What better thing to do in July than visit one of the hottest places on Earth—Death Valley National Park. At least one advantage is that it’s not very crowded this time of year. Given the extreme temperatures, we decided to give the RV’s air conditioner a break and booked a room at The Ranch at Death Valley instead. It turned out to be a pleasant little oasis in the desert, with cottages set around a central “square” that includes shops, restaurants, and even an ice cream parlor.

 Our first day started early in the morning to try to beat the extreme heat—everything you read about Death Valley strongly recommends not hiking after 10 a.m. We managed to hit many of the park’s main highlights in one morning, beginning at Badwater Basin and then continuing on to Natural Bridge, Devil’s Golf Course, Artists Palette, Golden Canyon, Zabriskie Point, and Twenty Mule Team Canyon, before finishing the day with the sweeping views from Dante’s View.

 We spent the most time at Badwater Basin, which is said to have gotten its name after a mule reportedly refused to drink from the salty spring-fed pool of water there. This is where the famous salt flats are located, sitting 282 feet below sea level. A marker on the nearby hillside shows where sea level would be above you, which really puts the elevation into perspective. You can see the salt flats from the road, but it’s much more interesting to walk out onto them. The ground is covered in salt that forms a variety of crystal patterns, stretching out in every direction. In most areas, the salt is hard and dry, crunching underfoot, but in a few spots it remains damp from the underground spring, and your foot sinks slightly into the mud beneath. We walked about a mile out onto the salt flat, reaching a point where the early morning sunlight was just starting to creep over the surrounding mountains.

 Devil’s Golf Course was another area on the valley floor made up of salt, but it looked completely different from the salt flats. Here, the salt forms into large, rough, dirty-looking clumps sitting on top of a hard salt layer, creating a jagged, almost otherworldly surface. It’s said that on very hot days you can actually hear the salt crystals popping as they expand in the heat, but we didn’t hear anything during our visit—most likely because we were there early, before the intense midday sun had warmed things up enough.

 At Natural Bridge and Golden Canyon, we took short hikes into the slot-like canyons carved into the desert landscape. The Natural Bridge hike is about a one-third-mile walk up the canyon floor to a stone bridge formation that connects the two canyon walls. The bridge sits roughly 35 feet above the canyon floor and is about 35 feet thick. Unlike the smooth sandstone arches found in Utah, this formation is made of rocky alluvial deposits—rock, gravel, and sediment that washed down from the mountains and were later cemented together. The bridge formed when flash flood waters shifted and temporarily changed the course of erosion, lowering the canyon floor. When water eventually returned to its original path, it carved out the space beneath the bridge, gradually lowering the canyon floor further and leaving the formation suspended above it.

Golden Canyon is an easy to moderate hike that winds through beautiful golden-yellow canyon walls, which is how it gets its name. While the trail continues for a mile or more into the canyon, we were already a few miles into our morning and it was getting later in the day, so we decided to turn around at the half-mile point. Along the way, you can still see remnants of what used to be a road running through the canyon, adding an interesting historical layer to the natural scenery.

 Artists Palette and Twenty Mule Team Canyon are both short, one-way loop drives that wind through rolling canyon hills, offering great views as you twist and weave through the landscape. At Artists Palette, a single scenic viewpoint showcases the striking range of colors in the hillside, created by volcanic deposits rich in different minerals such as iron oxides and chlorite. The result is a vibrant, almost painted-looking landscape that stands out against the surrounding desert.

 Zabriskie Point and Dante’s View both offer incredible vistas overlooking the desert floor and vast salt flats. Dante’s View sits at an elevation of 5,475 feet, and it’s hard to believe that the valley floor far below is actually below sea level. The contrast in elevation and landscape makes the views feel almost surreal, especially when looking out across Death Valley from above.

 Many of the points of interest in Death Valley were also used as filming locations for the original Star Wars trilogy. As a Star Wars fan—and someone who feels it’s practically required since my birthday is on May the 4th—it was fun to recognize some of these familiar landscapes and imagine them as part of a galaxy far, far away.

 Our second day also started early in the morning, with our final destination being the Racetrack Playa in the northern part of the park. Getting there requires a 55-mile stretch on paved road followed by about 30 miles of dirt and gravel road, so it’s definitely a bit of an adventure just to reach it. Right before turning onto the dirt road, we stopped at Ubehebe Crater. The crater is about 600 feet deep and half a mile wide, formed by steam and gas explosions when hot magma rising from below reached groundwater near the surface. The intense heat instantly flashed the water into steam, which expanded rapidly until the pressure was released in a massive explosion. Standing at the rim, it’s hard to imagine the scale and force of the event that created such an enormous crater.

 The Racetrack Playa is one of the park's most fascinating landscapes, home to both the Grandstand—a large island-like outcrop of quartz monzonite rising from the playa—and the famous moving rocks.

The rocks tumble down from the surrounding mountains onto the racetrack playa, a dry lakebed, where they mysteriously move across the flat surface, leaving long trails behind them. For decades, no one knew exactly how the rocks moved, but in 2014 researchers finally solved the mystery. When the playa fills with just the right amount of water and temperatures drop below freezing, a thin sheet of ice forms that is deep enough to float but shallow enough that the rocks still protrude above the surface. As the morning sun warms the ice, it breaks into large floating panels that are pushed by the wind, shoving the rocks across the muddy playa and leaving their distinctive tracks behind. We hiked out to the Grandstand for a panoramic view of the playa, then continued to the southern end where we found several of the famous moving rocks with their trails stretching out behind them. Most of the rocks were surprisingly small, only about the size of my foot.

 After visiting the Racetrack, instead of backtracking the way we came, we continued over the mountain pass on another 30 to 40 miles of rough 4x4 road before finally reaching pavement again. The route took us through a Joshua tree forest and past a small spring-fed oasis where we found a flock of chukars, quail-like birds that seemed completely at home in the desert landscape. The drive itself was an adventure, with spectacular scenery and a true sense of isolation. We spent about seven hours exploring this remote part of Death Valley without seeing another person or even another vehicle. It was one of those rare experiences where you really feel like you have the entire desert to yourself.

 Part of the fun of our travels is getting to the next destination, and because the parks are often so far apart, we frequently split the drive into two days. Our trip to Death Valley was one of those times, and you never know what interesting places you'll discover during an overnight stop. This time we found ourselves in the small town of Tonopah, Nevada, home to the famous Clown Motel and the historic Tonopah Cemetery. The motel fully embraces its clown theme, with clown decorations everywhere, plus a small clown museum and gift shop.

Right next door is the old cemetery, where you can wander among graves dating from 1901 to 1911. In addition to the original headstones, small metal plaques have been added to make the names and dates easier to read. The plaques also list each person's cause of death, which made for a fascinating glimpse into the town's mining history. We read about deaths from mining accidents, stabbings, and suicide, as well as many diseases that are thankfully treatable today.

As we continue our way to the west coast, who knows what other hidden gems and unexpected adventures we'll discover along the way. 

Did you know that of the 63 U.S. National Parks, only three have the word "Great" in their name? On our 2026 summer adventure, we just checked off two of them—Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado and Great Basin National Park in Nevada.

 First up was Great Sand Dunes National Park, and just as the name suggests, it is home to the tallest sand dunes in North America. Nestled against the rugged Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the dunes are formed when sand and sediment are carried by streams into the valley, where the wind picks them up and deposits them against the mountains. The result is a stunning landscape of constantly shifting dunes set against a beautiful mountain backdrop.

One of the park's most popular activities is sand sledding and sandboarding, which of course we had to try. From the parking lot, it's about a half-mile hike across loose sand just to reach the dunes, followed by the climb to the top. I think I was exhausted before I even made it to the top of one of the smaller dunes! Steve opted for the sandboard, which is similar to snowboarding, and managed to make it all the way to the bottom with only a tumble or two. I chose the easier sled, although my first run included an unexpected spin that sent me sliding down backward. We only made a few trips because hiking back up the loose sand at an elevation of 8,200 feet is no easy feat. It was a lot of fun, though, and if you visit, I'd definitely recommend going early in the morning before the sand gets too hot.

 The other park, Great Basin National Park, gets its name from the fact that water in this “basin” has no outlet to the sea. The park itself covers about 120 square miles of the larger 200,000-square-mile Great Basin region and includes a surprising variety of landscapes, from desert floors to alpine peaks and even an underground cavern. While we were there, we did some hiking on the Bristlecone/Glacier Trail, and Steve also made the trek up Wheeler Peak. The Bristlecone Trail is a 1.4-mile one-way hike that leads to a grove of ancient bristlecone pines—remarkable trees that grow at elevations between about 9,500 and 11,000 feet and can live for thousands of years.

From there, we continued another 1.5 to 2 miles, moving from forested trail to rocky boulder fields until we reached the Wheeler Peak Glacier, which is now more often referred to as the Rock Glacier since what you mostly see today is the rocky terminus rather than visible ice.

 One of our favorite things to do in any national park is get off the beaten path, usually by taking our trusty Jeep Wrangler, Cruella, out on 4x4 dirt and gravel roads. In Great Sand Dunes National Park, we drove the Medano Pass Road, a 22-mile route believed to follow the path used by Zebulon Pike during his 1807 exploration of the region. The road climbs over Medano Pass at 10,040 feet and winds through sandy stretches while also crossing Medano Creek nine times along the way. The area is home to bighorn sheep, and we were lucky enough to come across two of them briefly blocking the road. We also spotted a mule deer, a beaver dam, and plenty of birds, including a striking Western Tanager.

While visiting Great Sand Dunes, we spent two evenings driving the dirt roads through the Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge. In the marshy areas, we saw plenty of red-winged blackbirds and swallows, along with a striking yellow-headed blackbird. From the bluff overlook above the river, we were amazed by the sheer number of ducks gathered below, including ruddy ducks, American coots, and gadwalls among many others. We also caught a brief glimpse of two coyotes and even followed a jackrabbit as it darted along the road ahead of us.

 In Great Basin National Park, we headed out on Osceola Road in hopes of finding an old, abandoned mining town. While we did come across a few ruins that turned out to be on private property, we never quite found the town itself. Even so, the drive was still full of interesting discoveries. We found an old cemetery perched on top of a ridge, the remaining evidence of a vertical mine, and even the bones of a long-dead animal, all reminders of the area’s mining history and rugged past.

 Another day, we drove from Great Basin National Park to the small town of Ely, about an hour away. It’s a very cute little town with some good restaurants and a relaxed, friendly feel. Just a short distance outside of town, we discovered Garnet Hill, an area where visitors are allowed to search for and keep garnets. Even though we weren’t prepared with proper digging tools, we decided to give it a try. While we didn’t find any large pieces, we did come across plenty of rocks with small flecks of garnet in them, which we brought back to the RV and broke open with a hammer in hopes of freeing more of the tiny crystals. We didn’t have much luck, but it was still a fun way to spend an afternoon exploring and trying something a little different.

 And so our travels continue as we head west toward many of the National Parks in California, excited for the next stretch of our journey and all the new places still waiting to be explored.

Our National Park quest continued in Mancos, Colorado, where we spent some time exploring Mesa Verde National Park. Unlike many of the parks we've visited so far, Mesa Verde is known more for its rich cultural history than its natural scenery. The park preserves and shares the story of the Ancestral Pueblo people, who built thriving communities on the mesas and within the cliffs of this rugged landscape between about 750 and 1300 AD. While the views across the canyons are beautiful, it's the remarkable cliff dwellings that draw most visitors to the park. 

We started our visit early in the morning as the first rays of sunlight peeked over the mountains, hoping to spot some wildlife at dawn. While we did see a few mule deer, most of the animals we encountered were rabbits and squirrels. Even so, it was wonderfully peaceful to have the park almost entirely to ourselves. We spent the morning driving through the park, frequently stopping to walk short trails to overlooks where we could view cliff dwellings tucked into the canyon walls across from us. The alcoves vary greatly in size, from large complexes like Cliff Palace with dozens of rooms to smaller sites like Step House with only a handful of structures. Some alcoves are tall enough to hold dwellings several stories high. Seeing these communities built into the cliffs is truly impressive, and it's hard not to marvel at the Ancestral Pueblo people who navigated this rugged terrain with ease. It's safe to say that anyone afraid of heights probably wouldn't have felt very comfortable living here.

Most of the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde can only be viewed from overlooks above, and several of the most famous sites can only be visited on ranger-guided tours. Given my sensitivity to heights and the number of ladders involved, Steve took two of those tours on his own: Cliff Palace and Balcony House.

The one cliff dwelling visitors can explore without a tour is Step House. Access is available from late May through October between 9:00 a.m. and 2:45 p.m., when a ranger is stationed at the site. The trail begins at Wetherill Pavilion on Wetherill Mesa and winds down the side of the cliff to the dwelling below. The good news is that it's mostly paved and only about a half mile long. The bad news is that the return trip is uphill the entire way back to the pavilion. Normally the trail forms a loop, but during our visit part of the route beyond Step House was closed, so we had to retrace our steps. What makes Step House especially interesting is that it contains both pithouses dating to around 600 AD and a cliff dwelling from around 1200 AD, allowing visitors to see how life in the area evolved over roughly 700 years of occupation. Visitors can climb a short ladder, walk through part of the dwelling, and take advantage of having a ranger on site to answer questions about the history and archaeology of the area.

Since we were in Mancos for three days, we also found time to do a little exploring outside the park. One afternoon, we took the Jeep up into the mountains on a network of gravel forest roads. The higher elevations provided some amazing views of the surrounding landscape, and we were lucky enough to spot a bit of wildlife along the way, including mule deer and a Dusky Grouse. As we made our way back down the mountain, we came across a herd of cattle grazing beside the road. It was fun to watch them stop and stare at us as we passed by, and the adorable calves were especially fun to see.

Our last day in Mancos took us to Durango, where we boarded the famous narrow-gauge railroad for a day-long adventure. We spent the day riding the train from Durango to Silverton and back, enjoying both the scenery and a step back into Colorado's mining history. The 45-mile rail line was built between 1881 and 1882 by the Denver and Rio Grande Railway under the leadership of General William Jackson Palmer. He chose a narrow-gauge track, with rails only 3 feet apart instead of the standard 4 feet 8½ inches, because it was less expensive to build, could use lighter equipment, and was better suited to the tight curves required in the rugged mountain terrain. Originally, the railroad operated entirely with coal-fired steam locomotives. Today, all of the trains are powered by diesel engines, although a few diesel steam-powered locomotives are still used, helping preserve the feeling of traveling back in time. The journey begins in Durango, nestled in the Animas River Valley, and follows the Animas River north into the San Juan Mountains. One of the most spectacular sections passes through Animas Canyon, where the tracks cling to steep rock walls high above the river below. The train eventually reaches Silverton, a small mining town that flourished during the mining boom of the 1870s through the 1890s. Today, tourism has replaced mining as the town's primary industry, but Silverton still retains much of its historic charm, with many of its old buildings now serving as hotels, restaurants, and shops. The train stops for about two hours, giving passengers enough time to enjoy lunch, browse the shops, and, in our case, finish with an ice cream treat before boarding for the return trip. The entire excursion takes about seven hours, making it a full-day experience, but the incredible mountain scenery and historic train ride make it well worth the time.

Traveling from Carlsbad Caverns to Mesa Verde is a little over nine hours, so we decided to break the drive into two shorter days with a stop in Albuquerque, New Mexico. With one full day to explore the area, we started with a little exercise and headed into the nearby Sandia Mountains for a 5.5-mile hike. It was a gorgeous day, and the small peaks we climbed rewarded us with beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. I also learned an important lesson about paying closer attention to the trail. At one point, I stepped right over a snake stretched across the path without even noticing it. I had no idea it was there until I heard Steve behind me say, “Oh man.” Thankfully, it turned out to be a harmless gopher snake, but it definitely got my heart rate elevated.

For the afternoon, we visited the National Museum of Nuclear Science & History. Since I didn't know much about nuclear science going in, I found the museum surprisingly fascinating. The exhibits cover both the science behind nuclear technology and the human history of the Atomic Age. Everything from how atoms work and the development of atomic theory to displays of military aircraft and mockups of nuclear weapons from the earliest designs to those in use today is represented. The exhibits did a great job of making some very complex topics understandable. The section we found most interesting focused on the Manhattan Project, with displays and information about the scientists, facilities, and events that led to the development of the first atomic bombs and forever changed the course of history.

Now it’s time to get back on the road and continue our summer adventure. With 10 more National Parks still ahead of us this summer, we’re excited to see what new landscapes, wildlife, and experiences await on the journey.

We’re back on the road for our Summer 2026 adventures! This year, our goal is to visit the remaining national parks in the continental U.S. that we haven’t explored yet. After spending some wonderful time with friends in Texas, we made our way to Whites City, New Mexico, to check off the first two parks on this summer’s itinerary—parks number 49 & 50.

 Steve found us the perfect RV basecamp at Camp Washington Ranch, a hidden oasis in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert. The ranch area has a few spring-fed ponds, lush green grass, and beautiful mature trees that seem completely out of place in the desert landscape. With only three RV sites offering partial hookups, it's small and quiet, but the scenery and peaceful atmosphere make it one of the most memorable places we've stayed.

Our first morning had us heading to Carlsbad Caverns National Park, and it became my favorite cave visit. Unlike many caves that can only be visited on a guided tour, Carlsbad allows you to explore at your own pace with a timed entry reservation. Once your entry time arrives, you can either take the elevator down to the Big Room or hike in through the Natural Entrance Trail. We chose the Natural Entrance, a 1.25-mile paved trail that descends about 750 feet through a series of switchbacks.

The path is lined with railings and softly lit, making it easy to follow while still preserving the cave's darker atmosphere. As you make your way down, you'll pass the opening to a cavern where hundreds of thousands of Brazilian free-tailed bats roost. It's mostly hidden in the darkness, but you can definitely smell the guano, a reminder that this incredible cave is also home to a thriving wildlife population. In fact, sections of the trail occasionally are closed for cleanup. The Natural Entrance Trail eventually connects to the famous Big Room loop, and the name is well deserved. The massive chamber covers nearly eight acres, and the loop trail itself is another 1.25 miles. If you hike in through the Natural Entrance and complete the entire Big Room loop, plan on spending about 1½ to 2 hours underground, depending on your pace and how often you stop to admire the incredible rock formations. And yes, if you need a break, there are restrooms, a gift shop, and even a café right inside the cave!

No matter what time you choose to explore the cave, make sure you come back on a clear evening for the Bat Flight Program. A small amphitheater overlooking the Natural Entrance is where rangers gather visitors to watch one of Carlsbad Caverns' most incredible natural events. Be sure to check with the ranger station or the park website for the start time, since it changes with the sunset. The night we visited, the posted time was 7:15pm. The ranger explained that they intentionally list the program 15 minutes early to make sure everyone is seated before the bats emerge, so definitely arrive at the posted time and not later, because you might miss the main event. For those 15 minutes, the ranger was taking questions—just not about bats. She was to start the bat talk at 7:30 but then, at 7:28pm, everything changed. A dark swirl began rising out of the cave entrance. The bats had decided to leave earlier than expected, and the planned talk was instantly forgotten. We sat in silence as hundreds of thousands of bats spiraled upward like a giant black tornado before peeling away into a long stream across the evening sky. The steady flow continued for about 15 minutes, and it was peaceful and surreal to watch. To protect the bats and preserve the experience, the park does not allow photos or videos, and all electronic devices must be turned off. It forces you to  simply be there and take it all in.

Not far from Camp Washington Ranch is Rattlesnake Springs, a lesser-known part of Carlsbad Caverns National Park that isn't located near the main cave entrance. We stumbled across this hidden gem during one of our evening walks since it was only about a mile from our RV. If you drive down Rattlesnake Springs Road, you arrive at a beautiful picnic area shaded by large trees and surrounded by green grass, another unexpected oasis in the middle of the desert. From there, it's about a 10-minute walk along a gravel road to the springs themselves. At the end of the trail is a small spring-fed man-made pond bordered by lush grass. The crystal-clear water is so transparent that you can easily watch fish swimming below the surface. The area is also a haven for birds and butterflies due to the abundance of trees and flowers. Despite its beauty, very few people seem to make the trip out here, making it one of the quietest and most peaceful places we visited. We returned twice to photograph the birds and enjoy the scenery, and both times we had the entire place to ourselves.

The other park we visited while based in Camp Washington was Guadalupe Mountains National Park. We ended up doing three hikes there, plus an unexpected bonus hike at the visitor center. The bonus hike was the Pinery Trail, a short 0.75-mile paved out-and-back trail that leads to the ruins of the old Pinery Station. Normally, we tend to skip these shorter, more crowded trails, but this time we had a good reason to take it easy. As we walked out of the visitor center, a couple of rangers were staring at our Jeep—which was steaming. Uh oh. After a brief moment of panic, we figured out that the coolant we had recently topped off had probably expanded and overflowed as we gained elevation on the drive up the mountain. Thankfully, it didn't seem to be anything serious. So, we took the opportunity to do the short Pinery Trail hike while the Jeep cooled down and the steam disappeared.

Our first real hike in Guadalupe Mountains was the Pratt Cabin Trail in McKittrick Canyon. The hike is just under 5 miles round trip, out and back, following a mostly rocky trail covered with loose stones. The destination is Pratt Cabin, which was built around 1931 by geologist and conservationist Wallace E. Pratt as his family's summer home. Pratt later donated the cabin and roughly 5,000 acres of surrounding land to the National Park Service. While we turned around at the cabin, the trail continues farther into the canyon, leading to the Grotto and eventually the Notch higher up.

Our second hike took us into a completely different environment on the Salt Basin Dunes Trail. Reaching the trailhead required a bit of a drive to the far western side of the park. At first, the landscape looked like the same desert we'd been traveling through, but after a short walk we could see the dunes in the distance—forgetting how far you can see in the desert, they looked much closer than they actually were! After hiking about 1.5 miles, we reached the edge of the dunes and climbed one of the open slopes to find ourselves surrounded by a stunning sea of white sand. From the top, we had amazing views across the desert and spotted several sets of small animal tracks crossing the dunes. These unique dunes are formed when rainwater dissolves limestone in the mountains and carries the minerals into the basin below. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind large salt crystals that are broken down and carried by the wind, eventually forming the dunes. Along the desert trail, we also saw plenty of lizards and even some mule deer tracks.

For our third hike, we tackled the Smith Spring Loop, which begins at the Frijole Ranch Trailhead. Before setting out, we enjoyed a packed lunch at the nice picnic area near the trailhead. The 2.3-mile loop is a bit rocky and climbs uphill to Smith Spring, another beautiful desert oasis tucked into the mountains. We took a short break on a bench by the spring, enjoying the peaceful surroundings before continuing. The loop also passes Frijole Ranch and Manzanita Spring, a small pond-like area with many swallows darting overhead. Depending on which direction you hike the loop, these sights are either near the beginning—as most people experience them—or near the end, which is the route we chose. Once again, most of the wildlife we spotted consisted of lizards, although we were surprised by the variety of species we encountered.

In addition to our time in the parks, we spent some time exploring the Chihuahuan Desert itself. One afternoon, we drove a network of dirt roads for a couple of hours, keeping an eye out for wildlife. We spotted several roadrunners, including one that was busy killing & eating a frog, and a Rio Grande ground squirrel. The highlight, though, came after dark when we ventured into the desert and found several tarantulas. As a PA girl, where giant spiders aren't exactly common, it was pretty amazing to see tarantulas in their natural habitat. I can't say I like spiders but seeing them in the wild was much cooler than seeing them behind glass in a zoo reptile house.

Overall, I'd say our summer is off to a pretty good start. We've already done some great hikes and seen some interesting wildlife. With Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns now checked off the list, we only have 11 more parks to visit on our 2026 adventure. If the rest of the summer is anything like the beginning, we're in for an amazing journey.

Our time in South Africa came to an end as we reluctantly returned our trusty camper. But the adventure was far from over. From Johannesburg, our group boarded a flight bound for Livingstone, Zambia—home to one of the world’s natural wonders: Victoria Falls. Our beautiful hotel was just a short walk from the falls & you could hear the roar of the powerful falls. The setting was peaceful and deeply relaxing. As if that weren’t magical enough, zebras wandered near the pool and a giraffe strolled the grounds.

Our adventure in Zambia began with a relaxing sunset cruise along the Zambezi River, well upstream from the falls. Drifting gently on the water, we spotted wildlife along the banks and watched the sky come alive with the  colors of the setting sun.

The morning we set out for the falls, we were warned to dress to get wet.  A quick bus ride brought us to the path leading to the upper edge. As we walked through the trees, the sound grew louder with every step, building anticipation. Then came our first glimpse from a viewpoint, and it quite literally took our breath away. You could see it, hear it, and feel its immense power all at once. And as if that weren’t enough, the sunshine revealed a stunning rainbow arching across the falls.

As we continued along the path, we moved closer and closer to the falls until we could feel the mist rising up from the gorge. Crossing a bridge over a small side valley, a breeze carried the spray across our path, and suddenly we were walking through a thick, wet fog. At one stretch of the trail, with the trees overhead and the sheer volume of water surging below, it felt like standing in a heavy rainstorm. Our guides weren’t kidding when they told us to prepare to be wet—we were completely soaked.

Getting soaked was absolutely worth it. The falls are truly a sight to behold—the sun casting rainbows through the mist, the thunderous roar of water, and plumes of spray rising high from the gorge. Unlike most waterfalls, you can’t take it all in at once. In many places, you only catch glimpses of the top, as the sheer volume of water creates a dense curtain of vapor. The narrow gorge below funnels that force upward, sending mist soaring into the air. Locally, Victoria Falls is known as Mosi-oa-Tunya -“The Smoke That Thunders,” and after visiting you can understand why as the mist and roar can be seen and hear from a distance.

After our soaking at the falls, we opted for the short walking path back to the hotel. The trail wound quietly through the trees, where we came across two baobab trees—often called “upside-down trees”—and spotted a few playful monkeys along the way.

Later in the day, we took in a completely different perspective with an optional helicopter ride over the falls. Seeing it from the air gave me a much deeper appreciation for its sheer size and shape, as the water plunges into a long, narrow gorge along the Zambezi River. From above, I could even spot the bridge we had walked across earlier, which made me realize just how small a section we’d actually experienced from the ground.

We also took a side trip into Botswana for a guided safari and a cruise in Chobe National Park. Crossing the border was quite an involved process. First, as we approached, the bus stopped and everyone had to step into a shallow pan with a wet mat—a precaution to prevent the spread of foot-and-mouth disease.

Back on the bus, we moved a short distance and disembarked again for a temperature and health check. Next, we arrived at the border building, which had a large lobby. On one side, we went through Zambian exit formalities with a border agent, and on the other, we obtained our entrance into Botswana. Once across, we switched into different vehicles for our safari adventure. Our original bus stayed behind, waiting to take us back to Zambia, where we would repeat the whole process. In Chobe National Park, we encountered the usual wildlife, with elephants dominating the scene—this park is famous for its exceptionally high elephant population. We were also lucky enough to spot a lion with a fresh kill.

During the cruise on the Chobe River, we enjoyed lunch while watching the wildlife as we drifted by. At one magical spot, a large group of elephants had gathered in the water. The older elephants sipped and cooled their feet, while the younger ones splashed and played. I could have watched them frolic in the river for hours.

One final, unforgettable experience was our visit to Chief Mukuni Village, home to about 7,000 Leya people. We were given a guided tour, had the chance to meet residents, and browse their beautiful, handcrafted items. What stood out most were the children—they eagerly followed us through the village, delighted to have their photos taken and even more excited to see the pictures on our phones afterward. Visiting the village was a truly eye-opening experience, offering a glimpse into a way of life that has endured for hundreds of years, rich with tradition, community, and history.

After that, it was truly time to say goodbye. Following a final farewell dinner the night before, we boarded our plane to Johannesburg. That afternoon, there was one last goodbye at the hotel while picking up any left luggage. Some travelers headed back to the airport for their flights home, while others stayed a little longer to savor more time in this beautiful country. We returned to the airport for first a long flight to Newark, followed by a shorter hop to Key West. All told, the total travel time from leaving our hotel in Zambia to arriving home in the Keys was about 38 hours—a very long “day.”

This was truly the trip of a lifetime, and traveling with Fantasy RV was a great way of exploring the country. The memories of breathtaking landscapes, incredible wildlife, and the warm, welcoming people will stay with me forever. And to top it off, the wonderful new friendships we made were the perfect finishing touch.

During our final days in South Africa, we spent time in the granddaddy of all the parks, Kruger. We even had the opportunity to ditch our campers for a few days and sleep in luxury at Buhala Lodge.

When we arrived at the lodge, we parked our campers on the lawn, where they would patiently wait for our return in three days. The lodge itself is stunning, with a veranda and pool overlooking the Crocodile River and the edge of Kruger National Park.

Our room was spacious and tastefully decorated, and while the view was just a fence, the comfort of a real bed more than made up for it.

Our stay at the lodge included several guided safari drives into Kruger National Park, with the Malelane Gate just a short 15-minute drive away. Riding on the main road to the park in open safari vehicles was quite windy and a little chilly.

The safaris took place at different times of day over two days: one at sunrise with a stop for breakfast, an afternoon drive, and a midday outing that included a boxed lunch. Breakfast was served at a picnic area beneath a thatched shelter, where sleeping fruit bats were tucked up in the rafters above us. On the midday safari, we enjoyed lunch on simple benches overlooking the water, watching a few hippos resting lazily in the shallows while we ate. 

The guided safaris were well worth the wind and chill of riding in the open vehicles as we were lucky enough to spot some new animals—a pair of Spotted Hyena and later a magnificent Leopard.

During our time in Kruger, we were lucky enough to check off one of Africa’s most iconic wildlife milestones: spotting the Big Five. This legendary group includes the lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and African Cape buffalo. The term “Big Five” actually dates back to the late 1800s and early 1900s, when big-game hunters used it to describe the five most dangerous animals to hunt on foot. Today the meaning has shifted and is now a badge of honor for travelers and safari enthusiasts, representing unforgettable wildlife encounters rather than conquest.

 The hyenas were resting right beside the road, and up close it was surprising just how fluffy they looked.

The leopard sighting was even more thrilling. We watched as he quietly stalked a small group of Impala, moving low through the grass before settling in to wait for the perfect moment. Before he could pounce, the impalas spotted him. Instead of immediately running, they began sounding the alarm with sharp snorts that rippled through the herd. Realizing his cover had been blown, the leopard finally abandoned the hunt.

 When we weren’t out on safari, we made the most of the lodge’s comforts—sipping wine and cocktails on the veranda while keeping an eye on the wildlife along the Crocodile River. On our very first evening, a small group of African Elephants wandered in and gathered beneath a tree just feet from the veranda railing. Throughout our stay we often spotted elephants, African Buffalo, and Hippopotamus in the distance or along the riverbank.

The setting was incredibly peaceful and relaxing. Gourmet meals were served around large tables, and afternoon tea was enjoyed on the veranda. After days on the road in our camper, it felt like a wonderfully luxurious break. When our time at Buhala Lodge came to an end, it wasn’t the end of our Kruger National Park adventure. We climbed back into our campers and made our way to Skukuza Rest Camp, this time staying inside the park itself, enjoying self-drives to and from camp.

Along the way we spotted many of the same animals we had already seen—though it’s impossible to tire of watching these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. The drive to camp took longer than expected thanks to a couple of classic Kruger roadblocks. First, we encountered an African Elephant blockade, and later a troop of Baboon turned the road into an obstacle course. Out here there’s nothing to do but wait patiently and take it slow as the animals set the pace, and everyone else follows. 

Leaving camp, we took a few small loops past nearby watering holes and were rewarded with a lively scene of Hippopotamus playing and squabbling in the water —one last memorable wildlife moment before continuing our journey out of Kruger National Park.

After Kruger, we had another self-drive experience ahead of us in Pilanesberg Game Reserve. We encountered many of the same incredible animals again, and honestly, it never gets old. Every sighting feels just as exciting as the first. This time, though, we had a brand-new highlight: a cheetah. At first, we couldn’t quite figure out what he was up to. He kept sniffing a road marker before suddenly leaping up onto it.  As we watched him slip down into the grass, he startled a rabbit and quickly gave chase, successfully catching it. That’s when we realized we had just witnessed a hunt unfold right in front of us.

Cheetahs often use elevated vantage points like termite mounds to scan for prey. In this case, the road marker served the same purpose—a clever and fascinating adaptation.

One other experience before our time in South Africa: ended: a walk with lions. As a group, we visited Colin’s Horseback Africa, where we had the chance to walk alongside lion cubs in small groups of about 15–16 people. The cubs were only 4–5 months old—absolutely adorable, but already full of energy. They bounded ahead of us, pouncing and chasing each other like oversized house cats, then darted back through the group without a care in the world. At one point, one of them ran straight between my legs—definitely a moment I won’t forget (and luckily, I stayed on my feet!).

In addition to the walk, we also got to pet tiny 2-week-old cubs and observe both younger and older lions up close. It was such a unique experience—very different from seeing them in the wild.

While we enjoyed experiencing the culture, we were excited to return to the wildlife. Ahead of us were more self-drive safari adventures, a river cruise, and even a hike—each offering another chance to connect with the incredible animals and landscapes that had drawn us there in the first place.

Our next adventure was a hike. While researching our driving route, Steve discovered a small park called Bisley Valley Nature Reserve. Located just about 7 km from Pietermaritzburg, the 865-acre reserve is fully fenced and free of predators. What it does have, though, are giraffes, zebras, impalas, and a wide variety of birdlife. With several hiking trails and a couple of bird blinds scattered throughout the reserve, it was a fun place to explore on foot. We didn’t spot many birds during our walk—aside from some bright red bishops near a small pond—but we could certainly hear them calling from the trees all around us.

The larger wildlife made up for it. We saw several giraffes and zebras along the trails, and a couple of the giraffes seemed especially interested in us. Every so often we’d notice their heads popping up above the trees, watching us. Each time they appeared, they seemed just a little closer. Eventually one of them stepped right out onto the path, studying us while slowly inching forward. He was clearly curious—but he also got a bit closer than we were comfortable with. Standing there on the ground, without a vehicle, you gain a new appreciation for just how incredibly tall these animals are.

Our cruise took us onto the waters of the St Lucia Estuary. It is home to roughly 1,200 Nile Crocodile and nearly 800 Hippopotamus—about one-third of the world’s hippo population. Hippos here are famous for occasionally wandering through the nearby town of St Lucia at night, and the many warning signs posted around town make it clear this is something locals take seriously. When we arrived that evening, it was raining,, so instead of heading into town we stayed close to the campground and grabbed dinner nearby.

Thankfully, blue skies greeted us in the morning as we boarded our cruise boat and set off along the estuary. With breakfast in hand, we slowly drifted across the water, scanning the surface for hippos and crocodiles. Since hippos spend most of their daytime hours resting in the water—leaving the river mainly at night to graze—you rarely see their full bodies. Instead, the river surface is dotted with the tops of their heads, quietly bobbing up and down as they surface for air. Every so often one would lift a little higher, or open its mouth in a massive yawn, giving us a much better look at these enormous animals.

Our self-drive safaris took us through Hluhluwe–Imfolozi Park as we traveled to and from our campground. Once two separate reserves, the park now forms a single protected area of about 960 square kilometers (370 square miles) of rolling hills and valleys. The Imfolozi section was once believed to be a royal hunting ground during the reign of Shaka Zulu. Today, the combined reserve is recognized as the oldest nature reserve in Africa. On our drive into camp through the Imfolozi side, we spotted many familiar safari favorites—Warthog, Impala, Giraffe, Zebra, and Cape Buffalo. But there was one animal we were especially hoping to see: the White Rhinoceros. Before leaving the park, we decided to take one final small loop. That decision paid off. Suddenly, right in front of us, three rhinos calmly walked across the road. We stopped the car and enjoyed the presence of these magnificent animals.

The next morning, as we left camp, we drove through the Hluhluwe section of Hluhluwe–Imfolozi Park. This part of the park is more mountainous and rugged. Once again, we were treated to a wonderful variety of wildlife. Along with many of the familiar safari animals—like Impala, Zebra, and Giraffe—we also spotted some Greater Kudu and Nyala. One particularly memorable sight was a White Rhinoceros lounging contentedly in a muddy waterhole, enjoying what looked like the perfect morning spa treatment. 

We had the opportunity to cross the border into Eswatini (formerly known as Swaziland) in our campers for a one-night stay at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. While we didn’t go on a formal safari here, our campground was located inside the sanctuary, so we still spotted a few animals as we made our way to our campsite.

Crossing the border itself was a unique experience for us. First, we stopped on the South Africa side, where we parked and entered a small building to receive an exit stamp in our passports. After driving through the border crossing, we parked again and entered another building—this time on the Eswatini side—to receive our entry stamp into the new country. When it was time to return, the process was simply repeated in reverse.

Even without a safari, we had two memorable shopping stops: Swazi Candles and Swazi Glass.

At Swazi Candles, we found beautifully handmade candles created by skilled local artisans. Each candle is colorful and intricately patterned using traditional techniques. While they look like decorative art pieces, they are fully functional candles. The surrounding area also features several small shops selling locally made crafts, making it a fun place to browse.

Our visit to Swazi Glass was just as fascinating. This workshop is famous for its handcrafted glass pieces, made using recycled materials and traditional glass-blowing techniques, and every piece is individually crafted, making each one unique. Visitors can walk along a balcony that overlooks the production floor, where we watched the artisans carefully shaping the molten glass. It was incredible to see their skill up close—and to feel the intense heat from the furnaces while they worked.

Just like at the candle market, there were also several artisan shops on the grounds, giving us plenty of opportunities to explore and pick up a few special souvenirs.

Steve and I dreamed about South Africa for the wildlife and safaris, but we ended up experiencing some great local culture as well. A few of the cultural stops were organized as part of our group tour, while others were places our guide suggested that we checked out on our own.

Our first group cultural experience took place while we were staying in Golden Gate Highlands National Park.

Just up the road from our camp was the Basotho Cultural Village. The site includes a rest camp designed to resemble an 18th-century Sotho village, along with replica homesteads that represent different periods from the 16th century to the present day. As we toured the village, we learned about traditional Basotho clothing, customs, and daily life—and even had the chance to sample some local beer and foods.

While in Golden Gate Highlands National Park, we also visited the brand-new Kgodumodumo Dinosaur Interpretation Centre. The museum is built on a site where important fossil discoveries have been made, including dinosaurs from the Late Triassic period. One of the finds in the park was seven fossilized dinosaur eggs that were uncovered during road construction. The eggs belonged to Massospondylus, a long-necked dinosaur that lived around 190 million years ago. Another major discovery in the area was the fossil of a massive plant-eating dinosaur called Ledumahadi mafube. This giant weighed about 12 tons—roughly twice the size of a large African elephant. It was amazing to learn about creatures that lived long before humans.

Our second organized cultural experience took place at PheZulu in Durban, where we watched a performance by Zulu dancers. The show was impressive, with performers dressed in traditional attire demonstrating their incredible skill, grace, and agility. Adding to the magic of the moment was the breathtaking backdrop overlooking the stunning Valley of a Thousand Hills.

On travel days, we often have the freedom to make a few stops along the way. Our group leaders usually offer suggestions, and one such stop was the Boer War Museum in Bloemfontein. Although I had heard of the Boer War before, I didn’t actually know much about it. The Boer War was fought from 1899 to 1902 between the British Empire and the Boer republics—the South African Republic and the Orange Free State. The conflict grew largely out of British imperial ambitions and the discovery of gold in Boer-controlled territories, which intensified the struggle for power, control, and independence in the region.

At the museum, we began by watching an informative video that provided helpful historical context. Afterward, we wandered through the exhibits, taking in artifacts from the era and reading the informative plaques that explained the events and personal stories connected to the war. It was a fascinating and educational stop.

Another cultural stop recommended during one of our travel days was the Nelson Mandela Capture Site in Howick. This location includes both a museum and a sculpture marking the place where Nelson Mandela was arrested in 1962. The museum tells the story of Mandela’s life and the long struggle against apartheid, while also providing broader context about South Africa’s apartheid era. Through multimedia displays, photographs, and historical artifacts, the exhibits walk visitors through the challenges, sacrifices, and determination that shaped the movement for equality and justice. From the museum, it’s a short walk along a pathway to the actual capture site. There, a remarkable sculpture stands as both a memorial and a work of art. The installation is made up of 50 steel columns ranging from six to ten meters tall. At first glance, the columns appear abstract, but when viewed from a specific vantage point along the path, they come together to form the image of Nelson Mandela’s face. The sculpture stands at the exact location where Mandela was captured.

On one of our many driving days, we made a stop at Howick Falls. At first glance, it seemed like a simple scenic viewpoint—and it certainly delivered on that. The falls are strikingly beautiful, with water plunging dramatically into the gorge below. But what made the stop memorable wasn’t just the view. Above the falls, along the river, we noticed a group of women carefully washing clothes in the water. You would assume they are doing laundry for their own families, but for many of them it’s actually a business. Each day they carry loads of laundry down to the river and wash it by hand, using the flowing water as their workspace. Moments like that reminded us that travel isn’t only about the landscapes you see, but also the lives quietly unfolding around them.

While the wildlife and safari experiences were still the highlight of the trip for me, it was also fascinating to learn more about the history of this remarkable country. 

On day 10 of our trip, we really started diving into the wildlife side of things. After leaving Tsitsikamma, we made our way to Addo Elephant National Park. The park is huge—covering about 633 square miles—which makes it the third-largest national park in South Africa. Only Kruger National Park and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park are bigger. Needless to say, we were pretty excited to finally get into proper wildlife territory and see what animals we might spot. We spent three nights in the campground at Addo Elephant National Park, giving us lots of time to explore. And honestly, I could have easily stayed longer.

Most of our time was spent doing self-drive safaris, which felt a little funny at first in our big white campers bouncing along the dirt roads. But it quickly became one of the highlights of the trip. Everywhere we looked there seemed to be animals. We saw zebras grazing in the grass, warthogs wandering around, little mongooses and meerkats popping up, and of course the stars of the park—the elephants.

Seeing the elephants up close is something that really takes your breath away. Their size is incredible. A lot of times we would turn off the engine and just sit quietly, watching and listening. In the stillness you could hear them pulling up grass to eat or snapping branches as they moved through the brush.

One time a large herd suddenly came out of the bush, and before we knew it we were completely surrounded. It was exhilarating being that close. The larger elephants formed a protective circle around the tiny babies as they crossed the road—most of them right in front of us, with a few passing behind the camper. One elephant walked so close to our window I swear I could have reached out and touched it. I think it was somewhere in those moments, sitting quietly among them, that I completely fell in love with elephants.

We also saw a wide variety of birds, many so different from what we see in the US, with long tail feathers and bright colors.

Another big highlight of our self-drive safari in Addo Elephant National Park was getting into the park right when the gates opened at 5:30 a.m. Driving in at that hour, with the sun rising, was incredibly peaceful. The park was quiet and still, and the soft morning light made everything feel a little magical. Not long after entering, we came across something really special—a lioness with her four cubs. She was sitting and staring at us at first, but when it became clear we weren’t a threat, the five of them calmly trotted down the road. We slowly rolled along a good distance back, trying not to disturb them.

After a short while they stopped at a small puddle of water just off the side of the road. Once again we turned off the engine and just sat quietly, taking it all in. We were so close we could actually hear the lioness drinking as she lapped up the water. The cubs gathered around too, though one of them clearly had other ideas. Instead of drinking, the little guy decided it was playtime and started batting and biting at his mom’s tail while she tried to drink. It was one of those moments that felt completely surreal watching this wild little family going about their morning just a few feet away from us.

We also made time for a couple of guided tours while we were in Addo Elephant National Park. One was a night drive that we signed up for ourselves, and the other was a mid-morning tour that was included with our group. The park actually offers several options throughout the day, including sunset and night drives, though we skipped the sunset one. The guided drives were great because they gave us a chance to learn more about the animals and their habitats, and the guides have an incredible ability to spot things you would probably drive right past on your own.

On the night drive, the very first place the guide took us was a lookout point. At first we were thinking, how are we going to see anything up here in the dark? Earlier that afternoon we had actually stopped there ourselves and gotten out of the camper for a look around—there are signs that say you can exit your vehicle “at your own risk.” Well… it turns out that spot is where a different lioness and her one cub like to sleep. Sure enough, there they were. The guide used a spotlight so we could see them, and the lioness didn’t seem bothered at all. Her cub, on the other hand, clearly wasn’t a fan of the light and kept trying to wake mom up. She barely reacted—just stretched out a paw and gently held him down, clearly just wanting to go back to sleep.

 The night safari also gave us the chance to spot a few creatures we hadn’t seen during the day. Once the sun goes down, a whole different group of animals starts to come out. With the help of the guide’s spotlight, we were able to see things like a scrub hare, a spring hare, and even an owl quietly hunting in the dark. It was a completely different experience from the daytime drives and a fun reminder that the park is just as active at night as it is during the day. 

In addition to doing our own self-drives and guided safaris in Addo Elephant Park, our group also visited a private reserve called Scotia Safari Game Reserve. We split up into smaller groups of about eight people and piled into safari trucks to head out for more animal spotting. While we saw plenty of wildlife in Addo, the private reserve gave us a chance to see a few animals we hadn’t come across yet, including giraffes, waterbuck, and white rhinos. After the safari drives, the evening wrapped up with a braai, a traditional South African barbecue that’s about much more than just grilling meat. It’s really a social gathering—people hanging out around the fire, sharing food, drinks, and good conversation. For dinner they served grilled kudu, which I had never tried before. It turned out to be incredibly tender and absolutely delicious.

Sadly, our time in Addo Elephant National Park eventually came to an end. After a few incredible days surrounded by wildlife, we packed up the campers and hit the road again. Our next stop was Gariep Dam, where we stayed at Gariep Dam Forever Resort. The campground sits right by the water and is part of the largest reservoir in South Africa, making for a pretty beautiful place to park the campers and relax after all the excitement of safari life.

Thankfully, we did get one more safari in the travel, as on the way to Gariep Dam, we were able to stop at Mountain Zebra National Park, a stunning and relatively quiet wildlife park. The park was originally established to help in the conservation of the Cape mountain zebra, which had been hunted almost to extinction. Today their numbers have rebounded, and the park is a great place to see these iconic animals up close. Most the zebras we see in the other parks are plains zebras, which have a fainter brown stripe between the black stripes. Beyond the zebras, the park is home to a variety of wildlife not just the cape mountain zebra, and we saw many including cape buffalo, springbok, blesbok, wildebeest, hartebeest, rock monitor, and various bird, with the best sighting being a pin-tailed whydah that almost looks like a large dragonfly in flight.

One of the highlights for me was the drive from one camp to the other, which took us right through the town of Cradock—a place that had recently come to life for me in a book I’d read. The town itself is charming, with a mix of Cape Dutch and Victorian-style buildings, many featuring crisp whitewashed walls. As we drove through, it was buzzing with activity—people moving about, shops opening, and daily life in full swing. On the outskirts, we passed through the townships, densely populated areas historically created under apartheid to segregate non-white communities. Here, housing ranges from modest brick homes to corrugated metal shacks. Despite the economic challenges, these communities are full of resilience, rich cultural expression, and a strong sense of community, which was truly striking to witness firsthand.

After we finish feeding the elephants on Monday morning, we head back out on the road to the next campground. On these travel days, everyone travels at their own pace. One of the things everyone appreciates most about this journey is the freedom it offers. There’s no convoy pressure, no rush to keep up. Each person travels at their own pace. The WagonMasters do give us insights and suggestions, but it really is up to each individual where they want to stop and what they want to do. Only requirement is to get to your campsite on time.

One of the suggestions for today was Monkeyland — and that sounded like a pretty great plan, so off we went. Getting there, though? That was a bit of an adventure. Between road construction and traffic delays, we were creeping along, trying to keep an eye out for our turn. Somewhere in all the construction, signs, and slow-moving cars… we completely missed it. Oops. No big deal — we’d just turn around. Well. The first chance to turn around happened to be after a toll booth. So we paid the toll. And then, after turning around… we paid it again. Apparently, that little detour came with a price tag. Back through the construction. Back through the traffic. This time, we were determined not to miss the turn — and thankfully, we didn’t. We wound our way down a narrow road that eventually opened up into a parking lot that was already pretty full. We could see several of our fellow campers parked, which at least reassured us we were in the right place. An attendant came over to help guide us into a spot. Unfortunately, the only space available was under a tree with some very low branches — and if you know us, you know low branches and our rig are not the best combination. After a few attempts and a lot of careful maneuvering, it was clear it just wasn’t going to work. Steve finally waved it off and said, “Forget it.” So, after toll booths, traffic, construction, and a near run-in with some tree limbs… we left.

We make our way back through the construction zone (again), hand over money at the toll booth (again), and finally point ourselves in the right direction. By this time, Steve’s frustration level is definitely climbing. Missed turns, traffic, tolls — it had been that kind of morning. So naturally, the obvious solution? Jump off a bridge.

As we continue our journey, the road carries us across the iconic Bloukrans Bridge — the highest bridge in Africa and a true marvel of engineering. Suspended high above the dramatic gorge below, the bridge is famous not just for its height, but for the adrenaline-pumping activities on offer — the most daring of which is bungee jumping. Of course, Steve decided he had to do it.

With barely a flicker of hesitation, he signed up, harnessed in, and prepared to leap into the void. Later, he described it as an incredible thrill — exhilarating, unforgettable, and absolutely worth it. Meanwhile, I experienced the adventure in a slightly different way. Armed with a healthy fear of heights, I positioned myself at the viewpoint at the top edge of the gorge.. From where I stood, the jumpers were nothing more than tiny specks. Still, thanks to Steve’s bright blue shirt, I could just make him out. Somehow, between nerves and shaky hands, I even managed to capture the whole thing on video. Needless to say, Steve had bragging rights at camp that night.

The campground for the night, Storms River mouth rest camp at Tsitsikamma National park, is perched on a rugged bluff above the Indian Ocean. It is a campsite with a view you’ll never forget. From the moment you arrive, the drama of the coastline captures your attention — endless blue horizons, rolling swells, and waves crashing powerfully against the rocks below.

There’s something incredibly calming about being here. As the sun dips lower, the ocean seems to shift through shades of silver and deep blue, and the rhythmic sound of the surf becomes the soundtrack to your evening. Sitting back at camp, breathing in the salty air, and enjoying the sunset.

Tuesday morning greeted us with another spectacular show — this time, the sunrise. The horizon slowly shifted from deep indigo to soft shades of orange and gold, as the first light spilled across the ocean and lit up the rugged coastline.

I wasn’t alone in soaking it all in. Three wonderful women from our travel group joined me, and together we shared a peaceful start to the day. Wrapped in the quiet stillness of early morning, we sipped our coffee, watched the sky come alive, and let the calmness of the moment settle in.

The rest of the day, however, was anything but calm and relaxing. Our peaceful morning quickly gave way to adrenaline as we geared up for our next adventure — zip lining.

Our course sent us soaring back and forth across a breathtaking gorge on eight separate lines, gliding high above the treetops and even over a small waterfall cascading below. It was equal parts exhilarating and terrifying. As someone who’s not exactly fond of heights, my nerves were in full swing at the start. My heart pounded as I stepped off that first platform.

But something amazing happened after the first couple of runs. The fear slowly gave way to excitement, and I found myself lifting my head to actually take in the views and enjoy the thrill.

On our way back to camp to get ready for the next adventure, Steve and I decided to make a quick little detour to see the Big Tree. A short walk through the forest and across boardwalk brings you to this giant Yellowwood tree, and it is seriously impressive. It stands about 36.6 meters (120 feet) tall, with a massive girth of 8.2 meters (27 feet) at its widest point. It’s estimated to be between 600 and 800 years old. Just imagine the history this tree has quietly witnessed over the centuries.

It’s also pretty special because the Yellowwood is the national tree of South Africa. Standing there beneath its towering branches, you can’t help but feel tiny — and a little in awe.

Next up on our adventure-packed day? Kayaking!

After squeezing into our gear and climbing into our two-person kayaks, our guides led us out across a stretch of open water on the Indian Ocean. The waves were a little choppy (okay, more than a little), so when we finally turned into the entrance of Storms River Gorge, it felt like we’d paddled straight into a secret world.

The water in the gorge a deep, almost black color thanks to tannins from the forest. It looks mysterious, but it’s perfectly natural. Towering rock walls rise up on both sides, with little caves tucked here and there. Compared to the rolling ocean, it was unbelievably calm and peaceful. You could actually hear yourself think again

About halfway in, we got to switch things up. The guides handed out bright red lilos—basically big floaty mats that you lie on your stomach and paddle with your hands. Sounds relaxing, right? The real workout is holding your head up high enough to see where you’re going! Still, it was such a fun change of pace as we drifted even deeper into the gorge before eventually heading back.

And just when I thought the adventure portion of the day might be winding down… nope. Cliff jumping.

Normally, this would be an automatic “absolutely not” from me. But for whatever reason, standing there in that moment, I felt like I could do it—and maybe even needed to. With help from our guide, we climbed up onto the rocks. The guys went first, jumping from the higher 6-meter (19½ feet) ledge. Then it was our turn from the 3-meter (about 13 feet) ledge.

The walk to the edge was slippery, my heart was pounding, and then the guide counted down: “3… 2… 1… jump!”

The water was cold, shocking, and completely refreshing. And honestly? I was so proud of myself. There’s something really empowering about saying yes to something you usually say no to.

After that, it was back into the kayaks to paddle out of the gorge and across the open water again. By now it had started raining—but we were already soaked, so what did it matter?

To top it all off, I was wearing my Penn State hat, and one of the guides who held it during my jump, read it out loud. Naturally, I took the opportunity to teach him the classic “We are… Penn State!” cheer. We ended up doing it together back at the kayak stand, laughing like we’d known each other for years.

Honestly, it was the perfect ending to an already awesome, adventure-filled day.

Sunday morning, after everyone had finished up their coffee and breakfast at their campers, we hit the road together—more or less as a convoy—heading out to our first stop of the day: Cango Caves near Oudtshoorn.

We’re treated to a 90-minute guided walk through the cave, and it’s both beautiful and fascinating. The pathways are wide, with well-lit stairs that make it easy to explore at a relaxed pace. What really stands out is how different it feels compared to most caves I’ve visited. It’s far more spacious, and surprisingly warm inside—quite the contrast to the cool, damp air you usually expect underground. Along the way, we learn about the incredible formations surrounding us and the slow, natural processes that shaped them over time.

From the cave, we more or less travel in a little convoy to the Safari Ostrich Farm, just 30 minutes away. When we arrive, everyone gets handed a small plastic bucket filled with pellets—ostrich snacks for the feeding session.

Our guide loads us onto trams pulled by a tractor, and we head out into the fields where the ostriches roam. The moment they spot the tram, they come running. Clearly, they know exactly what’s in those buckets. We hold our buckets out as the ostriches trot up alongside us. They’re enthusiastic eaters and not exactly neat about it. Their long necks bob in and out of the buckets, and pellets go flying everywhere. I’m pretty sure half of mine ended up scattered across the tram floor. One important tip: hold on tight. They’re strong and surprisingly bold, and they’ll snatch the whole bucket right out of your hands if you’re not careful. A couple of people learned that the hard way and watched their buckets disappear in a flash.

After climbing off the tram, we continue the tour on foot, wandering between a series of pens that house emus, full-grown ostriches, and a few adorable baby ostriches. Seeing them up close gives you a whole new appreciation for just how big these birds really are—especially when you’re standing only a few feet away.

We gather together for a short talk where our guide shares more about ostriches and their surprisingly fascinating biology. One of the highlights is a demonstration of just how strong their eggshells are. To prove the point, someone from our group carefully stands on a cluster of eggs without cracking them. It’s impressive to see firsthand just how durable they are. From there, we head into one of the buildings for a deeper dive into all things ostrich. We learn about their breeding process, how their feathers are used, and how their skin is turned into leather. It’s interesting to discover how many different industries rely on these birds. By the end of the tour, it’s clear there’s a lot more to ostriches than just their size and speed.

We wrap up our time at the farm with a relaxed lunch in a beautiful outdoor setting. Long tables & fresh air make it the perfect spot to sit back after the tour. Since we’re at an ostrich farm, it’s only fitting that ostrich is on the menu. Lunch features an ostrich steak and sausage, both surprisingly delicious. The meal is rounded out with a hearty lentil soup, a crispy corn fritter that reminds me of a hush puppy, and a scoop of pasta salad. It’s a well-balanced spread and definitely satisfying after a busy morning. With full bellies and no complaints, we make a quick stop at the farm shop to pick up a few ostrich-themed products before piling back in and heading down the road to our next stop.

A small navigational mishap adds an extra 70 kilometers to our drive when we miss a turn on the way out of Oudtshoorn. No big deal, though. The countryside is beautiful, and the unexpected detour just gives us a little more time to take it all in. With Google’s help, we eventually get ourselves pointed in the right direction. We pull into the campground, Woodbourne Holiday resort in Knysna,  just in time for the next briefing—and surprisingly, we aren’t even the last to arrive. The setting is stunning once again, surrounded by nature. As a bonus, there’s even an owl nesting right in the campground, which makes the place feel even more special. Not a bad spot to end the day.

Monday morning comes with another early start. We’re pulling out of the campsite at 7 a.m. sharp, headed for an organized stop at Knysna Elephant Park. Our visit begins with a short video and a safety briefing. One rule in particular stands out: don’t bend down. Apparently, elephants interpret that posture as a threat since many predators crouch before they attack. It’s a simple instruction, but one that makes you very aware you’re about to stand face-to-face with some very large animals. We’re handed buckets again—this time filled with fruits and vegetables—and climb aboard another tractor-pulled tram that takes us out into the field.

There are five female elephants in this group. With the help of the guides, they walk over to a low railing and line up behind it. Clearly, they’ve done this before. On the other side, we form our own line. One by one, we step forward holding out a piece of fruit or vegetable flat in the palm of our hand. Each elephant reaches out with her trunk to take the food. You can feel the rough texture of their skin, the strength and precision in the trunk, and occasionally a puff of warm breath as they grab their snack.

To top it all off, the guides bring three of the elephants out from behind the railing so we can get even closer. One by one, we step up for photos, standing beside these massive, gentle animals. Being that close—without the barrier—makes the experience feel even more surreal. It’s the kind of moment that calls for a camera, not just for the picture, but to help remember what it felt like to stand next to something so powerful and calm at the same time. It’s an incredible experience—intimate, humbling, and absolutely worth the early wake-up call.

Finally, the big day is here — camper pickup day! Each couple gets their own Class C RV, with 16 of us in total. When we arrive at the rental company, it’s pure organized chaos. Every couple needs a full walkthrough of their camper, there’s paperwork to sign, questions to ask, and somehow, we all have to squeeze our luggage and groceries into every available cupboard and cubby. It’s a bit of a circus — but an excited one. Then it’s time to hit the road. Two important reminders:

1.    Drive on the left.

2.    Don’t blindly follow the camper in front of you unless you’re absolutely sure they know where they’re going

Steve takes the wheel and nails the “drive on the left” rule like a pro. Unfortunately, we’re a little too trusting with rule number two. We faithfully follow the camper ahead… and promptly miss our very first turn. Instead of a smooth departure, we kick things off with a scenic (and completely unplanned) little detour. And just like that, the adventure officially begins!

Our first official stop is the grocery store, because priorities. We need supplies to get us through the next few days, and honestly, grocery shopping in another country is one of my favorite parts of traveling. There’s something fun about wandering the aisles and spotting familiar brands sitting next to things you’ve never seen before. Some items look the same but go by totally different names—like ketchup, which here is called tomato sauce. Little differences like that make it feel like a mini treasure hunt. We fill our basket with food, a few camper essentials, and of course some wine, beer and bourbon for good measure. Once everything is strategically crammed into cupboards and the tiny RV fridge, we hit the road again for another 72 kilometers—yes, kilometers, not miles—toward our campsite at Onrus Caravan Park in Hermanus, and just like that, the real road trip vibes start kicking in.

The drive is absolutely beautiful as we wind our way through the mountains, and by chance a few of us end up traveling together, which feels comforting at first. That is, until a local in a box truck seems to decide our little convoy is a good target. He starts swerving erratically, cutting some of us off and nearly forcing one or two campers off the road (including us). The situation escalates when he actually follows us into the campground and claims that someone in our group damaged his mirror. Thankfully, when our group leader calmly suggests calling the police, he quickly backs off and drives away. It is definitely a stressful start to our first day behind the wheel, but the evening redeems it. We settle into the peaceful campsite, soak in the beautiful scenery, stroll over for views of the water, and eventually head into town for a lovely, well-earned dinner.

It rains through the night and is still drizzling when we wake up, and the first sign of trouble comes the moment we open the camper door as water pours off the roof and instantly creates a puddle on our indoor step. Everything feels damp and gray as we start the day, and even our daily briefing, held under a grove of trees for some shelter, offers little protection from the steady drizzle. Despite our best efforts to huddle close and keep things covered, all of our carefully organized paperwork ends up getting wet, making for a soggy and slightly chaotic start to the morning.

Off we go to our next campsite, with the WagonMasters typically heading out first and letting everyone know during the morning briefing what time they plan to depart. The rest of us are free to leave at our own pace, as long as we allow enough time to reach the next group stop, and we are always encouraged to pull over for anything interesting we spot along the way, often with a few favorite suggestions shared in advance. We enjoy a leisurely start to the morning with a proper cup of coffee—thanks to Kay for lending us a French press—before getting back on the road.

Thankfully, today’s drive is far less dramatic, with no rogue drivers in sight. Our first stop, somewhat amusingly, is a mall with a grocery store so we can pick up all the items we quickly realized we needed but forgot.

The route takes us through beautiful mountains and stretches of farmland, and along the way we notice signs warning of wildlife. We are lucky enough to spot small antelope in the distance, a few ostriches, and even baboons, including a mother carrying a tiny one on her back.

We also make our first fuel stop, where a very friendly attendant welcomes us to South Africa; here you do not pump your own fuel, as the attendant handles it for you, often washing the windshield and even checking under the hood if you ask.

Our destination is the coastal town of L'Agulhas, and as we enter town we continue straight through to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of South Africa where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans officially meet. It is rainy and windy when we arrive, so we decide to warm up first with some ramen in the camper, watching the weather do its thing outside. By the time we finish eating, the sun begins to poke through the clouds, so we bundle up and head down to the water’s edge for a couple of photos by the famous plaque before carefully climbing over the rocks to dip our fingers first into the Atlantic and then into the Indian Ocean.

Perched on a small hill above us is the historic Cape Agulhas Lighthouse, which is open to visitors, so we head inside and begin climbing the steep, ladder-like steps. By the second set my fear of heights starts to kick in, and I decide to wait on a landing while Steve continues up the remaining ladders—five in total—to reach the top, where a narrow walkway offers sweeping views over the oceans and the surrounding town. With the lighthouse conquered, we make our way to the campground, settle into our spot for the night, and call it another full day of adventure.

That evening our WagonMasters host a wine and cheese social beside their camper, but Mother Nature has other plans and sends a steady rain, so a handful of us huddle under the awning until the worst passes and then linger a bit longer to keep the conversation going. The next morning we are on the move again, with many of us making an early stop at Kapula Candles, a charming shop set inside a quaint old barn and filled with beautifully handcrafted, hand-painted candles, ceramics, and other local treasures.

 After a quick round of shopping, we head back out on the road toward Bontebok National Park, where a self-drive dirt loop takes about two hours if you include plenty of photo stops. We navigate the loop in our camper and are rewarded with sightings of bonteboks, red hartebeest, Plains zebras, a few fascinating insects, and more birds than we can properly identify, and at one point we even spot another camper from our group, who sees us as well and gives us a cheerful shout, providing the perfect excuse to test out our walkie-talkie radios in the wild.

Back on the road, our next bit of adventure takes us through Tradouw Pass, a twisting, winding stretch of mountain road that keeps both hands firmly on the wheel, and I am more than happy to let Steve handle the driving.

Once we emerge from the pass, we roll into the small town of Barrydale, which has a nostalgic feel reminiscent of Route 66 back in the States, complete with quirky stops and roadside charm. We settle in for lunch at Diesel & Crème, where we are served a delicious meal of ostrich burger, crème soda, and an over-the-top milkshake that perfectly matches the town’s retro vibe.

From there we continue on to De Hoek Mountain Resort in Oudtshoorn, where our campsite is tucked beneath a tree filled with beautifully intricate woven nests that sway gently overhead. After three days on the road in the camper, everything is finally starting to feel comfortable and familiar, and with the early miles behind us, we are excited and ready for whatever the next part of this adventure has in store.

After three absolutely wonderful, fun-filled days with our friend, it was time to meet up with the rest of our RV crew. The tour officially kicks off in Cape Town, so we lucked out with a couple more nights in a comfy hotel before camper life begins. Not a bad way to ease into adventure! 

We kicked things off with the optional city history walking tour — which turned out to be a great way to meet more of our fellow travelers. Nothing like a little sightseeing to break the ice! We learned a ton about Cape Town’s history, stepped inside two beautiful old churches, and wandered through the colorful Bo-Kaap neighborhood. Bo-Kaap is famous for its bright, candy-colored houses and cobblestone streets. It’s actually the oldest surviving residential neighborhood in Cape Town and has the largest collection of pre-1850 architecture in all of South Africa. Walking through it felt like stepping into a postcard.

One of the sweetest surprises? A local vendor invited us to watch her cook and treated us to a koeksister — a traditional South African sweet that’s kind of like a donut, but braided, syrupy, and spiced just a little differently. Sticky fingers, happy hearts!

That afternoon, the tour officially began with orientation. We were handed packets, maps, and name tags — all the “this is really happening” essentials. We also met our WagonMasters (aka fearless leaders), Nick and Kay, a wonderful couple who instantly made us feel like we were in great hands.

After a solid night’s sleep, we were ready for two full days exploring the Cape Town area. First up was a scenic bus ride down to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point. The views along the way were absolutely stunning — dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, the whole postcard-perfect scene. Sadly, the funicular wasn’t running that day, so no easy ride to the top. But honestly, the views were still incredible, and of course we made time to browse the gift shops.

Next, we headed to the African Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach — a sandy, rocky stretch with boardwalks that let you get surprisingly close to the penguins. They were adorable… but not exactly energetic. Most of them seemed perfectly content to nap in the wind. It was a blustery day, and I’m pretty sure they were doing the same thing we were — trying to keep the sand out of their eyes!

On our second day in the Cape Town area, we hopped on a ferry out to Robben Island — the prison island where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years behind bars. It’s one thing to read about it in history books… it’s another to actually stand there.

The tour started with a bus ride around the island. Our guide shared not only the history of the prison but also personal stories about her own family. Her grandfather had been imprisoned during apartheid, and she showed us his “pass book,” also called a dompas. Black South Africans were required to carry these internal passports at all times, and not having the proper permissions stamped inside could mean arrest, fines, or worse — which is exactly what happened to her grandfather. Seeing that little book made history feel very real. She even told us a short story in her native language, Xhosa. It’s filled with click sounds and tones that completely amazed us. Beautiful to listen to… but I can’t imagine trying to learn it!

After the bus portion, we continued on foot with another guide — a former political prisoner who had been held there in the late ’80s and early ’90s and was released when the prison closed. Hearing his firsthand account was both heartbreaking and eye-opening. He explained how prisoners were treated differently based on race — even down to the clothes they wore and the food they were given.

The most powerful moment was quietly peeking into the tiny cell where Nelson Mandela spent his days. Small. Simple. Sobering.

After a quick ferry ride back to the waterfront, we treated ourselves to another delicious lunch. The rest of the afternoon was free time — a little souvenir shopping, then back to the hotel to rest and pack. Camper pickup was the next day, and our safari-on-wheels adventure was about to begin!

Loving both adventure and RV travel, we decided to combine the two by signing up for a South African RV adventure with Fantasy RV. Our journey began in Cape Town. Like many of our fellow travelers, we arrived a few days early ahead of the tour. We had three glorious days to explore Cape Town at our own pace—though “on our own” isn’t quite true. Dear friends from the States spend their winters in Cape Town (which, lucky for them, is South Africa’s summer), so we were never truly solo. Instead, we enjoyed the luxury of having our very own personal tour guide, turning three days into a fun-filled Cape Town adventure.

 Day 1 kicked off with a visit to Kirstenbosch Gardens. We joined the 90-minute morning walking tour and ended up learning way more about South African plants than we expected — including the fact that the Cape Town area is one of the most botanically diverse places on Earth. Kirstenbosch is a stunning garden at the base of Table Mountain, filled with native plants, peaceful walking paths, and big lawns that are perfect for relaxing or picnicking. And some evenings you can attend outdoor music concerts they host there.

 After our stroll through the gardens, we were treated to afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel. It was the best kind of indulgence. The hotel is stunning, and the tearoom and terrace (where we sat) feel fancy without being stuffy. The food is exactly what you want—tiny sandwiches, warm scones, and a dessert tower that somehow disappears in minutes.

 We wrapped up the day with a sunset stroll along the Seaport promenade, and it felt like Cape Town’s most relaxed happy hour. The water sparkled as the light faded, and the promenade was alive with people grabbing dinner, listening to music, or just soaking in the view. It was a magical way to end an amazing first day.

Our second day kicked off with a short walk to the waterfront with the tour leaders and a few people from the RV group. Right away, it was full of life — boats drifting in and out of the harbor, busy sidewalk cafés, and plenty of seagulls making sure everyone knew they were around. The area has some shops and markets, and it felt like the kind of place you could happily spend an entire sunny day and evening just wandering around. Unfortunately, we had to cut our visit short since we were meeting up with our friend to head off for another day of sightseeing. Our first stop was lunch — boerewors, a spicy South African sausage that definitely lived up to the hype. What made it even better was the setting: a tiny outdoor café set up in the parking lot of a building supply store. Totally a locals’ spot and not somewhere most tourists would ever stumble upon, which made it feel extra special.

After lunch, we headed to Muizenberg Beach, a laid-back seaside town known for its surfers and colorful beach huts. I dipped my feet in the water so I can technically say I went “swimming,” while Steve went all in and enjoyed a proper swim. The water was a bit chilly at first, but after a few minutes it felt great and really refreshing. While our friend reassured us that great white sharks aren’t much of a concern anymore — there are shark spotters stationed on the hillside, and if one is seen, a siren sounds to clear the water. Luckily for us, no sirens went off that day.

Next, we made our way along False Bay to the charming area of Kalk Bay. Unlike the sandy beach we’d visited earlier, this stretch of coastline is rocky, but it was still full of families happily splashing around and enjoying the water in the tidal pools. Tidal pools in South Africa feel like perfectly placed swimming pools right on the edge of the ocean. Built into the rocks along the shore, they fill with fresh seawater as the tides come in, creating calm, protected places to swim while the waves crash just beyond the stone walls. That mix of ocean views and gentle water is what makes them so popular. They’re simple, safe, and relaxing — a way to enjoy the sea without worrying about strong currents or rough surf, which is why families especially love them.

We walked along the pier viewing the fresh catch from the fishing boats while a few hopeful fur seals lingered nearby, clearly waiting for a free fish. We wrapped up the day with an amazing seafood feast at Harbor House right by the pier — the perfect ending to a day by the water.

We had one last day to spend with our friend before the official start of our Fantasy RV tour, and it couldn’t have been a nicer send-off. The day began at the Constantia Uitsig winery, where we wandered through the beautifully kept formal gardens. The variety of flowers was incredible and kept us stopping every few steps to admire something new. We also got our first close-up look at a blooming protea, South Africa’s national flower. It was absolutely stunning. We settled in for a wine tasting and shared a bowl of macadamia nuts — still in the shell, which was a first for us. Each shell had a small groove cut into it, and we used a little “key” to twist them open, which was oddly fun.

We hopped back in the car and drove up the mountain, enjoying the stunning views along the way, until we reached Silvermine in Table Mountain National Park. Unfortunately, the mountaintop was wrapped in clouds, so there were no big views waiting for us at the top. That said, Silvermine still didn’t disappoint. There’s a dam and reservoir surrounded by a trail and boardwalk, and it’s a favorite local swimming spot. Even with the cloudy, breezy weather, plenty of people were out enjoying it. It was a beautiful place, and it’s easy to imagine just how incredible the views must be on a clear day.

We were treated to even more spectacular views as we came down off the mountain and headed toward Bloubergstrand Beach. This beautiful stretch of blue water and wide sandy shoreline is a favorite spot for kite surfers, and it was easy to see why. There seemed to be kites everywhere — easily a hundred of them spread along the beach — with surfers launching into impressive jumps and twists high in the air. We stood there for quite a while, completely mesmerized, just watching the colorful kites and the incredible skill on display.

Our final night with our friend was a perfect send-off — an amazing steak dinner at the Butcher Shop Restaurant in the Seaport area near her flat. It was another great chance to try some classic South African flavors we hadn’t had before. We sampled Monkey Gland Sauce, a sweet and tangy condiment (and no, it absolutely does not contain monkey glands). For a side, we had baked pumpkin, which was surprisingly delicious and comforting. And for dessert, we finished with Malva pudding — a soft, spongey baked treat with a caramel-like flavor, topped with a hot creamy sauce that soaks in while it’s still warm. It’s often served with ice cream.

There are a few different ferry and sea plane options to reach the island as it is only accessible by water and air. None of the ferries transport cars as no cars are allowed on the island. We began our journey in the port of Houghton, MI leaving on the Ranger III. It is a 6-hour ferry ride from this port. The ferry travel times from Copper Harbor, MI and Grand Portage, MN are much shorter, but for us that would have meant several more hours of driving to reach those ports. Houghton is not directly on Lake Superior, but in land so the first hour of the trip is navigating the river/canal to reach Lake Superior.  Ranger III has lots of seating both inside and out, including some areas with tables. It was a comfy ride, I slept a good bit on the way to the island, and we got lucky weather wise as the lake was very calm. We packed our lunch as we got mixed info regarding whether or not they sold food on the boat. Turns out, going to the island no food sales, but they did have food and drink available coming back. Not sure why sales one day but not the other. I recommend if making the trip, be prepared for no food and drink available, and put some in your day pack.

Upon arriving at Rock Harbor located on the northeastern tip of Isle Royale, along the southern shoreline of the Rock Harbor Channel, we headed to the lodge where we had a room reserved for the night. The rooms are comfy with a beautiful view over the lake, but not many extras. There is a small coffee pot, but no fridge or TV. There is also no wi-fi, and so you really are disconnected from the world while visiting. The lodge has two dining options, the Lighthouse Restaurant and Greenstone Grill, with the lighthouse serving more entrée like dinners and the grill serving pizza and burgers. We opted to have dinner at the Lighthouse Restaurant. Even on an island, there is of course a gift shop and a small dockside store selling groceries, camping supplies, and other essentials.

Since we had only planned staying for one night, we were limited on time on the island. (the return trip on the Ranger III begins boarding at 8:15am). For this reason, we only did one hike, Scoville Point Trail (also known as the Stoll Memorial Trail), a 4.5 mile figure-eight loop that starts near the lodge. The scenery is beautiful, hiking through pine forest with views of the rocky coastline of the lake culminating at the dramatic Scoville Point. Several smaller islands are visible off the coast, and one or two have many gulls on them. While plenty of evidence of moose in the area, we were disappointed to not see any. We did see some merganser ducks and a garter snake.

Overall, it was a good trip and nice to get another national park checked off. I would say this park is better suited for backpacking then day hiking as most of the park is back country,with over 160 miles of hiking trails. It is also popular for kayaking, canoeing, and fishing given the vast amount of coastline of Lake Superior. If you truly want to get away, Isle Royale offers a sanctuary for solitude and connecting with nature with its rare kind of silence and beauty that’s hard to find anywhere else

Our first stop ended up technically not being in the RV. We dropped the rig off for service and spent 3 nights in Disney World. Even though we have been there often, we always enjoy our time in the Disney bubble. We managed to hit all 4 parks in 2 ½ days. Even got to see the baby giraffe while on the Kilimanjaro Safaris ride. What a cutie! Also dined at 2 restaurants we had not been to before, Rosa Mexicano (Dolphin Hotel) and Jiko (Animal Kingdom Lodge). A fun way to start our road travels again.

Our next quick stop was in Raleigh NC. It was a beautiful Sunday that we got to spend with our youngest, Nick. We strolled the gorgeous gardens of the JC Raulston Arboretum, viewed some amazing artwork at the NC Museum of Art, and finally quenched our thirst with some yummy ciders at Bull City Ciderworks.

Before truly getting into the adventure part of summer travels, we spent a weekend in PA to celebrate the wedding of Emma & Ben. After some rainy days, the sun came out just in time for an outdoor ceremony, followed by a gorgeous rainbow as we were toasting the new Mr. & Mrs. at the indoor reception.  We truly appreciate being included in celebrating this beautiful couple. It was a fun night filled with lots of love and dancing.  

Now we are on the move to the start of more adventure heading to the upper Midwest, Wisconsin & Michigan.   Looking to check off another national park and exploring an area we have not been to before.

One of the things we love about living in the keys is access to delicious seafood. We spend a good portion of our days on the turquoise waters which are teeming with diverse marine life.  Mostly with fishing rods in hand, we are searching for an abundance of fish such as mutton snapper, yellowtail, and tuna. We have also invested in some crab traps, in the hopes that many stone crabs will find their way into them.

 Stone crabs are found primarily along the Gulf of Mexico and the southeastern coast of the United States, particularly in Florida.  These crabs are easily recognizable by their dark, rough carapace and distinctive orange-red claws. The claws grow to a large disproportional size to the crab, reminding one of Popeye forearms. Unlike many other crabs, stone crabs are sustainably harvested by removing only one or both of their claws, which regenerate over time, allowing the crab to live. This regeneration can take anywhere from several months to almost a year depending on the size and age of the crab, with younger crabs regenerating faster due to molting more often. The meat from stone crab claws has a delicate flavor and is often served cold.

 As a Florida resident with a fishing license, you are allowed five crab traps. Since this applies to each person, Steve and I together have 10 traps. These traps are cubes made from heavy-duty plastic, designed to be both strong and lightweight. The traps have openings large enough to allow crabs to enter but small enough to prevent them from escaping once inside. Bait is placed inside the trap to attract the crabs. We typically use pig’s feet or fish carcasses from our previous catch. The traps are dropped onto the ocean floor in somewhat shallow water, with a rope and buoy attached. As a recreational fisherman, our buoys are required to have a large R on them. We chose to paint our buoys blue and white for Penn State.

 After several days or a week, we harvest our traps in hopes of finding some crabs. This involves Steve steering the boat close to one of our buoys and me snagging the rope with the boat gaff hook. Steve then hauls the trap onto the boat for us to see what we caught.   We use tongs to pull the crabs from the trap, as those claws grow big and strong. Using a metal measuring device, we check to see if any claws are of legal size. One of the coolest things about these crabs is how you harvest claws by sticking a knife into one of the claw leg joints and presto, the crab releases his claw. It is so amazing to see. The crab is then released back into the water unharmed. While it is legal to harvest both claws, we tend to only take one claw, so the crab isn’t completely defenseless when released. Based on the number of one clawed crabs we catch, it appears most people hold to this philosophy.

 The claws are kept in salt water until we get back to shore.  Once home, we steam them for about 5 minutes making a yummy appetizer for dinner. The shells of the stone crab are very hard and require a good pit of whacking to crack, but the resulting meat is so worth the effort.

I believe I have previously shared how much we love winter in the FL keys. We enjoy everything from fishing to boating to snorkeling, basically just being on and around the water with no snow. However, as an RVer, it can be difficult to secure a spot in the limited campgrounds as so many want to be in the Florida sunshine during the winter months. If you do manage to get a spot, it is usually expensive and quite often a very small space.

 So, after the last RV resort where we barely had room for two outdoor chairs, I casually said maybe we should just get our own place in the Keys.  For those of you that know my husband, it was no surprise that in less than 24 hours he had hired a realtor. We spent one day looking at homes, returning to 2 the following day, and then made an offer. A short back & forth, and we had a contract. We closed on the house the end of January (while we were in Disney World – that made it a truly magical vacation). So, in just under 30 days, we decided to get a winter home, found one, and purchased it.

 After we said goodbye to our friends in Disney, we packed up the RV and drove to Ramrod Key and our new house. We have a large lot, and the RV can be parked right by the house. Another big plus for us, the house came furnished.  That was really good news since we didn’t own any furniture.

 Now we are trying to settle in and enjoy our new place. Steve is most excited about being on a canal and having our own dock. His new boat gets delivered this week. That means lots of days on the water fishing. I’m enjoying the pool and find myself relaxing there every evening.

 This does not mean our adventures are ending. We still intend to RV for half the year or more. It is winter warm sun in the FL keys. So if you find yourself in the southern keys  in the winter, stop on by.

One of the draws of winter in southern Florida is fishing. We love being on the water and take every opportunity we can to get out and cast a line or two. Recently while visiting Everglades city, we took advantage of the nice weather and rented a small boat. Our day on the water turned into an interesting little adventure.

Upon arrival at the boat rental, we were given instructions and directions for navigating the channel out to the ocean. Most important in this little spiel was the fact that the area was experiencing unusually low tides so it was very necessary to stay in the channel. Part way out, the motor kicked up some mud and we could tell it was on the verge of clogging. Quickly we shut the motor down and began to clear the line. Of course, while doing this our momentum carried a little further off course. Needless to say, when we got the motor fixed, we were in too shallow of water to continue. We got out the oars to push off the mud, but it was beyond too soft to push on. The paddles sank in immediately and no amount of leverage would move the boat. (the paddles were very cheap light weight plastic). A quick call back to the boat rental. The owner came to our rescue on his way out of the channel with a charter group. A thrown rope, a little tow, and we were back in the channel and ready to go again.

We fished and moved around for a couple of hours before heading into a little cove. When decided to move on, we discovered we now had no steering. An hydraulic line had come undone and fluid was leaking into the boat. Unable to fix it without tools, we found ourselves stranded once more. To make it more interesting, we had no cell coverage. Remember those cheap plastic paddles? Yep, they came into play again as we paddled our way out of the cove in our now giant “kayak”. Thankfully, as we exited the cove, Steve realized we could use the motor to go straight and then use the oars just for turning. This certainly helped to move us a little faster. Eventually we got back to the main channel and cell service.  A few texts with the owner, who told us to fish and hang out, and then he would pick us up on his way back. So, we fished, ate our lunch, and paddled our way around the area until we heard from him again. Upon his arrival, we transferred everything to his bigger boat and climbed aboard, leaving our little boat anchored by the channel.

 We still had a good time fishing, catching a variety of fish including ladyfish, speckled trout, lizard fish, catfish, and snook. Unfortunately none of them were keepers. Also saw a dolphin in the cove we entered. He swam at us fast just under the surfaced, looking like a torpedo coming at us, passing the boat just under the water. He was so quick I didn’t have time to pull my phone from my pocket for a pic.

 All in all, it was a great day to be on the water and thankfully, even with the mishaps, we were never in any danger.

The water is the main draw for us, in addition to the great weather, and fishing is our main activity, providing hours of enjoyment and a great way to stock the freezer.  We fish from bridges, docks, boats, and even the kayak. Bridge fishing in the Florida Keys is a popular activity, thanks to the abundance of fish species and the picturesque scenery. The Keys are home to numerous bridges, which provide anglers with excellent access to a wide variety of fish, such as snapper, grouper and jacks. Boat fishing provides an even greater variety as in addition to species found by the bridge, the boat offers the chance to reach deeper waters and larger fish. Several times we rented a center console boat for a day of fishing. Usually, we would go a few miles offshore, fishing among the reefs and deeper water, and even trolling. Once while trolling, we caught a barracuda. It was exciting as the fish fought, jumping from the water as Steve struggled to bring it in.

Another great way to enjoy the water and get some exercise is kayaking. It is a wonderful way to explore the region’s natural beauty of clear waters, mangroves, and coral reefs. With clear shallow waters along the coast, it provides a peaceful opportunity for close-up viewing of marine life and various birds and mammals on the shores. With the windy days this year, we didn’t get the kayak out as much as wanted, but the couple of trips offered the great chance to see an osprey up close and watch a shark in shallow waters.  

When not enjoying the water, just being in a tropical paradise is reason enough to spend winter in the keys. Palm trees, sunshine, and pina coladas make for relaxing afternoons and evenings. The majority of the RV resorts are on the water and even have several sites with beautiful water views. Additionally the campgrounds have various amenities from pools to individual tiki huts to restaurants and bars on property.

The one drawback to RVing in the keys, is that it is very popular and therefore not always easy to get a spot. In addition, the resorts take advantage to everyone wanting to be in paradise, and the sites are very small with little privacy. Maybe we just need our own home in the keys to enjoy every winter.