually recorded on the back of the pattern envelope or in the sewing instructions.

Most patterns for woven fabrics have wearing ease -  the additional amount needed to make sure that you can breathe, sit down and move about (usually 5 cm -7.5 cm in most garments). Patterns also have design ease, which depends on how the garment is cut, i.e. is the garment fired or loose-fitting etc. 

You might find that you're happy with the ease amount. Use your tape measure to see if the garment measurement feels comfortable. Are you satisfied with it, or do you want to alter it?

• If the ease amount isn’t the solution, then try the following: 

For a skirt or trousers - choose a pattern that fits your hips and adjust your waist and depth of hips to fit. If the sewing pattern is multi-sized, you can use the waist of one size and the hip measurement of another and grade or blend between the sizes. 

Select a dress pattern that fits your neck and shoulders. This is where your high bust measurement comes in handy. If you need to adjust the bust area by doing a full bust or small bust adjustment, do that next.

(A post on how to make a full bust adjustment is coming soon).

Then grade the pattern between sizes if you need different sizes in the waist and hip area. To do this…

You Will Need

• A tape measure.

• A pen or pencil.

• Paper to write your measurements on, or you can download a handy chart here.

• The pattern envelope or instructions for the design with the size chart on it and also the finished garment measurements.

• A copy of the printed or PDF sewing pattern of the garment you plan to make. If the pattern is layered select and print out the sizes you need.

• French curves or a Pattern Master.

• A tabletop to layout your pattern pieces.

First Steps

• Use your measurements to decide what size you are at each level. 

E.g. a size 10 at bust level,  a size 12 at waist level and a size 14 at hip level. 

• Using your coloured pencil, draw a smooth line on your dressmaking pattern between the sizes. The line must be a smooth curve as bodies do not have straight lines or corners! A French curve or Patternmaster, or even a curve tool will help you. 

See the diagram below:

What to do next

• Repeat the same steps for all your pattern pieces, front and back. 

• If there’s a seam that falls across your blending lines, e.g. an empire line, pin all the pattern pieces together so that you can blend a smooth line from top to bottom.

• Adjust any pockets that sit on these blending lines -  e.g. side seam pockets. 

• Finally, select the sleeve size that corresponds with your bust size.

You can do a similar adjustment if you are a size 14 bust and a smaller size 10 hips, but only if you are the same pattern cup size as the pattern. If you have a large bust cup size you’d be better off making a full bust adjustment instead.

In this case, you’d select a size 14 sleeve to fit your armhole.

Hopefully the above will help you to create a shift dress that fits perfectly. If you have any questions please get in touch.

Happy sewing!

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This post is part of a series exploring how to choose the most appropriate pattern size and alter it so that you create a garment that fits and flatters you perfectly. 

Remember that everybody is different, so a pattern will rarely fit nicely without any adjustments. It’s not a fault; it’s completely normal! And even if a pattern designer could spend all their time developing every possible pattern size (and that’s lots and lots of work), it’s likely that you’d still need to adjust the pattern until you’re happy.

So how do I know what size pattern to choose?  

The first step is to take your body measurements. You’ll find a helpful post about this here. 

For a  skirt or trousers

Choose a pattern that fits your hips and adjust your waist and depth of hips to fit.

If the sewing pattern is multi-sized, you can use the waist of one size and the hip measurement of another and grade between the sizes. 

I have two sizes difference between my waist and hips. My waist is a  size 10, and my hips size 14  (and after a good Christmas with lots of mince pies, three sizes  different, and more like a  size 16!) 

Bear in mind the finished garment measurements. Most patterns have wearing ease, the amount of ease needed to make sure that you can breathe, sit down and move about(usually 5cm -7.5cm in most garments).  And design or style ease too, e.g. is the garment fitted or loose-fitting, etc. 

It’s a good idea to make sure that you're happy with the ease amount. Use your tape measure to see if the garment measurement feels comfortable. Are you satisfied with it, or do you want to alter it? 

How to choose a pattern size for a top or a blouse? 

For a top or a blouse, choose a pattern that will fit your neck and shoulders. This is where your High Bust measurement comes in handy. This is a measurement across your back, under your armpits and above your bust. ( See image.)

Sewing patterns are sometimes designed with cup sizes denoted by letters, so it’s good to check what cup size patterns are drafted for.

However, it’s not the same thing as bra cup sizes! I know! (Seriously! )

Pattern cup sizes

Pattern cup sizes are determined by the difference between the High Bust measurement and Bust measurement. They are named the same, B, C, D  cup etc., but the sizes are found differently:

A cup     =  2.5 cm  or 1 inch difference 

B cup     = 5 cm or 2 inch difference

C cup     = 7.5 cm or 3 inch difference

D cup     = 10 cm  or 4 inch difference

DD cup = 12.5 cm or 5 inch differenceMost tissue paper and PDF patterns are drawn for a B cup, but some designs are drafted for a C cup and occasionally a D. Some pattern designers vary the cup sizes across the size range, so it’s always best to check. 

If the difference between your measurements and the pattern cup size is only one size, i.e. an A or a C, and the garment has enough design ease, you may get away with using the B cup pattern.

If you are more than one cup size away, or the pattern is very fitted, it’s a good idea to make a Full Bust Adjustment (or a Small Bust Adjustment) which will alter the front of the garment in the bust area without changing the length of the shoulder or side seams. 

A blog post on how to make a Full Bust Adjustment is coming soon.  

Lingerie patterns are often designed for a range of bra cup sizes.

Bra sizes are denoted by number and letter and determined by the Ribcage ( or underbust measurement) and the bust measurement. 

The number is found by measuring the Ribcage and is usually just the closest number rounded down as most bras have elastic and rows of hooks to adjust the underhand anyway. 

So if your Ribcage is measured at 32 ¾ inches, your bra will be a size 32. 

The cup letter is determined by how much larger the Bust measurement is over the Ribcage.

So if your Bust measurement is 34.5 inches, there are 2.5 inches difference between the two measurements. This is where the letters come in:

1 inch or 2.5 cm difference = A cup

2 inches or  5 cm difference = B cup

3 inches or 7.5 cm difference = C cup

4 inches or 10  cm difference = D cup

5 inches or 12.5 cm difference

6 inches or 15cm difference

7 inches or 17.5 cm difference

Bra fitting is always a bit of a challenge, but making one yourself allows you to create something that fits perfectly. Check your measurements and your existing bra size against the designer’s size chart and choose the size that is the nearest, and then make a toile or muslin to check the fit before you cut the pattern out in its actual fabric. 

How to choose a pattern size for a dress?

Choose the pattern based on your choice for a top (see above), choose a pattern that will fit your neck and shoulders, alter the bust area with a full bust or small bust adjustment if the dress is fitted and then grade the pattern if you need different sizes in the waist and hip area.

You can find out how to grade a pattern between sizes here. 

Happy sewing! 

PS. If you’d like to receive more sewing hints and tips from me, don’t forget to sign up for my newsletter below.

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Today  I'm sharing the story of a very special couture dress in gold lace. So reach for your tea and be prepared for an incredible amount of sheer prettiness. And ( cue drum roll…) all the sewing techniques featured here will be featured in upcoming dressmaking masterclasses next year.

One of the joys of being a Couture designer is the ability to create something completely unique, to take a brief and inspiration and push the boundaries to make a piece of art. This commission was undoubtedly that. It was and never will be "just a garment."

Here is a dress created for a Gatsby party, vintage-inspired, but certainly not costumey, fashion-forward and modern too.

Oh my... cue lots of thought and lots more dreaming.

We ( and it is "we" because my client and I worked closely together,) began an inspiration board on Pinterest. A completely brilliant way of collecting ideas, refining a brief and establishing a design direction.

And then the fabric sourcing began. We loved the mix of soft colours and metallics. Our shortlist of gold, silver, pastel colours and sparkles made us feel so inspired.

Once we had set upon this gold lace and soft pink silk satin, we allowed the fabrics to dictate a direction. We loved the dresses worn by Carey Mulligan in the film "The Great Gatsby", and wanted to create the soft prettiness of some of the dresses she wore as Daisy Buchanan. Although the 1930s was the Art Deco period, we wanted to capture the softness of layers of bias cut fabrics and floating panels that would fly with movement and dance. Flowers were cut out and used as applique on the high low hem, both on the lace layer and the linings underneath.

.... soft, pretty, organic and dreamy!

And then we fell in love with the idea of a detachable cape, with delicate appliqué, using the edge of the lace and the flowers too…

And it was beaded with tiny glass seed pearls in gold and dusky pinks. And vintage sequins too.

For a couture designer, this was a dream come true - to be given the opportunity to create something truly special that was hand-finished with lots of love. I hope ( actually, I’m pretty sure I know for certain!) that this couture piece will be treasured for many years to come.

And if this post has inspired you to create something beautiful too, the techniques here will feature in my dressmaking masterclasses next year. You can join the waitlist here.

Happy sewing!

PS. Sign up for my newsletter to receive a regular dose of prettiness and details of upcoming masterclasses.

PPS. For more information on my couture atelier, please click here.

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If you’re making your own clothes, the chance is that you’re keen to create something that flatters you. You’ll start to look more closely at how something fits you and perhaps get more than a little frustrated, so hopefully, this post will help! 

The first step is to take your body measurements

You're probably used to measuring the body circumference of your bust, waist and hips, as this is something we often do before ordering ready-made clothes online.

However, before you invest time in creating a garment, there are some more measurements to check.

You Will Need

• You’ll need a piece of ribbon or string long enough to tie around your waist, a tape measure, a pen and paper, or you can download a handy chart on which to record your measurements here. 

• And unless you have a trusted friend to measure you, a mirror is helpful to check the tape measure is level. 

• To wear the underwear, you’re likely to wear underneath.

• And unless you have a trusted friend to measure you, a mirror is helpful to check the tape measure is level. 

Top Tip

For measurements around your body, keep the tape straight, untwisted and parallel to the floor. And although it might seem obvious, make sure that you are measuring from the right end and don’t pull the tape too tightly!

Which measurements do I need?

• Bust - Your bust measurement is at the highest and fullest point of your bust

• High bust is not usually detailed in size charts but is a helpful reference if you are small or large-busted. You measure your high bust across your back, under your armpits and above your bust, keeping the tape measure parallel to the floor.

• Ribcage or underbust - some patterns will be designed for a range of bra cup sizes, e.g.lingerie. In which case, measuring around your ribcage just under your bust will help you decide which bra cup size to choose.

• Waist - your waist measurement is at the narrowest part of your torso (and usually slightly higher than you imagine). If you tie a piece of string or ribbon around your middle where it sits happily is the level you take your measurement at.

• Hips are your hips at the widest point, anywhere from your lower tummy to your upper thighs.

• Depth Of Hips taken from your waist to the level of the widest point of your hips, usually 22 - 28 cm.

• Nape to waist - from the bony bump at the back of your neck to your waist level.

• Shoulder length - from the side of your neck to the shoulder point, a bony prominence at the side of your shoulder.

• Arm length - from the shoulder point to your wrist, measured down the side of your arm.

• Top arm, or biceps - is the widest circumference of your upper arm.

Two other measurements from the side neck point to hem and centre back length are helpful for comparing the length of the garment on the sewing pattern. 

If you’re planning to make a full-length dress or skirt from the centre back waist to the floor is helpful too.  

And don’t forget to record your measurements so you can find them easily. You can download a handy chart here. 

Happy sewing!

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Have you ever wanted to start a sewing project and found that you don’t have the pattern? And in a  world of instant solutions do you want to print out your pattern and get started right away? 

All our patterns are available as a PDF you can download on-the-spot! (And as a A0 file that can be sent to a copy shop too.)

You will need

• A desktop printer.

• Adobe Acrobat Reader, which you can download here for free.

• A4 letter paper.

• Paper scissors.

• Sellotape, or clear magic tape.

• A table top to lay out your pattern pieces.

First Steps

1) Download your pattern using the link provided and save it to your computer.

2) Open the digital file that you need in Adobe Acrobat Reader, you can download the latest version here for free.

I wouldn’t try and print from Mac Preview or Windows PDF viewer. (See troubleshooting tips later.)

3) Open your pattern in Adobe Acrobat Reader and find the page that has the Print Test Square.

The Print Test Square for To Gather And Stitch Patterns you will always be on page 1. 

What to do next

4) Check you have enough letter sized paper in your printer, either A4 or US Letter size. 

5) Press print, the icon is in the top row and this box should appear.   

6) Check that the pattern is scaled at 100%, depending on your printer it might say:

• Actual Size

• Scaled at 100%

• Custom Scale 100%

• Turn off scaling

Selecting any of these options should print your pattern at the correct size.

Make sure that the “Choose paper source by PDF page size” is unchecked. 

7) Print out JUST the page with the test square on, ( NOT the whole pattern!) For our patterns this will be on the first page , but patterns from other designers might vary.  

8) Measure the size of the test square. If it measures 10cm by 10cm you are good to go. If it doesn’t you’ll need to play about  and adjust your printer settings.

(See trouble shooting tips below.)

9) If your test square measures correctly you can print out the rest of the pattern using the same settings that you selected. It’s always useful to make a note of these for future reference. 

Next Steps

10) In the pattern instructions there is a jpeg of the pattern print, ( see above) showing how it all fits together. The printed pattern for a tote bag looks like this:

11) Lay out your pattern on your table, using this image to guide you. 

12) Cut away two sides of your pattern, one long side and one short side. I usually cut the right side and the bottom of each sheet. Cut just outside the printed line. 

13) Lay out your pattern on the table matching the diamond page markers alone the sides of each sheet and the pattern lines.

14) Sellotape each piece in place. I find that placing a weight, or a book on the sheet that you are going to tape in place ensures that everything stays in place and doesn’t move around before it’s secured.

It’s easier to tape one sheet of paper at a time. I work across the pattern from left to right and then from top to bottom.

15) When you are happy that everything is assembled together correctly you can cut out your pattern pieces, using the sizes that you need.

If your pattern is large you might need to do this as you go, however make sure that you have the  complete pattern pieces  close to it secured, otherwise you’ll end up with a “pattern jigsaw” to finish! 

If you are planning to grade between sizes I would cut the pattern out roughly around the largest size first and plan your grading afterwards. 

16) Keep the pattern key and size guides safe as you might need to refer to them later. 

Et voila, you have your PDF pattern assembled and ready to go

Troubleshooting

• Make sure that you are using the latest version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Ensure that you are not using another application to view the file, on a  MAC this could be Preview and on a PC Windows PDF viewer.

• Print from your saved file and not directly from your internet browser.

• Double check that in your printer settings you have selected Actual size 100%

• If the size of your test square is still causing problems click “Advanced Printer Settings” and then “Print as Image.”  

If you have any questions please get in touch. Happy sewing!

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I was very happy building the visual aspects of the brand.  I’m such visual person that I can see things way before I have the words to describe it. I had read and devoured Fiona Humberstone’s book “How To Style Your Brand”.  And as a result I had mood boards for everything hanging in my office, I had officially become a mood board addict! 

Now if I have to plan dinner party or a family event I will draw and collage it! Mood boarding is the way forward! Well for me at least! So I built the biggest mood board for a what this couture dressmaking and needlework academy would look and feel like, but I still couldn’t think of a  name…

I sleep with a notebook by my bed, as all my best ideas seem to happen in the middle of the night! And I’ve usually forgotten them by morning! Then during a bout of insomnia I had a lightbulb moment! To Gather… it was perfect

So What Is “To Gather”?

1) TO COLLECT SEVERAL THINGS TOGETHER

2) TO COME TOGETHER IN A GROUP                                  

3) TO UNDERSTAND OR BELIEVE SOMETHING AS A RESULT OF SOMETHING THAT HAS BEEN SAID OR DONE

4) TO PULL CLOTH INTO SMALL FOLDS BY SEWING A THREAD THROUGH IT AND THEN PULLING THE THREAD TIGHT

I’d found a name that was perfect in so many ways. So there is the happy tale of “To Gather And Stitch”.

…to collect several things together…

…to come together in a group…

…to understand or believe something as a result of something that has been said or done…

…to pull cloth into small folds by sewing a thread through it …

IT’S ALL IN A NAME! 

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I grew up in a family where for generations mothers taught their daughters to sew. My mother’s sewing machine lived on the dining room table, and it still does. In time my sewing machine would often be whizzing into the small hours as I made my own clothes too.

One thing led to another (with a few significant detours along the way!) I studied fashion design at Burslem College of Art and trained in Couture in London, and but by bit life all began to make sense.

I launched my first business, Sarah Willard Couture, in 2005. To begin with, it really was a kitchen table enterprise, enabling me to work from home and care for a small child. Very quickly it was successful and staff, a studio and then a shop soon followed.            

As result I’ve trained dressmakers and designers who have gone on to work for big names in the business. And my couture dresses have been worn across the globe, from London to America, Australia and Asia.

I’m absolutely passionate about fashion and Couture and the processes involved in creating beautiful garments, and will talk about it for hours if you let me! I became renowned for simple and uncluttered elegance and subtle detailing. Old fashioned couture techniques were used to handcraft heirloom dresses to be treasured forever.

I’ve a trophy cabinet with the shiny fashion awards I’ve collected along the way, but winning Wedding Dress Designer of the Year 2017 at The Wedding Industry Awards was the icing on the cake!

However I realised I needed a new challenge. When I began to study fashion I didn’t have the aim of being a bridal designer. It was to find a way of creative expression, and to make original and timeless clothes that would fit me perfectly (as nothing that I bought from a shop ever did!)

I wanted to make wardrobe heirlooms that I really wanted to wear and treasure. And I really enjoy teaching and training. So “To Gather And Stitch” is my way to combine the two, help you to create clothes that you want to wear. The plan is to make the world of Couture accessible to anyone who can thread a needle, step by step, one garment at a time.

I’m developing couture dressmaking courses, where you progress your sewing skills. There will be patterns and kits too. I can’t wait to support more people to stitch their dream wardrobe.

I’m so excited this adventure. And I’m hoping that you will follow me on the next stage of my dressmaking journey.

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