Xochil

Case Studies

Wed, 11 Mar 2026 14:40:02 GMT

Chicago's Pop-Up Garment District is Returning!

Wed, 25 Feb 2026 16:56:51 GMT

Excited to announce that the Chicago Pop-Up Garment District will be returning May 19th-20th! Details are still being finalized, but if you're located in the midwest and looking to source fabrics, trims, and other supplies, this is your one-stop shop! More information on vendors and location will be avaialble soon.

Xochil Nominated for ISAIC Honors 2026

Thu, 29 Jan 2026 13:37:05 GMT

Xochil has been named a Future Leader of the Year finalist for ISAIC Honors 2026!
This award honors an individual who’s shaping the future of manufacturing through bold ideas and strong leadership in supply chain solutions across the U.S. and North America. Winners will be announced in the coming weeks.

The 2026 ISAIC Honors will be held April 23rd, 2026 at the Taubman Center in Detroit. You can purchase tickets here to attend.

Press: SEAMS elects officers, board members

Fri, 09 Jan 2026 16:59:22 GMT

SEAMS elects officers, board members; Brent Jones voted in as president

SAVANNAH, Ga. – During the AATCC / SEAMS Fabricating the Future Annual Conference here this month, SEAMS announced the election of its new officers and board directors, ushering in a new era of leadership as the industry faces both unprecedented challenges and exciting opportunities.

Beginning January 1, 2026, Brent Jones of Henderson Machinery will assume the role of SEAMS president, succeeding Britt Moore of BK Fabrics, who will continue to serve as ex-officio. Jim Hopkins of Hamrick Mills was elected vice president, while Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker will serve as secretary/treasurer.

The newly elected board includes several industry leaders who will help guide SEAMS’ strategic direction over the next three years. Tabitha Green of Workwear Outfitters and Donielle Lorelli of National Industries for the Blind (NIB) join the board as Manufacturing Directors, while Jeff Gladden of Buhler Quality Yarns has been elected as a Supplier Director. They will serve terms running through December 2028.

They join a distinguished group of returning board members continuing their terms, including Anthony Marini of Heartland Manufacturing, Steve Hawkins of America Knits and Brian Alhanati of CustomFab USA as Manufacturing Directors, along with Supplier Directors Tanya Wade of the Manufacturing Solutions Center, Geoff Senko of Ocean State Innovations, William Mebane of Unifi, Ryan Smith of Printcraft and Stacey Bridges of Hanes Dye and Finish.

Alex Whitley of Contempora Fabrics also continues in his role as Education Director until the end of the year.

SEAMS the voice of the Association and Voice of the U.S. Sewn Products Industry for over 50 years. From fiber to finished product, SEAMS brings together brands, manufacturers, suppliers and service providers to strengthen domestic sourcing, foster collaboration and build a more resilient U.S. textile and sewn products industry.

With more than 200 member companies, SEAMS represents the complete domestic supply chain, comprising textiles providers, contract manufacturers, brands, vertical retailers and their suppliers and service providers.

Source: eTC

You can read the original article HERE.

Season of Lights - December 2025 "X-Files"

Fri, 09 Jan 2026 11:42:05 GMT

This year ushered in a host of changes, forcing swift reaction and problem solving across the supply chain. No one has come away untouched, regardless of whether some changes were perhaps welcomed or expected, many weren’t expected at all. We find ourselves here at the end of a tough year, which both moved along at a rapid pace, and felt slow and uncertain in between. It is at the end of such a year that reflection is most important, so that we may start fresh again with an enlightened and charged spirit to set the path forward.

A wise man once said, “You can’t start a fire without a spark – this gun’s for hire – even if we’re just dancing in the dark.” (The Boss, Bruce Springsteen).

Uncertainty can feel like darkness, and if you’re searching for a flint or a match, you may not immediately see what opportunities are within reach, but it is out there. I would like to highlight a few things which I shared earlier this year:

In February, I highlighted my experience at Texworld NYC, along with SEAMS member accounts of their time at SHOT Show, both giving us early insight into the interest levels of brands to make in America.

May brought us to Texprocess Americas in Atlanta, which I wrote about in both April and June. Not only did we have a successful SEAMS “Supply Chain USA” Pavilion at the show, but we also had a well-received Supplier Showcase, which showed the collective efforts of our members with more than 25 products made by 46 SEAMS members, plus our equipment and software/technology members (bringing us up to nearly 70 members). The showcase garnered attention from media both in and out of the industry.

In preparation for the first ever combined conference with fellow Alphabet Soup Collective partner, SEAMS joined forces with the AATCC to bring us the “Fabricating The Future” conference in Savannah, Ga. Between boats, ghost tours and conversations with colleagues, we heard from several points of view – representing a recently shuttered American brand; a growing American portfolio of brands; a trade and tariffs report; and an economic update and analysis. Some of these pills were hard to swallow. We were ignited with some early fuel from our keynote speaker, National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President Kim Glas, who sounded the alarm on potential threats to the Berry Amendment, and laid out her concerns with passion. Everyone in the room could feel the reverberation from her talk.

2026 marks America’s Semiquincentennial, the 250th birthday of the United States.

What is more American than a call to action in the face of adversity?

This momentous year should spark a renewed interest in Made in America products, but how can we ensure this has a lasting effect beyond the latest “swag,” t-shirts, and hats? I implore you, to get active, get involved, get loud(er). My suggested resolutions for 2026 are:

Brands are actively looking for domestic suppliers and factory partners.Take a few minutes to update your Power Search profile with your current offerings, and that relevant keywords are present. Be sure you are connected with companies up- and downstream from you, so that when a brand comes to you, but is missing a piece, that you can help them to fill that gap, vs losing them to someone overseas who “made it easier”.
SEAMS is planning two incredible conferences for 2026. Mark your calendars for April 29-May 1 in Greensboro, N.C.; and September 15-17 in New Orleans, La. Keep your connections strong, and find new ones to fortify your network.
Take time to work on your messaging strategy. Times change and strategies must evolve too. It’s no longer enough to say what you do, people want to see a little bit behind the curtain, and peek into the how and why. Make sure you’re telling (and showing) that story.
Let SEAMS expand your reach – be sure you are following on social media (LinkedIn, Instagram, Facebook, X). If SEAMS is not already following you back, please send us a message so we can be sure we are! Our goal is to share more from our members and help you to amplify your message and reach. Take advantage of your member benefits – SEAMS members get four e-blasts per year, where you can share news, open capacity, a new or interesting product or service offering, a job opening, etc.
Get involved in your local community. Ensure that schools, youth groups, scouts, etc. in your area know who you are, and open your doors to plant tours if feasible, or participate as a guest speaker. Maybe it’s for Manufacturing Day, or for no occasion at all. Young people need to see and understand the opportunities. But maybe more importantly, they need to see and understand the value in the work our industry does, to ensure we have a future. Products don’t just show up on shelves, they are made by us.
Verify that your local government, and your congressional representatives know you exist. You don’t have to necessarily wait to comment on specific pending legislation to reach out, but they won’t help you if they don’t know what your concerns are. Communicate regularly with your representatives about your business, your employees, and what matters to you. They work for you, make sure that they do.

There are plenty of flints available to you to create a spark. Together, may we make fireworks together.

I wish everyone a very happy holiday season, enjoy your loved ones, and get in some well-deserved rest after a tough year. For at the dawn of the new year, we rise!

Cheers my friends!

PRESS: "Emerging Technologies Conference - Advanced Textiles Expo 2025"

Tue, 02 Dec 2025 17:06:50 GMT

Emerging Technologies Conference - Advanced Textiles Expo 2025

AI tools

As an early open-source model, ChatGPT is a frequent first-use tool, but panelists and attendees suggested various other tools that use artificial intelligence:

Perplexity, an "answer engine" that cites its sources
Claude, for research
Google’s NotebookLM and Gemini, for research and other tasks
Nano Banana, for image editing
Prezi, for presentations
Fireflies, for meeting transcriptions
Microsoft’s Copilot, for a variety of tasks

Paige Mullis of MMI Textiles (right) led a panel discussion on business uses of artificial intelligence that included interaction with the audience as well. Panelists were Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker and Mary Reardon, also of MMI.

Presenters encourage attendees to try AI

Adam Penner, AP Consulting and Technical Services, spoke on the topic "AI for All: Practical Tools to Streamline Your Business" and offered a "hands-on starting point" to enter the world of artificial intelligence (AI).

"It’s not the future," Penner says. "It’s the present, and it’s here." AI can make daily activities more convenient, taking over busywork so humans can focus on more creative and meaningful tasks. He started with ChatGPT, an AI tool that can help with various work-related tasks.

He’s used it for constructing the basic terms for an estimate from "rough notes," including adding "anything I might forget," he says.

No need to take meeting notes; AI can record and transcribe them for you. It can also improve the language you use in email messages, which is especially important if you’re upset, he says. ChatGPT will correct it, "so the anger doesn’t come through."

AI is getting easier to use, too, as it is now built into tools we already use, such as Google Workspace and Microsoft 365, and it has user-friendly interfaces that respond to natural language prompts. "If you can text, you can use AI," he says.

There are some risks. He warns of overreliance and using AI for expert advice. "It’s not a lawyer or an engineer," he says. It’s also important to remember that "anything you put in there could end up somewhere else." Creators of AI tools say their enterprise versions allow for more data privacy; check the terms.

The best way to get to know AI is to just try it. "Play with it," he says. "There’s no better substitute for learning it."

Audience, panelists share ideas on using AI

In a panel discussion during the Emerging Technologies Conference, the audience actively participated concerning "AI in Everyday Business," with Paige Mullis, senior sales executive at MMI Textiles, moderating.

Panelist Xochil Herrera Scheer, who works independently in patternmaking and product development through her company, The Chicago Pattern Maker, says she first used it for taking notes and "started experimenting with software for patternmaking."

Panelist Mary Reardon, vice president textile innovation, MMI, says she uses ChatGPT to reword messages and find information. "In the past it was a Google search, but AI is so much faster."

Audience members came up with their own suggestions. Jonathan Crumpler, who presented earlier in the day about developing augmented reality training, advises, "Don’t struggle against it; use it."

Herrera Scheer says AI is a great tool to make changes in design, such as color, or generating marketing or website copy. However, it’s necessary to edit, "when the copy sounds like AI, not like a real person."

Should you keep the memory on when using AI? Half of the people at this session indicated that they do. Herrera Scheer says, "The more you work with it, the more it remembers you, and the better it will work for you."

However, material will recycle, so Reardon adds, "It’s trained to know what you like to hear, so if you keep ‘hearing yourself,’ turn off the memory and prompt again."

There is also a sustainability issue due to the amount of energy AI consumes. "It’s something to consider before using [AI], if you don’t really need to," Herrera Scheer says.

Emerging Technologies Conference attendees got a firsthand look at a variety of biomaterials now available from industry providers such as BIOFUR^®, Bananatex^® Hemplyte™ nanocellulose, Circ^® lyocell, and Elevate vegan leather.

Biomaterial give value to waste products

The growth of biomaterials (fibers and fabrics) has been well documented in this publication. Emerging Technologies Conference presenter Thomasine Dolan Dow takes it a step further and calls it "a revolution" in next-generation fibers, materials and coatings.

In her presentation she also argued for "giving value to waste" by "transforming overlooked, discarded byproducts into something valuable." This could include waste from agriculture, plants, food and textiles.

Bio-based is "nature-based," she says, consisting of materials "that can be grown again and again," such as corn, potatoes, sugarcane, soybeans and grains. Emerging next-gen feedstocks include mycelium, agricultural waste, seaweed, kelp and algae, with market growth well underway. In 2023, the global vegan leather market was valued at $73.4 billion by market research firm Next Move Strategy Consulting. The forecast for 2030 is slightly more than $139 billion.

Dow urges everyone to consider the environmental impact of our choices. Currently, 60% of apparel is made from fossil fuel-based materials (polyester, nylon and acrylic), which can shed microplastics that do not biodegrade.

"It’s really hard to compete with polyester and with plastic in general because it’s so cheap—and it’s been subsidized," she says.

However, there are many companies with biosynthetic materials and biofibers on the market.

"Biosynthetics are particularly intriguing," she says. "They could eventually replace petroleumbased plastics and nylon."

She also listed many recycling companies and provided a substantial list of companies making performance bio-coatings and dyes, which are "really important," she says, "Because once you put a petroleum coating on, you can’t recycle it."

Infrared-responsive textile introduced

Akira Kumada, SOLAMENT™ product manager for Takisada-Nagoya Co. Ltd., spoke on the company’s infrared-responsive textile. Made with metal-derived nanoscale particles, the material is capable of absorbing near-infrared (NIR) energy when applied to almost any textile.

The technology was invented by Sumitomo Metal Mining Co. Ltd. and has been "widely utilized for heat-blocking for years," Kumada says. What’s new is the process that made it possible to disperse the product into a yarn matrix.

Sunlight, he points out, is 52% visible light, 6% ultraviolet light, and the rest—42%—is NIR light, which SOLAMENT can capture and absorb. One test under simulated sunlight showed heat reduction of about 19% with SOLAMENT’s infused fibers. The fibers without SOLAMENT cooled about 6%.

The infused fabric can also be used for keeping people warm. "Yes, this can do both [heat and cool]," Kumada says. "It depends on the structure of the weave." The product absorbs the heat and can contain it, disperse it from the wearer or release it toward the body.

Microplastics testing, standards, laws still nascent

Although testing to quantify and characterize microplastics is still in its developmental stages, interest in it is on the rise, especially among textile producers, says Danielle Harrier, Ph.D., with Exponent, an engineering and scientific consulting firm with offices worldwide. Harrier is a senior associate in the Polymer Science and Materials Chemistry Group at the company’s office in Menlo Park, Calif.

Over the past few years, several standards have been developed—and others are still emerging—for analyzing the composition and quantity of microplastics in water, including some standards that are specific to textiles. The challenge is that no single piece of equipment or technique will take care of the entire size range of particles, she says. Her firm uses a combination of techniques.

Research is influencing policymakers. "Textiles are being looked at [by legislators] with increasing scrutiny," Harrier says.

The only federal ban currently in effect targets plastic microbeads used in cosmetics, such as exfoliating face washes. However, a shift is beginning, she says, as state and federal lawmakers work to address the broader issue of plastic pollution. Most existing laws, bills, regulations and proposals focus on primary microplastics, like microbeads, but are increasingly referencing secondary sources such as synthetic textiles. Emerging regulations aim to curb microfiber pollution by requiring washing machines to include particle filters.

The original article, published in the Specialty Fabrics Review, can be found HERE.

PRESS: "Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC and Printsource Will Bridge Innovation, Education and Design for Winter 2026"

Tue, 11 Nov 2025 16:09:39 GMT

From Sourcing Journal:

"Education will be at the forefront as Texworld NYC and Apparel Sourcing NYC return this winter.

Running Jan. 20 to 22, 2026, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York, the co-located shows will once again bring together leading global suppliers and fashion innovation.

While the Messe Frankfurt-organized East Coast sourcing events remain centered on connecting textile mills, fabric suppliers and sustainable material partners with U.S. buyers, education continues to be a defining feature, with a robust lineup of sessions addressing today’s most pressing industry topics. Programming will spotlight sustainability challenges, global sourcing strategies, artificial intelligence (AI) in creative design, compliance and legislation, material science advancements and color, textile and apparel trends for spring/summer 2027.

One of Texworld’s key highlights is its Textile Talks series. Tailored to reflect the shifting global textile landscape, these expert-led sessions unite thought leaders and innovators to share insights on emerging trends, responsible manufacturing, business development and sourcing strategies—all aimed at equipping attendees to thrive in an increasingly competitive market.

On the show floor, attendees can visit the Pitch Stage, a platform where exhibitors spotlight their newest products and services. According to Jennifer Bacon, vice president of fashion and apparel shows for Messe Frankfurt Inc., the space gives participants a chance to “ask questions, make connections and walk away with valuable new supplier contacts.” Powered by Texpertise, Messe Frankfurt’s global textile trade fair network, these presentations will run throughout the three-day event on a first-come, first-served basis.

Expanding its educational scope, Texworld will introduce a new Innovation Hub, designed to link attendees with exhibitors that can help advance brand development. The area features the Next-Gen Innovation Hub, which highlights biomaterial pioneers; the Solutions Studio, housing sustainability and certification groups; and the Technology Lab, showcasing digital tools and AI-powered systems redefining fashion production.

Building on that tech-forward focus, Texworld will host the hands-on Tech Pack Workshop: Your Fashion Design Blueprint provided by Xochil Herrera Scheer, president and founder of The Chicago Pattern Maker. Participants will learn to interpret key elements—like the bill of materials, stitch and seam details, and colorways—while mastering best practices for communicating with factories and suppliers. Attendees will also begin creating their own spec sheets under expert guidance. Seating is limited and available for purchase through online registration.

The Texworld show app—described by Bacon as a “sourcing companion”—will help attendees discover exhibitors and find their way through the show floor.

“Featuring an interactive floor plan, AI-powered matchmaking that provides personalized exhibitor recommendations based on each attendee’s preferences and buying needs, it streamlines navigation and creates smarter, more intentional connections on the show floor,” she said."

You can read the full article HERE.

EVENT: Advanced Textiles Expo 2025

Fri, 24 Oct 2025 16:12:58 GMT

Join me November 4-7 in Indianapolis for the 2025 Advanced Textiles Expo!

November 4th, 2025 - 4:35pm
I'll be chatting with industry colleagues as a panelist in "AI in Everyday Business: Real-World Use Cases from Industry Leaders." We'll discuss how AI is revolutionizing daily workflows—from marketing and design to sourcing, manufacturing, and product development.

November 7th, 2025 - 11:00am
I also have the honor of leading my own session, "From Technical Expert to Industry Leader: How to Build Your Influence and Lead with Your Expertise." Your expertise is a superpower, and it’s time to lead with it. In this session, we’ll explore how to leverage your technical skills to build influence and trust. Your unique position and specialized knowledge can influence a brand’s design, production, and profitability. You’ll learn how to communicate your ideas with clarity and build trust with your team, industry colleagues, and non-technical stakeholders—from clients to CEOs. Lean into your unique niche to build a lasting legacy, while finding ways to mentor and champion other women to strengthen our industry, build community, and advance your career.

Can't wait to see you there!

To learn more about Emerging Technologies Conference and Women in Textiles sessions, click HERE.

How to Evaluate Your Prototype and Prepare for a Fit Session

Fri, 17 Oct 2025 12:03:04 GMT

It's getting real! You’re finally at the stage in the product development process where you’ve received your first prototype! Now what?

You'll need to evaluate your prototype (aka "sample"), and communicate the change requests to us, your team. Ideally, this is done in person, however, we work with clients who are located throughout the US, and it’s not always possible for us to meet in-person for fit sessions and prototype reviews. Instead, we will meet remotely over Google Meet. For those virtual sessions, we ask for clients to send us photos and video to clearly show these, even if you plan to wear or show it live in the meeting, so we can reference it later.

Either way we meet, this session is essential for us to see how the garment fits, or how the product looks and performs (for non-apparel items), and note any areas that may need to be adjusted. Prior to our meeting, it’s important for you to thoroughly evaluate your protoype, so you come to the meeting prepared with notes and comments, and we can work through refining the design and getting closer to sending the style to production.

FIT | FUNCTION | FABRICATION

Once you have your prototype in hand and begin to review it, there are three main things to keep in mind: Fit, Function, and Fabrication.

FIT: How does the garment look and feel when it’s on the body? Is it too big/small? Too tight/loose? Are there any areas where the fit is off or doesn’t look just right? For tops, pay attention to neck size and shape, how do the shoulders and sleeve cap fit, sleeve length and width, check the placement of darts, etc. For pants or skirts, check to see if the waistband is hitting at the correct spot on the body for your design? If it has an elastic waistband, is the elastic tight enough to fit comfortably without sagging, but loose enough to not feel constricting? How do the crotch, hips, thigh, knee and leg opening look? Does the side seam fall straight vertically, or does it sway forward/backward? How’s the length? For all garments, check for "drag lines" or wrinkling that appear.

FUNCTION: Test out any functional elements. This includes pockets and closures. It also includes wear-testing, moving around, sitting, standing, walking, squatting, etc. to see how it performs. Don't just try it on and stand still. Are the pockets placed where they are natural to reach into? Is the pocket bag depth appropriate for the items that may be placed inside? Does the garment achieve its intended purpose? For example, if it’s a shapewear garment, does it offer enough compression in the right areas? If it’s a bag with multiple compartments, do all the items you want to have go in the bag actually fit inside, and can you access the items with ease?

FABRICATION: This category includes not only the actual material or fabric that the garment is made from, but also any trims, and the construction methods used. This is a good time to note whether you need to add bar tacks for security, change out a trim element that isn’t working, or add topstitching to make a seam lay more smoothly or to make it appear more finished. Sometimes the fabric itself is changed during the design process because it doesn’t hang as you’d hoped, or isn’t serving the design in the desired way. Maybe you’re making a sports bra, but the current fabric you’re using doesn’t wick away moisture like you want it to. Now is the time to consider changing to a different material that can offer those wicking properties.

As you review your prototype in advance of your meeting, take detailed notes and photos to support. The purpose of the prototype review meeting is to ensure that your final product is going to fit well, function properly, and is made from the right materials and appropriate finishes for your price point, market, and design aesthetic. You don’t want to send it off to the factory to be produced, only to realize that it still needs major revisions. The more you prepare in advance, the better your pattern maker can work with you during the session to recommend and apply the changes for improvement.

Here are a few additional tips for having a successful virtual fit session:

Take measurements of your fit model before the session begins - especially in the case where you or a friend is your brand’s fit model, but even when using a professional model. It’s important to make sure the model’s measurements are consistent each session. Recording and noting whether the model’s measurements have changed is helpful to refer to when determining which changes to make to the garment. If you are your own fit model, have someone else help you take your measurements to ensure they are accurate. In the case of in-person meetings, we will take care of this for you!

Lighting and available space - Make sure you have a well-lit room, and space within your webcam’s view to show the entire garment. If it’s difficult to see something, it may not be addressed properly in the fitting and thus missed in the pattern revisions. If lighting during the meeting is difficult - the next tip can help.

Take photographs and video in advance of the garment (front, back, side, and close-up's of any problem areas). Send this in advance of the fit session if possible so we can address these areas in more detail together. If you are your own fit model, get a tripod and timer, or have someone else take the photos for you. This is especially important because you cannot necessarily see everything by looking down or over your shoulder in a mirror as you can when you stand naturally and straight on, and it will distort the garment which can either hide problems that exist, or create ones that don't.

Have your tools ready! You’ll need pins (safety or straight pins), chalk (or other marking tool), and a tape measure. Marking the garments during the session and sending them back to your pattern maker will further help ensure that all corrections are made accurately. Having a tape measure on hand is best to convey specific changes, rather than estimating how much you want to change something by. We need concrete numbers, not "take a little bit off here".

Professional fit models can be hired to work virtually, or in-person with the pattern maker or the designer. They are trained and experienced in live sessions, and able to provide valuable feedback on the fit of the garment, as well as taking care to measure and photograph the samples, even if they work remotely. In the case where the brand is less experienced, a virtual session or hiring the model to meet with the pattern maker is probably the best bet - so that the pattern maker can see the garment live, while the designer video conferences in to direct and provide feedback.

Our main goal with every client is to make sure that they have a well-fitting, fully functional product before sending it off to production. It’s a collaborative effort though, so it’s important for clients to be hands-on and involved throughout the development process, especially during the prototyping stage. With the right tools, technology, and clear communication, it’s very possible to be successful without ever even meeting your pattern maker in person. We’re happy to be able to effectively service our clients throughout the country.

PRESS: Xochil Interviewed for Overtime Clothing's "Sourcing Spotlight"

Tue, 14 Oct 2025 16:23:23 GMT

Xochil was recently interviewed by Evan "Pops" Tart of Overtime Clothing, a US-Made workwear brand, for their "Sourcing Spotlight" series.

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Sourcing Spotlight: The Chicago Pattern Maker

October 14, 2025

America is composed of some of the greatest, most passionate, businesses and workers you will find anywhere in the world. A tremendous amount of skill, artistry, and dedication go into every material we use in the products we make. That is why, we here at Overtime Clothing, wanted to create a spotlight for the amazing people and businesses we work with that provide the high-quality materials we use in our products. While often these businesses are behind the scenes heroes, we want to make sure they get the recognition they rightfully deserve. While there may be some names you recognize and some you may have the pleasure of learning, Overtime Clothing is proud to post our bulletin - Sourcing Spotlight!

For this Sourcing Spotlight I had the pleasure to talk more with Xochil Herrera Scheer, the founder and president of The Chicago Pattern Maker. Xochil and The Chicago Pattern Maker are two names you can say to almost anyone in the fashion, garment, or textile industry and they will not only know of them, but will have an amazing story of a partnership, experience, or discussion they have shared along the way.

~~~

What is your name and can you tell us more about yourself and your business?

My name is Xochil Herrera Scheer, and I’m the founder and president of The Chicago Pattern Maker. We provide professional product development services to brands of all sizes throughout the country. We take the creative direction from our clients and build out their designs, tech packs, patterns, and work through the prototyping process. We provide guidance for established and new brands, including material and factory sourcing, and production advisory.

How did you get started in this industry?

I have been sewing since I was a child, my grandma taught me how to make doll clothes at age 7. By age 9 I was sewing outfits for myself and I discovered my love of pattern making and tech during my high school and college years. I worked at a small brand for a few years following that, and started freelancing with small brands, along with honing my tailoring and fitting skills working with stylists and private clients. I spent a lot of time in factories, working with the cutting and sewing teams, in order to learn everything I could, and become a better pattern maker and technical designer. Eventually I grew this into The Chicago Pattern Maker, with a small but mighty team focused on creating manufacturer-ready garments and sewn products.

How are you involved with the Overtime Clothing project?

I’m working with Overtime Clothing on the product development - we are creating patterns, tech packs, and sewing the prototypes for Overtime Clothing’s first project. We are excited to see this come to market! It has been a fun process working on this and tweaking the fit and details to make it a truly special garment, and I know that with our attention to detail that it will live in people’s wardrobes for years to come!

What drives you to do what you do?

I have a passion for making - it is the most rewarding experience to see something we work so hard on for months (or sometimes longer) come to life. I enjoy being able to collaborate creatively with both my clients and my team, and connect the dots with industry partners and colleagues. I also have a strong interest in the US textile and apparel industry, and in ethical manufacturing practices.

It’s not magic that sews clothes together, but the end result definitely feels magical.

Where can our community find more information?

I’m active on Instagram, @fashionxochil primarily, and @thechicagopatternmaker. You can also find me on LinkedIn (www.linkedin.com/in/xochil). Our website is www.xochil.com. You can also catch me on the Bobbin Around podcast, which I co-host.

~~~

I cannot express enough my deepest appreciation for all the work and guidance Xochil and The Chicago Pattern Maker team have provided as we work to launch our first product. They have been truly instrumental in turning a dream into a reality, and are a guiding light, a trusted source of information, and a leader in the fashion, garment, and textile industry. Now that we are approaching the end of our process and working on getting the product manufactured, I think Xochil said it best, “It’s not magic that sews clothes together, but the end result definitely feels magical.”

You can read the original blog post HERE.

EVENT: Tech Pack Workshop with Xochil at Texworld NYC January 2026

Thu, 09 Oct 2025 15:50:30 GMT

I'm excited to share that this coming January 2026, I'll be teaching a two-hour workshop at TexWorld NYC on how to create a tech pack.

What You'll Learn

We'll start by defining what a tech pack is and why it's the most critical document in the garment production process. You'll learn how to accurately and clearly communicate every design detail, from the specific fabric and trims to the intricate construction techniques. We'll show you how to create a comprehensive specification sheet that leaves no room for error, ensuring your vision is perfectly translated by fabric and manufacturing vendors.

The workshop will cover the following key areas:

Understanding the Anatomy of a Tech Pack: Learn to read and interpret the various components of a tech pack, including the Bill of Materials (BOM), stitch and seam details, and colorways.
Communicating with Vendors: Discover the best practices for sharing technical information with factories and material suppliers, helping you build strong, productive relationships.
Creating Your Specifications: We'll provide examples of well-documented specs for various garment styles. You will get hands-on experience by beginning to create your own spec sheet during the session, with guidance from our experts.

Key Takeaways

How to Measure and Spec a Garment

Learn the industry standards for measuring a garment correctly. We will teach you how to create precise spec sheets and Points of Measure (POMs) that ensure consistent sizing and fit across all production runs. A well-executed spec sheet is the first step in quality control.

Quality Control (QC)

I will show you how to use your tech pack as a Quality Control (QC) checklist. You’ll learn how to cross-reference the final product against your specifications to identify and correct any discrepancies, ensuring the finished garment meets your exact standards before it goes to market.

This workshop is designed to empower you with the knowledge and tools needed to streamline your production process, minimize costly errors, and ensure the quality of your finished products.

You can learn more about how to sign up for this workshop HERE and register for Texworld NYC HERE. If you'vew already signed up for Texworld NYC but would like to sign up for the workshop, click HERE.
Can't wait to see you there!

Stitching Together a Movement - August 2025 "X-FILES"

Tue, 09 Sep 2025 17:03:11 GMT

A year ago, the industry came together to debut the Alphabet Soup Collective, and this year, the first collaborative conference will be held, hosted by SEAMS and the AATCC organizations. We are excited to take the connections beyond the cocktail hours that have been hosted since and have more in-depth discussions and action plans.

This month, I wanted to focus on the brand and consumer point of view, and how the disconnect that exists can be improved. I believe that having more insight and looking at the industry through this lens for a moment can help us to better understand the end consumer, for it is their demands that drive buying decisions from brands, who are our customers. As suppliers, we can learn some things and apply that to our own messaging and create a better experience that aligns with the products, services, and expertise that we provide.

I’m pleased to have had the opportunity recently to discuss these messaging gaps with the CEO and Founder of the Made in America Movement (MAM), Margarita Mendoza.

For those unfamiliar with MAM, they are a mission-driven organization dedicated to rebuilding American manufacturing and strengthening the economy from the inside out, through supporting brands that produce in the U.S., advocating for supply chain transparency, and promoting workforce development, especially through trade schools and vocational training. Ms. Mendoza describes that the organization “support[s] companies at every stage of their Made in USA journey. Whether it’s through storytelling, certification guidance, or consumer engagement, our goal is to bridge the gap between makers and the people who want to support them.”

I was interested to delve into some of the themes that will be presented at our Fall Conference and thought that interviewing Ms. Mendoza would be a great way to get the gears turning. I’ve been following along with the organization’s social media pages, their messaging around American brands, and buying American resonates with me both as a consumer, and as an industry advocate. The way we communicate matters. As Margarita puts it, “It’s about creating real connections that drive awareness, trust, and action.”

Xochil: How do brands story-tell authentically – creating a marketable story that is true but appealing? What are common topics/details that customers like to see from brand stories?

Margarita: Authentic storytelling starts with why a brand exists and not just what it sells. Today’s consumers respond to transparency, purpose, and impact. They want to know the faces behind the product, the jobs you’re creating, the materials you’re using, and the communities you’re investing in. So, think behind-the-scenes content: your founder’s story, the production process, or how your product solves a real-world problem. Keep it human, not filtered or corporate. We’ve worked with dozens of brands to craft and translate these stories into social content that connects with the customer. When your messaging is consistent, value-aligned, and rooted in real people and purpose, it drives both engagement and long-term loyalty.

Xochil: With “Made in America” messaging becoming more popular, how do brands make their story stand out?

Margarita: “Made in the USA” used to be a differentiator. Now it’s the starting point. To stand out, you need to go deeper. I often tell clients to lean into their how, where, and why. Where do you produce? Why did you choose domestic suppliers? Who are the people behind your products? Show the work, not just the label. This is where digital content really shines. Our team helps brands turn their stories into platform-specific content, short-form video, behind-the-scenes reels, photos with real context, and newsletters that educate and inspire. Done right, this content becomes a strategic asset, one that cuts through generic ‘Made in USA” claims and creates a meaningful brand experience. Certification, traceability, and educational content elevate your message. And when you connect your sourcing choices to values like job creation, sustainability, or economic resilience, your story sticks.

Xochil: There is so much work that goes into building a U.S. supply chain, so I agree that brands can and should absolutely lean into that, share the work! However, I hear this sentiment of perseverance over and over again from brands in talks, on podcasts, etc. Perhaps, when we hear those stories, rather than simply feeling inspired by the grit and tenacity of the brand to push through the noise, consider how we as suppliers can potentially make aspects of this a little easier on them. Not every start-up will be a success story; however, I think we can consider things that allow for an easier entry point. Let’s not make it harder to do business than it already is – or we’ll continue to lose brands who decide another road has fewer obstacles to overcome.

On that note, brands whose core values are grounded in this, will persevere. How can the Made in America movement become more attainable for brands who want to manufacture in the US but are faced with higher labor and production costs?

Margarita: Collaboration is key! Whether it’s through shared manufacturing spaces, batch production, or partnerships across supply chains. But we need systemic change, policy support, regional manufacturing hubs, trade schools and broader education around the total cost of ownership. At the brand level, no question, it’s a challenge. But we’ve seen companies succeed by being radically transparent. They explain pricing, highlight durability and ethics, and invite their community into the journey. These brands have invested in content that educates consumers about the true cost of products, not just the sticker price. Content plays a big role here. When consumers see the difference, how something is made, the hands behind it, the impact on the community, they start to understand the price. We need them to get to that “Aha moment” where they get it. We help brands explain this visually and clearly, using before-and-after content, “meet the maker” features, or sustainability breakdowns. That education helps shift the conversation from sticker shock to long-term value. When brands clearly communicate the “why” behind the cost, customers are more likely to invest because they’re aligned with the impact.

Xochil: I think the transparency aspect is so key here. People are willing to spend a premium on a craft cocktail or beer, or dinner, because they know cooking takes time and skill. When we believe and show the value of the skills involved in sewn product manufacturing, they will begin to see that too. Right now, the consumer by and large is so removed from that process, they don’t understand it, and therefore it’s hard to respect what you don’t see. I think the supply chain companies can take this same idea, and showcase their skilled workers, their high-tech equipment (or the historic 50-year-old machine that is still going strong!), and walk through some of their processes. Content these days does not have to be high quality in production; it just has to be authentic and real.

Do you have any “favorite” examples of brands who are doing storytelling well, and are attracting new and repeat customers?

Margarita: I personally love what Bards Clothing, NW Alpine, Red Land Cotton, and Origin USA are doing. All four brands combine stunning imagery, authentic founder stories, and clear production transparency to build trust and pride. Some highlight their supply chains. Others showcase who farms their cotton or sews their garments. They bring consumers into the story, making them feel like part of something bigger. We often reference these brands in our consulting work as case studies in authentic, impact-driven messaging.

Xochil: These are fantastic examples! And your shortlist includes a couple brands who have spoken at past SEAMS conferences, and one upcoming – Bill Amos, CEO of NW Alpine Gear. He will be speaking in October about his experience building a U.S.-made outdoor apparel brand, even operating his own cut and sew factory for part of that journey. I’m a fan of these brands and their marketing is very raw, very open, genuine and transparent into the inner workings of a sewn products brand. Pete Roberts from Origin USA recently launched a new series on YouTube, “American Made,” which highlights the daily grind, and lessons learned along the way. Each of these brands above is a good example of this – but what advice would you give to those looking to successfully communicate to their customers that their higher-priced Made in USA products are worth the price? How can we better share the value vs the price?

Margarita: Reframe the price as an investment. It’s not just a product, it’s an investment: in jobs, ethical labor, quality materials, and a more resilient economy. Tell the story behind the price. Who made it? What skills were involved? What difference did that purchase make? Then amplify that message across every customer touchpoint. I used to share my Made in USA jeans story to help consumers justify the price tag on premium jeans. I own (and still wear) a few pairs I bought back in the late 90s. At $170 a pair back then, I knew I was making an investment. That investment has paid off in many ways, including motivating me to stay fit so I can still fit into them 25+ years later! Make it personal. Say things like: “This jacket created three jobs in Pennsylvania.” Or “This purchase kept 2,000 gallons of fuel from crossing the ocean.” Now it’s no longer a transaction; it’s a value-aligned decision. When we help brands craft social campaigns, we build frameworks that connect pricing to values in a way that resonates emotionally. And that human connection is what drives loyalty and conversions.

Xochil: The personal stories and educating the consumer about “cost per wear” are great ideas! I agree wholeheartedly with showing “behind the scenes” type content, what a modern factory looks like, how things are made – these things are incredibly interesting to people, and help them better frame the price vs. value.

Next, this can be tough. There is a mentality that brands have to “do it all” perfectly, whatever their ethos may be – there is backlash when they fall short. Not being perfectly sustainable, can be labeled “green washing” even when the intent is truly there. The same goes for US brands, who may make some of their products domestically, but maybe struggle with how to incorporate that into their brand story because they have a mixed supply chain. There are also many brands who assemble their products here but purchase some or all of their input materials overseas, whether due to costs, availability, or other factors.

If a brand isn’t (or can’t be) 100% Made in America, how can they communicate and convince customers that their brand has extra value? Do you think it has to be “all or nothing” for it to be a core value of a brand?

Margarita: No, not at all. Transparency beats perfection. It’s about honesty and progress. Most savvy consumers understand that supply chains are complex, especially after COVID. What matters is being upfront. Share where your materials come from, explain the decisions you’ve made, and what steps you’re taking to increase your domestic sourcing. We’ve helped many brands navigate this “gray zone” through smart messaging and thoughtful content strategies. A sourcing video, a dedicated “Our Journey” page, or a simple, well-crafted FAQ can go a long way in building trust and boosting SEO. Celebrate your wins and roadmap the rest. Consistency and progress build trust, and trust builds loyalty.

Xochil: I think this is so important to understand. That progress is the goal, not perfection. We can make great strides to achieve goals together. Rather than dwell on an imperfect supply chain or the low percentage of sewn products made in the USA of the overall textile purchases – let’s reframe this as an opportunity.

If we want to move the needle from 3% to 5%, for example, that is very doable! It absolutely takes collaborative effort, buy-in from the consumers and brands, but with a shared strategy, we can see success. Once we get there, celebrate for a moment, and increase the goal again. Just like in sewing, you start with smaller parts. Each piece comes together in parts in time to form the garment, it doesn’t appear from thin air. Likewise, we need to combine and compile our messages to form the story of our future.

Thank you, Margarita, for your valuable insights and candid answers.

I look forward to some fantastic speakers at Fabricating the Future, and expanded networking with our conference partners, the AATCC. I hope to see you there, ready to listen, learn, and lean into these opportunities.

EVENT: Industrial Stitching 101 Workshop with Xochil

Fri, 05 Sep 2025 10:52:26 GMT

Xochil will be teaching a 2-part wokshop on industrial sewing at AIBI's studio, September 20th and 27th. This workshop is designed for those who have never sewn before, or those who have never used industrial equipment and practices. Students will be introduced to industrial sewing equipment, basic seams, the fundamentals of "cut and stitch" items, and sew a tote bag and a zip bag.

Xochil has been sewing for most of her life, so she will be sharing her tips and tricks to help prepare you with a solid foundation to sew like a pro!

You can learn more and sign up HERE.

EVENT: Xochil Speaking at 2025 SPESA Executive Conference

Tue, 19 Aug 2025 10:50:07 GMT

SPESA (Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas) will be hosting their 2025 Executive Conference this year in Chicago, and I'm looking forward to speaking in one of their sessions alongside Rob McMillan of Chicago's own Dearborn Denim & Apparel.

Making in America, Part 1 | Building a Brand with Local Roots
Robert McMillan, Dearborn Denim & Apparel
In conversation with Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker

We’ll be spending a lot of time in Chicago talking about the value of “Made-in-America”. But what does it truly mean to make locally? During this conversation, we’ll highlight a company that isn’t just talking about domestic manufacturing — it’s building its entire business around it.
Robert McMillan, Founder and CEO of Dearborn Denim & Apparel, will join us to share the story behind his Chicago-based, made-to-order brand that has been committed to U.S. production from day one. From an unconventional career pivot into apparel manufacturing to a strategic production shift during the Covid-19 pandemic, McMillan has navigated challenge and change with a firm belief in local resilience. This conversation will explore what it takes to keep a supply chain close to home, and why doing so still matters.

You can see the full conference agenda HERE.

EVENT: 2025 SPESA Executive Conference in Chicago

Fri, 25 Jul 2025 12:14:03 GMT

Exciting news! This year's 2025 SPESA Executive Conference is being held in Chicago!

Taking place August 27-29 at the Sofitel Chicago Magnificent Mile, the conference is a key education and networking event for anyone interested in learning more about the current issues, trends, and policies impacting theglobal sewn products industry. The two-day conference features a combination of keynotespeakers, panel discussions, and industry case studies to provide an opportunity for attendees to both learn and engage.

If you're not yet a SPESA Member, you can use my code XOCHIL to get $100 off your non-member ticket!

I'm proud to be moderating a session with Robert McMillan of Dearborn Denim & Apparel on Thursday, August 28th, where we'll be discussing something I'm very passionate about: American manufacturing! Join me for "Making in America, Part 1 | Building a Brand with Local Roots."

Session Summary:

We talk a lot about the value of Made-in-America. But what does it truly mean to build locally? During this conversation, we’ll highlight a company that isn’t just talking about domestic manufacturing — it’s building its entire business around it. Robert McMillan, Founder & CEO of Dearborn Denim & Apparel, will join us to share the story behind his Chicago-based, made-to-order brand that has been committed to U.S. production from day one. From an unconventional career pivot into apparel manufacturing to a swift and strategic production shift during the Covid-19 pandemic, McMillan has navigated challenge and change with a firm belief in local resilience. This conversation will explore what it takes to keep a supply chain close to home, and why doing so still matters.

You can learn more about this event, as well as register, HERE. Check out additional session topics HERE.

PODCAST: The Fabric of America - Episode 43

Fri, 27 Jun 2025 12:13:11 GMT

Yes, it CAN be Made in America!

The Connective Threads - June 2025 "X-FILES"

Thu, 26 Jun 2025 09:28:13 GMT

With temps nearly in the triple digits, summer is in full swing! Our last event was the SEAMS “Supply Chain USA” Pavilion at Texprocess Americas, held in Atlanta nearly eight weeks ago. In my April blog, I wrote about the inspiration for the Supply Chain Showcase – this time I’d like to share a little more about the participants, and the variety of products we were able to highlight in such a short time.

Set up as a curated museum or boutique where visitors could walk through and view products up-close, we brought in a lot of attention to our pavilion. We engaged with attendees and the press during our guided media tour, and even managed to get a local television field reporter out to learn more about the project and the SEAMS Association (alas, “breaking news” stole our spotlight, but I still consider this a big win for our organization and our message).

Let me take you on a “virtual tour” of this project, which was a true labor of love to pull together. If you recall, the criteria for the display was to have at least three or more members involved in the production process, to best highlight the collaborative nature of our organization.

To attract and lead attendees to our space, we placed mannequins in the main aisle (thank you to Lectra). First, you’ll encounter a men’s look featuring a navy “USA” sweatshirt made by America Knits, paired with gray outdoor pants by NW Alpine Gear, manufactured by member Sparta Luxe. A few aisles later, getting closer, you’ll see a women’s colorblocked white and pink sweatsuit set, which I designed using Clover Knits fabric, and produced with Lefty Production Co.

As you enter the SEAMS Supply Chain USA space, you’ll first encounter a custom designed women’s activewear look, which I designed and created with Lefty Production Co. as my production partner. The windbreaker jacket utilized MMI Textiles for the fabrication and all components, while the legging and sports bra combo highlighted a double-sided knit fabric from Beverly Knits.

To your right, you’ll see a few hanging items: NW Alpine Gear Outdoor shirt manufactured by Sparta Luxe, a U.S. Marines sweater by Heartland Manufacturing and a U.S. Navy pant made by National Industries for the Blind factory, Alphapointe. Continuing to the left, you’ll see a men’s three-piece look featuring SwedePro chainsaw protective pants by Grand Forest, a t-shirt by America Knits and finished with a wool shirt jacket by Hank’s Hard Goods, who held the record for most SEAMS member involvement, seven members!

On the table next to this, there was an opportunity to see and handle the raw materials – Grand Forest sent examples from their suppliers, including Harodite, MMI Textiles, YKK and Champion Thread.

Continuing to the left, you’ll see a variety of items on the shelving units that invite a closer look. The first display holds a bedding set from Red Land Cotton, with fabric from Hamrick Mills; children’s collegiate sports apparel by Third Street Sportswear; Archer Wren underwear set manufactured by Clothier Design Source; Hank’s Hard Goods leather belt manufactured by Eric Scott Leathers; and a military tourniquet manufactured by National Industries for the Blind factory, Alphapointe.

On the second shelf, you’ll find a knit beanie cap sewn by America Knits, knitted by Contempora Fabrics with UNIFI yarns; and a celebratory “250 Years, Made in USA” hemp baseball cap made by Unionwear. Below this, you’ll see a pain relief back wrap by NuFabrx, knitted by Innovaknits; alongside an FR protective shirt made by Coville, Inc; a pair of uniform work shirts, a button down and a polo style by Workwear Outfitters; and finally, a tactical K9 vest made by Eric Scott Leathers; and a military chest plate carrier made by CustomFab USA.

Above our shelving display, we reinforced the messaging of the display with signage above each that read “yes, you can,” and “make it in the USA,” along with a map that highlighted our coast-to-coast members.

The 46 SEAMS member companies who were part of this showcase were:

America Knits

American & Efird (A&E)

Asheboro Elastics (AEC)

Beverly Knits

Big Duck Canvas

Buhler Quality Yarns

Champion Thread Company

Clothier Design Source

Clover Knits

Contempora Fabrics

Coville

Custom Fab USA

Custom Metal Crafters

Draper Knitting

Dunn Trimming & Binding

Dunlap Industries

Eric Scott Leathers

Fireflyline

Franklin Braid

GSI – Gerald Schwartz Inc.

Ghering Tricot Corp.

Grand Forest

Hamrick Mills

Hank's Hard Goods

Harodite Industries

Heartland Manufacturing

InnovaKnits

Interstate Narrow Fabrics

Lefty Production Co.

Manufacturing Solutions Center

Milliken

Minnewawa Inc.

MMI Textiles

National Industries for the Blind (NIB) - Alphapointe NY

National Safety Apparel

NuFabrx

Ocean State Innovations

Printcraft Company

Sparta Luxe

The Chicago Pattern Maker

Thermopatch

Third Street Sportswear

UNIFI

Unionwear

Workwear Outfitters

YKK

Additionally, I would like to acknowledge the software and equipment members, who are an integral part of the manufacturing process.

Equipment:

Bierrebi International

Eton Systems, Inc.

Groz-Beckert USA Inc.

Henderson Machinery Inc.

Henderson Sewing Machine Company, Inc.

International Technology, Inc.

The Fox Company

Juki America

Lectra

Monarch Knitting Machinery

Optimum Digital USA

Pathfinder Cutting Technology, LLC

Prizzi Sewing Machine Co.

Sewn Products Equipment Company

Trex Machine Group

Software/Technology:

Tukatech

Zund America, Inc.

Aptean

Avantex

Datatex

Incentive Payroll Experts, LLC

Infopine Inc.

Polygon Software, LLC

See the showcase come together

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Xochil Herrera Scheer #TheChicagoPatternMaker (@fashionxochil)

A huge thank you to Will Duncan for his support of this endeavor, for trusting me with this vision, and to Britt Moore, Ryan Smith and especially Nancy K for their involvement in the planning, coordination efforts and in setting up the physical display.

The incredible exhibition we've just explored truly highlights the power of interconnectedness and collaboration within our industry. We were genuinely astonished by the collective effort that brought this project to life. With contributions from nearly 70 members, we gathered and assembled more than 25 products in a remarkably short timeframe. This achievement far exceeded our expectations and stands as a testament to what we can accomplish when we work together.

As we look forward to the upcoming SEAMS + AATCC Fall Conference, let this showcase serve as an inspiring example of the benefits of a strong, connected network. As the first co-hosted conference of the Alphabet Soup Collective, we're proud to present robust programming and enhanced networking avenues. The conference is a fantastic chance to build new relationships, strengthen existing ones and explore collaborative ventures that will propel our industry forward.

We encourage everyone to attend, engage and continue fostering the spirit of shared success that made this showcase possible. Imagine the possibilities if we continue to expand this spirit of collaboration!

Yes, We Can - April 2025 "X-FILES"

Mon, 28 Apr 2025 12:04:43 GMT

In my February edition, I discussed two trade shows, one of which was Texworld New York City, where I represented the SEAMS Association. I met many people at the show who were looking for Made in USA manufacturing. However, the majority of the vendors present were from outside of the country, primarily from China or other parts of Asia. This experience is nothing new.

In fact, it was at that show, which took place during Inauguration Week, where a panel which focused on tariffs, one of the panelists stated that “no one wants to work in this industry, no one wants to make things, and no one wants their children to go work in a factory.” Now, this is a room FULL of people who do exactly that – make things. They are from all over the world, but they share that commonality. I found that sentiment to be extremely insulting to every person in that room. More than a bit peeved, I hoped for an opportunity to make a comment, but unfortunately I was not able to get to the mic in time from the booth.

More recently, there has been lots of news coverage on tariffs, where I am finding that both the delivery of such news, and the comment section on all these posts and stories contain an overwhelmingly negative attitude towards American manufacturing.

I don’t know about you, but this gets me fired up.

I really want to help dispel the myth that “you can’t make it here” and show people exactly what we are capable of. Yes, it is all too true that the industry is a fraction of what it once was, and we have unfortunately continued to lose mills and factories, even into the last five years. We stepped up to help our country in a time of dire need, and were rewarded with the immediate loss of work once cheaper options opened back up overseas. We know how capable we are.

We make a large variety of products domestically, and given the opportunity, I know that we would love to expand our capacities and capabilities. However, few companies are vertically integrated, and we rely on the brands to buy in. The present, and even the future of our industry, may never mirror what it was before – and there are different challenges today than in those days. A country can’t decimate an industry and expect it to come back at full force overnight.

Inspired and fueled by what happened in New York, I pitched this project to Will Duncan, how I wanted to highlight all the great things I know we already make, and show the public a variety of items that are made, and are possible. With his support, along with Britt Moore, Ryan Smith,and especially Nancy, SEAMS’ Business Manager, we started reaching out to SEAMS members to figure out how many items we could get together for the showcase in a relatively short timeframe.

This project took a lot of time, lots and LOTS of follow up. Connecting the dots to confirm supply chains, and gathering photos, logos, and physical products. Some of the obstacles I ran into were instances where a member had a fully Made in USA product, but didn’t have permission from the brand to share the supply chain, or that not enough components were from member companies. Part of our criteria for the showcase project was to have at least three or more members, to best highlight the collaboration involved. In order to get a well-rounded group of products, I decided to design and coordinate the production of a few custom pieces. I’m really excited about that, as I typically have to work within a brand’s perimeters, and was able to create using fabrics I haven’t gotten the chance to try yet, utilizing materials donated by Clover Knits, Beverly Knits and MMI Textiles..

What this showcase highlights is the interconnectedness and collaboration happening in our industry. While I understand and respect the thought of “protecting” one’s supply chain from competitors, I think what many brands don’t realize is that gatekeeping actually hurts the suppliers in some cases. The more business that supplier has, the more likely they are to not only stay open, but expand upon their capacity and capabilities, invest in their workforce and their equipment.

While you don’t want to give a competitor an edge, I’m glad that our members understand, and remember that we are not actually competing against one another, but we are competing against the suppliers all over the world. A rising tide raises all ships. I really admire when brands like Red Land Cotton, American Giant and NW Alpine Gear are transparent about their supply chains. Not always calling out by name, but if you ask, you’re likely to get an answer, as I did.

I am truly blown away how many pieces we were able to put together, and how many members contributed to this endeavor. We ended the project with more than 25 products, made by the combined efforts of more than 40 members (which is even more once we include the equipment suppliers and software company members that support the manufacturing of all of these products). This was so much more than I thought possible with such a short window of time to pull together. Thank you to everyone for your involvement. I hope this showcase will expand even further at the next Texprocess show in 2027!

I am so excited to unveil the SEAMS “Supply Chain USA Showcase” at Texprocess Americas next week and show everyone *exactly* what we are capable of. If you are planning to be in

Atlanta, please check it out at Booth #2847. You can also find me in several Tech Talks throughout the week, and I will be sharing my expertise on the symposium panel, “A Marketing How-To: From Strategy to Content to Close.” I especially look forward to sharing this showcase, and I know that our Pavilion will be busy as ever this year.

See the original post HERE.

PRESS: Xochil & Columbia College Chicago Collaboration - Featured on ABC 7 Chicago News

Thu, 22 May 2025 16:16:24 GMT

I co-teach the senior capstone class Concept to Consumer at Columbia College Chicago's School of Fashion with Allison Champion Leahy, and for the 2024-25 school year, I brought in my long-time industry friend Daryl Sneed, Founder & Creative Director of SOUNDOFF as our brand partner, who in turn was already collaborating with the Chicago Sky WNBA and their CMO Tania Haladner for customized team apparel and accessories. Together, with our 51 students majoring in Product Development and Fashion Merchandising, we embarked on an incredible journey...

Students researched heavily both brands, to gain an understanding the demographics and trends that would attract fans of the Sky and reach them in a new way. They worked through the prototyping process including drafting patterns, conducted several model fittings, created tech packs, planned and executed a professional photoshoot, created a marketing campaign and pop up shop plan, and curated a window display for the Michigan Avenue campus location (check it out through June 3rd at 618 S Michigan).

This is my 5th year working with Allison at Columbia and we've had some great partnerships, some have resulted in real product moving forward, but not to this scale and speed. It is so exciting for all of us to see the students' designs translated into real products sold by SOUNDOFF, which are debuting tonight at the Chicago Sky Opening Night game! Many of our students are attending the game tonight, and what a great way to cap of their college experience and celebrate this major accomplishment along with graduation.

This morning, I joined Daryl and six *grads* at ABC 7 Chicago, putting on a mini fashion show for host Val Warner. On Air: Nat Sass, Tiara Burton, Taryn Callion, Katherine Gibson, Jair Reyes, Allison Bell. You all rocked it! So glad I woke up at 4am for this!

Congratulations, I am SO proud of everyone. I'm humbled and happy that I could play a part in connecting, mentoring, troubleshooting, and cheerleading along the journey as it unfolded.

️
Check out the story video here.

Announcing SEAMS "Supply Chain USA Showcase" at Texprocess Americas

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 17:20:12 GMT

SEAMS will be highlighting a "Supply Chain USA Showcase" in our Pavilion this year at Texprocess Americas, featuring a curated display of 100% Made in America products.

This year's Pavilion will feature a boutique-style showcase highlighting approximately 20 products which were created collectively by the efforts of 40+ SEAMS members - which demonstrate the power of the U.S. Supply Chain in action. "Our membership is excited to share our industry skills and talent to grow textile and sewn product manufacturing in America," states Britt Moore, President of SEAMS.

This display represents a variety of market categories which highlight fashion apparel, headwear, bags, military and tactical gear, medical products, uniforms, and bedding. Featured items include currently available merchandise, along with a special curation of custom designs for the show.

To select the products for this exciting Made in the USA collaboration, the following criteria were required:

A minimum of 3 SEAMS member companies contributing to an item
Each item shall represent the US supply chain in every component or process (Including yarn, thread, labels, fabric, trims, and the full assembly process.)

“Our industry has extensive domestic capabilities across many categories and this Supply Chain USA Showcase proves that we can create, produce, and deliver products right here in America.”, states Will Duncan, Executive Director, SEAMS. Duncan continues, “This is the power of the SEAMS network. We would like to especially thank member and board member Xochil Herrera Scheer, owner of The Chicago Pattern Maker, for her extensive work in pulling this showcase together."

"I'm proud of the way so many members came together to contribute to this project. Together, we are responsible for the creation of so many products, and are eager to spread awareness for our varied capabilities and resources," affirmed Herrera Scheer.

The SEAMS Showcase will be on display throughout the Texprocess Americas event at the SEAMS Pavillion, Tuesday, May 6^th through Thursday, May 8^th at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta, GA. On Tuesday, May 6^th at 12:00pm ET we welcome the press and media to a formal guided media tour of the Supply Chain USA Showcase, with our members on hand to talk about their products.

In addition, we will be hosting a panel, “Made in America - A Conversation across the Domestic Supply Chain,” on Wednesday, May 7th from 8:00am to 9:15am in the symposium hall of the Georgia World Congress Center. The conversation will include SEAMS leadership and members listed below:

Will Duncan, SEAMS

Ron Roach, Contempora Fabrics

Mindy Martell, Clothier Design Source

Ryan Smith, Printcraft

Stacey Bryan Bridges, Hanes Dye and Finish, A Leggett & Platt Company

Texprocess Americas is the largest sewn products and technology tradeshow in the Americas, and is co-produced by SPESA and Messe Frankfurt. The show creates an opportunity for retail, brand, manufacturing executives, and professionals involved in the sewn products industry to meet with leading international manufacturers and distributors of machinery, equipment, parts, supplies, systems, technology, supply chain solutions, and other products and services used for the development of sewn products.

CONTACT: Please email nkinder@seams.org for advance registration to the SEAMS Supply Chain Showcase Guided Press Tour, or for more information about SEAMS.

Sincerely,

Will Duncan

SEAMS Executive Director

TEXPROCESS 2025

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 11:48:30 GMT

Thanks for stopping by our booth at Texprocess - it was great to meet you!

A little bit about us:

We’re a product development company that helps clients bring their ideas to life! We serve many areas of the industry - mens and womenswear, swimwear, activewear, sleepwear, ready-to-wear, outerwear, and more. We even have experience working with bedding and home goods items.

While we specialize in pattern making, we also offer tech design, tech pack, prototype, fabric sourcing, and factory advisory services.

Click here to see a sampling of projects we’ve worked on.

WE’D LOVE TO WORK WITH YOU!

We are actively taking on new clients and would love to learn more about your project! Tell us about your designs, timeline, budget, and project needs, and we can set up an introductory call.

Click here to fill out our form.
Click here to view our services and rates.

XOCHIL IS A PROUD MEMBER OF THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

Still at the show? Xochil will be participating in the following Texprocess Tech Talks - we’d love to see you there!

May 6th
11:00 AM - A Collective Collab: Get to Know the Alphabet Soup Collective
1:15 PM - Can AI Revolutionize OEE? Unlocking Efficiency, Downtime Reduction and Quality in Low-Volume Manufacturing
2:45 PM - Twenty Minutes in Trade

May 7th
11:00 AM - Innovation Awards
1:15 PM - Grow Your Capacity with a Multi-Skilled Workforce Utilizing Technology and Automation
2:45 PM - Revolutionizing 3D Sewn Product Development with Generative AI
3:30 PM - The Textile Doctor

May 8th
11:00 AM - Micro-Factories in the Real World: Rethinking US Production
11:45 AM - Threading The Needle

DID WE MISS YOU? SEND US AN EMAIL AT INFO@XOCHIL.COM!

EVENT: Texprocess Americas 2025

Tue, 15 Apr 2025 18:04:24 GMT

It’s less than a month until Texprocess Americas 2025 takes place! From May 6th to May 8th, I’ll be in Atlanta attending the show to take part in several talks, as well as exhibiting - I’m excited to be sharing a booth within the SEAMS "Supply Chain USA" Pavilion with Clothier Design Source and The Apparel Mentor.

Over three days, I’ll be moderating several tech talks, with sessions discussing new innovations in medical textiles to hot topics like trade issues with respect to tariffs, trade policy and legislation and how it affects the textile and garment industry. I’ll also be a speaker as well, sharing my thoughts on how small-batch production and streamlined product development enable rapid innovation and enhanced market responsiveness; and how shop floor technology and automation can simplify cross-training, build trust, and improve employee retention.

See below for all of the talks I’ll be participating in:

Tuesday 5/6 2:45 PM - Twenty Minutes in Trade

Chaos and turmoil abound as President Trump leaps onto the trade scene with a very strong agenda. Unfortunately, the churning of potential tariffs has many senior executives losing sleep. We will try to unpack what is currently happening in Washington DC on trade issues with respect to tariffs, trade policy and legislation. Join us for an engaging and informative session to talk about trade issues.

Wednesday 5/7 1:15 PM - Grow Your Capacity with a Multi-Skilled Workforce Utilizing Technology and Automation

Remove traditional manufacturing hurdles, accurately map out and grow your capacity, regardless of your company size. Investing in your team is just as important as investing in your technology. A multi-skilled, engaged workforce is key to long-term success. Explore how shop floor technology and automation can simplify cross-training, build trust and improve employee retention. Gain knowledge from real-time data to enhance both the work experience and overall efficiency.

Wednesday 5/7 2:45 PM - Revolutionizing 3D Sewn Product Development with Generative AI

The textile industry is on the cusp of a tech revolution, and AI is leading the charge. Discover how AI is streamlining bag design, from generating initial concepts to optimizing prints for efficiency and aesthetics.

Agile domestic manufacturers can make products on demand with precise appeal to ever-shrinking market segments—and now AI makes it possible to automate demand-driven product development by combining raw materials, processes, and patterns to create unlimited SKUs with photorealistic images and fully developed product pages and costings.

AI can also move beyond the limitations of 2D image generation and engineer prints on 3D products, opening up a world of possibilities for innovative textile products. Combine these tools with automation on your production line, and witness the future of sewing with robots that can handle complex tasks with precision and speed, increasing productivity and reducing labor costs.

Wednesday 5/7 3:30 PM - The Textile Doctor

Learn how medicine can save the US Textile market. This panel will explore medical textiles, new innovations in materials and wearables, and discuss what the US textile industry is missing today.

Thursday 5/8 11:00 AM - Micro-Factories in the Real World: Rethinking US Production

Today's rapidly changing consumer demands are challenging traditional supply chains. This session explores how micro-factories are revolutionizing US manufacturing by offering a more agile and responsive approach. We'll delve into how small-batch production and streamlined product development enable rapid innovation and enhanced market responsiveness. Learn how this model empowers brands to test product viability, maintain lean inventories, and adapt quickly to market trends, ultimately providing a competitive edge. We'll examine how micro-factories fit into the broader supply chain, address the biggest hurdles to implementation, and explore the specific capabilities where micro-factories excel and the significant benefits they offer brands.

Thursday 5/8 11:45 AM - Threading the Needle

Join us for a Podcast-style session recapping the overarching themes of Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America 2025, identifying areas of growth and innovation. Surprise guests will take a seat on the couch to share thoughts on the state of the industry and the show's impact.

Being a part of Texprocess is always such a fantastic experience, and I’m looking forward to these three days in Atlanta. Come see us at booth #2841!

Learn more HERE.

PRESS: Where Fit Meets Function - A New Era In Women's Protective Gear (Specialty Fabrics Review, ATA)

Thu, 06 Mar 2025 16:55:40 GMT

I'm honored to have contributed to the article, "Where Fit Meets Function - A New Era In Women's Protective Gear" by Kelly Hartog for Specialty Fabrics Review magazine (published by Advanced Textiles Association) about women's personal protective equipment (PPE).

Kelly asked me to weigh in on the issues that women face when trying to find protective garments that fit well and work properly at the same time.

Women's workwear and PPE is making important strides and improvements, but there is further to go! I love being able to play a role in this alongside my clients in developing better performing clothing options.

Special Thank You to Xena Workwear (Ana Kraft) and KADRI Clothing (Katheryn Basso) for allowing me to share the products we worked on together!

Original article can be found HERE.

Designing the Future - February 2024 "X-Files"

Wed, 28 Feb 2024 16:08:01 GMT

It’s conference season!

Excuse me, but when is it NOT conference season around here?

One of the surprising things I was delighted to find out about our industry because it is constantly evolving and moving, there is plenty of new information and insightful conversations to be shared. My friends and colleagues are what I would lovingly describe as “lifelong learners”. The educational opportunities never stop, and that’s an amazing and wonderful thing.

On the flip side, I find it interesting that we seem to miss a lot of early exposure and experiences for those not yet in our industry, and could do a better job about reaching those who don’t even know about us, and sharing the vast opportunities that exist.

Having spoken to many different groups of people, ranging from industry professionals at trade shows and conferences, to high school and college students, to youth groups like Girl Scouts and creative arts summer camps, I’ve shared aspects of my own journey in a variety of ways. This month, I was asked to address a new audience - high school educators - with the context of helping them to realize potential career paths and opportunities that they could share with their students, and also help prepare them for these pathways. Stimulated by this prospect, I was eager to reflect a bit more deeply into my past, and specifically how various teachers, classes, situations and opportunities have shaped who I am today. Each of us is the sum of our varied experiences, and that’s hard to duplicate. However, I found through polling colleagues that we shared similar interests and experiences from our youth. How exciting to find there might be a bit of a “recipe” for finding someone with an aptitude for a similar path!

What incredible gifts I was given towards my future, with teachers who cared deeply about not only my learning outcome for the class, but for me as a person. In middle school, I was introduced to “tech ed”, which was sort of a generalized class that tried to cover a lot of ground - from CNC wood cutting to make race cars, to designing a space helmet using paper-mâché. In high school, these classes evolved to include things like aviation flight simulators and architectural drafting - both by hand and using a 3D computer program called AutoCAD. While I was trying my hand at creating walls and cylinders in CAD, I wondered how cool it would be if I could somehow draw a 3D model of a mannequin. Unfortunately, 3D fashion design tools were decades in the future, but I did some research and presented my teacher with a program that would work with AutoCAD to import 2D patterns that I could play with and modify. He managed to get it purchased for me and that was pretty awesome.

During this time, I was also learning Adobe Photoshop and InDesign for the yearbook club (which I later led as Editor my senior year); and mostly kept up my sewing passion on the side, making myself outfits for school dances, or creating pieces for family and friends. Having learned that skill at a young age, and having a lot of practice already, I felt much too advanced for the single sewing class my high school offered. However, I found out about my local community college offerings, and enrolled in an adult continuing education course in the evening, learning more advanced sewing and pattern manipulations. I couldn’t even drive myself to class yet… but my mom signed off on it, and I absolutely loved it. I shared this experience with my guidance counselor the following fall, and she told me about a program that my high school had with the community college, where I could take more classes and the school district would pay for it. Amazing. I decided to drop my more grueling courses (AP economics, looking at you) and skip sports my senior year, and instead spent two half days a week taking advanced sewing and pattern drafting classes. It absolutely gave me the incredible leg up that, alongside my courses for my bachelor’s degree after this, gave me an unparalleled foundation to build from. This is hardly the end of the story, but I think it was a pivotal time in my life, where I realized I could take this passion and turn it into something more serious.

I share this intimate recollection with you, as some insight into who I am, and to perhaps inspire your own introspection of your journey. Who in your life, and what happened, along the way, to shape who you are?

There are many examples of dual track educational opportunities around the country, and in various fields or areas of interest. It’s common to see tracks designed for healthcare careers, construction trades, automotive, and advanced manufacturing, among others. I would love to learn about and see this type of educational path in textiles and sewn products manufacturing; and expand upon potential apprenticeship programs that exist. That may be a taller order than most of us can swallow; but what we can all do is visit schools as a speaker or open up your doors for a tour; network with educators in your area to help them understand your current challenges and what you are looking for in your future workforce.

Think forward - don’t just talk to older high school and college students, but reach out to middle schools too. Those early experiences can sometimes be hard to tell if they’re actually interested or not, but they’ve got to be exposed to know one way or another. I definitely believe those early problem solving activities including making a wooden racecar and fashioning a helmet from a balloon and paper, working through different design challenges, helped to inspire me on some level to go into product development. The younger generations Z and Alpha are looking for that same spark, and it’s up to us to light the way.

Featured in SEAMS.

Winter Whispers of Optimism - February 2025 "X-FILES"

Thu, 27 Feb 2025 13:17:30 GMT

Twenty Twenty-Five, and what a ride so far! It seems from my recent reading and conversations that we all are working on a number of initiatives for the new year, trying to find balance between being proactive and reactive to the times. January kicked off with two tradeshows – SHOT Show in the desert of Las Vegas, and Texworld NYC in cold, snowy Manhattan. Many of our members participated in SHOT, including our leaders Will Duncan and Britt Moore; as such, I was asked to represent the organization on the East Coast. I jumped at the opportunity, as it had been several years since my last visit, and I thought it would be great to meet new people, and visit with vendors and industry colleagues, and of course talk up our great Association.

PHOTO: XOCHIL AT SEAMS BOOTH AT TEXWORLD NYC WINTER 2025 EDITION

Texworld NYC was fairly busy each day. In the SEAMS booth, I met with several attendees whose brands were interested in Made in USA manufacturing. Unfortunately, there were a very small number of U.S. suppliers present at this show. I was happy however to see some fellow SEAMS members who walked the show - Mitch Cahn of Unionwear and Ryan Smith of Printcraft. I spoke at the Exhibitor Pitch Stage, shared information about SEAMS and how people could utilize our network, resources and membership – and there was great interest there. This confirms to me that this show has some real opportunities for our members to get in front of brands who are eager to either move or diversify their supply chain, or who are starting out and want to keep things close to home.

PHOTO: TEXWORLD NYC - EXHIBITOR PITCH STAGE - "SEAMS: SOURCING YOUR USA SUPPLY CHAIN START TO FINISH"

Unionwear exhibited in 2024, and they shared that they had a good experience. Printcraft walked the show for the first time this year, and is strongly considering exhibiting in future editions.Ryan Smith states that while there wasn’t “much benefit to walking Texworld NYC Winter Edition as a trim supplier, [as] there were only a few domestic exhibitors, which are the majority of our market,” that he “met a few people at the SEAMS booth who were producing domestically, so it makes me think that exhibiting would be more beneficial. Additionally, the overall energy felt great, and the Textile Talks were super interesting and passionate.”

PHOTOS: Meeting People at Texworld NYC - SEAMS Booth

Both January shows took place the same week as the Inauguration, and thus was a hot topic of discussion. I listened in on some of these conversations as part of the Tech Talks, particularly one that focused on tariffs, which was popular, as we know a lot will change this year. I asked my colleagues who attended both shows for their thoughts on the market:

Ryan Smith shared, “We are sensing more confidence in the market, specifically in furniture and textiles. It seems that optimism for domestic investment is on the rise with promising signals from the Trump administration. It is all too soon to tell exactly what the year holds, but we are feeling more confident in a rejuvenated and more stabilized supply chain.”

Back in Las Vegas, similar sentiments were shared regarding outlook on the year ahead:

Kevin McCarter (Clover Knits) noted, “Our U.S. supply chain has taken some tough hits over the past two years. We are hoping for an uptick in demand industry wide that will strengthen the balance sheet of everyone up and down the textile supply chain.”

Britt Moore (BK Fabrics LLC) stated, “I foresee a lot of inconsistencies in the U.S. supply chain for the first half of 2025, as everyone learns how the new Administration’s policies will impact the market. I expect more stability later in 2025 and 2026; however it is yet to be seen [whether] the net impact is positive or negative. Government awards and programs are one area where increased demand should be seen; however this area is also likely to see the messiest demand spikes and pullbacks in the first half of 2025. In short, I am expecting a lot of turbulence near-term, with the hope of stability longer term.”

On the show itself, I received glowing reviews. Geoff Senko (Ocean State Innovations) remarked that “SHOT Show 2025 was nothing short of incredible. With the largest Supplier Showcase in the event’s history – boasting over 400 exhibitors and thousands of attendees – the energy and momentum throughout the convention center were undeniable. We have exhibited at this show for three years straight. The excitement was palpable, a testament to the strength of our industry heading into 2025. Our table was consistently bustling with activity as we showcased our extensive product lines, reinforcing OSI’s position as the premier source for textile raw materials in the tactical space.”

He said he was impressed with the response from attendees, noting a bright future, “From military procurement specialists to tactical gear manufacturers, the interest in cutting-edge materials and innovative solutions was higher than ever. Beyond showcasing our products, this was an invaluable opportunity to connect with industry partners, discuss emerging trends and solidify OSI’s commitment to supporting warfighters with the highest-quality materials available.”

Clover Knits is a fifth-time exhibitor at the SHOT Supplier Showcase, and Kevin McCarter was very pleased, “SHOT is a good show for us as a replacement for the Outdoor Retailer Show. We have existing customers and suppliers that we see, along with the opportunity to meet new customers. We thought the show this year was like past years in terms of energy and attendance.”

Britt Moore has been attending and exhibiting at SHOT for six years, though this is the first time showing for BK Fabrics. He remarks that the growing show has “continued to build on the energy of previous years and was as busy as [ever]. There was a lot of positive energy for both exhibitors and attendees, with a lot of the excitement coming from the change in Administration. This energy carried over into interest in U.S. manufacturing due to the concern of possible tariffs and a more U.S.-first focus. In addition, there was also a section of attendees that voiced concern about [a lack of] control or insight into their supply chain from non-North American manufacturers. This lack of transparency had many interested in bringing their production back to the U.S.”

While the last month has been wrought with challenges and changes, some back and forth, overall there is still much optimism for our industry, and my hope is that things will start to settle, and positive outcomes prevail. Drawing upon recent conversations, along with themes and lessons from recent shows, it makes me look forward to fresh perspectives at our hemisphere’s largest show, Texprocess Americas in May, and for tightened collaborative efforts between associations, and among the domestic supply chain. I feel confident that the SEAMS Pavilion will be busy as ever.

See the original post HERE.

RECAP: Texworld NYC 2025

Fri, 07 Feb 2025 16:42:37 GMT

At the end of January, I flew out to NYC to attend Texworld. While there, I ran the SEAMS booth and gave 2 separate pitch talks. It was a great trip and I got to meet and reconnect with many colleagues and even some clients!

Day one started out with a little side trip. As soon as I landed at LGA, I headed straight over to National Textile Industries’ facility in Brooklyn, where I met with owner Jay Gagliano. He graciously showed me around so I could experience firsthand the process of how they manufacture their bias bindings, tapes, and trims. It was incredible to see all the machines in action, machines that have been running for DECADES, and hearing stories about the past, present, and future of this 3rd Generation business.

One question I had to ask was about the origin of the color names. While working on some custom trim for our client Red Land Cotton, we landed on a color called Nate's Mustard, which was named for Nate's Hotdogs in Coney Island. Other color names and number codes had special stories as well - named for family members, friends, industry partners, phone numbers, zip codes, and birthdays. Jay showed me the color swatch book from the early 1960s, and I appreciated learning so much in one morning.

On the first day of Texworld, I presented my Pitch Session, "Own Your Product Development - Why Patterns and Tech Packs are Critical for Your Brand's Success.” I packed a lot of info in 15 minutes, speaking to a full audience followed by a fantastic Q&A session.

I also met with a lot of wonderful people while manning the SEAMS Association booth, and was able to recommend our Power Search tool, talk about our upcoming events, and even pulled up some suppliers for specific recommendations.

On day two of the show, I presented my second pitch, titled "SEAMS: Sourcing Your USA Supply Chain Start to Finish.” It was another great turnout. Afterwards, I ran into one of my current clients, as well as a potential new client! I also was able to get to know an industry friend who I hadn’t met in-person before, as she was my booth neighbor at the show. It was so much fun to hang out with her. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – it’s always an amazing experience being able to meet people face-to-face, especially those who I’ve been in contact with digitally but never in real-life.

In between tours, talks, and the booth, I had time to check out some cool bars and restaurants, including Tokyo Record Bar and Oscar Wilde. The nightlife is always fantastic in NYC! I felt like I was able to pack so much into my four-day trip.

Time always flies when I’m traveling, but I’ll be back in New York in a few months for the Women in Textiles Summit, and I am so looking forward to it. 2024 was my most traveled year to date, but already 2025 looks like it’ll be an even busier year!

Closing 2024 With Reflection And Vision For The Future - December 2024 "X-FILES"

Tue, 17 Dec 2024 15:00:10 GMT

It’s hard to believe another year is coming to a close. I find myself reflecting not only on this past year, but also on the last five years. It was in 2019 that I joined SEAMS, participated in my first conference that spring as an attendee and then as a panelist in the fall on “Shaping the Future of Our Industry: Millennials.” Following that panel, SEAMS introduced the article “Millennial Corner” which highlighted the stories of my peers, and I was among those who contributed that year, and was the precursor to the advent of the X-Files series you read today.

In 2019 I started to really put myself out there into the larger industry; at the same time I was starting and then later closing a new, failed, business partnership, and personally dealing with the cancer discovery, battle, and then loss of my biggest cheerleader, my Dad. I entered 2020 at a major low point, but forged forward and found light in different places, and was happy to maintain relationships with family, friends, colleagues and clients in a mostly virtual year. It was that year I was invited to teach at Columbia College Chicago, and I found a new sense of purpose through mentoring and connecting with young people entering the fashion industry. Collaboration was the word of the year, and it took on a whole new meaning for everyone.

In 2024, I traveled more than ever and was involved with several speaking engagements, panels and planning committees for conferences and trade events. I joined the SEAMS Board at the beginning of this year, and was humbled to be presented with the Sarah Friedman Award at the Fall Conference in Mobile, Ala. My business has continued to grow, and I have a great team. To say all of this was unimaginable five years ago is a major understatement. I am incredibly grateful for all who have supported me throughout my life, my career and my journey to get here.

I recall even further back to my early days growing up, when my grandmother taught me how to sew doll clothes by hand, or the year I made potholders for everyone in my family using a basic plastic weaving loom. This year, I introduced my daughter (9) to knitting as part of a Girl Scouts project. She fashioned a simple circular knitting loom from a paper towel roll and popsicle sticks, ultimately knitting a 5-foot-long scarf. I shared with her and her troop how what they just learned applied to real equipment and manufacturing. Their rudimentary knitting project could be considered the baby step towards operating a full-size circular knitting machine. These types of experiences may spark some interest in creating, and it’s never too early to sow the seeds for the future. This year I participated in an Eighth Grade Career Fair, which was awesome to interact with younger students, and help to foster their interests in various fields including manufacturing and design.

Entering 2025 for many of us may be filled with mixed emotions, no matter what each is dealing with in their businesses professionally, or in their personal lives. There may be feelings of both uncertainty and excitement, but above all, we need to remember our collaborative spirit and community as we forge ahead. Rather than be swept up in a sea of “what if’s,” let’s enter this second quarter of the 21st century with consideration and reflection of the past, so that we may better appreciate our present, and take leadership in the future ahead.

Many of the topics which were top of mind as we closed 2019 are the same as now: workforce development, recruiting and retention; sustainability and the circular economy; Industry 4.0 and digital transformation of manufacturing; nearshoring and reshoring initiatives; the call for further supply chain transparency, and creation of an “even playing field” for U.S. textile and sewn products companies.

2020 kicked everything on its head, but we are still contending with these same challenges and changes. This time, we are more resilient and more connected than ever. We made it through the toughest of times together, and we will continue to fight these fights.

January brings two great opportunities for SEAMS members: the SHOT Show in Las Vegas and Texworld in NYC. We look to bring in new customers and new members who share our vision and mission to support and grow the U.S. supply chain. Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America will be co-located in Atlanta this May, with a SEAMS pavilion and our famous TopGolf Networking Bash. And, we have a *very* exciting Annual Conference coming up this fall. I hope you’ll make time to get involved this year – together, we can achieve our goals and have the best results.

I wish everyone a very happy holiday season, with a renewed spirit to tackle the new year ahead!

Cheers my friends!

~Xochil

See the original post HERE.

RECAP: Chicago Fashion Week 2024

Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:44:43 GMT

Chicago Fashion Week kicked off on October 9th with The Curio’s “A Celebration of Chicago Style” show, which featured the works of 7 amazing Chicago-based designers: Barbara Bates, Christina Karin, Gente Fina, I Am Studios, Justin LeBlanc, Maria Pinto & Sheila Rashid . It was held at the iconic, historical landmark Chicago Cultural Center, in front of 500 guests! I was super impressed with the show, the designers absolutely all brought out their best. The overall experience was fantastic and the energy in the room was just inspiring to take in.

The event was supported by the donation of the venue by The City of Chicago, Select Models Chicago, hair styling by Tricoci Salon & Spa, make-up artistry by Ashunta Sheriff, fashion show production by Zzazz Productions & Show Sounds by DJ Akib, Styled by Sal Yvet, florals by Hola Lola Florals Co. with beverages from: Inspiro Tequila, Playpen Vodka, and sparkling, white & rose from Mmmm…Enjoy wines, with light bites by The Hearty Boys. DJ Andrew Emil kept things lively at the two Receptions. And thanks to Celeste for hosting the after-party!

On October 15^th during the second week of CFW, I treated my TCPM team to a night out for the FGI Chicago Rising Star Awards, of which my company The Chicago Pattern Maker was a sponsor.

I have a long history with FGI – I’ve been a member since 2007, a board member for 6 years, and was Regional Director for 2 years, so it's all the more personal to be in a position where I can share and celebrate with my crew!

One of my clients and good friends Ellie Spoerer of Ellie Day Sportswear was up for an award, along with other friends Dana Todd (winner of the Technology Innovation Award), Delphine Pontvieux of NYET Jewelry (winner in Accessory Design), and many more. It was also super fun to see the iconic design duo Badgley Mischka presented with the Icon Award for the evening.

To wrap up 2024 Chicago Fashion Week, I attended the third annual Chicago Fashion Showcase on October 17th, held in the beautiful Great Hall of Chicago’s Union station. Designers Petra Poorova, Sabrina Lombardo, Angela Kingsawan, Lauren Lein, Ganitzia Vargas, and Emmanual Cabrera showed their latest collections, with designs ranging from contemporary womenswear to sustainable and eco-conscious clothing to garments inspired by designers’ heritage. It was a fantastic show, and a wonderful way to close out a week of celebrating Chicago fashion!

The Made In America Resistance Is Now - October 2024 "X-FILES"

Sun, 03 Nov 2024 14:21:57 GMT

This Fall we weathered some major challenges – those of us who traveled through Hurricane Francine were stressed about the trip, navigated some choppy flights and delayed schedules, but ultimately we arrived safely in Mobile, Ala. to experience surprisingly nice weather, and a truly fantastic lineup of speakers at the SEAMS Annual Fall Conference.

It feels disingenuous to speak about this minor hurricane without acknowledging the far more devastating storm, Hurricane Helene, which ravaged Western North Carolina just a couple weeks later, and has wiped out homes, businesses, roads and more. Many of our friends (industry and otherwise) in the area will continue to deal with the effects and aftermath of this disaster for a long time – and they will need help to rebuild. I urge you to review local organizations as well as check in with our colleagues in the area to see how we can assist them, to ensure we don’t lose more of our American textile industry. For instance, SEAMS member Apex Mills has established a fully developed supply chain to provide support to the area. They are accepting donations of products at their facility in Graham, NC. The products are then transported and delivered at the local level, in partnership with Kimesville Road Baptist Church in Burlington, NC, and Anchor Missions International, in Pisgah Forest, NC.

The inspiration for this article came to me in September, sparked by the energizing and gritty keynote story of perseverance told by Origin Brands founder, Pete Roberts. He walked us through the highs and lows of designing and manufacturing his first products, of waking up realizing things could and *should* be better. He built his own manufacturing facility, restored a loom, abandoned by time, and enlisted the help of craftsmen to learn the skills necessary to do it here, and do it right.

This message reverberated through the conference room, and was reinforced by “Making It In America” author, Rachel Slade, whom I interviewed on the final day of the conference. Having read her book earlier in the year, and having worked with many countless small brands over my career, the stories of Origin Brands and American Roots (profiled by Slade), resonated with me on several levels. Determined to learn all I possibly could and get better at my craft (pattern making) I spent many hours early in my career working with the factories I was partnered with on behalf of the brands I worked with, to become a better pattern maker, designing for manufacturability. I wasn’t paid for those hours by my clients, but it was the best educational experience I could have ever asked for, and those hours are what earns me my living today.

The industry as it stands today is one that is resilient beyond measure. We have collectively been hit hard by several storms in recent years, stemming from decades of outsourced manufacturing, to Covid more recently, which only exacerbated existing issues around rising shipping costs, tariffs and trade issues including the de minimis rules.

The industry has made a good effort to stand its ground, but at a certain point, we have to fortify and fight back. The losses over the last several years (and months) are devastating and impact our supply chain beyond the loss of a single company. We are losing integral parts of our industry, but also of our country.

When Pete spoke about his experience of having his designs knocked off by his own factory contractor overseas, and how he got mad – he wasn’t just experiencing an emotion. He made it a driving force in building a U.S. supply chain – taking his brand from one of many “Designed in USA,” to one of fewer “MADE IN USA.” This was a call to activate, to rise to the challenge of our rival (queue up “Eye of the Tiger” by Survivor here).

In my talk with Rachel Slade, we discussed similar themes, and her passion for manufacturing was thrilling to experience. Having someone shine a light on the issues that we care deeply about, telling the story of American Roots and their tenacity to succeed as a first-generation factory and brand. What I also appreciated about her book, and what she shared on stage with us, was her deep dive into the history of the textile industry, and how it was absolutely fueled by our founding fathers’ desire for independence.

During the war of 1812 Francis Cabot Lowell used his photographic memory to bring the power loom from Britain to America, jumpstarting the American Industrial Revolution. In the early days of our nation, it was understood that to be a strong, independent country, we needed to make our own goods, rather than rely so heavily on imports.

Knowing this history, it’s crazy to think of how much has been forgotten, for us to be where we are today.

The world is obviously much different than it was in the 1700s, and to some degree, globalization is a positive thing. However, we really do need to get back to our roots as a country. The stories, both old and new, need to spread further – so that any random American understands the true perils of continuing to shop the likes of Temu, Shein and others. Let’s not save a dollar today and rob ourselves of a future.

An aside – I am positively delighted when reading internet comments on random posts and articles where people use the words “Temu” and “Shein” as adjectives to describe poor quality or knock-off editions of anything from a bad outfit or a cheap piece of jewelry, to painted Chow Chow dogs made out to be pandas in a Chinese zoo. The SNL skit “Xiemu ” hit on this earlier this year – Americans are starting to wake up … but we still have to get them to care and change their buying habits. Still, some mainstream recognition of the problem is still a starting point.

We know that the dollars spent at American companies are reinvested heavily into the communities in which they reside, and a rising tide raises all boats. But that idea seems to have been lost at sea.

So, how can we fight back?

It starts with conversations, but those need to lead to action. The Alphabet Soup Collective that I highlighted in my last blog is a great start. We need more articles and books and documentaries to highlight successful textile supply chain stories.

USA Today reports that young people are deciding to eschew the big city and live in smaller towns. We’ve heard it before, and probably again: Gen Z values work-life balance more than a big paycheck (Fortune). According to Vogue Business, they’re interested in videos about fashion factories on TikTok, and it’s proven that making physical things brings a sense of true accomplishment and pride in one’s work (Psychology Today), something that pushing papers and attending endless meetings will never. Think about someone under 30 – they’ve experienced the world in all its vastness in a digital manner, they’re quick to learn and adopt new technologies. However, take a moment to consider why the music aisle in stores are full of vinyl records again (New York Times)? Tactile, physical experiences, being a part of something bigger than one’s self – all are contributing here. How can we harness these trends?

Board member proving that making it here can be done

I’ve had several great conversations with colleagues following the conferences and trade events I attended this Fall. I spoke with fellow SEAMS Board member Steve Hawkins, which started as a 30 minute call to get a couple comments and learn more about each other’s businesses, and evolved into an hour and a half where I met members of his team, did a virtual tour of his facility, and I gained a better understanding for what drives his thriving business, America Knits.

Early in our meeting I was introduced to two young members of his team, and as we continued, I was fascinated and excited to learn that they were hardly alone in their age bracket. Steve has made a concerted effort in choosing a location which is close to supply chain partners, near to Georgia Southern University, and is in a rural small town where young people want to stay and make a life. He’s found by offering flexible daytime hours, he’s attracted young people who value their work-life balance. He spends time identifying which personalities will thrive better in various roles, making cross training a priority, and has invested in automation, which makes the work more interesting and less stressful for the worker, while being more efficient for the plant.

Steve recognizes that the younger generation is not inherently invested into working at a single company for life. His company culture is more of a “family vibe, family business,” and by being flexible (someone can work a shift with school-aged children and be home to meet the afternoon bus, for example), he has found that “a lot more people want to stay here.”

Training people in multiple roles will give them the skills and opportunity to run their own plant within three years, giving America Knits, as well as the employee, a very viable and exciting career path. Team goals rather than individual goals have proven to be great motivators, and by raising the average pay rate along with the standard productivity benchmarks has resulted in happier employees who stay with the company. What a striking difference from what I hear over and over again – that recruiting young talent is so difficult.

He shared some stories with me about making lifelong industry friends – who are actually really friends now – and other anecdotes about past work experiences, which I appreciated. We agreed this is not a “normal” business. It’s unpredictable. Somehow, we all seem to thrive on this, but I’m sure even the adrenaline junkies among us would still value more stability.

We need to make it known that our products are not just better, but best. We value high-quality materials, and good fit.

In discussing his small brand Seeds 2 Seams, which boasts on the label, “Made in Small Town, USA,” Steve spoke about the importance of the consumer experience:

“The first time, they buy for the graphic,” he said. “The second time, it’s because of the shirt. The fabric, the cut. The guy doesn’t know that the armhole is cut correctly, he just knows it feels good.”

The America Knits motto is, “Together, we are building a new story.”

On that note, I believe our story should not be a story of our resilience.

Our story will not be passive, but rather one of action.

We are the Resistance.

Apparel Mentor

Fri, 01 Nov 2024 11:26:06 GMT

We’ve partnered with The Apparel Mentor to offer our clients a discounted rate on their Monthly Guided Membership – normally $249 a month, now 20% off with Xochil’s special code (XOCHIL20)!

Having an understanding of the product development process before meeting with your pattern maker is crucial for effective communication and collaboration. This knowledge allows you to articulate your design vision clearly, understand the technical aspects of pattern making, and make informed decisions throughout the process. It also helps you manage expectations and timelines, ensuring a smooth and successful outcome for your project.

TCPM clients who have completed the program have highlighted how it helped them to become better communicators with us, as well as their suppliers and manufacturers, as they became more knowledgeable about industry vocabulary, expectations, and more. We recommend our incoming clients who are new to the industry to enroll in The Apparel Mentor program because it helps to significantly streamline and enhance their product development experience by providing expert guidance and support at every stage.

Buy Now

BENEFITS OF COMPLETING THE APPAREL MENTOR PROGRAM

Foundational Knowledge

Comprehensive Education: Gain a better understanding of the entire apparel production process, from design and pattern making to sourcing materials and manufacturing.
Industry Insights: Learn about industry best practices, quality control standards, and cost-effective strategies.

Sourcing and Manufacturing

Vendor Connections: Access a network of manufacturers and suppliers, saving you time and effort in finding reliable partners.
Production Optimization: Receive expert advice on optimizing your production timeline, minimizing costs, and ensuring timely delivery.

Problem Solving and Decision Making

Expert Guidance: Receive personalized advice and solutions to common challenges faced by apparel brands.
Strategic Decision Making: Make informed decisions about production techniques, materials, and sourcing strategies.

Continuous Improvement

Stay Updated: Stay abreast of the latest industry trends, technologies, and sustainable practices.
Refine Your Process: Continuously refine your production process based on feedback and evolving market demands.

By leveraging the expertise and resources provided by The Apparel Mentor, you can significantly improve your production efficiency, reduce costs, and enhance the overall quality of your apparel products.

Learn more about TCPM’s process and what to know before your first design meeting. Remember, the more prepared you are, the smoother your collaboration with The Chicago Pattern Maker will be!

Taking classes with The Apparel Mentor was a great experience! The class time worked great with my work schedule. It was engaging and well-structured, making the lessons more manageable which would otherwise seem overwhelming. What I really appreciated was the open environment where I felt comfortable asking questions—whether they were on the topic at hand or related to something else entirely. It was great to know that I wasn’t alone in my thoughts at times; hearing from others in the class, who had similar questions or perspectives, added so much value. Some of the things they asked were things I hadn't even thought about, and it helped broaden my understanding of the industry.

One of the most beneficial aspects was how well the course prepared me for working directly with The Chicago Pattern Maker. I felt more confident and knowledgeable when discussing technical aspects of pattern making and garment construction, which made the collaboration smoother and more productive. Overall, I left each session feeling more confident and inspired in my own journey within the apparel industry and it helped me take some of the next big steps with my brand. Highly recommend!

-Bojan Bokur, Kovert Modern

I have been in medical device sales my entire career. Early on, I recognized a need for a specialty garment that could drastically improve the lives of the patients I worked with, specifically their quality of life. The desire I had to create this garment grew each day and after every interaction I had with a patient I knew this product would help; but, where do I begin? I didn't have any experience with clothing design, manufacturing or distribution.

Years passed, and as though by divine appointment, I came across Mindy's book, Get It Made, and the program she created, The Apparel Mentor. I quickly preordered the book and joined the program. After six years, I finally took my first step in getting my idea made! The book and program helped me navigate the intricacies of the apparel industry and provided me with the tools and resources needed to push through the many obstacles a new brand encounter. Soon after joining the Apparel Mentor program, I was connected with The Chicago Pattern Maker, Xochil Herrera Scheer.

Xochil and I have been working together for nearly two years. She and her team have been incredibly helpful and a true resource of in-depth knowledge and expertise. They helped me source, design (and redesign), and construct my tech-pack flawlessly. I am forever grateful for the hard work and dedication she and her team put into making my dream a reality.

-Courtney Capra, Wesley Ward

And lastly this, the third column of representative placeholder content.

Why do we trust The Apparel Mentor?

Xochil has known Mindy Martell for many years, has visited her factory, Clothier Design Source, in Minnesota, and considers her a close industry friend. The two have collaborated together on several projects, spoken on panels together, and are both serving on the Board of Directors for the SEAMS Association. Xochil has endorsed Mindy's book, “Get It Made,” and utilizes it with her clients as well as her students at Columbia College.

Numerous TCPM clients have completed The Apparel Mentor program and have had nothing but positive experiences, which is another reason Xochil is proud to partner with Mindy.

“GET IT MADE” by The Apparel Mentor’s Mindy Martell

“As a patternmaker and product developer who has worked with many startups over the years, I have been so impressed with Mindy’s program and how prepared her students are for the realities of the industry. Everything from the order in which tasks need to be accomplished to the importance of identifying and always coming back to the target consumer, how to communicate effectively with vendors, factories and service providers, and setting the expectations for the prototyping process. Mindy is a trusted guide who presents information in an approachable way, yet doesn’t sugarcoat the fact that starting a business in fashion isn’t easy. She helps to navigate through the nuances and noise so entrepreneurs who follow the program have a big advantage over their competition.”

—XOCHIL HERRERA SCHEER, Apparel Engineer; Product Development Expert; Owner, The Chicago Pattern Maker

You can buy the book HERE.

EVENT: Join Us at the Milwaukee Pop Up Garment District!

Thu, 12 Sep 2024 17:51:14 GMT

I'm participating in Milwaukee's Pop Up Garment District!

Presented by The Sourcing District, this event is perfect for students, educators, entrepreneurs, fabric retailers and more. The trade show will offer an array of fabrics, labels, tags, garment construction necessities, and all kinds of other garment and textile-industry related resources. I love getting to meet colleages, clients, and industry connections in person, so this is a perfect opportunity to stop by and say hello!

On Thursday at 5pm I'll be giving my talk, "Working With Your Pattern Maker" where I'll share pointers on how to have a successful partnership with your pattern maker, explain the ins-and-outs of product development, and the pattern making process. Find out what you should look for when hiring someone for your project and best practices while working with them.

On Friday at 11am I'll have a Q&A where I'll offer insights and advice on the product development proces and what your pattern maker really wants you to know. Gain valuable knowledge which will enhance and streamline your design process.

I'm looking forward to this event and can't wait to see you there!

Click HERE

and HERE for more info

RECAP: Techtextil North America 2024

Thu, 29 Aug 2024 13:33:03 GMT

I spent the week of August 19^th in Raleigh, NC for Techtextil North America 2024.

I was honored to continue my relationship working alongside amazing industry colleagues and Messe Frankfurt to bring forth important conversations and innovations in textiles and sewn products and had the opportunity to moderate four fantastic Symposium Panel sessions.

I also was asked to present this year's Innovation Awards – what an honor!

After arriving in Raleigh, I worked on wrapping up my prep for the symposiums I was going to be a part of - moderating is harder than it looks. It takes hours of time to research the topics and panelists, gather supporting information, and put together a presentation. It often involves meeting with the panelists in advance to make sure I'm highlighting the right things, allowing each person and company to shine; and crafting my questions to stimulate discussion, rather than simply a basic Q&A.

All that work paid off and each of the four symposiums went great.

On Tuesday the 20^th, we kicked off the show with “Smart Threads and Healing Fibers: Navigating the Intersection of Wearable Technology, Medical Textiles, and Legal Compliance.” I had the pleasure of speaking with Jordan Schindler, Jeffrey Margulies, and Samantha Shintay to discuss the future of healthcare with wearable technology and medical textiles. It was a fantastic conversation and I learned so much new information.

Wednesday was the busiest day of the week. I moderated two talks, beginning with “Real World Circularity: Stitching a Sustainable Future in the Textile Industry” with Shane O'Toole, Bob Carswell, and Sean (Hsun-Cheng) Su. I loved learning about how each company is collaborating across the supply chain to work towards more circular, sustainable materials, as well as acknowledging the challenges faced with various feed stocks. We even discussed the issue of "green washing", and while it can be real, often discourages brands from even putting forth the effort. We agree - this is a Progress over Perfection initiative and all forward movement in this space is a positive to our industry, and to the world.

Later in the day, I moderated “Revolutionizing Apparel Production: Unleashing the Power of Digitalization, 3D Development, and AI Innovation.” It was an insightful discussion on bridging the gaps between technology from design and development through production with Frank Henderson, Ben Mead, and Graham Sullivan.

Rather than using digital tools and data in silos, we need to work up and downstream in the supply chain in order to design for manufacturability, and utilize digital twins in apparel and soft goods manufacturing, like virtually every other industry uses. This benefits both the retailer (fewer returns, reduces excess inventory), and the manufacturer (better allocation of human, robot, and equipment resources for increased productivity). Shared data learning and training skilled workers in all areas will help us to achieve these goals.

On Wednesday evening, I attended the inaugural Alphabet Soup Shindig at Raleigh’s Whiskey Kitchen, and was thrilled to see how great of a turnout there was. This networking event was open to all members of the textile industry, and was an incredible opportunity for people to meet, collaborate, and learn more about all areas of the field.

Thursday was the last day of Techtextil North America, and I had one last conversation to moderate. “Empowering Women at Work: Bridging the PPE and Workwear Equity Gap through Fit and Digital Innovation” was a great discussion; I learned an immense amount from an amazing panel of women. Melissa Dixon, Cassandra Kwon, and Kelly Franko all are passionate about gender equity and workplace safety for women. Kelly is the Founder and President of a women’s safety apparel company, and Melissa Dixon is the Director of Product Management at National Safety Apparel. We spoke about the challenges women face in accessing properly fitted protective gear and workwear, and how digitalization is paving the way for innovative solutions and a more secure work environment for all.

Later in the day, I had the pleasure of introducing the Techtextil North America tech talk: Unlocking "Made in America" - with Julie Rader at Walmart + Beth Esponnette at unspun™ - and was thrilled to have a twinning moment with Julie wearing our Walmart + American Giant tshirts, which are Made in America.

I learned a lot about unspun's innovative technology, weaving a garment directly from yarns rather than cutting it from a cloth, and about their partnership with Walmart, which is part of their investment in American-made products, and their shared interest in sustainability and localized sourcing.

I’m excited to see more of this support for US manufacturing from Walmart and hope to see a lot more like this from other retailers.

Overall, it was a fantastic week and I’m so glad I was able to be a part of the many thought-provoking conversations that were had throughout the event. It’s always such a pleasure to see both new and familiar faces at these shows, and the turnout at TechTextil North America 2024 was no exception.

Now, time to prep for the SEAMS 2024 Conference in Mobile and the Advance Textile Expo in Anaheim, both coming up in the next few weeks!

You can read more about TTNA24 HERE

HERE,

and HERE

Can’t Get Enough of that Alphabet Soup - August 2024 "X-FILES"

Thu, 29 Aug 2024 10:20:59 GMT

The term “Alphabet Soup” being used to describe the coalition of textile industry associations is appropriate on many levels. I had to Google the origin of the linguistic term, knowing it wasn’t simply the genius of one of America’s favorite soup brands. I proceeded down the rabbit hole of the internet, learning a lot more about the origin of the popular soup, which was created much further back than I’d ever imagined (dating back to at least 1877, in Paris). Alphabet soup is the metaphor that describes an abundance of acronyms or abbreviations, and the term dates back to FDR’s “alphabet agencies” created during the New Deal. So now that this brief history lesson is out of the way, let’s talk about textiles.

There are an abundance of textiles-related associations and groups which serve their respective interests, but because each serves as metaphorical branches from the same tree, there is some overlap and shared memberships among them. We all – even in our different ways – have a lot of shared goals and interests. It makes complete sense that we band together and collaborate. I understand why historically speaking, that may not have been done, and there’s something to say about “staying in your lane,”; a lot has changed especially in the last five years. There have been several instances of collaboration to speak of, but to see 11 associations represented in the same space, for the first time ever, was pretty darn incredible.

After wrapping up the second busy day of Techtextil North America in Raleigh, NC, the industry assembled at Whiskey Kitchen for the inaugural “Alphabet Soup Shindig” to meet and greet, swap stories and share laughs, chat about the many challenges and opportunities we each face. There were faces seasoned and fresh alike, overflowing into the outdoor patio, and just tons of positive energy reverberating throughout the entire space (and no, it wasn’t just the whiskey talking).

Lynsey Jones (Executive Director, AAPN) shared, “The Alphabet Soup Shindig was a first of its kind – where else could you go and see 11 textile associations under 1 roof successfully host 250+ industry executives? It was amazing to see so many people off their phones and engaged in networking! I cannot wait to do more collaborative events like this in the future.

I view the Textile and Apparel Industry as one large, interconnected family, with all its challenges and opportunities. As a new Executive Director for a historic Association, this meeting was invaluable for gaining insights into the goals and efforts of my industry “brothers and sisters” and exploring how we can collaborate to support our members, the industry, and emerging talent. We are looking into areas like a collaborative calendar and additional co-hosted events, just to name a few. The Alphabet Soup Shindig was just the start!”

Mark Hatton (Managing Director – Threads Americas, American & Efird; Chairman, SPESA) spoke highly of the event – “It was incredibly exciting to be a part of this novel multi-association collaboration, which brought together a diverse swath of the textile and soft goods industry, who might not always tend to arrive at the same networking event. From old friends to new connections, it was a wonderful opportunity to engage with so many people. As our industry works more closely to support each other’s mutual success, I expect that collaborative events such as the Alphabet Shindig will be a key part of the industry’s future. It is indicative of the need to engage all stakeholders in our supply chain, and I think a tremendous first step forward.”

In this world, we tend to specialize, which is important in building your expertise, but we can expand our horizons and our reach even more when we stretch ourselves a bit and expand our circles a little wider. In the creative arts world, it’s common and encouraged to look for inspiration and even practice your craft outside of your chosen discipline. For example, if you’re a painter, you’re only going to get really good at it by painting a lot, but you might get *even better* if you mix it up sometimes and try ceramics or mosaic work. Getting outside of our respective boxes can yield amazing results.

“The amazing collaboration effort to pull together the Alphabet Soup Shindig is a testament to the extended family that is the domestic textile industry. Although each of the organizations that helped plan this event may cater to different types of industry members, at the end of the day it takes all of us from every textile sector to keep this industry alive and thriving in the US. I hope this was just the first of many Alphabet Soup Shindigs to come!”
– Tanya Wade (PPE/Textile Resource Lab Manager, Manufacturing Solutions Center)

“The recent Alphabet Soup Shindig during the TTNA show in Raleigh was a huge success – it brought together people from the entire supply chain and was a much needed collaboration effort of many great associations. To all be together to share ideas for the greater good of our industry was inspiring and energizing. It was a sold out event and, no doubt, could easily double in size in future years. I truly hope we continue down this path as it will only lead to more relationships to further advance our efforts!”
– Amy Bircher Bruyn (CEO and Founder, MMI Textiles, Inc.)

“The energy and buzz at the event was great! This was my first time attending TTNA and the Alphabet Soup Shindig. I thought the event was really well done and provided a great opportunity to meet new people and network.”
– Melissa Dixon (Director of Product, National Safety Apparel)

Personally, I enjoyed meeting a lot of new-to-me faces, and even connecting some new dots – those moments where you find commonalities and mutual connections you didn’t even realize. The networking here was hard to beat. It’s a moment, you might ask yourself:

“Why hasn’t this been done before?” The question was raised on more than one occasion at last week’s Association meeting and the subsequent Shindig.

The industry ecosystem we operate within is incredibly diverse and intricate. We witnessed this last Wednesday night, as brands, retailers, designers, manufacturers, suppliers, chemists, engineers, academics, consultants, and association partners gathered in Raleigh for the Shindig. Connecting these various industry links is critical. And we saw that cohesion start to take shape last week. Talk about an awesome thing to experience firsthand!

We know that working in silos isn’t good for anyone, or any business. “The more we work together, the better off we’ll be. So, here’s to continued efforts in collaboration (and the next whiskey bar!).”
– Maggie McDonald (Vice President, SPESA)

The industry has deep historical roots, much like the Alphabet Soup moniker coined in FDR’s day. Setting aside politics, we know that in the short term, the New Deal programs helped improve the lives of people suffering from the events of the Depression. In the long run, New Deal programs that still exist today play a key role in the economic and social affairs of the nation. I optimistically believe that, in a similar way, the Alphabet Soup Collective can serve a similar purpose – helping to create, nurture and strengthen connections and collaborative opportunities between associations and their members, so that we may all benefit together. It may start with a Shindig, but it has the legs to be much bigger than a social event.

“As the World faces yet another round of volatile, unpredictable challenges, from supply chains, workforce challenges and inflation to conflicts abroad, our industry must ask: What can we all do together, as we face these challenges? The first Shindig will foster Collaboration, Corporation and Partnering, up and down the Textile Industry vertical supply chain.” – Frank Henderson (President, Henderson Sewing Machine Co.)

And with that note, cheers to our very bright future!

See original post HERE.

PRESS: Xochil in SPESA's 'Behind The Seams' - LA Manufacturing Technology + Tukatech Interview with Ram Sareen

Sat, 04 May 2024 10:42:42 GMT

Exciting news! My April SEAMS X-Files article has been featured in SPESA's 'Behind the Seams' newsletter. In April 2024, I traveled LA to attend the SPESA Advancements in Manufacturing Technology conference. While there, I had the opportunity to tour the Tukatech Innovation Center, led by Ram Sareen, CEO and Founder of Tukatech. Later, I caught up with Mr. Sareen to learn more about the TUKAcenters specifically and to gain insight into Ram’s vision for the future of the industry.

Read the full article HERE.

SEAMS Gatherings: More Than a Feeling - June 2024 "X-FILES"

Fri, 28 Jun 2024 14:42:08 GMT

Nearly two months have already passed since SEAMS’ Spring Conference, and I’ve been so busy I’ve hardly had a chance to fully reflect. However, I was glad to catch up with colleagues and meet a few new faces. In the weeks following, I had some great follow-up calls and virtual meets.

Now five years into my SEAMS journey, I’ve loved getting to know longtime members at events and tapping into their expertise and listening to their stories. I really love the introductions session – getting to hear what’s new with those I know, and making notes for who I need to meet this time around. The influx of new faces and growing diversity of attendees gets me excited. In the last year, the organization has gained several new members and many first-time attendees. I spoke with a few of them to better understand their motivations and goals and what brought them to SEAMS.

The conference kicked off strongly with keynote speaker Cindy DiPietrantonio, who shared her story working with Boathouse Sports, and how she revitalized a legacy brand, maintaining high standards for quality and design, and remained steadfast in a commitment to producing in their own factory based in Philadelphia. She spoke about introducing premium sweatshirts and jackets in an era where we compete against fast fashion, pushing hard against the narrative that Americans only want cheap clothes. Everyone was inspired by the stories she proudly shared, including those of Tom Brady and Jason Kelce, and their appreciation for the brand.

Brent Mahaffey (Pleneri) was impressed with her tenacity and grit:
“Her stories and passion for the industry were not only presented in an entertaining way but also incredibly motivating. Cindy’s insights demonstrated that with hard work and a focus in the right areas, the apparel manufacturing industry can not only survive, but thrive. Her enthusiasm and dedication to the industry left a lasting impression and inspired us to continue striving for excellence in our own business.”

I loved hearing about how Cindy overcame hardships in business, and I found myself very motivated by her STEPS acronym, along with others around me who were taking copious notes.

The landscape we are dealing with as a domestic supply chain is challenging to say the least, and I think this was the motivational story we all needed to hear. It wasn’t all rosy, there were challenges to overcome, and the power of a good network came up.

Not surprisingly, that’s precisely what members are seeking out with SEAMS. I asked what motivated some of these newer members to attend and join the organization.

“SEAMS provides us with opportunities to meet and collaborate with a broad range of potential partners and to stay in touch with what is going on in our markets and with our customers and suppliers. We are proud of the recognition and relationships that we have built to date as a Chicago-based cut and sew manufacturer, [and are] always seeking to build new relationships [to] achieve those objectives all over the U.S.” - William Slewa (Top Notch Sewing Solutions)

“Joining SEAMS allows us to quickly gain vital connections, ensuring we know exactly who to contact when we need specific resources or assistance. Additionally, SEAMS provides a platform for us to introduce our business to others in the industry, helping us [to] establish our presence and grow our reputation.” - Brent Mahaffey (Pleneri)

One of the benefits I often call upon when asked about SEAMS is the industry relationships that are formed during these conferences. It makes a huge impact on what you gain to spend a few days together as a group and have candid conversations. From every level of business and industry experience, the organization and members are extremely welcoming and willing
to help each other. This is especially evident from the perspective of our new entrepreneur members:

“I'm just beginning [as] an apparel brand and there is so much that I don't know. Every connection that I've talked to has helped me or steered me in the direction of help. Joining a group with a shared vision is powerful.” - Douglas Lorenz (PalmTee)

“Truth be told, I have found value in every connection so far through SEAMS. Not once has anyone told me I should be doing this or that. What has been most beneficial is getting different perspectives from everyone in their niche of the industry. I came into this world completely ignorant, and every bit of information has helped.” - Hank Schofield (Hank’s Hard Goods)

Hank is a second-time attendee, and this time around took the opportunity to showcase his products, and his progress, at the table displays. He shared his concerns about industry issues past and present, and how that has impacted him as an entrepreneur. “This was a driving factor for me going in on HHG, making high-quality stuff in the United States and responsibly.”

Like myself, Schofield stumbled upon SEAMS organically, first introduced through a trade show he attended. “At the time I was only looking for thread manufactured in the United States, when I ran into Champion Thread Company at a trade show. They recommended I check SEAMS out. It was a no brainer. I might as well have been stumbling around in the dark [before], and now I have quick access to just about anyone or anything I could think of.”

He continued by sharing that the highlight of his experience this Spring was “probably the positive response we received from so many people [whom] we engaged with to tell our story. It was very encouraging.”

Slewa added: “We have met with many like-minded professionals in the industry who recognize the strategic value, economic value and critical importance of U.S.-based suppliers like Top Notch that are able to streamline the process of designing and producing cut and sew products that may not lend themselves to offshore sourcing and finishing. We've been able to share our story, show our capabilities and demonstrate our value to customers of all sizes.” He feels encouraged by the networking and conversations held with other attendees.

I think Brent Mahaffey nailed it when describing his experience:
“My biggest takeaway from this May’s conference was witnessing how close-knit and supportive the industry is. Everyone is running their own businesses, [yet] it’s clear that they are genuinely invested in the success and growth of the industry as a whole. This collective support among SEAMS members was immensely refreshing and encouraging. It reassured me that we are part of a community that values collaboration and mutual success.”

Douglas Lorenz was impressed with “how passionate people are about the work they do, and how much they were willing to help me out.”

Building up and growing a robust domestic supply chain and network is no doubt important to each of us. From both brand and manufacturing sides, I enjoyed learning what makes this vital to each company.

For Douglas this was a realization when outfitting himself for a golf outing: “I was going through my shirts and it just doesn't sit right with me that you can't find one made in the U.S.”

Schofield is equally passionate, stating: “This is a hill I’ll die on. I could probably write a book about this. Healthy industries across the board are absolutely critical for families, communities and ultimately national security. I’m trying to do my part with HHG and staying 100% domestic.”

Slewa shared pride in how Top Notch is “part of the solution for organizations in our industry from the largest to some of the smaller, emerging companies; from a few pieces to long runs.”

Mahaffey cited several reasons, from ensuring “higher quality control standards and faster response times,” and how Pleneri “supports local economies and creates jobs within our communities. By investing in a U.S. supply chain, Pleneri aims to create a more sustainable, EMPOWERING THE MADE IN AMERICA MOVEMENT resilient, and ethically responsible business.” He continued, “The most impactful aspect of the SEAMS organization has been the opportunity to build a strong network and the openness of its members to provide advice and support. The willingness of established industry professionals to share their insights and experiences has been invaluable to us. SEAMS has created an environment where collaboration and mutual growth are prioritized, and the entire industry benefits from that.”

I enjoyed this sentiment from Schofield: “More than any purchase order or business card that has come as a result from SEAMS, it’s just encouraging and refreshing to be around likeminded folks who are trying to survive in the same realm you are. I’ll always be grateful for that.”

With that, I encourage you to invite a colleague to join us this September in Mobile, AL, for the opportunity to experience this feeling first hand. The schedule will be announced soon, and I’m really excited about our speaker lineup, the handshakes and hugs, the camaraderie and passion in the atmosphere.

Thank you to all who contributed!
Douglas Lorenz / PalmTee / palmtee.com
Hank Schofield / Hank’s Hard Goods / hankshardgoods.com
William Slewa / Top Notch Sewing Solutions / topnotchsewingsolutions.com
Brent Mahaffey / Pleneri / pleneri.com

EVENT: Advanced Textiles Expo 2024

Tue, 18 Jun 2024 16:47:03 GMT

I’m excited to share that on Wednesday, September 25^th I’ll be hosting my own education session at the 2024 Advanced Textile Expo in Anaheim, California, as a part of the Next Generation Day. Join me at 10:30 AM while I discuss “Connecting the Dots: The Power of Digital and Personal Connections to Build Your Business.”

“Product development happens in the background in the textiles and apparel industry, making it a bit mysterious and even intimidating for someone looking to start their own brand. Xochil Herrera Scheer, president and founder of The Chicago Pattern Maker, built her successful business from the ground up, creating opportunities for growth by utilizing multiple social media platforms along with in-person networking to reach her audience and educate on how the technical side of the business really works.

By sharing her day-to-day experiences, highlighting the "behind-the-seams" work that actually goes into producing a garment, and providing her insights on current news and industry topics online and at events, Xochil has leveraged her network and marketing efforts to connect with people in a way that is authentic and genuine, and translate that into real business. Xochil has helped small businesses to realize the benefits of investing in their development, as well as providing core services to larger organizations in a way that allows them to be as nimble as smaller ones.

Learn strategies that can help you craft your online presence and expand your network both virtually and IRL (in real life).”

See more HERE.

EVENT: Techtextil North America 2024

Fri, 14 Jun 2024 16:38:33 GMT

From August 20^th to August 22^nd, I’ll be attending the 2024 TechTextil North America tradeshow in Raleigh, North Carolina to moderate four symposiums. I’m excited to sit down and talk to leaders in the industry to hear about new technology, discuss how the textile industry can continue working towards a more sustainable future, and how we can bridge the gap of women’s inequality in the industry.

Tuesday, August 20^th 9:30 AM: Smart Threads & Healing Fibers: Navigating the Intersection of Wearable Technology, Medical Textiles, and Legal Compliance

I’ll be sitting down with Clothing 2.0 and Nufabrx Founder Jordan Schindler, legal expert Jeffrey Marguiles and Hohenstein’s Sam Shintay to discuss the future of healthcare and learn about wearable technology and medical textiles. This symposium will delve into the intricacies of yarns woven with integrated medicine, exploring their transformative impact on patient care, compliance, and well-being. Join us for a comprehensive discussion on the legal and testing regulations that surround this groundbreaking frontier. Discover the challenges and opportunities in bringing these innovative technologies to market and the future possibilities where textiles become not only a second skin but a healing touch, revolutionizing healthcare and wearable technology industries alike.

Wednesday, August 21^st 8:00 AM: Real World Circularity: Stitching a Sustainable Future in the Textile Industry

Industry leaders, innovators, and practitioners in sustainability Sean Su of Circ, Shane O’Toole of Origin Materials, and Bob Carswell of Material Return will explore groundbreaking approaches to foster circularity in textiles. We’ll learn about issues including waste collection and sorting of fibers, which are essential steps towards minimizing our environmental impact, strategies for achieving a net-zero carbon footprint, how to address the plastics problem head-on, and navigate the complex landscape of chemical and mechanical recycling methods. This conversation will delve into the challenges and triumphs of implementing sustainable practices, which work toward achieving true circularity.

2:30 PM: Revolutionizing Apparel Production: Unleashing the Power of Digitalization, 3D Development, and AI Innovation

We’re stepping into the future of apparel production with the transformative impact of digitalization on the entire production process. I’ll chat with Frank Henderson of Henderson Sewing Machine Co., Ben Mead of Hohenstein, and Graham Sullivan of Seddi to explore the realm of 3D development and learn how digital twins are reshaping the landscape of manufacturing. We’ll delve into the world of on-demand manufacturing and the role that technology plays into optimizing efficiency and decision-making, and the intricacies of implementing these cutting-edge technologies from concept to creation, revolutionizing the way we design, produce, and consume fashion. Get ready to embrace a new era in apparel production where innovation meets sustainability, and efficiency meets creativity.

Thursday, August 22^nd 9:45 AM: Empowering Women at Work: Bridging the PPE and Workwear Equity Gap Through Fit and Digital Innovation

I have the pleasure of interviewing Amy Rosa of The Safety Rack, Melissa Dixon of National Safety Apparel, and Cassandra Kwon of North Carolina State University to explore the critical intersection of gender equity and workplace safety. This thought-provoking discussion on the challenges women face in accessing properly fitted protective gear and workwear will help identify and investigate the gaps in design and manufacturing, discover how digitalization is paving the way for innovative solutions, and fostering a more inclusive and secure work environment for all. We’ll examine actionable strategies for a future where every woman's safety and comfort are prioritized, where we can better retain an important sector of our workforce.

It's always a pleasure to attend TechTextil, and I can’t wait for this opportunity to chat with so many knowledgeable industry members. See you there!

Learn more HERE.

RECAP: SPESA Advancements in Manufacturing & Technology

Thu, 13 Jun 2024 17:25:53 GMT

April 2024

I had the incredible opportunity to attend the 2024 SPESA Advancements in Manufacturing and Technologies Conference which took place April 11^th, 2024 in Los Angeles. This was my second SPESA conference, and it exceeded my expectations for education and networking with the textile and sewn products industry. I found there to be many exciting aspects of the Los Angeles fashion industry which were inspiring to see in person for the first time in my career, and compare with Chicago, New York, and other areas of the country I have visited. The speakers and topics were very relevant and forward thinking, and meeting people in various areas of the industry was extremely valuable.

The conference opened with introductions from SPESA’s President, Michael McDonald, and Chairman Mark Hatton (American & Efird), and immediately went into the first panel which was a conversation with the Garment Worker Center in LA. Panelists represented the organization, as well as a factory owner, and a member of the City Council. They discussed the task force which was created in order to support keeping the garment district in tact, supporting workers and factories to transform “sweatshops” of the past into viable, sustainable and ethically run businesses, attract and retain skilled labor, workforce development and advocacy, and support factories as they upgraded facilities and technologies in order to comply with new regulations for safety, licensing, and to make the facilities more modern and efficient.

In pretty much every industry conference or conversation, workforce, or lack thereof, always comes up. Interestingly, in LA there doesn’t seem to be a lack of a willing and able workforce, however, businesses do need help in order to provide better environments, afford benefits and pay competitive salaries. Infrastructure is a consideration in making sure those workers can safely get to and from work. LA boasts 30,000 garment workers who produce approximately 835 of the nation’s $2 billion cut-and-sew apparel sales (as of 2019). Even with that, LA has more workers than work available. More production opportunities are desperately wanted.

Next, the topic shifted to Industry Evolution - Automation and Advanced Manufacturing with Frank Henderson (Henderson Sewing Machine Company) and SK Gupta, Ph.D (University of Southern California School of Engineering; Director, USC Center for Advanced Manufacturing). They acknowledged that the US workforce has not been well invested in, but that those working have vast knowledge and are mostly welcoming to changes that would help make their jobs easier, faster, more efficient. Many factories that operate today have operated the same way for decades, no automation, even invoicing on paper or not utilizing email. That’s insane to think about. Henderson was quick to ask, “How many of you drive a car from 1960? But, you operate a sewing machine from 30-40 years ago? That’s dumb shit.”

Audience members got involved with some great insights. Jen Guarino (ISAIC) raised the point that the industry has been “built on the backs of women”, and sewing is still an underrated skill set. She suggested making women the “masters of the tech”, as well as stating, “If you want young people, it can’t be the bare minimum. We need to raise the bar higher.”

Guadalupe Tlatenchi (GTLA) chimed in, “In order to attract new people, [we must] make a more attractive industry.”

To the point where people may be hesitant to adopt technology, Michael McDonald summed it up well: “People matter. Robots are not taking anyone’s job. Industry can be so much better with things that exist right now. It starts with the people.”

Technology is America’s best bet when it comes to competing with foreign markets (specifically Asia), but also a way to make worker’s lives better and easier. Industry needs to work with its people, but utilize people’s skills differently. A single operator and a mechanic can do the jobs of many when paired with robotics and automation. Dr. Gupta reminds us that human programmers are needed to program machines, and there are many digital opportunities for growth. Cameras become our eyes, robots become our arms. The costs for these technologies are coming down as AI is becoming more sophisticated. The issue is getting the right tech into the right hands.

I asked, What is the resistance against implementation? Frank Henderson answered by sharing that for most factories to invest, they need more volume of production domestically. Very few brands in the US are vertically integrated, and don’t know much about manufacturing, and they don’t share the costs with their suppliers.

Volume is needed in order to sustain the investment of money, training, and resources. And the reason the US is so far behind other countries is because there is not widespread implementation of this technology - which finds us in an interesting place, a Catch-22.

Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Industry Evolution was the next topic, which is hugely broad, and a wildly popular buzzword we are now hearing everywhere. Michael McDonald opened up the talk by first asking the audience, how they are utilizing AI in their companies? Many acknowledged the use of ChatGPT as a starting point. ISAIC is using AI for QC inspections, as well as transcribing video or audio into written format in multiple languages. Aptean is integrating Amazon’s Alexa to share through its Shop Floor tablets what is happening on the production floor, when maintenance is needed, or when to move labor or job functions around to improve efficiency.

Panelist Ketty Pillet (LECTRA) talked about how AI relies on good data, their Retviews program allows for brands to utilize sales data from across competitors to see what styles, colors, sizes, etc are selling with competitors so that they can make adjustments to their own inventories, or introduce short runs on new designs.

Kyle Stephens (KolAi Denim) took his experience at Kontoor Brands which manufactures Wrangler and Lee brands, along with an interest in technology to train machines to create laser patterns for denim whiskering. What once took a person a painstaking 8 hours to complete, now takes about 20 seconds, and a human is still involved to clean up and finalize the design file.

Eric Lee (Alvanon) discussed the adoption of 3D prototypes or simulations from pattern files, and how far digital twin body forms and scans have come in the last 3-5 years alone. He says this not only helps on the design and development side by speeding up the process and reducing number of sample iterations, but also on the retail side, where consumers can conduct more accurate virtual try-on’s, thus reducing the amount of e-commerce returns due to needing to purchase multiple sizes to try on, or not finding a fit at all.

By the end of the discussion which spanned intellectual property concerns, to evaluating the integrity and accuracy of AI’s sources. It’s important to remember that the output is only as good as the input. Ketty Pillet suggested that those who were a little apprehensive to try it out, to try to “think of AI as a smart child,” it would still need to be taught by a good teacher (programmer). Michael McDonald suggested those interested in trying out the tech should contact local universities to find talent, figure out ways to tackle problems with a fresh perspective.

Supply Chain Efficiency was up next - with representatives from ETON Systems and Aptean Apparel. The talk focused on how to create better supply chains that are more connected and sustainable for the long-term. Although very tech focused, a lot of the consideration was put on the worker wellbeing, tying back into earlier topics. It isn’t always factory management against the worker, but about building trust, transparency in the systems, and helping operators train and upskill in order to make more money. Justin Hershoran shared how operators can “see their numbers go up or down,” which builds “trust and motivation.”

The Sustainability in Garment Manufacturing panel discussed navigating overproduction issues and waste management, through various means. Morgan Technica, which makes cutting systems, focuses on reducing waste material, and energy consumption.

A topic that continues to be widely discussed in the industry is that of eco-friendly products and what initiatives companies can implement to become more environmentally conscious. Rewilder works with brands to divert scrap material and create new products from what would otherwise be waste. This was a really interesting company to learn about, given many of our Columbia students interest in upcycling and sustainability practices. Many smaller scale projects have focused on these objectives, but it was really cool to see this done on a larger scale and with bigger brands including Michael Stars, Hollywood Bowl, and others.

QST is one of the largest component suppliers in the garment industry, offering pocketing, lining, fusible, elastic, and other components that make up the “guts” or inside of the garment. Within these product categories, they’ve created eco-friendly items that are Oeko-Tex certified, use Repreve or Better Cotton Initiative fibers, or utilize “Low-Water” finishes to appeal to brands looking to market their products as eco-friendly.

The problem is that while many brands (and consumers) are demanding these sustainable materials, they are not willing to invest in the higher prices that come with it. Similarly, the Made-In-America initiative has been frequently discussed for many years. With this label means higher prices on products, which can be attributed to fair wages, higher-cost materials, and more expensive overhead. Time and again though, consumers state when surveyed that they will pay more for Made-In-America products, but statistics show the reality is that most don’t actually purchase the more expensive option.

Finally, Because Capital is a partner of ISAIC, and seeks to find intersections between sustainability and profitability. Christian Birky points out that this is “not a technology problem, it’s a business model problem.” The most profitable brands in the US don’t have any manufacturing footprint in the US, which further contributes to why American sewn products factories are so far behind the rest of the world when it comes to manufacturing technology. They desperately need financing solutions in order for them to implement and compete with the rest of the world.

The next talk is a case study presentation of the partnership between Variant 3D and ISAIC in Detroit. This was really cool to hear about because I was first introduced to Variant as a speaker at the 2022 SPESA Conference. In this talk, they described how they worked on a pilot program testing Variant’s 3D modeling software, and test marketing it with the auto industry. As a non-profit organization, ISAIC is able to take out a lot of the risk associated with this type of development, prove that it works well, before it is later sold commercially. For their efforts, they become the training arm for a company such as Variant 3D. Additionally, ISAIC runs other training programs including a sewing operator program, with the goal of upskilling workers to sew in factories, or to open their own micro factories.

The last panel focused on the future of the industry in LA specifically, however I think that the points raised apply outside of the West Coast as well. Isle Metchek (California Fashion Association) began by discussing the role of the next generation. Design departments in colleges and universities are overrun - it’s a popular major but many other roles need to be filled to support this.

One goal for both current and incoming workers of garment manufacturing is getting operators excited to be around technology and innovative products and making sewing manufacturing a “cool” place to work. Traditionally, the job of a professional sewing operator has been seen as less than ideal. Although it is now illegal in California, piece-rate is still being widely used to pay operators. Working conditions are not always up-to-code or as safe as they should be. Those in the industry want to change this negative perception and “rewire” what it looks like to work in garment manufacturing. To achieve this, fair, living wages need to be offered, and the work environment for operators needs to be inviting.

We got to see this first hand during the tours the following day, where we visited US Standard Apparel (USSA) and the Tukatech Innovation Center. Additionally, I arranged a separate tour before the conference at Lefty Production, which offers product development, sourcing and production services. At USSA, the facility was welcoming, modern, and incredibly clean. It housed a showroom for guests, and a beautiful full kitchen space and break area for staff. It is a great example of what manufacturing can and should look like in the US. The technology integration, and the clear focus on worker well-being shows why this business model is a success. It's a relatively rare example of a vertically integrated brand which offers both retail, wholesale, and custom production options.

Tour - USSA Factory

The Tukatech Innovation center focuses on providing services on an as-needed basis for designers, brands, and small batch factories who may not have space or funds to house all these things in house, particularly for things they don’t need every day. Tukatech has just over 70 centers worldwide, each offering services which cater to its locality. In LA, visitors have access to software including 2D and 3D pattern CAD systems, supported by a lab upstairs which tests the physics of materials to be incorporated into a design, making a digital material which is comparable to the behaviors and characteristics of the real thing. A wide format printer allows for digital print design to come to life through sublimation prints, and a full size cutting machine and many industrial sewing machines makes a fully equipped sample room of a full factory accessible to a smaller brand, or allows for an existing brand to utilize services and equipment as needed, vs making a full investment in something they use occasionally. Users can “DIY” aspects on their own, or tap into the expertise of the TUKAcenter to support them. A sewing cell featuring a conveyor system shows how a micro factory can operate successfully with big volume in a small footprint.

Tour - TUKATECH Innovation Center

Something which was brought up in several talks was the topic of education and four-year degrees. The tide seems to be shifting from companies wanting their employees to have a traditional Bachelor's degree, to being more accepting of junior colleges and associate’s degrees. The main reason is that the garment industry needs people who want to make the product, not just focus on the creative and design side of the business.

While sewing operator training absolutely has a place in community colleges, I do think there is a huge opportunity for schools like Columbia to remain competitive in the industry by focusing on technology. Our Fashion Studies department has done a great job of integrating 3D design and pattern making, but we could go further with some specializations or even introducing certificate programs in those areas. I think it would be great to explore further AI-assisted design and its role in the educational and professional practice of fashion design. There are many opportunities to grow these or integrate them into existing curriculum so that students can be better prepared for this ever-evolving world.

In all, this was a great conference and I’m incredibly thankful for this opportunity to have attended on behalf of Columbia College Chicago. I learned so much and was exposed to new ideas that I have only really read about. I think with technology especially, it can be difficult to quickly implement new curriculum and educational resources as the technology is being updated as we do. However, we need to make sure it is a priority for our faculty to stay on top of it so that we can provide the best education possible for our students.

SPESA Tour - TUKATECH Innovation Center

Tukatech – At The Intersection of Innovation & Collaboration - April 2024 "X-FILES"

Thu, 25 Apr 2024 09:39:44 GMT

As seen in SEAMS.

Tukatech – at the intersection of innovation & collaboration

Earlier this month, I found myself in LA, at the intersection of sunshine and rain. I joined many other industry colleagues for the SPESA Advancements in Manufacturing Technology conference at the California Market Center, and thus had the opportunity to tour the Tukatech Innovation Center, led by Ram Sareen, CEO and Founder of SEAMS member Tukatech. Later, I caught up with Mr. Sareen to learn more about the TUKAcenters specifically and to gain insight into Ram’s vision for the future of the industry.

First of all, I should state that I have been a Tukatech customer for a number of years now with my own business, and have been really happy with the service and software options available and have had very positive interactions with many on their team.

For those unfamiliar, TUKAcenters are fashion service providers. The services and resources offered at each of the 70+ facilities worldwide vary based on the needs of the local area. They offer data services such as file conversion, grading and marker making, as well as design and development services, and sometimes even small batch production. TUKAcenters are often led by industry professionals who want to “give back” with lending their expertise to young start-ups and growing businesses. (Watch TUKAtech video.)

In LA, visitors have access to software, including 2D and 3D pattern CAD systems, supported by a lab upstairs that tests the physics of materials to be incorporated into a design, making a digital material that is comparable to the behaviors and characteristics of the real thing. A wideformat printer allows for digital print design to come to life through sublimation prints, and a fullsize cutting machine and many industrial sewing machines makes a fully equipped sample room of a full factory accessible to a smaller brand, or allows for an existing brand to utilize services and equipment as needed, vs. making a full investment in something they use occasionally. Users can “DIY” aspects on their own, or tap into the expertise of the TUKAcenter to support them. A sewing cell featuring a conveyor system shows how a microfactory can operate successfully with big volume in a small footprint.

Also available in the space are a small photo studio, a body scanner, and a sound booth (for podcasting or to take private calls), washing machines and a kitchenette. Mr. Sareen had a full breakfast offering for his guests that morning, and I learned later that by providing a kitchen space as well as meals to his staff, sparked my understanding of how he has cultivated a culture within his company of comradery, collaboration and a team that feels like family. Many corporations say their people are family, but it’s often revealed that’s not quite the case.

One of Mr. Sareen’s early hires was a part time cleaner for the office he shared with one secretary. The woman he hired also ended up revamping the very basic kitchenette and making sandwiches, then preparing breakfast, and he hired her full time after seeing that value. Today, he has a kitchen in every office, and shared, “We all sit down and eat together [for] all meals. There’s the old saying that families who eat together, stay together. And believe it or not, it has worked for 29 years.” I find this endearing, the centeredness around community, long before this idea was popularized for the Millennial workforce.

The services available at a TUKAcenter have wide appeal. The more obvious beneficiary is an apparel startup, but it’s equally or even more important for industry professionals who have had experience doing these things, but don’t have all the resources in-house, and want to simplify or speed up their development process. So many brands are not vertically integrated. In the past, many had an in-house team of pattern makers and a sample room. These days, most of the big brands are full of technical designers and sourcing teams and don’t employ a full-time sewing or pattern making team, relying instead on their factory contractors instead. Mr. Sareen recognized an opportunity by listening to his customers: “We've had so many of them come to us who were tired of running from one contractor or one service to the other. They have to first figure out the network. It's a slow process.”

“Most of the customers here are at a loss right now. They don't know where to start. They want to bring the manufacturing back home. They want to bring the development back home. But they missed out on two things. One, they shut down the entire thing and went into tech packs and technical designers. Now that they want to bring it back, they don't know where to get started. Here, they can outsource the process.”

“Even the most established brands are now looking at a reality that the quantities are going to be smaller,” he added. “The lead time is going to be less. The prices are going to be reasonable. Now they're not looking at low prices.”

Sareen said he predicts that smaller companies between $5 million-20 million in revenue will prevail in the current landscape.

The vision for the TUKAcenters is to make a difference and add value to the industry. Sareen has sought to build a company built on relationships and value, rather than be merely transactional. Providing more value than what someone has paid for builds trust and keeps customers happy to return and to share their experiences with others.

Mr. Sareen understands the importance of looking out for small businesses, and his company’s customer service and values speak volumes. He shared that “my people were taught to go look after the little one first. Because [during a service call], the little one is 100% out of business right now, totally stopped. They need help NOW. The other [corporate customer] can wait because it's not stopping them [from doing business today]. And believe itor not, the loyalty we received seeing the customers – the little ones – grow to big companies. There are at least 200 companies here in Los Angeles alone who are doing more than 5 million dollars [in revenue], and they started by renting $200 a month outside services.”

Looking to the future, Mr. Sareen “strongly believes that pattern making is a skill,” along with grading and marking, but wonders “why do we have to spend so much time on [development]? Why can’t we minimize that and spend more time creating something beautiful at a low cost?”

Reducing sampling and reducing waste, working smarter are all part of this equation.TUKAcenters have this mentality top of mind – sharing the resources to bring them locally where they are needed, and brands can utilize only what they need, when they need it. This might look transactional on the surface, but inside, you see the community and collaboration it brings together, so in fact, it fits right into the relational business model that Ram Sareen has built over nearly 30 years. Each center is catered to the localized needs of that area, yet is able to tap into the overall network.

My conversation continues more deeply, and my impressions of the TUKAtech Innovation Center in LA is a positive one. I left the West Coast feeling inspired by the local industry, which like anywhere else in the country, has its pain points. However, the people have found a way to keep the garment district alive and thriving. Collaboration is a buzzword, yes, but with reason. We need to keep the spirit of sharing, disrupting and problem solving alive if we want the industry to grow and thrive coast to coast.

PRESS: My experience at Women In Textiles Summit in one word: Amazing! (E-Textile Communications)

Fri, 08 Mar 2024 12:55:39 GMT

See original post HERE

I was so excited to return to the Advanced Textiles Association's (ATA's) Women In Textiles Summit 2024 in Phoenix, Ariz., for the unique opportunity to focus on personal and professional development in a space that encourages relationships and real talk with women across the industry. I am thrilled to have found this group for support, education and comradery, as we each navigate our respective journeys.

We kicked off the week with bang – literally – at Breakthrough! A Smash Room Experience. Ladies suited up in jumpsuits (unfortunately they weren’t pink like in Barbie, but that’s OK), and we let off some steam before the conference officially began. It was a fun way to break the ice while we broke a LOT of glass. The evening welcome reception offered a more relaxed atmosphere, with glow in the dark mini golf and a friendship bracelet station, where we were encouraged to make bracelets with words that felt empowering.

The next morning, the first day of the conference, featured an ATA favorite speaker, Dr. Melissa Furman (Career Potential LLC), as the opening keynote. I love her approach to the topic of workforce development, especially for women. She encouraged us to think about our “best day ever” to better understand what drives us and how to find that feeling more often by figuring out the common denominator. Attendees wrote out a list of her skills, determining whether those skills felt “motivating,” or things we felt “burnout” over. Setting tangible and measurable goals, asking ourselves probing questions and gaining a better understanding for ourselves, ultimately will help us to figure out how to achieve those goals. We identified our “badass name” and later went into a speed networking session to practice our elevator pitch, and learn about each other.

Next, we received a presentation from Sarah Cobb (Digital Marketing Specialist, Mermet USA) on Social Media and Blogging in the Textile Manufacturing Industry. As an avid social media user, I appreciated this topic and getting a different perspective on presenting from a brand or manufacturing perspective vs. an individual. We were encouraged to find inspiration and adapt ideas and concepts to our own audience, and she discussed how blogs in particular can be a great resource for your clients, and can be a great way to share expertise and industry trends.

Participating in a "Women in Textiles Making Great Things” panel are (L-R) Jennifer Fennell, Polo Custom Products; Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker; Clelia Parisi, Apex Mills; and moderator Kaylee Smith, Mehler Engineered Products.

It was an absolute honor to take the stage this year for the panel discussion “Women In Advanced Textiles Making Great Things.” I enjoyed having the opportunity to share my story of how I grew my business from a lone freelancer working on basically every project I could, to having a small team and being so in demand I get to choose who and what I work on, and being able to create beautiful, functional products, especially those that impact lives. I highlighted some of my more technical projects, including tactical pants (KADRI), women’s workwear and safety vest (XENA WORKWEAR), size-inclusive activewear (DEFINE BOLD), and maternity/nursing apparel (OF AN ORIGIN) – each designed by women.

The panel was moderated by Kaylee Smith (Mehler Engineered Products), and included Jennifer Fennell (Polo Custom Products) and Clelia Parisi (Apex Mills Corp). These incredible women have amazing stories of their own, and I appreciate the opportunity to be included alongside them for this inspiring conversation. The day ended with a delightful Galentine's Day dinner and trivia competition.

The second day opened with an impactful and heartfelt story of overcoming personal health challenges and adversity by the inspiring Amy Rivera (Ninjas Fighting Lymphedema Foundation). She led an exercise where we took perceived weaknesses and re-framed them into strengths or areas for development.

Next we heard from Dr. Holly Morris (Hand Surgeon, Medical Textile Expert), where she shared her experiences from the operating room and how it inspired her to delve deeper into the massive waste issue, and research potential solutions for creating a more sustainable environment through the use of specialty textiles, and advanced laundry processes for the safe reuse of gowns and other textile products. The image she shared of a woman surrounded by all of the individual disposable items used for one single surgery, was quite eye opening.

“Techstyles to Help Us Live Well” with Billie Whitehouse (Wearable X) was a super intriguing glimpse into the possibilities of design which incorporates AI powered technology, and she explained how she created a line of yoga clothes with sensors that linked with an app to guide users through workouts and lessons tailored to their specific movements. She also shared some of her projects working in collaboration with Google, Durex and others.

Breakout sessions during the conference included time split among interest areas, and level of experience, giving different opportunities to connect with others dealing with similar issues at work or in life, and learning from one another.

The final day wrapped with a presentation by Apurba Banerjee (Standard Textile), and Nicole Holroyd (Spiritus Systems) called “Mind The Gap: Women in U.S. Textile Manufacturing,” which outlined statistics and analysis for the differences between hiring and pay practices between men and women across the industry, in various roles, and audits of their respective companies to see how they stacked up against the national averages. They offered insight into how to close that gap through regular audits, setting levels within the company, and performing regular audits into improvements including continuing education and training to help employees level up.

A week of sisterhood came to a close with an evening outing to Wine Girl Scottsdale, for a relaxed vibe and continued conversation and networking before everyone headed home.

Holroyd and Jasmine Cox, executive director of the Textile Technology Center at Gaston College, did an incredible job as this year’s co-emcees.

All in all, there was a lot packed into a short week, but I know I’m not alone in that I left feeling energized and inspired. The group does a great job of keeping the connections going after the event through a LinkedIn group and there are several instances where there are mini-meetups at other industry events and tradeshows, so we can always find a friendly female face in the crowd.

I’d highly recommend this experience to any woman looking for a conference focused on leadership, professional growth, and fun feminine spirit. Thank you ATA for this amazing event!

EVENT: DuPage Countywide Institute Day - Keynote Speaker

Thu, 29 Feb 2024 11:54:31 GMT

FaCS Keynote with The Chicago Pattern Maker

On Friday March 1, high school educators will spend the day at the College of DuPage, exploring the latest tools, technology, and best practices in Career and Technical Education. Organized by content areas, breakout sessions will be led by CTE experts including, College of DuPage faculty, regional district CTE instructors, and local professionals.

I am SO honored to be the Keynote speaker for the Family and Consumer Science educators track! I'm excited to share stories from my own professional journey and how various experiences in and out of school have helped shape my career, along with ideas for how high school educators may be able to better reach and inspire their students to find their own career paths in the textiles, apparel, sewn products industry, whether they have an interest in design and development, merchandising, or manufacturing. Everyone knows about fashion designers, but not everyone knows the plethora of other roles that are not only necessary, but also very high-value, to make shit happen.

RECAP: Women in Textiles Summit - Making Great Things Panel

Mon, 12 Feb 2024 10:54:06 GMT

Moderator:

Kaylee Smith, Regional Sales Manager North America, Mehler Engineered Products
Panelists:

Jennifer Fennell, Supply Chain and Process Improvement Advisor, Polo Custom Products
Xochil Herrera Scheer, Apparel Engineer, Product Development Expert | President & Founder The Chicago Pattern Maker (XOCHIL INC)
Clelia Parisi, Senior Fabric and Market Research Analyst, Apex Mills Corp

News Release:

ATA’s 2024 Women in Textiles Summit took place February 12–14 in Phoenix, AZ. Participants kicked off with a Smash Room Experience to try out a brand-new type of therapy. A welcome reception followed where new and returning faces greeted each other for another great event. We were excited to welcome 48 first-time attendees to this year’s Summit.

Just under 100 attendees gathered the next morning for the beginning of education and networking sessions, led by vivacious emcees Jasmine Cox, Gaston College and Nichole Holroyd, Spiritus Systems. Women in Textiles Summit favorite, Dr. Melissa Furman jumped right in with some reflective questions on what success means and how to get the job done with help from your personal power name.

Women throughout the industry from suppliers to manufacturers to academia and government found each other to connect, “[It’s] inspiring to have so many women together that have the same motivations. As someone from manufacturing I never see this many women together at once. So that in itself is very impactful,” Genavieve Lombara, Haartz Corporation.

Presenters continued the day with topics such as social media and blogging and a panel, “Women in Textiles Making Great Things” featuring three women who spoke passionately about their journey and contributions to the industry. Clelia Parisi, Apex Mills; Jennifer Fennell, Polo Custom Products; and Xochil Herrera Scheer. From ideation to production, owning a small business and managing teams, these women take on innovation with energy and natural curiosity, because in the words of Parisi, “If you don’t grow, it gets boring!”

Breakout groups took a new approach with Dr. Furman returning to conduct network speed dating, an exercise to divide the group and encourage brand new connections and conversations. Additional discussion groups also included breaking up by position titles to talk trends and challenges within areas of work such as sales, marketing, engineering, administration and more. “Networking is always great. Even after several years I’m still meeting new contacts,” stated Mary Reardon, MMI Textiles. Attendees then celebrated “Galentine’s Day” with Dinner and Trivia to unwind and process the content from the day.

Day two of education began with an empowering talk and mind map exercise from Amy Rivera who spoke passionately about her journey with Lymphedema. As an author, speaker and advocate, Rivera shared her story and how we can all become empowered through challenges by unleashing your inner strength and unlearning being taught to hide. Hand surgeon and medical textiles specialist, Holly V. Morris, followed with session “The Role of Textiles in Creating a Greener Theatre” where she discussed the impact of medical textile waste ways to question practices with three words: refuse rethink and redesign.

Groups again broke up this time by where the attendee is in their textile career such as new to the industry, middle managers, and executives. This was a great chance to learn and share from others in similar on how they face challenges and earn success.

Education came to a close with two final sessions including dynamic entrepreneur, Billie Whitehouse, speaking on “Techstyles to Help us Live Well” about her innovative approaches to wellness through e-textiles. Emcee, Nichole Holroyd and speaker Apurba Bannerjee from Standard Textile concluded with a talk on the pay gap between men and women in the textile industry including data and real-life examples.

Last chance networking took place that evening at Wine Girl in Downtown Scottsdale where the women could take another chance to recap the event and continue to make connections.

“As a first-time attendee to the Women in Textiles Summit, I was blown away by the experience,” said Christina Rapa from W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc, “The networking opportunities and career-focused programing was a fantastic way to connect with other women in the textile and apparel industry. I met up with suppliers who I've only seen at trade shows or via email and found textile graduates from both Jefferson University and NC State University (my two alma-maters). I'll be back again next year and will bring my colleagues along also.” □

I enjoyed having the opportunity to share my story of how I grew my business from lone freelancer working on basically every project I could, to having a small team and being so in demand I get to choose who and what I work on. It has not been an easy road, but it has been incredibly worth it to be involved in the making of beautiful, functional products, especially those that impact lives. It is my varied experiences that have made me a well rounded designer, pattern maker, consultant, and teacher.

Moderated by Kaylee Smith, I was in the company of Jennifer Fennell, Supply Chain and Process Improvement Advisor, Polo Custom Products, and Clelia Parisi, Senior Fabric and Market Research Analyst, Apex Mills Corp. These incredible women have amazing stories of their own, and I was honored to be included alongside them for this inspiring conversation, and on Galentine's Day to boot!

Thank you ATA for inviting me to Phoenix, and for a great first day of the conference!

PRESS: Xochil joins SEAMS Association Board of Directors

Tue, 30 Jan 2024 17:22:33 GMT

SEAMS announces 2024 board of directors

SEAMS, a national association for the U.S. sewn products industry, has announced the new membership election for the board of directors 2024 calendar year.

“While the demand for ‘Made in America’ products continues to increase, so do the challenges we face. The SEAMS 2024 board of directors looks to continue its support of our members by being the biggest advocate and voice for the domestic sewn products industry,” says Britt Moore, SEAMS president. “Our driven and talented board spans all facets of the supply chain throughout the U.S. market and has had the honor of being led by Ron Roach for the past two years. His insightful leadership and forward-thinking have been invaluable during this time, and I would like to thank him for all his devotion and support. We look forward to advancing SEAMS in 2024 as we work to grow our membership and expand on several industry-focused events and hosting our two SEAMS conferences for 2024.”

Executive committee:

Britt Moore, Minnesota Knitting Mills, president
Brent Jones, Henderson Machinery, vice president
Jim Hopkins, Hamrick Mills, secretary/treasurer
Ron Roach, Contempora Fabrics, ex-officio officer

Education director, three-year term:

Alex Whitley, Contempora Fabrics

Supplier directors, three-year term:

Tanya Wade, Manufacturing Solutions Center
Ryan Smith, Printcraft Company
Stacey Bridges, Hanes Dye and Finishing
Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker

Manufacturing/contractor directors, one-year term:

Anthony Marini, Heartland Manufacturing
Marty Bailey, TSG Apparel
Mindy Martell, Clothier Design Source
Brian Alhanati, Custom Fab USA
Steven Hawkins, America Knits

Executive director

Will Duncan, Will Duncan & Associates, 2017–present

2023 Reflections - December 2023 "X-FILES"

Wed, 20 Dec 2023 17:05:36 GMT

As seen in SEAMS.

2023 Reflections

As I reflect and take stock of the year coming to a close and start to formulate my goals for the new year ahead, there is much to be thankful for, lessons learned, and opportunities for growth.

I just went through the exercise of figuring out my company “stats” in the last month - the typical running of financial reports and meeting with my accountant before the end of the year - and maybe the less typical creation of an end of the year “Wrapped” Instagram Reel. This will recap some interesting figures such as how many clients and products we worked on this year, and some funny ones, like how many times the airline lost my suitcase this year, or how many cups of coffee kept me going through the day.

Some highlights this year which I am very proud of… Over a third of my clients are repeat customers! Just about half of the products my clients launched in 2023 were Made in the USA!

I put myself in front of a lot of eyes this year through events and conferences, teaching, and social media. I’m especially proud of the floor talks series at Texprocess America this year, where I moderated and participated in 7 sessions overall. I’ve been more active on LinkedIn this year (taking my own advice; (see my column from August), and as a result of these experiences have already secured 3 speaking engagements for 2024.

At the Fall SEAMS Conference, we shared a lot of moments learning together in Raleigh, along with some drinks, dance moves, and a handful of Barbie memes which I sprinkled into my panel, “Closing The Loop - Circularity Through Collaboration”. Sustainability was a hot topic at the conference, discussed from different angles in other panels, but also industry wide. This has been trending for years, but growing interest level and real-world adoption has made these conversations a lot more practical, and less “pie in the sky” theories. Obstacles still exist, but collaboration is a key way to remove many barriers.

Technology continues to rapidly evolve - our industry is talking about automation and digitalization for both development and manufacturing more than ever. I’m sure we’ll hear more about Artificial Intelligence and Machine Learning in 2024, as these tools have a huge potential to impact supply chain operations. Digital fashion software brings the ability to make fit changes and apply design customizations easily and quickly. Retailers and brands are implementing this at higher rates than ever, and honestly, this circles back to sustainability too - reducing wasted time and resources.

Direct To Consumer brands have disrupted the industry so much at this point, that mainstay big brands are trying to adopt what they can to stay nimble and profitable as the economy and consumer desires continue to shift. Another trend the industry is embracing is more inclusive fashion - not only size and body type, but abilities/disabilities, ages. These are categories that have a lot of opportunities since they are not well served currently. Finally, I think reshoring and nearshoring will continue to dominate both in conversation and in action (look at the featured SEAMS pavilion at the upcoming Texworld show). All of this is really exciting news for a close-knit domestic supply chain (pun intended). Some of my 2024 goals include further collaboration with other SEAMS members, both through projects and shared business, and through a marketing and educational context. I’m excited to be joining the Board of Directors officially and will be working to bring more people into the organization. We’ve already had a couple of meetings around website improvements, and ways we can share more stories from our members.

Personally, I intend to utilize my SEAMS email blasts this year - and encourage you to add this to your list too. So many companies don’t take advantage of this great benefit! I plan to implement additional technology into my company’s workflow, specifically more with 3D pattern and prototyping, and will dedicate more time for training and professional development for my team to grow. I’ll be continuing to teach and speak. Ultimately, I hope to reach more people, inspire growth, to make people consider more possibilities.

Wishing all of you a happy holiday season, with rest and renewed spirit to tackle the new year ahead!

Cheers friends!

RECAP: SEAMS Fall Conference: Closing The Loop - Circularity Through Collaboration

Sat, 14 Oct 2023 16:38:07 GMT

I couldn't ask for a better group of people to bring together and work alongside for the SEAMS Association panel "Closing the Loop: Circularity Through Collaboration." Seriously, what an honor to lead the discussion between these incredible industry leaders:

Cheryl Smyre, Director Advanced Materials Parkdale Mills, Inc. + CiCLO® Textiles Jay Hertwig, SVP Global Brand Sales - Unifi Manufacturing, Inc. (makers of REPREVE® ) Alex Whitley, Vice President of Sales Contempora Fabrics

We kicked off Friday morning at 8am, the final day of the conference, and having followed some amazing talks already - I knew my job wouldn't be easy! I did a lot of prep work in advance, meeting with my panelists to learn first so that I could best craft the flow of questions, and make sure each had a chance to shine by sharing their insights and case studies. I also wanted to make sure the audience would learn a lot from listening to the conversation.

It is very important, especially with a tough subject matter, to make sure we circle it back to the people in the room, present them with ideas to take back to their respective companies, so that the impact may be amplified. Circularity is a deep discussion and there are so many ways this could go. Being on the last day after so many late nights, I also knew I had to bring up the energy a bit and throw in some jokes - so naturally I went with Barbie.

All in all, I am so very proud of myself, and my panelists, for what we pulled off together. I am incredibly grateful to SEAMS for asking me to do this for the Fall Conference, and I hope to work together on more insightful content for future programs. Special thanks to Ron Roach & Will Duncan, for your support and for providing me this opportunity.

Collaboration is key - No one can do this alone.

See original post HERE.

SEAMS' Networking Conference Passes The 'Vibe Check - October 2023 "X-FILES"

Wed, 25 Oct 2023 16:19:36 GMT

As seen in SEAMS.

SEAMS’ Networking Conference passes the ‘vibe check’

Those of us who participated in the SEAMS Fall Conference got an amazing educational experience, seeing the full process of the textiles industry under a single roof during the respective tours of NC State University’s Wilson College of Textiles and Cotton Incorporated.

As many of you in the material development community may be fascinated by the later design process, or 3D prototyping, many like myself in the product development division are equally fascinated by seeing the beginning of the process where fiber becomes yarn and finally fabric. It’s amazing to see our many diverse roles in this manner, and to gain a better appreciation for each part of the complex process of bringing textile products to life. I think everyone was equally blown away by the PyroMan™ demonstration at the Textile Protection and Comfort Center at NC State. PyroMan™ is a fully instrumented, life-sized manikin used to evaluate the performance of thermal protective clothing. The video is great but does NOT do it full justice.

The educational amuse-bouche was just what we needed to whet our appetites for the multicourse meal that was the rest of the conference. Many agreed this was one of the best agendas yet – it was full of compelling speakers and stories. Each conversation, panel and speaker went deep into their topics – giving us a lot to think about and take home.

Like the tours, we were fully immersed in the industry from farm and fiber to final product – to extending the lifecycle of the products we make to create true circularity, and looking to our future as we navigate complex trade and governing issues, production and development challenges while honoring and celebrating our rich legacies, and all the people involved as we forge forward.

Speaking of our future – we had a large group of senior and grad students from NCSU’s Wilson College of Textiles as our guests in the audience for the first time. For most of them, this was their first industry conference experience, and, I’d say we passed the “vibe check.” I saw and experienced great conversations during networking breaks between talks, cards exchanged and, come Spring, I’m sure we’ll get reports from our members updating us to new summer interns or job placements as a result.

We also had a number of first-time attendees and new members, and I know people left with amazing new connections and a feeling of belonging. I can say from my own experience, as well as from the perspective of an adjunct college professor, that these personal touch points make a big difference. The professional friendships I have made here with this group compel me to keep coming back. And it’s why we’ll hopefully see many of these fresh faces again, along with their many fresh ideas.

In the last blog, I asked you to open your doors – this time I implore you to take on a mentor role with someone – maybe within your organization, maybe outside or maybe a student. Organize time for them to shadow your workday, answer their questions, gain a better understanding and inspire them to be the leaders of tomorrow. The earlier you can make a strong impact on someone, the more likely they are to want to stick with this industry.

Open Your Doors - Welcome Opportunities - August 2023 "X-FILES"

Mon, 28 Aug 2023 15:42:55 GMT

As seen in SEAMS.

We are quickly approaching the Fall 2023 SEAMS Annual Networking Conference – September 12-15 on the campus of NC State University in Raleigh, NC, – and there’s lots to be excited about!

I will be leading a panel discussion on Friday morning, titled “Circularity Through Collaboration.” In reviewing the conference schedule – collaboration is a recurring theme, and one that you’re likely paying attention to (and if not, you ought to be).

Our industry is built on relationships, and working together across the supply chain to move things forward to the end consumer. Each of us plays an integral role in this process. Made in the USA is both a value and a passion of each of ours, but sometimes it comes as a challenge. Consumers have become more educated and savvier, and are largely very aware of the ills of the worldwide industry, and frustrated by the negative impact it has on the environment, the workers, and low-value end products.

However, they aren’t really exposed to or understand much about American manufacturing. More transparency would help this. People want to see how things are made, and many are even becoming more interested in making things themselves, and working with their hands. Yet, we struggle to fill factories and mills with skilled operators.

During SEAMS’ Annual Networking Conference, two tours are scheduled for our group – first at the NC State Wilson College of Textiles, followed by Cotton Incorporated. Tours are a great way to share what you do with the public, build trust and relationships with your customers and expose the next generation to potential career paths. It’s likely that you welcome brand executives to your space on occasion, but how often do you open your doors for learning opportunities – younger industry professionals, students, or even the general public?

In recent years, SEAMS’ President Ron Roach, President of Contempora Fabrics, has spearheaded tours of this nature, notably the AAPN Carolina Mill Tour for brands and retailers, with stops at multiple area mills and partners over the course of a few days. Said Roach:

“The Carolina Tour is probably the most popular event in the textile industry today. It usually has a waiting list and sells out very quickly once the dates are announced.

This tour is solely about education [which] started as an effort to pass along the experience and technical knowledge that we have along the U.S. supply chain to some of the younger and less experienced people that are coming into the industry. Clearly there is a thirst for knowledge as we have had attendees [whose experience level ranges] from being on the job a few weeks to very high-level senior positions at major brands and retailers.

It is really important that we as a supply chain continue to provide onsite education so that everyone can better understand how things actually work on the manufacturing level.

The intent for all of the member companies that participate on the tour was always to provide education as a way to give back to the industry.”

Also, SEAMS this year coordinated a West Coast Meet-and-Greet event in Los Angeles. A wide-ranging factory tour was provided by host Los Angeles Apparel Founder & Owner, Dov Charney. Attendees were able to see and interact with all of the company’s production processes. The event was sponsored by SEAMS’ member Tukatech, Inc., also based in Los Angeles. Ram Sareen, Founder & CEO of Tukatech, TukaWeb and TukaCenters:

“To be able to tour the factory of the largest manufacturer in the G7 is an invaluable experience for any apparel business owner. To see a real working cutting room running with the minimum number of people, to see NO work in process on the sewing floor, to see that it can be done and is being done in America was a great benefit to many.”

Dearborn Denim regularly hosts factory tours open to the general public, as well as to educational institutions. Said Rob McMillan, Founder/Owner of Dearborn Denim:

“As a direct-to-consumer manufacturer, offering factory tours is a great way to get to know customers face to face. They really enjoy learning about the manufacturing process and asking questions to better understand the supply chain. The experience ends up being a lot of fun and builds customer trust.”

Minnesota Knitting Mills (MKM) opens their doors throughout the year for various educational groups, non-profits, and business partners. According to Britt Moore, VP Sales and Customer Support at MKM:

“We have done extensive educational tours within our facility, and the value of the tours cannot be overstated. Students and teachers are always amazed at the complexity and processes that products go through during production. This leads to genuine interest and countless questions, even from those attendees that were only marginally interested at the beginning of the tour, as well as continued interest and discussion after the tours. We consistently receive tour requests via referrals from previous participants, and attendance always increases on repeat tours from the same educational facilities. Recruiting has benefited greatly from this exposure, by looping in both the schools as well as the students themselves.

The reaction from our customer base (both new and old) is similar, and customer buy-in always accelerates after a tour. They feel more connected to their products and knowledgeable about the process, allowing for easier and more open communication – which benefits both sides.”

I’m a huge fan of learning and networking in this way, and I try to tour facilities when I travel – reaching out to contacts and asking for introductions when available. When incorporated into a conference schedule, I always take advantage of the opportunity. The more we can each see and gain a better understanding for how a company operates, the better we can engage or refer business to one another. By extending this invitation to students or to the public, it builds trust within the community, and inspires people to consider another career path.

Beyond opening your physical doors, sharing some behind the scenes images, celebrating your workers, or sharing an insight, or commenting on industry news articles, are great ways to foster confidence and increase visibility for your company. Maybe social media isn’t your thing, but our industry is incredibly active on LinkedIn – so I’d recommend starting there. Some great examples I love are:

CCW shares a post with brand partner American Giant, highlighting one of their employees and shares his story.
Trotter Sewing shares an image of a sewing operator on the floor and what she’s working on.
Aptean Apparel shares an industry article on sustainable supply chains, along with their thoughts.

No matter your posting style or frequency, the important thing is to just start. I know there are many out there who will enjoy learning more about your point of view, and seeing what happens behind the scenes.

I am looking forward to meeting with and collaborating with my fellow SEAMS members, and in learning more about how you collaborate with one another across the supply chain. I hope to see more open doors, and hear how this impacts your business. As an industry which faces ever-changing challenges constantly, we can forge forward through strengthening our relationships with brands, bringing better understanding to what we do, and inspire the next gen workforce to thrive. Being open and more transparent is critical and by taking small steps, we can make that happen.

Texprocess Americas 2023 Recap – June 2023 "X-FILES"

Tue, 25 Jul 2023 12:26:47 GMT

As seen in SEAMS.

Texprocess Americas 2023: A Showcase of Innovation, Collaborative Insights, and
Unforgettable Experiences

It’s hard to believe it’s already been over a month since Texprocess Americas! I am delighted
to reflect on my experience at this year's show, which undoubtedly stands as my favorite trade
show. As a textile and manufacturing enthusiast, the atmosphere of the buzzing machines and
the showcase of cutting-edge technology and innovation was pure bliss.

Not my first rodeo, but my seventh – and my second time collaborating with show producers
Messe Frankfurt and SPESA. The Tech Talks series, which I was intimately involved in,
brought together brilliant minds from the textile and manufacturing industry, creating a platform
for knowledge sharing and collaboration. I moderated and participated in seven talks over the
three-day event. I also enjoyed weaving in many SEAMS members for these sessions,
amplifying their voices and expertise.

The Tech Talks area, strategically positioned between TPA and Techtextil and adjacent to the
SEAMS Pavilion, drew large and enthusiastic audiences. One notable session titled
"Empowering Your Workforce Using Technology" featured a case study with Carrie Bovender
of Grand Forest and Justin Hershoran of Aptean – both SEAMS’ members – highlighting how
shop floor software and ERP integration can support companies while enabling smarter, more
effective training methods. Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to visit Carrie's factory, and it
was exciting to recall my learnings from that experience.

The discussion on "Closing the Loop: Circularity & Cutting-Edge Collaboration" with Cheryl
Symre of Parkdale Mills, Meredith Boyd of SEAMS’ member Unifi, Inc., and Alex Whitley of
SEAMS’ member Contempora Fabrics was exceptionally engaging and offered profound
insights into sustainability efforts and collaborative initiatives. This talk sparked considerable
buzz on the show floor, attracting a full seated audience and numerous individuals standing on
the sidelines. It seamlessly paved the way for subsequent discussions covering topics such as
a brand's sustainability story, on-demand fabric printing and manufacturing, and nearshoring
efforts.

Additionally, I had the privilege of representing the Columbia College Chicago Fashion Studies
department on a panel titled "Next Gen: Designers of the Future." Alongside Doris TreptowKovacs from SCAD Atlanta, we explored how we prepare students by integrating the latest
technologies, fostering industry collaborations, and prioritizing sustainability and DEI programs.
Moderated by Mindy Martell, owner of SEAMS’ member Clothier Design Source and The
Apparel Mentor, the panel was an honor to be a part of.

Although my time to explore the exhibition floor was limited (shocking, given my schedule), I
was captivated by the "Training Takes Time" interactive demo, and hands-on experience
presented by SEAMS’ member Merrow/Superior and ISAIC. Volunteers including myself were
led through two common machine repairs, and were shown the innovative use of augmented
reality glasses for machine troubleshooting.

Overall, I am very proud of this show, and the Tech Talks in particular. The discussions were
enlightening and thought-provoking. All of the planning and preparation really paid off when I
looked out into full, captivated audiences, and more importantly – seeing that interest level
flowed naturally into continued conversations in the exhibitors’ booths afterwards. As a firsttime exhibitor myself, I had the pleasure of meeting incredible individuals, generating
promising business leads. I’ve had great follow up meetings over the past few weeks as a
result.

Conversations are actually what’s most important about attending a show like Texprocess –
and you’re majorly missing out if you skip over the after-show networking opportunities. This
year’s events are going to be hard to top. The Messe/SPESA combined effort at the MercedesBenz stadium was pretty incredible. Attendees experienced a behind-the-scenes locker room
tour, went out on the field, met the Falcons mascot and cheer squad, and of course had ample
opportunity to mingle. There was even some singing involved … How many people can say
they’ve performed at the Mercedes-Benz stadium? Well, you can count among that group
SEAMS’ Social Media Manager Devin Steele, SPESA Vice President of Communications
Maggie McDonald, and myself.

SEAMS gathered at TopGolf, which was extremely popular last year, and I love this choice of
venue because you can really relax, float between the bays, and connect with people in a
more intimate and casual atmosphere.

Looking ahead, I am filled with excitement for Texprocess Americas 2025, knowing that it will
be a tough act to follow this year's outstanding events. I am also eager to reconnect with my
colleagues once again this September 12-15, at the SEAMS Annual Networking Conference in
Raleigh.

PODCAST: Marketing in the Wild - Episode 96

Mon, 17 Jul 2023 13:43:53 GMT

Episode 96: Creating Patterns of Success ft. Xochil Herrera Scheer.

Julia chats with Xochil, owner of The Chicago Pattern Maker, who helps businesses with their product development needs. Xochil talks about what it’s been like to be in business for 15 years, the challenges of building a team, her favorite parts about owning a business, and the importance of having community within your industry.

Listen on:

Interview with BHAV

Wed, 08 Apr 2020 08:16:52 GMT

Designer Bhavana Jain, owner and designer of contemporary clothing brand BHAV, interviews Xochil about her Mexican heritage and her personal fashion style. Read on to learn more:

Xochil Herrera Scheer – BHAV (shopbhav.com)

Client Feature: One/Third and Jacket 14

Tue, 21 Mar 2023 08:13:18 GMT

Anna Jane behind the jacket brand One/Third on working with The Chicago Pattern Maker: "When we have a new design like Jacket 14, we work with a local designer/pattern maker Xochil Herrera to make our dreams come true. She’s been an incredible partner."

Jacket 14 and Your One/Third Questions - See (Anna) Jane. (seeannajane.com)

PRESS: Elmira College Students Get Insights From Fashion Industry Leaders

Fri, 07 Apr 2023 08:03:10 GMT

Elmira College students learning the business of fashion recently had a chance to interact with and learn from leading fashion industry representatives during two panel discussions including Xochil. In attendance was Tommy Hilfiger, the founder of his namesake brand, and his siblings Andy and Betsy Hilfiger.

Elmira College Students Get Insights From Fashion Industry Leaders | April 07, 2023 | Elmira College

PRESS: Apparel Industry Leaders Prepare for 2024 and Beyond at Texprocess (Aptean.com)

Mon, 24 Apr 2023 08:01:22 GMT

What Happens at Texprocess? What Can You Expect?
Texprocess is the best way to understand the forces driving the sector. At this symposium, you can discover new industry technologies, find new products and learn about emerging trends. You can attend sessions and workshops where you’ll get inspiration from industry expert insights and the latest research. Students can showcase their talents and grow their careers.

Here’s what you can expect from Texprocess:

Texprocess always hosts thought leaders and industry pioneers. The exhibitors are at the cutting edge of the industry. In the breakout sessions, attendees can learn about new tools, technologies, tips and tricks to help their companies become more efficient, more profitable and more sustainable. This year, Aptean will be presenting in the Tech Talk series (moderated by Xochil Herrera Scheer and Shoshana Burgett). Join us Thursday, May 11th at 11:45 a.m. for our talk on ‘Empowering & Growing Your Workforce with Technology’. Be sure to take some downtime to enjoy one of the hosted events or visit the city.

Apparel Industry Leaders Prepare for 2024 at Texprocess (aptean.com)

PRESS: Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America Shows will Offer 40+ FREE Educational Sessions on the Show Floors (International Filtration News)

Mon, 01 May 2023 07:59:17 GMT

TECH TALKS: Led by industry creatives Xochil Herrera Scheer and Shoshana Burgett, and located right in the center of both shows, the Tech Talks will feature a lineup of complimentary presentations, demonstrations, and discussions covering topics such as robotics for the sewn products industry; on-demand furniture manufacturing and workflow; using LED for digital drawdowns; engaging workforce with technology; technical design; sustainability, and more!

Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America Shows will Offer 40+ FREE Educational Sessions on the Show Floors - International Filtration News (filtnews.com)

PRESS: Energy Level High at Techtextil North America (E-Textile Communications)

Fri, 12 May 2023 07:57:07 GMT

Introducing market-leading innovations by over 350 exhibitors from 30 countries, the unified edition of Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas opened doors in Atlanta at the Georgia World Congress Center Wednesday.

Energy level high at Techtextil North America / Texprocess Americas | Industry News | etextilecommunications.com

PRESS: Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2023 Advance Industries through Networking and Education

Tue, 16 May 2023 07:55:42 GMT

Texprocess Americas Tech Talks were coordinated and moderated by Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker. She neatly sums up the session experience saying, “I had an awesome week of insightful conversations with industry leaders at Texprocess Americas. I am so proud of this series. All the planning and preparation really paid off when I looked out into the full audiences - even standing room overflow - and seeing interest flow into side chats with speakers afterwards, moving into the exhibitors booths. What a successful show!”

Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2023 Advance Industries through Networking and Education (messefrankfurt.com)

PRESS: Techtextil North America, Texprocess Americas Highlight Industry Advancements (E-Textile Communications)

Fri, 26 May 2023 07:52:33 GMT

Texprocess Americas Tech Talks were coordinated and moderated by Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker. She neatly summed up the session experience saying, “I had an awesome week of insightful conversations with industry leaders at Texprocess Americas. I am so proud of this series. All the planning and preparation really paid off when I looked out into the full audiences - even standing room overflow – and seeing interest flow into side chats with speakers afterwards, moving into the exhibitors’ booths. What a successful show!”

Techtextil North America, Texprocess Americas highlight industry advancements | Industry News | etextilecommunications.com

PRESS: Xochil at Texprocess Americas (Textile World)

Wed, 31 May 2023 07:50:40 GMT

Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker managed and moderated the Texprocess Americas Tech Talks. She commended the event’s success and the positive interactions.

“I had an awesome week of insightful conversations with industry leaders at Texprocess Americas,” Scheer said. “I am so proud of this series. All the planning and preparation really paid off when I looked out into the full audiences — even standing room overflow — and seeing interest flow into side chats with speakers afterwards moving into exhibit booths. What a successful show!”

Success In Atlanta For Collocated Shows | Textile World

EVENT: A Celebration of Chicago Style

Wed, 31 May 2023 07:47:33 GMT

“A Celebration of Chicago Style” event hosted by Cynthia Rowley and Nigel Barker. The event’s goal is to help to elevate both Chicago Fashion and the great fashion talent that resides in this city, and to show consumers the breadth of local talent they can support by buying their wares.

Xochil was honored to be on the nomination committee and participate in this event.

A Celebration of Chicago Style - 21c Chicago (21cmuseumhotels.com)

EVENT: Fashion In Flux - The Steps To Production with AIBI

Sat, 30 Jan 2021 07:44:19 GMT

One of the most important steps to success can be having a good handle on the steps and details involved in getting a garment ready for production. Materials sourcing, patternmaking, prototyping… how do you know what you need for each step? And how do you know when you’re ready?

Featuring Panelist Xochil Herrera Scheer.

Fashion In Flux - The Steps To Production (aibi.com)

RECAP: Chicago Fashion Summit

Wed, 15 Feb 2023 07:42:07 GMT

The Curio and Chicago fashion industry leaders sat down to discuss the state of Chicago fashion, our organization's respective 2023 agendas, the needs of the Chicago fashion industry, and how we can effect change as a united force. While our local design community faces many difficulties, there are also clear solutions if we can implement to help cultivate a thriving creative economy.

Participants included leaders of:

The Curio (Ian Gerard & Maggie Gillette)
FGI Chicago (Hila Geller & Bhavana Jain)
The Chicago Fashion Incubator's Anna Hovet Dias)
BLK + BRWM Market's Christine Griffith
The Chicago Fashion Coalition (Marquan Jones & Andrea Knight)
AIBI (Ambar Campos & Kat Anderson)
Columbia College Fashion Dept (Colbey Reid & Melissa Gamble) and
Local industry expert Xochil Herrera Scheer

The struggles of Chicago's fashion community are plain to anyone in the industry and probably most fashion-conscious consumers. There is a huge lack of resources for designers to succeed, a lack of career paths for the many talented fashion students graduating from schools including Columbia College, The School of Art Institute, and the University of Illinois, and a lack of proper promotion of the existing fashion talent in Chicago by the City, retailers and others.

The result has been a loss of fashion talent to other cities who are more supportive, a decentralized and fractured Chicago fashion community, and a lack of identity for Chicago fashion as a whole. Most consumers are unaware of the vast bevy of diverse and talented designers that call Chicago home that they could be supporting with their buying power.

The gathering, the first, with more to come, was also very productive in uniting these fashion organizations on big potential priorities for the Chicago fashion community including the lack of a centralized garment district, no organized official Chicago Fashion Week, and the single most importantly issue that has a cascading effect - a complete and total lack of funding and support from the City of Chicago. While the 3rd largest city in the nation, Chicago, unlike many of its smaller Midwestern counterparts including Indianapolis, Dayton, Columbus, and Kansas City. as well as other smaller markets like Nashville, Charleston, Atlanta and Birmingham has no city staff assigned to fashion programming and provides no direct grants and funding for fashion specific projects in the way that it both underwrites and promotes visual arts, performing arts and music programming. This was not always the case.

The Summit's participants are now working on solutions to these, and other issues, and The Curio will broaden its future Summits to include many of the other key players in Chicago's fashion scene. United - we can make real progress! More to come!

Chicago Fashion Summit Recap — The Curio (curioexperience.com)

PRESS: BRAVA Magazine Feature: Meet These Entrepreneurial Businesswomen

Sun, 15 Sep 2019 07:36:47 GMT

"'The design process is difficult and can involve multiple rounds of prototyping, revisions and sometimes redesign', says Herrera Scheer. 'Having trust in the process and trust in each other is so important,' she says. 'I’m glad to not just work with Lev Apparel, but also to become friends with Krystle and Abby. We relate as business women, entrepreneurs and mothers.'”

See the full article

RECAP: Refushe Fashion Challenge

Tue, 03 Mar 2020 07:28:33 GMT

“I’m really looking forward to seeing the beautiful fabrics and the looks created,” Xochil shares. “I think empowering young girls and women through creating meaningful work is an important way to drive change and give these women the economic freedom to pursue their dreams. Stay tuned for more updates and designer introductions to come, and RSVP to Fashion Challenge: Reimagined today!

See the Fashion Challenge: Reimagined

VIDEO: What Your Pattern Maker Wishes You Knew (Fashion Brain Academy + Xochil)

Fri, 03 Mar 2023 07:17:16 GMT

What do fashion designers need to know to work with a pattern maker? Xochil Herrera Scheer, aka the Chicago pattern maker reveals what she wished clothing designers knew before they contacted her + what she wants to know about YOU, your product, and your ideal customer.

Check it out at Fashion Brain Academy

PRESS: Just Style - US Apparel Industry’s Quest For a Regional Supply Chain

Wed, 17 May 2023 07:04:35 GMT

In an exclusive interview at Texprocess Americas 2023, Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) president Michael McDonald tells Just Style why he remains optimistic that a regional fashion supply chain could become a long-term solution for the Americas despite the ongoing economic slump.

See the article at JustStyle.com

#TPA23

Tue, 25 Apr 2023 07:34:51 GMT

Virtual Fittings - Yes It's Possible!

Fri, 02 Oct 2020 10:37:01 GMT

We work with many of our clients remotely -- either because they live outside of the Chicago metro area, or these days so that we can avoid in-person meetings to prevent exposure and spread of COVID-19.

Video conferencing via Google Meet is great, we have the ability to see the garments on body live and talk through the fit adjustments with our clients. Fitting is a crucial part of the product development process, and being able to see the garments on the body we can see based on wrinkles or drag lines, where pattern adjustments need to be made to get a better looking garment. More than just moving seam lines or taking an item in/out or lengthening or shortening seams, many pattern revisions are more complex than that -- correcting a sleeve cap or adjusting the crotch curve on a pant for example. Often clients can communicate minor changes written or verbally, but lack the experience that we have to know more critical pattern changes.

Since it can be a challenge to see and communicate garment revisions when we’re not in the same room - we put together some tips to help ensure a better virtual session.

Take measurements of your fit model before the session begins - especially in the case where you or a friend is your brand’s fit model, but even when using a professional model - it’s important to make sure the model’s measurements are consistent each time. Recording this and noting whether the model’s measurements have changed is helpful to refer to when determining which changes to make to the garment. If you are your own fit model, have someone else help you take your measurements to ensure they are accurate.

Lighting and available space - Make sure you have a well-lit room, and space within your webcam’s view to show the entire garment. If it’s difficult to see something, it may not be addressed properly in the fitting and thus missed in the pattern revisions. If lighting during the meeting is difficult - the next tip can help.

Take photographs in advance of the garment (front, back, side, and close-up of any problem areas). Send this in advance of the fit session if possible so we can address these areas in more detail together. Again if you are your own fit model, get a tripod and timer, or have someone else take the photos for you. This is especially important because you cannot necessarily see everything by looking down or over your shoulder in a mirror as you can when you stand naturally and straight on.

Make notes in advance of the meeting that you want to talk through. The purpose of the session is to review fit, function, and fabrication. The more notes you prepare to review, the better your pattern maker can work with you during the session. These are all things to consider in a live in-person session as well.

FIT: Do you notice any areas where the fit is off? Too big/small? Too tight/loose? Pay attention to neck size/shape, shoulders, sleeve length, placement of darts. On pants - is the waistband hitting at the correct spot on the body for your design? How does the crotch, hips, thigh, knee and leg opening look? Does the side seam fall straight or sway forward/backward? How’s the length?

FUNCTION: Test any functional elements (or note if you need more time following the session) - including pockets, closures, or especially when designing a technical garment - test the garment by wearing it, not just trying it on. Are the pockets placed where they are natural to reach into? Is the pocket bag depth appropriate for the items that may be placed in them?

FABRICATION: This category includes not only the actual material the garment is made from, but also any trim items, or construction methods used. This is a good time to note whether you need to add bar tacks for security, change out a trim element that isn’t working, or add top stitching to make a seam lay more smoothly or to make it appear more finished. Sometimes the fabric itself is changed during the design process because it doesn’t hang as you’d hoped, or isn’t serving the design in the desired way.

Have your tools ready! You’ll need pins (safety or straight pins), chalk (or other marking tool), and a tape measure. Marking the garments during the session and sending them back to your pattern maker will further help ensure that all corrections are made accurately. Having a tape measure on hand is best vs. estimating how much you want to change something by.

Professional fit models can be hired to work virtually, or in-person with the pattern maker or the designer. They are trained and experienced in live sessions, and able to provide valuable feedback on the fit of the garment, as well as taking care to measure and photograph the samples, even if they work remotely. In the case where the brand is less experienced, a virtual session or hiring the model to meet with the pattern maker is probably the best bet - so that the pattern maker can see the garment live, while the designer video conferences in to direct and provide feedback.

Nothing can truly replace a live fit session, but with the right tools, technology, and clear communication, it’s very possible to be successful without ever even meeting your pattern maker in person. We’re happy to be able to effectively service our clients throughout the country.

Garment Fitting Safely During Coronavirus

Fri, 26 Jun 2020 14:10:51 GMT

Since Illinois (and much of the US) shut down in mid-March because of the COVID-19 pandemic, we have had to shift the way we do business in so many ways. One of the major hurdles to overcome was how to do fittings when we couldn't meet with clients in person. Luckily, we are pretty comfortable with virtual fittings since many of our clients reside outside of the Chicago area, but in-person fittings are always much better and for certain types of garments, such as swimwear, it's MUCH easier to evaluate the fit when you're able to be in the same room. Fittings are where a designer can really see their ideas come to life, and are crucial to the prototyping process.

Our state moved into Phase 3 in the beginning of June, and we combed through safety guidelines which were designed with various industries in mind, in order to come up with something that would work for us, and get us back on track with client projects that were forced to be on hold. We're somewhere in between "retail" in that we deal with clothing, and "personal care services", since we have to be in close contact and there is physical touching involved in fitting a garment.

I work primarily from my home office, even before this year, and regularly had clients over for meetings and fittings, but decided that it was best for both my clients and my family, that meeting elsewhere would make the best sense -- somewhere without a child running around, and more easily able to be disinfected -- so I made arrangements with Chicago non-profit AIBI, to use their Fashion Lab, where I am a member and serve on the Board of Directors. Together we crafted a plan for how to conduct fittings safely within their shared studio space.

The below is an excerpt from my collaborative blog post with AIBI's Kat Anderson.

Who’s in the Room?

Having a lot of people in a small space is definitely something to stay away from right now. So you should try to keep it to a minimum of three or four key people: the fit model, the pattern maker, the designer and an assistant if needed. One person should, from 6 feet away, be the dedicated note and picture taker (and possibly video). This limits the amount of people who have to be in close contact. The video could be shared later with anyone who isn’t in the room during the fitting (or possibly video conference them in).

Face coverings are a must for everyone, but it looks like face shields (like this one from local company Mohop shoes) could be adequate protection especially during the short time in fittings that two people are in close proximity. On top of that it allows all parties to clearly articulate in conversation. Your face shield must come down below your chin, and wrap around the sides to make sure that you are covered properly. (You’re even safer if you wear a face mask under the shield.)

I find these to be very comfortable and you can even be stylish!

Private Changing Area Included

Ideally, there would also be a separate changing area for the model, so that they don’t have to use public restrooms, etc. The AIBI Fashion Lab is available with a Day Pass for members and non-members.

Sanitation

Keep things like hand sanitizer, cleaning wipes, and alcohol wipes (for cleaning the face shields) easily accessible. Disinfect door knobs, tables and other surfaces before and after the fitting.

It’s best to also set aside pins and a pin cushion separate from your usual supplies. This way you can quarantine them between fittings. Remember, according to the WHO: “the COVID-19 virus can survive for up to 72 hours on plastic and stainless steel, less than 4 hours on copper and less than 24 hours on cardboard.”

A pin cushion or magnetic pin holder that can be worn on your wrist is really helpful so that you’re not having to search for your supplies and again reducing unnecessary contact. Many of us are used to holding pins in our mouths (a very bad habit even before this!), in lieu of a “third hand”, so keeping them on yourself makes the process go more smoothly.

It seems likely that the Coronavirus can also be killed with very high heat, so you may also want to steam the garments before and after being fitted to reduce the risk of spreading disease to the model and anyone who must handle or stitch the garment after the fitting.

We believe by following these safety precautions that we can safely meet with clients and fit models, and keep product development moving forward!

Together with AIBI we created this PDF guide, Coronavirus Safe Fitting Procedures, available to download for free.

Shelter + Shine

Fri, 27 Mar 2020 12:48:15 GMT

Like everyone else, we understand the gravity of the current situation with COVID-19 and our hearts go out to those who have contracted the virus, as well as all the amazing people working in hospitals and healthcare. The best thing we can all do as individuals is to stay home to help “flatten the curve”. There are also lots of efforts in the fashion community to help make masks and other personal protective equipment (PPE), which is wonderful to help bridge the gap until FDA approved equipment can be manufactured and delivered to everyone who needs it. We are aiding in some of these efforts to connect colleagues who are sewing with materials and requests needed, as well as donating materials.

In this post we would like to share some positive ideas on how to spend your time at home during “shelter in place”, to get your mind off of some of the more depressing news and use this time to recenter yourself, and come out from this in a better mental space. Staying connected to others while physically distancing yourself is so important right now, as well as taking care of your mental health and maintaining an optimistic attitude. We hope these ideas help you, and please feel free to share any others you might have!

Enjoy a free webinar from:

Business of Fashion - topics/speakers include: Fashion History for Today, Fashion Styling, Building a Direct To Consumer Brand, and Digital Marketing
Alvanon - topics include: Leading & Learning Through Uncertainty (April 1) and Fitting Inclusive Sizes Digitally (April 8)

Tune into to IG Live with Chill Chicago for a daily guided meditation.

Visit a virtual museum or an aquarium that you wouldn’t have normally visited since it is across the nation. The Monterey Bay Aquarium has a free live cam of sea otters, dolphins, etc. This could even be a fun activity for your kids to enjoy as well. The amount of museums around the world that have virtual exhibits now is incredible and you can see so much from your computer screen.

Learn a useful new skill from SkillShare. You can get two free months to learn anything from marketing to music to photography. Who knows - you could be painting like Picasso by the end of this lock down.

Go to a concert...virtually, of course. There are so many artists putting on virtual concerts. Check out this link of artists that are putting on shows on Instagram, Facebook and Crowdcast.

Listen to a podcast. There are so many different podcasts for everyone to love. There's podcasts about anything from A to Z. You name it, and someone has a podcast about it. Some fashion-related podcasts we recommend:

The Successful Fashion Designer with Sew Heidi
Jane Hamill Podcast
Story Brand (Inspired by a great book!)

"Marie Kondo" your home. You can binge the show on Netflix (or read the book) while cleaning/organizing your home. I do this at least a few times a year and there is no better feeling than getting rid of things that you don’t use/need and giving them a better home.

Spend quality time with the people you live with, whether that is finally having a family dinner or playing your favorite game with them, it can still be valuable family time.

Even though we are currently restricted to our homes, there is still so much to do and see. This is the time to take advantage of time that you didn’t have before, whether you want to learn a new skill or just relax. We can all do something else to keep our minds off the craziness that is happening outside of our homes.

Just a reminder: stay healthy, wash your hands, and find something to keep you happy during these uncertain times. :D

FTC Disclaimer - This post contains Amazon affiliate links. If you make a purchase using the link, we will receive a small commission. This post contains our own thoughts and recommendations, and is not sponsored.

#ShopSmall Alternatives to Black Friday Holiday Shopping

Sat, 16 Nov 2019 13:01:55 GMT

With the holidays just around the corner, you’ve probably started to notice your email and news feed being flooded by Black Friday sale previews. It can be hard to not feel enticed by all of the great deals that are showing up every other day in your inbox, however -- it is all an illusion. Retailers take advantage of Black Friday (using tons of marketing) to get your money that day, and try to make up for losses earlier on in the year. The reality is that most big retailers continue to have sales throughout the holiday season, and not just on Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

So, instead of filling Jeff Bezos’ pockets with even more money (he gets plenty of our Amazon Prime dollars the rest of the year), here are some other ways you can spend your time on Black Friday:

1. Stay in bed in your pajamas and nurse your Thanksgiving dinner food coma.
2. Decorate your house for the December holidays now that we have officially moved past Thanksgiving and no one can give you a hard time for decorating too early. #OneHolidayAtATime
3. Complete a random act of kindness or volunteer somewhere. Spread holiday cheer!
4. #GetOutside - Take a walk, enjoy some fresh air. Maybe meditate because you need it after comments made by extended family members at dinner last night.
5. Eat another piece of pumpkin pie. Because I am 99.9% sure that there are leftovers hiding in your fridge.

Now that you have successfully avoided Black Friday, you can now wholeheartedly participate in #SmallBusinessSaturday! Small Business Saturday is all about buying from and supporting locally owned businesses. This includes shopping stores in your own town or (nearby metro area), small brands on Instagram (#shopsmall) and checking out independently run holiday markets. This is a great way to put money back into your community, because when you shop small, what you are really doing is helping a store owner pay for music lessons for their child, instead of contributing to a holiday bonus for a CEO.

Many communities have holiday markets to make the shopping local even easier for you. I wanted to share some great holiday markets here in Chicago that you should check out:

Made In Chicago Market

A celebration of innovation & beauty in local craft & design from the hardworking hands of Chicago makers.Up next: 11.30.19
Hosted by Chicago Sun Times.

TICKETS/INFO HERE

Santa’s Workshop 4200 - A Marketplace for Unique Art and Seasonal Gifts

A Market Place for Unique Art and Seasonal Gifts. Open Studios throughout the building and guest Artists and Vendors!

TICKETS/INFO HERE

Chicago Artisan Market

This curated market celebrates the ingenuity of independent, small businesses who channel their passions into creating one-of-a-kind products. Meet & shop with the artisans and learn how they make their products, eats, art and confections. Look, feel and taste your way through this delightful marketplace!

TICKETS/INFO HERE

BIDE Market

This is a fully sustainable, plastic-free, vegan, and cruelty-free shopping experience that will take place seasonally. If you’re a sustainable brand that would like to take part in the first market, let us know! We’re looking for vendors and sponsors who are making intentional choices, creating plastic-free products, making without animal products, and are interested in conscious consumption.

TICKETS/INFO HERE

Show of Hands Chicago

Founded in the summer of 2013 by Chicago-based design company, OrangeBeautiful, SHOW of HANDS was created to be more than just another craft show. It's a commitment to independent design. It's the presentation of high-caliber work in a professional way. It's the understanding that craft can be couture and handmade can be high-end.

TICKETS/INFO HERE

One of a Kind Chicago

The 19th annual One of a Kind Holiday Show will return to The Mart from December 5-8 with more than 600 talented artists and makers. Enjoy a one-of-a-kind experience while browsing and shopping from a variety of categories of handmade work. This includes accessories, bath & body, ceramics, fashion, home goods, holiday, photography, sculpture and more!

TICKETS/INFO HERE

MADE Holiday Pop Up

A carefully curated experience showcasing handmade, tailor made, custom made, homemade, loft made, city made, kitchen made, well made, finely made, creatively made, uniquely made, precisely made, beautifully made, perfectly made, outrageously made, delicately made, in-your-face made, and deliciously made.

TICKETS/INFO HERE

West Lake Market

The West Lake Market is the West Loop’s best admission-free shopping experience with Chicago vendors and local products. From skincare products and jewelry to fresh bouquets, clothing, and furniture- local products will adorn the street and offer an exclusive day of shopping in the West Loop, with plenty of free street parking available. The West Lake Market takes inspiration from markets across the globe, incorporating unique vendors and family activities to create a wonderful, admission-free, Saturday experience for everyone.

TICKETS/INFO HERE

Renegade Craft

After years of nurturing artists and Makers of all disciplines, Chicago’s expansive creative community has grown to be an international force in arts and culture. Our Flagship Wicker Park Fair is known as the epicenter of craft, where over 400 of the best Makers + Designers gather for a bustling and inspiring weekend that never fails to attract huge crowds.

TICKETS/INFO HERE

If your goals include wanting to avoid excess packaging, or maybe you’ve already Marie Kondo’ed your home this year, another great option is the gift of experiences. This is also more sustainable and it gives the receiver a fond memory (rather than inadvertently contributing to more clutter that they might eventually re-gift or get rid of anyway). You could:

Buy a gift certificate to a restaurant or even a hotel - maybe your sister and her husband could use a night out without her kids!
A membership to a museum - maybe your dad loves science, or your nieces would love to play at the children’s museum.
Plan an outing - maybe your mom would enjoy a spa day, but even better if you go together!

I hope that this list gives you some good ideas on alternative ways to shop this holiday season, and to think more consciously about your purchases and where your hard-earned dollars are going.

While small shops and brands are awesome, and attending markets are also a fun way to spend your weekend with friends, we understand that these places might not meet all of your Holiday shopping needs. Obviously, you can’t buy the new iPhone 11 at a Holiday market. However, if you plan ahead and are intentional to start your shopping supporting small businesses, you can rest assured that your money is supporting people and their dreams instead of big-box chain retailers that just want your money to pass along to their shareholders. After finishing what you can by shopping small, then you can fill in the gaps at places like Amazon or Target as you need to, and still feel good about the impact you have made.

The Product Development Process

Fri, 01 Nov 2019 10:00:07 GMT

Have you ever wondered what goes into starting a clothing line? Or have you been wanting to start and not know where to begin? This is the perfect place to start! We are going through the steps of our process that are crucial to the development process.

Inquiry Call:

Let’s have a quick chat about the process, get to know each other a little bit, and answer your questions about the process to determine if this is a good fit to work together. We’re happy to give you 15-20 minutes of our time for free. If your questions are more involved or you would like more time to review your project in more detail, we can do that during a Design Meeting. It is super helpful if you have as much information as possible to start with, i.e. if you have a pattern, tech pack, technical sketch, inspiration for your design, etc. If you don’t have some of these items, that’s totally fine. Just be aware that the more information you have for us, the more information we can give to you.

Design Meeting:

Our design meetings can be in-person or online via Google Hangouts. The design meeting is where we determine where you’re at in the process, and discuss each product/style in detail like closures, fit, fabric, and other design details. It is super helpful to bring inspiration images so we can get the best understanding of what you want your end product to look like. We’ll make a plan for development and follow up with an estimate for our services. We don’t believe in packages - this is fully customized to your needs. Like I mentioned before, you may or may not have a technical sketch or a pattern. Your estimate will depend on what you already have or don’t have. This will also determine the length of your meeting:

1 Hour Meeting
- Typically for 1-4 styles or if you already have well defined flat sketches and sourced materials.

2 Hour Meeting
- Typically for 5+ styles or if you need to talk through designs and materials, or if designs are preliminary.

Design & Sourcing:

In this stage of development, we will start refining design sketches, narrow down sourced materials and edit the products which will move forward into development. We start to build your tech pack in this stage (tech sketch, design details, stitches and seam styles, BOM). In order to start production with a factory, you will need to have a completed and detailed tech pack. This is basically a set of instructions that your factory will use as a guide to manufacture your product.

Sourcing can be a little more drawn out because there are SO many options out there. The best thing to do is to go to a trade show like DG Expo that has an abundance of fabric, zippers, buttons, etc. so you can try to source everything at once. This is a great resource to get swatches and find out what you like.

Development - Pattern & Prototyping:

The next step is to take your designs plus measurement specifications (and pattern blocks if you have them) to build first patterns and sew prototypes using your real fabric (or close substitute in some cases). Once the prototype is completed, we will conduct a Prototype Review Session and go over the fit, function, fabrication and make note of any revisions needed. We will repeat this process until the sample size is approved. The average is 3-4 rounds of this process on most apparel items, however each product and client fit goals are different. Your tech pack evolves with the product and will be revised as well as more detail added (pattern ticket, pom specs, sample pom specs, detailed construction specs; plus any revisions necessary to BOM, design details or design sketch).

Pre-Production:

Once the final prototype is approved, your pattern and tech pack is ready to test with your factory and be graded. We assist you with your size chart and send out for grading. We’ll help you navigate and prepare your required labels. We’ll help you establish a relationship with a reputable factory and review your factory sample before moving into production. We’re also available to meet with your factory (with you or on your behalf) to help ensure the process is smooth. Your factory should complete a sample for you to approve. Once this happens, you are ready to start manufacturing.

Project Management (Monthly Retainer):

We don’t like to track time for emails and short phone calls that inevitably happen during the product development process. And no one likes receiving an itemized list of every 5 minute activity.

Communication is necessary both with our clients and with our internal team. We also receive and manage your materials and other assets, and keep things on schedule. This retainer helps us to take care of you and your stuff, and cover all that “extra” (but necessary) time without having to track every minute like a crazy person, or have you feeling like you’re being nickeled and dimed.

This retainer is not meant to take the place of actual meetings or a consultation, so a general rule of thumb is if we need to schedule the call and it’s something that takes more than 10-15 minutes, it’s not included here and we would have to schedule something else outside of this retainer.

If you want us to be extra involved with your production facility, or managing your vendors, regardless of the number of styles, we can create a customized retainer for you that will suit your needs.

All around, starting a new brand or continuing to expand your brand can be fun, but is also hard to do all on your own. We are here to help you move from just an idea to a final product, from the technical design, pattern and tech pack. If you want to learn more and get started, you can fill out this form to get in contact with us!

Moms Behind the Scenes

Sat, 11 May 2019 10:13:36 GMT

Last year for Mother’s Day I interviewed some moms who were clients of mine, so this year I decided to focus on moms who work “behind the scenes”, like I do. Each is an entrepreneur, wearing all of the hats, raising children and running successful businesses. People will often ask moms, “how do you do it all?” – and for me, I often don’t have the answer. I just do what I can, as much as I can, and try to do a good job. Whether that job at the moment is morning snuggles and braiding hair before school at 8am, drafting a pattern at 11am, meeting a client at 2pm, putting out fires at 4pm, listening to my daughter tell me all about her day at 5:30, convincing her to eat her dinner at 6pm, reading bedtime stories at 8pm, answering emails at 10pm. And juggling my ever-changing calendar every day, remembering it’s Pajama Day on Tuesday and Picture Day on Friday. I’m thankful for the support I have from my husband, family, and caregivers, teachers at school, for making all the things possible. I, like others, don’t always feel like we measure up, but we prioritize as best we can. I’m glad to have friends and colleagues like these amazing women. Conversations jump from cute or funny stories about our kids, to solving a problem for a client, to commiserating on particularly hectic days like when a child gets sick. This is why we celebrate these women on Mother’s Day, and every day. As an aside – sometimes things happen, but not when you want them to. This post is a great example. I got all the replies and photos last week and early this week, but it was a travel week for me and my plans to work on it during downtime at a conference just didn’t work out. So instead of posting this on Friday, it’s going up on Saturday morning. And that’s OK. To answer some of my own questions – I live by my calendar and schedule everything as much as possible. Knowing that things can and do often change, it’s easier to plan around and actually get things done. I have had a harder time taking time for myself, but have prioritized going to yoga class regularly and sometimes taking an hour or two during a weekday as I need to. Sometimes that means I catch up with non-urgent things on a Saturday night, but I’m OK with that. Balance is not perfect. Balance is figuring out how to juggle all the things, without falling down. I’m proud to be raising a strong 3 ½ year old girl, and I’m proud to be building a business where I can spend time with her, attend parties at preschool, and show her she can do anything.

Meet some kick-ass moms I admire:

Jessica (Zyla) Owusu-Afriyie Suite Creative Studio

Mom to Gaëlle, 2 yrs 9 months

Kelsey Tanner O’Connor OnPoint Patterns

Mom to Dahlia (13) and Jude (9)

Jennifer Veguilla-Lezan Bella+Sophia Creative The Make & Create Podcast

Mom to Bella (11) and Sophia (6)

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Jessica - Suite Creative Studio

Tell us about yourself and your business: JESSICA: I am an apparel designer with 13 years experience and a focus in intimate apparel. I started my career in NYC as a designer for intimate apparel, activewear and sleepwear. Working for a private label company, I designed for many retailers including Aéropostale, Lane Bryant, Forever21, and many more, and launched intimate apparel lines for brands such as Catherine Malandrino and C&C California with distribution domestically and worldwide in stores including Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor, and Bloomingdale’s. In 2017, I started Suite Creative Studio, which is a business-minded, apparel design consulting firm that helps clients with everything they need throughout the apparel design and product development process. We work with brands of all sizes, providing services such as creative design, sourcing, product development, project management, business strategy, and much more. Many of our clients come to us specifically for our strong expertise in intimate apparel, activewear and swimwear, but we work with most other product categories, too. We are huge supporters of our clients and do everything we can to help them succeed in creating beautiful products and successful businesses. What have you learned through motherhood that has changed the way you do business? Work/life balance was always something that I knew was important, but I did not always achieve it. As a mother, there is no choice. You have to figure out a balance between your roles as business woman and mother (and wife/partner, friend, sister, daughter, etc). I used to work all hours of the day and night. Prior to having a child, there were countless times when I left the office at 2:00 am working towards a project deadline. Now, when my child needs to be picked up from daycare, or needs to go to a doctor’s appointment, or is home sick, I have to be able to leave work. My hours in and out of the office need to be focused and productive. It is a balance that takes work and one that I am still perfecting. How do you balance your time / what's your schedule like each day/week? Do you have any tips or tricks for managing time better / being productive? I like to start most days with a workout, then I walk my daughter, Gaëlle, to daycare and head into the office by 9:00 am. My husband picks her up from daycare and I usually leave work around 5:30 pm to go home and make dinner. After dinner we have bath time, book time and bed time for Gaëlle. When the stars align, she goes to bed immediately without any protesting at all. I then prep her lunch and snacks for the next day, as well as my lunch to bring to the office. I try to squeeze in some household chores, a little work, or blogging time before bed and some down time with my husband to watch a show together and maybe have a glass of wine. I find that the more I can do the night before to make mornings run smoother, the better my day starts and continues. Preparation is everything. Mornings with kids can be frantic and that feeling can seep into the rest of your day. Reducing stress in the morning helps me start the day with a more calm, clear mind which helps me stay focused and productive throughout the day. How do you take time for yourself? What is your non-negotiable and when do you say "NO" to commitments? My husband and I started a weekly “night off”. We each pick a week night to have to ourselves. I use that time to spend time with friends, attend events on my own, or sometimes even just go to dinner by myself. I have got a few other mom friends to do this, too. We often will plan a night out together, or if someone’s husband is out of town, a night in together. Prior to putting this running “night-off” on the calendar, I found it hard to take time to myself without feeling guilty about doing so. Having a designated night to myself makes taking me time easier and guilt-free. Saying no to commitments is not my strong suit. I notoriously try to do everything, even when it just does not make sense. I am trying to learn to really evaluate commitments that come up to decide if it’s something that is reasonable for me to give my time to. Time and energy is finite. I am learning that saying no sometimes is necessary to be able to reserve time and energy for my family and my work. If committing to something will leave me with no downtime, or without the time necessary for me to prepare myself and my family for the next day, then it will likely be a no. What are you most proud of? This is a tough question to answer. When my customers are happy with the service we provide, when I see clients launch a brand or a new product, when we help others (especially moms) build a business they can be proud of, that does make me proud. However, while, yes, I am proud of the business I have built so far and the work that we do at my company, as a business owner there is always more to be done. I want my company to continue to grow. I, in no way, feel like I have accomplished all that I have set out to. From a mother’s standpoint, I would say almost the same. My daughter makes me proud every day. She is a strong, smart, and determined little girl. I hope to show her what hard work can provide, to give her a sense of self, and to teach her how to feel strong, confident and capable. Being a mom, though, is hard, and sometimes scary. I doubt myself often and only hope to offer my daughter the very best that I can. Who or What inspires you? My family and close friends inspire me the most. My husband inspires me with his endless focus, capacity to learn, and care for the people around him. My daughter inspires me with her curiosity and her intense love for me. My mother inspires me by the way she raised her children and continues to give as much love and support as she can. My sister inspires me with her strength. My amazing friends inspire me with the grace by which they live their lives, choose their paths, and make their own dreams come true.

Kelsey - OnPoint Patterns

Tell us about yourself and your business. KELSEY: OnPoint Patterns was born out of a love of fashion and design. As much as I love both, I know my strengths are far more suited to the technical side of the business. It¹s a kind of “fashion math” that feeds both my artistic and pragmatic sides. Although this is an area of the fashion industry people rarely think about, and in many cases don¹t even know exists, it is arguably equally as important. Successful designers understand that it is not enough to conceptualize, pattern and sample a great design. That is only part of crossing the finish line. Once a design has been reworked until it is a perfect sample and base size pattern, that is where my work begins. At OnPoint Patterns we take that pattern and figure out the math of making sure the fit remains exact and consistent across all sizes, taking into consideration, growth rates, fabrications, shrink variations and the end customer. What have you learned through motherhood that has changed the way you do business? PATIENCE. I think every working Mom learns to be more patient after having kids though, not just business owners. How do you balance your time? Do you have any tips or tricks for managing time better / being productive? Balancing time as a Mom is a bit like trying to walk a tight rope as an elephant. I am constantly reminding myself that parenting a child and parenting a business is a marathon, not a sprint. My tip is, be a Mom first. How do you take time for yourself? What is your non-negotiable and when do you say "NO" to commitments? If I am lucky I can get to a Barre class across the street at lunch time a few days a week. In the past I had a really hard time setting limits and boundaries. I felt like I would lose business if I said no to a deadline or request. As I was unwilling to return sloppy or rushed work, it would eat into my family time. What I have come to realize is that if you set boundaries and provide great work, it sets a standard that your clients respect and understand. What are you most proud of? I literally explode with pride when my kids ask to work for me or if they can help me do something. My daughter helps me fill in POMs, my son makes labels for me, etc. They see me working for myself and want to do the same. Who or What inspires you? My clients inspire me. The one’s who are established and already have a name, as well as the new ones who are trying something new. This industry is hard. When I started my business someone said to me, “Watch out, this industry likes to eat their young”. I have found it to be very true in some cases. Fortunately, I have also found it to be quite the opposite. I like to think I am part of the industry that understands and promotes, "If one of us is successful, we are all successful”. People who have that work ethic inspire me. Negativity is exhausting, I try to stay away from it.

Jen - Bella+Sophia Creative

Tell us about yourself and your business. I am an independent Graphic Designer & Illustrator who specializes in surface pattern design for textiles. I am a mother to two wonderful girls: Bella and Sophia (they’re the inspiration behind my brand). I am a proud Latina (Puerto Rican & Mexican) who grew up on the West Side of Chicago. I run a small creative agency that focuses on graphic design and digital media for clients and that also has an Etsy shop selling fabrics (I also sell these on Spoonflower and on Queenofraw.com), digital products and illustrated paper goods like stickers and stationary. Pretty much anything I can put my patterns and illustrated designs to work on, you’ll find in my shop. I attended art school for my undergrad and focused in Fashion, but I ended up working in the tech side of the business focusing on product development and digital design. Then, I taught in higher education as an adjunct professor for the last 8 years. After undergrad I pursued a graduate program and graduated with an MBA focused in small business and entrepreneurship. I always had the bug to run my own business and I wanted to prepare myself to ensure I could do so in a strategic and successful way. I also knew I wanted to teach and the additional degrees ensured I was able to do so. During this whole time, I was also always doing a side hustle, whether it was freelancing or eventually launching my own digital fashion magazine: (Halfstack Magazine) that I published for 6 years. I’ve worked for major brands like Claire’s and Icing as well as independent small businesses and non-profits, but I am finding designing products, creating art with my own vision along with teaching is what is making me feel most fulfilled. My current focus is on building up my product line, strengthening my client relationships and further establishing my indie agency brand identity. What have you learned through motherhood that has changed the way you do business? When it comes to motherhood, I truly believe it helped me evolve into the woman I am today. I had my oldest daughter quite young. I was actually in my senior year of college when she was born. I remember thinking how important it was for me to not give up. My future and her future depended on it. It was a feat that some didn’t think I could accomplish, and I am so proud that I did. My girls as well as my ambition are the driving force behind my ability to work so hard. I’ve got mouths to feed. This truly puts a fire under you, allowing you to push yourself to reach those unreachable goals. It also gives me perspective in terms of how I am modeling behaviors for my girls. I want to inspire them to be independent, strong and driven women by embodying those very ideals. When it comes to working independently, it is also important to not forget to try and create some sort of semblance of balance in order to give your kids the attention they need and deserve as well. I know I am guilty, often, of working too much. Yet, my girls will be the first to say, “Mommy! You’ve been on your phone or computer doing too much work! Spend time with us!” They have a way of bringing you back into the moment so you can be present for them. Motherhood also has taught me that it isn’t always about working harder, it’s much more important to work smarter. It totally pulled me out of the “hourly” freelancer mentality. If I can manage my time well and finish a great project before a deadline and within a smaller number of hours than expected, than people are paying me for that skill, not just the time. Which, in turn, helps me find ways to spend more time with my daughters. How do you balance your time / what's your schedule like each day/week? Do you have any tips or tricks for managing time better / being productive? I always feel like I never have enough time in the day, but I am working really hard to change that mindset. I am a type A personality and I have to plan. I have a digital planner on iCal that tracks all my appointments, meetings, family stuff etc. It’s like a master planner that I share with my partner and oldest daughter on the cloud. I also have a paper planner for work that I write in, in addition to a project management tool called Trello that I use to manage to-do lists, project deadlines and prep work leading up to projects. I also like to use my timer on my phone similar to the Pomodoro method. This helps me stay focused on one task at a time and finish before I move on to the next. I am also a physical list writer. There’s just something about crossing something off a to do list that makes me feel accomplished! But, when it comes to managing time and being productive, Trello is by and far my favorite app. It allows me to work directly with clients to manage project work flow. I can upload files, send messages, track completed items and include deadlines. How do you take time for yourself? What is your non-negotiable and when do you say "NO" to commitments? I won’t lie. This has been something I have struggled with A LOT over the years. I worked myself to exhaustion this past winter and got really sick! It scared me. And when I say work, I am not just talking work, but also family stuff, school obligations and trying to be a good “super working mom” with volunteering, keeping a clean house, scouts and school stuff! The last few months, though, I’ve made it a point to put my health in the focus. I keep reminding myself that I can’t pour from an empty cup. So, I am making it a point to put me first. If that means having to say no to projects, asking family for a hand with taking care of the kiddos or taking a day to myself, then I am making it a point to not feel bad about it. When my health is impacted or my family is impacted, that is my non-negotiable. If that means saying no to something for work in order to help out at the kids school or vice versa, I am ok with that. I can’t be everywhere at once and my life order is now: me, family, work. When it comes to taking time for myself, I am just beginning to learn the beauty of self-care. To things I am making a priority is taking time to do yoga and getting back into running (I suffered an Achilles tendon rupture last year so I am just back to walking now 10 months post-surgery to reconnect it to my calf muscle). I am working on getting into a meditation habit (I’ve been reading books on transcendental meditation) and I’m making it a point to read again in the evenings. This all helps my brain to decompress from constant creative mode. It helps me to let go of the tensions I hold so tightly to in my body and it requires me to be present for myself. I am also working on being open to splurging on myself from time to time. We can all to easily fall into the “freelancer mindset trap” of feast or famine. Therefore, it takes a lot of convincing to spend money on oneself! I’m not saying be outrageous, but I am making it a point to remind myself it’s ok to go get a haircut, massage or have a pedi. These kinds of things help me feel good about myself and give me those precious alone moments that can be so fleeting when you are a mom. What are you most proud of? Familywise: I am so proud of my who my daughters are evolving into. They are these strong-willed little ladies who each have a heart of gold, but so much sass. It’s awesome knowing I got to play a part in helping these little people find out who they are. They are creatives themselves and while I don’t push my career or hobbies on them, they still find their way into my studio. My oldest has been begging me to open her own Etsy shop to sell the stickers she and her sister make on the Cricut. I’m thinking I might let them this year. Personally: I am proud about the kind of person I have become and the kind of work I am trying to do. I often think back to when I was a kid and then a 20 something and I am amazed at how far I’ve come despite the odds I was up against. I grew up in very trying circumstances. My mom was only 17 when I was born, she was a single mother who dealt with abuse for a good portion of her adult life and we were poor living in some of the toughest parts of Chicago. Yet, she never gave up and she instilled that drive in my brother and me. She valued education and with that helped us to break the cycle. The dark times led me to beautiful moments of light as an adult. Who or What inspires you? The people who inspire me are the every day people who are working day in and day out to create something out of nothing. People like you Xochil! I am inspired by women of color who are breaking the mold like Alexandra Ocasio Cortez and reminding Latinas like me that we can make a difference in this world through our work (creative or political!). I am inspired by women artists and illustrators who have a point of view and are working to pass the mic to help give a platform to those who don’t always have a voice. People like fellow Etsy shop owner: CandysKloset who sells Latinx inspired products and illustrators like Sha’an D’Anthes who are not afraid to let their personalities show through their art. Illustrators like Dina Rodriguez are so true to who they are and are open to talking about the less glamorous side of the creative industry. I am most inspired by people who are doing the damn thing and who are not afraid of failure because it is inevitable and an opportunity to grow. They inspire me to keep pushing forward through the obstacles and remind me that there is an ebb and flow to things, and I have to trust in myself and the universe.

A big, heartfelt THANK YOU to all these amazing women for taking time from their already busy lives to share their stories and advice!

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!

Benefits of a LIVE Collaborative Design Session

Mon, 15 Apr 2019 11:20:29 GMT

Some designs are well suited to be translated easily from flat sketch to pattern (with measurement specs of course). However other designs that require draping, or functional items that need to be experiemented with can benefit from having a LIVE Collaborative Design Session. What does that mean? It’s a "workshop" style meeting where I, as your pattern maker, and you, as the designer, can work together and collaborate on what works or doesn’t work, how your ideas affects the product or garment design and discuss potential production challenges. We can make changes to the prototype, utilizing the sewing machines (and the seam ripper) right here in the studio, and accomplish more in a 3-4 hour session than might be accomplished in 2-3 weeks with back and forth notes, fittings, and of course time in between meetings. This is an opportunity for you to utilize an “in house” pattern maker, without of course hiring your own team. I have worked with a few clients in this manner over the years, including Bryn Taylor during the development of her launch collection for Ouisa. I asked her to share her experience working together. She was very prepared as a designer and was able to communicate her vision, but was also very open to collaborating and making changes to her designs as the line evolved, and going along with what the fabric "wanted".

How do you prepare, and what do you need to bring to have a productive Design Session?

“In preparation for the session, I would bring as many visual examples as I could that would hopefully show you what was in my brain. These would include sketches, photos of similar silhouettes or details, and even some sample garments that had details, closures, or silhouettes I wanted to replicate. For some styles, I would also do a very terrible mock-up of my own at home using scrap fabric just so I could attempt to show you the direction I was heading toward.”

Design is visual, so as expected, the more visual information you can provide to convey your vision, the better I can understand what you want to achieve.

How did working together live with your pattern maker streamline your development process or help improve your end product?

“Since I don't have technical design or construction experience, It was so incredibly helpful to have an expert there with me to interpret and implement my ideas. And since you know fabric and construction so well, you were able to tell me if an idea would not play out how I imagined due to fabric or other technical constraints. You also were able to expertly re-pin mock-ups in the moment for me to see immediately what a change would look like.”

Sometimes when you design something, especially with draping, you may need to change fabrics or change the design in order to make something work. What you drew on your sketch may look a lot different once it’s in fabric on a mannequin or model. This is one reason it’s important to use your real fabric (or very close substitute) when prototyping. The design evolves and is edited with each prototype, and sometimes multiple times in a Design Session.

What types of designs are best to work on during a Collaborative Design Session?

I don’t think this session is necessary for all designs, and I wouldn’t encourage someone to schedule this type of session for their entire collection even, unless each was a very complex draped piece. It doesn’t serve both parties well to have you sit around while the pattern is cut out or prepared for the session. Sometimes there are elements of a garment that can be placed and added on during a fitting, such as a patch pocket placement on pants, or leaving a strap unfinished to get the correct length and placement. That means the full garment is otherwise finished, with just very small elements being placed and sewn live. With a draped design or a conceptual prototype, we may be testing multiple design elements to see what works, what doesn’t. Conceptual prototypes are usually for highly functional garments, for sports performance, medical or other application, and often are products that may be eligible for a patent. It can also be helpful in the later stages of finalizing your prototype (meaning this is the 3rd or 4th or later version), and only small tweaks are needed at this point. Rather than making a new prototype or waiting to make those minor adjustments, we can do that together and refit on your fit model immediately to confirm and approve the final prototype. This is largely dependent on what that change is, but something like a hem length, adjusting a waistband, rotating pockets, or taking in a hip, can all be easily done live.

“I was so thankful for the collaborative environment. I think my design process is most successful when there are people with other strengths able to weigh in and let me know how something I've imagined will turn out in real life. Some designers may prefer to have all the answers, but you lose so much amazing input when you don't invite and appreciate collaboration.” - Bryn Taylor

Thank you Bryn for sharing your experience and some photos from the development process! Photos provided by Bryn Taylor. Ouisa: Web | Instagram

How To Have a Successful Design Meeting

Fri, 05 Apr 2019 16:58:06 GMT

Launching your first collection or bringing to life a specific product is exciting, but can also be a little bit daunting. Behind any market-ready garment lies a multitude of things to complete. Your first, and most crucial, step to setting up your project timeline and making sure your team (hi!) is on the same page for your product or collection is the Design Meeting.

Meeting with your pattern maker and/or technical designer lays the groundwork for your project scope, and ensures that you communicate your ideas and vision effectively. Often times new designers don’t have all the vocabulary of industry terms, or aren’t able to sketch, so it’s difficult for them to show what they want or know what to ask for. We’ve all heard “an image is worth a thousand words” -- well in this case that’s definitely true.

Here is a list of items to prepare and bring with you to have a successful meeting (hint: bring lots of references!)

Prepare a list of each style with sketches and/or images of specific items. Examples might be a collared shirt, a onesie with lapped shoulders, pants, etc. Even better - if you can come up with style numbers for each item, not just names or general terms.

You would be surprised but sometimes people come to a meeting without knowing the exact items they want to make, so we have to spend time editing the list and determining the styles. That’s OK if you need some consulting here, so don’t be discouraged, but we will need some extra time to discuss and make those decisions on how to move forward.

Put together a mood or inspiration board for your garment or collection. This helps your technical designer and pattern maker to see what you envision in terms of fabrication, fit and silhouettes, etc. This can be a collage, or something you put together in PowerPoint or Google Docs.

Know your price point. Of course you probably haven’t done a full costing work-up yet, especially if you don’t know how much your material is going to cost and have no idea for labor. But, you should have an idea of what your retail price range will be. We also need to know if you plan to sell wholesale or direct-to-consumer, so we can help you to choose the appropriate fabrics, seams and finishing details for that market (and so you have a profit margin!).

Know your sample size and size range for garments. For example, a Medium sample size, range XS - XXL. It’s best to choose a “middle” size, no matter if your range is 0-12, 1X-4X, etc.

Bring something to reference for sizing specifications. Ideally, bring a garment, or two, in the sample size you want it to be made in so the pattern maker can reference it for sizing purposes. This is especially helpful if you have a specific body type or fit in mind. Remember, this is not intended to be used to copy the entire style, but rather to pull basic measurements from so we can start to build your block. We’ll also want your body measurements for your fit model.

Bring images (or sketches, or garments) of design and/or functional features for each garment. You can show silhouettes to show the type of fit you like, design details such as pockets, top-stitching, or type of pleats, for example. Don’t forget to think about trim detail, and closures. Some terms that people commonly confuse are pleats vs. tucks vs. gathering, top-stitching vs. edge-stitching. When you provide images for the details you want, there’s less room for confusion or misunderstanding.

People bring all different “levels” of imagery, and I don’t want to judge your artistic skills here. But it’s easier to understand what you want with Image A vs. Image B.

Collages are a great way to convey what you want!
Whether you sketch or use a photo for your main image, either is OK.

This unfortunately doesn't tell me much about what you really want.

Fabric (or idea for the fabric to be used) for each style. Bring fabric swatches, images, or even retail garments with you if you need help with sourcing. Additionally, check out our post on fabric sourcing for more information on how to find the right fabric from fabric reps and mills.

Seams & Stitch Details. Images or reference garments are great to show exactly what you want. As your pattern maker and technical design team, I can advise you on what may or may not work given your particular design or fabrication, and knowing your intended retail price point. You can find images online or in books such as 101 Sewing Seams for specific seams and details.

One important thing to remember is that we are here to help you - we’re on the same team, and we share the same goals! Starting a new business isn’t easy, and I will assign you some “homework” sometimes, but I’m also here to help guide you through the process. We’re available to answer your questions and also to clarify details to ensure we’re on the same page with you.

Following your Design Meeting, we’ll have all the information needed to create your custom project estimate and timeline, so we have a road map of how to proceed with product development.

Telling Stories Through Fashion

Wed, 06 Mar 2019 23:12:28 GMT

About a year ago I was asked to speak for students at Lakes Community High School for their annual Writer's Week program, to show how to tell stories through fashion. I was honored to share my own personal story, how I got interested in the industry, how I started my career as a pattern maker, and show examples of my work. I also spoke more generally about the design process, how brands and fashion designers work through their inspiration, use colors and mood boards, to convey different ideas.

I also talked about how we tend to choose our own clothes to project a certain image, follow trends or set ourselves apart from others. This lead to an introduction of the Fashion Revolution #WhoMadeMyClothes movement, and my passion for ethical manufacturing and "slow fashion."

Hopefully my message inspired someone in the audience -- and I'm pleased to share highlights from this talk (edited down from an hour) for you!

https://youtu.be/1h_a35mfne0

Designers, or anyone who wears clothes: How do you tell stories through fashion?

Pattern Maker & Product Developer Xochil Herrera Scheer shares the story of her fashion journey with Lakes Community High School during Writer's Week 2018. Learn how she got her start in the industry, as well as talking about how we each tell our own stories through clothing, make purchasing decisions, and a little about the design process.

Thank you to Lakes Community High School for this opportunity!

Videography by SitKip Productions

Your Technical Fashion Toolkit - ABC Seams

Thu, 27 Sep 2018 08:13:41 GMT

The key to communicating your product effectively to your pattern maker, sample maker and especially to your factory, is having a detailed and easy to understand Tech Pack. Communicating your message visually is effective both to bridge potential language barriers, as well as to save someone time in reading and referencing your tech pack, ensuring that the information is actually seen, understood, and utilized during production and product development.

Once you have your design sketch prepared, you'll want to make call-out's for what seam finishing and construction methods are needed for your product. Many designers out there may or may not know the name of the stitch, or what machine does it. Even if you do, communicating your needs visually will ensure that you achieve the results you are looking for. I am happy to share a great resource that can help you do this - ABC Seams!

ABC Seams is a company based in Australia who I found and be-friended via Instagram. I was delighted to see them launch their e-book earlier this year, 101 Sewing Seams. The book is broken down into 3 simple categories: Construction, Hems and Finishes, and Details. From there the seams are grouped into similar structure or style and contain multiple options. What's great is that each seam is illustrated both technically and paired with an image to show the seam on fabric. It's easy to take a look at your own clothing or reference samples and compare physical seams to ones listed in the book, to find what will work best for a style you are developing.

Some of the advantages of using this code system:

Using a proper vocabulary and pairing that with the visual images will help you to get better results when working through product development, pre-production and production.

- get better results in a shorter period of time

- reduce development costs

- improve working relationships

I started with the e-book, which I utilize as a reference, but also to take screen shots of the seams to include in my tech packs (which I build in Excel). However, I also purchased the print version when it became available, and enjoy using it as a resource during client meetings to help them to identify stitches and make decisions. Depending how you like to work, you might enjoy having both versions, or just the digital copy.

ABC Seams also offers a membership to their site - and there's a FREE version! Membership includes free access to the Seams Gallery to refer at any time, which can be used to explain your designs clearly, and be more creative when designing. You will also receive a monthly email with the latest updates to the Seams Gallery (new seams), and interesting resource files to download. Joining also gives you a discount on the e-book, so I suggest doing that to take full advantage.

I'm excited to be able to offer a discounted rate on the e-book for my readers here, thanks to Belu at ABC Seams!

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101 Sewing Seams E-Book €8 Buy Now €8 JOIN ABC SEAMS FREE MEMBERSHIP, then: Buy the eBook with 30% discount here. (€5)

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The print copy is available on Amazon:

EVENT: DG Expo 2018 Seminar: Using Tech Packs for Successful Production

Wed, 01 Aug 2018 14:55:47 GMT

I'm thrilled to be participating in the second installment of DG Expo Chicago later this month. I will be giving a new seminar about Tech Packs, as I did last December. This is such an important topic, and one that many designers have questions about as they go through their product development process. Tech Packs are just as important as your pattern and prototype when it comes to development, and for approaching factories with your production order. Update 8/15/18: I am excited to announce a second seminar has been added! [content_box]

How to Create a Tech Pack for Successful Production

Presented by: Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker

Designers use a tech pack to get a sample or product made with minimal errors. A tech pack gives your contractors an instructional guide for your product, and serves as a "visual contract" during production. This seminar will discuss the elements that go into creating a good tech pack, including information needed for working with domestic or international production. [/content_box] Register Here: Seminar #7 - $15 Tuesday, August 28, 3:00 PM

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How to Streamline Product Development with Your Design Team

with Jessica Zyla, Suite Creative Studio and Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker

Build beautiful inspiration boards and refine your designs to work effectively with your pattern maker, technical designer and development team. Learn about a variety of construction methods, and determine sizing and grade rules appropriate for your target market and product category. Through this overview of the product development process, you'll come away prepared to communicate your ideas and expectations in order to avoid potentially costly mistakes. [/content_box] Register Here: Seminar #9 - $15 Wednesday, August 29, 12:00 PM

ABOUT DG EXPO CHICAGO

DG EXPO features a two-day Fabric & Trim Show for Designers, Manufacturers (producing Apparel, Accessories, Home furnishings, other Sewn Products), plus Private Label Retailers, Fabric Stores, Event/Party Planners. Exhibitors are Wholesale Suppliers (including Mills, Converters, Importers, and Distributors) who have low minimums, and many have in-stock fabric and trims. And... Seminars focused on Business Growth & Profitability, plus Textile Classes! More Info: DG EXPO CHICAGO Register here to attend the show (FREE) and Purchase your ticket for this seminar ($15)!

Come Meet Me at the Show!

I will have a table at the show and would love to meet you! The Chicago Pattern Maker is sharing a table with Suite Creative Studio. The Fashion Group International of Chicago will also have a table at the show, and is hosting two events on Tuesday August 28th: Fashion Marketing Seminar (5-6pm), with Jet Black PR and Dearborn Denim, followed by an Industry Mixer (6-7:30pm). MORE INFO/PURCHASE TICKETS HERE.

PLUS: FREE DOWNLOAD: Sourcing Toolkit from The Chicago Pattern Maker

Check out this FREE toolkit I created for taking notes as you source new vendors and materials. Also helpful for post-show follow-up and to keep all your sourcing information organized during development. Also be sure to read my blog: Questions to Ask Fabric Reps When Sourcing.

Moms Mean Business

Fri, 11 May 2018 11:29:15 GMT

[mp_row] [mp_span col="12"] I’ve been a business owner for almost 10 years, and a mother for almost 3. I have always admired women who were “doing it all”, but also scared how I would be able to make that work myself. I felt more concerned about what having a child would mean in terms of changing my business vs. being actually parenting and being a mother. How do women do this? Am I committing to working part time and limiting my growth? Will I feel guilty? Will my daughter feel ignored?

"It’s all about balance", they say.

But seriously, what is balance? It’s hard for ANY human these days to feel like they have balance, let alone an entrepreneur. So how do parents, and specifically moms (since a. this is a mother’s day inspired post, and b. even with very evolved and supportive spouses, the default childcare provider is still usually mom), do it all? Well, the short answer is: we don't. When my daughter was born, I didn’t know how much time to take off. I also didn’t realize how hard it would be working up to my due date. I remember calling my friend Jess, while working on a pattern on the floor of my studio, with my huge belly, crying for help because I was days away from my due date, and hadn’t finished my projects. I thought I prepared by passing off as much as could to my colleagues, setting up my clients for continued services while I was off, but, as the sole proprietor of my business, I felt like I still needed to be available in certain ways to my clients, even if via email. I brought my weeks-old daughter along with me to model fittings, and transitioned into a part time basis by hiring a nanny at home, which was short lived. I then leaned on my stay-at-home mom friends (THANK YOU!) to care for my daughter while I worked. Finally, when my daughter was a year old, I found an amazing new childcare center, and the timing was perfect. We started with 2 days a week, then 3 days, and she’s been full-time since 20 months. I found a great fit for our family and she thrives there with awesome teachers, engaging curriculum and of course, making friends with kids her age.

I wish I had known other mom business owners who I could get advice from, and make that transition less scary.

I decided to ask a few of my fellow mom + business owners, all who I know well - they are current and past clients of mine - to share their stories and how they “do it all” - which by the way, just means we do what we can. I think the best way to sum this all up is: There is no perfect way to do business or to parent, so maybe doing both isn’t so crazy after all? A big, heartfelt THANK YOU to all these amazing women for taking time from their already busy lives to share their stories and advice! [/mp_span] [/mp_row] [hr]

Meet the Moms:

Emily Blomberg Caboosee

Mom to Brett (7), Finnley (4), Fallon (2)

Tiffany Marie Bard Tiff Marie Maternity

Mom to Aston (1)

Jennifer James Active Ego JJ Collection

Mom to son (7), daughter (3)

Jenna Zielbauer RockEase Parents Who Rock

Mom to Maximara (3), Axe (6mo)

[mp_row] [mp_span col="12"] [hr]

What have you learned through motherhood that has changed the way you do business?

JENNA: Motherhood has taught me to embrace the chaos and embrace the pivot. Things don't always go as planned and that is OK, the sooner you are willing to accept it the better of you will be. I've also mastered my prioritization and multitasking skills, that's for sure. Every day is different being a stay at home working mom. I currently have zero control over my schedule, my son Axe rules the roost for the time being. When I get the opportunity to sit down and work, I always have a running task list, highlight the most important 'to-dos' so I know if I only get one thing accomplished that day it is the most important. EMILY: In motherhood and running a business being efficient is key! Multitasking! I didn't start my business until after I had children, so I've always needed to be careful with my time management. I started when my son was 1 and now he is 7! Time goes fast Mamas, so guard your time. JENNIFER: Patience is key! It's literally like raising a baby. I have seen how my son has grown from being an infant to now a 1st grader in school. It did not happen overnight, it's a process. I take this lesson daily as I continue to work on growing my business. XOCHIL: I have learned how to manage my time and projects more efficiently, and how important it is to step aside and say “no” sometimes, to keep family time sacred. Of course since I work with many start-up’s and smaller businesses, being flexible is still important, but I can still carve out family time and create a balance that doesn’t keep me away from home most nights. TIFFANY: Business objectives may not always follow a timeline that I can control; motherhood presents a balance of priorities that are ever-changing. I’ve learned to focus on the compilation of daily objectives that accumulate to a productive week. Similarly, celebrating the smaller wins help motivate and keep me moving in right direction to achieve the bigger picture. [hr]

How do you balance your time? Do you have any tips or tricks for managing time better & being productive?

JENNA: Balance? What's balance? LOL. I work in between feeds, diaper changes and anything else my 6 month old son needs. And then I'll usually fire up the laptop once both kids go to sleep which tends to be the most productive hour or so of my day. If you want to make it work, you have to fit it in when you can. Keeping a list of ongoing prioritized tasks has been crucial, especially with two kids. I also heavily rely on my Google Calendar. Without it I'd be lost and would have missed a hell of a lot of meetings. EMILY: Just within the last couple months I have tried to get more scheduled. I have a very passionate personality so it's hard for me to not think of whatever it is I am working on in the business. So I am trying to be in the moment. When the kids are napping, focusing on work. When the kids are up, trying to focus on them. I just got Tailwindapp and LOVE IT. It has really helped me be able to batch out my Instagram posts so that I'm not constantly on my phone working on a post. I'm also trying to have daily goals, whether business or personal. If I have a goal of "clean the bathroom, then write a blog post , then do laundry" I can keep myself focused on these tasks and actually complete them! Even if I look around and see the house isn't perfectly clean, I can mentally say BUT "The bathroom is clean, I wrote a blog post and the laundry is done!" I love listening to entrepreneur/business podcasts and because I’m obsessed with being efficient, I play them while I'm putting away laundry or doing dishes. TIFFANY: I optimize my time by working during my son’s nap schedule (1-2 hours in the afternoon) and evenings after bedtime. Since my son is home with me full-time, I try my best to give him the attention he deserves when he’s awake. Find a place in your home that is social-media and technology-free. Often-times these distractions can lead us into a space where we’ve lost time without even realizing. I also keep a task tracker in excel that outlines my key priorities, so that my “work” time is not spent thinking of what to do next. JENNIFER: It's simple, I don't. I am literally the worst person to speak to this because I do not believe there is balance. I do strive to balance time, not only for my company, but my family, friends etc. But it's impossible. I just prioritize with my husband and kids coming before anything else. Even then, I don't always seem to balance so well. You have to be okay with 'failing' in some areas. The key is to not fail too many times in the same area week after week. Every Sunday I use that time to prepare for the upcoming week. Literally, I prepare like I am about to get into a boxing ring. I make sure that I am prepared and organized and ready to tackle Monday like never before. It really helps when I am prepared at the beginning of the week. [hr]

What advice do you have for a woman who is currently in business and thinking about having children?

EMILY: All personalities are different, some [moms] seem to find it easy to head back to work after 6 weeks (or at least that is the vibe they put out). But it is so much harder to leave that baby than one can expect. Pregnancy and childbirth are a crazy and amazing experience, but they will change you. Be prepared to SLOW DOWN. You will never regret putting starting a family over finances/business. XOCHIL: This motherhood + business owner journey is very individual to each woman, and you have to do what feels right to you. But, I think it helps to know other women are rocking the journey! JENNIFER: You can do it! Just do it. There is no manual on this kind of stuff. Everyone has their own experiences but know we are all in it together. TIFFANY: Consider what stage of maturity your business is in, and if you need the extra resources to help keep your dedication and focus. Becoming a mom is a job that you can’t prepare for and it doesn’t have a start and end time. Calibrate your expectations for your business and yourself. JENNA: Figure out your game plan. It is possible to do both, but you need to plan for it to be successful: who will help you with childcare, will your husband help with household chores, what happens if your child is sick (what parent is responsible), and if you are going to be a stay at home working mom what tools are out there to make it easier for you. If you feel like you are taking too much on, you probably are. Take a step back and figure out where help is needed and how you can get that help. [hr]

What advice do you have for a mom who is thinking about starting a new business?

JENNIFER: First of all, kudos to you for even thinking about it. Seriously, we wear so many hats during the day, that adding more to your plate is even more commendable. The advice I would give is to stay committed with your idea and/or concept even when no one else agrees with what you are doing. It's your vision, not theirs. JENNA: My husband thinks it is cynical of me, but I always tell budding entrepreneurs "if you don't rely on anyone you'll never be disappointed" - a harsh reality, but an important lesson. If you are starting a new business or venture, you need to be prepared to do it solely, because you may end up being the only one advocating for that business. EMILY: Children are so demanding, but I think it is important to feed our creative side to be well balanced. We need to pour into the other parts of lives besides just our kids. But again balance is important. Kids grow up so fast! So don't waste the little years not being there by being busy with business constantly. TIFFANY: Being a mom shouldn’t be a hindrance to achieving your aspirations. It can be a compliment to what you want to achieve and inspire in ways you never imagined. I’d say the same advice, calibrate your expectations for your business and yourself without taking on more than you can handle. [hr]

What are you most proud of?

JENNA: Seeing RockEase, from concept to prototype, come to fruition. I would have never in one million years dreamed I would have a patent on a product that parents can use to aid in the development of their children. But here we are, 3 years later, about to go to market and it's freaking amazing. TIFFANY: I’m proud of making the choice to pursue my true passion. With a background in financial services, I was climbing the corporate ladder, but not personally fulfilled. I’m happy that I’ll never live with the thought of “what if” I applied my creative abilities and try to meet a market need. Self-employment has been the biggest and most rewarding challenge I’ve ever assumed. JENNIFER: Thankfully I have a lot to be proud of. I am most proud that I have the most patience family and supporting team around me. If it was not for them, none of this would be possible. I appreciate their patience, kind words, and support. EMILY: I own a US Utility Patent on my baby clothing technology. This was a 3 year up and down journey. For it to finally issue was pretty awesome. [hr]

Who or What inspires you?

JENNA: Anyone following their entrepreneurial dreams. This journey is not for the faint of heart. It's hard, ruthless and at many times very isolating. Seeing people grind day after day to achieve their dreams pushes me even harder. The stories about entrepreneurs like Jeff Bezos and Elon Musk they really drive it home for me. I want to be the next Jeff Bezos. EMILY: I have binged listened to How I Built This podcast. All of these stories of entrepreneurs, their struggles, their triumphs; are so inspiring me to keep going. TIFFANY: My brother, Nick, inspires me. He is the Executive Director of Unite America, a platform to help elect Independent candidates into office. At only 25 years old, he ran an independent campaign for the House of Representatives in the state of Pennsylvania and is determined to break the partisan gridlock by offering a viable third-party option. His ability to motivate and inspire others to make impactful change is conducted in a way of humility and empathy. I truly admire him as a leader and public servant. JENNIFER: Endless possibilities inspire me. We as women have so many talents, many at which are hidden and I am so inspired by all the women entrepreneurs who are doing what they love all while not completely losing themselves. Family is important and our kids mean the world to us, we should have to sacrifice our dreams just to have both in our world. We can have it ALL. [hr] [/mp_span] [/mp_row]

EVENT: Seminar: How To Create A Tech Pack For Successful Production

Wed, 29 Nov 2017 12:06:35 GMT

Tech Packs are just as important as your pattern and prototype when it comes to development, and for approaching factories with your production order. It's also one of the more confusing items to pull together for many new designers and brands. I will be speaking at the DG Expo in Chicago next week, with Jess Crane, on this very topic. [content_box]

How to Create a Tech Pack for Successful Production

Presented by: Xochil Herrera Scheer and Jess Crane

ABOUT DG EXPO CHICAGO

Come Meet Me at the Show!

I will have a table at the show and would love to meet you! The Chicago Pattern Maker is sharing a table with Jess Crane Design and OnPoint Patterns. The Fashion Group International of Chicago will also have a table, and will be having a drawing for a FREE MEMBERSHIP! FGI is also hosting a holiday party on December 6th from 7-9pm, and playing a video Spring/Summer Trend presentation at 6:15pm. MORE INFO HERE.

PLUS: FREE DOWNLOAD: Sourcing Toolkit from The Chicago Pattern Maker

Questions To Ask Fabric Reps While Sourcing

Sun, 19 Nov 2017 10:26:55 GMT

With Chicago being the latest stop for the multi-city wholesale fabric trade show, DG Expo, I thought it would be a great time to A: Tell you about it because you should definitely attend! And B: Review some questions to ask fabric reps when you attend trade shows and are sourcing fabric for your brand. Whether your company is brand new or you have many seasons or even years under your belt, sourcing is a task that never ends. There is constantly new development from textile mills, trends change, and of course you want to design with new materials and give your customers new options to shop! BONUS: At the end of this post, I have a FREE Sourcing Toolkit available, just for you!

1. Introduce yourself and tell them what you are making.

Many newer designers try to keep their products a secret, but the truth is, the fabric supplier (and your pattern maker, design team, and factory partners) are not in the business of being your competitor. The fabric rep wants to sell you fabric, and they can help you best if they know what market and end product the fabric is intended for. You don't have to share your specific designs, but being able to tell them, "I'm making an evening dress," or, "I'm making a hunting jacket," or, "I'm making a technical pant for cross-fit athletes," is very helpful to them. They can make proper recommendations, or help guide you if you choose something that might not work well for the purpose you intend. That said, having your sketches or photos on hand is not a bad idea!

2. What is the price, MOQ, and do they sell sample yardage?

If you are a new company, you will want to work with companies that have low minimums, usually 20-100 yards, and offer sample yardage as low as 5-10 yards. MOQ = Minimum Order Quantity.

3. Is there a surcharge or different pricing for sample yardage?

Sometimes a company will sell sample yardage, less than their production minimum, but the cost per yard is $7 instead of $5, or they might charge a cutting fee such as $50 in order to sell you less.

4. If the minimum is "1 roll" - how many yards is on a roll of this fabric?

Rolls differ based on weight, so it's good practice to confirm how many yards on on the roll - 50? 80? 100?

5. Is this a stock item, made to order, and is there continuity?

Stock items are things that the vendor keeps in stock on a regular basis, meaning re-orders should be easy for you. Made to order items will usually have a longer lead time, or may have a higher minimum order each time you re-order. Continuity means it's something you can get again. Mills typically have continuity; Jobbers (or fabric re-sellers) typically don't. That's not necessarily a bad thing, you just need to know if this fabric is limited or not so you can design and plan for sales and inventory accordingly.

6. Where does it ship from? How long does it take to receive after I place my order?

Knowing whether the fabric is being shipped from New York or South Carolina vs. China or Mexico is important, as you will be responsible for the shipping costs. Keep this in mind when calculating your product pricing, to add in shipping costs as applicable. It might make your cost per yard $0.50 higher, or it might be more significant. Also keep in mind, if it is being shipped from overseas, you should plan ahead and try to ship by boat rather than air if that's an option, since it will usually save money. Find out what the ship lead time is, regardless of where it comes from, so you can plan your production timeline accordingly.

7. What are the payment terms?

Typically, as a smaller company, or a new customer, you should expect to pay in full for everything. Established customers may be extended credit terms where you can pay a deposit and balance after delivery. Find out if they take credit cards, or if you need to send a check or wire transfer. Now that you've found out some basic information from the vendor, and have perused their collection of fabrics and materials, gather your notes and order swatches so you can review your options at home. Ask to take photos, which will help you remember everything you saw. It's easy to forget after a day at a trade show, seeing many materials and vendors, what you saw and what you liked best. Take a photo of your order form and/or take note of item numbers, content, color options that you requested. That way you are able to easily follow up with the vendor once you receive your swatches. Make sure the fabric headers indicate the item number, fiber content, and weight. If not, ask. Some more questions you might ask:

8. Does this come in other colors, or can I customize the color? If so, what is the MOQ and cost?

Often times the headers will show all colors the fabric is available in, sometimes you will need to ask. Depending on the mill, you might be able to order a custom color, but do expect a higher MOQ and cost for a custom item vs. one of their in-stock color programs.

9. Do you offer this as PFD?

PFD means Prepared for Dye, and is a good thing to ask if you plan to dye the fabric yourself or at a dye house, or if you plan to sublimate or print on your fabric after you purchase it.

10. Do you have this material in another weight?

Sometimes you'll fall in love with a material's hand feel, texture and color options... but it's too lightweight for the leggings you intend to make with it. Sometimes vendors will have a similar material (same content and structure), but in a heavier weight that is more appropriate for your product. It's always best to ask!

Fabric Show TIP:

Bring your business cards! If your business card does not have your mailing address printed on it, I suggest printing out some mailing labels with your name/company and mailing address, which will save you time from filling out this information over and over again. If you have a UPS or FedEx account, it's good to have this number on hand (save it in your phone notes), as sometimes vendors will want you to cover the shipping charges, and this makes it easier for all. If you don't have one, I highly recommend registering for an account. You'll just need to link it to your credit or debit card. Remember to instruct the vendor, to ship with the cheapest method, unless you are actually in a hurry for some reason. Some vendors ship on their dime, which is nice too.

Preparation is KEY.

Sometimes reps are weary of smaller designers and start-up's, so the more organized you are, the better. Asking good questions will give them more confidence in doing business with you. You aren't as likely to encounter this at a show like DG, since it is geared towards low-minimum orders, and therefore they work with smaller companies (and are used to some people coming unprepared), but it's still best to start off your new relationship on the right foot. Trust me, they will appreciate this!

FREE DOWNLOAD: Sourcing Toolkit from The Chicago Pattern Maker

Check out this FREE toolkit I created for taking notes as you source new vendors and materials. Also helpful for post-show follow-up and to keep all your sourcing information organized during development. If you have any other questions related to fabric sourcing, please leave a comment!

ABOUT DG EXPO CHICAGO

PLUS: Come Meet Me at the Show!

RECAP: Kansas City Fashion Event & Tours

Mon, 23 Oct 2017 00:35:01 GMT

I recently made a trip to Kansas City to speak about tech packs, pattern making and fashion production, alongside Jess Crane (Jess Crane Design), Laura Treas (Kansas City Sewing Company) and Mark Brown (Law Offices of Mark Brown, LLC - Specializing in Patents and Trademarks). We spent a full day diving deeper into various topics and answering questions from designers and entrepreneurs from varying levels of experience, helping them to make their businesses more professional and preparing them to work with sewing contractors for their production needs. On the Friday evening before the event, we attended a networking event and met with some local designers and got to meet with Tom Krebs and see the fabric line from Carr Textile. Carr was a pretty nice line to see, and great for small companies since they have no minimum orders! Saturday morning for the Mastering Fashion Production seminar, I presented with Jess Crane to 12 designers who came from Kansas City, as well as other areas of Kansas and Missouri, and even a couple from Omaha, Nebraska.

On Sunday, we spent some time with Sarah Nelsen and Ami Beck (Dolyn Bags) over at their studio spaces at the old Livestock Exchange Building, right next to Stockyards Brewing Co. Sarah and Ami had attended our seminar the previous day and know Laura through FGI. We also got to peek in and meet Alice from Owl + Mouse Textile Design. Check out some quick videos of the Studio Tours on Instagram Stories. Next, Sarah took us on a Behind the Scenes tour of an amazing store/studio called Asiatica Kansas City. She showed us how vintage kimonos were deconstructed, sorted by color, carefully pieced together before cutting new patterns from, and sewn together by their expert production team. The studio space was so impressive, and I love the concept behind recycling and re-purposing these amazing and beautiful kimonos into modern and artful clothing pieces. [caption id="attachment_2867" align="aligncenter" width="768"] Sarah shows us how the vintage kimonos are pieced together, matching the patterns and avoiding damaged areas.[/caption] And a quick video tour of the Studio Space at Asiatica. After this weekend trip, I am sure I will make another trip to Kansas City, especially now that I know a few gems in the design and fashion industry are here! I'm thankful to have met Laura through Fashion Group International during our Regional Directors Conferences, and having the opportunity to help plan this great event. I'm looking forward to meeting more people and seeing clients at the upcoming DG Expo in Chicago on December 6th and 7th. I'm also so excited to be working on behalf of FGI Chicago to partner with DG Expo to put on a Holiday Party and networking event on December 6th. More details to come soon!

The "Project Runway Effect"

Tue, 12 Sep 2017 00:01:57 GMT

This idea has been on my mind for the last couple weeks, in part because of a few different but related, recent conversations with clients and potential clients, and in part because it's NYFW, and the glamorous side of the business is on full display. The concept behind what I call, the "Project Runway Effect," is that so many people have this idea that creating garments and starting a fashion design company is a lot easier, or really a lot FASTER than it really is.

Some of this is the fault of shows like this, and some is the fault of the Fast Fashion industry, and consumers are conditioned to see fashions go immediately from the runway to the stores. It appears that these beautiful designs are created overnight -- and they do on screen -- but what people don't see is how designing ONE single garment for a model is vastly different from designing and developing a garment, or a full collection, for mass production. I think a lot of people just don't realize how much goes into each garment before it is ready to be sewn in a factory or sold at retail.

Starting a fashion business is hard work, and it doesn't happen overnight. That doesn't mean you shouldn't start your business! Just know, that like any other business, it's not easy, and unlike some other types of business, fashion is a very front-loaded investment. Before you can start selling and making money on your designs, there's a lot that goes into the development of your products. You need to allocate the right budget and adequate time to get it right. You have one opportunity to impress your customers, rushing through the process, or deciding to put something into production before it's ready, just isn't a good idea!

My advice for using your time well:

1. DON'T try to speed through the development phase.

A good rule of thumb for design and development, is to follow the standard timeline of 12 months. It's September, and most clients are now designing for Fall 2018. Some clients, who are established and more nimble in their development cycles, are designing for Spring 2018. Yet, I will still get a few requests for people who want to work on Holiday 2017. Unless you are working at a very small scale, already established in the market, this is a bad idea. Think about when holiday sales start: October and November. Back out a few weeks for production, and your product/s should already be done by now, not at the beginning stages. Taking a longer time, 12-18 months, for the first collection, is not uncommon. There's a lot more than just the clothes themselves to think about. Don't beat yourself up trying to rush through it, and do it right!

2. DO know that a perfect fit takes time.

I generally say that it's common to expect about 3 revisions on a particular style before you are ready for production. This is very general. I've had products that were ready in only two; these are typically non-fitted garments, or variations of existing patterns (blocks) that a the brand had from a past season, or basic items such as t-shirts or sweatshirts. I've also had styles that were much more involved, or involve a technology or functional element that takes more time to get it right. Sometimes designers try a fabric only to find when it sews up that they want to change it to something else, or the design evolves, each of which cause the development process to take longer. The closer an item fits to the body, the more time it will take to get the fit perfected. Designing swimwear or sports bras? These will take more time and more small tweaks than designing a t-shirt or a loose fitting jacket. The revisions are likely to be small each time, but any adjustment can domino into a new adjustment.

3. DON'T take fit to the extreme.

Once a client asked me, "at what point are we making a custom item for our fit model, vs. making sure the fit is right for the masses?" That was a great question, and one that many don't stop to think about. I've found especially in the cases where clients have appointed themselves as the fit model (more on why I don't recommend this), that they have a harder time being objective enough to say "this fits well" vs. continuing to tailor and tweak it so that it fits ONLY them. As a seasoned pattern maker, I will advise against changes that I feel don't make sense or, but ultimately I do listen to my clients, and I want to help them achieve the vision that they are going for. Fit is so subjective at a certain point, and different people have different opinions on what fits well. It's best to seek out some objective feedback.

4. DON'T worry if you have additional tweaks once you start working with your factory.

Your factory may suggest small ways to tweak the pattern, the marker, or the sewing in order to make you a better product. It may be because of the way their machines are calibrated, or attachments they may have or need (such as a folder); adjusting a marker because they will block fuse patterns or cut bias trim separately to improve your yield; or it may be to achieve the best order of operations, they need do put something together differently to be more efficient and therefore cost effective for you. This is not something to be discouraged by, and in fact is a good sign of a positive factory relationship.

5. DO love your end product!

It's important that you're happy with your product, and that you're excited to sell it! To me, it's better to delay your product launch by a week or two so that you can have one last fitting, or make those small changes after reviewing your factory's sample. With so many brands to choose from, making your best impression with consumers is extremely important.

Remember, we're on the same TEAM.

I want your products to look great and perform the way they should, just as much as you do! I take great pride in my work, and won't compromise by accepting a rushed project if I don't think I can provide the best results. Let's do us both a favor, and plan ahead with a time line that works for you and not against you. If you need help in planning your development calendar, please reach out!

4 Reasons to Hire a Professional Fit Model

Tue, 08 Aug 2017 01:00:14 GMT

Beyond design, the fit of a garment is probably the most important element to consider in the product development process. I have worked with many different clients and different market segments, and sample sizes, and have to say that those who hire professional models have a better experience and often times faster time arriving at their final approved fit sample. Clients provide their own fit models, according to their target market. Some clients opt to be their own fit model (not recommended in most cases!), or enlist a willing friend to help. However, there are four main reasons I recommend working with an agency and hiring a professional model. I asked my friend Bridget Halanski, Runway Director at MP Factor, to share some insight on working with an agency to book fit models. In this post I talk mainly about female models, but agencies also represent male models, and even children. So no matter who your brand is designed for, you can benefit from working with a professional.

1. They know what to do.

Your model is a professional. She will arrive on time, prepared to work, and as a result, you will be more efficient. Bridget shares that "these models are seasoned professionals who are extremely experienced with fit and showroom work—they know how to move/show the garments, give insight if asked, and act as live mannequins in sales meetings or presentations with buyers. They come looking polished with hair and makeup ready, and any shoe or wardrobe brings the client requests (including underpinnings and a neutral manicure and pedicure so not to distract from the clothing)." This is their job, every day. They are used to getting dressed quickly, secure with their bodies, and aware of how they are standing and moving in order to show the garment properly, as well as comfortable being pinned for tailoring and revisions. It's standard to take quick snapshots or even short video to document the fittings, so even if you aren't sharing or publishing those images, it's helpful when the model has a fresh, clean look. Note: if you do plan to share any images, do check with your agent about usage guidelines, or if there is an additional fee for publishing on certain platforms, etc.

2. It's their job to maintain their size.

"Booking fit models with an agency is a seamless process. Primarily, their measurements and sizes specified in their online portfolio are accurate and current, unlike a freelance “model” or friend of the designer, that can fluctuate." Bridget notes. Let me tell you, there's nothing more frustrating than making pattern and sample revisions, and finding out at the next fitting that the revisions need to be redone because the model's measurements changed. And if it's your friend, it makes for an awkward conversation when you need to bring that to their attention. Professional models need to maintain their size and physique to book jobs, so they remain consistent between fittings. On that note, it's also important that you work with the same model for each fitting, so there are no other variables to worry about when reviewing your prototypes.

3. You can "shop", and choose a model who best fits your brand's target market.

It's a common misconception that agencies only represent "one size" for models, that everyone is a typical runway sample size 2 or 4. There are a variety of models represented, including plus, petite, athletic build, even different age groups. You'll be able to tell your agent what sizing or measurement specs you are looking for. Bridget explains the process: "once you specify height, size or measurements and type (including age or ethnic preference), the agent sends you a customized link of online portfolios to choose from. You can then request to see them in person for a casting to measure them and get a feel for their personality, or you can book directly." If this is your first time working with a professional model, or you are working on your first collection, setting up a casting call to meet several models before making your decision is a great idea. You may end up loving your fit model so much you decide to incorporate them into your product photography, meetings with buyers, or events that you participate in!

4. You will be more objective as you review the garments.

It's very hard to evaluate the overall look and fit of something you are wearing yourself, and be objective. We are our own worst critics! Does a sleeve look too tight, or are you just self conscious about your arms? If you use a friend, it might be hard to critique the garment without hurting your friend's feelings. Looking at the garment on a model who represents your market is best so you can evaluate the fit, see how the fabric behaves as it hangs on the body or moves while in motion. Now you understand the benefits of hiring a professional model, and yes, it does come at a price. Fit models typically have a 2-hour minimum, though models can also be booked for half day or full day if needed. In addition to the model's rate, you will pay a standard 20% agency fee for their services, plus travel reimbursement if applicable. What's great about an agency though, is your model is accountable to more than just you. If you enlist a friend or book your own model off a social media site or list serve, and they don't show up, you get no model. With an agent involved, she will get in touch with the model to confirm the job, if the model is late or a no-show, you are likely to get a reduced rate or replacement model with similar measurements. To book a job, you'll need to provide your standard contact and billing information, date/time and number of hours needed, location and parking information, any hair and makeup directive, and items to wear or bring (such as nude or seamless undergarments, black or nude heels, etc.). Indicate your criteria for your model including bust, waist, hip measurements, dress size, approximate height/weight, and any preferences you may have as to age, ethnicity, body type. I work closely with Factor|Chosen and Stewart Talent, where I am also represented as an On-Set Tailor. Many modeling or talent agencies will have a division where you can choose a model who will be the right fit for your brand. If you are interested in working with Factor|Chosen or Stewart Talent, please contact Bridget Halanski for more information on booking: bridget@mp-factor.com

EVENT: Mastering Fashion Production

Sat, 15 Jul 2017 22:24:28 GMT

I'm proud to share that I'll be traveling to Kansas City on October 7th to join Jess Crane and Maria Behnen as a speaker for the seminar series, Mastering Fashion Production, put on by Laura Treas of Kansas City Sewing Company. I look forward to sharing information about working with your pattern maker, types of prototypes and why tech packs are so important for successful production.

WHEN:

Sat, October 7, 2017 9:30 AM – 2:30 PM CDT

WHERE:

Johnson County Community College 12345 College Boulevard Regnier Building Overland Park, KS 66210

TICKETS: Eventbrite

PRESS: Ever After in Chicago SPLASH

Mon, 15 May 2017 19:15:58 GMT

This is probably one of my favorite custom projects I've ever worked on. My friend, stylist Jessi Sheehan, introduced me to the bride, Sarah Novosad, who wanted something fun and different for her upcoming wedding. Anything but traditional, which is totally up my alley because I don't really "do" bridal. Sarah shared her inspiration image, and I was in love too. Enter 10 yards of gold lame fabric, shoulder pads, and a nod to bridal elements from the past -- pointed sleeves, button back -- and together we designed and I created this amazing wedding ~~gown~~ costume. The result is stunning. Chicago SPLASH included a feature about Sarah's wedding details in their 5/7/2017 issue: See more at: Chicago SPLASH

NEW! Upgraded Services and Site

Mon, 17 Jul 2017 09:40:47 GMT

Welcome friends! My new logo, look and feel of my website has been a LONG time in the making, and I'm so excited to launch this and share with you! I had taken a long time off from regular blog posts and site updates over the last TWO years, all the time still busy working with clients and other activities.

Allow me to take this opportunity to catch you up and re-introduce myself! 2017 is already half over, and it's been a whirlwind working as The Chicago Pattern Maker, which is my #1 love outside of my family: my almost 2 year old daughter Eva Jean, and husband Tim. In addition to running around after an active toddler,

I am currently serving as Co-Regional Director for Fashion Group International of Chicago. Although I keep myself very busy, I enjoy every minute of it. Honestly. Even when it sometimes means late nights, or working on an occasional Saturday. I love working with designers and brands on their patterns and product development, and I really love when I can share a new resource or skill with someone that helps them in their business. Which brings me to share my goals for my blog going forward.

I plan to write two posts each month, sharing with you snippets of my work and the teachable moments that occur, as well as sharing resources whether they be material vendors, upcoming events or trade shows, or recommending books or articles that I have enjoyed recently. In addition to my re-branding, I'm also very happy to share that what started as a reach-goal for the end of the year, is now a reality: I have upgraded my pattern services to digital, with my recent purchase of StyleCAD pattern design software. This will create more efficiency for my clients and allow for faster turn around on projects, particularly with revisions between prototypes. I can also easily send files to factories and other CAD service providers.

With that, I am excited to embark on this new chapter with my company, and am looking forward to the journey ahead. I hope you'll join me, and I look forward to working with you!

Special THANK YOU! to the team of amazing people who helped me with this re-branding journey:

Branding & Social Media Strategist: Alex Duffy Web Programmer: Derek McKenzie - McScheer Group Graphic Design: Jessi Adrignola Prop Stylist: Amanda Wolfson Productions Photography: Christopher Macsurak

Stuff I'm Working On

Wed, 04 Nov 2015 21:25:00 GMT

TIP: Always compare the technical specifications to the pattern.

PRESS: FGI Chicago #MemberMonday Feature

Mon, 19 Oct 2015 20:11:51 GMT

I am honored to be featured today by Fashion Group International of Chicago's #MemberMonday spotlight!

PRESS: Avoid Headaches in Business with Canvy's Bag Company (Maker's Row)

Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:12:25 GMT

Since I work in the "background" with my clients' brands, it's always nice to get a shout out. Product development is very much a collaborative process, and my client Brennan Waldorf of Canvy's Bag Company nailed that in this blog for Maker's Row! I worked with Brennan on his production patterns, tech packs and pre-production samples, as well as some sourcing for the appropriate thread, interlining and interfacing for his structured travel bags. Read more: https://makersrow.com/blog/2016/01/a-bag-designers-insight-3-ways-to-avoid-headaches-in-business/ Check out Canvy's website here: www.canvysbagco.com/ Stay tuned for their upcoming Kickstarter campaign!

Using Technology for a Faster Garment Fit Process

Mon, 14 Mar 2016 16:03:17 GMT

I recently met Lacey Bell from Fire Fly Line through an event with Fashion Group International of Chicago. Her company offers 3D prototyping for apparel and sewn products, and I was interested to find out more, so we met for lunch so she could give me some information and a software demo. This tool is such a compliment to the traditional pattern and sample development process. While it doesn't eliminate the need for fabric samples completely, it's a great way to try new things with existing patterns and get more bang for your buck. I know many of my clients could benefit from this, especially when testing design iterations such as changing fabrics (or colors), hem length, sleeve or neckline variations, etc. In essence, you can see and test samples before making cutting into different fabrics, and save some time and cost. Read some tips for creating a faster garment fit process and how 3D prototyping can benefit you. I shared one of my tips in here too! http://www.fireflyline.com/blog/ideas-for-a-faster-garment-fit-process

Stuff I'm Working On

Mon, 29 Jun 2015 20:40:20 GMT

Lovely Lace: Working on a bridal dress for a casual outdoor wedding.

Stuff I'm Working On

Wed, 29 Apr 2015 20:24:06 GMT

Love making things from pretty materials for clients. Like this hand painted and embroidered silk chiffon.

Stuff I'm Working On

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 21:18:00 GMT

Making corrections to this jacket pattern.

TIP: Always square all corners.

Cutting Samples

Mon, 10 Feb 2014 18:49:55 GMT

Cutting out samples for a compression short.

EVENT: Speaking at Chicago Textile Expo 2015

Fri, 01 May 2015 22:43:23 GMT

In just a few short weeks, I will be speaking with my friend and colleague Jessica Crane at the upcoming Chicago Textile Expo, hosted by Fine Fabric Sales showroom. We have been invited to speak again, and this time our presentation will be about Tech Packs, which are a must-have in the sewn products business. Many newer designers don't know how important this tool is! We will be discussing the many components that make up a tech pack and what you need for a successful production run. The seminar will take place on Monday June 1, 2015 at 1:00pm. The Chicago Textile Expo runs on Monday June 1 and Tuesday June 2. In addition to the seminars and access to wholesale fabric and trim vendors, there will be an industry networking event on Monday evening. Come say "hello!"

To see the seminar schedule and to sign up, visit: www.chicagotextileexpo.com

Pantone Color Report - Fall 2015

Thu, 12 Feb 2015 06:38:38 GMT

The color report for Fall 2015 is out! Check it out at Pantone.com. I'm loving the color Marsala.

Fashion and Fabric Technology

Wed, 14 Jan 2015 21:20:47 GMT

Technology has obviously influenced our lives and fashion in many ways. But besides actual gadgets, how else is technology incorporated into clothing and textiles? In this article from Business of Fashion, fashion technologist, Dr. Amanda Parkes is interviewed on the subject of wearable technology: http://www.businessoffashion.com/2014/11/amanda-parkes-wearable-tech-gadgets.html Wearable fiber technologies include many properties: waterproof, glow-in-the-dark, odor resistance, anti-microbial, temperature control and temperature sensitive or reactive materials. Some of these are not new, but I mention them as they go along with this expanding field of fiber technology. Many active wear and performance companies are using these types of materials in their products already. Thermo-reactive doesn't need to bring back memories of hypercolor: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/why-hypercolor-t-shirts-were-just-a-one-hit-wonder-3353436/?no-ist Now, companies like Sommers Plastics and HSD Zipper have modern thermo-chromatic technologies available. Columbia Sportswear has the patented Omni-Heat Reflective technology built into many of their outerwear coats, shoes and accessories, which reacts to your body's heat and reflects it back to you, keeping you warmer in the cold. http://www.columbia.com/technology-omniheatreflective/ http://gearjunkie.com/columbia-turbodown-insulation-jacket Combining water proofing with breathable material in one fabric? Check out materials from AKAS Textiles and Kendor. Textile shows are a great way to find out about the latest and greatest materials and technologies that companies are making. This month, TexWorld USA will be in New York January 19-21. For more information, visit their website.

Just for Fun: Zamrie Love

Mon, 01 Dec 2014 22:18:05 GMT

Just for fun, and to show my love for this awesome local label, ZAMRIE. I recently participated in a photoshoot for their new limited edition scarf collection, made from Italian knit fabric. Here's a few of my favorite shots, by Kirsten Miccoli: You can get yours here: zamrie.com/collections/scarves

TAMGTL: Tailored by Tradlands

Fri, 12 Dec 2014 21:00:33 GMT

I teamed up with my friend Amy at The American Made Guide to Life for this guest blog entry, Tailored by Tradlands. I reviewed the up and coming women's shirting company, Tradlands, and spotlighted a couple of my favorite American-made brands in this fall photo shoot.

Tailored by Tradlands

Today's post is another from my friend, Xochil. She's got a killer fashion sense and is deeply committed to American clothing manufacturing, especially in her hometown of Chicago. She has some great insight as an insider in the fashion industry and will likely be contributing every now and then. I recently wrote about tailored shirts for men, but what about for women? Sure, finding any old button-up shirt is pretty easy, but finding one that fits really well and doesn’t have the dreaded “boob gap” (even without a large bust), is much harder. I can’t remember exactly how I found out about them originally, either through a #ff on Twitter or Instagram, but either way, I’m so happy to have found Tradlands! Tradland’s vision is to provide menswear inspired, functional and well-tailored shirts for women. After going back and forth between a few fabric choices, I landed on this fun, multi-colored plaid called Vacationland. I ordered my first shirt in early October, and immediately fell in love. First of all, the package was clearly put together with a great deal of care. I appreciated the lovely hand written thank you note from the founder, Sadie. A few days later I received an email checking in with me to make sure I was happy with my purchase. Love the personal touch and attention! Back to the shirt though. I like to call it, relaxed yet refined. It’s like a great “boyfriend” shirt, but that was actually made just for you! Even though I’m small, I have struggled to find a really nice fitting button down, and after wearing this one a few times, I’m super happy with the fit. Like I mentioned, the chest fit is great, and the placement of buttons ensures the right coverage. The sleeves are just a touch longer than the average shirt, so they still look “full length” when bending your arms. The material is also nice and soft, and easy to care for – just throw in the wash and cool dry. The buttons are double tacked, so I don’t fear losing a button. Although if I do, Tradlands will send you a replacement free of charge! I’ve worn my shirt a few different ways this fall already, with jeans, leggings, skirts; layered with a sweater or an American Apparel Henley, or just on its own. I paired it with my favorite sateen twill AG’s and booties for this fall shoot. I can’t wait to purchase my next Tradlands shirt! I’ve been eying Amy’s “Arapahoe” flannel shirt, and also really like the “Robie.” [Spoiler alert: I bought the Robie and Brunswick at the recent Northern Grade pop-up shop in Brooklyn.] OUTFIT DETAILS Shirt: Tradlands Vacationland (sold out; Tradlands Brunswick is similar) / Pants: AG Jeans Sateen Stilt in Dark Charcoal / Earrings by K. Amato / Necklace: vintage / Shoes: not Made in USA. Xochil Herrera Scheer works as a Product Development Pattern Maker and Production Manager for various brands as a freelancer in Chicago. She is very interested in all aspects of the development and manufacturing process, and is passionate about companies and products Made in USA. Xochil is an active member of the local fashion community, and serves on the board of Fashion Group International of Chicago. In her spare time she enjoys reading, sewing, shopping and Instagram-ing.

RECAP: More 2014 Fashion Focus Chicago Events

Mon, 24 Nov 2014 04:48:29 GMT

Fashion Focus Chicago is always a crazy week if you're in the industry... after Tuesday's Town Hall kick-off event, the rest of the week was filled with shows and events. I attended the Sanford-Brown University's student fashion show on Wednesday evening, with my husband. The student show is always fun to watch, and see what new and creative ideas they are experimenting with. I'm also on the Academic Advisory Board for the fashion program at the school, so it's a little personal as well. The show was held at the Cultural Center, and I have to say, a better show than last year's event! The theme was pop art, so models wore colorful wigs and held up comic signs reading things like "Pop!", "Wham!", etc. Very fun. Thursday evening I attended the AIBI Open House, visiting my good friend, designer Lauren Lein, who sells in the Made in Chicago store that AIBI has in the heart of the Magnificent Mile shopping district. I also met a few new faces, and saw my friends Flo and Diana from Fine Fabric Sales. The StyleChicago.com's Art of Fashion show at Millennium Park is the big event of the week, held on Friday, and was not one to miss. My husband again came to check out my world of fashion, and we had a fun time. The show was fantastic and featured 12 designers. My favorites were Shernett Swaby (whose dress I wore that night), and Voyeur by Vex. Saturday and Sunday are more low-key, but the week is definitely not over yet! StyleChicago.com had their annual FashionChicago Designer Shopping event in the tent, and Northern Grade also hosted their shopping event in another tent on the other side of the park. I enjoyed checking out both events, and got a head start on my Christmas shopping. At Northern Grade, I got to visit a few friends (Glass House Shirt Makers and Stock Manufacturing), and learn about some new companies. We also ended up purchasing a great wool jacket for my husband from Tradition Creek, where I also picked up a pair of deerskin mittens for myself for future snowmobiling trips this year.

Xochil

Case Studies

Chicago's Pop-Up Garment District is Returning!

Xochil Nominated for ISAIC Honors 2026

Press: SEAMS elects officers, board members

SEAMS elects officers, board members; Brent Jones voted in as president

Season of Lights - December 2025 "X-Files"

PRESS: "Emerging Technologies Conference - Advanced Textiles Expo 2025"

Emerging Technologies Conference - Advanced Textiles Expo 2025

Presenters encourage attendees to try AI

Audience, panelists share ideas on using AI

Biomaterial give value to waste products

Infrared-responsive textile introduced

Microplastics testing, standards, laws still nascent

PRESS: "Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC and Printsource Will Bridge Innovation, Education and Design for Winter 2026"

EVENT: Advanced Textiles Expo 2025

How to Evaluate Your Prototype and Prepare for a Fit Session

PRESS: Xochil Interviewed for Overtime Clothing's "Sourcing Spotlight"

Sourcing Spotlight: The Chicago Pattern Maker

EVENT: Tech Pack Workshop with Xochil at Texworld NYC January 2026

What You'll Learn

Key Takeaways

Stitching Together a Movement - August 2025 "X-FILES"

EVENT: Industrial Stitching 101 Workshop with Xochil

EVENT: Xochil Speaking at 2025 SPESA Executive Conference

EVENT: 2025 SPESA Executive Conference in Chicago

PODCAST: The Fabric of America - Episode 43

Yes, it CAN be Made in America!

The Connective Threads - June 2025 "X-FILES"

See the showcase come together

Yes, We Can - April 2025 "X-FILES"

PRESS: Xochil & Columbia College Chicago Collaboration - Featured on ABC 7 Chicago News

Announcing SEAMS "Supply Chain USA Showcase" at Texprocess Americas

TEXPROCESS 2025

WE’D LOVE TO WORK WITH YOU!

XOCHIL IS A PROUD MEMBER OF THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

Still at the show? Xochil will be participating in the following Texprocess Tech Talks - we’d love to see you there!

DID WE MISS YOU? SEND US AN EMAIL AT INFO@XOCHIL.COM!

EVENT: Texprocess Americas 2025

PRESS: Where Fit Meets Function - A New Era In Women's Protective Gear (Specialty Fabrics Review, ATA)

Designing the Future - February 2024 "X-Files"

Winter Whispers of Optimism - February 2025 "X-FILES"

PHOTO: XOCHIL AT SEAMS BOOTH AT TEXWORLD NYC WINTER 2025 EDITION

PHOTO: TEXWORLD NYC - EXHIBITOR PITCH STAGE - "SEAMS: SOURCING YOUR USA SUPPLY CHAIN START TO FINISH"

PHOTOS: Meeting People at Texworld NYC - SEAMS Booth

RECAP: Texworld NYC 2025

Closing 2024 With Reflection And Vision For The Future - December 2024 "X-FILES"

RECAP: Chicago Fashion Week 2024

The Made In America Resistance Is Now - October 2024 "X-FILES"

Apparel Mentor

BENEFITS OF COMPLETING THE APPAREL MENTOR PROGRAM

Foundational Knowledge

Sourcing and Manufacturing

Problem Solving and Decision Making

Continuous Improvement

Why do we trust The Apparel Mentor?

“GET IT MADE” by The Apparel Mentor’s Mindy Martell

EVENT: Join Us at the Milwaukee Pop Up Garment District!

RECAP: Techtextil North America 2024

Can’t Get Enough of that Alphabet Soup - August 2024 "X-FILES"

PRESS: Xochil in SPESA's 'Behind The Seams' - LA Manufacturing Technology + Tukatech Interview with Ram Sareen

SEAMS Gatherings: More Than a Feeling - June 2024 "X-FILES"

EVENT: Advanced Textiles Expo 2024

EVENT: Techtextil North America 2024

RECAP: SPESA Advancements in Manufacturing & Technology

Tukatech – At The Intersection of Innovation & Collaboration - April 2024 "X-FILES"

Tukatech – at the intersection of innovation & collaboration

PRESS: My experience at Women In Textiles Summit in one word: Amazing! (E-Textile Communications)

EVENT: DuPage Countywide Institute Day - Keynote Speaker

RECAP: Women in Textiles Summit - Making Great Things Panel

PRESS: Xochil joins SEAMS Association Board of Directors

SEAMS announces 2024 board of directors

2023 Reflections - December 2023 "X-FILES"

2023 Reflections

RECAP: SEAMS Fall Conference: Closing The Loop - Circularity Through Collaboration

SEAMS' Networking Conference Passes The 'Vibe Check - October 2023 "X-FILES"

SEAMS’ Networking Conference passes the ‘vibe check’

Open Your Doors - Welcome Opportunities - August 2023 "X-FILES"

Texprocess Americas 2023 Recap – June 2023 "X-FILES"

Texprocess Americas 2023: A Showcase of Innovation, Collaborative Insights, and Unforgettable Experiences

Texprocess Americas 2023: A Showcase of Innovation, Collaborative Insights, and
Unforgettable Experiences