My summer travels around Asia have come to an end, and I flew back to the States from Beijing on Saturday.  While WWW and I spent 9 days in Thailand and 4 days in Taipei on vacation, Beijing was “home” for the rest of my seven weeks here, making this trip the longest stint I’ve spent in China since I was living in Shanghai in 2009-2010.

During my time in China this summer, I often found myself talking to fellow expats about our favorite cities in the country and Shanghai came up again and again.  It’s funny because when I was living there I couldn’t have felt more different.  I remember when I first found out I would be teaching kindergartners in Shanghai I was devastated.  I’d hoped to be teaching at the university level somewhere in the provinces where I thought my Chinese would improve at a much faster rate.

Making snowman decorations for Christmas with my kindergartners.

While it’s true that living outside of Shanghai would likely have been much better in terms of language acquisition, I now realize it was such a blessing that I ended up where I did for my year of teaching in China.  Shanghai is truly a great city for expats.

Busy streets of Shanghai from the road.

Having traveled to and spent time in many of China’s major cities–Shanghai, Beijing, Chengdu, Kunming, Xi’an, Nanjing, Guangzhou, etc.– I now see what all the fuss is about regarding Shanghai.  However, while Shanghai is often praised by expats, it isn’t nearly as popular with tourists.  It’s true the city doesn’t have Beijing’s many historic sites, Chengdu’s amazing food, Xi’an’s famous warriors, or Guangzhou’s proximity to Hong Kong.  However, it is a very livable city, and even without the Great Wall, the Terracotta Warriors,  or the giant panda, there is plenty to do.  So, here are some of my favorite things to see and experience in Shanghai as an either a tourist or an expat.

The Bund and Pudong

View of Pudong Skyscrapers from The Bund.

This view is probably what Shanghai is most famous for and the image that comes to mind for those who have never traveled to the city.  The photo above was taken while The Bund (the waterfront path along the Huangpu River) was under renovation in 2009, but this construction was completed several years ago in time for the 2010 World Expo.

The Bund is always crowded with locals, Chinese tourists, and foreigners, but its views of Pudong (Shanghai’s business district) across the river can’t be beat, especially on a clear and sunny day.  Along the Bund, there are many historic European-style buildings, including former banks, international trading houses, and several consulates.  For a prime spot, M on the Bund‘s afternoon tea from 3-5pm on Saturdays and Sundays is a nice treat.

Observation deck of the World Financial Center.

Across the river from The Bund is Shanghai’s Pudong district which is the home to most of the city’s famous skyscrapers, including the Shanghai World Financial Center.  At the time of its completion in 2008, the SWFC was the second tallest building in the world after Taipei 101 and now ranks #5 on the list of world’s tallest buildings.

View of Pudong from World Financial Center.

While it is fun to walk around Pudong and see the skyscrapers close up, one of my favorite views in Shanghai is from the SWFC’s observation deck.  The observation deck is 474 meters (or over 1500 feet) high and offers 360 degree views of Pudong, the Huangpu River, and Puxi.  However, the pollution in Shanghai can limit visibility a great deal even on a relatively clear day.

Yuyuan

Traditional architecture in Yuyuan juxtaposed with Pudong skyscrapers.

Yuyuan or the Yu Gardens area includes large gardens, the City God Temple, and many shops and restaurants.  This is one of the most crowded and touristy parts of Shanghai, but it is a great place for first time visitors.  The souvenir shops are fun to browse, though prices here are higher than most places in the city.

However, my favorite thing to do in Yuyuan is grab a pot of tea at Huxingting Teahouse which is usually relatively empty and a nice respite from the crowds outside.  This teahouse is right in the center of the Yuyuan Market and accessible via the zigzag bridge that runs through the garden’s pond.

Shanghai’s famous xiaolongbao or soup dumplings.

The teahouse even let friends and I bring in our trays of xiaolongbao (Shanghai’s famous soup dumplings) to enjoy with our tea.  You can buy these in Yuyuan at Nanxiang Mantou, which is often reported as the best place for xiaolongbao in the city.  Nanxiang is directly across the bridge from the teahouse and can usually be identified by the long lines extending along its facade.

French Concession and Tianzifang

During the second half of my teaching contract in Shanghai, I moved to an area of the city known as the French Concession.  One of my favorite parts of living here was the proximity to Tianzifang.  I wrote an entire post about Tianzifang here, and this place continually sticks in my mind as one of my favorite areas for wandering on the weekends.

Tian Zi Fang, also known as Tai Kang Alley, is a constant work-in-progress.  The many narrow cobbled alleyways that make up the area form a labyrinth filled with an ever-increasing and evolving collection of upscale boutiques, restaurants, and galleries dealing in specialty goods.

Tianzifang was originally entirely residential and began undergoing renovation in 2007.  The old Shanghai shikumen architecture of the buildings has been preserved and can be seen on many of the upper levels; however, most of the businesses on the ground floor of these buildings are modern spaces for shops and restaurants catering to upscale and foreign clientele.  Regardless, Tianzifang has maintained its neighborhood feel, and the small winding paths are reminiscent of areas like the Marais in Paris.

Shanghai Museum

Shanghai’s National Museum is pretty great, especially in comparison to other art institutions in the country.  The Museum is just off People’s Square and houses a large collection of ancient Chinese art, along with Ming and Qing Dynasty furniture and art and crafts by China’s ethnic minorities.  Quite a few international traveling exhibitions come through the Shanghai Museum as well; for example, shows featuring holdings from Versailles, the Uffizi, and the Rijksmuseum have been exhibited here.

The square outside the Museum is also a lively place where many Chinese gather in the evenings and on weekends to fly kites or sit and watch the bustle of the city pass by.

City Parks

The amount of green space in Shanghai is quite incredible for such a huge and built up city, and the city’s parks and gardens are my favorite spots to head on sunny weekend afternoons.

You can watch students playing soccer in Xujiahui Park, partake in Chinese line dancing at Fuxing Park, or marvel at the modern marriage market at People’s Park.  Regardless of your preference, there are enough parks in Shanghai to suit nearly every mood.

This is just a taste of some of the charms of Shanghai, a city that continually wins over expats living and China and where tourists can hopefully find some endearing qualities as well.

Have you ever been to Shanghai as a tourist or expat?  What did you think?

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Main entrance of the Stone Forest.

We came to Shilin or the Stone Forest on a day-trip from Kunming where we had flown in the day before.  We were using the latter, which is the capital of Yunnan, as a jumping-off point to explore the rest of the province by train.  But before heading to idyllic Dali, we decided to delay our onward journey one day in order to experience China’s legendary Stone Forest.

Sweeping views of the “forest.”

Shilin is about 120 km or a two-hour bus ride from Kunming, and the path between the two is quite well-trodden by Chinese tourists to Yunnan.  The area is famous for its limestone rock formations that have been shaped over time by wind and rain into tall pillars that give the illusion of a forest turned to stone.  The formations are thought to be around 270 million years old, and the tallest reaches 30 meters high.

The Stone Forest is part of a larger national scenic area that spans 350 square kilometers, and several parts of the site have been awarded the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site.  In addition to the stone formations, there are lakes, caves, and waterfalls.

As we explored, we found that some of the stones are packed so closely together that they create a series of narrow passageways.  Others are bent slightly inward at the top, forming a canopy and blocking out most of the strong sunlight from above.  Just when we’d feel totally submerged in the “forest,” we would emerge from this maze to find sweeping views of the countryside dotted with hundreds or thousands more karsts.

We couldn’t get over some of the views and kept commenting how it looked like we’d been dropped onto the set of Lord of the Rings or some other fantasy film.

The area near the Stone Forest is also home to the Yi and Sani ethnic minorities, and the park hosts daily dance and musical shows where members of these groups perform in traditional costume.

We spent a total of about 2 hours exploring the Stone Forest and watching some of the performances.  Unlike many attractions in China, admission to Shilin is rather steep at 140 RMB (23 USD) per person.  However, for those who find themselves in Kunming looking for something to do, the whimsy and other-worldliness of Shilin make it a worthwhile trip.

Have you encountered such a fantastical place in your travels? Please share in the comments below!

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While this isn’t a comprehensive list, here are a few of my favorite things we did and saw without opening our pocketbooks.

1. Rome’s streets and piazzas

I praised Rome’s streets, alleys, and piazzas as an attraction in and of themselves earlier this week, and one of the best parts of strolling around the city and soaking in the picturesque architecture or more eclectic neighborhoods is that it is absolutely free.

Given that quite of few of Rome’s most famous spots–Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, Campo di Fiori, etc.–are or are in outdoor squares entirely open to the public, you can spend days wandering around without spending a dime.

Trevi Fountain (one of the few shots without tons of heads).

Of course, frequent stops at gelaterias along the way might interfere a bit.

Eating one of the many cups of gelato on this trip.

2. Many of Rome’s cathedrals

According to Wikipedia, there are over 900 churches in Rome.  The city has long been the seat of the Holy See and Catholic papal authority.  Therefore, it is unsurprising that some of the most magnificent and important works of architecture from ancient through modern times are found in Rome’s many churches and cathedrals.  The best part is entering these places of worship is usually absolutely free.

Some of the my favorites are Il Gesu, San Luigi dei Francesi, Santa Maria della Vittoria, and (of course) St. Peter’s Basilica.

Remember that churches aren’t just sacred spaces with beautiful architecture; they also house fantastic works of art.  For example, San Luigi dei Francesi has gorgeous Baroque paintings by Caravaggio in several of its chapels; Santa Maria della Vittoria has Bernini’s famous sculpture St. Theresa in Ecstasy; and, St. Peter’s has Michelangelo’s well-known Pieta sculpture.  While these are open everyday, note that some smaller churches do close for mid-day.

Bernini’s baldacchino at the intersection of the nave and transept in St. Peter’s.

3. The Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of the best preserved sites from ancient Rome.  It was commissioned by Roman general Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Emperor Augustus as a temple dedicated to the all the Roman gods (hence, the name pantheon).

Pantheon from the Piazza Rotunda.

The structure epitomizes classical architecture with its geometric columns, pediment, and dome.  The unreinforced dome, constructed out of concrete, is one of the most innovative aspects of the structure and would revolutionize future architecture.

This was one of our first stops in Rome, and I couldn’t believe we were in a building originally from the 1st century.  Best of all, entering this heavy-hitter is absolutely free!

4. Borghese Gardens

We loved visiting the Borghese Gallery (more on that later), but almost as fantastic as the art on the walls are the expansive gardens that surround the area.  The Borghese Gardens are quite shady and have many walking trails and benches.  We decided to explore the gardens after our visit to the gallery and were entertained by both a jazz band and an accordion player.

While the gallery requires advance tickets, the gardens are free and open to the public.  In our walk around, we saw many Romans out for a jog or playing sports, which made the gardens a nice site of intersection between tourism and local life.

5. Arch of Constantine

While the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill all require tickets, the nearby Arch of Constantine is free to come up and admire.  Built in the 4th century, it is a triumphal arch, meaning that it was erected to commemorate a battle victory of Constantine I.

View of Arch of Constantine from the 3rd tier of the Colosseum.

One of the most interesting aspects about the arch is the use of spolia in its construction.  Spolia, Latin for spoils, is the reuse of images or objects for the construction of a new monument.  For example, the arch uses many reliefs taken from 2nd-century monuments, which sharply contrast with the 4th-century images made for the arch.  The reuse of art can be interpreted in multiple ways as an pragmatic exercise in utility, a statement of triumph over former dynasties, and a revitalization or glorification of the past.

Though Rome isn’t a cheap city by any means, we couldn’t believe just how many famous sites and fun things to do were free.  As travelers used to visiting countries in Asia, the cost of Europe was a bit shocking.  However, saving here and there allowed us to feel not quite so bad about spending more on accommodation and eating out.

What are your favorite free activities to do or sites to visit while traveling?  If you’ve been to Rome, is there anything I should add to this list?

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View of the Colosseum and Arch of Constantine from the street.

When WWW met me later that evening, we managed to pull our jet-lagged selves away from our wonderful hotel for a stroll to an enoteca (wine bar) down the street.  There we had incredible wine (of course!), porchetta, buffalo mozzarella, and goat cheese with honey, truffle oil, and arugula.  However, an even bigger treat awaited us the next day when we got up and hit the streets for a full day of exploring the city.

Exterior of Roman building near the Pantheon.

One of my favorite ways to experience a new city is on foot.  For this reason, I chose a hotel in the the Monti district near the center of town for our stay in Rome, and WWW and I would almost exclusively walk to get from point A to point B during our stay.

Some of my most vivid memories of the trip are strolling along Rome’s streets, and with all of the interesting and beautiful sights and sounds, the many roads, streets, and alleys of Rome are an attraction unto themselves.

Around the Pantheon

The area around the Pantheon quickly became one of my favorite places for walking and taking photos of the quintessentially Italian architecture.  As to be expected, this area is buzzing with people due to the proximity of one of Rome’s major sites.  However, after a few turns down smaller alleys, you can quickly find yourself almost the sole pedestrian on the street.

This area had some of the most picturesque architecture I saw in Rome.  I especially loved the many decorative details, such as the ornate architectural framing that enclosed the painted Madonna above.

Piazza Navona

Piazzas or squares are some of the most beautiful outdoor spaces in Rome.  There are many throughout the city, ranging from small to large and nearly deserted to bustling.

After visiting the Pantheon and walking around the surrounding streets, we headed toward Piazza Navona.  This is one of the most famous piazzas in Rome due to its abundance of  monuments, fountains, and sculptures and its large scale, which mirrors the size of the Stadium of Domitian that the square was built upon.

Piazzas are fantastic locations for people watching, and Piazza Navona was particularly interesting given the large crowds attracted by the numerous vendors and artists that set up in the center of the square.

Rome’s streets are such a delight because you never know what is waiting around the next corner.  On our way between the Piazza Navona and Via Giulia, we stopped in at the Gelateria del Teatro for a cup of raspberry and sage gelato.

Via Giulia

Via Giulia is also in Rome’s historic center and runs along the Tiber River.  The street was part of an urban renewal project initiated by Pope Julius II in the sixteenth century and was partially designed by Donato Bramante, the original architect for the rebuilding of St. Peter’s Basilica.

The street now contains some government buildings, as well as private residences.  I particularly enjoyed the facades of the street’s churches, as well as the archway pictured above.

After heading south and reaching the terminus of the street, it is easy to cross the river via the Ponte Sisto into the Trastevere neighborhood.

Piazza del Popolo

Like Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo is one of the largest and most well-known squares in the city.  We visited on our second day in Rome after a trip to the Borghese Gallery and Gardens, and my favorite view of the Piazza was from the gardens above.

The Piazza is rather sparse in terms of visitors and vendors in comparison to the Piazza Navona.  However, Piazza del Popolo has an interesting history as the former site of both public executions and the northern gate of the Aurelian Walls.  An Egyptian obelisk brought to Rome by Emperor Augustus punctuates the center of the square; however, the majority of the Piazza now follows the Neoclassical style after a redesign in the 19th century.

Spanish Steps

Walking south, down one of the narrow streets away from the Piazza del Popolo, we soon came upon the iconic Spanish Steps.   These 135 steps span one side of the Piazza di Spagna and lead to the Trinita dei Monti cathedral.

The Steps were constructed in the early eighteenth century and designed by two Italian Baroque architects.  Interestingly, French diplomatic monies funded the project to link the Bourbon Spanish Embassy to the Holy See in the Palazzo Monaldeschi below.  Today, they are a great place to sit and watch the world pass by.  However, be prepared for swaths of people.  Even in March (low season for tourists), the Piazza and Steps were one of the most packed places we encountered.

Trevi Fountain

Just north of the Monti district where we were staying lies the Trevi Fountain.  After a failed attempt to check it out our first night in Rome, we made it to the fountain successfully on two other occasions, once at night and once during the day.  Both times there were quite a few people, though during the day it was almost unbearably packed.

Trevi Fountain (one of the few shots without tons of heads).

Despite the crowds, this is one of the most charming sites in Rome and is tucked away in an otherwise quiet part of the city.  We couldn’t resist taking part in the tradition of throwing a couple coins in to ensure our return to Rome!

While most of these places are in Rome’s centro storico (or historic center), we also enjoyed walking around the Prati, Trastevere, and Testaccio neighborhoods.  Whether walking between point A and point B or aimlessly wandering, Rome’s many streets, alleys, and piazzas were an endless source of discovery and a highlight of our trip.

Have you ever been to Rome? What did you think of the city’s streets?  Also, what are your favorite walking cities?

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After living in Shanghai for a month, my first trip outside the city was to Hangzhou in September 2009.  Hangzhou is often described as one of the most beautiful cities in China, and its famous West Lake and many green spaces live up to that reputation.

A fellow English teacher and I arrived by train in the late afternoon.  After settling into our hostel, we walked over to one of Hangzhou’s nearby night markets where we grabbed dinner and explored the many food and souvenir stalls.  Then, we decided to call it an early night and get some rest in preparation for our jam-packed itinerary the next day.

Lingyin Temple

Our first stop the next morning was the Lingyin Temple about 2 km outside the city.  This massive complex (known as the Lingyin Feilai Feng Scenic Area) includes a monastery, several temple halls, and the Feilai grottoes.

The monastery was founded in the 4th century, and the main temple is believed to have been rebuilt at least 16 times.  The current structures in the complex are recent reconstructions and restorations of late-Qing Dynasty (19th-century) buildings.

After purchasing tickets and entering the complex, visitors first come to the Feilai grottoes.  Many sculptures have been carved directly into the limestone rocks that make up the grottoes.  These figures are in quite high-relief and include various Buddha and Bodhisattva  characters.  My favorite was the famous laughing Buddha with attendants, which reminded me of a large bronze Buddha statue that I used to rub for good luck as a kid at a Chinese restaurant in my hometown.

Large screen with Guanyin statue in Grand Hall of the Great Sage.

After passing through the grottoes, stairs advance up several tiers and lead to the Lingyin Temple’s 5 halls: the Hall of the Heavenly Kings, Grand Hall of the Great Sage, Hall of the Medicine Buddha, Huayan Hall, and Hall of the 500 Arhats.  The architecture of the halls and the sculptures housed within were some of the most interesting and unique I’ve seen in China.

China National Tea Museum

Next, we headed further outside of town to the China National Tea Museum.  Hangzhou is famous for Longjing (Dragon Well) tea, a type of green tea cultivated in the area.

Getting off the bus near the museum, we began searching for a place to get a bit of lunch and were immediately bombarded by a very friendly Chinese woman who insisted that we come eat at her “restaurant.”  Normally, I am put off by or wary of such attention, but her effusiveness won us over.  Soon we were sitting at a table on the upstairs balcony of her house sipping Longjing tea and looking over the small town and tea plantations as we awaited our meal.

After lunch, we headed to the museum.  The museum was opened in 1991, and its exhibition halls tell about the history, making, and ceremony of tea.  However, the highlight of our visit was walking among the tea leaves around the tea plantations that surround the museum.

Leifeng Pagoda

Returning to town after our adventure in the Hangzhou “suburbs,” we made a beeline for the Leifeng Pagoda where we wanted to watch the sunset over the West Lake from one of the observation decks.

With air conditioning, escalators, and a giant glass elevator, this is perhaps China’s most “advanced” pagoda.  It was originally built in the late 10th century, but was entirely reconstructed in 2002.  Visitors can see the original foundation of the pagoda which has been excavated and preserved inside on the lower level.

Going up the pagoda provides gorgeous views of Hangzhou during the day or at night, and the pagoda itself is rather beautiful lit up after sunset.

West Lake

Finally, the West Lake is perhaps Hangzhou’s most famous sight, and that evening we experienced it though the Impression West Lake Show.

After a dinner of traditional Hangzhou fare, including beggar’s chicken and West Lake vinegar fish, we headed to the lakefront to take our seats.  Impression is a theatrical and musical performance that takes place on the West Lake, and the music and actors’ movements recount local Hangzhou legends about the Lake.  The show includes many special effects involving water and lights and was put together by the team that organized the opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

The next day we returned to the lake to walk around the trails and relax on the many benches overlooking the water.  We even took a small boat out to enjoy the view from the lake itself.

All too soon, it was time to catch our train back to Shanghai.  Though my time in Hangzhou was brief, it remains one of the favorite places I’ve visited in China.  It is a quick ride from Shanghai and the perfect respite from the urban sprawl and busy streets of China’s larger cities.

Have you ever been to Hangzhou?  What was your favorite part?

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View of Rome and the Temple of Venus and Roma from atop the Colosseum.

Europe was the continent on which I feel in love with travel six years ago.  It was where I took my first “real” trip abroad (save Mexico which is hard to count given its proximity to my native Texas), where I first experienced living abroad, and where I traveled solo for the first time.

Trevi Fountain (one of the few shots without any heads).

But, between moving to Shanghai after college, returning to the States for grad school, and frequently visiting WWW in China, Europe hadn’t been high on the priority list since those initial visits.  However, when WWW asked me where I’d most like to go for his R&R, Italy was my first second (Greece will have to wait) choice!

Florence Cathedral (Duomo) at sunset.

This was the first time in Italy for both of us, so we decided to spend our 8 days in the country’s heavy-hitters, Rome and Florence.  We booked the trip to coincide with my spring break and (not so intentionally) the papal conclave.

I am thrilled to start the coverage of our adventures in Italy this week and can’t wait to share all of the memories made touring museums, visiting cathedrals, and eating copious amounts of pasta and pizza.  Italy is a truly magical place and perhaps our favorite country we’ve visited as a couple to date.

For now, here is a peek at some of my favorite photos of the trip.

Exterior of Roman building near the Pantheon.

Eating one of the many cups of gelato on this trip.

Pitti Palace and gardens in Florence.

WWW and I at the Piazzale Michelangelo.

Have you been to Italy?  Did it win your heart the way it did ours?

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# nights stayed: 9 (4 in Phnom Penh and 5 in Siem Reap)

# flights: 4 including connections

# of meals including fish amok: almost all

Fish amok made in Petit Villa cooking class.

# markets visited: 6

# of bags of cheese straws fed to Lucky the elephant: 5+

# of gibbons petted: 2

One of the gibbons at Phnom Tamao.

# of Femme Fatale cocktails consumed: 1

# cases of salmonella poisoning: 1 (blerg!)

# temples visited: 9

Banteay Srei Temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

# different kinds of transportation taken: 7 (plane, taxi, sedan, jeep, tuk tuk, bus, boat)

# photos taken: 1,798 (mostly of temples)

Favorite things: Seeing Angkor Wat on Christmas Day was certainly a highlight for me!  WWW enjoyed exploring the streets of Phnom Penh and the supermarkets in Siem Reap which gave nice insights into contemporary life in Cambodia.  Finally, playing with gibbons and Lucky the elephant at Phnom Tamao Zoo was another favorite part of the trip.

Least favorite things: Neither of us really fell in love with Cambodian food.  We found fish amok (the national dish) to be rather bland, and most of our favorite meals were of the non-Khmer variety.  Getting salmonella poisoning that hit full force on the return journey was definitely the worst part of the trip.  After throwing up in front of everyone at the Phnom Penh airport for the third or fourth time, I was petrified security wouldn’t allow me on the flight and I’d be quarantined.  Finally, our hotel in Phnom Penh turned out to be a big disappointment, but I guess that’s what we get for booking rather last minute during peak season.

Most surprising: Though we knew we wanted to learn more about Cambodia’s past and the Khmer Rouge before visiting the country, we were impressed with the quality of the museums and information provided on the topic.  While visiting S-21 and the Killing Fields was an emotionally trying experience, these were perhaps the most rewarding stops on our itinerary.  Also, while not entirely unexpected, Cambodia is the least developed country in terms of infrastructure either WWW or I have visited.  This was particularly apparent on our perilous six-hour journeys between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap via bus.  However, the number of foreign and Cambodian NGOs and caused-based organizations we found and were able to patronize was a happy and heartwarming surprise.

Have you ever been to Cambodia?  What were some of the things that you liked, disliked, or found surprising?  Share in the comments!

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We arrived in China’s Shangri-La after a four-hour bus ride from the nearby tourist hell-hole of Lijiang.  Shangri-La was the final stop on our journey through Yunnan Province, and we spent a couple days exploring the town and its surrounds while battling the altitude sickness that accompanies being 3,200 meters (or over 10,000 feet) above sea level.

Outside Songzanlin Monastery in Shangri-La.

The town of Shangri-La (originally Zhongdian) was renamed in 2001 to reference the fictional paradise in James Hilton’s novel The Lost Horizon, a move the local government hoped would drive more tourists to the city.  Though the town is surrounded by gorgeous countryside and has a rich Tibetan heritage, it experiences nowhere near the level of tourism we saw in nearby Dali and Lijiang.

Tibetan prayer flags strung along the Old Town Temple perimeter.

Shangri-La is one of the few places outside of Tibet to interact with China’s Tibetan ethnic minority, and many travelers pass through the area on their overland journeys there.  However, this would be the closest we would get the the “Land of Snows” before continuing our journey south to Guangzhou and Hong Kong.

When the altitude sickness inevitably hit, we were grateful to be staying at the cozy Kevin’s Trekker Inn.  For a large chunk of our two days in Shangri-La we holed up here for long naps, hot coffee by the fireplace, and pleasant chats with the staff.

When we finally dragged ourselves away from our warm beds at the hostel into the crisp and brisk (the average high in July is only 67 degrees) mountain air, we were ready to soak in all Shangri-La had to offer.

Songzanlin Monastery

Songzanlin Monastery from the road.

The Songzanlin monastery is a massive complex a few kilometers north of town and is probably the most visited sight by tourists to Shangri-La.  The complex includes a number of separate temples decorated with elaborate wall paintings, thangka hangings, and sculpture.  Several chorten or Tibetan stupas can also be seen.

In 2005, an extensive renovation of the complex began, underlining its value as a draw for tourists.

Songzanlin is a rather expensive sight to visit by Chinese standards, especially for Yunnan, with foreign tickets costing 85 RMB and 55 RMB (reduced) respectively.  The cheapest way to reach the monastery is to take the Number 3 city bus to the final stop for 1 RMB; however, taxis will also take you for quite a few times that amount.

Old Town

Central square with stalls in Shangri-La’s Old Town.

The Old Town in Shangri-La is similar to those in Dali and Lijiang, with streets lined with tourist shops, hostels, and restaurants.

Car parked in one of the Old Town squares next to a stupa.

However, the area hasn’t completely given over to the kitschy side of things, and some charming alleys can be found tucked away from the main areas.

One of the highlights of the Old Town is a Tibetan Buddhist temple with a giant golden prayer wheel.  This complex can be seen from almost anywhere in town due to its position at the top of a large hill.

Yak cheese with crackers and sweet red wine.

Visitors to Shangri-La should also stop by the Shangri-La Cheese Shop in Old Town to try some of the area’s famous yak cheese and sweet red wine.  Yak meat burgers and Yunnan coffee are also a must and can be found at many of the restaurants and cafes in Old Town.

Behind the hill of the Old Town Temple is the Shangri-La Handicraft Center which is locally run by a non-profit called the Yunnan Mountain Heritage Foundation.  The Center includes a shop which sells handicrafts (including baskets, textiles, and silver jewelry) made by the local Khampa Tibetan, Naxi, Mosuo, Lisu, and Yi ethnic minorities.  Sales of these fair trade items provide a solid income for the artisans, and profits also benefit local projects to preserve Shangri-La’s cultural heritage and promote sustainable eco-tourism.

Though I would not go so far as to call Shangri-La a paradise…and certainly not a lost one, there was something special about the town.  Its sometimes startlingly blue skies and striking scenery gave the entire place a majestic feel, and the colorful costumes of the diverse ethnic minorities added to its “picturesque” nature.  Furthermore, the golden prayer wheels, tall stupas, and ubiquitous prayer flags served as a constant reminder of the town’s strong ties to the esoteric and often romanticized Tibetan Buddhist tradition.

Have you ever been to Shangri-La?  Do you think it stands up to Hilton’s lost paradise?

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Naps and sipping cocktails by the hotel pool were certainly on the itinerary, but we managed to find plenty of other activities in the town to distract ourselves as well.  So, here’s my list of top non-temple pastimes for a visit to Siem Reap.

1. Learn to make the national dish, fish amok, and other local delicacies at a cooking class.

After three days of visiting temples, we signed up for a cooking class through our B&B, Petit Villa.  First, we headed to the Phsar Samaki Market to pick up some ingredients for the day and get the low-down on some of the most common types of veggies, herbs, and meats used in Khmer dishes.  Then, our guide took us for a tour of the Lucky Supermarket in Lucky Mall.  WWW and I particularly enjoyed looking at all of the import items here and noting how the selection varied from what is available in China.

Next, with our items in hand, we headed back to the B&B to start cooking our three-course meal of papaya salad, fish amok, and banana in coconut milk.  The class was perhaps a bit too directed, and we didn’t get to do much more than chop and stir.  However, chowing down at the end is always our favorite part, and the food all came out wonderfully.

Delicious papaya salad ready for eating.

We also got a demonstration on how to make hibiscus tea with water, simple syrup, lime juice, and several hibiscus blossoms.

2. Attend one of the apsara dance shows, ranging from cheesy to well-executed.

On Christmas evening after our first full day in Siem Reap and morning of temple going, we popped into Temple Club on Pub Street to experience their popular apsara dance show.  We got there early before the show started and immediately headed upstairs to get a good table near the stage and order our obligatory drinks that make the show FREE.

Performer at Temple Club’s apsara dance show.

Apsaras are the heavenly dancers seen in the many relief sculptures on the Angkor temple walls.  And, apsara dance, revitalized by the Cambodian Royal Ballet in recent times, is a type of Khmer classical dance that uses codified gestures to narrate classical and religious stories.

Apsara dance shows abound across Cambodia and vary widely in quality.  While the Temple Club show is rather amateurish and even cheesy at times, it is a low-commitment way to get a taste of an apsara performance.

3. Shop at the many markets, galleries, and boutiques.

Shopping is huge in Siem Reap, and the town boasts several of Cambodia’s most famous markets, including the Night Market and Old Market.  These sell a variety of unique handicrafts and mass-manufactured souvenirs.  You can also find food, drink, and services like traditional and fish foot massages at these markets.

Sculpture in workshop at Artisans d’Angkor, courtesy of TripAdvisor.

Additionally, the streets and alleys around Pub Street have a variety of boutique shops selling antiques, used books, and handmade jewelry.  A little ways from the center of town, Artisans d’Angkor, a series of high-end workshops and store, promotes traditional Khmer arts and crafts and peddles everything from wood carvings and silk paintings to lacquer boxes and woven scarves.  WWW and I spent several hours browsing the baubles in these various stores.

4. Play in the AC of the Angkor Trade Center arcade.

Angkor Trade Center, photo courtesy of angkorshopping.com.

One afternoon WWW said he had a surprise and took me to the Angkor Trade Center next to Old Market along the Siem Reap River.  This three-story “mall” includes a supermarket on the first floor, shops for clothes and electronics on the second, and an arcade (our destination!) on third.  We bought about 10 USD worth of tokens and spent the better part of an hour shooting hoops, playing skee-ball, racing sports cars amongst Cambodian teenagers.

5. Relax with a cheap massage to the soothing tunes of grasshoppers.

Exterior of Lemongrass Garden near Pub Street; photo courtesy of TripAdvisor.

Considering how much cheaper massages are in Southeast Asia, I try to get them as often as possible.  A cool welcome drink, relaxing massage, and the sounds of chirping are particularly welcome after and long and sweaty day trekking around the temples.  So, one afternoon we headed to Lemongrass Garden for a 60-minute Khmer body massage (10 USD).

6. Gorge yourself on Pub Street and at the nearby food stalls.

Sampler of traditional Khmer dishes.

Perhaps our absolute favorite thing to do in Siem Reap was troll the restaurants, pubs, cafes, and street stalls for yummy nibbles.  Some of our favorite meals of the trip were at Abacus, Viroth’s, and The Indian.

We also loved the ubiquitous Blue Pumpkin for its delicious ice cream and free Wi-Fi.

7. Bonus!

Additionally, though we didn’t get to partake in these particular activities, the floating villages around Siem Reap the Landmine Museum are apparently worthwhile day-trips from the town.

Have you been to Siem Reap?  If so, what are your favorite things to do there?  Also, what are your top “down-time” activities while traveling?

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WWW and I have been talking a lot about Hong Kong lately.  He lived there for a summer several years ago and raves about the island.  Also, most all of our flights between China and Southeast Asia connect there, and, though I’ve been to the Hong Kong airport half a dozen times on my way to Malaysia and Thailand, I have only stepped foot outside once…and for less than 8 hours.  Please don’t tell anyone my dirty little secret!

Amazing juxtaposition of the city’s skyscrapers and dense vegetation.

My one and only time strolling around Hong Kong happened as part of a two-week trip through southwest China in 2010 when a friend and I did a whirlwind day tour of the city.  Needless to say, after the first hour I was smitten and cursing the onward train ticket in my purse.

At the top of the observation deck at Victoria Peak.

Since we were staying at a hotel in Guangzhou, we took an early morning train (about 2 hours) from there to Hong Kong’s Hung Hom Station.  There we were met by our guide for the day, Mrs. Fong (yes, Mandopop star Khalil Fong‘s mother for any fans out there), who we’d met through our boss in Shanghai.  Mrs. Fong quickly swept us off for a huge buffet brunch at one of the fancy-pants hotels in the area.  Then, it was time for some accelerated sightseeing.

Victoria Harbor

View of Central from the Star Ferry.

Our first stop of the day was the Victoria Harbor to take a ride from Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) to Central (Hong Kong Island) on the Star Ferry.  The double-decker ferries used today are recreations of boats from the 1920s when Hong Kong was under British rule.  Riding across the harbor, we had an ideal view of both the island and peninsula’s skylines.

Victoria Peak

View of Central, the Harbor, and Kowloon from the Peak.

Next, we hopped on the Peak Tram to travel 552 m up to the observation deck at Victoria Peak.  The viewpoint delivers 360-degree views of Victoria Harbor, the skyscrapers of Central Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, and the lush vegetation of many of Hong Kong’s surrounding islands.

Nan Lian Gardens

After lunch at The Peak, we headed to Nan Lian Gardens.  Located in the middle of the city near the Diamond Hill MTR station, the gardens are an oasis from the busy streets.  Inside the gardens is a large koi pond with pavilions and bridges, as well as many water features and ornamental flora. The Tang Gallery with exhibitions of Chinese art and a souvenir shop are also housed here.

Beside the gardens is the Chi Lin Nunnery which partnered with the local government for Nan Lian’s creation.  The Chi Lin vegetarian restaurant has afternoon tea, and though we were too late on this particular day, we were able to get some delicious deserts to-go for our ride back to Guangzhou that evening.

All too soon, it was time to head back to the train station.  Needless to say, a day in Hong Kong wasn’t nearly enough and I’ve been itching to go back ever since.  Hopefully, WWW and I will be able to take a weekend trip there sometime in the next month…until then I’ll be itching my feet with wanderlust.

Have you ever been to Hong Kong?  What did you think?  Also, what cities are you itching to get back to?

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