Woodworking Forum Topics at LumberJocks.com

Designing projects

Nick Solimine — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 16:00:25 GMT

Does anyone have a recommendation for a computer program that helps in layout and design of Furniture ,etc?

VENEER

FRITZ — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:25:26 GMT

I SELL VENEER FOR YOUR PROJECTS FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME @ GOOFYR81@AOL.COM OR VISIT ME ON EBAY RJFRITZ123

VENEER

FRITZ — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:11:04 GMT

IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR VENEER LOOK NO FUTHER AS I SELL IT,ADD A GREAT TOUCH TO YOUR PROJECT,FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME AT GOOFYR81@AOL.COM
THANKS RON

Old tool Preservation

SteveKorz — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 13:44:14 GMT

I love to tinker around and restore old tools. Since my shop is not temperature controlled year around, sometimes all my hard work tends to draw a little moisture. So, to prevent rust from invading my tools, I’ve used a variety different methods to try and preserve them.

I’ve used paste wax and some spray waxes, spray zinc-based coatings, and boeshield in the past. Each seems to have Pros and Cons as far as rust prevention, wear, reapplication, cost, etc. I’ve used light coats of oil before with little luck for any period. Wax seems to do very well over time (and its cheap!). Boeshield is very nice, but also very expensive for continuous reapplication. The zinc based spray seems to do well over time, but it just doesn’t look very nice.

I was wondering what your favorites are….

Thanks in advance,

—Steve

Question about milling and tools.

poser516 — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 02:10:17 GMT

Hello,
I’m a very very beginner wood wannabe and have a question that is probably pretty basic.

I am going to have 2X6X10 planks of redwood from the lumber yard. I need to make them square and mill them down to 2 inch wide, quarter inch thick (or possibly 1/8th inch) strips.

I have a jointer and will have a table saw by the time the project actually happens. Do I also need a thickness planer? Can I get the wood square using only a jointer and a table saw?

Also, what would the general procedure be for getting the original plank into a bunch of 2 inch strips that are 1/4, or preferably 1/8th of an inch thick and perfect? A step by step would be nice, if possible.

Thanks,

Old Tools (antiques)

Mike — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 00:51:23 GMT

I just picked up a bevel guage today for 10 bucks. Good solid walnut brass ends with angled brass between the bottom 2 parts to stop the blade.

I got a 20 inch wooden plane for 25 bucks the other day.

There is also an antique store across the river in Ky that has a large selection of planes for 40 and under. Most made a few old scottish, and some manufactured. The highest price was 85. cheaper than EBAY.

Just wondering if anyone else has the bug for old tools at the antique stores?

I do go there to look at furniture and check out the joints and vaneering, etc….

I am such a woodworking-nerd.

Anyone else?

Blogs vs. Forums

HokieMojo — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 00:42:41 GMT

I’ve been noticing a lot of users (new users in particular) are starting blogs to ask basic questions. I’m not complaining really. I just think some people aren’t differentiating between the two. Some people put a lot of work into their blogs and its a shame to see their posts get pushed off the front page so quickly. On the flip side, people are asking questions, but as more discussion takes place, they don’t get bumped to the top like they would if they were being asked in the forums.

I’m wondering if anyone thinks it would be a good idea to move the forums up and the blogs down on the front page. Maybe this way, people won’t just post on the first thing they see. For example, Barlow is selling lumber and every time someone inquires or comments on the quality, it gets moves up for new users to see all over again. someone with a question would get the same bump every time another person weighs in.

Again, I’m not really complaining (although it sure does sound like it). I’m just putting this out there so people can see what they are missing by posting in the wrong spots and to see if anyone else thinks it is worth trying to correct for.

Surfacing Wide Boards on a Narrow Jointer

tenontim — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 23:25:56 GMT

Recently, one of my fellow Texans accused us Americans of being whiners. Well, hopefully after you learn this procedure, you will have one less thing to whine about. Namely, “I can’t surface wide boards because I only have a 6” jointer.”
I didn’t come up with this technique, it’s been handed down from the craftsmen of the past. About 50 years ago, the only place that you would find large jointers, was in the furniture factories. Power tools were expensive and the choice was very limited. The normal jointer found in the home shop was a 6”, bench top jointer.

You can surface a board approximately 11 ¼” wide on a 6” jointer, or up to twice as wide as your jointer, minus about ¼” for overlap. This is done by making two passes over the cutter head. The first pass will surface one half of the board and the next the other. Of course, one of the passes will be against the gain, and it’s best to make this pass first. Feed the board very slowly when going against the grain, especially at the end of the cut.

I didn’t have a 12” board for a demo, so I’ll use one that’s a little over 8”.
This entire procedure is best done with the jointer set for a very light cut. I start out with the jointer set for about 1/16”. Depending on how warped, twisted, bowed, etc. the board is, I start raising the table after each pass in both directions. I will finish with the table almost flush with the outfeed table.

The board I’m using has a little bit of a bow and a little bit of wind.

The procedure for planing a wide board is the same as for one that’s a normal size for your jointer. Place the paddles on the low corners. Do not apply very much pressure on the front paddle, since there is not going to be any cutting done on this pass. (For this board).

As you get the board trued up, you will notice that you have a ridge line where the cuts have overlapped. If you’re not taking too deep a cut on each pass, this will not effect the over all flatness of the board.

You can take a card scraper and remove the small amount of unevenness.

And as you can see, the board is flat in all directions and ready to be run through the planer to true up the other side. This board will finish out at about 7/8” thick after planing both sides.

So, get yourself a stack of practice boards and go try this out. It won’t take long for you to get the hang of it. And then you’ll have one less thing to whine about. Wouldn’t do any good anyway. Your wife is not going to let you spend $2000 on that 12” jointer, so make the best of what you have.

Converting Millimeters to Fractions

CharlieM1958 — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 18:44:13 GMT

Okay, so it’s a slow day at work, but this has been a pet peeve of mine. I often run across a measurement given in millimeters, and wish I had a handy reference to convert that number into fractional inches.

There are a lot of charts and calculators online that will give you decimal equivalents, but nothing I could find that will quickly tell me that 17mm equals pretty close to 11/16ths. So I used my Excel skills and some free time to come up with my own. You can get it here:

http://www.loyno.edu/~cbmarsh/mmtofraction.htm

I have included columns to get you to the nearest 16th, 32nd, or 64th, depending on how precise you care to get. The PDF version will be easiiest for most of you, but I’ve included a link to the Excel file as well, in case you want to monkey around and modify it to best suit your own needs.

Blog Page Feature Requests.

gizmodyne — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 14:01:21 GMT

Hi Martin,

Another feature request when you have time.

Can you add 1) a tag cloud for each jock’s blog page and 2) a calendar with the dates of the blog entries
This would give the features of most major blog platforms and in my opinion make the pages easier to navigate.

Thanks,

John