Heading to the Ionian island of Corfu? From historic fortresses to hidden beaches and mountain villages, here are the best things to do in Corfu.

Corfu had been on my list for years, and we finally made it there recently. Before our Greece sailing trip, Alberto and I spent a week exploring Corfu, and for the first time in a very long time, we traveled without Kaleya! She stayed with family, which meant a rare week of long lunches, lazy afternoons by the pool, and spontaneous detours without anyone asking “are we there yet?”

We rented a car and drove all over the island: beach hopping, visiting the main sights, getting lost in charming hilltop villages and squeezing in a short hike. What surprised me most was how green Corfu is. Unlike the dry, rocky Cyclades, the Ionian island is covered in olive groves, cypress trees and wildflowers, with a coastline of turquoise coves and dramatic cliffs. But the real highlight for me was Corfu Old Town: with its Venetian fortresses, pastel buildings and maze of narrow lanes.

If you’re planning a trip, here are the best things to do in Corfu, an itinerary and all the practical tips you need.

Where is Corfu?

Corfu (Kerkyra in Greek) is the second-largest of the Ionian Islands, located off the northwest coast of Greece. You can easily combine a trip here with Paxos or Lefkada, and book your villa holidays in Greece through Ionian & Aegean Island Holidays with accommodation and transfers all taken care of.

Because of its location, Corfu has a history unlike anywhere else in Greece. The Venetians ruled the island for around 400 years, followed by the French and then the British, and it was one of the few parts of Greece never conquered by the Ottomans. You’ll see those influences everywhere, from the Italianate architecture to the cricket matches on the main square and the ginger beer served in cafés.

Corfu has its own international airport just outside Corfu Town, with direct flights from all over Europe in summer, and it’s a short flight from Athens.

Search for flights to Corfu here

Best Things to Do in Corfu

1. Get Lost in Corfu Old Town

If you only do one thing in Corfu, make it this. Corfu Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful old towns in Greece.

Wander through the kantounia, the narrow alleyways lined with tall Venetian townhouses in shades of ochre, pink and peach, with laundry strung between the balconies. Pop into the Church of Saint Spyridon, dedicated to the island’s patron saint, whose red-domed bell tower is the tallest in town. Then keep walking and see where the lanes take you, stopping for a freddo espresso in a hidden square.

As soon as we stepped into the old town, I was reminded of Valletta in Malta: the same honey-colored stone, the fortifications looming over the sea and the layers of history on every corner. 

Tip: Visit in the early morning or evening, when day-trippers from the cruise ships have left and the town takes on a magical glow.

2. Have a Drink at the Liston & Spianada Square

On the edge of the old town, the Liston is an elegant arcade built by the French in the early 1800s and modeled on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Today it’s lined with cafés and bars, and it’s the place to people-watch over an aperitif.

In front of it is Spianada Square, one of the largest squares in Greece. Its lawn is also a cricket pitch, a quirky leftover from British rule. If you’re lucky, you might catch a match on a summer weekend.

Order a tsitsibira (the local ginger beer, another British legacy) and watch the world go by.

3. Climb the Old Fortress

Built by the Venetians on a rocky headland separated from town by a moat, the Old Fortress is Corfu Town’s most iconic landmark. Walk across the bridge and climb up to the lighthouse at the top for panoramic views over the old town’s rooftops, the sea and the mountains of mainland Greece and Albania.

Inside, you’ll also find the Church of St George, which looks strikingly like a Greek temple.

• Opening hours: 8am–8pm in summer
• Price: Small entry fee (check the latest price on the official Hellenic Heritage website, hhticket.gr)

4. Explore the New Fortress

Don’t let the name fool you. The New Fortress was built by the Venetians in the late 16th century. It’s less visited than the Old Fortress, but it has its own maze of tunnels, ramparts and great views over the port and the old town’s rooftops. Come in the late afternoon for the golden light.

5. See Mouse Island & Vlacherna Monastery

Just south of Corfu Town, on the Kanoni peninsula, is one of the most photographed views in Greece. The tiny Vlacherna Monastery sits on an islet connected to the shore by a narrow causeway, with the cypress-covered Pontikonisi (Mouse Island) floating just behind it.

Walk along the causeway to the monastery, or take a little boat across to Mouse Island. Aviation fans will love this spot too: the runway of Corfu Airport is right next to it, so planes fly in low over the lagoon.

Tip: For the classic view, head to the café terraces up at Kanoni.

6. Visit the Achilleion Palace

About 10km south of Corfu Town, in the village of Gastouri, the Achilleion Palace was built in the 1890s for Empress Elisabeth of Austria (better known as Sisi), who fell in love with Corfu and wanted a summer retreat dedicated to her hero, Achilles. It was later bought by the German Kaiser Wilhelm II.

The neoclassical palace is filled with artworks, but the real highlights are the gardens, with sweeping views over the coast and the giant statue of Achilles Triumphant.

• Opening hours: 8am–8pm daily (April–October)
• Price: €7 for adults, €5 reduced

7. Swim in the Coves of Paleokastritsa

On the west coast, Paleokastritsa is one of the most beautiful spots in Corfu, a series of small bays with water in every shade of blue and green, framed by forested cliffs. Legend has it that this is where Odysseus washed up on the shores of the Phaeacians in Homer’s Odyssey.

Take a boat trip from the harbor to explore the sea caves along the coast, then walk up to the Monastery of Paleokastritsa, a whitewashed 13th-century monastery perched on the headland with a peaceful courtyard and incredible views.

Tip: Paleokastritsa gets very busy in July and August, so arrive before 10am to find parking.

8. Hike Up to Angelokastro

A few kilometers north of Paleokastritsa, the ruins of Angelokastro cling to a rocky pinnacle more than 300 meters above the sea. This Byzantine castle was built in the 13th century and used as a lookout against pirate attacks. It’s a short but steep climb from the parking area, rewarded with jaw-dropping views down the coast.

9. Hike to Porto Timoni

This was our favorite spot in Corfu. Porto Timoni is Corfu’s famous “double beach,” two crescent-shaped coves back to back on a narrow strip of land, with water on both sides. You can only reach it on foot (or by boat).

The trail starts in the hilltop village of Afionas and takes about 20–30 minutes each way. It’s rocky and steep in places, so wear proper shoes, bring plenty of water and go early. There are no facilities on the beach, and the climb back up is tough in the midday heat.

10. Swim Through the Canal d’Amour in Sidari

On Corfu’s north coast, the village of Sidari is famous for the Canal d’Amour, a series of sandstone rock formations carved by wind and waves into coves, arches and narrow channels. According to local legend, if you swim through the canal, you’ll find your true love (or stay with the one you’ve got!).

Sidari itself is quite built up, but the rock formations are beautiful, especially at sunset. Nearby, the Cape Drastis cliffs are even more dramatic and far less crowded.

11. Go Beach Hopping on the West Coast

Having a car in Corfu means you can go beach hopping, and that was one of our favorite things to do. The west coast has the best sandy beaches, and they’re perfect for watching the sunset.

Some of the best beaches in Corfu include:

• Glyfada Beach: A long stretch of golden sand with beach bars and great sunsets
• Myrtiotissa Beach: Lawrence Durrell called it perhaps the loveliest beach in the world. It’s small, wild and reached by a steep path.
• Rovinia Beach: A secluded pebble cove near Liapades with crystal-clear water, best reached by boat or a short walk
• Agios Gordios: A wide bay backed by olive-covered hills and dramatic rock formations
• Arillas & Agios Georgios Pagon: Laid-back bays in the northwest, close to Afionas and Porto Timoni

12. Wander Through Old Perithia

Tucked in the foothills of Mount Pantokrator, Old Perithia is one of the oldest villages in Corfu. It was built in the Byzantine era, when islanders moved to the mountains to escape pirates, and was gradually abandoned in the 20th century as people moved to the coast.

Today, its stone houses and churches are slowly being restored, and a handful of excellent tavernas serve traditional food in the village square. Wandering its quiet lanes feels like stepping back in time.

13. Drive Up Mount Pantokrator

At 906 meters, Mount Pantokrator is the highest point in Corfu. A winding road climbs almost all the way to the summit, where there’s a small monastery and a café. On a clear day, you can see across the island to the mainland and Albania. It’s the best view in Corfu, and a great detour if you’re staying in the north.

Tip: The last stretch of road is narrow and steep, so take it slow, and bring a jacket as it’s much cooler at the top.

14. Explore the Villages of the Northeast Coast

Corfu’s northeast coast is lined with picturesque fishing villages facing Albania across the strait. The water here is calm and clear, and it’s a great area for a lazy day of swimming and seafood lunches.

• Kassiopi: A lively harbor village with the ruins of a Byzantine castle, pretty coves and lots of restaurants
• Kalami: Home of the White House, where writer Lawrence Durrell lived in the 1930s (his brother Gerald’s My Family and Other Animals inspired the TV series The Durrells). The house is now a taverna right on the water.
• Agni: A tiny cove with three famous seafood tavernas
• Agios Stefanos Sinion: A peaceful horseshoe bay with fishing boats and yachts

15. Taste Corfu’s Food & Kumquat Liqueur

Thanks to its Venetian heritage, Corfu’s cuisine is a little different from the rest of Greece. Make sure to try:

• Sofrito: Veal slow-cooked in white wine, garlic and parsley
• Pastitsada: A spiced beef or rooster stew served with pasta
• Bourdeto: A spicy fish stew with red pepper
• Kumquat liqueur: Kumquats were brought to Corfu by the British in the 19th century and are now the island’s signature product. You’ll find the bright orange liqueur, sweets and preserves in shops all over the old town, often with free tastings.

16. Take a Day Trip to Paxos & Antipaxos

Some of the most beautiful water in the Ionian Sea is found just south of Corfu, around the tiny islands of Paxos and Antipaxos. Fast ferries and day cruises leave from Corfu Town and Lefkimmi, and most visit the blue sea caves of Paxos, the turquoise lagoons of Antipaxos and the pretty harbor town of Gaios.

After our week in Corfu, we spent several days sailing around Paxos and Antipaxos, and it was the highlight of our entire trip. If you have time, stay for a night or two! They promise spearmint waters, pristine coves and surprisingly empty beaches.

17. Hop Over to Albania for the Day

Here’s one for the adventurous. Corfu is so close to Albania that you can take a day trip across the strait. Ferries run from Corfu Port to Saranda on the Albanian Riviera. The crossing takes only around 30 minutes. From Saranda, you can visit the ancient ruins of Butrint or continue exploring the rest of the country. 

Alberto and I took the ferry over from Corfu and ended up traveling all over Albania. It was such an easy yet adventurous experience! Albania itself is a beautiful country packed full of medieval mountain villages, historical sites and sprawling beaches. I would recommend spending at least a week to explore Albania if you’re short on time, otherwise 2 or 3 weeks would be better.

Remember to bring your passport, and check the entry requirements for your nationality.

Our Recommended Corfu Itinerary

Not sure how to fit it all in? Here’s how I would plan a trip, based on our week on the island.

3 Days in Corfu

Day 1: Corfu Town Spend the morning exploring Corfu Old Town, the Church of Saint Spyridon and the Old Fortress. Have lunch in the old town, then visit Mouse Island and Vlacherna Monastery in the afternoon. End the day with drinks at the Liston.

Day 2: West Coast Drive to Paleokastritsa for a boat trip to the sea caves and a visit to the monastery. After lunch, climb up to Angelokastro, then head south for a sunset swim at Glyfada Beach.

Day 3: North Coast Go early to Afionas and hike to Porto Timoni. In the afternoon, visit the Canal d’Amour in Sidari and watch the sunset at Cape Drastis.

5 Days in Corfu

Follow the 3-day itinerary above, then add:

Day 4: Northeast Coast & Mountains Drive up Mount Pantokrator in the morning, then have lunch at a taverna in Old Perithia. Spend the afternoon swimming and village hopping between Kassiopi, Agios Stefanos and Kalami.

Day 5: Achilleion Palace & Day Trip, or Beach Day Visit the Achilleion Palace in the morning, then spend the afternoon on one of the west coast beaches. Alternatively, take a full-day boat trip to Paxos and Antipaxos.

One week or more? Use the extra days to slow down, as we did. Stay a few nights in the north and a few in Corfu Town, add a day trip to Albania, or take the ferry to Paxos and stay a couple of nights.

How to Get Around Corfu

Rent a car. Corfu is much bigger than most people expect (it takes around 1.5 hours to drive from the far north to the far south), and the best beaches, villages and viewpoints are spread out across the island. We rented a car for the week, and it gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. Search for car rentals in Corfu here!

A few driving tips:

• Roads in the mountains and villages are narrow and winding, so rent a small car.
• Parking in Corfu Town is limited. Use the paid parking lots near the New Fortress or the port and walk into the old town.
• Arrive early at popular beaches like Paleokastritsa and Porto Timoni, when parking spaces run out.

Buses: The green KTEL buses connect Corfu Town with the main resorts, and the blue city buses cover Corfu Town and nearby areas like Kanoni and the Achilleion. They’re cheap, but not very frequent.

Boat trips & water taxis: Many of the best coves are easier to reach by boat. You can rent a small motorboat without a license in places like Agios Stefanos and Kassiopi.

Best Time to Visit Corfu

The best time to visit Corfu is the shoulder season – May, June and September – when the weather is warm and sunny, the sea is perfect for swimming, and the island is less crowded than in peak summer.

July and August are the hottest and busiest months. Beaches and parking lots fill up quickly, it can get really crowded, and prices for accommodation and car rental go up. If you’re traveling in the summer holidays, book well in advance.

October is still lovely, with warm seas and quiet beaches, although some businesses start to close at the end of the month. Corfu is so green because it rains a lot in winter, so November to March isn’t ideal for a beach holiday. But it’s a great time to explore Corfu Town without the crowds.

Easter in Corfu is also very special, with processions and the famous tradition of throwing clay pots from the balconies of the old town on Holy Saturday.

Where to Stay in Corfu

Where you stay will shape your trip, so it’s worth thinking about what kind of holiday you want.

Corfu Town

Stay in or near Corfu Old Town if you want to be able to walk to restaurants, bars and sights, and use it as a base for day trips. It’s also close to the airport and the port. You won’t need a car then and there’s plenty to see within walking distance.

• Cavalieri Hotel (mid-range): A historic hotel with a rooftop bar and restaurant overlooking the Old Fortress and the sea. Check rates here.
• Siora Vittoria Boutique Hotel (boutique): A restored 19th-century mansion with elegant rooms and a peaceful garden courtyard. Check rates here. 
• Bella Venezia (mid-range): A neoclassical mansion with breakfast served in its garden, a few minutes’ walk from the Liston. Check rates here.

North Corfu

The north and northeast are perfect for a quieter holiday, with calm, clear water, waterfront tavernas and easy access to Mount Pantokrator, Old Perithia and the fishing villages.

We stayed at Mr and Mrs White Corfu Couples Retreat, an adults-only hotel in Acharavi on the north coast, and loved it. The rooms are decorated in minimalist white and set around lush Mediterranean gardens, with a pool, pool bar and outdoor jacuzzi, and the long sandy beach of Acharavi is just a short walk away. 

• Mr and Mrs White Corfu Couples Retreat (adults-only): Our pick for couples. Minimalist, relaxing and close to the beach. Check rates here. 
• San Antonio Corfu Resort (adults-only): A hillside resort with an infinity pool overlooking the bay. Check rates here.
• The Durrell White House (villa): Rent a villa in Lawrence Durrell’s former home, right above the famous waterfront taverna. Check rates here.

East Coast 

Just north of Corfu Town, the east coast around Dassia and the Kommeno peninsula is home to some of the island’s best big resorts. It’s a great choice for families who want pools, kids’ clubs and an easy drive into town.

• Grecotel Corfu Imperial (luxury): A classic luxury resort spread across its own peninsula, with private beaches and villas. Check rates here. 
• Ikos Dassia (all-inclusive): Upscale all-inclusive with excellent restaurants and family facilities. Check rates here. 
• Grecotel LUXME Daphnila Bay (luxury all-inclusive): A beachfront family resort surrounded by pine forest, with a kids’ club. Check rates here. 

West Coast

Base yourself on the west coast if you want to be near the best sandy beaches and sunsets, as well as Paleokastritsa, Angelokastro and Porto Timoni.

• Domes of Corfu (luxury): A stylish beachfront resort right on Glyfada Beach, with gorgeous sunset views. Check rates here. 
• Akrotiri Beach Hotel (mid-range to upscale): Sea views from every room, with direct access to the water and diving nearby. Check rates here. 
• Ella Alkyna Adults Only (adults-only): A seafront hotel with a pool and spa on one of the island’s prettiest bays. Check rates here.

Corfu Travel Tips

• Rent a car (seriously!). It’s the best way to explore the island. Search for car rentals in Corfu here!
• Book the popular spots early in the day. Paleokastritsa, Porto Timoni and the Canal d’Amour get busy by mid-morning in summer.
• Check the cruise ship schedule. Corfu Town can get crowded when several ships are in port. Plan your old town visit for early morning or evening.
• Carry some cash for beach loungers, parking and small tavernas, although cards are widely accepted.
• Pack water shoes. Many beaches in Corfu are pebbly.
• Cover up in monasteries and churches. Bring a scarf or sarong to cover your shoulders and knees.
• Get an eSIM for navigating around the island. We used Airalo on our trip. Check out Airalo’s eSIMs for Corfu here.
• Get travel insurance that covers car rental and water activities. Not sure where to start? Check out my detailed guide to choosing the best travel insurance for your trip.

FAQs About Visiting Corfu

Further Reading on Greece

Thank you so much for reading all the way through! I hope this list of the best things to do in Corfu has given you a real feel for the island, from getting lost in the old town’s narrow lanes to hiking down to those hidden double beaches up north.

If you’re planning your own trip and have questions about where to stay, how to fit it all into your itinerary, or anything else, just leave a comment below and I’ll help however I can.

And if this has you craving more of Greece, I’ve written plenty of other guides to help you explore the country:

• Our 1-Week Greece Island Hopping Itinerary
• Our Greece Sailing Holiday with Yacht Getaways
• 10 Best Greek Islands to Visit
• My Guide to Kefalonia Greece
• 20 Best Things to do in Mykonos, Greece
• Santorini with Kids
• 10 Best Historical Sites in Greece
• Sailing in Greece
• How We Find the Right eSIM for Travel
• 20 Best Travel Apps
• Best Travel Insurance

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to companies I use and trust. I get a small commission when you click on my links, at NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.

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We moved our family from Spain to Tbilisi a month ago, and this post covers exactly why we picked Georgia — plus the honest bits about living in Tbilisi.

If you’re new around here: my husband and I have been working remotely and living abroad, changing countries every few years with our daughter since she was 2 years old. I’m a travel writer, he’s a software engineer, and we’ve lived in Spain, the Netherlands, Mexico and most recently South Africa. Our daughter Kaleya is 11 now, and she’s been worldschooled for nine of those years, traveling to over 60 countries with us.

Travel had shaped her into the adventurous and adaptable little girl that she is today, and we want to keep this lifestyle going for as long as she’s happy. When our year in Cape Town wrapped up in May, we spent this summer in Spain having the same conversation we have every couple of years: right, where next? We narrowed our choices to Montenegro, Thailand, Japan, and Georgia. 

Georgia stood out amongst the others for various reasons. I’ve traveled Georgia before and absolutely loved it, and I knew we would have a good time here. In nomad forums and conversations with other travelling families, Tbilisi also kept popping up and it sounded like more digital nomads are staying here than ever. By August we were on a plane here and now a month later we’re settled in our new apartment, with our kid in a new school, a dog who’s adjusting, and an alphabet none of us can read yet. 

Why We Moved to Georgia

I’ve had more questions about this move than any other we’ve made. My own mother had to look up where Georgia was. So here’s the full answer — why we chose Tbilisi, what it costs, and how life looks here.

A New Adventure

We’ve lived in Europe for a long time, so we weren’t that interested in moving to a city in Western Europe that we’re familiar with. Georgia is different from the Europe we’re familiar with and unique in many ways. 

The language isn’t related to anything — it’s a genuine isolate, with no connection to any other language family anywhere. The alphabet is its own alphabet, all loops and curls, and until you learn it you can’t read a single shop sign. Sitting between Europe and Asia, the country is truly a Caucasian nation with its own cultural identity.

I’m starting Georgian classes next week and I cannot wait for the challenge. Kaleya is also learning it in school and she’s excited to share with us all the new Georgian words she’s learning.

Easy Access to the Mountains

After a year in Cape Town with Table Mountain basically at our back door, we knew we couldn’t go back to a city without nature surrounding it. I’d actually been to Georgia once, about 10 years ago, and honestly my favorite thing about the country is the snow-capped mountains. 

Tbilisi delivers on this in a way I didn’t expect. The city is green, it’s built into hills, and you can be on a funicular or cable car looking down over the whole thing about twenty minutes after leaving your front door. The Greater Caucasus — proper mountains, glaciers, the works — is a few hours’ drive away. We are heading to the Kazbegi mountains this weekend and we cannot wait! 

The Visa Policy is Generous

Georgia lets citizens of around 98 countries stay for a full year without a visa. That makes it so much easier for us. In every place we’ve lived, we usually have had to apply for digital nomad or temporary residency visas, which can be a pain. Here we get the same 365 days, no application, no fee, nothing to organise before flying. If you’ve ever tried to relocate a family, you’ll know what a relief that is.

One important caveat: this is a tourist allowance, not residency. The year resets when you leave and come back, and many people I know who’ve stayed here long-term just do a border run to Armenia or Turkey and start again. Georgia has been tightening up on overstays with bigger fines and entry bans, so if we stay beyond a year we’ll look into a proper residence permit rather than relying on border hops forever.

The 1% Tax Setup

This is the thing every article about Georgia leads with, and it’s usually oversimplified — including in my own Instagram caption, so let me be more careful here.

Georgia has a Small Business Status for people registered as Individual Entrepreneurs. It’s 1% on turnover up to 500,000 GEL a year (about US$185,000), then 3% on anything above that, and if you go over two years running you lose the status altogether. It’s a real registration with real obligations — monthly filings — and certain professions are excluded from it entirely.

Whether it fits your situation depends enormously on what you do and how you’re paid. Mine as a freelance writer and Alberto’s as an employed software engineer are two completely different cases. We’re not tax advisers and this isn’t tax advice — we recommend talking to Expat Hub, who helped us with our IE application.

Great International Schools 

We have tried homeschooling, and it genuinely worked — with online classes for 3-4 hours a day, afternoons free for fun activities like rock climbing, robotics and mountain biking. Kaleya has also tried a mix of schools: from small Montessori schools to green schools. But Kaleya is 11 now, and we feel it’s time to enrol her in a fully accredited international school that challenges her. 

So she’s back in a physical classroom at an international school here, and so far it’s going really well. There are kids from a dozen different countries in her year, the place runs like clockwork, and the facilities honestly surprised me. She came home after her first week with the names of four new friends and so much excitement! Watching her settle in has reassured me about this move more than anything else.

Tbilisi has genuine choices here, which matters — there are British, American, German, French and Georgian-international options, but fees are that much cheaper than in Western Europe. Most schools I looked at fall somewhere between 10,500 and 50,000 GEL a year (roughly US$3,800–20,000). These are the schools we narrowed down to:

• British International School of Tbilisi (our choice!)
• New School Georgia
• European School of Tbilisi
• QSI International School of Tbilisi

What We Actually Spend Here

The cost of living in Tbilisi is generally lower than in Western Europe — but rent has climbed a lot in the last few years, due to COVID and the Russia-Ukraine war. Honestly, we spend the same here as we do at home in Spain, but we do have a fuller life here. We eat out in restaurants more often, book experiences, go to cafes and take ride-sharing taxis without worrying too much about how much we’re spending.

Some rough numbers (US$1 is about 2.7 GEL):

• Rent – Furnished two-bedrooms in the central areas like Vake, Vera and Saburtaloi generally run from around US$800–1,800 a month. We’re in the Lisi area, right by our daughter’s school, and we pay $2,200 a month for a big 3-bedroom apartment (we need the space as we work from home).*
• Coffee – 5 GEL (US$2) for an espresso at a corner cafe, 12–15 GEL (US$4.50–5.50) for a matcha latte or flat white at a hip modern joint. Tbilisi’s coffee scene is much better than I expected.
• Eating out – A casual Georgian meal is around 15-30 GEL (US$5.50–10.50) per person. International food is more expensive, but you can still easily order sushi or Thai food on Wolt for less than 20 GEL ($7.50) per person. We eat out more often here and the variety of options is impressive.
• Taxis – A Bolt across town is 8–15 GEL (US$3–6). 
• Internet – US$10–40 a month for fast fibre and $10 for internet data on our phones. Internet connection has been rock solid so far. Check out Airalo’s eSIMs for Georgia here.
• Utilities – Roughly US$40–80 a month, though I’m told winter heating pushes that up.

*Note that monthly Airbnb rates run 20–30% above what the same flat costs on a proper lease, so it’s worth switching over as soon as you can.

Everything Here is Digital

This is the thing that has surprised me most: Georgia has digitalized a huge amount of ordinary life. Apple Pay works practically everywhere — the bakery, the taxi, the tiny fruit shop on our corner — and I’ve barely used cash since we arrived. There’s an app for everything else too: ordering groceries, booking a cleaner, paying utility bills, getting a ride across town. Errands that would have swallowed an entire morning in Mexico or South Africa take about four minutes on my phone here.

Buying a car is ridiculously easy – we found ours through a fixer, went to the car registration centre in Rustavi and within 10 minutes, we had our new plate and car ownership. Opening a bank account as a foreigner is refreshingly simple as well. No residence permit needed, no months of documents — you turn up with your passport and come out with an account. After what we went through setting up banking in previous countries, it felt almost too easy.

The fiddlier part is moving money between countries. We earn money in USD and Euros, but we pay rent in Georgian Lari, and I send money to my family in Singaporean dollars — so we need to figure out how to transfer money from bank to bank online with the least fees. If you’re US-based, it’s worth checking out SoFi for the most favorable transfer fees.

A Community That’s Already Building

We’re only a month in and we’ve already connected with quite a few people. Tbilisi has a big and growing international community — remote workers, families, people who came for a month and stayed for years — which makes the first weeks far less lonely than arriving somewhere with no scene at all.

We’re really keen to connect with more international families, people with kids Kaleya’s age who’ve also picked up their whole life and moved here. We’ve found people through Facebook groups and the school so far, and I’ll report back properly once we’ve been here longer.

Georgian Food is Amazing

Georgian food is winning us over completely. Khachapuri is a boat of bread filled with molten cheese and an egg yolk you stir in at the table. Khinkali are soup dumplings you eat with your hands and zero dignity. Ojakhuri is exactly what you want after a day in the hills. We’re having a blast trying out local dishes here. What’s impressive is Tbilisi’s array of international food — you can actually find pretty authentic Chinese, Japanese and Thai food here.

We Can Still Get to Our Families

Tbilisi sits at a useful crossroads: getting to Spain for Alberto’s parents is straightforward, Singapore is manageable, and Armenia, Turkey, Central Asia and the Middle East are all within easy reach. That’s a whole region we can explore, and having it on our doorstep for a year is a big part of the appeal. We already have plans to travel the ‘Stans soon and visit family during the Christmas holidays!

The Honest Concerns

Of course, nowhere is perfect. We had our concerns about certain things in Georgia too.

• Russia and the politics. Georgia shares a border with Russia and has two unresolved breakaway regions, and there have been significant political protests here.We did weigh it up seriously before committing, but so far we haven’t seen or heard any major protests here. We can see that there are many Russians and Ukrainians living here, but everyone seems civil and respectful.

• Winter. It’s coming, and Tbilisi’s winter has a reputation I’m told is deserved. One of the things that made Georgia so attractive to Kaleya is the snow – apparently Georgia offers some of the cheapest skiing in Europe and there are some beautiful ski slopes here. We’re excited about going skiing this winter, but I’m still worried about grey, gloomy weather. Ask me again in January.

• Leaving people behind. This is the part that never gets easier. We all left good friends in South Africa and Mexico, and we still message them at odd hours because of the time difference. No amount of khinkali fixes that, and it’s the honest cost of this life.

Nine years in, we’ve stopped waiting for a move to feel completely safe, because not one of them ever has.

Was It the Right Call?

Ask me in a year, which is usually when I find out whether a place has actually become home or was just somewhere we lived for a while.

But a month in: Kaleya walked into a classroom full of strangers and came out grinning, the mountains are twenty minutes up a cable car, and we can stay a full year without filling in a single form. That feels like a good start.

If you’re considering Georgia and have questions, drop them in the comments or send me a message — I’m answering a lot of these at the moment anyway, and I’d rather answer them properly here.

In the meantime, here are a few other posts that might help you figure out your own move:

• How We Keep Our Child Safe While Traveling
• My Ultimate List of Resources for Digital Nomad Families
• How We Find the Right eSIM for Travel
• How We Navigate the World as a Digital Nomad Family
• 30 Countries with Digital Nomad Visas
• 20 Best Travel Apps

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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Svalbard’s cruise season is short, and every week looks different. Here’s a breakdown of the best time to go on a Svalbard cruise — and my experience of traveling there in August.

There was a moment on my cruise to Longyearbyen that I will remember forever. We were cruising somewhere north of Spitsbergen and having a few beers with my cruise mates at 11pm out under the midnight sun, when the expedition leader’s voice came over the speakers: bear, port side, walking. The few of us walked out on deck in fleece and half-zipped parkas, and none of us said a word for twenty minutes, watching the polar bear in awe. He was walking on the ice floe, barely a few inches from our vessel.

That moment is the whole reason people travel to the Arctic. But whether you get it depends enormously on which weeks of the year you book. Svalbard’s expedition cruise season runs roughly from late May to late September, and those four months are not interchangeable. In late May you can be sailing through pack ice at 78°N with a snowmobile still parked outside the hotel in Longyearbyen. By mid-August the same fjords are green-brown and snow-free, the bird cliffs are emptying, and ships are pushing all the way around Nordaustlandet. Same archipelago, completely different trip.

Having sailed to both the Arctic and Antarctica, I can tell you the Arctic is by far the more misunderstood of the two. This guide is the one I wish I’d had: an honest, month-by-month breakdown of what a Svalbard cruise actually delivers, so you can pick your dates around what matters most to you rather than around whatever’s on sale.

But:

• For pack ice and polar bears on ice → late May to mid-June
• For seabirds and Arctic flowers → June to mid-July
• For a full circumnavigation of Spitsbergen → late July to early September
• For whales → August and September
• For photography and golden light → September
• For the lowest prices → late May/early June, or September
• For hiking → August

Why Ice Dictates Everything in Svalbard

This is the single thing that separates Svalbard planning from planning any other cruise. In Alaska or Norway’s fjords, your itinerary is a schedule. In Svalbard it’s a proposal.

Sea ice extends far down the archipelago in spring and retreats steadily north and east through summer. Ships can’t push through fast ice — and since January 2025, breaking fast ice is explicitly banned under Svalbard’s environmental regulations. So the further into the season you go, the further your ship can physically travel.

Practically, this means:

• May–early June: ice still blocks the north and east. Routes stay along the west coast of Spitsbergen, with shorter distances and more Zodiac cruising than landings.
• Mid-June–mid-July: ice opens up along the north coast. Ships reach Raudfjorden, Liefdefjorden, the Monaco Glacier, and often the 80th parallel.
• Late July–September: ice hits its annual minimum. Hinlopen Strait, Nordaustlandet, and occasionally Kvitøya come into range — this is circumnavigation territory.

No operator can promise you a specific bay. Every good expedition team writes the itinerary each morning based on ice charts and wind. If a company guarantees you a fixed route in Svalbard, that’s a red flag, not a selling point.

Month by Month: What Each Part of the Season Really Gives You

Late May: Ice, Silence and Very Few Ships

• Temperature: −5°C to +5°C 
• Light: Midnight sun (the sun stays above the horizon in Longyearbyen from around 20 April to 22 August) 
• Ships sailing: Very few

May is the connoisseur’s month, and also the hardest one. Svalbard landscape is still fully white — mountains, valleys, beaches, all of it. Shore landings often need snowshoes. The ice hasn’t retreated enough for long-distance sailing, so voyages tend to stick to the west coast and Isfjorden’s arms.

What you get in exchange is atmosphere and ice. Polar bears are still hunting seals on sea ice, which is the classic image everyone’s chasing, and mothers with cubs are around. The light in May is genuinely strange — flat, bright, all night — and it’s the driest month of the year here, with rainfall around 13mm.

Book May if: you want a genuinely wintry Arctic, you’re a photographer who likes white-on-white, and you’re comfortable with a shorter geographical range.

Skip May if: you want hiking, flowers, or a circumnavigation.

June: Bird Cliffs Erupt and the North Opens Up

• Temperature: 0°C to 10°C, occasionally higher 
• Light: 24-hour daylight 
• Ships sailing: Season fully open

June is when Svalbard comes noisily alive. Around three million migratory seabirds arrive to breed — little auks, Brünnich’s guillemots, kittiwakes, puffins, Arctic terns — and the cliffs go from empty rock to something that sounds like a stadium. Alkefjellet in the Hinlopen Strait, home to roughly 60,000 breeding pairs of guillemots, is the standout, and it’s usually reachable from mid-June onwards.

The snow on the beaches recedes through the month, which is when proper shore landings and longer hikes become possible. The tundra starts flowering: purple saxifrage, Svalbard poppies, moss campion, all of it about three centimetres tall and improbably determined. Reindeer and Arctic foxes appear on land. Plankton blooms start pulling whales into the fjords.

Ice-wise, June is the transition. Early June still means limits; late June often means the north coast and a shot at 80°N.

Book June if: you want the best of both — some remaining ice, peak bird activity, and enough access to go north. This is my personal pick.

July: Peak Access, Peak Choice, Peak Prices

• Temperature: Average highs around 7°C, lows around 3–5°C 
• Light: 24-hour daylight 
• Ships sailing: The most departures of the year

July is the busiest and most flexible month. Sea ice has pulled back far enough that ships can reach the remote north and east, landings are straightforward, and the weather is as settled as it ever gets — rain falls on only around 15–19% of days, though cloud cover is high, hanging over the archipelago 65–73% of the time. It’s not a sunny destination in the way people picture; it’s a bright grey one.

Wildlife in July is broad rather than concentrated. Bird cliffs are still active. Walruses haul out at Moffen Island and Poolepynten. Fin whales appear on the continental shelf north of Spitsbergen. Belugas move along glacier fronts in the fjords. Polar bears are still around, but by July many have followed the ice north or are foraging along coastlines rather than hunting on sea ice — the encounters are more scattered and less picture-perfect than in June.

The trade-off is cost and company. Peak season pricing in July and August runs roughly 20–40% above shoulder months, and popular anchorages see more ships.

Book July if: you want maximum choice of itineraries and the widest geographical reach, and you’re not chasing sea-ice bear photography.

August: Circumnavigation Season and Green Tundra

• Temperature: 0°C to 8°C 
• Light: Midnight sun ends around 22 August; real nights return quickly after 
• Ships sailing: Peak season continues

This was the month I went on my Arctic cruise. We had a few sunny days but also gloomy and grey skies on certain days. For hikers, August is the best month to go tramping around Svalbard. The shores are completely snow-free, the tundra is at its most colourful, and by late August it starts turning gold and rust. 

It’s also the strongest month for a full circumnavigation of Spitsbergen — the sea ice minimum typically falls in late August or September, which is when ships can complete the loop through Hinlopen Strait, past the vast Austfonna ice cap on Nordaustlandet, and back down the west coast.

Austfonna deserves a mention on its own. It’s Europe’s largest ice cap by volume, and in warm conditions its 200km-long ice front at Bråsvellbreen produces dozens of meltwater waterfalls pouring straight off the ice wall into the sea. It is one of the most surreal things I’ve seen anywhere, and you generally need late-season ice conditions to get there.

The catch: most migratory birds leave from mid-August, so the cliffs go quiet. If seabirds are your priority, sail before the 15th.

Book August if: you want a circumnavigation, serious hiking, autumn colour, and the best odds of reaching Nordaustlandet.

September: Golden Light, Whales and the Season’s Last Word

• Temperature: −5°C to +5°C 
• Light: Midnight sun over; long golden hours and the first proper darkness 
• Ships sailing: Fewer departures, dropping off through the month

September is the photographer’s month, and it’s badly underrated. After a summer of unrelenting flat daylight, the sun finally dips and Svalbard gets sunrises and sunsets that last for hours. The tundra is copper-coloured. First snow dusts the peaks. And because sea ice is still at or near its minimum, the far-flung corners of the archipelago remain reachable well into the month.

It’s also the best whale window. Whales arrive from late spring and stay through autumn, and by September the season’s feeding has drawn in humpbacks, minkes, fin whales and, with luck, blue whales — sightings often happen close to Longyearbyen, along the southern end of Prins Karls Forland. There’s a real chance of aurora in late September too, once darkness returns.

Prices drop. Ships thin out. Weather gets rougher.

Book September if: you’re a photographer, a whale person, or you want the archipelago mostly to yourself.

Skip it if: seabirds or guaranteed calm crossings matter to you.

What About Winter?

Svalbard is spectacular between November and March — polar night runs roughly from mid-November to late January, and the sun returns to Longyearbyen on 8 March, celebrated with the Solfest — but there are no expedition cruises. Winter here is snowmobiles, dog sledding, ice caves and northern lights, based out of Longyearbyen. Worth a separate trip; not a cruise.

New Regulations 

If you last looked at Svalbard a few years ago, some of your assumptions are out of date. New environmental regulations came into force on 1 January 2025, and they genuinely affect what your voyage looks like:

• Polar bear distances: minimum 300 metres year-round, increasing to 500 metres from 1 March to 30 June. Notably, these distance rules don’t apply on pack ice beyond 12 nautical miles from shore.
• Passenger cap: a maximum of 200 passengers for vessels landing in protected areas.
• Designated landing sites: landings in protected areas are restricted to a set list of mapped locations.
• Walruses: stay 150m from haul-out sites; max 5 knots within 300m.
• Bird cliffs: 5-knot speed limit within 500m, and no drones within 500m, from 1 April to 31 August.
• Fast ice: breaking it is now banned outright.

Two practical consequences.

• First, if photographing bears at closer range matters to you, a July–September departure has a lower minimum distance than a spring one, and a ship that ventures onto offshore pack ice has more latitude than one hugging the coast.
• Second, big ships have lost access to a lot of Svalbard. The 200-passenger cap has made small vessels not just nicer but functionally necessary for the good stuff.

Choosing the Right Ship for Your Month

Ship size matters more here than almost anywhere. Fewer passengers means faster Zodiac turnarounds, more landings per day, less waiting in a queue in your life jacket, and access to sites larger vessels simply can’t use.

At the smallest end, you’re looking at charter-style yachts and true expedition vessels carrying 12 to 50 guests. This is where the experience changes character entirely — you’re not a cabin number, you’re one of a small group whose day genuinely gets rewritten when a bear appears. 

Aqua Expeditions runs their Arctic cruises aboard Aqua Lares, a 77-metre icebreaker superyacht carrying just 30 guests with 32 crew, sailing June through September with options from 5 to 14 nights, covering fjords like Liefdefjorden and Raudfjord, the whaling-era remains at Gravneset and Smeerenburg, plus kayaking under glacier fronts. That guest-to-crew ratio and the icebreaking capability are exactly the combination that makes the late-season, ice-dependent itineraries realistic.

Whatever you choose, the questions worth asking any operator are the same:

1. How many guests, and how many Zodiacs?
2. Is kayaking included or an expensive add-on?
3. What’s the expedition team’s ratio of guides to guests, and what’s their Svalbard experience specifically?
4. Does the itinerary depend on ice conditions you’re realistically likely to get in your month?
5. Ice class — can this ship actually push into loose pack ice, or only sail beside it?

What It Costs

Budget ranges shift constantly, but as a working guide for 2026:

• 6–8 day voyages: roughly $5,000–$10,000 per person
• 9–12 day voyages: roughly $8,000–15,000
• 13–15 days: $10,000 and up

Peak July–August departures carry that 20–40% premium; late May, early June and September can save you 20–30%. Fares usually include all meals, Zodiac excursions, guides, lectures and loaner boots and parkas. They usually exclude international flights, pre- and post-cruise hotels, alcohol, gratuities (£10–15 per day is standard), travel insurance and sometimes kayaking.

One line item people forget: you will almost certainly need a night in Longyearbyen before and after, and Longyearbyen is not cheap.

Getting There and Practical Bits

Longyearbyen is served by SAS and Norwegian, flying from Oslo (about 3 hours) and via Tromsø (about 1.5 hours). In peak season there are several flights a day; outside it, a few a week. Book the flight before the cruise, not the other way round — seats sell out.

Svalbard sits outside the Schengen area, so bring your passport even if you’re flying domestically within Norway. Build in a buffer day before embarkation; a missed connection in Oslo can cost you the whole trip.

Packing, briefly: the ship supplies the parka and rubber boots on most voyages, so your job is layers. Merino base layers, a proper mid-layer fleece, waterproof trousers, warm hat, buff, two pairs of gloves (one thin for camera work, one thick), and sunglasses — the glare off snow and water at these latitudes is fierce. Bring a blackout eye mask for the midnight sun; I cannot stress this enough. And more memory cards than you think, plus a dry bag for the Zodiac.

Is Svalbard Worth It With Kids?

Most Svalbard expedition operators set a minimum age somewhere between 6 and 12, and honestly, the ideal age is older than you’d think — the days involve long stretches of scanning empty horizon, and the payoff requires patience. 

Around 10 and up, it’s phenomenal: sea ice, glaciology, whaling history, Arctic ecology, all of it walking straight into a worldschooling curriculum. Check the operator’s minimum age before you fall in love with an itinerary, and pick a smaller ship where a kid can spend time on the bridge with the crew.

So, When Should You Go?

If you want my honest ranking after sailing here: late June first, for the combination of ice, birds and access. Early August second, for the light and the whales and the emptiness. Late July third, for reach and reliability.

What I’d avoid is booking on price alone without checking what that week actually offers. A cheap late-May departure is a beautiful trip if you want ice and don’t mind a short route — and a disappointment if you were picturing tundra hikes and puffins. A pricey mid-August circumnavigation is extraordinary if you want Nordaustlandet — and frustrating if you booked it for bird cliffs that emptied a week before you arrived.

Svalbard doesn’t hand you a guaranteed experience the way a resort does. It hands you weather, ice and luck. But get the timing right, and you’ll be standing on a deck at midnight in flat white light watching something most people only ever see on a screen — and you’ll understand why some of us keep going back to the cold places.

Further Reading

Thanks for reading this far! If there’s one thing to take from all of this, it’s that the best time to visit Svalbard for an Arctic cruise depends entirely on what you want to see, not what’s cheapest that week. Get the month right and the rest sorts itself out, whether that’s a bear walking past at midnight, a cliff full of guillemots, or a whale surfacing off the bow.

If you’ve got a Svalbard trip in the works, or you’ve already been and have your own version of that story, drop it in the comments. I read every one, and I’m always curious what other people got lucky with, or didn’t.

For now, here are a few more cold-weather guides worth falling into if you’re not done reading yet. Svalbard is a great place to start, but it’s far from the only icy corner of the world worth planning a trip around:

• Svalbard Landscapes
• Arctic Expedition Highlights
• How to Plan Your Polar Cruise
• Best Travel Insurance
• What’s It Like to Go on a Svalbard Cruise?
• Greenland Travel Guide
• 13 Cool Things to Do in Ilulissat, Greenland
• My Complete Iceland Travel Guide
• Northern Lights in Iceland
• My Iceland Packing List
• 10 Cool Things to Do in Nuuk, Greenland
• My Iceland Ring Road Itinerary

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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Everyone thinks Orlando is all about Disney and theme parks Here’s our version with springs, cypress swamps and wild Florida — our recommended 3-day Orlando itinerary.

It comes as a surprise to many that Orlando is not all about Disney and mega theme parks. The Orlando we found is sprinkled with natural springs boasting spearmint waters and pristine national parks rich with wildlife. The truth is that Central Florida is home to one of the most pristine natural wilderness areas in the United States, and Orlando just happens to sit on top of it. 

We came to Orlando the way most families do — with a plan to visit theme parks and a rental car — and left with so many surprising experiences: from swimming with manatees to floating down a lazy river and spotting spoonbills in the wild. 

Below is everything I’d tell a friend planning 72 hours in Orlando: where to swim, where to eat, how to get around without losing your mind, and where to sleep so you’re near the good stuff. You’re welcome!

Weekend in Orlando Itinerary

Three days is enough to see three very different faces of Central Florida, and the trick is to organise them geographically rather than by theme. Orlando sprawls, and the difference between a lovely day and a wasted one is usually forty minutes of unnecessary driving.

Day one brings you north into spring country and the old citrus towns. Day two keeps you central, in the leafy lake districts and food neighbourhoods most visitors never find. Day three lead you down south into cypress swamp, prairie and cattle country.

Nature lovers get springs, wetlands and wildlife drives. Foodies get a Michelin-listed dining scene that has quietly become one of the most interesting in the South. Culture seekers get Tiffany glass, murals and a 1930s carillon tower. History buffs get sugar mills and Space Age hardware. And if someone in your group genuinely does want a rollercoaster, the parks aren’t going anywhere.

Orlando Itinerary Day 1: Spring Country & the Citrus Towns

Base yourself in central Orlando and prepare to drive north. Everything on today’s list sits within a 45-minute radius of downtown, in the belt of sandhills and blackwater creeks between Apopka and Sanford. Start early. I mean genuinely early — the springs work on a capacity system and the gates close when the lots fill.

Visiting in winter? Swap this entire day for a trip to Crystal River and swim with wild manatees instead. It’s the only place in the US where you can legally do it, and between December and February it’s the single best wildlife experience in Florida. It’s a two-hour drive each way and a 5:30 a.m. start, so it genuinely needs a day of its own — you can’t bolt it onto the springs. Full details in the day trips section below.

Swim in the Spring Run at Wekiwa Springs State Park

Wekiwa Springs is the easiest introduction to Florida’s spring system and, in my opinion, the most beautiful one this close to a major city. Millions of gallons of groundwater push up through the limestone here every day, filling a wide sandy-bottomed swimming basin that holds steady at 72°F (22°C) year-round. 

Beyond the swimming area, the water gathers itself into the Wekiva River and slides off into a corridor of cypress, palm and oak that is protected all the way to the St. Johns. Rent a kayak or canoe at the concession and paddle upstream — you’ll pass turtles stacked on logs like dinner plates, anhingas drying their wings, and if you’re lucky, a river otter working the bank.

There are also miles of hiking, biking and horse trails climbing away from the water into sandhill and scrub, which is a landscape most visitors to Florida never see: bone-white sand, wiregrass, longleaf pine, gopher tortoise burrows.

Practical details: The park opens at 8 a.m. until sundown, 365 days a year. Entry is $6 per vehicle for two to eight people, $4 for a single-occupant vehicle, and $2 if you arrive on foot or by bike. Crucially, Wekiwa now runs a day-use reservation system because the park hits its vehicle capacity almost daily in summer — book ahead at reserve.floridastateparks.org.

Float Down Rock Springs at Kelly Park

If you only do one water activity in Orlando, make it this. Rock Springs isn’t a swimming hole so much as a natural lazy river — the spring emerges from a rock face at the north end of Kelly Park and runs about three-quarters of a mile through a shaded channel of ferns and cypress roots before spilling out into the Rock Springs Run. You get in at the top with a float, and the current does the rest.

The water is startling: 68°F (20°C) year-round, so clear the sandy bottom looks about a foot away when it’s actually five, and green-gold where the sunlight comes through the canopy. The run takes 15 to 20 minutes, and then everyone walks the path back up and does it again. And again. We lost an entire day to it and I’d lose another.

Practical details: Entry is $5 per vehicle, cash or card with photo ID. Orange County caps admission at 280 vehicles in the morning plus another 50 after 1 p.m., and in peak season cars start queuing at the gate before 5 a.m. Check the county park page for live capacity. There are no tube rentals inside the park — pick one up from a roadside vendor on the way in, and note that floats must be under five feet. No pets, no alcohol.

Drive the Lake Apopka Wildlife Drive

This is my single favourite thing to do in Orlando and it costs nothing. Lake Apopka was, for decades, an environmental disaster — muck farms on the north shore poisoned the lake so badly it became a national case study. What’s happened since is one of Florida’s great success stories. The farmland was re-flooded and turned into a mosaic of marsh and open water that now supports an astonishing amount of life: 377 bird species have been recorded here, and in winter you’ll routinely see over 150 in a season.

The Wildlife Drive is an 11-mile, one-way crawl along the old levee roads through the middle of all of it. You drive with the windows down. Alligators lie on the banks close enough to make your kids go very quiet. Great blue herons stalk the shallows. Roseate spoonbills — improbable pink things with spatula faces — feed in the flooded fields. There are bobcats and otters and coyotes out there too, and enough people have photographed black bears on the drive that it’s worth staying alert.

Practical details: The gate is open on weekends and federal holidays only, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., with everyone required to be out by 5 p.m. Allow one to three hours depending on how often you stop, bring binoculars, and go as early as you can. Vehicles must be under 25 feet and no trailers are permitted. Details on the St. Johns River Water Management District site.

Cycle the West Orange Trail into Winter Garden

By mid-afternoon you’ll want to be off your feet and moving through shade, and the West Orange Trail is exactly that: 22.32 miles of paved rail-trail running from the Lake County line through Killarney and Oakland into downtown Winter Garden and on to Apopka. It follows the old Orange Belt Railway line, so it’s flat, straight and lined with live oaks for long stretches.

Rent bikes at Killarney Station or Winter Garden Station and ride the pretty middle section — the Oakland stretch skirts the edge of Lake Apopka with boardwalk spurs down to the water. The trail is free and open sunrise to sunset.

Winter Garden itself is the reward. It’s a genuinely charming small town that has been restored rather than themed: brick streets, a 1920s theatre, a clock tower, and the trail running straight down the middle of it with bike racks outside every café. Plant Street Market is the place to land — a converted warehouse full of local vendors with Crooked Can Brewing at the back, which handles the adults while everyone else works through tacos and ice cream.

Where to Eat on Day 1

• Chuck’s Wagon and the food trucks around Kelly Park handle lunch if you’re spring-hopping. 
• For a proper dinner, stay in Winter Garden — the Plant Street Market food hall covers every fussy eater in a group,.
• If you want a sit-down meal, the town has a growing restaurant row along Plant Street. Norigami, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand pick, is here, which tells you how far this little town has come.

Orlando Itinerary Day 2: Lakes, Gardens & the Neighbourhoods

Today you stay inside the city and discover that Orlando’s actual downtown is a chain of small, walkable, lake-strung neighbourhoods full of independent restaurants, botanical gardens and Spanish moss. Almost none of it appears in the theme-park brochures.

The whole day can be done in a rough loop between Winter Park, Audubon Park, Mills 50 and downtown, and if you time it right you can do a lot of it on foot.

Ride the Winter Park Scenic Boat Tour

Start with the best-value hour in Orlando. The Winter Park Scenic Boat Tour has been running since 1938 and has changed remarkably little: a small open pontoon, a captain with a microphone and several decades of local gossip, and a one-hour route through three of the Winter Park chain of lakes connected by narrow, hand-dug canals.

Those canals are magic. You go from open water into a tunnel of overhanging cypress and palm barely wider than the boat, sunlight coming through in coins, then pop out onto another lake lined with 1920s mansions, the Rollins College campus and a bald eagle nest the captain will point out. It is completely charming and, for kids, the perfect length.

Practical details: Tours leave hourly from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily from 312 East Morse Blvd, Winter Park. $20 for adults, $10 for children aged 2–11, first come, first served, no reservations for small parties. Cash is safest. Full details at scenicboattours.com.

Wander Park Avenue & the Morse Museum

Winter Park’s Park Avenue is the closest thing Orlando has to a European high street: brick, tree-lined, terrace cafés, independent boutiques, and Central Park running alongside it with a fountain and a wisteria that goes berserk in March.

At the north end sits the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art, which holds the world’s most comprehensive collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany. That sounds niche until you walk into the reassembled Tiffany chapel interior from the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition and understand what all the fuss is about. There are entire galleries salvaged from Laurelton Hall, Tiffany’s Long Island estate, after it burned in 1957 — leaded-glass windows, lamps, the daffodil terrace. 

If you’re here on a Saturday, hit the Winter Park Farmers’ Market first: 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. in Central Park’s west meadow, and one of the best produce markets in Central Florida.

Find the Egrets at Kraft Azalea Garden

A five-minute drive from Park Avenue, Kraft Azalea Garden is five acres of free public park on the shore of Lake Maitland, planted with enormous banyans and cypress and dominated by a marble exedra that everyone in Orlando has had their photograph taken in front of at least once.

Come for the birds. A great egret rookery of roughly 50 nesting pairs sets up here between February and early June, and watching them come and go with nesting material over the lake at golden hour is the sort of thing you’d pay for elsewhere. Nearby, Mead Botanical Garden offers another 47 free acres of boardwalk, creek and butterfly garden if you want to keep walking.

Spend an Hour at Harry P. Leu Gardens

Halfway between Winter Park and downtown, Leu Gardens is 50 acres of botanical garden on Lake Rowena with more than 15,000 plants — one of the largest camellia collections in the eastern United States, a formal rose garden, a tropical stream garden, bamboo groves and a butterfly garden. The historic Leu House Museum sits in the middle of it.

It’s a genuinely restful place, and after two days of springs and levees it’s a nice change of pace to walk on a path with signs on the plants. Adults $15, children 3–17 $10, under-3s free, open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily with last entry at 4 p.m., at 1920 N Forest Ave. Free parking.

Eat Your Way Through East End Market

If you do one food thing in Orlando, do this. East End Market in the Audubon Park Garden District is a two-storey neighbourhood food hall with about a dozen independent vendors, and it’s the beating heart of the city’s local food scene.

Inside you’ll find Domu (a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand ramen shop with a cult following), Gideon’s Bakehouse — the half-pound cookies with the queue outside — La Femme du Fromage for cheese and grilled cheese, Lineage Coffee Roasting, Winter Park Biscuit Co., Papi’s Burritos and Obon Chocolatier. Upstairs there are makers and jewellers and a bookshop-adjacent gift shop that’s dangerous for hand luggage.

Pedal a Swan Boat on Lake Eola

Downtown Orlando’s front garden is Lake Eola, a sinkhole lake ringed by a walking path, framed by the skyline, and populated by an implausible number of actual swans. In the middle, a fountain that’s been the city’s symbol since 1957 lights up after dark.

The swan boats are silly and completely worth it: $15 for a 30-minute pedal, up to five people per boat, available Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. from the boathouse at 195 North Rosalind Avenue. Card payment only, no reservations. Pets are welcome aboard, which delighted us more than it should have.

The Orlando Farmers Market takes over the southeast corner every Sunday afternoon, and there’s usually something happening at the amphitheatre.

Finish in Mills 50

Round off the day in Mills 50, the district where Mills Avenue crosses Highway 50 just north of downtown. It’s Orlando’s most creative neighbourhood — home to the city’s Vietnamese-American community since the late 1970s, covered in large-scale murals, and now holding more MICHELIN Guide restaurants than any other part of the city.

Walk the murals in the last of the light, then eat. Bánh Mì Boy, The Strand, UniGirl and Zaru all carry Bib Gourmands. Black Rooster Taqueria does a small, precise, chef-driven taco menu that locals will fight you over. Afterwards, Will’s Pub and Lil Indies next door are the city’s most beloved dive-and-live-music combination, and Ten10 Brewing handles the beer.

Orlando Itinerary Day 3: Cypress Swamps & Cattle Country

South of the airport, the subdivisions thin out and Florida gets very old and very flat very quickly: sawgrass prairie, cabbage palm hammocks, cypress domes, and cattle ranches that have been in the same families since before the state had a tourist industry. This is the day people don’t expect.

Kayak the Headwaters of the Everglades at Shingle Creek

Here’s a fact that reframes the whole region: Shingle Creek is the northernmost headwater of the Everglades. The water you’re floating on in Kissimmee begins a 300-plus-mile journey down through Lake Tohopekaliga, the Kissimmee River, Lake Okeechobee and the River of Grass to Florida Bay.

It also happens to be beautiful. The creek winds through a proper old-growth cypress swamp — buttressed trunks, knees breaking the surface, Spanish moss, dragonflies — and it is completely silent apart from birds. Look for alligators, softshell turtles, great blue herons, wood storks, bald eagles and river otters. Deer and wild turkey come down to the bank.

Practical details: Launch from Steffee Landing at Shingle Creek Regional Park, 4266 W Vine St, Kissimmee. The old Paddling Center building is no longer operating, but there’s now a self-service kiosk from Whenever Watersports on site — scan the QR code, unlock a kayak through the app, and go. Single kayaks run $19.99 for one hour, $29.99 for two and $49.99 for the day. Paddles, life jackets and whistles included. 

Take an Airboat Ride Through the Marsh

Yes, it’s touristy. It’s also the fastest way to understand a landscape that has no roads through it.

Boggy Creek Airboat Adventures runs out of Southport Park on the shore of Lake Tohopekaliga, and the marsh out there is the real thing — vast, shallow, full of birds and, in the warmer months, an awful lot of alligators. The boats skim over grass beds and open water at speed, then cut the engine so you can hear the marsh, which is the part I’d actually pay for.

Prices run roughly $34–$41 for the 30-minute tour and $54–$61 for the hour, with sunset tours at $62–$74 and night tours at $67–$79. The night trip is the one to book if you’re brave: the guide sweeps a spotlight across the water and hundreds of pairs of eyes glow back at you. They’re at 2001 E. Southport Rd, Kissimmee, open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. See bcairboats.com.

Walk the Boardwalks at Tibet-Butler Preserve

Ten minutes from Disney’s gates — genuinely, you can see the resort traffic from the road in — sits 438 acres of pine flatwoods, cypress swamp and lake shore with barely anyone in it.

Tibet-Butler Preserve has a small network of shaded trails and boardwalks running down to Lake Tibet-Butler, plus the Vera Carter Environmental Center with exhibits that are genuinely good for kids. It’s free, it’s quiet, and it makes an extraordinary contrast with what’s happening a mile up the road. Bring insect repellent in summer.

Drive Through Wild Florida’s Safari Park

If you’re travelling with children like we did, Wild Florida in Kenansville combines a drive-thru safari park with a gator park and airboat operation on Lake Cypress.

The drive-thru holds over 150 animals including zebra, bison, wildebeest, watusi and giraffe across open pasture that, in fairness, looks quite convincingly like somewhere else entirely. Admission is $35 for adults and $25 for children aged 3–12, and includes entry to the walk-through Gator Park with its 200-plus native and exotic animals — sloths, lemurs, capybaras and a resident white alligator. Animal encounters start around $45. Details at wildfloridairboats.com.

End the Weekend at a Real Florida Rodeo

This is my favourite way to finish an Orlando weekend, and almost no visitor knows about it.

An hour south of the city, on the banks of the Kissimmee River, Westgate River Ranch Resort & Rodeo is a working 1,700-acre dude ranch — the largest east of the Mississippi — ringed by something like 400,000 acres of protected wetland. Every Saturday night it runs a full championship rodeo in its own 1,200-seat arena: bull riding, barrel racing, mutton bustin’ for the little ones, the lot. They’ve been doing it longer than any other Saturday-night rodeo in the country. Around it there’s horseback riding through palmetto and oak hammock, swamp buggy rides, airboat tours on the river, archery, a trap and skeet range, a petting farm and a marina.

You can visit for the evening, but it’s a far better idea to stay (see below). Watching the sun go down over the Kissimmee River flood plain with a hundred miles of nothing in front of you is not the Orlando anybody sold you, and that’s exactly the point.

Day Trips from Orlando

If you can stretch the weekend to four or five days, Central Florida’s real luxury is how much sits within 90 minutes of the city. Here are the day trips I’d prioritise, in roughly that order.

Swim with Wild Manatees at Crystal River

Crystal River, on the Gulf Coast, is the only place in the United States where you can legally swim with wild manatees. Everywhere else, you can only watch them from a boardwalk. Here, Kings Bay is fed by more than 70 springs pushing out fresh spring water, and when the Gulf turns cold, hundreds of manatees move in to sit out the winter in it. You slip into the water with a snorkel, float still, and wait.

And they come to you. That’s the part nobody prepares you for. A one-tonne animal with a face like a wrinkled potato drifts up, rolls slowly onto its back, and looks at you with genuine curiosity. Important to know: This is passive observation, ie no chasing, no grabbing, no feeding, no diving down on them, no splashing. If a manatee chooses to come to you, a single gentle open-handed touch is permitted — but you never initiate. Operators are strictly regulated and brief you properly before you get in. Take it seriously, because this only stays legal as long as people behave.

When to go: Manatees are around in small numbers year-round, but the season that matters runs November 15 to March 31, with the biggest gatherings from December through February. Go on a weekday and take the earliest departure — usually around 7:30 a.m. — when the water is clearest, the bay is quiet and the animals are most active.

Practical details: Tours run about three hours door to door including the orientation video, boat time and roughly an hour in the water. Group tours start around $65–$85 per person and private charters from about $450 for up to six, with wetsuit, mask, snorkel, guide and parking usually included. You do not need to be a strong swimmer — the wetsuits are extremely buoyant and guides carry pool noodles. Children are welcome, though under-3s generally require a private boat.

If you’d rather stay dry, the Three Sisters Springs boardwalk in the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge lets you look straight down into the springs from above, and on a cold January morning the view is spectacular. Winter admission (Nov 15–Mar 31) runs up to $20 for adults, $17.50 for seniors and $7.50 for children 6–15, with under-5s free and lower rates in summer. Access is by shuttle from the Three Sisters Springs Center, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., last ticket sold at 3:30. Nearby Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park offers guaranteed year-round viewing of resident rescued manatees through an underwater observatory — the reliable option outside the season or with very small children.

Bird the Boardwalks at Orlando Wetlands Park

Half an hour east in the tiny town of Christmas, Orlando Wetlands Park is a 1,600-acre constructed wetland built to polish the city’s reclaimed water — and one of the finest birding sites in Florida as a result. Nearly 20 miles of levee trails, boardwalks and observation platforms run through open marsh, hardwood hammock and lake.

You’ll see alligators, herons, wood storks, sandhill cranes and — the prize — roseate spoonbills. It’s free, open sunrise to sunset Tuesday to Sunday at 25155 Wheeler Road, and the education centre runs tram tours on Fridays and Saturdays from 9 to 3. No dogs. Come at first light with binoculars and a flask of coffee.

Combine Rockets and Wilderness on the Space Coast

The single best day trip from Orlando pairs two things that shouldn’t coexist. Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge wraps around the Kennedy Space Center, and because NASA needed a buffer zone, 140,000 acres of coastal marsh, hammock and dune never got developed.

Drive the Black Point Wildlife Drive at dawn for herons, ibis, alligators and, in winter, thousands of migratory ducks and waders, then walk part of Canaveral National Seashore — 24 miles of undeveloped Atlantic beach, the longest stretch left on Florida’s east coast. A refuge pass is $10 per vehicle per day (or $25 annually); the visitor centre at 1963 Refuge Headquarters Road, Titusville opens 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.

Then spend the afternoon at the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex, about 45 minutes from Orlando, where the Space Shuttle Atlantis hangs at an angle with its payload doors open and the Saturn V lies on its side in a hangar the length of a football pitch. One-day admission currently runs around $67–$72 for adults, and it’s open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Check the launch schedule before you book — watching one go up from the causeway is a core memory.

Kayak Through Bioluminescence

Between roughly May and November, the Indian River Lagoon fills with bioluminescent dinoflagellates, and paddling at night turns your kayak into something out of a fairy tale — every stroke throws blue-green sparks, and fish leave glowing trails under the hull. July and August are the peak. In winter, from about November to March, the show switches to comb jellies, which flash rather than shimmer.

Operators like BK Adventure launch from Titusville and Cocoa between 8 and 10:30 p.m., with tours from $67 to $98 depending on whether you want a clear-bottomed kayak. Book within four days either side of a new moon — moonlight washes the whole thing out. No experience needed.

Cook Your Own Pancakes at De Leon Springs

An hour north, De Leon Springs State Park has a 72°F swimming spring feeding 19 million gallons a day into Spring Garden Run, a 4.5-mile paddle down to the wild, bird-heavy Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge. That alone justifies the drive.

But people come for the Old Sugar Mill Pancake House, built into a 19th-century mill beside the spring, where every table has a built-in griddle and you cook your own pancakes from pitchers of batter — around $9 a head for unlimited, plus $3 for blueberries, chocolate chips or pecans. Park entry is $6 per carload. Be warned: summer weekend waits run two to three hours, so put your name down, then go for a swim or a hike while you wait.

Glide Over Glass at Silver Springs

Ninety minutes northwest near Ocala, Silver Springs has been running glass-bottom boat tours since the 1870s, which makes it one of the oldest tourist attractions in the country. It’s one of the largest artesian spring formations in the world, pushing out hundreds of millions of gallons a day, and the water is so clear the boats feel like they’re hovering — you can see fish, turtles, ancient dugout canoes and old film props on the bottom 30 feet down.

You can also rent a kayak and paddle the Silver River, where you stand a decent chance of spotting the population of wild rhesus macaques that have lived along it since the 1930s. Park entry at the main SR 40 entrance is $2 per person, with under-5s free; short glass-bottom tours run about 30 minutes and extended ones 90. Note that swimming is not permitted here. See silversprings.com.

Orlando Weekend Itinerary Guide

How to Get to Orlando

By Air

Orlando International Airport (MCO) is one of the busiest airports in the United States and connects to virtually every major US city plus a long list of international ones, particularly from the UK, Canada, Brazil and Colombia. It sits about 15 miles southeast of downtown and 20 miles from the theme-park corridor.

Orlando Sanford International (SFB), 30 miles northeast, is much smaller and handles mostly domestic budget carriers plus some UK charters. It’s a far calmer arrival if the route works for you.

Fares swing enormously by season — the weeks around US school holidays are brutal. Search for flights here and set a price alert a few months out.

By Train

This is the one that’s genuinely changed in the last couple of years. Brightline now runs a modern, comfortable, high-speed service directly from a station inside Orlando International Airport down the coast to West Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale, Aventura and Miami — roughly three and a half hours to Miami with power, wifi and proper seats. If you’re combining Orlando with South Florida, it beats both driving and flying. For more on what to do once you’re there, see my Miami weekend guide.

Amtrak also serves Orlando (and Kissimmee, Winter Park and Sanford) on the Silver Service and Auto Train routes, which is how a lot of northeasterners bring their own cars down for the winter.

How to Get Around Orlando

By Car Rental

Let me be direct about this: for the itinerary above, you need a car. Springs, wildlife drives and preserves are not served by public transport, and rideshare fares to Apopka or Kenansville will hurt. Orlando is also one of the cheapest places in the world to rent a vehicle, so this isn’t a hardship.

Drive defensively on I-4, which is consistently ranked among America’s most dangerous interstates, and avoid it entirely between 7:30–9 a.m. and 4–6:30 p.m. Many toll roads in Central Florida are cashless — ask your rental company about their toll transponder before you leave the lot, because the administrative fees for driving through unpaid are far worse than the tolls. We always book through Discover Cars because it compares local suppliers alongside the big names and shows the full insurance picture upfront, the same setup we use for our 2-week Florida itinerary.

Search for car rentals in Orlando here!

By SunRail

SunRail is Central Florida’s commuter train, running north–south through DeBary, Sanford, Winter Park, downtown Orlando, Kissimmee and Poinciana. Fares are distance-based, starting around $2 for a single-county trip and topping out near $9.50 return. The catch: it runs primarily on weekdays, with only occasional weekend service for special events. If your weekend includes a Friday, it’s a lovely car-free way to get from downtown to Winter Park.

By Bus and Trolley

LYNX operates the region’s buses — over 70 routes, $2 a single ride or $4.50 for a day pass, payable through the LYNX PawPass app. Route 50 will get you to Disney Springs; other links reach the airport and Universal.

Downtown, the LYMMO bus rapid transit circulator is completely free and runs in dedicated lanes around the core, including past Lake Eola and the Dr. Phillips Center.

On International Drive, the I-Ride Trolley stops near most hotels and attractions in the tourist corridor for $2 a ride, with multi-day passes available.

By Rideshare

Uber and Lyft operate everywhere and are usually cheaper than taxis. They’re fine for hopping between Winter Park, downtown and Mills 50 in the evening — which is exactly when you don’t want to be driving anyway.

Best Time to Visit Orlando

Spring (March to May) and autumn (October to early December) are the sweet spots. Temperatures sit in the 70s and low 80s, humidity is bearable, afternoon storms are rare, and the springs are pleasant rather than shocking. March and April bring spring-break crowds, so aim either side of them if you can.

Winter (December to February) is Central Florida’s secret. Days run in the low 70s, the mosquitoes vanish, the birding at Lake Apopka and Merritt Island is at its absolute best, and manatee season at Blue Spring peaks. Swimming in a 72°F spring in January is more pleasant than it sounds, because the water is warmer than the air.

Summer (June to September) is hot, humid and stormy — highs in the low 90s with a heat index far above that, plus near-daily afternoon thunderstorms that roll through around 3 or 4 p.m. It’s also when the springs are most glorious and most crowded, hence the capacity limits. Plan water in the morning, indoor things after lunch. Hurricane season officially runs June 1 to November 30, with peak risk in August and September — travel insurance is not optional.

Where to Stay in Orlando

Where you sleep matters more in Orlando than in most cities, because the region is enormous and traffic is real. Broadly: International Drive puts you near Universal and the trolley; Kissimmee / Lake Buena Vista puts you closest to Disney and the southern nature spots; Winter Park and downtown put you in the middle of the food and lake neighbourhoods.

For families — and for anyone who wants a kitchen, a washing machine and separate bedrooms rather than a hotel room — Westgate Resorts run several villa-style properties around Central Florida, which is what we look for when we’re travelling as a family and not eating out three times a day. The reason we liked staying here is the marina — you can rent kayaks, paddle boats and pontoons and be out on the water without leaving the property, which is a very easy win on a day you don’t want to drive. 

Westgate Resorts offers family vacation packages with spacious suites that give everyone separate sleeping and living space. Rates start at $79, and the packages are priced per package rather than per person. For more information, visit https://www.westgateresorts.com/family-vacation-packages/.

Where to Eat in Orlando

Orlando’s dining reputation has been transformed in the last five years, and the MICHELIN Guide’s arrival made official what locals already knew. The city now holds six starred restaurants and fourteen Bib Gourmands, and almost none of them are inside a theme park. Here’s where I’d send you.

• Domu: The ramen shop inside East End Market that started as a stall and became an institution. The tonkotsu broth is the reason — 20-plus hours of pork bones, thick enough to coat a spoon — and the Richie Rich with pork belly and a soft egg is the order to make if you can’t decide. It’s a Bib Gourmand pick, it’s loud, it’s small, and there’ll be a wait. Worth it. Read reviews here.
• Black Rooster Taqueria: A tiny, brightly painted taqueria in Mills 50 doing a short chef-driven menu of tacos on house-pressed tortillas — the carnitas and the fish are the ones I’d order, and the chicharrón is not for sharing whatever you tell your table. It’s counter service, it’s cheap, and it’s been winning the city’s “best tacos” awards for years running. Read reviews here.
• The Ravenous Pig: Winter Park’s gastropub, a Bib Gourmand holder and arguably the restaurant that started Orlando’s whole independent food movement back in 2007. Expect elevated Southern cooking, a serious cocktail programme and their own on-site brewery. Book ahead — this is the one to save for your last night. Read reviews here.
• Se7en Bites: A Milk District bakery-café doing Southern comfort baking with total sincerity: biscuits the size of your fist, a chicken pot pie under a biscuit lid, and a chocolate cake that regularly stops conversation. It’s a breakfast-and-brunch place, it’s counter service, and yes, there’s a queue. Get the biscuit. Read reviews here.
• Sorekara: If you want to see how far Orlando has come, this is the proof: a two-MICHELIN-star contemporary tasting-menu restaurant in Baldwin Park, quietly doing some of the most precise cooking in the American South. It’s a splurge and it needs booking well in advance, but it’s a genuine destination restaurant in a city people still think can’t cook. Read reviews here.
• Plant Street Market, Winter Garden: Not a restaurant so much as an answer to the perpetual family problem of everyone wanting something different. Local vendors under one roof, Crooked Can Brewing at the back, communal tables, and the West Orange Trail running past the front door. Read reviews here.

Final Thoughts on a Weekend in Orlando

Orlando rewards anyone willing to drive twenty minutes past the exit everybody else takes. Spend three days doing that and you’ll come home with a version of Central Florida that has spring water, spoonbills, cypress swamp and a Saturday-night rodeo in it — and you’ll have barely queued for a thing.

If you’ve got a weekend and a rental car, this is the Orlando I’d send you to.

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Tokyo with a child in tow is louder, slower and infinitely more delightful than I expected. Here’s how we did it.

If you’re wondering whether Tokyo is too much city for a small child, I’ll save you the worry: it isn’t. Beneath the neon-lit districts and the 14 million people is a city that runs on wonder. Gachapon machines glow on every corner like tiny treasure chests, department store basements hide entire floors of food, and convenience stores become a nightly ritual of choosing the strangest snack on the shelf. Tokyo somehow makes room for both old and new: with high-rises and ultra-modern malls juxtaposed against peaceful shrines and gardens.

I’ve traveled Japan four times and brought my daughter here when she was just four years old. She rode the Shinkansen with her face pressed to the glass, ate ramen with more enthusiasm than skill, and still talks about it years later. Tokyo rewards curious kids in a way few big cities do: it’s safe, ridiculously clean, easy to navigate once you crack the train system, and full of small delights designed for exactly their eye level. Here’s a look at what’s it like to travel Tokyo with kids.

How Our Tokyo Family Trip Went

Arriving in Tokyo: The First Feeling of the City

Our flight to Tokyo was long and we landed jetlagged, dragging too much luggage between us. My husband and I had been to Tokyo before, so we knew what was coming. Kaleya didn’t. I watched her go quiet on the train into the city, forehead against the window, and I remembered doing exactly the same thing years ago.

What always gets me about Tokyo isn’t the size of it. It’s the sound. Vending machines humming on every corner. Train doors chiming shut at the exact second they said they would. Thousands of people moving around you at rush hour with almost none of the noise you’d get anywhere else. Then there’s the smell, which I’d forgotten and recognised instantly: cold metal in the station, a bit of cigarette smoke drifting from a doorway, something sweet and buttery from a bakery we hadn’t spotted yet.

We didn’t do anything that first evening. We walked, bought onigiri from the konbini downstairs, and let Kaleya press every button on the toilet in our hotel room until she’d worked out what they all did. That’s the thing about coming back somewhere with a child. You get to notice it all over again, through someone who’s seeing it for the first time.

If you’re planning a visit to Tokyo, or just want to learn more about Japan in general, Japan Travel Compass has detailed guides to help you plan your trip. But once we were actually there, we let the research go. We checked into our hotel, found dinner nearby, and let Tokyo introduce itself slowly, one street at a time.

The Beauty of Getting a Little Lost

We didn’t set out to get lost in Tokyo. It just kept happening, and every time it did, we found something better than what we were originally looking for. Tokyo is easy to plan for and hard to predict, the kind of city that quietly rewrites your route the moment you step outside a station.

One of those wrong turns led us straight into Shibuya Crossing at rush hour, half by accident. We stood at the edge as hundreds of people surged across from every direction at once, gripping hands without really deciding to. It should feel overwhelming, and for a second it does, before settling into something closer to choreography. Everyone moves, nobody collides, and somehow it all resolves in under a minute before the next wave begins.

Akihabara pulled us in for different reasons, its neon and arcades giving way to something quieter just one street over. We turned down a narrow side street on a whim and passed tiny shops stacked floor to ceiling with old electronics and figurines nobody seemed to be selling to anyone. It felt like wandering into someone’s obsession rather than a store.

None of this required much Japanese, which surprised us going in. We don’t speak more than a few basic phrases, and between pointing, gestures, and translation apps, we managed just fine, even down backstreets with no English signage in sight. A nod, a smile, a moment of figuring something out together without a shared word between us. Small exchanges like that ended up being some of the ones we still bring up now.

The Contrasts That Make Tokyo Special

What struck us most about Tokyo wasn’t any single place. It was how quickly the city could change character within a few blocks, or even a few steps. One minute we were pushed along by a crowd outside a train station, and the next we’d turn a corner into a silent residential street with potted plants on doorsteps and not another soul in sight.

That push and pull runs through everything here. Centuries-old shrines sit in the shadow of glass towers. A vending machine selling canned coffee stands next to a shopfront that’s been family-run for generations. Even the noise shifts on its own terms, the clatter of an arcade bleeding into the hush of a temple courtyard just around the corner.

We felt it most clearly from the top of Tokyo Skytree, one of the tallest towers in the world at over 600 meters. The elevator ride up popped our ears, and the view from the observation deck made the whole sprawling city suddenly make sense. Our daughter pressed her hand against the glass and started naming things she recognized from the last two days, proud of herself for remembering.

From up there, a grid of rooftops and rivers and train lines stretched out toward the haze where Mount Fuji hides on clear days. Tokyo looked still and almost orderly. Down on the street again, it was alive in every direction, the same city seen from a different height.

The Tokyo We Found Between the Famous Places

Some of our favorite moments in Tokyo had nothing to do with the places we’d actually planned to see. They happened in between: on a walk to catch a train, or while looking for somewhere to sit down for ten minutes. Tokyo rewards that kind of aimless attention almost as much as it rewards planning.

One afternoon in Harajuku, we ducked into an Owl Cafe more out of curiosity than intention. Themed cafes are something of a Tokyo institution at this point, with everything from cats to hedgehogs to owls, and this was one we stumbled on rather than sought out. Inside, the owls perched at eye level, close enough to reach out and touch, which was a genuinely novel thing to experience up close.

The owls were tethered to their perches, and while the staff seemed attentive to them, it left us with mixed feelings about the whole experience. Animal cafes in Japan have drawn increasing scrutiny over the years, and welfare standards vary a lot from one place to the next. We’d still call it memorable, but we’d also say it’s worth looking into how a particular cafe treats its animals before deciding whether it’s for you.

Experiencing Japanese Traditions Together

If Tokyo’s neon side is what draws people in, its older side is what tends to stay with you longest. We spent part of a day at Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple, said to date back to the 7th century. Walking up through the Nakamise shopping street beforehand felt like its own small ritual.

We also carved out time for a tea ceremony in a room set apart from the crowds. We sat close together on the tatami, nobody reaching for their phone. Watching the slow, deliberate movements involved in preparing a single bowl of matcha was a sharp contrast to the pace of the rest of the city, and gave us a real sense of how much intention sits behind something that looks, from the outside, like a simple cup of tea.

Later, we tried on kimono for an afternoon, something we’d recommend to any family visiting Tokyo. Getting dressed properly took longer than expected, with layers and sashes we never would have figured out alone. We ended up helping each other tie the ones we couldn’t reach, laughing every time someone got it wrong. Wearing it around the city afterward made the whole day feel different.

None of it felt staged for visitors passing through. For a few hours, we weren’t just watching Japanese tradition from the outside, we were inside it, and that’s what made the afternoon worth the extra layers and sashes.

Slowing Down as a Family 

Not every day in Tokyo needs to move fast, and some of our best hours were the slower ones. We spent an unhurried morning in Yoyogi Park, one of Tokyo’s largest green spaces and a favorite spot for locals to jog, picnic, or just sit under the trees.

From there it was a short walk to Meiji Jingu, a shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and set inside a forest of roughly 100,000 trees planted by volunteers from across Japan when the shrine was built. Passing under the towering wooden torii gate, the noise of the city dropped away almost instantly. Nobody said anything for a while. We just walked, side by side, listening to gravel under our feet instead of traffic.

One morning we watched sumo wrestlers train, an experience that slows you down almost by force. There’s no rushing a sumo practice. You sit, you watch, and you start noticing details you’d otherwise miss, like the discipline behind every drill and the restraint between wrestlers even mid-practice. My husband and I ended up making quiet bets, dead serious, on who’d win the next round.

TeamLab was a different kind of slow. The digital art spaces are built for lingering, with rooms that shift and respond as you move through them. We lost track of time in there, letting our daughter lead us from one glowing room to the next instead of following any set path ourselves.

These weren’t rushed, ticket-and-go stops. They were the moments where Tokyo let us catch our breath, and looking back, they’re some of the ones we remember most clearly. If you’re mapping out Japan with kids and wondering how much room to leave for slow mornings like these, our answer is: more than you think.

The Flavors We Discovered Along the Way

Tokyo might be the best food city we’ve ever visited as a family, and not just at the restaurants we’d planned for. Some of the best dishes to eat in Japan turned out to be the ones we found by accident, a bowl of ramen or a simple bento from a vending machine or convenience store that tasted far better than the price suggested.

We also spent an unreasonable amount of time in department store basement food halls, wandering past counters of perfectly arranged tamagoyaki, wagyu, and pastries that looked too neat to eat. It’s one of those Tokyo experiences that never makes the highlight reel, but it might be the easiest way to eat well as a family without ever sitting down.

One dinner stood out above the rest. A local friend brought us to Kisoji for shabu-shabu, and we ended up cooking thin slices of wagyu ourselves at the table, in a private tatami room that made the whole meal feel like an occasion rather than just dinner out. We kept passing the good pieces to each other before taking our own.

Harajuku gave us the opposite kind of food experience entirely. We tried the rainbow-colored cotton candy that’s become something of a local novelty, the size of a small pillow, along with an equally colorful grilled cheese sandwich from a nearby stall. Half the fun was seeing whose tongue turned the strangest color first. It wasn’t the best thing we ate all trip, but it was easily one of the most fun.

Between the ceremony of shabu-shabu and the sugar rush of Harajuku, Tokyo made it clear that food here isn’t just fuel. It’s part of the story, one we’ve kept going since getting home by hunting down Japanese recipes and trying to recreate a few of those meals in our own kitchen, with mixed results.

Finding a Home Base in Tokyo

Where you stay in Tokyo shapes the trip more than you’d expect, mostly because the city is so spread out that a good location saves you real time every single day. Tokyo isn’t one center so much as a cluster of them. We’ve done our share of driving in Japan on other trips, but Tokyo itself is a city built for trains, not cars, so picking a base near a major line matters more than picking one near any single attraction.

Areas like Shinjuku and Shibuya tend to work well for that reason, and happen to be central for sightseeing too. Both sit on multiple train and subway lines, both are packed with restaurants and convenience stores at every hour, and both put you within easy reach of the rest of the city.

For most of our trip, we stayed at the APA Hotel Tokyo Nishishinjuku, a modern hotel just steps from the subway. The rooms were smaller than we expected, but the location made up for it, and the onsen downstairs turned into a small nightly ritual after long days of walking.

We also spent a couple of nights at Ryokan Kamogawa Asakusa, a traditional inn near Senso-ji. Sleeping on futons laid over tatami floors was a genuinely different experience, quieter and slower in a way that matched the neighborhood around it. Someone joked that the walls were thin enough to hear the whole family breathing, and for once that felt more like a feature than a flaw.

If a hot spring stay sounds more appealing than a city one, we’ve also stayed at one of the best ryokans in Hakone, just outside Tokyo, and it’s worth doing at some point, even if it’s not part of the main trip.

Modern hotel or traditional ryokan, Tokyo has a way of making either choice feel right for a few nights. My husband was the one who pushed for the ryokan nights, and I’m glad he did, since trying both instead of picking just one turned out to be the right call. If you’re weighing the same decision, it’s worth choosing based on train access first and everything else second.

If You’re Planning Your Own Tokyo Trip

If there’s one thing I’d pass on, it’s this: don’t over-plan it. We tried, at first. We had maps open, routes drawn out, a rough Tokyo itinerary for each day. Then we landed, and all of that fell away within the first hour, replaced by whatever the street in front of us happened to be doing.

The trip only really came alive once we stopped trying to keep pace with our own schedule. Some of our clearest memories are the ones with no plan attached at all: the smell of something grilling from a stall we never found again, the sound of a temple bell cutting through traffic noise a block away, an entire afternoon that started as a ten-minute detour and never circled back.

We happened to be there in a season when the light stayed soft into the evening and the air rarely turned uncomfortable, which made all that wandering easy. If you have the extra time, it’s worth doing what we did on a later trip, and extending a Tokyo stay into a few days on the Northward Golden Route, which actually starts right in the city and heads north into a side of Japan you won’t see on foot.

If I’m honest, the moments that stayed with us weren’t the ones we circled on a map beforehand. They were the ones that happened while we were technically headed somewhere else, half lost, half paying attention, letting the city decide the rest. 

We still did our homework before landing, and Japan Travel Compass was a big part of that, its guides gave us enough of a feel for the country that we felt confident letting go of the schedule once we were actually there.

For more on exploring Tokyo and the rest of Japan, visit Japan Travel Compass.

Further Reading on Japan

Thanks for reading this far! I hope this look at our Tokyo family trip gave you a real sense of how it actually feels to spend time with loved ones in such a spectacular city.

Feel free to drop any questions in the comments below, whether you’re planning your own trip or you’ve already been and want to share how it went for you. Every time we visit Tokyo we come home with a new list of favorite spots, so I always love hearing what other families discover too.

Tokyo was just one part of a much longer love affair we’ve had with Japan, and if you’re starting to plan your own trip, there’s plenty more to dig into. Here are a few of our other guides that might help along the way:

• Tokyo Itinerary: 5 Days in Tokyo
• My Detailed Japan Itinerary: Two Weeks in Japan
• Japan with Kids
• My 4-Day Kyoto Itinerary
• Japan Off the Beaten Path: Traveling the Northward Golden Route
• Driving the Northward Golden Route in Japan
• Driving in Japan: How to Plan a Japan Road Trip
• Staying at The Best Ryokan in Hakone, Japan
• Japanese Food Guide
• 30 Easy Japanese Recipes to Make At Home
• Best Travel Insurance

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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Having lived in this beautiful country for seven years, let me share what I’ve picked up about renting a car in Spain, from Madrid to rural Andalusia.

Spain is one of those countries that truly rewards having your own wheels, letting you go far beyond the cities and into the real heart of the country. Sure, public transport is amazing and high-speed trains connect major cities perfectly, but the real Spain – whitewashed hill towns, cliffside villages, vineyard country – is best explored by road. 

After living in Spain for over 7 years, we’ve driven all over the country and learned a lot along the way. My husband is from Granada, Spain, and we’ve had a car here since we moved to Madrid in 2005. We’ve taken many weekend trips down south to Andalusia, east to the Alicante coast, north to Galicia, and even west to neighboring Portugal. Navigating the mega highways of the capital can be challenging; maneuvering steep mountain roads on manual cars is downright nerve-wrecking; and let’s not mention it can be very difficult to find parking anywhere along the coast during summer.

In this guide, I’m covering everything you need to know about driving in Spain and renting a car here. Whether you’re planning a weekend in Madrid or a longer road trip, you’ll know exactly what to expect.

Renting a Car in Spain

1. Car Hire in Spain – Should You?

We’re currently spending three months back at home in Spain, and are renting a car for our entire time here. It’s definitely not cheap but having a car is essential for us, so we decided to splurge on this. If you are just planning a 2 or 3-week trip to Spain, renting a car is generally affordable and makes a pleasant way to get around.

Spain’s roads are well maintained and genuinely easy to navigate, which makes driving one of the best ways to see the country at your own pace. With a car, you can pull over in charming villages, wander through wine regions, or chase coastal viewpoints that public transport simply does not reach.

Some of our favorite moments from these road trips came from exactly those unplanned detours: getting lost in Granada’s historic streets and landmarks, driving through quiet Andalusian villages, and stumbling on hidden Mediterranean coves that ended up being just as memorable as the destinations themselves.

When Renting a Car in Spain Might Not Be Necessary

If you are planning to just spend a weekend in a city, you can get by on foot or metro. In fact, having a car would be a pain as parking can be expensive and finding parking is all the more challenging. It is far easier and more convenient to get around by public transport.

To get outside the major cities, Spain’s high speed trains connect major cities faster than driving. And when trains don’t cover the routes, there are bus services that will serve even the tiny towns. That said, having a car is convenient and will allow you to reach rural areas and national parks. If you’re planning to visit areas like the Pyrenees, or Pico de Europa, or the Sierra Nevada, we highly recommend hiring a car to explore.

2. How to Rent a Car in Spain – Step by Step

• Check licence requirements – Spain accepts most EU, UK, US, Canadian, and Australian licences. If yours is not in Latin script, you will need an International Driving Permit.
• Book online in advance – I always compare providers through DiscoverCars because it shows fuel policies, deposits, and insurance options clearly.
• Prepare documents – Bring your physical licence, passport, and a credit card in the main driver’s name. Debit cards are often refused.
• Inspect the car carefully – Walk around, take photos, and check for scratches or dents before leaving. Confirm fuel and mileage terms at the desk.
• Understand insurance coverage – Basic insurance is included, but deposits can be high. Decide if you want extra coverage before pickup to avoid pressure sales at the counter.
• Confirm fuel and mileage policies – Look for “full to full” fuel deals and unlimited mileage. Small details like this save money and spare you surprises later.

Search for car rentals in Spain here!

Main Car Rental Companies Operating in Spain

Spain has both international brands and local operators to choose from. Hertz, Avis, Europcar, Sixt, and Enterprise are widely available, while Goldcar, Centauro, OK Mobility, and Record Go offer cheaper rates, though they often make up for it with upselling at the desk. Using a comparison site helps you filter providers by clear, transparent policies, which saves time and avoids surprises later.

Car Rental Rates in Spain

Economy cars in low season can start around €25 per day, but summer rates often climb to €60–80 per day. Weekly rentals usually bring that daily cost down, and deposits range anywhere from €300 to €1,000 depending on your insurance coverage. Prices tend to be highest at airports in Madrid, Barcelona, and Malaga, so booking early really is key.

Car Rental Prices at Madrid & Barcelona Airports

Additional Charges and Hidden Costs to Watch Out For

Watch out for young driver surcharges, one-way drop fees, and charges for crossing borders or taking ferries to the islands. Insurance upsells can double your daily rate if you are not careful, so it pays to know what you actually need before you get to the counter. 

Fuel policies matter too: “full to empty” deals look cheap on paper, but they force you to pay for a full tank upfront, which rarely works out in your favor. Always confirm the mileage limits, and check whether airport pickup adds extra fees before you book.

When to Book Your Rental Car in Spain

Demand peaks in summer, Easter, and Christmas. Booking two to three months in advance usually secures the best rates, especially for popular airports like Malaga or Palma de Mallorca. 

Last‑minute rentals in August can be double the price. If your itinerary mixes city stays with rural drives, my advice is to rent only for the road trip section, that way you are not stuck paying for parking in big cities for days you do not even need the car.

No matter where your journey takes you, affordable rental cars are available across Spain. Compare current rates, book your vehicle, and start planning your perfect trip today:

• Car rental in Malaga
• Car rental in Barcelona
• Car rental in Madrid
• Car rental in Alicante
• Car rental in Tenerife
• Car rental in Mallorca
• Car rental in Ibiza
• Car rental in Gran Canaria
• Car rental in Lanzarote
• Car rental in Valencia 
• Car rental in Seville 

3. Requirements and Documentation

Before you get behind the wheel, it helps to know exactly what paperwork and rules apply. Renting a car in Spain is straightforward, but missing a single document can quickly turn into a headache. Having gone through the process myself, I learned that preparation makes pickup faster and driving stress free.

Documents You Need to Rent a Car in Spain

You will need a valid driver’s licence, your passport, and a credit card in the main driver’s name. Most rental companies simply will not accept debit cards, so do not count on one. If your licence is not in Latin script, you will also need to carry an International Driving Permit.

One thing worth remembering: always bring the physical licence, not just a digital copy, and keep it with you while you are driving.

Legal Requirements for Driving in Spain

Spain drives on the right, seat belts are mandatory for everyone in the car, and children under 135 cm must use an appropriate car seat. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.05%, lower than in some countries, so it’s worth knowing going in. 

That limit drops to 0.03% for new drivers (license held under two years) and professional drivers, so keep that in mind if either applies to you. Police checks are common, and roadside inspections can happen without warning, so keep your licence, rental agreement, and insurance documents with you at all times, just in case.

Do Americans Need an International Driving Permit in Spain?

Yes, Americans need a valid International Driving Permit alongside their US license to drive legally in Spain. Rental companies don’t always check for it at pickup, but Spanish law requires it, and driving without one can mean a fine if you’re stopped by police.

Getting one is easy: apply through AAA (one of two organizations authorized by the U.S. State Department to issue IDPs, alongside the American Automobile Touring Alliance), in person or online for around $20. It’s valid for a year and must be carried alongside your original license, not instead of it. Get it a few weeks before your trip so you’re not rushing at the last minute.

Minimum Age & Payment Requirements

The minimum age for car rental in Spain is usually 21, though some companies set the bar at 23 or 25. Drivers under 25 will often get hit with a young driver surcharge. 

A credit card in the main driver’s name is required for the deposit, which can range anywhere from €300 to €1,000 depending on the provider and the level of insurance coverage. Without one, most companies will simply refuse the rental.

4. Car Rental Tips for Spain

Over the years, I’ve picked up a few habits that make car hire in Spain smoother and cheaper. These are not theoretical tips, they come from real trips, real mistakes, and a fair bit of trial and error, and they can save you real stress once you are on the road.

Choosing the Best Pick-Up and Drop-Off Locations in Spain

Where you pick up and drop off the car can quietly change the price of your rental. Airports usually charge more, while city center offices are often cheaper, though not always as easy to reach. If your itinerary covers multiple regions, one-way rentals are worth looking into, just make sure to check for drop-off fees in advance so there are no surprises at the end.

Airport vs. City Center Pick-Up – What’s Better in Spain?

Airport pick-up is the more convenient option if you are landing with luggage and want to start the road trip right away. City center pick-up can sometimes save money and avoid airport surcharges, but traffic and parking often make it less practical than it sounds on paper.

For my trip, picking up the car at Madrid Airport was the easiest option, it meant I could leave the city behind and start exploring almost immediately. By the time I finished my route through Spain and reached Malaga, returning the car in the city center actually saved both time and money compared with heading back out to the airport.

Malaga turned out to be the perfect place to end the road trip and finally slow down after days of exploring Spain by car. I spent time discovering the best things to do in Malaga before using it as my base for exploring Andalusia further afield, including hiking Caminito del Rey, still one of my favorite day trips from the region.

Always Do a Walk-Around Before Driving Off

Inspect the car carefully before you leave the lot. Take photos of any scratches, dents, and even the fuel gauge, and confirm everything with the rental agent before you drive off. It is a small step, but it protects you from unfair charges later. I once spotted a dent that was not marked on the paperwork, and pointing it out on the spot saved me from a dispute at return.

Returning Your Rental Car With a Full Tank in Spain

Most companies use a “full to full” fuel policy, so fill up at a nearby station before returning the car, and hold on to the receipt just in case. Returning with less fuel than you started with often leads to inflated refueling charges, and it is an easy way to lose money for no good reason. Planning your last stop near the drop-off point makes this simple, and it is one less thing to think about at the end of the trip.

How to Avoid Extra Charges

Read the rental agreement carefully before you sign anything. Watch for young driver fees, one-way drop costs, and insurance upsells, they are usually where the hidden costs hide. Check your route in advance too, so you are not caught off guard by toll roads along the way. Booking through comparison sites like DiscoverCars helps filter providers with clearer policies, so you run into far fewer surprises overall.

Mileage Limits

Many rentals in Spain include unlimited mileage, but not all of them do, so it is worth double-checking before you book, especially with local companies. If your road trip covers long distances, unlimited mileage is not optional, it is essential if you want to avoid unexpected fees creeping in at the end.

Taking Your Rental Car on a Ferry

Some companies allow cars on ferries to islands like Mallorca or Ibiza, but others forbid it outright or charge extra for the privilege. Always confirm this before you book, do not assume. If ferry travel is part of your plan, choose a provider that clearly permits it, otherwise you risk invalidating your insurance without even realizing it.

5. Car Options and Insurance in Spain

Looking back at my own car rental in Spain, choosing the vehicle and the insurance was never just paperwork to get through. It shaped the rhythm of the entire trip. The car decided how easily I could slip through narrow old town streets or settle into long stretches of highway, while the insurance decided how relaxed I actually felt whenever the unexpected happened.

Manual vs. Automatic Cars in Spain

Most cars in Spain are still manual, and automatics often cost more and sell out fast in summer. If you are comfortable with a stick shift, you will save money and have far more choice at the counter. If not, book an automatic well in advance, otherwise you risk being stuck without one.

What Type of Car Should You Rent in Spain?

Think about your itinerary before you pick a car type. Compact cars are perfect for narrow city streets and much easier to park. SUVs or larger vehicles work better for family trips or rural drives, especially in Andalusia’s hill towns. 

On my road trip, a small hatchback was ideal for weaving through Granada’s tight lanes, but I found myself wishing for more space once I headed out into the countryside.

Car Rental Insurance in Spain – What’s Covered?

Basic insurance is included in most rentals, covering third-party liability, but deposits can be high, and damage to the car itself is not always fully covered. Rental companies often push “full coverage” at the desk, and it is worth knowing this can double your daily rate if you are not paying attention.

I like to arrange my coverage before the trip even starts, and I always use my travel insurance from SafetyWing for that extra layer of protection. It covers things the rental desk simply does not. Insurance is not a luxury, it is what makes the whole journey feel more secure from the start. You can read my guide on travel insurance to find the option that fits your needs best.

Winter Driving and Snow Tires in Spain

Snow tires are not common outside the mountain regions. In winter, especially if you are driving through the Pyrenees or Sierra Nevada, it is worth checking whether chains are required, police sometimes enforce this during heavy snow. 

Rental companies usually provide chains on request, but you need to ask well in advance, not at the last minute. For coastal or southern routes, standard tires are fine year-round, so this is really only something to think about if the mountains are part of your plan.

6. Driving in Spain

Smooth roads on the main routes and clear signage make driving in Spain a pleasure, honestly one of the easier countries I have driven in. In this section, I will walk you through what actually deserves your attention: speed limits and tolls, emission zones, fueling, parking, and what to do if you ever find yourself dealing with an accident.

Speed Limits

Speed limits in Spain are clearly marked, but they can change fast once you leave the highways for rural roads. Highways usually allow 120 km/h, while urban streets typically default to 30 km/h, with 50 km/h reserved for wider multi-lane roads. Police checks are common, and fines can be issued on the spot, so it really does pay to respect the limits as you go.

Toll Roads in Spain – How They Work and How to Pay

Toll roads in Spain are marked as autopistas with an “AP,” and they charge based on the distance you actually drive. You pick up a ticket on entry and pay when you exit, either with cash, card, or the VIA-T electronic system, which speeds things up and often comes with discounts.

Most of the time, taking a toll road helps to slightly reduce your driving time, but road conditions are similar to the public highways. We usually avoid taking toll roads unless they cut down our journey by more than 1 hour.

Low Emission Zones (ZBE) in Spanish Cities

Low Emission Zones, or Zonas de Bajas Emisiones (ZBE), have quietly become part of everyday driving in Spain. Madrid and Barcelona lead the way with the largest zones, but plenty of other cities, including Valencia, Seville, Zaragoza, Malaga, Bilbao, and Palma de Mallorca, enforce restrictions of their own too.

When I lived in Granada, I saw firsthand how the ZBE changed the feel of the city center, quieter, cleaner, but it does mean drivers need to plan ahead rather than just winging it. Granada also has restricted streets in areas like the Albaicin and Sacromonte, where GPS directions can sometimes lead you astray. Rental cars usually meet the requirements, but it is always smart to double-check before you drive in.

Getting Gas in Spain – Fuel Types and Costs

Most rentals run on diesel, called Gasoleo A, while unleaded petrol is sold as Gasolina 95. Gasolina 98 is out there too, but you rarely need it. Fuel prices in Spain fluctuate regularly along with broader oil and energy prices, so it’s worth checking current rates closer to your trip rather than relying on a fixed number. 

As a general rule, supermarket stations (like those attached to Carrefour or Eroski) are almost always cheaper than the ones you find along the highway, sometimes by a noticeable margin, so it’s worth planning a fill-up stop accordingly if you’re on a budget.

Parking in Spain – Tips and Where to Park

Street parking in Spain generally uses a color-coded system, though the exact rules can vary from city to city, so it’s worth taking a moment to check local signage when you arrive somewhere new.

In most places, you’ll find:

• Blue zones (zona azul) – paid parking with time limits, usually the most common type in city centers.
• Green zones (zona verde) – typically prioritize residents, though some cities allow short-term non-resident parking if the signage permits it.
• Orange zones – found in some cities, usually reserved for residents only.

The specifics differ by city, Madrid runs its own SER system, while Barcelona and Valencia have their own takes on what the colors mean and how long you can stay. Rather than assuming one city’s rules apply everywhere, check the signage or a local parking app when you arrive.

Payment is usually handled at nearby machines or apps like Telpark and EasyPark, and inspectors do check regularly, so it’s not worth risking it. Underground garages are the safest bet in busy centers like Madrid or Barcelona, while smaller towns usually have free parking just outside the old quarter.

What to Do in Case of a Car Accident in Spain

If you are ever in an accident, stay calm and put safety first. Call 112 if anyone is hurt. Exchange details with the other driver, licence, insurance, and contact information, and take photos of the scene while everything is still fresh. Inform your rental company right away, and do not just wait until you get back. Police reports are often required, so contact the authorities before you leave the scene.

7. Safety and Awareness

Safety on Spanish roads is not just about careful driving, in my experience, it is just as much about staying aware of the small things that tend to catch travelers off guard.

Keep the doors locked, valuables out of sight in the boot, and if you are ever flagged down on the motorway, keep driving to a well-lit, busy location before you stop.

Car Break-Ins and Theft – How to Protect Your Rental

Break-ins usually happen in tourist hotspots and parking lots near popular attractions. Never leave valuables in sight, even for a quick stop, that is often all it takes. Use underground garages when you can, lock the car every single time, and keep luggage out of view in the trunk. Rental cars are easy targets, so a little caution really does go a long way.

Driving Safely on Spanish Highways and Mountain Roads

Highways in Spain are modern and well maintained, but traffic moves fast, so stay alert. Stick to the right lane unless you are overtaking, and keep an eye out for sudden speed limit changes. In mountain regions like the Pyrenees or Sierra Nevada, roads can turn narrow with sharp bends before you know it. Take it slow, avoid risky overtaking, and be ready for the occasional cyclist or stray livestock on the road.

Child Car Seat Laws in Spain

If you are visiting Spain with kids and planning a road trip, arrange a proper car seat with your rental company well ahead of time. By law, children under 135 cm must travel in an approved seat or booster, placed in the back unless the front airbag is disabled. Many families prefer bringing their own seat for comfort and reliability, and honestly, it is one less thing to worry about once you land.

Family travel is always easier when you feel prepared. For more on how we approach traveling with our child, you can read my guide on how we keep our child safe while traveling.

Are You Planning to Rent a Car in Spain?

Renting a car in Spain can give you the freedom to explore beyond the famous cities and find the places you would otherwise miss entirely. Some of the best moments on any road trip come from the unexpected stops, the quiet villages, and the scenic roads that are simply hard to reach by public transport.

When planning your trip, compare rental options through DiscoverCars to find the right balance between price, insurance, and rental conditions. A few extra minutes spent checking the details now can save you a lot of stress later. With the right car, a trip to Spain becomes more than sightseeing, it becomes a chance to discover the country at your own pace, on your own terms.

Search for car rentals in Spain here!

Further Reading on Spain

Thank you for reading this far! I hope you have a fantastic road trip through Spain.

What’s your planned itinerary, and what’s bringing you to rent a car in Spain? Let me know in the comments below, I’d love to hear about your trip and I’m happy to answer any questions you have.

During my seven years in Spain, I traveled to just about every corner of the country, so no matter where you’re headed, check out these articles to help plan your trip:

• 2-Week Spain Road Trip
• Living in Spain
• Spain with Kids
• 20 Things to Do in Málaga
• Weekend in Madrid
• Spanish Food Guide
• Las Alpujarras Travel Guide
• My Packing List for the Camino de Santiago
• Things to Do in Mallorca
• 10 Best Things to Do in Granada
• Best Wine & Tapas in Barcelona
• Weekend in Malaga
• How to Walk the Camino de Santiago
• Highlights of the Spanish Pyrenees
• Caminito del Rey
• Is Granada the Best Place to Live in Spain

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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If you’re planning a trip to the Arctic, let me take you through my Svalbard cruise and share the day-to-day life on the expedition.

From the very first moment we set sail from Spitsbergen, I was blown away by the landscapes surrounding us. Glaciers stretched endlessly across the horizon, pack ice drifted in near silence, and the midnight sun cast a constant glow, making the Arctic seem almost otherworldly.

The landscapes were only part of the story. What truly brought the Arctic to life was the wildlife. Walruses sprawled across remote beaches, seabirds wheeled above towering cliffs, and a lone polar bear moving steadily across the ice reminded me of how raw and untamed this place really is.

In this article, I will share with you my full experience, from our route to day-to-day activities and memorable wildlife encounters. You will also get a glimpse of life aboard the ship, see my packing list, and learn everything you need to know if you are planning to book a Svalbard cruise yourself.

Every Svalbard Cruise is Different

Before I dive into my day-by-day itinerary, it’s worth knowing that no two Svalbard cruises are ever exactly the same.

Unlike traditional cruises with fixed ports of call, expedition cruises in Svalbard are highly flexible. The expedition leader decides where to sail and land each day based on weather, sea ice, wildlife activity, and overall safety. Strong winds, drifting pack ice, or even the opportunity to spend more time watching a polar bear can completely change the day’s plans.

That means the itinerary below reflects my own experience on this expedition. If you take the same cruise, even with the same operator, your route and daily landings could be entirely different, and that’s part of what makes an Arctic expedition so special.

While the exact locations may vary from voyage to voyage, you’ll still experience the incredible highlights that make Svalbard extraordinary, from towering glaciers and dramatic fjords to Zodiac landings, abundant wildlife, and breathtaking Arctic landscapes. The adventure lies in embracing the unexpected.

Reserve Your Spot on a Svalbard Cruise

My Arctic Svalbard Cruise Route and Itinerary

I traveled on the Realm of the Polar Bear expedition with G Adventures, and had the best time! Svalbard was everything I’d dreamt of, and more. From the moment I arrived in Longyearbyen, the icy landscapes, roaming wildlife, and shifting Arctic light made it feel as though we had crossed into another world entirely. 

The conditions can be harsh, and organizing a journey like this requires careful planning, which is why traveling with a responsible operator is essential. This small‑ship expedition aboard the Expedition offers intimate access to remote shores and ice‑covered fjords, far beyond the reach of larger cruises. 

With expert‑led Zodiac excursions, wildlife encounters, and lectures that bring the Arctic’s history and ecology to life, the Realm of the Polar Bear tour provides an in‑depth, rare peek into Svalbard.

Below is the route the expedition takes, along with a quick look at what each part of the journey is actually like.

Svalbard Cruise Itinerary Map and Route Overview

Below is a map of our Svalbard cruise route, highlighting the key locations we visited throughout the expedition. It gives a visual overview of the journey and helps put the scale of this Arctic adventure into perspective.

Here’s a map of my Arctic Svalbard Cruise itinerary. Click to see it on Google Maps

How to use this map: Click on the top left of the map to display the list of locations, then click on the locations to display further information. To open a larger version in a new tab, click on the top right corner of the map.

Day 1: Longyearbyen (Arrival & Embarkation)

Arriving in Longyearbyen, the northernmost town in the world, felt like stepping into another realm. The air was sharp and clear, carrying the promise of adventure. 

In the morning, I dropped my checked luggage at the meeting point, where a local representative greeted us. I then headed out to explore the town, snapping photos everywhere I went as it was just so photogenic.

Search for flights to Longyearbyen here

Afternoon

Excitement gathered steadily as the group assembled for the transfer to the port. At 16:00, we boarded the Expedition, our sturdy vessel for the days ahead. Walking into my cabin, I met my roommate and we both headed out to the main lobby for our safety briefing. We got to meet the expedition crew and everyone was so excited to be on our way. The ship seemed both rugged and welcoming, ready to carry us into the icy unknown. 

Evening

That evening, over our first dinner onboard, conversation flowed easily among new companions, the hum of voices mingling with the quiet rhythm of Arctic waters outside. Exploring the ship and meeting the expedition team, I realized this was more than just travel. 

It was the start of a shared adventure into one of the most remote and breathtaking corners of the planet. The lingering Arctic twilight outside the windows was a reminder that the voyage had only just begun.

Day 2: Alkhornet (Into the Arctic Wilderness)

The first full morning aboard the expedition felt like waking inside a dream. We sailed toward Alkhornet, where towering cliffs, vast tundra, and glaciers created a breathtaking Arctic landscape.

Exploring by Zodiac, we discovered the incredible wildlife that thrives in this remote environment. One of the most memorable moments was spotting Svalbard reindeer wandering across the tundra. Their thick winter coats blended beautifully with the rugged landscape as they moved quietly through their Arctic home. Seeing these gentle animals in the wild was a magical first encounter with the wildlife of Svalbard.

We also spotted seals resting on ice floes, walruses along the coast, and seabirds soaring above the cliffs, offering a glimpse into the remarkable diversity of life in this frozen wilderness.

Afternoon

The ship continued deeper into the Arctic’s frozen expanse, passing glaciers, ice sheets, and rugged shores alive with bird colonies. Despite the dull skies, drizzle, and choppy waters, nothing could take away from the extraordinary scenes unfolding around us.

Just metres from our Zodiac, we encountered a rare and unforgettable sight. A group of polar bears gathered around a whale carcass, feeding in a powerful display of Arctic survival. Camera shutters clicked as we watched in silence, captivated by a moment few people ever experience. Our guide shared that in two decades of Arctic expeditions, he had witnessed a scene like this only twice, making it one of the most extraordinary encounters of the journey.

Evening

As night settled over the ship, the dining room filled with laughter and stories from the day’s discoveries. A few brave souls ended the day with the polar plunge, leaping into the icy waters while the rest of us cheered from the deck. I decided to save my own plunge for later in the trip.

Wrapped in the endless Arctic twilight, the wilderness around us felt alive, immense, and impossible to look away from.

Day 3: Ny-Ålesund (The Top of the World)

By the third morning of our Svalbard cruise, the rhythm of expedition life had fully settled in. Arriving at Ny-Ålesund felt like stepping into a living history book at the edge of the world. At 79 degrees north, this historic research settlement is a stark and beautiful outpost surrounded by dramatic fjords and glaciers flowing toward the sea.

Afternoon

Stepping onto the tundra, I found a landscape that was sparse but filled with historical significance. We walked past the iconic Roald Amundsen monument where the bronze bust of the legendary explorer gazes out over the land he once used as a base for his North Pole flights. 

It was a humbling reminder of the era of heroic exploration and the many expeditions that launched from this very spot. I also made a point to visit the famous red post box which is officially the northernmost post office box in the world.

Dropping postcards into the slot felt like a necessary rite of passage because they will eventually arrive home with a unique and rare Ny-Ålesund postmark. As we continued through the settlement, we spotted Svalbard reindeer grazing quietly on the low vegetation and an Arctic fox slipping gracefully among the rocks like a fleeting shadow against the stone.

Evening

When the day’s explorations drew to a close, we returned to the ship and gathered for dinner while the ice-covered seas stretched endlessly beyond the windows. The room was full of energy as everyone shared stories of the wildlife sightings and the unique feeling of standing at the very top of the globe. We watched the golden light hit the glaciers as we began our journey further into the Arctic wilderness.

Day 4: Krossfjorden (Fjords & Glacial Frontiers)

By the fourth day, the Arctic had already begun to feel familiar, yet each new fjord revealed another face of its wild beauty. We sailed into Krossfjorden, where glaciers descended directly into the sea, their frozen walls towering above an iceberg-filled bay. In the misty air, the landscape was cloaked in fog and fresh snow, creating an almost otherworldly scene.

Afternoon

We boarded the Zodiacs and crossed the icy waters toward the 14th July Glacier. Along the way, cliffs came alive with thousands of seabirds, including guillemots, glaucous gulls, and the much-anticipated Atlantic puffins. 

After reaching the shore, we followed a rocky moraine before stepping onto the glacier itself. Walking across the ancient ice was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, gliding over its smooth surface while carefully navigating deep blue crevasses. From the glacier’s edge, the view over Krossfjorden was breathtaking, with endless white ice stretching beneath us, carved by dark moraines and surrounded by towering peaks.

After leaving the glacier, we explored the surrounding tundra, where Arctic plants clung to the rocky ground and walruses gathered along the beaches and ice-covered shores, their calls echoing across the landscape.

Evening

As the day came to an end, we returned to the ship and watched the Arctic landscape drift past the windows. Moving quietly through the soft evening glow, the fjords and glaciers reflected the raw beauty and immense power of this frozen world, leaving us with memories of a place both peaceful and untamed.

Day 5: Magdalenefjorden (Remote Arctic Exploration)

The morning began as we sailed into Magdalenefjorden, one of Svalbard’s most scenic fjords, surrounded by dramatic mountains, glaciers, and a landscape shaped by centuries of Arctic forces. The calm waters and towering peaks created a sense of true isolation, offering a glimpse into one of the most remote corners of the world.

We boarded Zodiacs and explored the icy waters, where drifting floes carried walruses and seals resting in the pale Arctic light. Seabirds wheeled overhead, their calls breaking the silence, while the expedition team shared stories of the fragile ecosystem and the delicate balance that sustains life in this extreme environment.

Afternoon

As the day unfolded, we stepped ashore at Gravneset in Magdalenefjorden, a remote Arctic landscape blanketed in fresh snow. The conditions were as wild as they were beautiful, with snowflakes falling from the sky and the bay stretching out in front of us.

This was also where I took on one of the most unforgettable challenges of the expedition: a polar plunge into the Arctic waters. I was already shivering beneath my parka, hat, and gloves, but I knew I couldn’t miss the chance to swim in such a rare and incredible place.

As I removed my layers and stepped toward the water, the cold air hit instantly. My feet went numb the moment my shoes came off, and there was no time to overthink it. I ran into the freezing sea and took the plunge. For those few seconds, the cold disappeared, replaced by an incredible rush of energy and a feeling of pure exhilaration, the kind of natural high that stays with you long after you leave the water.

After drying off and warming up, we continued exploring the remote tundra, a landscape stripped bare yet alive with quiet resilience. Every ridge and hollow carried the possibility of a polar bear moving across the ice, rare but breathtaking if seen.

Back on board, lectures opened windows into the Arctic’s past and present, weaving together stories of exploration, indigenous cultures, and the sheer challenge of survival in a world where the land itself feels eternal.

Evening

Toward twilight, glaciers and fjords glowed faintly in the fading light as the ship pressed onward. Dinner was filled with voices rising and falling in excitement, travelers comparing sightings and sharing impressions of the wilderness. 

Outside the windows, the Arctic remained vast and unknowable, yet within the ship there was a sense of connection, forged by the rare privilege of exploring this remote frontier together.

Day 6: Magdalenefjorden (Glacial Fjords & Whale Watching)

After yesterday’s polar plunge, I woke up refreshed and ready for a different kind of day. We were staying in Magdalenefjorden again, but this time the focus shifted from ice to open water, and everyone on board had one thing on their mind: whales.

Afternoon

We set out in the Zodiacs and kept our eyes on the surface the entire way, scanning for a fin, a spout, anything. The glacier fronts were still there, occasionally cracking and calving with a deep, echoing boom, but today they were more backdrop than main event. 

Seals lounged on drifting floes and seabirds circled overhead, though the real thrill was watching the nutrient-rich water for signs of movement below. A few belugas surfaced not far from the boat, pale shapes rolling through the waves, and for a moment nobody spoke, just watched.

Evening

Back on the ship, dinner turned into a whale-sighting recap, everyone comparing notes and swapping photos. It was a quieter kind of thrill than the polar bears, but just as powerful, a reminder of how much life moves beneath the surface of these fjords.

Day 7: Festningen (Final Day of Arctic Exploration)

The final full day of the expedition began at Festningen, a remarkable coastal area of Svalbard known for its dramatic cliffs, layered rock formations, and ancient geological history. The exposed rock revealed stories from millions of years ago, preserving a record of the Arctic’s ever-changing landscape.

As the journey neared its end, every moment felt more meaningful. We set out in the Zodiacs, tracing the coastline and exploring the fjords while keeping watch for polar bears, seals, and seabirds. Each sighting felt like a final gift from the Arctic, a reminder of the wild beauty we had experienced throughout the expedition.

During our landing, the expedition staff shared the stories hidden within Festningen’s geology and history, revealing another layer of connection to this remote corner of the Arctic.

Afternoon

As the hours passed, the ship continued through the quieter corners of the archipelago. The surrounding tundra offered one last glimpse of Arctic life, from reindeer moving through the landscape to the possibility of spotting an Arctic fox among the rocks. Onboard, the final lectures brought together the wildlife, ecosystems, and human stories that shaped our journey.

Evening

By nightfall, we anchored off Longyearbyen, ready for disembarkation the following morning. A farewell dinner brought everyone together as we celebrated the discoveries we shared and the friendships formed along the way.

Packing for departure carried a bittersweet feeling, and we paused to enjoy the Arctic glow one final time. The wilderness outside remained vast and untamed, while inside the ship we shared a quiet gratitude for having explored, witnessed, and experienced this extraordinary place.

Day 8: Longyearbyen (Disembarkation & Departure)

The final morning arrived with a quiet sense of closure. At 08:00, we began disembarkation, stepping off the Expedition for the last time. Transfers were arranged to Longyearbyen Airport, timed to match our flights. Those leaving early moved smoothly onward, while others lingered a little longer, holding on to the last moments of the Arctic.

Search for flights from Longyearbyen here

Afternoon

For those of us waiting until later in the day, luggage storage at the port made it easy to explore Longyearbyen one last time. We wandered through shops, museums, and cafés, finding a gentle transition back to everyday life, each corner of the town carrying echoes of the Arctic wilderness we had just left behind.

Evening

By evening, our departures carried us away from Svalbard, each flight lifting us from glaciers and fjords into the wider world. Memories of polar bears, calving ice, and endless twilight traveled with us, woven into stories we would retell long after the journey ended. The expedition leader remained available to guide our onward travel, ensuring even the final steps of our adventure were cared for.

That morning’s breakfast was simple yet meaningful, marking the close of our voyage. With bags packed and hearts full, we left the Arctic behind, though its vastness and wonder remained with us, carried forward in memory.

My Encounters with Svalbard Wildlife

One of the most unforgettable parts of the trip was simply watching wildlife thrive in this remote Arctic world. Polar bears, of course, are the most iconic. Catching sight of one in the distance or watching it glide across the ice is both electrifying and humbling, a reminder that you are a guest in their domain.

Walruses were equally impressive. Their massive bodies lounged on gravel beaches or slipped gracefully into the frigid water, completely at ease despite our presence. There was a surprising playfulness in their movements, a combination of strength and curiosity that made every sighting memorable.

The cliffs and skies are alive with birds. Kittiwakes circle gracefully above the fjords while Black Guillemots cling to rocky ledges. Glaucous Gulls patrol the coast like silent sentinels, and Atlantic Puffins pop up in surprising bursts of color. Barnacle geese often gather on the tundra, grazing quietly as Arctic winds sweep across the Svalbard landscape.

Experiencing all of this during our Svalbard expedition reminded me how resilient life is in the high Arctic. Every encounter felt special, whether it was a curious walrus sniffing near our boat or the deafening cacophony of a busy bird cliff.

Food and Drink on Board

One of the joys of the expedition was dining on board. Every day started with a delectable breakfast buffet spread. Lunch was usually a lunch buffet with a selection of salads, main courses and fruit for dessert. Dinner was a proper multi-course meal where we could choose different main courses.

The restaurant crew was amazing, always smiling and eager to take our orders. The chefs clearly take pride in their work, and they were happy to cater to a variety of dietary preferences, making every guest feel looked after.

Drinks were just as thoughtful, with a selection of house wines, beer, and non-alcoholic options available at any time. Sitting on deck with a warm drink in hand while the Arctic scenery passed by made every meal feel extra special.

On Board and Cabins

Life aboard the Expedition was designed for comfort as much as adventure. Every cabin had its own en suite bathroom with shower and simple amenities that made the space feel welcoming. Ocean views, whether through portholes or windows, reminded us constantly of the Arctic outside.

The cabins were cozy retreats, furnished with wardrobes, drawers, and writing desks that gave us room to settle in. Daily service kept everything in order, so even the smaller spaces felt inviting. It was easy to feel at home while still surrounded by wilderness.

Between landings, the ship itself became a destination. Meals unfolded in the dining room, conversations spilled into the lounge, and quiet moments lingered in the library. The observation deck and sun deck offered open air perspectives, while jacuzzis and a 24‑hour tea and coffee station added comfort to the crossings.

Packing for a Svalbard Expedition

Svalbard is a place where the weather can flip in minutes, so make sure to spend some time packing.

I quickly realized that packing for the Arctic is less about fashion and more about layering, warmth, and practicality. Here’s what I packed and found essential:

• Outerwear: Heavy-duty insulated parka, waterproof pants, windproof jacket, rain shell
• Base layers: Thermal tops and bottoms, fleece mid-layers, merino wool shirts
• Accessories: Warm gloves or mittens, liner gloves, thick hat, scarf or neck gaiter, balaclava for windy days
• Footwear: Waterproof boots with good grip, extra wool socks, insulated liners, crampons or microspikes if hiking on icy surfaces
• Sun protection: Sunglasses with UV protection, high-SPF sunscreen, lip balm with SPF
• Gear for excursions: Small daypack, binoculars, camera with extra batteries, memory cards, water bottle, snacks
• Swim & comfort: Swim suit for a polar plunge, quick-dry clothing, comfortable clothes for relaxing on board
• Handy tools: Waterproof bags or ziplock bags for electronics and documents, headlamp or small flashlight, travel towel
• Health & safety: Personal medications, blister care, reusable hand warmers, first aid kit. Since Svalbard is remote and unpredictable, it is essential to have comprehensive travel insurance. Consider SafetyWing or a similar provider, and make sure the coverage meets your expedition’s requirements.

Packing this way will have you ready for anything, which is exactly what you need for the Arctic. With the right layers and gear, you can fully enjoy the Arctic, from the wildlife and glaciers to the endless landscapes, without worrying about the cold or getting wet.

The Ideal Time for Svalbard Cruise Tours

The best time for a Svalbard cruise is between June and August, when the season is at its peak. This is when the midnight sun stretches across the horizon, snow melts from the tundra, and wildlife thrives along the fjords and coasts, making the Arctic feel truly alive.

With milder temperatures and long hours of daylight, exploring the Arctic becomes both easier and more rewarding. If you want to plan your own adventure, check the full details on available dates and the latest Svalbard cruise costs to see what these summer expeditions have to offer.

Reserve Your Spot on a Svalbard Cruise

Further Reading on Icy Destinations

Thanks for reading this far! I hope my experience gives you a feel for what it’s really like to go on a Norway Svalbard cruise. Now that you’ve seen the highlights, you’re ready to start picking your route and planning your own adventure in this incredible part of the world.

If you have questions or want some tips about cruises to Svalbard, or just feel like swapping stories with someone who’s actually been there, I’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below, and we can chat about everything from polar bears to glacier hikes.

In the meantime, dive into more articles about the world’s cold frontiers. There’s so much to explore, and reading about these icy landscapes will make your own adventure feel even more exciting before you set foot on the ice:

• Svalbard Landscapes
• Best Time to Visit Svalbard for an Arctic Cruise
• Arctic Expedition Highlights
• How to Plan Your Polar Cruise
• Best Travel Insurance
• Greenland Travel Guide
• 13 Cool Things to Do in Ilulissat, Greenland
• My Complete Iceland Travel Guide
• Northern Lights in Iceland
• My Iceland Packing List
• 10 Cool Things to Do in Nuuk, Greenland
• My Iceland Ring Road Itinerary

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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For those planning a trip to Antarctica, here’s a detailed breakdown of what a day on an Antarctic Expedition looks like, based my own journey.

In over 20 years of traveling to more than 150 countries, I’ve seen some incredible places — but nothing compares to Antarctica. There’s a reason it’s called the last great wilderness. The continent is vast, remote, and unlike anywhere else on Earth, with towering glaciers, endless icebergs, and wildlife that thrives far from human interference.

But as breathtaking as it is, a trip to Antarctica isn’t cheap or straightforward. Getting there takes planning, effort, and investment. That’s why choosing the right provider and itinerary is absolutely crucial if you want to come back with unforgettable memories, and stay safe while doing it. 

This guide is my way of taking you along on my journey to Antarctica and helping you prepare for your own adventure. I’ll show you what it really felt like to wake up surrounded by icebergs, watch penguins shuffle across the snow, and sail past whales that seem larger than life. This is what a day on my expedition looked like and how you can plan your own journey to the bottom of the world.

How to Plan the Perfect Day on an Antarctic Expedition

First of all, this is not a casual beach weekend getaway. Traveling to Antarctica requires careful planning. The continent is harsh and unpredictable, and your days will only go smoothly if you choose the right itinerary and work with reliable providers. Making the right choices is what turns a demanding environment into an unforgettable adventure.

Today, there are more options than ever, which means you can create memories just like I did on my own expedition. I had an amazing time and I’m already planning my next trip. For 2026 and 2027, there are 186 Antarctic cruises scheduled, each with its own pace and style of adventure. Whether you’re dreaming of a short voyage or a longer, fully immersive journey, exploring these Antarctic cruises is the first step to planning your own story on the White Continent.

To make sure your experience is both safe and responsible, consider working with Antarctica Travel Advisors. These certified specialists design every itinerary to protect the fragile environment while maximizing your experience. With tailored routes, you can choose to visit the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, the Falkland Islands, the Antarctic Circle, and even historic Elephant Island.

A Typical Day on an Antarctic Expedition

The first time I stepped onto an Antarctic expedition ship, I quickly realized that daily life here was unlike anywhere else. Each moment was shaped by the weather, the wildlife, and the thrill of discovery. From the wake-up call echoing across the cabins to evenings spent sharing stories under the midnight sun, the rhythm of the day felt both extraordinary and unpredictable.

As I settled in, I noticed how the schedule balanced structure with spontaneity. One morning could bring a landing among penguin colonies, while the next might deliver an unforgettable Zodiac ride past towering icebergs. Occasionally, a whale would appear right from the deck, reminding us that every day here held surprises. Meals, lectures, and social hours blended seamlessly with adventure, giving us time to rest and reflect between explorations.

With that in mind, I want to take you through a typical day, moving from morning to afternoon to evening. Each part had its own highlights, and together they paint a vivid picture of what it’s like to live at the edge of the world.

Morning

The day began bright and early on an Antarctic expedition cruise. At 8:00 am, they gently woke us over the loudspeakers. The crew shared the latest weather conditions, updates on sea ice, and a preview of the day’s schedule. This wake-up ritual set the tone for the adventure ahead, reminding us that flexibility was key in such an unpredictable environment.

After waking up, we made our way to breakfast at 8:30 am. The spread was generous and hearty, designed to fuel us for the cold and active day ahead. There were fresh pastries and toast, bacon, sausages, scrambled eggs, and oatmeal topped with fruit. Many lingered over coffee, chatting with fellow travelers and swapping stories of previous landings.

By 9:30 am, it was time for the real challenge: getting dressed for the outdoors. Layering up in thermal gear, waterproof pants, heavy jackets, gloves, and boots was practically a workout in itself. Once everyone was suited up, the excitement built.

Finally, at 10:00 am, the morning excursion began. Depending on the day, we might step ashore to explore a penguin colony, visit a historic research station, or hike across icy terrain. Other days, conditions called for Zodiac cruises, where small boats took us closer to glaciers, icebergs, and wildlife. Occasionally, the crew organized daring activities like a polar plunge, where the bravest of us leaped into the freezing Antarctic waters.

Afternoon

By 12:30 pm, it was time to warm up and refuel with lunch. Meals were served buffet-style, but the quality was far from ordinary. There were fresh salads, hearty soups, pasta dishes, and sandwiches. It was a chance to relax, recharge, and share impressions of the morning’s adventures.

After lunch, the early afternoon around 2:00 pm often meant sailing toward the next destination. It was a quieter period, perfect for downtime. Many of us gathered in the lounge to sip hot drinks while gazing out at the surreal Antarctic landscape. The captain occasionally announced when whales were spotted, humpbacks breaching or orcas gliding through the icy waters. Cameras and binoculars were always at the ready.

By 4:00 pm, it was usually time for another excursion. Depending on the conditions, we might land on a new site to explore or embark on another Zodiac cruise. Wildlife encounters were common: penguins diving gracefully into the sea, seals basking on the ice, or seabirds soaring overhead. Each outing felt unique, and no two days were ever the same.

Evening

As the day began to wind down, we gathered at 6:00 pm for the daily debrief. The expedition team reviewed the highlights, shared photos, and outlined plans for the next day. This naturally led into lectures, covering topics like Antarctic geology, glaciology, wildlife behavior, and the history of exploration. These sessions helped connect the day’s experiences, giving us a deeper understanding of the environment we were lucky enough to explore.

After the debrief, attention shifted to dinner at 7:30 pm, which quickly became another highlight of the evening. Unlike the buffet-style meals earlier in the day, dinner was a multi-course affair. Menus changed nightly, with starters like soups or fresh appetizers, mains featuring grilled fish or meat with vegetables, and indulgent desserts. It was a chance to savor fine dining while reflecting on the day’s adventures.

By 9:00 pm, the social atmosphere shifted to the bar and lounge. We gathered for drinks, music, and lively conversation. Friendships formed quickly in this setting, as everyone bonded over shared experiences in one of the most remote places on Earth. Some nights, the party stretched late, especially under the glow of the midnight sun, a surreal reminder that in Antarctica, the day never truly ended. There were plenty of photos to look at, including some of the stunning Antarctic sunset.

Encounters with Antarctic Wildlife

Being in Antarctica felt like stepping into another world, one where animals ruled the landscape and we were simply guests. There were no fences, no platforms, no barriers at all. Every encounter was raw and unfiltered, guided only by strict rules that kept us at a respectful distance while allowing the wildlife to behave naturally. It was humbling to realize that here, everything happened on their terms, not ours.

Almost immediately, the penguins stole the show. They waddled across the snow with a confidence that made me laugh. Gentoo and chinstrap penguins darted in and out of the water, splashing playfully, while emperor penguins stood tall and regal in their colonies. Sometimes they stopped and stared, as if studying us just as closely as we studied them. Watching them move so effortlessly across the ice reminded me how perfectly adapted they are to this frozen wilderness.

Not far from the penguins, seals appeared more quietly, almost blending into the ice. I remember drifting past Weddell seals stretched out on floes, barely lifting their heads as we passed. Then there were leopard seals, sleek and powerful, surfacing suddenly and changing the mood in an instant. Even from a distance, their presence was commanding, a reminder of the raw food chain at work in these waters.

And then there were the giants of the ocean. I’ll never forget the moment a humpback whale breached right beside our Zodiac, its massive tail slapping the water with a thunderous splash. Orcas glided silently through the waves, their black-and-white forms cutting through the icy sea. Each sighting felt unscripted, a gift from the wilderness.

And above it all, the skies were alive with motion. Skuas circled overhead, sharp-eyed and watchful, while petrels skimmed low across the water, riding the wind with effortless grace. And then there was the wandering albatross, soaring with wings so wide it seemed to stretch across the horizon. Every encounter was unforgettable, and I bet you’ll end up taking just as many photos of Antarctica as I did.

Antarctic Expedition Itineraries

When you start planning your Antarctic expedition, the itinerary becomes the heart of the journey. I remember standing on deck as we sailed out of Ushuaia, knowing that each route promised something different. Trips can be as short as three days or as long as sixty-nine, depending on how deep you want to go into this frozen world. If you prefer to skip the Drake Passage, you can fly from Punta Arenas in Chile and start your adventure right on the continent.

If you can, I recommend spending at least thirteen days. The Drake Passage alone takes two days each way, and having extra time gives you more chances to step onto remote shores and really experience Antarctica. Longer itineraries that include South Georgia Island and the Falkland Islands are unforgettable. These are some of the only places where you can see king penguins in huge colonies.

From there, your route can take you to the Antarctic Peninsula, the Antarctic Circle, the Lemaire Channel, Elephant Island, and beyond. Each stop has its own surprises, from towering glaciers to playful wildlife, and no two days feel the same. You can even get a sense of what my experience was like in the photos I took of the Lemaire Channel. Every moment is shaped by the landscape, the light, the animals, and even the ice itself.

Choosing the right itinerary is more than picking dates. It is about giving yourself the chance to experience Antarctica fully and to leave with memories that last long after you return to warmer places.

How Do Toilets and Hygiene Work on Antarctic Expeditions?

Sanitation on Antarctic expedition ships is well designed, with modern bathrooms and flushing toilets available in every cabin and in public spaces onboard. When landing ashore, you cannot leave any waste behind. Expeditions follow strict environmental protocols: for bathroom needs during landings, sealed portable toilets are available and everything must return to the ship, nothing stays on the continent.

Showers are also onboard and heated, making hygiene relatively comfortable even in remote conditions. However, water conservation is key, so guests are encouraged to keep showers short. It sounds like a minor logistical detail, but understanding this before you go genuinely helps you settle into the routine without any surprises on day one.

What Do You Wear Each Day on an Antarctic Expedition?

Layering is absolutely critical for daily comfort and safety on an Antarctic expedition. Start with thermal base layers, add fleece or wool mid-layers, and top with waterproof, windproof outer layers. Insulated jackets, hats, neck gaiters, and sturdy waterproof gloves and boots are required to spend time outside.

Many expeditions provide loaner outer shells and boots, but plan to bring your own thermal, moisture-wicking base layers and several pairs of gloves for warmth and backup. Comfort inside the ship allows for casual, cozy clothing, but always have a warm layer handy even indoors, the air conditioning and the constant proximity to ice can catch you off guard. I learned pretty quickly that the difference between a magical morning ashore and a miserable one was almost entirely down to what I was wearing.

How Often Can You Shower During an Antarctica Expedition?

Most expedition ships offer hot showers in every cabin, but to minimize environmental impact, guests are encouraged to limit showers to just a few minutes, and often only every other day. Some ships may set schedules or suggest skipping showers on particularly busy landing days.

Personal wipes can be helpful for quick freshening up between activities. The cold and wind mean you won’t sweat much, so daily showers are far less necessary than on a typical vacation. Once you’re in the rhythm of the expedition, you barely notice, there are simply too many extraordinary things happening outside to spend much time below deck.

Why Are There Special Environmental Rules for Visitors in Antarctica?

Antarctica is protected by strict international agreements designed to preserve its pristine environment and fragile wildlife. Visitors must follow specific rules: stay at least five meters from wildlife, do not kneel or sit on snow used by animals, and never leave litter or even food crumbs behind.

Boots and gear are disinfected before every landing to prevent introducing foreign species. Kneeling or sitting is actively discouraged to protect the penguin highways, the well-worn paths that colonies use to reach the sea, and to avoid contaminating the habitat.

The rules may seem strict at first, but once you’re standing in the middle of a penguin colony watching them go about their lives completely unbothered by you, you’ll understand exactly why they exist. They ensure Antarctica remains wild for future generations, including yours.

What Do You Eat on an Antarctic Expedition?

Meals onboard are well above what you might expect in such a remote location. Breakfasts are hearty and self-serve, with eggs, bacon, pastries, and oatmeal. Lunches are buffet-style with salads, soups, pasta, and sandwiches. Dinners are multi-course and change nightly, often featuring grilled fish or meat, fresh starters, and impressive desserts. Good food is genuinely part of the experience, after a morning in the cold, you’ll appreciate every bite.

Final Preparation Tips for Your Antarctic Expedition

Before you set sail, a little preparation goes a long way in making sure your adventure is safe, comfortable, and unforgettable. Here are my essential tips to get you ready:

• Pack the right clothes: Bring serious cold‑weather gear. Think thermal base layers, fleece mid‑layers, waterproof outer shells, insulated jackets, gloves, hats, and sturdy boots. Layering is key to staying warm and flexible.
• Gear up properly: A good camera with extra batteries and memory cards is a must. The cold drains batteries quickly, so pack spares. Binoculars are also great for spotting wildlife from the ship.
• Get travel insurance: Antarctica is remote and unpredictable. Comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical emergencies, evacuation, and trip cancellations is non‑negotiable. You might consider SafetyWing or a similar provider, but make sure the coverage meets your expedition’s requirements.
• Learn about the wildlife: Reading up on penguins, seals, whales, and seabirds before you go will make encounters more meaningful. You’ll know what to look for and appreciate their behavior even more.
• Prepare your fitness: You don’t need to be an athlete, but some stamina helps. Be ready for walks on icy terrain, climbing in and out of Zodiacs, and moving around in heavy gear.
• Decide your budget and trip length: Antarctic expeditions vary widely in cost and duration. Decide how many days you want to spend and what you’re willing to invest. Longer trips often include South Georgia and the Falklands, which add incredible wildlife experiences.
• Take your time when searching for Antarctic expeditions and comparing options: For 2026 and 2027, there are 186 scheduled departures, each offering unique itineraries, experiences, and levels of adventure.
• Consider last‑minute deals: Sometimes travelers cancel, leaving room on cruises that may be offered at lower prices. These last‑minute Antarctic cruises can be excellent value and still provide a full experience.
• Plan your pre- and post-expedition accommodation: Most Antarctic cruises depart from gateway cities like Ushuaia or Punta Arenas. Consider booking hotels or short-term stays through platforms like Airbnb for a flexible option before or after your voyage, especially in case of schedule changes or delays.

With these preparations, you’ll be ready to make every day of your Antarctic expedition count. This isn’t just a trip, it’s a journey into one of the most extraordinary places on Earth.

Further Reading on Antarctica

Thank you for reading this far! If you’ve enjoyed reading about what a day on an Antarctic expedition looks like, you’re now all set to start picking your route and planning your unforgettable trip.

If you have questions, want tips, or just want to swap stories with someone who’s been there, I’m always happy to chat with fellow adventurers. Feel free to leave a comment below.

In the meantime, check out more Antarctica-related articles to get even more ideas and inspiration for your journey.

• Travel to Antarctica
• A Polar Plunge in Antarctica
• Sunset in Paradise Bay, Antarctica
• Cruising through Lemaire Channel in Antarctica
• Crossing the Drake Passage to Antarctica
• Antarctica in Photos
• Ushuaia: The Gateway to Antarctica

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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Over the years, I’ve visited more than 150 countries, and have tested countless eSIM providers along the way. Here’s what I learned about staying connected while traveling.

As a digital nomad family, we’ve learned that getting connected abroad isn’t always straightforward, and it’s not just about downloading an app and picking the cheapest plan. Coverage varies significantly from country to country, network quality differs between providers, and compatibility isn’t always guaranteed across devices. A deal that looks great upfront can quickly become frustrating if you lose signal at the wrong time.

The good news is that once you know what to look for, the process becomes much more straightforward. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the exact process I use before every trip, from comparing coverage and data plans for different travel eSIMs to checking compatibility and avoiding the common mistakes that many travelers make. By the end, you’ll know how to choose an eSIM for travel that keeps you connected from the moment you land until it’s time to head home.

How We Find the Right eSIM for Travel (Step-by-Step Process)

1. Pick Your Destination

I always start with one question: does this provider actually cover where I am going?

For a single country visit, I check that the provider covers that country well, not just nominally, but with strong network partners in the regions I am actually visiting. Multi-country trips need a different approach entirely. 

If you are hopping between France, Germany, and the Netherlands over two weeks, your best bet is to buy a regional eSIM that covers all the destinations you’ll be going.

We’re currently spending three months in Spain and I’m using eSIM Europe, which has been working well so far. Their plan covers dozens of countries across the continent and your phone connects automatically as you cross each border, with no switching, no setup, and nothing to manage on your end. 

2. Estimate Your Data Usage (Before Comparing Plans)

Once I know my destination is covered, I figure out how much data I actually need before I start comparing plans.

For light usage, maps, messaging apps, and occasional social media, most people get by comfortably on 1GB per day or less. A two week trip to Europe rarely needs more than 10 to 15GB total if you are connecting to WiFi at hotels and restaurants along the way.

Heavy usage is a different story. If you are working remotely, uploading content, video calling regularly, or using your phone as a hotspot for a laptop or travel partner, you will want AN unlimited plan. Just keep in mind what “unlimited” actually means, which I cover later in the common mistakes section.

If you are doing both regularly throughout a two week trip, a 10 or 15GB plan will not last long. In that case, look for a plan with a high speed threshold of at least 20 to 30GB before throttling kicks in, or one that is genuinely unlimited without a fair use cap buried in the fine print.

3. Compare Providers (Not Just Prices)

This is where most people go wrong. They open a comparison site, sort by price, and buy the cheapest option. I have done it too, and it is how I ended up with half a bar of signal in rural Portugal wondering what went wrong.

When I compare providers now, I look at three things specifically. 

1. How clearly they present their coverage. A provider that makes you dig through three pages to find the country list is usually hiding something. 
2. What their customer support actually looks like, because things occasionally go wrong and “send us an email” is not a useful answer when you are standing in a foreign city at 10pm. 
3. How transparent they are about data speeds, throttling thresholds, and validity windows, rather than just leading with marketing language.

For eSIM Europe, the coverage spans a wide range of countries, the plans are clearly laid out, and the setup is genuinely simple. You get a QR code by email, scan it, and your phone connects automatically when you land.

As with any provider, it is worth checking their specific plans against your itinerary before committing, since the right choice always depends on where you are headed and how long you will be there.

4. Check Pricing and Plan Structure

I evaluate price in context rather than in isolation, focusing on total trip cost instead of daily rates. Plans advertised as “$2 per day” often seem cheap but can reach about $60 for a month, which may cost more than a flat 30 day bundle from another provider. Cost per GB is useful, but only when data amounts and validity periods are comparable.

Cheap plans often hide key limitations in the fine print. The most common is speed throttling after a small data allowance, where data still works but becomes so slow that even basic apps like maps struggle to load. Others include restricted roaming, confusing top up systems, or validity periods that start immediately at purchase rather than when you begin using the service.

One detail that often catches people off guard is when the validity period actually starts. Some plans begin counting down the moment you purchase, regardless of when you travel. Other plans only activate once you first connect to a network. If you are buying an eSIM a week or two before your trip, that difference can matter a lot.

5. Verify Device Compatibility

This one is quick but non-negotiable. Not every phone supports eSIM, and even compatible phones can run into issues if they are carrier locked.

Most modern smartphones support eSIM, including iPhones from the XR onwards, recent Samsung Galaxy models, and Google Pixel 3 and later. But if you bought your phone on a contract through a carrier, there is a chance it is locked to that network and will not accept a third party eSIM. 

If you are not sure, check your phone settings or contact your carrier before your trip. Getting this sorted at home takes five minutes. Discovering the problem at the airport takes considerably longer.

6. Read User Reviews

Reviews are useful, but only if you read them the right way. A wall of five star ratings that all mention easy setup tells you the activation process works smoothly. It does not tell you anything about what happens when signal drops in a rural area, or whether customer support actually responds when something goes wrong on a Sunday evening.

I look specifically for reviews that mention real usage in the countries I am visiting, not just general praise about the signup flow. Complaints about slow speeds in specific regions, coverage gaps in the Balkans or Eastern Europe, or poor responses from support are the details worth paying attention to. 

Travel forums tend to surface these more honestly than app store reviews, which skew toward people who had an easy, uncomplicated experience.

7. Check Activation Process Before You Travel

Before I even get to the activation steps, I check how clearly the provider explains the process on their website. Good providers walk you through installation in plain language with screenshots or a short video. 

If you land on a provider’s site and cannot find clear setup instructions within a minute or two of looking, that is worth paying attention to. A confusing setup page usually means a confusing experience if something goes wrong after you have already paid.

Most good providers let you purchase the eSIM days in advance, install it at home, and have it connect automatically the moment your plane lands. That is the ideal setup. 

My rule is simple. Buy two to three days before departure, install it on home WiFi, confirm it is sitting in your phone’s eSIM settings ready to go, and then forget about it until you land.

Common Mistakes People Make When Using eSIMs

A few patterns come up again and again when people first start using travel eSIMs. Most of them are easy to avoid once you know what to look for.

• “Unlimited” does not always mean unlimited. It’s one of the most overused claims in the industry. Most plans labeled as unlimited apply a fair use policy after a certain amount of data, after which speeds are heavily throttled. It’s rarely mentioned upfront, so always check the high-speed data allowance before buying.
• Ignoring the coverage map. A plan can look great on paper, but real-world coverage often varies outside major cities. In some regions, signal can drop off quickly once you leave urban areas, especially in parts of Southern Europe or rural destinations.
• Underestimating data needs. It’s easy to misjudge usage on a two-week trip. Navigation, translation apps, and occasional video calls add up quickly, and running out of data mid-trip is more common than most people expect.
• Not checking device compatibility. One of the more frustrating issues I’ve seen (and experienced) is discovering at the last minute that a phone is carrier-locked or not properly eSIM compatible.
• Choosing the cheapest plan without checking limits. Low-cost plans often come with hidden trade-offs like aggressive speed throttling after small data caps, which can make everyday use frustrating.
• Overlooking country-specific restrictions. Some regional plans don’t cover every country in a region evenly. Popular gaps can include Switzerland, Norway, the UK, and parts of the Balkans, depending on the provider.

Making the Purchase Without Overthinking It

On timing, two to three days before departure is the sweet spot. Early enough to install and test at home, late enough that you are not dealing with plans that started counting validity weeks ago.

The other thing worth saying is that at some point you have to stop comparing and just buy. eSIM decision fatigue is a real thing. There will always be another provider to check, another review to read, another plan with slightly different terms. 

When you have found something that covers your destination properly, has reasonable data limits, and has clear setup instructions, that is enough. Buy it and move on to the parts of the trip that actually matter.

Final Takeaway

The best eSIM setup is the one you forget you have. It connects when you land, stays reliable as you move between countries, and never gives you a reason to think about it again for the rest of the trip.

Coverage matters more than price. Simplicity beats endless optimization. And a few minutes of proper research before you buy will save you from the kind of connectivity problems that have a way of casting a shadow over the first day of an otherwise great trip.

Get this right once and it becomes something you cross off the list before every trip without a second thought. Which is exactly the point.

Further Reading

Thank you for reading this far. I hope this guide helped take some of the guesswork out of finding the right eSIM for travel and that my experience saves you from some of the mistakes I made along the way. Get this part of your trip planning right and everything else feels smoother from the moment you land.

If you have questions, have used a provider I did not mention, or just want to share your own experience with travel eSIMs, drop a comment below. I read every one and am always happy to help.

For more guides on making travel easier, more enjoyable, or just simpler to plan, feel free to explore some of my other articles below.

• 20 Best Travel Apps
• Best Summer Destinations in Europe
• 10 Most Visited Countries in the World
• The Best Wildlife Destinations in the World
• My Ultimate List of Resources for Digital Nomad Families
• How We Navigate the World as a Digital Nomad Family
• Best Travel Insurance
• 60 Gifts for Travelers
• 32 Travel Gifts for Kids of All Ages
• How We Keep Our Child Safe While Traveling
• 30 Countries with Digital Nomad Visas

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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Since moving to Cape Town, we’ve been on so many safaris we’ve lost count. Here are some things we’ve learned that we hope you’ll find useful before going on your first African safari.

Our love for South Africa runs so deep that we decided to make Cape Town home for a year. During that time, we went on safari in the famous Kruger National Park, the elephant-rich Addo National Park, and countless of private reserves along the Garden Route and in the Western Cape. We also explored many parts of Africa, from the Great Rift Valley of Kenya to the Serengeti plains of Tanzania, the waterways of Botswana to the highlands of Uganda — and one thing is clear: no experience captured our hearts quite like safari.

The beauty of the savannas, the excitement of seeing a wild animal just a few feet away, and the feeling of being deep in the wilderness: an African safari is truly something I believe everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime. You are entirely at the mercy of nature, which means every safari is unique in its own way. We’ve put together 30 things you should know before your first African safari to help you prepare for the adventure of a lifetime.

1 – You’ll probably get addicted to safaris

After your first safari, your perspective tends to change. What you expect to be a once in a lifetime experience often turns into something you keep thinking about long after you leave. Whether it is a river safari in Botswana, tracking the Big Five in Tanzania, or exploring conservation reserves in South Africa, the feeling tends to stay the same.

The rhythm of the savanna, the quiet waiting, and the sudden excitement of spotting wildlife has a way of sticking with you. What starts as a single trip slowly turns into something you want to return to, and one game drive is rarely enough.

2 – Getting stuck is sometimes part of the experience

On safari, things do not always go exactly as planned and that quickly becomes normal. Vehicles can get stuck in mud after rain or struggle through deep sandy tracks, especially in remote areas. 

Guides step out to assess the situation, radios come out, and everyone gets drawn into the moment. There is usually laughter and calm patience while things are sorted out. Often wildlife appears nearby while you wait, completely unbothered. These unexpected pauses often become the stories people remember most from the trip.

3 – A good guide can completely transform your safari experience

A safari is shaped as much by the guide as it is by the landscape or the wildlife itself. The best guides do far more than drive you around. They read the bush like a living system, noticing movement, tracks, sounds, and patterns that most of us would completely miss. 

We’ve had guides who quietly spotted leopards resting high in trees or who could identify birds just from a faint call in the distance. Their knowledge and passion turn each drive into something deeper than sightseeing. For a truly tailored private African safari experience, having the right guide makes a noticeable difference in every moment of the journey.

4 – Wildlife sightings are unpredictable

No matter how many safaris you have been on, wildlife never follows a schedule. In the Serengeti, we had days with hours of quiet driving followed by sudden sightings of wildebeest herds stretching to the horizon or lions resting right beside the road.

That unpredictability is a big part of what makes safaris so special. Every drive carries a sense of anticipation, because you never know what the next bend in the road might reveal.

5 – Early mornings feel hard at first but become your favorite part of the day

Safari days usually begin before sunrise, when the air is still cool and the bush is just starting to wake up. In the beginning, those early wake ups can feel difficult, especially when you are still adjusting to the rhythm of the trip. But that feeling does not last long. 

Soon after, the early mornings turn into something you actually look forward to. There is a quiet magic to being out just as the light begins to change, with birds starting to call and fresh tracks appearing in the sand. Watching the savanna come alive slowly makes every early start feel completely worth it.

6 – Safari is often a kids’ favorite experience

Many people worry that children might get bored on game drives and not fully enjoy the adventure, that really depends on your kids. With the right guide and a well planned itinerary, safaris can be both safe and fun for kids of different ages. Seeing animals in their natural environment tends to capture their attention and curiosity right away.

On our family safari in South Africa, my daughter was fascinated from the very first game drive. She loved spotting animals, asking questions about the savanna, and learning how everything connects, and it became one of her favorite travel experiences.

7 – Timing matters more than most people realize

The time of year you choose for a safari has a bigger impact than most people expect. Different seasons completely change how the landscape looks and how animals behave. During the dry months, animals tend to gather around rivers and waterholes, which often makes sightings more concentrated and predictable. 

In the rainy season, everything transforms into wide green plains filled with new life and dramatic skies. We experienced this firsthand in Tanzania’s Northern Circuit during our week-long safari through Tarangire, Serengeti, and Ngorongoro Crater in early March. It was the start of the rainy season, and while we did encounter some muddy tracks (especially in the Serengeti) the landscape was absolutely breathtaking. 

The plains were lush and green, the skies were dramatic, and there were noticeably fewer safari vehicles compared to peak season, which made our wildlife encounters feel far more intimate and unhurried.

8 – African safaris are much more physically demanding than people expect

Safaris are often imagined as slow, relaxing drives through the bush, but the reality can be quite different. Early wake ups, long days in the vehicle, and hours on uneven or bumpy roads can be more tiring than most people expect. The sun, dust, and constant movement all add up over the course of a full day in the park.

On our Tanzania safari through Serengeti and Ngorongoro, we spent 6–8 hours daily in a Land Cruiser crossing long, bumpy stretches between parks like Tarangire, Serengeti, and Ngorongoro. Even with comfortable lodges like Lala Salama Luxury Camp, the driving itself can be tiring.

9 – There are several different types of safari

On our safari in Kenya, we explored game drives in the famous Masai Mara National Reserve. Game drives are the most common safari style, done in a 4×4 vehicle with a guide, and they are often the easiest way to see a wide range of wildlife. But there are several other ways to experience the bush as well. 

Walking safaris offer a more intimate perspective on the landscape, allowing you to notice smaller details you would miss from a vehicle. We did an excellent walking safaris and saw giraffes incredibly close in a private reserve near Addo National Park, South Africa. Boat safaris in places like Botswana explore rivers and wetlands from the water, while fly in safaris take you deep into remote wilderness areas with limited access. Self drive safaris are also possible in some regions, offering more freedom but requiring more planning and experience.

10 – You may not have mobile signal or WiFi for long stretches

Out in the bush, it is common to go for long stretches without any mobile signal or WiFi. In many remote safari areas, your phone will simply show no service. We have gone days without checking emails or scrolling through anything online, and at first it feels unusual, but it turns surprisingly freeing.

Without constant notifications or distractions, you start to focus more on what is happening around you. The sounds of the savanna, the anticipation of each sighting, and the rhythm of the day naturally take over and remind you why you came on game drive in the first place.

11 – The best safari moments usually happen when you least expect them

Some of our most unforgettable safari moments have happened when we were not actively searching for anything at all. We might be slowly driving along a quiet track at dusk when a leopard suddenly appears in front of the vehicle, or find ourselves completely still while elephants wander past just a few meters away. 

Even getting stuck in mud can turn into part of the safari itself, with wildlife sometimes moving calmly around the vehicle as if it were just another object in the landscape.

12 – Planning your safari budget early is essential

Safari experiences can vary widely, from simple rustic camping trips to fully serviced luxury lodges, and costs can add up quickly once you start planning activities like flights, guides, and special experiences.

One of our most unforgettable moments in Tanzania was a 4am hot air balloon safari over the Serengeti, completely different from anything planned and one of the highlights of the entire trip. Experiences like this are often optional extras, which is why it’s important to factor them into your budget early rather than deciding on the spot.

It is also important to account for park fees, internal flights, accommodation, and extras like this so you can enjoy the trip without constantly thinking about costs.

13 – Safari tents are often more luxurious than hotels

Forget the idea of rough camping. Many safari tents we’ve stayed in had plush beds, en-suite bathrooms, and even private decks overlooking the savanna. Falling asleep to the sounds of the savanna while wrapped in comfort is an experience that feels far more magical than any hotel stay.

There are also more comfortable lodge options, like our stay at Mhondoro Safari Lodge in the malaria free Welgevonden Game Reserve. It’s an outstanding, family friendly lodge and a perfect choice if you’re planning a family safari but are not a fan of tented camps.

14 – Packing less is usually the better strategy

Overpacking is one of the most common mistakes before a safari, and it becomes something you regret once you are on the road. In reality, you need far fewer items than you expect, especially since most safari lodges offer laundry services and you end up rotating through the same comfortable outfits most days. 

Keeping your bag light also makes travel on small bush planes much easier, where weight limits are strict and space is limited. It also leaves room for souvenirs picked up along the way. If you’re curious, I’ve put together a detailed safari packing list from my own trips.

15 – Mosquitoes and bugs depend heavily on the destination and season

Mosquitoes and insects are dependent on where and when you travel, and the experience can vary more than most people expect. In Botswana’s wetland areas, especially during certain seasons, mosquitoes can be quite noticeable in the evenings, while in Namibia’s desert regions they are often barely present at all. 

We have had wildlife trips where evenings were filled with buzzing insects around the lodge and others where everything felt completely calm and bug-free. It helps to pack repellent, but there is no need to worry too much. 

16 – Many safari camps run entirely on solar power

In many remote safari camps, sustainability is built into everyday life in a very practical way. At night, lanterns often glow softly around the camp, and showers are heated using solar energy collected during the day. 

In some places, even kitchens, lighting, and limited WiFi are powered entirely by the sun. It is a simple but impressive system that allows comfort without relying on traditional infrastructure.

17 – Health and safety should never be an afterthought

Safaris feel adventurous and exciting, but safety always comes first and is part of every experience in the bush. Guides will regularly remind you to stay seated in the vehicle, keep your hands inside, and avoid standing up near wildlife, especially predators. It is also important to carry basic medication, stay hydrated throughout the day, and always follow instructions from your guide. 

When traveling on a family safari, it helps to gently explain the environment so children understand what is happening and feel more comfortable. I go into more detail about this in my guide on keeping children safe when traveling.

18 – You really don’t need fancy safari clothes

Some travelers arrive on a wildlife trip dressed in full matching khaki outfits straight out of a catalogue, but in reality that is not necessary at all. What matters most is comfort and practicality rather than looking the part. Neutral, breathable clothing that blends with the environment works perfectly and makes long days in the wilderness much easier. 

The focus of a safari is always on what you see and experience, not what you are wearing. Keep things simple and save your budget for the actual adventure rather than specialized clothing.

19 – Many safari camps offer daily laundry service

One of the most pleasant surprises on safari is how easy it is to keep your clothes clean while traveling. Many safari camps include a daily laundry service, and in some cases items are returned within just a few hours. 

This makes a big difference once you settle into bush life, where days are long, dusty, and often repetitive in terms of clothing. It means you can pack much lighter, rewear your favorite comfortable outfits, and still feel fresh throughout the trip.

20 – A good camera is absolutely worth bringing

From our time on safari, a good camera is one of the most worthwhile things you can pack. Phones are great for quick snapshots, but a dedicated camera changes how you capture and experience what you see. 

While modern phones can take excellent photos in good light, a camera is often much better for distant animals, fast movement and low light conditions. That extra reach and control makes a big difference on safari. Small details like a lion’s tail, a bird’s eye or a resting leopard are captured far more clearly and vividly.

21 – It can be surprisingly cold on safari

One thing that often surprises people on safari is how cold it can feel, especially in the early morning. Game drives usually start before sunrise, when the air is still dark and the temperature can drop much lower than expected. 

We have had mornings where we were wrapped in blankets in the open vehicle, waiting quietly for the sun to rise and warm the savanna. Once the wind picks up, it can feel even cooler while moving through open areas. Packing a light jacket or fleece makes those early hours much more comfortable and is something you quickly learn to appreciate on every safari.

22 – Temperatures change quickly throughout the day

Temperature changes on safari can be surprisingly fast within a single day. Early mornings are often cold enough to need jackets and blankets during game drives, while by midday the sun becomes strong and warm enough that layers are quickly removed even while still out in the bush.

Once the afternoon fades, the air cools again soon after the sun begins to set. These shifts follow the natural rhythm of the savanna, and light layers are the easiest way to stay comfortable from morning until evening.

23 – Safari traffic jams are surprisingly common

It might sound surprising at first, but traffic jams are a normal part of safari life. In some cases several vehicles quietly gather in one spot when a rare sighting appears, all waiting patiently for a better view of a lion or leopard. 

Other times, elephants simply decide to cross or stand on the road, and the entire convoy has to pause until they move on at their own pace. What people don’t expect is that these moments are not interruptions at all. They are part of the shared rhythm of the wilderness, where slowing down often leads to seeing more than you expected.

24 – You may need to travel in tiny bush planes

Getting to remote safari camps often involves small bush flights between airstrips like Arusha and remote areas in the Serengeti, giving you a completely different perspective of Tanzania’s vast landscapes.

From above, the endless plains, rivers, and scattered wildlife patterns make you realize just how vast Tanzania really is. While the planes are small and can feel a little unusual at first, they are a normal and essential part of reaching some of the most remote safari destinations.

25 – Safari vehicles are built for serious off-road driving

Safari vehicles are nothing like ordinary cars, and that becomes clear the moment you leave the main roads. Most are specially designed 4x4s such as Jeeps and Land Cruisers, built to handle deep mud, rocky tracks, and uneven terrain that would stop a regular vehicle immediately. 

What looks almost impossible to cross on foot or in a standard car often turns out to be manageable as the vehicle carefully bounces and powers its way through the landscape. Sitting inside one, you quickly realize that the rugged build is not just practical, it is part of the reality of safari travel, taking you safely into remote areas that most people never get to reach.

26 – You can get uncomfortably close to dangerous predators

Safaris can bring you closer to predators than most people ever expect. In Ngorongoro Crater, we had two lions lying just meters from our Land Cruiser, completely relaxed while zebras grazed nearby. It is both thrilling and slightly unsettling at the same time, and the feeling stays with you long after the moment passes. 

Inside the vehicle, everything turns quiet, and even small movements feel much more noticeable than usual. In these moments, staying calm and paying close attention to your guide is important. It is a simple reminder that you are moving through the animals’ environment, not the other way around.

27 – Animals make strange noises

The bush is full of sounds you never expect until you experience them in person. We have heard hyenas making what sounds like laughter in the distance, hippos grunting like heavy engines from the water, and lions roaring so powerfully that you can feel it through your chest. 

At night, these sounds carry across the camp in every direction, creating an atmosphere that feels both unfamiliar and fascinating. Even when you cannot see the animals, you sense that the wilderness is alive all around you, moving and communicating in ways that quickly blend into the rhythm of safari life.

28 – Some wild animals wear GPS tracking collars

On safari, you may sometimes notice animals such as lions or elephants wearing GPS tracking collars. At first glance, it can feel unexpected, but these devices are an important part of modern conservation work. They allow researchers to monitor movement patterns, understand behaviour, and help protect species across large and often remote areas. 

Seeing them in the wild adds another dimension, reminding you that safaris are not only about observation and travel. They are also closely connected to science, conservation efforts, and the long term protection of wildlife populations and their natural habitats.

29 – You’ll probably have breakfast in the bush

Breakfast on safari often takes place right out in the wilderness instead of a lodge dining area. After a morning drive, a simple setup appears with coffee, tea, and light food served wherever the vehicle stops. It might be under open sky or near a shaded spot in the bush, depending on the route.

What makes it memorable is how normal it starts to feel, even though the setting is anything but. You are eating while still surrounded by wildlife areas, with no real separation between the meal and the environment.

30 – There are certain things you definitely don’t need to pack

It is easy to overpack for a safari, especially on a first trip, but many items end up staying unused in your bag. Heavy hiking boots are often unnecessary unless you are doing specific walking safaris, and most days are spent in a vehicle rather than on foot. Large amounts of clothing also become impractical since lodges typically offer laundry services. 

Even binoculars are sometimes provided by guides, depending on the camp. Packing lighter makes transfers easier, especially on smaller flights, and reduces the overall stress of moving between locations while leaving more space for anything you pick up along the way.

Disclaimer: This post was brought to you by Only One Safaris, but as always, all opinions expressed above are my own.

Further Reading

Thank you for reading this far. I hope these 30 things help you feel more prepared and excited for your first African safari.

If you’re planning your own trip, you might also enjoy my detailed Tanzania itinerary, where I break down exactly how we spent a week exploring the Serengeti, Tarangire, and Ngorongoro Crater with our guide, including where we stayed, what we saw, and how we planned it.

You can also explore more of my Africa travel guides below, from safari packing tips to the best national parks and family-friendly wildlife experiences.

• My Tried-and-Tested Safari Packing List
• On Safari in Kenya
• Best Safari Parks in Africa
• Wildlife Safari on the Chobe River
• A Family Safari in South Africa
• The Best Destinations for Safari with Kids
• Staying at Mhondoro Safari Lodge, South Africa
• How We Keep Our Child Safe While Traveling
• Best Travel Insurance

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to companies I use and trust. I get a small commission when you click on my links, at NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.

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